R
ROSTERMAN
Guest
I knew someone would comment
I bet good money Walt had his hand in this
The Original Old Farts Club
- Thread starter yooper420
- Start date
I bet good money Walt had his hand in this
J
joeb631
Guest
Thank You I overslept Good Morning
R
ROSTERMAN
Guest
Boo Must still be sleeping LOL
J
joeb631
Guest
normally thats me but I smoked a small field last night and sunrise was up a hour and a half and never told me ....
Found This.
The run side resistor wire runs through the starter motor wiring harness. The resistor wire is a special silver stranded, plastic insulated wire that has what looks like a woven cloth outer covering. Coming off the coil, this outer covering usually gets oil laden and appears to frey. On stock point coils, this wire shares a terminal with the starter energize wire, and is connected to the coil positive terminal on its terminating end.
The resistor wire is only in the engine compartment, starting at the bulkhead (firewall) connector and traveling along the firewall twords the passenger side. The wire is quite long, and travels about half way past the coil inside the loom and then doubles back to the coil.
This length is what gives the proper resistance for use with the stock point and drop-in ignitions such as PerTronix Ignitior and Mallory Unilite units and coils.
Getting the correct length to reinstall the resistor wire into your car would be easiest by simply cutting one out of an existing loom from a wrecking yard. If you must have a new one, go cut up a loom at the wrecking yard and measure the length of the one there, and duplicate it with new resistor wire from any good electronics store. You can also measure the Ohms resistance on the wrecking yard wire for the Ohms spec.
The accepted substitute is to run the ceramic ballast resistor used from 1955 through 1966 GM vehicles, all models. This resistor is mounted on the firewall on the earlier models, but can be hidden for appearance purposes. I get mine from NAPA stores, part number ICR13. Use this resistor for GM applications, not a Ford resistor, not a Mopar resistor, not an aftermarket one, this GM one or its equivelent, GM. These resistors have the proper resistance for GM stock point ignition systems. As of this day and time, the NAPA resistor is list priced at $11.49/each. Other sources may have the SAME resistor for less, do check. Last time I checked, the CORRECT resistor wire for the application was $3.50/foot, and I know the wire is at least 5 to 6 feet long.
The stock resistor wire has exactly the same resistance as the ceramic resistor gives, as it powers the same ignition system in stock form.
Yes, ceramic ballast resistors run hot to the touch, HOT, this is normal.
Of course, if your new engine is going to have an HEI or even an MSD, then no ballast resistor is required in the feed line. Use a 14 guage copper stranded wire for the feed from the same terminal the original resistor wire came from on the bulkhead connector to the ignition feed post of the unit you are using. 14 guage copper stranded wire is quite sufficient for HEI feed, 10 and 12 guage is way over-kill.
That's it in a nutshell, folks. Now, this, and the other posts, should be just about all anyone needs to know about GM ballast resistors.
The run side resistor wire runs through the starter motor wiring harness. The resistor wire is a special silver stranded, plastic insulated wire that has what looks like a woven cloth outer covering. Coming off the coil, this outer covering usually gets oil laden and appears to frey. On stock point coils, this wire shares a terminal with the starter energize wire, and is connected to the coil positive terminal on its terminating end.
The resistor wire is only in the engine compartment, starting at the bulkhead (firewall) connector and traveling along the firewall twords the passenger side. The wire is quite long, and travels about half way past the coil inside the loom and then doubles back to the coil.
This length is what gives the proper resistance for use with the stock point and drop-in ignitions such as PerTronix Ignitior and Mallory Unilite units and coils.
Getting the correct length to reinstall the resistor wire into your car would be easiest by simply cutting one out of an existing loom from a wrecking yard. If you must have a new one, go cut up a loom at the wrecking yard and measure the length of the one there, and duplicate it with new resistor wire from any good electronics store. You can also measure the Ohms resistance on the wrecking yard wire for the Ohms spec.
The accepted substitute is to run the ceramic ballast resistor used from 1955 through 1966 GM vehicles, all models. This resistor is mounted on the firewall on the earlier models, but can be hidden for appearance purposes. I get mine from NAPA stores, part number ICR13. Use this resistor for GM applications, not a Ford resistor, not a Mopar resistor, not an aftermarket one, this GM one or its equivelent, GM. These resistors have the proper resistance for GM stock point ignition systems. As of this day and time, the NAPA resistor is list priced at $11.49/each. Other sources may have the SAME resistor for less, do check. Last time I checked, the CORRECT resistor wire for the application was $3.50/foot, and I know the wire is at least 5 to 6 feet long.
