Development advice for 1 month old plant

[John Kramer]

every 2 weeks untill there no more mites

actually every 3 days for 1 time ( 3 treatment )

 

[Berat Temel]

actually every 3 days for 1 time ( 3 treatment )

There seems to be a big difference between spraying neem oil on the plant every 2 weeks and applying it 3 times every 3 days. Is this difference related to the time it takes for pests to die and the plant's response to oil? Can you enlighten me, John?

 

[John Kramer]

every 3 day bs of their eggs (eggs will hatch 48-72h)
idk about neem oil, i'm talking about pesticides

3 times every 3 days

1 time every 3 days

 

[Berat Temel]

I'm thinking of transplanting the plant to a larger pot. In the new pot, there will be a mixture of peat soil with mixed organic fertilizer, cocopeat peat with magnesium and calcium additives, worm castings and perlite. I will also add extra water-soluble 20.20.20 NPK fertilizer, which is concentrated in Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium. I saw that the roots were hanging from the drainage holes in the current pot. I made the decision to transplant accordingly and the development of the plant is instantly as seen in the images. Do you think I should wait a little longer or start the transplant process?

 

[Berat Temel]

I haven't taken any action against mites yet, I'm waiting for the neem oil shipment

 

[John Kramer]

to slow em down u can sprey with water like nonstop (u can use water+soap that's even better)
i see phosphorus overdose, so stop using it!!!
before flowering use only 10-30 milligrams or 1-3% on a plant

 

[John Kramer]

also u can put a transparent bag on it to keep a high rate of humidity
put inside a little cup with 2.8g of citric acid + 3.2g of sodium bicarbonate and 3g of water. alltogether it's gonna make 1 liter of co2 to boost the growth (add water last and inside the bag then quickly zip it)

 

[Berat Temel]

Thank you for the technical information, John. Doesn't putting the plant in a bag prevent it from breathing? Should I stop the ventilation fan in this case? And do you find the nutrients I determined for the soil amendment correct? I do not directly feed foods with phosphorus added, but of course there is phosphorus among the foods I give in combination. I may not be able to go through a very detailed plant growing process, so I try to proceed with superficial but effective methods. To this end, I try to act with the advice I receive, especially from experienced breeders like you.

 

[John Kramer]

Doesn't putting the plant in a bag prevent it from breathing?

light+co2=photosynthesis day breathing
dark+oxygen=night breathing
if u give ur plant hours of dark just put off the bag for few minutes and put it on again

And do you find the nutrients I determined for the soil amendment correct?

if u feed ur plant this way it can be really tricky, so u have to look on leaves, they're gonna show u all the symptoms, also in early veg they need only 1\3 of those norms

 

[John Kramer]

veg NPK = 4 to 1 to 3 +-1
exmp u have fertilizer N4% P2% K6% so u give a plant 1 / 0.5-1 /1
that's bs i'm feeding with a spoon now, i've had lethal overdose with phosphorus, i'm gonna show u pics later

 

[CrashMagnet]

The neem oil will provide some control, but I don't know of anyone who has completely eradicated spider mites once they were on a plant, and definitely not with any soap or pesticide. You will very likely have them all the way through harvest. They will also spread to any other plants you have growing, including house plants if you travel between them regularly.

I dealt with them (two spot spider mites) for an entire season until I finally went several weeks with nothing growing and sterilized the rooms and tents I was growing in. Up until that point I tried increasingly radical methods including blasting the plants under the leaves with the garden hose.

The hose worked pretty well on the larger plants, but for smaller plants the thing that worked best was to submerse them upside down in a bucket of water (I added about 10% alcohol) for 30 minutes. The plants were pretty unhappy for several days after, but were mite free for a while. I couldn't even find eggs under the leaves. But of course, the mites were on other plants and in the rooms and tents where I was growing, so they were back almost before the plants recovered from their bath.

If I was sure I had spider mites, and my plants were not close to harvest I personally would toss them and take care of my grow spaces before growing anymore. Fighting them again would be too much work for me. Not saying you should toss yours. With a single young plant you might be able to get rid of them.

 

[John Kramer]

every 3 day bs of their eggs (eggs will hatch 48-72h)

9-10 days and it'll be over
i'm using

aversectin C 2%​

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avermectin

 

[John Kramer]

Those on the sides are at point of no return ='(
the middle one has been flushed and transplanted to the new soil

 

[Berat Temel]

Those on the sides are at point of no return ='(
the middle one has been flushed and transplanted to the new soil

Wow, this was a really bad experience. But I'm sure this experience has taught you a lot about nutrition. The knowledge you have gained here allows you to be more cautious with new plants today.

These are the values of the water-soluble powder fertilizer I have. According to these values, I learned that I should apply the fertilizer dose in the amount of 2 teaspoons per 5 liters of water. Of course, this amount can be divided according to the amount of water. How do you think I should adjust the dose according to these values? So far I have fertilized once and that is half a teaspoon into half a liter of water.

 

[John Kramer]

1g = NPK 20/ 20/20
u need P2O5 only 30mg
0,2*0.436*0,4=0,03488 so 35mg = 0.4g of fertilizer per liter (but i'd recommend per plant)
u'll have to add some N and K from another fertilizer or u'll overdose ur plant with P2O5

 

[WeedHopper]

Glad I use Fox Farms fertilizers. Easy peasy and pretty straightforward. No guessing about usage. It's on the bottle.

 

[Berat Temel]

I changed the soil and transplanted it to a larger pot. For now, I will wait for the plant to adapt to the new pot and for the low-release fertilizers in the soil to be absorbed. I will continue to monitor the nutrient status by observing the leaves. At this stage, I will water it once a week with water from the reverse osmosis water purification system in my house, but I do not control the pH. There is a soil pH regulator with humic acid added in the soil, do I still need to adjust the pH of the water?

 

[Berat Temel]

The pre-transplant light cycle was 18/6. Should I continue with the same light cycle or do I need to change this as well?

 

[John Kramer]

soil ph 6-7

18/6

in my opinion if u set to 24h then every 4 days will give u 1 extra day of growth so if time is of essence...

 

[Berat Temel]

soil ph 6-7

in my opinion if u set to 24h then every 4 days will give u 1 extra day of growth so if time is of essence...

I've read many different growers' opinions about the light and dark cycle, and from what I've learned, the plant needs darkness as well as light. To be frank, I was happy to see the plant I grew raise its leaves upwards in the dark, but this rise does not happen much when under light. The plant remains stable under light, but in the dark it literally screams "yuppie".

The lighting equipment I use consists of a total of 4 LED bulbs, 2 yellow and 2 white. I cannot say that it is a very high-quality equipment. I grow the plant in my closet and I solved the lighting problem by combining the cables and lampholders in my house by setting up a portable lighting system But it has not caused any problems so far and I think it still imitates the sun, even though it is not full spectrum.

I also leave the red tone on with a simple 1 meter LED strip. Now you're telling me to set up the lighting so it doesn't cycle at all for 24 hours until harvest? If your experiences support this, I can continue this way..