Are the leaves showing signs of overdose? What should I do?

[Berat Temel]

All of us learn something new every day.
Hang in there brother.

I read that these plants are very stubborn and opportunistic, I hope they will survive despite me and produce buds that will help me rise a little bit

 

[Berat Temel]

flush it like longtimegrower said then feed with 1/4 or 1/3 of dose
or do like greenmobster440 said and then
View attachment 368650

Currently implemented this strategy and waiting. I hope it goes well..

 

[greenmobster440]

Sounds like ya need to simplify. A new guy teamed up with all these organics is usually not a good ending. It's real easy to over do it when your not sure how much a medium needs.

Cannabis is a touch plant but if you fail to feed her or feed to much it will become a problem. Good news is you'll make it to harvest. Next round I'm sure you'll approach this a different way. Learn from them mistakes. It makes us better growers.

 

[Berat Temel]

Sounds like ya need to simplify. A new guy teamed up with all these organics is usually not a good ending. It's real easy to over do it when your not sure how much a medium needs.

Cannabis is a touch plant but if you fail to feed her or feed to much it will become a problem. Good news is you'll make it to harvest. Next round I'm sure you'll approach this a different way. Learn from them mistakes. It makes us better growers.

Since it was my first growing experience, I tried to provide the lighting, ventilation and growing area entirely with the equipment at home. I turned an unused wardrobe into a tent and installed a lighting system that would provide full spectrum using the materials I had at home. For ventilation, I drilled a hole and fixed the old aspirator fan on the top of the cabinet.

I know it's a bit amateurish, but does it matter for the plant? As long as the desired conditions are met, the plant will do its part

However, I later realized the importance of lighting better, so I ordered a full spectrum grow light. I will make a better start in the second term with the experiences I gained from this first training period.

 

[Triple Sec]

Is this in straight coco coir or whats the mix you are using?

 

[Berat Temel]

Is this in straight coco coir or whats the mix you are using?

I also added coco coir to the mixture I used. There are 3 different soil types in the pot; Coco coir, garden soil and tea peat mixed organic soil. In addition, I aimed to make a fully organic soil mixture with perlite and worm compost. Initially, I rooted the plant with only tea peat and garden soil, and when I changed the pot, I switched to the pot with the mixture I mentioned above. Later, I included water-soluble nutrients such as Epsom salt and calcium nitrate for calcium magnesium needs, along with 20% NPK and other water-soluble micronutrients. I fed it gradually and in order, but in the last feeding I overdosed on the 44% phosphorus fertilizer I took externally.

I'm sure that's what made the plant this way, but every grower says different things, so I'm trying to make sense between what's being said and what's happening.

 

[Berat Temel]

You can figure out how to flush with a bigger pot.

The drainage holes are open and the soil washing process goes smoothly. Do you have any additional advice at this point to prevent too much moisture and water accumulation in the soil? There is about 40% perlite in the soil, and there are air holes on the edges of the pot that are half the width of the ones at the bottom. This is a method I use to keep oxygen flow and soil moisture in order.

 

[greenmobster440]

If the soil is to moist a fan blowing directly on it helps. Be sure it's elevated above the catch tray.

 

[greenmobster440]

I'd always suggest a new guy to use a simple known medium solo like coco or peat. Learning how to feed the plant and maintain pH in these will give ya a better understanding of organics.

 

[Triple Sec]

High phosphorous causes a nitrogen lock out. Thats why you flush coco with things like calcium nitrate and water.

Not a fan of coco myself but some added to a mix is fine. No soil (dirt) whatsoever goes in my pots though. At least not inside. Outside i add my own compost and aged pine bark fines.

All these fancy nutes and sofar my largest pull off one plant was with a gallon jug of Alaska Fish emulsion 5-1-1, Chick N Poo 2-4-3 (8Ca) and Alaska MorBloom 0-10-10 plus cal/mag. Thats enough to last me over a year and numerous plants. A small bag of Growers Recharge to boost the soil microbes occasionally too

 

[Berat Temel]

High phosphorous causes a nitrogen lock out. Thats why you flush coco with things like calcium nitrate and water.

Not a fan of coco myself but some added to a mix is fine. No soil (dirt) whatsoever goes in my pots though. At least not inside. Outside i add my own compost and aged pine bark fines.

