greenmobster440
Scrog Connoisseur
I think your on the right track. Just going to take time.
Thanks Greenmobster! I only see two colas like this….so hoping it doesn’t spread.I think your on the right track. Just going to take time.
That's what I thought Hippie. Turn and burn going on.
Would you do a flush? Or just lower the nutrient level (which I did….reservoir was at 1100ppm before I topped it off)If the above doesn't work, try backing off on the nutes just a tad.
Might I offer a suggestion?This won’t be a pretty finish…..I’m just hoping for a productive finish. Leaves looking like a CalMag deficiency on plant #1 and nutrient burn or nutrient deficiency. I shouldn’t have messed with the reduced nutrient plan when I have had such success following the Lukas Formula with CalMag (heads formula). This poor plant (#2) now has a much lower reservoir ppm. It doesn’t seem to be spreading.
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Today they drank/wicked two gallons of liquid even though I topped off with one gallon yesterday. Topped of with one gallon of Heads Formula between the three (6 micro/9 bloom/5 KoolBloom, 3 CalMag) then topped off with RO water. Reservoirs at 850ppm and 6.0 ph. The plants had definitely dried up with the old wicks and the coco is still rehydrating.
Flowers are coming along…
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Might I offer a suggestion?
Put fast acting lime on top of your soil and lightly water it in for a few days
Looks like turn and burn to me. Over feeding.
You've got some great advice in here and I really don't feel the need to add much to the advice side of this. A few questions to ask that should help me understand what is going on... and a suggestion.
I have no information related to your grow method because I haven't seen it before. I was out of the grow game for 10+ years and just came back this past month.
How do you flush with a self feeding system?
Does a flush have any effect with nutrients still in the reservoir?
And
Have you check the pH of your rootzone?
Suggestion:
Back off the nutrient content of the reservoir to 50% of your normal feeds. Others seem so think this is a turn and burn or overfeeding situation. You have an automated system and are probably relying on said system to assist in the everyday. But if that system has a flaw. It will continue to spread in your tent until you solve said flaw. In this case, your nutes may just be too much for the current strain(s) to handle.
Man that’s a lot of detective deduction and workSome great advice….thank you everyone! Before I respond, here’s a quick update on my flush process. It’s more difficult to flush these self feeding reservoirs while built into a scrog, but it’s proving easier to manage than I expected with my liquid transfer pump.
Plant #1 was flushed 2 weeks ago and a phosphorous deficiency (and now CalMag) deficiency appeared post flush. However, her roots don’t have any residual salts left so I believe my current feed will address her issues. I heavied up the CalMag in her reservoir today.
Plant #2 looks like nutrient burn and I’m addressing this now. Today, I flushed the 3 gallon pot with 4 gallons of mild nutrient solution consisting of 3ml CalMag, 5ml KoolBloom per gallon. Ph at 6.1 and ppm at 650. I then measured the runoff from the plant. Runoff from the first 1.3 gallons at 1350ppm. Runoff from the second 1.3 gallons at 1150. Runoff from the last solution at 975. So this lowered the EC at the root zone by flushing out salts. I then vacuumed out the runoff water from the reservoir and filled the reservoir with the original nutrient solution at 1050 ppm and 6.0 ph. I am going to heavily dilute the reservoir with RO water as MtnStew recommended.
Plant #3 has not had a flush at all, but she’s growing much more slowly too. I’m going to see if she can finish a grow in these pots without a flush.
This appears limited to only a few colas on plant #2….lets hope it doesn’t spread with this flush.
To answer the great questions from @MtnStew, there are no instructions about flushing these self-wicking systems. I experienced and see issues online where people run into nutrient burn in flower. Historically I found myself experiencing nutrient burn by week 10 when I grew in 5 gallon fiber pots. I wonder if the buildup is worse (or earlier) in my smaller 3 gallon pots here? Regardless, I firmly believe that these self wicking systems (in coco) benefit from a flush at the flip and then probably one more time mid-flower. It’s not like high frequency fertigation where I’m rinsing out the salts with each feeding. I have not checked the ph at my root zone…..I need to look that up because I don’t know how to do it.
Thanks again! Hopefully it’s smooth sailing for the next 6 weeks.
