T Dub’s Durban Poison Winter Garden

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I was able to adjust the net and get the plant on the far right spread out under the net finally. I just needed a little more branch length to reach to far holes in the scrog net. I am planning two more weeks of veg before I flip to flower. I don’t want to grow plants that are too large for the 3 gallon containers. View attachment 365494
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Awesome!

You got it!
 
I've seen ugly scrogs and I doubt this will be one..lol

Stand back and imagine each plant double in size. That's a good guide to let ya know when to flip. That will decide if your going to win or get a Trainwreck..lol

Small space, small screen, stretch growth, adds up quickly. Tenfold for plants vegged to long.

A second net is a good idea
 
I've seen ugly scrogs and I doubt this will be one..lol

Stand back and imagine each plant double in size. That's a good guide to let ya know when to flip. That will decide if your going to win or get a Trainwreck..lol

Small space, small screen, stretch growth, adds up quickly. Tenfold for plants vegged to long.

A second net is a good idea
Thanks Greenmobster! If you think I hit a point where it’s time to flip to flower, please don’t hold back. I think it will be two more weeks…..and I will follow your advice and use 2 nets.
 
A Quick Look at the scrog screen…..still plenty of room to go but it’s filling quickly. Hoping to flip in two weeks so I need to be patient.

Last night they received a foliar feeding with CalMag and seaweed extract.

Today…..
I defoliated more below the screen and I removed some inward facing fan leaves that were blocking bud sites.
I adjusted the ph in the 1.3 gallon reservoirs from 6.4 to 6.0
Wove more branches into the scrog net
Revised the controller programming so that the oscillating fans blow harder as temperatures rise
Added a fan to blow air below the canopy net

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Plenty of air movement
 
A Quick Look at the scrog screen…..still plenty of room to go but it’s filling quickly. Hoping to flip in two weeks so I need to be patient.

Last night they received a foliar feeding with CalMag and seaweed extract.

Today…..
I defoliated more below the screen and I removed some inward facing fan leaves that were blocking bud sites.
I adjusted the ph in the 1.3 gallon reservoirs from 6.4 to 6.0
Wove more branches into the scrog net
Revised the controller programming so that the oscillating fans blow harder as temperatures rise
Added a fan to blow air below the canopy net

View attachment 365585View attachment 365586

Plenty of air movement
View attachment 365587
If you keep this up you could get a visit from Mary Jane

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Well, it’s time for some clarification on scrogging as I’m very inexperienced with this technique. I’ve been aggressively bending branches and my first screen is quickly filling in. I’m supercropping a few branches to cover the open holes in the scrog net. I’m questioning if it’s almost time to flip to flower since this screen looks relatively full and I need room to weave branches during the stretch, right? Is it possible to wait too long to flip? Does a second screen do anything here, or is that to support the upcoming stretch?

I’m assuming that I should flip in three days? That’s the end of week 4 of veg. Logical or should I wait one more week?

If there is any benefit to waiting, I’m open to it. I just don’t want an overcrowded tent. I’m off to go read about scrogging, but I welcome advise or input.

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Your space is filling fast as I figured it would with 3 plants. I'd flip as soon as ya can. You'll have 3+ weeks of stretch growth in flower. Oh my, where to put it all..lol

A common mistake in scrogs is flipping to flower to late to accommodate the area you have. I've flipped scrogs barely touching the screen because I know they will explode into it and double in size.

You have to stand back and imagine double what you have now. Your doing that now and seeing you may be waiting to long.

I'd flip them and train them down hard for 10days and then let them go. Ya may need that second net for support...just dunno till it's time.

A Note about the screen. It's a tool used to spread and support the plant. There's no rule that says you must fill the screen. I have plants now that haven't but every bud sites is getting full on light and that is the goal in scrogging. Max light dialed into only the canopy. Can't get much better than that.
 
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Your space is filling fast as I figured it would with 3 plants. I'd flip as soon as ya can. You'll have 3+ weeks of stretch growth in flower. Oh my, where to put it all..lol

A common mistake in scrogs is flipping to flower to late to accommodate the area you have. I've flipped scrogs barely touching the screen because I know they will explode into it and double in size.