All these fancy nutes and sofar my largest pull off one plant was with a gallon jug of Alaska Fish emulsion 5-1-1, Chick N Poo 2-4-3 (8Ca) and Alaska MorBloom 0-10-10 plus cal/mag. Thats enough to last me over a year and numerous plants. A small bag of Growers Recharge to boost the soil microbes occasionally too

Yes, I think it is an obvious fact that too much mixture is unnecessary for the plant. The idea of gaining too much efficiency opens the door to this misconception. I think that organic tea peat and garden soil along with burnt animal manure will be sufficient for a rich living soil.
I think that slow-release compound fertilizers placed at the bottom of the pot along with soil regulators such as perlite and vermiculite will be sufficient. Depending on the growing period of the plant, it may be possible to supplement it with water-soluble micronutrients and complete the entire process from seed to harvest.

In the second season, I aim to keep the soil simpler and have a more productive season with quality lighting. For now, I don't expect much from this plant other than it producing at least some buds and material that will allow me to ascend. I've made a lot of mistakes and I can see the plant is tolerating it so hopefully it ends well.

 

[John Kramer]

20% N.P.K

like i told u early 20% is too much , u should use this fertilizer only 1/4 or 1/3 of dose and then add some N and K from another fertilizer

 

[Berat Temel]

like i told u early 20% is too much , u should use this fertilizer only 1/4 or 1/3 of dose and then add some N and K from another fertilizer

Yes, I have been giving this food this way since you said that. I just didn't write the rate. The amount is as low as possible. I supplement with other nutrients

 

[WonkasTHC]

Sounds like ya need to simplify. A new guy teamed up with all these organics is usually not a good ending.

This this this and more of this.

 

[John Kramer]

High phosphorous causes a nitrogen lock out.

Yes, amen brother

 

[zem]

It is impressive that you got this far with this light setup. Definitely try the new light for flowering and it is crucial to level your canopy as much as possible trim unwanted branches. If you can simplify the feeding by adding the basics at the correct ratio 2-1-2 NPK in veg and use some chelating agents like humic and fulvic acid and maybe some seaweed . Lower the Nitrogen in later flowering to near 0 and raise the PK then lower the P in later flowering keep providing K. Keep the calcium magnesium balance 2:1 throughout the grow. I use calcium extracted from seaweed free of N for flowering you dont need much calcium in later phases and only amino acid N in early flowering which i remove altogether later. It could sound complicated but the basic is to have the elements at the right ratio because by messing up the ratio some elements you lock out other elements and it gets confusing to know what is happening.

 

[Berat Temel]

It is impressive that you got this far with this light setup. Definitely try the new light for flowering and it is crucial to level your canopy as much as possible trim unwanted branches. If you can simplify the feeding by adding the basics at the correct ratio 2-1-2 NPK in veg and use some chelating agents like humic and fulvic acid and maybe some seaweed . Lower the Nitrogen in later flowering to near 0 and raise the PK then lower the P in later flowering keep providing K. Keep the calcium magnesium balance 2:1 throughout the grow. I use calcium extracted from seaweed free of N for flowering you dont need much calcium in later phases and only amino acid N in early flowering which i remove altogether later. It could sound complicated but the basic is to have the elements at the right ratio because by messing up the ratio some elements you lock out other elements and it gets confusing to know what is happening.

Thank you for your effective advice. Since I am not good at feeding, I am trying to make the process as simple as possible. Initially, my aim was to provide all the nutrients needed in one soil from seed to harvest, but when I encountered some nutrient deficiency symptoms in the plant, I realized that this was a more comprehensive issue. Now I am trying to solve the feeding issue without going into technical details as much as possible, but the fact that it seems complicated makes the issue bigger in my eyes. Your advice on this subject was quite explanatory.

 

[Growdude]

I have never read that high phosphorous causes a nitrogen lock out.

Too much Phosphorus levels affect plant growth by suppressing the uptake of: Iron, potassium and Zinc, potentially causing deficiency symptoms of these nutrients to occur def in plants. A Zinc deficiency is most common under excessive phosphorus conditions,
As well as causing other nutrients to have absorption troubles like zinc and copper. Phosphorus fluctuates when concentrated and combined with calcium