will this get too hot? tent set up help
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707NewGenGrower
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so i looked more into the method called some friends that do it
its called "closed loop" method as opposed to "open loop"
the amount of difference you see with high co2 is just amazing, if you ever get a chance thg to try dry ice, or co2 tank or burners i highly recommend it
heres some hard info on it hope it helps
There are two different ways to set up a grow room. Open loop or closed loop, also known as a sealed room. An open loop system has open ventilation, or a fan pushing air into the room and another fan exhausting air out of the room. This is known as ventilation or air exchange. It is exactly what it says; exchanging the old air in the room with fresh, cool CO2 enriched air. In a normal grow room you need to exchange the air at least once every one to two minutes at minimum. Personally, I like to exchange the air about once a minute up to every 30 seconds. Some say thats not necessary but the more air exchange the better in an open loop room. The air exchange is controlling three different elements in the grow room. It is controlling the air temperature, the CO2 levels in the room, and the air quality. As the fresh air is delivered to the room it brings cooler temperatures, flushing out the hot air in the room and replacing it with fresh CO2 enriched air. The fresh air exchange for air quality and CO2 replenishment is one of the most critical factors in a successful grow room.
If your room is completely sealed (closed loop), and the vents bringing in and exhausting air have filters on them, the chances of bugs and diseases getting into the room are greatly lessened. As long as you dont bring in any dirty or infected plants into the room, and dont transport something in from outside on your clothing as you enter the room then you will have a bug and disease free grow room.
Compared to an open loop room, a sealed or closed loop system has no fresh air intake and no main exhaust. The only air running into the room is for cooling the lights, removing the heat from the room. Since the fan is connected by ducting to an outside fresh air source such as a window or adjacent room, the air never comes in contact with the room air, as long as you use proper air cooling lights with a sealed glass lens. The air is simply brought in through the ducting (always pushed, never pulled through the lights) and pushes the hot air out of the lights through further ducting, normally up into the attic as heat rises. A simple charcoal filter, with an inline fan for scrubbing and recalculating the air, is also needed to accomplish this properly. The filter or scrubber in this case is running through the room, constantly cleaning the air free of molds, fungi and diseases
A plant must have the proper CO2 levels in the air to be a healthy plant, with a healthy immune system, which will fight off molds, diseases and bugs, and produce healthy bountiful fruit. Outside, the air we breathe has about 400-450 ppm (parts per million) of CO2 all the time. For plants, this is a happy level of CO2. However at levels around 200 ppm, a plant can actually start choking or suffocating. At levels this low the plant will not be healthy and may even die. Plants can use levels of CO2 up to 2000 ppm 4-5 times that of normal ambient levels, and achieve optimal growth and production. Performance can be enhanced by adding CO2 to the room, increasing the levels significantly. This can only be done efficiently in a sealed or closed room. This is why air exchange in the room must be happening constantly, ensuring the CO2 does not drop below ambient.
In an open loop system, supplementing with CO2 is a bit wasteful since the fans are constantly exchanging air in the room, bringing it back to ambient CO2 levels in just minutes.
Compared to an open loop room, a sealed or closed loop system has no fresh air intake and no main exhaust. The only air running into the room is for cooling the lights, removing the heat from the room. Since the fan is connected by ducting to an outside fresh air source such as a window or adjacent room, the air never comes in contact with the room air, as long as you use proper air cooling lights with a sealed glass lens. The air is simply brought in through the ducting (always pushed, never pulled through the lights) and pushes the hot air out of the lights through further ducting, normally up into the attic as heat rises.
A simple charcoal filter, with an inline fan for scrubbing and recalculating the air, is also needed to accomplish this properly. The filter or scrubber in this case is running through the room, constantly cleaning the air free of molds, fungi and diseases.