The stock resistor wire has exactly the same resistance as the ceramic resistor gives, as it powers the same ignition system in stock form.
Yes, ceramic ballast resistors run hot to the touch, HOT, this is normal.
Of course, if your new engine is going to have an HEI or even an MSD, then no ballast resistor is required in the feed line. Use a 14 guage copper stranded wire for the feed from the same terminal the original resistor wire came from on the bulkhead connector to the ignition feed post of the unit you are using. 14 guage copper stranded wire is quite sufficient for HEI feed, 10 and 12 guage is way over-kill.
That's it in a nutshell, folks. Now, this, and the other posts, should be just about all anyone needs to know about GM ballast resistors.
J
joeb631
Guest
Resistor ! For Gods sake man ,he lost 2 lbs of gnocchi ! He needs time to deal with it .....!
J
joeb631
Guest
My God ,my head just exploded ....
Unca Walt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2020
- Messages
- 6,156
- Reaction score
- 31,860
My first car had a pull starter.
R
ROSTERMAN
Guest
R
ROSTERMAN
Guest
I heard it had square wheels and peddle powered
R
ROSTERMAN
Guest
Unca Walt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2020
- Messages
- 6,156
- Reaction score
- 31,860
MOVED
16 minutes ago
I beat Minnesota Fats in an exhibition 8-ball game. The guy I was with later palmed the fargin cue ball right offa the table. He gave it to me after we left. I still have it with the chalk still on it.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The above is true. There are extenuating circumstances.
He asked if I wanted to break. I knew if I broke, I'd lose, so I said,
"You break."
Fats: "Then you don't get to shoot." <-- 150 people laughed as my sperm curdled.
He smashed the rack. Balls went absolutely everywhere except in any pocket. I got to shoot. Natch, I was as tense as a bastage at a family reunion.
I lined up my first shot, and Fats blew his nose like a calliope on a sternwheeler. By some luck, the shot went in. Lined up on another, then one more. The fourth ball was tricky... and just as I shot, Fats announced to the crowd:
"What we have here is a straaaiight shooter!" The crowd applauded, and somehow the fourth one went in. By then, I was wired and did not even come close.
Fats got serious and cleaned the table whackety-whack until there was only the 8-ball left. Sitting in front of a corner pocket. And the cue ball was at the same end about two feet away.
Then... it happened. Fats decided to let the crowd know that the local "hustler" was not in his league -- instead of just sinking the 8-ball, he made a three-bank shot to the far end of the table.
Sure enuf, around it came, dead on... and knocked the 8-ball in. And the cue ball followed it in. SCRATCH!!
16 minutes ago
WAIT!!! I do have some use!!
I beat Minnesota Fats in an exhibition 8-ball game. The guy I was with later palmed the fargin cue ball right offa the table. He gave it to me after we left. I still have it with the chalk still on it.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The above is true. There are extenuating circumstances.
He asked if I wanted to break. I knew if I broke, I'd lose, so I said,
"You break."
Fats: "Then you don't get to shoot." <-- 150 people laughed as my sperm curdled.
He smashed the rack. Balls went absolutely everywhere except in any pocket. I got to shoot. Natch, I was as tense as a bastage at a family reunion.
I lined up my first shot, and Fats blew his nose like a calliope on a sternwheeler. By some luck, the shot went in. Lined up on another, then one more. The fourth ball was tricky... and just as I shot, Fats announced to the crowd:
"What we have here is a straaaiight shooter!" The crowd applauded, and somehow the fourth one went in. By then, I was wired and did not even come close.
Fats got serious and cleaned the table whackety-whack until there was only the 8-ball left. Sitting in front of a corner pocket. And the cue ball was at the same end about two feet away.
Then... it happened. Fats decided to let the crowd know that the local "hustler" was not in his league -- instead of just sinking the 8-ball, he made a three-bank shot to the far end of the table.
Sure enuf, around it came, dead on... and knocked the 8-ball in. And the cue ball followed it in. SCRATCH!!
R
ROSTERMAN
Guest
Hey Look What I did LOL^^^^^^^
R
ROSTERMAN
Guest
I bet Boo was cooking CodFish wrapped in foil on the manifolds again
Look for any aluminum shorting out the ignition spark
J
joeb631
Guest
Oh chit shots fired and its early ...
R
ROSTERMAN
Guest
Never told ya Andrew Diceman Clay is my Cousin
The dude is a Chimney when it comes to cigs
The dude is a Chimney when it comes to cigs
R
ROSTERMAN
Guest
Be Careful
And don't get Pregnant
