How hot does a 250w cfl get

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Where's the popcorn emoticon? :D

You keep saying the light diminishes after 9"....doesn't that count for the CFL's too? So, after your plant reaches 8" the bottom is now lacking light?
 
slowmo77 said:
i assume that all caps means your gettin an attitude so i'll respond accordingly.

At what point did this become all about you and what your using.
As i recall Dr. Autoflower started this thread. I don't see anyone arguing with you by name. I was simply stating my experiance with Cfl's and Hps lights. if you'll pull your head out of your arse and read what i wrote you'll see that.

you'll never hear (read) me saying that you can't or shouldn't use cfl's or any low budget growing supplies for that matter. when i started i used a hand held floro shop light over a tote full of MG moisture control soil and added lights when i had the money and the need and made it work.

how much cash did you drop on that big cfl? how many lumens is it? how many watts? how close can you get your hand before it gets hot?
i run dual 150w HPS vapor tights now. im sure some members are still here that bought the same lights..
heres the run down on them.
150 watts, 15,900 lumens each. you can get within an 2 inches of the glass before it gets hot and i payed around 20$ each for them. can you beat the price? the lumens? the cost? the heat? thats what i thought!!!!


I paid 20 bucks for that bulb its 125 watts and it puts out 10,500 lumens...LOL
 
Oh Yeah Slowmo I Keep My Bulb About 2 Inches From The Tops Of My Plants...lol
 
so same heat, less light same price you do math
 
I really don't think that the Doc meant to start an argument over CFLs or other types of lights being "better" for growing, but to help him decide what was most appropriate for him in his specific conditions and affordability.

I use my dual 125 Flo over my host plants in dirt for the sole purpose of growing clones and trying to keep the growth rate *down* so I can reduce the amount of trimming I do between taking clone cuts. It may not be the most effective way to do it, but it's the way I like to do it.

Perhaps the Doc is looking for a way that *he* will be most satisfied, but where it may not be the absolute best way of being done.

Just my 1.5 cents. (Taxes got my other .5)
 
dang stoney, taxes only got .5 i tried to give my 2 cents and i owed a dime.
 
slowmo77 said:
dang stoney, taxes only got .5 i tried to give my 2 cents and i owed a dime.

You just made me laugh longer than it took you to type that! Hahahaahahahahahaahahaha :D :rofl:

Ain't it the truth?
Every year....Mo taxes, Mo taxes, Mo taxes...... :hairpull: :cry: :rant:
All I can do is::48: :bong: :bong2:
 
Roddy said:
Where's the popcorn emoticon? :D

You keep saying the light diminishes after 9"....doesn't that count for the CFL's too? So, after your plant reaches 8" the bottom is now lacking light?

Ummm yeah.. Light is light.... It all dimishes over distance. Im not sure the point you are trying to make here.
 
Sixx said:
Ummm yeah.. Light is light.... It all dimishes over distance. Im not sure the point you are trying to make here.

The point I am making is, I want bigger plants than the light can produce and am pointing out this fact to anyone who is reading and may be trying to decide what's best for them. If the light can only feed a part of the plant, either more light will be needed (thus more money all around) or you'll not produce as big or good a crop as you could otherwise.
 
bi0phreak420 said:
Ewww i must have pissed them off my reputation meter is red..lol thats funny

I appreciate those who stand their ground even if not the most popular of stances, as long as we can all treat each other nicely and respect each other at the end! Your rep hasn't been hurt in my eyes, my friend!
 
bi0phreak420 said:
Ewww i must have pissed them off my reputation meter is red..lol thats funny

Bio, I understand that your grow methods work (I grow with CFLs also) but you need to understand that the people and mods are obligated to provide members, especially newbees the BEST way to grow. When you get short with your replies you provoke members. As a newbee you should take a little more time to understand what members are posting before you respond. This is a great source for info and would like to see you stick around.:48:
 
Sixx said:
Ummm yeah.. Light is light.... It all dimishes over distance. Im not sure the point you are trying to make here.

No, not all light is equal. While all lights do diminish over distance, the loss of lumens is not uniform for all light sources. Some lose lumens over a very short distance, like several inches. Some disburse light over a far greater distance, like 3-5 feet.
 