You have to stand back and imagine double what you have now. Your doing that now and seeing you may be waiting to long.

I'd flip them and train them down hard for 10days and then let them go. Ya may need that second net for support...just dunno till it's time.

A Note about the screen. It's a tool used to spread and support the plant. There's no rule that says you must fill the screen. I have plants now that haven't but every bud sites is getting full on light and that is the goal in scrogging. Max light dialed into only the canopy. Can't get much better than that.
Thank you for the scrog guidance!! This could get crowded quickly, so Im changing over to 12-hours effective today. Let the stretch begin…..
 
Great news, I think your on the right track.

Guide the stems that you know will produce large colas to the perimeter of the netting...as best ya can. You'll prob end up removing some growth as ya go. It's gonna get crowded.

At this point you could raise that net a little...just 3-4" up. This would give you more room to retrain them as they stretch. Did that makes sense?

Your going to have a lot of packed leaf so don't hesitate to remove leaf as ya go.
 
Today is officially Day 1 of flower. Changed all timing to 12/12 on lighting yesterday. LED is 18” above the plants and now cranked on full blast. Checked the Daily Light Integral at 12 hours/day and I’m getting a reading around 30. I will likely need to lower the lamp in week 3-5 to increase intensity for better bud development. I want my DLI closer to 40 for that.
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Tomorrow I’ll be mixing up a homemade version of Rock Resinator / Terpinator which increases oil production and mass. I have never tried a side by side to verify that this recipe actually makes a difference, but my research indicates that Potassium Sulfate is a good addition. So here is what I’ll be mixing up tomorrow. Thanks to “Dr. Who” wherever you are (the creator of this recipe)

Recipe:
378.5 grams (volumetric math) of Potassium sulfate powder from Amazon into 1 gallon of water for the 10% solution.
Add the 1.5 tsp of Dark brown Sugar for the carbs. Mix well till everything is dissolved and jug it!

FEED CHART
(DO NOT mix with Silica - this causes a chemical reaction - precipitation)

STARTING Week 3&4
4-ml in 1 gallon of your feed

At week 5&6
6-ml in 1 gallon of your feed

At week 7 till harvest
8-ml in 1 gallon of your feed
 
Just a few quick glamour shots of the first week of flower. My ph and ppm are climbing in the reservoirs which tells me that my plants are drinking more than they are eating. Diluted reservoir with RO water and added some nutrients too. Weekly sheet attached. While my 1.3 gallon reservoirs can feed for multiple days, I’m finding it necessary to adjust reservoir ph daily since it climbs aggressively. Not seeing much stretch yet, but it’s only day 4 of flower.
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Canopy left and right side (to see bud sites)
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Clean below the scrog net with plenty of air movement
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Let’s see how 4 more days of growth looks. Today is the start of week 2 of 12/12 lighting. No budlets showing up yet, but I am starting to see a little stretch. They are drinking/evaporating over 1/3 gallon per plant per day. As far as the self-feeding planter bases, I feel like the wicks and self-feeding reservoirs are BARELY keeping up with the water demands of the plants. The planters are extremely light, so the coco is holding very little water. My theory is that the plants are transpiring as quickly as the wicks can deliver moisture…..not sure. I’m very puzzled, but I may try to find a way to install additional wicks in these feeders. I could have made a mistake by switching to 3 gallon containers too….time will tell. So far the plants look flawless, so I could be overly worried for nothing too.

I am adjusting the ph in the reservoirs daily. Usually requires .5ml of ph down to bring it back to 6.0.

Exhaust fan is doing a good job of holding the VPD at 1.1 during the day. Average temperature is 80 and average humidity is 70% for an average VPD of 1.08. As I progress through flower, I will incorporate the dehumidifier into the plan in the later weeks.

Scrog net is almost invisible now, but it’s still there.

Raised the lamp by 2” which resulted in a Daily Light Integral of 35.5 and a ppfd of 820.

All is going well……this should be a 9-10 week flowering period, so we’re getting there.