Finally you have the CO2, But instead of being at roughly 450 ppm of CO2 in the air as in an open loop room, we can increase the levels up to 1500-2000 ppm. By doing this we can enhance the plants metabolism rate and its growth and flowering will be dramatically enhanced.
its called "closed loop" method as opposed to "open loop"
the amount of difference you see with high co2 is just amazing, if you ever get a chance thg to try dry ice, or co2 tank or burners i highly recommend it
heres some hard info on it hope it helps
There are two different ways to set up a grow room. Open loop or closed loop, also known as a sealed room. An open loop system has open ventilation, or a fan pushing air into the room and another fan exhausting air out of the room. This is known as ventilation or air exchange. It is exactly what it says; exchanging the old air in the room with fresh, cool CO2 enriched air. In a normal grow room you need to exchange the air at least once every one to two minutes at minimum. Personally, I like to exchange the air about once a minute up to every 30 seconds. Some say thats not necessary but the more air exchange the better in an open loop room. The air exchange is controlling three different elements in the grow room. It is controlling the air temperature, the CO2 levels in the room, and the air quality. As the fresh air is delivered to the room it brings cooler temperatures, flushing out the hot air in the room and replacing it with fresh CO2 enriched air. The fresh air exchange for air quality and CO2 replenishment is one of the most critical factors in a successful grow room.
If your room is completely sealed (closed loop), and the vents bringing in and exhausting air have filters on them, the chances of bugs and diseases getting into the room are greatly lessened. As long as you dont bring in any dirty or infected plants into the room, and dont transport something in from outside on your clothing as you enter the room then you will have a bug and disease free grow room.
Compared to an open loop room, a sealed or closed loop system has no fresh air intake and no main exhaust. The only air running into the room is for cooling the lights, removing the heat from the room. Since the fan is connected by ducting to an outside fresh air source such as a window or adjacent room, the air never comes in contact with the room air, as long as you use proper air cooling lights with a sealed glass lens. The air is simply brought in through the ducting (always pushed, never pulled through the lights) and pushes the hot air out of the lights through further ducting, normally up into the attic as heat rises. A simple charcoal filter, with an inline fan for scrubbing and recalculating the air, is also needed to accomplish this properly. The filter or scrubber in this case is running through the room, constantly cleaning the air free of molds, fungi and diseases
A plant must have the proper CO2 levels in the air to be a healthy plant, with a healthy immune system, which will fight off molds, diseases and bugs, and produce healthy bountiful fruit. Outside, the air we breathe has about 400-450 ppm (parts per million) of CO2 all the time. For plants, this is a happy level of CO2. However at levels around 200 ppm, a plant can actually start choking or suffocating. At levels this low the plant will not be healthy and may even die. Plants can use levels of CO2 up to 2000 ppm 4-5 times that of normal ambient levels, and achieve optimal growth and production. Performance can be enhanced by adding CO2 to the room, increasing the levels significantly. This can only be done efficiently in a sealed or closed room. This is why air exchange in the room must be happening constantly, ensuring the CO2 does not drop below ambient.
In an open loop system, supplementing with CO2 is a bit wasteful since the fans are constantly exchanging air in the room, bringing it back to ambient CO2 levels in just minutes.
Compared to an open loop room, a sealed or closed loop system has no fresh air intake and no main exhaust. The only air running into the room is for cooling the lights, removing the heat from the room. Since the fan is connected by ducting to an outside fresh air source such as a window or adjacent room, the air never comes in contact with the room air, as long as you use proper air cooling lights with a sealed glass lens. The air is simply brought in through the ducting (always pushed, never pulled through the lights) and pushes the hot air out of the lights through further ducting, normally up into the attic as heat rises.
A simple charcoal filter, with an inline fan for scrubbing and recalculating the air, is also needed to accomplish this properly. The filter or scrubber in this case is running through the room, constantly cleaning the air free of molds, fungi and diseases.
Finally you have the CO2, But instead of being at roughly 450 ppm of CO2 in the air as in an open loop room, we can increase the levels up to 1500-2000 ppm. By doing this we can enhance the plants metabolism rate and its growth and flowering will be dramatically enhanced.
