Mono's 1st grow

[MoNoXiDe]

Take a look at the lumens thread. My other issue going on lol

 

[sunakard2000]

so few things, yes unfortunally there is a chance at a male or hermie from FEM seeds, FEM seeds arnt natural so theres always a chance, granted small but still a chance,
topic of lights i posted in the lumen thread,
as for cups/pots i personaly dont leave them in the cups any longer then 10-14 days, i find by that time they are itchin to stretch out, and leaving them in longer results in root binding and that means it takes a little longer for the roots to stretch out into their new homes, i dont like anything more then a handful of roots around the edge of the cups, any more and it could cause issues, i know alot of people grow for upto a month in a cup but whats the point, watering 2x a day is stupid if yah ask me, fewer transplants is better, i go from cups to 2.25gal pots and finally up to 7gal smart pots but when possible i prefer to go from cups to 7gal smart pots, but seeing as i have a large rotation of vegging plants going on now its hard to keep more then 2 7gal in there with all the other plants, but for the size pots you have im sure 3 weeks to a month in those small pots wouldnt hurt, especially if space is an issue, no worries just try not to do anymore then 2 transplants cups to veg pot, then veg pot to flower pot. or what iv been doing recently sprout in rapid rooters and once they pop out and are about an inch tall i pop the RR in the veg pots, skip the cups all together. sorry for so many ideas lol just a few that came to mind.

other then that yeah i agree with rose... lookin good so far especially for a first grow, the first was defently the hardest, its hard to keep from over loving them lol, gotta let them do what they do.

 

[MoNoXiDe]

thanks for the info. I'm thinking maybe I could just get a 2 ft 2 bulb t5 and only put clones under it. Keep the 4 ft 6 bulb to veg under and keep the 2 moms alive. That would save me some money. It will shrink up my veg area to 2x4 but I think that will be enough. I would only have 2-3 half gallon and 2 5-7 gallon in that area

I will probably do rapid rooters, to a half gallon for 3-4 weeks, straight to the 5-7 gallon finish the veg and then move it to the flower tent.

 

[MoNoXiDe]

i have to get to building. The drywall and door should be in by this weekend. I have to build a veg area once that's done. Does the veg area have to be closed in? Is it ok if branches are touching the walls?

 

[Rosebud]

Would you like to live your life smashed up against a wall...that is a no...

 

[sunakard2000]

the plants need breathing room, ooh and if you shortened up your space from a 2x6 to even just a 2x5 your current light would be enough to keep you at the min lum count, actually right at 3000 per square foot. that idea about the 2ft 2bulb t5 is a good one, how ever if possible i would make the veg space no smaller then 2x4.5 i know its only a half foot but you would be absoutly suprised at how much space that extra half foot gives, made all the difference when i furred out my closet another 6-7 inches. that should help yah be able to space the plants out without too much bunching and it should help keep them from being smashed against a wall.

 

[MoNoXiDe]

i took my terra pots back and just put in an order for smart pots. they are cheaper then my terra pots too, so I saved money.

 

[7thG]

I have been wanting to try smart pots. The guy at my Hydro store uses them. He said if you use smart pots and then put a layer of perlite on top of your soil it helps keep the bugs out.

 

[sunakard2000]

i havnt heard of using perlite for that, its too soft, the reason for using diatamatious earth or sand is because the soil dweling insects are relatively soft and the DE/sand particals are very jagged thus slicing the crap outta the bugs as they try to either come up or go down through the DE/sand. perlite is far too chunky and not sharp, if it was me go with the smart pots, ignore that perlite idea the hydro guy gave you, ignore DE or sand and pay the money to get some Azamax, if/when you encounter a pest problem do a soil drench and foliar treatment, otherwise wait until your moving plants from veg to flower, give them a treatment then and it will help prevent pest problems through flower, its more of a preventative measure just to be safe.
honestly with or without smart pots you can still have pest problems, the best way to cure this is to simply have some azamax on hand to use as a preventive measure when you move from veg to flower or for when a problem does arise. nip it quick and you wont have any prolonged problems. when i got thripes they were just as bad on the plants in reg plastic pots as the plants in smart pots, and finaly breaking down and paying the little extra for azamax only then did i finally win the war.
reguardless of pot type or even medium or grow method (organic, hydro, soil-less) you can still get a pest problem, indoors or outdoors doesnt matter.
anywho back to the smart pots, i love em, they are great, really helps everything breath and the root in the smart pot compaired to a plastic pot are pretty rad, the entire bottom of the smart pot was covered in a thick webbing of roots and went up the sides about halfway, natural air pruning helps prevent root binding, instead of hitting a wall and growing elsewhere they try to get out and get pruned by the air, which tells the root to stop growing that direction and causes it to reall web out more in all directions, so the smart pots help keep roots from binding and harming the plant since they naturaly air prune them selves as they attempt to poke out of the pot, over all they promote a healthier root zone since roots dont bind they get pruned and web out more. i still use plastic pots for vegging since its easier to pull a plant out of a plastic pot then a fabric pot since the roots dont grow through the plastic and "grab on for dear life" like they do in smart pots, its a pain to transplant out of a smart pot. but for flowering i love them.