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Have you tried an airstone in your reservoir? I put one in mine to help steady my PH. If you keep it oxygenated the PH remains stable in addition to allowing more oxygen to your plants

That’s interesting on the ph impact. I happen to have an air pump and stones in an Autopot kit I never used. That could be an interesting experiment (even in my 3 small reservoirs) except I can’t get the plants off the water reservoirs due to the scrog net. This is where I think Greenmobster’s floating screen would work much better next time. I’ll need to limit myself to two plants in a 2x4 too.

Fortunately it just involves adding a little ph down each day. It’s still easier than feeding coco 2-3 x per day and managing runoff.
 
Want a cheap PH down? Go to your local farm type store and look for Milkstone remover. They use it for cleaning milking devices. I even use it for removing rust off of metal stuff. It's phosphoric acid, same stuff used in GH, but a tiny bit stronger and a whole lot cheaper. Even looks the same color.

PH up? Good ole Arm & Hammer baking soda. Works like a charm.
 
Seeing some early signs of a phosphorous deficiency on multiple plants. A few purple stems starting to show (not many, so I don’t think it’s a trait of this plant). Leaves are showing signs too. I confirmed this using the GrowDoc app which identified it as possibly a phosphorus deficiency, calcium deficiency or ph fluctuation. The phosphorous makes the most sense. Added 6ml of Liquid KoolBloom (0-10-10) to each 1.3 gallon reservoir plus 2ml of CalMag to each reservoir. Topped off with RO water. Ph at 6.1 and ppm at 900. This is an early deficiency that I hope to correct quickly.
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One of the downsides of these self-feeding planters is the salt buildup at the root zone from my synthetic nutrients. It has always resulted in damaged leaves during flower as that salt builds up. I discovered that by flushing the fiber pots at least once to reduce the EC at the root zone, I can finish my grow successfully without damaged leaves. So I incorporate a flush into every grow now.

Today I decided to do a mid-grow flush to remove the salt buildup in the root zone. Flushed with 16 gallons of water treated with Florakleen to dissolve the salts. Flushing solution was probably around 200-300ppm. The first runoff water out of the root zone had a ppm on 1800ppm, so there’s definitely a salt buildup as expected but not as bad as I expected either. I ended the flush by running nutrient solution through the roots with a ppm of 750. Runoff ppm from the three reservoirs before the flush was 1500, 1795 and 1800. After the flush the runoff for the three reservoirs was 845, 1200 and 1100. I’m hoping this will be the only flush I need since this is a short veg and fast flowering strain.

Refilled reservoirs with nutrient water at 6.0ph and 800ppm.

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One of the downsides of these self-feeding planters is the salt buildup at the root zone from my synthetic nutrients. It has always resulted in damaged leaves during flower as that salt builds up. I discovered that by flushing the fiber pots at least once to reduce the EC at the root zone, I can finish my grow successfully without damaged leaves. So I incorporate a flush into every grow now.

Today I decided to do a mid-grow flush to remove the salt buildup in the root zone. Flushed with 16 gallons of water treated with Florakleen to dissolve the salts. Flushing solution was probably around 200-300ppm. The first runoff water out of the root zone had a ppm on 1800ppm, so there’s definitely a salt buildup as expected but not as bad as I expected either. I ended the flush by running nutrient solution through the roots with a ppm of 750. Runoff ppm from the three reservoirs before the flush was 1500, 1795 and 1800. After the flush the runoff for the three reservoirs was 845, 1200 and 1100. I’m hoping this will be the only flush I need since this is a short veg and fast flowering strain.

Refilled reservoirs with nutrient water at 6.0ph and 800ppm.

View attachment 366213
You put nutrients in your bottom feeder and not just water?
 
You put nutrients in your bottom feeder and not just water?
Hey KGB, yes….all feeding is done through the wicks from the reservoir. No top feeding is needed or recommended because of the salt buildup at the root zone. It keeps the bottom 1/3 of the pot damp with nutrient solution. It’s really a slick concept except for the required 1-2 flushes per grow. My memory isn’t that good, but I believe I only needed to flush if using coco. When I used Ocean Forest soil, I dont recall needing anywhere near as many nutrients so I had a lot less salt buildup. There’s plenty of nutes in ocean forest already….at least enough to get through veg.

I’m still intrigued by your earth box….might look at that for next winter grow if they look like two would fit in a 2x4.
 

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