Well that's all guaranteed anyways..so get to work! Lol
Crash Journal
- Thread starter CrashMagnet
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Looks like a little under $3K for the drywall, insulation and a waterproof vinyl floor. That's if I do the work, of course. I cleared the floor at one end and was going to pick up some insulation after my workout, but managed to tweak my neck dead lifting. Hopefully it will be better tomorrow and I can start hanging the stuff.
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As old as Hoper & I am, I'll bet we could have it hung in a day. Finish? Jesus would be coming back sooner than I could have it done.
You gonna railroad it?
You gonna railroad it?
Railroad it? Is that faster than tape and mud?
I have never priced that spray foam insulation, but……,,,,
Yeah, dude, what an awesome grow space.
Another member green with envy, here, lol.
Yeah, dude, what an awesome grow space.
Another member green with envy, here, lol.
Is real heavy plastic an option? Or do ya want it looking all pro like? 3k damn that's a lot.
I'm mostly concerned with the cost of AC and heat. If I keep the temp between 70 and 80 all year, the insulation will pay for itself. The radiant barrier stuff would have been a lot cheaper, but no where near as good.
I could save almost $900 if I went with a painted floor instead of vinyl planks, but then it wouldn't really be waterproof, and the first time I tripped over a bucket I would be hanging drywall on the ceiling downstairs.
My wife and I split everything, so it's really only $1.5K, except she's making me pay for half the pool! You don't want to know what that thing is costing me : )
So the tweaked neck is still a problem. No way I'm carrying drywall to the shop from the driveway, much less lugging it upstairs. Has to be a pinched nerve. The fingers on my left hand have started going numb. Getting old really sucks sometimes!
Based on... I wish I knew now what I didn't know then... Go with mold resistant or a mold proof type drywall product if it can be squeezed into the budget. As soon as my current run is over and it starts to get warm out, I'm pulling all my drywall down and out in the grow room side and re-sheet rocking everything with the blue/green bathroom drywall stuff. Better if you do not have to do it twice. Lucky for me. My room is only 4 by 8 by 8 and a half high.... Don't ask... When I built my shed I didn't ask or know about wall studs VS actual 8 foot long 2 by 4's so ya... The inside of our she-shed / pool cabana / grow closet out building is actually 8 and a half feet high. 
I used a primer and heavy coat of semi gloss white in the small grow room I have now. So far, no mold, though the spider mites and thrips I dealt with caused me to repaint twice. I am planning on sealing the attic floor with epoxy before adding the vinyl planks. Sort of the last line of defense for mold or water leaks.
I know your pain on the 8.5' walls. The walls downstairs in my shop are 9'. All those 11" runners on the bottom drove me nuts.
I know your pain on the 8.5' walls. The walls downstairs in my shop are 9'. All those 11" runners on the bottom drove me nuts.
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Railroading it means you stand the sheets up rather than laying 'em down. That way, you don't get any butt joints. Bone joints (the tapered edge) are a lot easier to finish. Butt joints aren't.
I did that in the shop downstairs. I didn't know it had a name, though. I still got butt joints because the walls were 9' and I used 8' panels. Upstairs I have angled trusses and 42" side walls. The ceiling is a little over 6'. It's going to be a piece meal mess no mater how I cut it.
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You do know that board comes in all kinds of lengths, right? 
Longest I ever handled was 22'. Talk about a ball buster!
Longest I ever handled was 22'. Talk about a ball buster!Similar threads