 

[7thG]

i havnt heard of using perlite for that, its too soft, the reason for using diatamatious earth or sand is because the soil dweling insects are relatively soft and the DE/sand particals are very jagged thus slicing the crap outta the bugs as they try to either come up or go down through the DE/sand. perlite is far too chunky and not sharp, if it was me go with the smart pots, ignore that perlite idea the hydro guy gave you, ignore DE or sand and pay the money to get some Azamax, if/when you encounter a pest problem do a soil drench and foliar treatment, otherwise wait until your moving plants from veg to flower, give them a treatment then and it will help prevent pest problems through flower, its more of a preventative measure just to be safe.
honestly with or without smart pots you can still have pest problems, the best way to cure this is to simply have some azamax on hand to use as a preventive measure when you move from veg to flower or for when a problem does arise. nip it quick and you wont have any prolonged problems. when i got thripes they were just as bad on the plants in reg plastic pots as the plants in smart pots, and finaly breaking down and paying the little extra for azamax only then did i finally win the war.
reguardless of pot type or even medium or grow method (organic, hydro, soil-less) you can still get a pest problem, indoors or outdoors doesnt matter.
anywho back to the smart pots, i love em, they are great, really helps everything breath and the root in the smart pot compaired to a plastic pot are pretty rad, the entire bottom of the smart pot was covered in a thick webbing of roots and went up the sides about halfway, natural air pruning helps prevent root binding, instead of hitting a wall and growing elsewhere they try to get out and get pruned by the air, which tells the root to stop growing that direction and causes it to reall web out more in all directions, so the smart pots help keep roots from binding and harming the plant since they naturaly air prune them selves as they attempt to poke out of the pot, over all they promote a healthier root zone since roots dont bind they get pruned and web out more. i still use plastic pots for vegging since its easier to pull a plant out of a plastic pot then a fabric pot since the roots dont grow through the plastic and "grab on for dear life" like they do in smart pots, its a pain to transplant out of a smart pot. but for flowering i love them.

Oh well I'm not sure how effective that method would be I was just passing on the info since he is getting smart pots. I keep hearing about this Diatomaceous earth I think I'm going to check it out I've never used it and I'm not really familiar with it.

 

[sunakard2000]

well yah put about an inch thick layer of DE on the top of the soil, its sharp jagged particals slice the bugs up, you also have to bottom feed for a few weeks so you dont wash the DE into the soil making it useless, it can be dangerious to work with too, need gloves and a dust mask if yah ask me, honestly the easiest way i found is azamax, purely in the way it works, instead of simply slicing the bugs up as they move through the DE the azamax actually interrupts their natural life cycle, interrupting things like their egg laying capability, molting capability, and interrupts them from feeding. basically it makes larva unable to grow into adults so they die, adults cant lay eggs so they cant keep the life cycle going, pretty much knocks out all stages in their life cycle in some way. one treatment and done none survive. i prefer this since its proven to work, always works on normal pest problems and may need an additional treatment on massive infestations but at that point id scrap the crop. also i prefer this because id rather top feed cuz its easier for me since i dont have a basin to sit them in that i can fill with water. thats just me though.

 

[MoNoXiDe]

I gave the first nutes to the plants yesterday. ph 6.5 ppm was 249. A little high for the 1st go, I'll keep a good eye on them.

Today I started LST.

 

[MoNoXiDe]

couple pics. I finished the room. I just need heat and air in there. Also, can I vent air from inside the flower tent into the room, to help control heat in the winter? or is it better to just use a heater and vent out the window?

 

[budz4me]

In a sealed room like that I would stick with the latter.

My room has fresh air grilles and such so I just recirculate the air.

Keep in mind you will need an air intake from outdoors or indoors as well.

 

[MoNoXiDe]

In a sealed room like that I would stick with the latter.

My room has fresh air grilles and such so I just recirculate the air.

Keep in mind you will need an air intake from outdoors or indoors as well.

Air intake? Another inline fan to pull air from outside?

 

[7thG]

Hey just curious was that room built specifically for you grow?

 

[MoNoXiDe]

Hey just curious was that room built specifically for you grow?

Yes

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

thanks for the info. I'm thinking maybe I could just get a 2 ft 2 bulb t5 and only put clones under it. Keep the 4 ft 6 bulb to veg under and keep the 2 moms alive. That would save me some money. It will shrink up my veg area to 2x4 but I think that will be enough. I would only have 2-3 half gallon and 2 5-7 gallon in that area

I will probably do rapid rooters, to a half gallon for 3-4 weeks, straight to the 5-7 gallon finish the veg and then move it to the flower tent.

Clones need very little light. CFLs will do for cloning.

I have asked this several times, but never got an answer. If room is precious, why are you even keeping mothers?

 

[MoNoXiDe]

Clones need very little light. CFLs will do for cloning.

I have asked this several times, but never got an answer. If room is precious, why are you even keeping mothers?

Sorry about that, I thought I said somewhere, that I will do away with the mothers and clone like advised.

 

[MoNoXiDe]

Would a simple grill be ok for fresh air intake? I would think I would lose a lot of cool air in the summer time with a grill installed into the wall. Any other route I can take?