Week 1

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trimmed the necrotic, topped up and watered with the molasses mix
They don't look half bad, just stunted, but the stems are solid, I can bat them around after a mist
I also changed to 18/6 since the transplant
 

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I may have these two strains mixed up but my guess is the NL5 is doing just swell but look at the 2 deformed BC big bud monstrosities!
 

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The 90 allows for the base to sit flat at the bottom of the bucket. You want it flat.

check

VENT: I actually spent about an hour looking in 4 stores for PVC pipe and fittings. NOTHING.
And my Amurican chum has the parts laying around. We got nuthin' up here and if you do find it, it's twice as expensive.
 
Amazon.ca is not Amazon
I see tips here and search Amazon.ca with the same description and get a book about it.
I can order from Amazon.com but never free shipping and brokerage.
It's not just amazon, the whole damn country is going to the dogs, I couldn't source PVC pipe and or fittings today for pete's sake.
Sorry, I'm still quite stunned by that. Maybe I'll try again tomorrow straight.
 
Early on i ran a piece of hose from the air pump down imto the bucket fastened to a hunk of steel to keep it on the bottom and pointed away from the side, worked fine.

I run two of these tea machines, the big bopper can be seen elsewhere and its for when i need 40 gal!

The little booper is a large air pump plumbed via hose down to a straight piece of 1/2 pvc pipe i bent to a 90 with a heat gun, it works fine too.

Id not make as much outa the delivery method as its more about having enough air. Google compost tea brewer (images) and you'll go to sleep looking at the variety thats out there.

Mr. Ducks version is certianly popular and effective but so are at least a dozen other styles. Simple is good.
 
People have their own opinions, some vary.
I use the mol in microbe tea also but then once you brew up a bunch of microbes what do you do with them? You dump um on the dirt where they go to work. When you water with mol/ water you dump it on the dirt too, nen the microbes utilize it. Theres more than one type of tea, i use microbe tea the most but my ingredients are such that if theres not one microbe in there the plants still benifit from a nutrient tea!
Go ahead a roll that bottle over and read the ingredients,, your plants love all that stuff.

At some point youll develop an opinion of your own, once you have some good experience to go off of.

First thing I did when i came here was start a thread called Myths or something like that. I was researching in Internet Cafes. It was difficult separating the the gems from the rubble.
've never been steered wrong here. I was more prying out more info than questioning your's.
pcduck doesn't ramble on like we do :), it's like pulling teeth :) :)
I think that was momentary hydro rez panic haha, I do remember concluding not a good idea to add it to a rez though. I'm okay with the molasses regimen but I'm tempted to add cal/mag if I see yellow again.

I'm still confused about organic nutrition especially now that the tea is once every 3-4 weeks,
I thought I'd be watering daily with it, not sure why I thought that.
so it's RO and some grow nutes and I measure runoff for pH....
but I can't water them to runoff, they're too small in those huge pots
another fine mess I've got myself into, jezus
 
QUOTE="Alasgun, post: 1040836, member: 56999"]Early on i ran a piece of hose from the air pump down imto the bucket fastened to a hunk of steel to keep it on the bottom and pointed away from the side, worked fine.

>>> almost a chat here, Alasgun. I just read metal in a bucket ain't good, leeching

I run two of these tea machines, the big bopper can be seen elsewhere and its for when i need 40 gal!

The little booper is a large air pump plumbed via hose down to a straight piece of 1/2 pvc pipe i bent to a 90 with a heat gun, it works fine too.

Id not make as much outa the delivery method as its more about having enough air. Google compost tea brewer (images) and you'll go to sleep looking at the variety thats out there.

Mr. Ducks version is certianly popular and effective but so are at least a dozen other styles. Simple is good.

>>> That's a venturi he's got going there.
 
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Being a machinist and having a machine shop in my garage, stainless steel is not hard to come by, i didnt mention that part.

Im in 15 gallon pots this time and am finding i only water 1 time a week! I dont own a ph meter and have a ppm meter around here somewhere but never use it.

