Crash Journal

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Looks like a little under $3K for the drywall, insulation and a waterproof vinyl floor. That's if I do the work, of course. I cleared the floor at one end and was going to pick up some insulation after my workout, but managed to tweak my neck dead lifting. Hopefully it will be better tomorrow and I can start hanging the stuff.

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Is real heavy plastic an option? Or do ya want it looking all pro like? 3k damn that's a lot.
I'm mostly concerned with the cost of AC and heat. If I keep the temp between 70 and 80 all year, the insulation will pay for itself. The radiant barrier stuff would have been a lot cheaper, but no where near as good.

I could save almost $900 if I went with a painted floor instead of vinyl planks, but then it wouldn't really be waterproof, and the first time I tripped over a bucket I would be hanging drywall on the ceiling downstairs.

My wife and I split everything, so it's really only $1.5K, except she's making me pay for half the pool! You don't want to know what that thing is costing me : )
 
Based on... I wish I knew now what I didn't know then... Go with mold resistant or a mold proof type drywall product if it can be squeezed into the budget. As soon as my current run is over and it starts to get warm out, I'm pulling all my drywall down and out in the grow room side and re-sheet rocking everything with the blue/green bathroom drywall stuff. Better if you do not have to do it twice. Lucky for me. My room is only 4 by 8 by 8 and a half high.... Don't ask... When I built my shed I didn't ask or know about wall studs VS actual 8 foot long 2 by 4's so ya... The inside of our she-shed / pool cabana / grow closet out building is actually 8 and a half feet high. :angiesfavorite::angiesfavorite:
 
I used a primer and heavy coat of semi gloss white in the small grow room I have now. So far, no mold, though the spider mites and thrips I dealt with caused me to repaint twice. I am planning on sealing the attic floor with epoxy before adding the vinyl planks. Sort of the last line of defense for mold or water leaks.

I know your pain on the 8.5' walls. The walls downstairs in my shop are 9'. All those 11" runners on the bottom drove me nuts.
 
Railroad it? Is that faster than tape and mud?
Railroading it means you stand the sheets up rather than laying 'em down. That way, you don't get any butt joints. Bone joints (the tapered edge) are a lot easier to finish. Butt joints aren't.
 
Railroading it means you stand the sheets up rather than laying 'em down. That way, you don't get any butt joints. Bone joints (the tapered edge) are a lot easier to finish. Butt joints aren't.
I did that in the shop downstairs. I didn't know it had a name, though. I still got butt joints because the walls were 9' and I used 8' panels. Upstairs I have angled trusses and 42" side walls. The ceiling is a little over 6'. It's going to be a piece meal mess no mater how I cut it.
 
10ft Sheetrock is used all the time in commercial projects. Normally House's are 8ft. Anyway if your ceilings are 9ft just use 10ft rock and stand it up(vertical)and you won't have butt joints.
I guess ppl call things different in different places. Laying rock down in a horizontal position Texas is called railroading. Just like hanging vinyl wall covering. If I hang it running horizontal it's call railroading.
The problem with laying rock down is if your walls are longer than the rock,,your still going to have butt joints. Another words if your using 8ft rock and your wall is 9ft long, your going to have a butt joint 1ft from your corner.
Than again it's fking early and maybe I'm misunderstanding what the fk y'all are talking about.😁
 
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You do know that board comes in all kinds of lengths, right? 🤪 Longest I ever handled was 22'. Talk about a ball buster!
But my truck has a 6' bed and the local Home Depot only had 8' and 12' sections. I should have gone somewhere else and had them delivered, but at the time I had no idea how much work and time I was costing myself.
 
Although I've seen them lay it down/railroad it, in houses. I never asked why. Never made since to me.
It's called f the finisher. When you see lay down, it's because the framing is bad. Can't be rippin' bone joints to put out in the field.
When I framed steel studs (always), I'd put an X on the floor. It let the hangers know where to start to achieve minimal cuts. When I got stuck slingin' rock, I made my stuff tight and right. I had finishers buying me lunch for making their job so easy. Most rock dogs figured a half inch gap was good enough.
 
Thinking it might be easier to cut these things in half to carry of the stairs. Took me 15 minutes to get one freaking board to the top, and I mangled the aluminum blinds in the window next to the stairs. I did get that one freaking board attached to the ceiling, though. And all without falling down the stairs. But if I went with 4X4 panels, I probably wouldn't even need the lift.

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