Sixx said:
Maybe we dont need to grow the same amount as an HPS user.
Your comparison is not fair.... You are assuming we are gonna go buy 31 CFls to have 45K Lumens...When in actuality we are only using 8 or 10 CFLs.... You cant tell me 8 or 10 CFLs cost more to operate than a 400W HPS. True the 400W HPS is better, mainly due to the wattage and further reach. It has more lumens and wattage and penetration and and... We know. But from the studies I have done, the difference in end product is not as drastic as you make it sound. Im sure you know light diminishes over distance.... a 400W at 12 inches from the canopy dimishes over 50% of the lumens. Our CFLs at 1inch diminish 0% of the lumens. Not to mention Photosynthetic Active Radiation is the measure of light that a plant actually senses and uses, and it is the light the plant sees and can use that is more important then the actual output lumen of the grow lamp! Another benefit of using CFL’s is that they do not generate as much heat and can be kept almost on top of the plants producing the exact 100% photosynthetic active radiation light, with no loss of intensity. So if you position these lamps close to the leaves you get the benefit of 100% PAR light in the correct 400nw to 700nw range, giving the plant the correct light colours and light quality. You do not get 100% PAR light with an HID. The difference in yield is NOT night and day, it is much closer than most people think.
8-10 wouldn't run as hot as a 400 watt HPS true, we're only saying that comparable lumen levels are more expensive to achieve with cfl... You also would not have the yield with 8-10 CFL's as you get with 400 watt HPS... Not arguing your needs for a large yield, or the fact that growing with CFL's is viable.... Just that HPS is more efficient lumen for lumen!
 
bi0phreak420 said:
YOU WANT FACTS.......the facts are that weed is exactly what we call it a weed .............

there is just SO much wrong about that statement....
by definition, mj was "never" a weed, nor was "hemp"
wiktionary: Any plant growing in cultivated ground to the injury of the crop or desired vegetation, or to the disfigurement of the place; an unsightly, useless, or injurious plant; A species of plant considered harmful to the environment or regarded as a nuisance
pricton edu:any plant that crowds out cultivated plants
websters:a plant that is not valued where it is growing and is usually of vigorous growth; especially : one that tends to overgrow or choke out more desirable plants
wikapedia:A weed in a general sense is a plant that is considered by the user of the term to be a nuisance, and normally applied to unwanted plants in human-made settings such as gardens, lawns or agricultural areas, but also in parks, woods and other natural areas
freedic:A plant considered undesirable, unattractive, or troublesome, especially one growing where it is not wanted, as in a garden.
dictioarydotcom:
a valueless plant growing wild, especially one that grows on cultivated ground to the exclusion or injury of the desired crop.
2.any undesirable or troublesome plant, especially one that grows profusely where it is not wanted:
 
I may be wrong in this, but I think it's the appliance "the light bulb" that determines the throw of the light, not the spectrum. The power of the bulb, the thickness and refractivity of the glass and the intensity of the source, not the spectrum.

Lumens are no more than an International standard of the measure of the total amount of photons that strike a globe at exactly one foot. That quantity represents the intensity of the source and physical characteristics of the objects it passes through on it's way to the point of measurement.

Photons are the actual physical light itself.

I knew a "Lighting" Engineer one time. His reference books on nothing but the engineering aspects of lighting had a combined number of pages of about 50 thousand in maybe 75 books on just lighting.

There is so very much about the subject that its really intimidating.

When you say "Not all light is equal", I would further refine the statement into "Not all light bulbs are equal and the amount and type of light they produce is not always equal"

All things being equal, I believe that *If each light source was equal in its intensity, the distance each part of that light would travel would also be equal*.

For example, LEDs have different amounts of power. A 300 watt LED will have a further throw than a 28 watt LED like I use.

HIDs with more power also have a further throw.

It's not the *type* of light that creates the ability to reach further distances, but the power of the source light. Less power, less throw.

The intensity of the light when it reaches the point at which it's absorbed or reflected is also based on its intensity at its source. The equation for light intensity during travel has about 2 million variables. The ones concerned with the bulbs we use for growing and the distances we use them at radically decreases the complications to those equations and brings it to basically:

1. The initial intensity of the light.

2. The distance traveled.

Light type has very little to do with it at distances of less than a billion miles.

A 28 watt LED will travel about 18 inches before it loses its ability to be useful to a plant for full growth.

If that same LED were 1000 watts, it would have equal throw with a 1000 watt MH or HPS.

Not the same spectrum, but the same throw.
 
this was a very good read, with physical evidence from real time growers that is put in layman terms that is easy for most to understand. thank you...

:cool:
 
Dang looks like I missed a really great pissing match here. As you were.
 
so for the guy who created this thread...if heat & noise is the biggest issue for you. more important then yeild, cost, and energy consumption. heres my what i would do...

i forget the exact wattage it changes at, but if im remembering this correctly, up to and including a 26W cfl will run at exactly 90degrees. no matter how long you run them.

12 26W cfls will give you enough light for 4sq/f, no fan for cooling needed. but remember you still need to exchange your air, need that CO2
 
Irish said:
this was a very good read, with physical evidence from real time growers that is put in layman terms that is easy for most to understand. thank you...

:cool:


I was just thinking the same thing here:icon_smile:
 

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