If your a reader, study up on the part the microbes play and itll make more sense to you. Thay live in a symbiotic relationship with the roots. Rootes put off exudates (sp) that the bugs eat and in turn the bug poos out stuff the plant likes. During the process ph is stabilised. Therefore no need for a meter!! This is grossly over simplified mainly because i cant remember or spell the big words!

The other part of the equation is perception and interpertation. Ive never read anything PCDuck has written that struck me as odd or full of huey. Non of us know each other, very well and this adds a bit of complication also. I honestly believe everyone whos joined in on this wants to see you succeed!

I cant speak for everyone but im having a lot of fun with this too!
 
Speaking about rambling on, several pages ago you mentioned not looking for un sulphered mol. I meant to throw in but probably got to rambling in a different direction.
Sulpher is a great insecticide, your microbes are microscopic imsects, see the connection?

Now that your sphincter has relaxed a bit lets start looking at next week or a month from now.
Are those the final pots or will you move them again? They look like at least 5s and if so will be fine.
When you move from mol water into more complex food what will you use? Early on i used general organic grow and bloom as a stand alone nute and got great results. Some have the red arse at them for selling out to bayer (monsanto) but in the interest of completing a fine grow, it would be ok just this once.
Talk about the light, probably gonna want more than a t5 in a couple weeks.
 
Unless you have heat problems run you lights 24/7, reduces stretch.
 
Unless you have heat problems run you lights 24/7, reduces stretch.

Agreed, I'm normally 24/7. I actually want a little stretch right now. that's why i had the lights so high.
 
QUOTE="Alasgun, post: 1040840, member: 56999"]Being a machinist and having a machine shop in my garage, stainless steel is not hard to come by, i didnt mention that part.

Im in 15 gallon pots this time and am finding i only water 1 time a week! I dont own a ph meter and have a ppm meter around here somewhere but never use it.

If your a reader, study up on the part the microbes play and itll make more sense to you. Thay live in a symbiotic relationship with the roots. Rootes put off exudates (sp) that the bugs eat and in turn the bug poos out stuff the plant likes. During the process ph is stabilised. Therefore no need for a meter!! This is grossly over simplified mainly because i cant remember or spell the big words!

===> I didn't know about the pH or ppm for that matter... interesting... I've been trying to use the myco for years, seems to me I get that right and things will fall in to place. I read all manner of folks that insisted it was okay to use in hydro. I'm not so sure now, probably should have heeded duck's warning but I was looking for quick fixes.

The other part of the equation is perception and interpertation. Ive never read anything PCDuck has written that struck me as odd or full of huey. Non of us know each other, very well and this adds a bit of complication also. I honestly believe everyone whos joined in on this wants to see you succeed!

===> I read probably too much and get overwhelmed, the devil is in the details.

I cant speak for everyone but im having a lot of fun with this too!

===> as long as you're having fun. As much as I value this place, I know I get tiresome and wear most of them out with my issues but there's always some keener who jumps in and gets the ball rolling

You and duck are saving my crop... gotta be some satisfaction in that too
Thanks!
 
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QUOTE="Alasgun, post: 1040841, member: 56999"]Speaking about rambling on, several pages ago you mentioned not looking for un sulphered mol. I meant to throw in but probably got to rambling in a different direction.
Sulpher is a great insecticide, your microbes are microscopic imsects, see the connection?

===> sunuvabitch! why oh why, after all my reading, did I not stumble across that little gem.
Insecticide!!??! for the love of pete, do the Liberals know, they'll ban molasses now!
Dammit, I looked for unsulfered but couldn't find it so i just bought what was there.
((Damn idiots, why the hell is there a separate section for organic food in a grocery store???, how the hell would i know you had it?))


Now that your sphincter has relaxed a bit

===> it's worse

lets start looking at next week or a month from now.

===> I do not know what to feed the new ones when the cotyledons change, mol water?

Are those the final pots or will you move them again? They look like at least 5s and if so will be fine.

===> I thought they were 3 (I must STOP doing this, I'll go and check)
I tore the labels off haha... 22gal bag filled 8 x 3... 3 GAL pots
I doubt they'll outgrow it, I'm LEDs

When you move from mol water into more complex food what will you use?