Haha….if I had lime, I’d add that too KGB. I’m throwing everything at it.Man that’s a lot of detective deduction and work
You put nutrients in your resovior? May be a stupid question if so sorryHaha….if I had lime, I’d add that too KGB. I’m throwing everything at it.
I suspect that the fact my coco dried out could have hurt the plants too. The only plant where the coco hasn’t dried up due to wick problems is plant #3 and she has been problem-free. Just my suspicion…..one more variable to the puzzle. Plant #1 showed problems when she dried up. Plant #2 is now showing problems after it had dried up. Actually, plant #2 got worse after she re-hydrated when I fixed the wicks.
By the time I figure out how to grow in these wicking pots, I’ll be moving on to DWC.
I just finished diluting all reservoirs down to 775ppm and 5.9ph.
Fingers crossed this solves the issue….it should.
Great to have you on our forum here MtnStew! Welcome back from a 10 year hiatus!You've got some great advice in here and I really don't feel the need to add much to the advice side of this. A few questions to ask that should help me understand what is going on... and a suggestion.
I have no information related to your grow method because I haven't seen it before. I was out of the grow game for 10+ years and just came back this past month.
How do you flush with a self feeding system?
Does a flush have any effect with nutrients still in the reservoir?
And
Have you check the pH of your rootzone?
Suggestion:
Back off the nutrient content of the reservoir to 50% of your normal feeds. Others seem so think this is a turn and burn or overfeeding situation. You have an automated system and are probably relying on said system to assist in the everyday. But if that system has a flaw. It will continue to spread in your tent until you solve said flaw. In this case, your nutes may just be too much for the current strain(s) to handle.
Not a stupid question at all. Yes…..ideally you shouldn’t top feed at all. The only nutrient I’ve had trouble with are those containing iron since it clogs the wicks.You put nutrients in your resovior? May be a stupid question if so sorry
I have not checked the ph at my root zone…..I need to look that up because I don’t know how to do it.
Thanks again! Hopefully it’s smooth sailing for the next 6 weeks.
It’s a good time to start again. For me the controllers really take a lot of the guesswork out. Almost everything in my grow I controlView attachment 366956
I have one similar to this. Mine is straight pH only but this one has more to offer for the price.
Insert probe 4" from the stalk on a 45° angle towards the center of the root zone.
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I try to stick to the 5.8-6.2 range in the root zone for my plants but some plants will require the lower 5.5 or higher 6.5-7.0 for optimal growth. I currently use what most do ProMix HP. But... If I didn't have 6 bags to go through I'd be running my favorite Sunshine Mix #4 with mykos. You may need to check if there's a difference to expect between the coco pH and soil pH.
***Please keep in mind, I have just started growing again and all my knowledge is 10+ years old. I am still researching all these newer technologies and nutrient programs to better understand how everyone has changed the game for the better or worse. Currently still figuring out DLI, PPFD, and any knowledge of LED lighting since I come from the pulse start MH/HPS world of growers.
Everyone else that has given suggestions or advice will be better versed in the current world of cannabis cultivation. Not saying I am wrong. Just that I have less knowledge than the rest with these newer setups.
And I also forgot to mention. Minus the nute control, that plant looks great for a first time scrogger.
I am liking some of these new gadgets. Being able to adjust lights, CO², temperature, and humidity from my phone is a HUGE learning experience. I used to spend 6-10 hours a day in my grow room 10 years ago. Now i just have to make sure everything is watered properly with the correct amount of nutes. Trolmaster takes care of the rest.It’s a good time to start again. For me the controllers really take a lot of the guesswork out. Almost everything in my grow I control
The new Ai controllers seem to be the bomb but I won’t be getting one as I now know how to program the ones I have.
In a year or so they will have a full time monitoring system for hydro that will make us all obsolete. Not only will it monitor it adds nutes as it goes. You just put a straw in each of the containers and it sips
I can check the app and make sure everything is in spec, I can see the app history so I know it stayed in spec and I have a camera that I can see the plants light or dark. In addition I get a full time lapse video every week I can scroll through for issues. I consider the time lapse invaluableI am liking some of these new gadgets. Being able to adjust lights, CO², temperature, and humidity from my phone is a HUGE learning experience. I used to spend 6-10 hours a day in my grow room 10 years ago. Now i just have to make sure everything is watered properly with the correct amount of nutes. Trolmaster takes care of the rest.