707NewGenGrower
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methane? why??? hahaha
T
The Hemp Goddess
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I tried dry ice, yeast and water, etc, etc, years and years ago before we know that CO2 enhancement needs to be controlled and regulated--if you have grown long enough, you have tried everything. I know that DIY systems that do not control or regulate the amount of CO2 are pretty much a waste of time, money, and effort.
I understand the closed loop and the need for a sealed room--part of why I do not run CO2. However, this is not what you said you had or used--you indicated that you personally were putting CO2 into the room and exhausting the room out 30 minutes later--not a closed loop. That is what I could not understand--how the plants benefited from only 30 minutes of CO2 and then exhausting everything to the outside?
I understand the closed loop and the need for a sealed room--part of why I do not run CO2. However, this is not what you said you had or used--you indicated that you personally were putting CO2 into the room and exhausting the room out 30 minutes later--not a closed loop. That is what I could not understand--how the plants benefited from only 30 minutes of CO2 and then exhausting everything to the outside?
707NewGenGrower
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what im doing is a combo between closed and open, i cannot do full closed loop because of temps, so i do half closed (turning off exhasut so co2 is not wasted) then timer switches to open, replaces air cools temps then co2 kicks in again
having it on timer, also ensures my ppm gets too high which eliminates need for controllers
having co2 dripping 6 hours of 12 will be much better than not
having it on timer, also ensures my ppm gets too high which eliminates need for controllers
having co2 dripping 6 hours of 12 will be much better than not
Hushpuppy
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I am with THG on this. I can't see how having only 30 minutes of CO2 injection before having it sucked out would benefit the plants anymore than just having the air being pulled in from outside constantly. I could be entirely wrong on this but, if you flood the room with 1500-2000ppm of CO2 it should take longer than 30 minutes for the plants to be able to utilize it. I would think that your system would work better if you flooded with CO2 for 30min, let sit idle for 1-2hours then flush with fresh air for 30min, then repeat.
Again, I may be wrong but I think the enhancement of your grow is just coming from having a good flow of fresh air that is somewhat supplimented with extra CO2.
Again, I may be wrong but I think the enhancement of your grow is just coming from having a good flow of fresh air that is somewhat supplimented with extra CO2.
HomeTNGrown
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707NewGenGrower said:
I would run a 1k in a 6x6 tent with a flood drain table that was 4x4. in a 4x4 tent i run a 600 watt hps and vent it out with 2 fans from the intake/outtake and i kept it around 80 to 85, I dont use co2 haven't seen it do much of anything when i use it expet for reflling it, but others will swear by it, I would say use the co2 if it was going to get over 85 hope this helps!
rickyjack9
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lots of fan experts out there.
a cheap fan on I/p actually does help a little.
I am also a believer in speed controller. on my 6" 460 cfm o/p fan.
I also dropped 10 degrees with I/p fans from home depot. 120 cfm each.
I have 2 6" I/p ducts.
a cheap fan on I/p actually does help a little.
I am also a believer in speed controller. on my 6" 460 cfm o/p fan.
I also dropped 10 degrees with I/p fans from home depot. 120 cfm each.
I have 2 6" I/p ducts.
Growdude
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Without a ppm controller your just guessing at the levels your at.
Here is a calculator hxxp://www.hydroponics.net/learn/co2_calculator.asp.
You never said what CFM your set at, (need a flow meter, not just a regulator), but at 1CFM your on time should be about 8 min.
In my tent I use motorized dampers that divert my fan from pulling thru my light to exhausting the tent. these are controlled by the C02 controller and temp/humidity controller.
Here is a calculator hxxp://www.hydroponics.net/learn/co2_calculator.asp.
You never said what CFM your set at, (need a flow meter, not just a regulator), but at 1CFM your on time should be about 8 min.
In my tent I use motorized dampers that divert my fan from pulling thru my light to exhausting the tent. these are controlled by the C02 controller and temp/humidity controller.