===> I have synthetics left, 3part flora, koolbloom, cal/mag
I'm confused about the TEAS though but I found the Organic thread.

Early on i used general organic grow and bloom as a stand alone nute and got great results. Some have the red arse at them for selling out to bayer (monsanto) but in the interest of completing a fine grow, it would be ok just this once.

Talk about the light, probably gonna want more than a t5 in a couple weeks.

===> I'm ready. I wanted to build one but
 

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Ive never used 3s so i cant say. 7s were my smallest. they'll be fine and this is one of them things you'll form an opinion on and possibly change next time, or not.
Personally i go with mol/ water for 2 to 3 weeks before including any bottled nutes. I say including because the mol is part of the nutes and stays in the mix thru flowering.
Flora 3 part has a good reputation but its a lomg way from organic. Use it an then go thru all that flushing crap at the end which a lot of folks have no objection to. Back up to the part, i grow for a sick wife; so it completely organic around here.

Tea can be as simple or complicated as you make it. On the simple end you can stuff a slice of Alfafa hay in a bucket full of water and let it set for a week, or till the horse piss smell runs you out and get great results. If you try this dilute it some or you'll get a nute burn, alfafa's pretty strong stuff.

On the other end you'll come across some of the most complicated procedures you can imagine, all of which i choose to ignore.

A couple times now you've mentioned confusing info on other sites or made comments about missing something you read thru, dude your just as normal as the rest of them! My observation is that the complication usually comes when folks parrot something the heard and then cant elaborate cause they never really proved it out in a grow.
I found an over 10 page nute comparrison once, great reading, then i found the same article 2 more times written word for word cept it now had different authors and was presented on different sites. Go figure, someone just looking for some glory.

I openly admit to not being the sharpest tool in the shed and listen quietly when folks talk about areas i have no experience in. good example is the 24/7 light thing, you and Pcduck mentioned earlier. Ive never gone there simply cause i wanted the babies to have a nap sometimes, and know how hard no sleep is on me! Told you im not too sharp!!!
 
What a great thread with great help. Just awesome. We are lucky to have Duck, the organic guru and i am very happy to have you alasgun here too. We have been using the tea weekly outdoors. I think this will be our last week to feed. Mojo to you sopappy!
 
Hi Rose, yup, I'm still struggling so I'm back whining again.
I thought I'd pretty much wore everybody out but still some here that'll have at me :)
 
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They are not growing.
maybe lots of root activity going on but I said the same in hydro
my guess is runamock pythium going on down there.

I'm getting fu'd by these big pots. I am only watering a circle around the plant, maybe a cup each, mol water. I have yet to see any runoff, but I'm fearing it'll never dry out if I soak it, they sure won't drink it all. BUT I'm going to hit each with a litre (quart) of weak cal/mag and then foliar spray some mol water

UPDATE:
that top picture is the most recent, same old, same old, the walking dead again
run off was 6.3 1100ppm light was on top of them, 7/24 again
This must be the 4th grow in a row that has done this, what an effing loser, 100% germ to watch them slowly die. I'm really starting to hate this **** now.
 
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On the bright side... I am thrilled with my germ set-up, something works!
but I always get this far, really, 90-100 % germ now but they go WALKING DEAD on me, see other crop in the bags.

I want to start nuting these, they are going in to dirt (time release) soon
((I'm thinking I should pick an intermediate size before those 3 gal re the waterin'))

I have some synthetics left... use it?
mol water?
weak cal/mag foliar? or should I put that away and use epsom salts?

UPDATE: newest shot at the top...
and here's what these pos are doing, looks like a molybdenum deficiency of all things, I mean really? what the *********** next?
 
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Using large pots makes it harder when just starting.

Water the pot till water run off. The roots will seek out the best area for their needs.

If growing organic, do not use synthetics. If not growing organically, your soil should have enough nutes for a month or more before adding ferts.

I would not add anything for awhile, unless using R/O. Then I would add organic cal/mg to the water
 

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