worm castings for complete grow?

[shuggy4105]

is it possible to use worm castings for the complete grow, without adding any other nutes to your soil mix?:ccc: :ccc:

 

[kindphriend]

Anything is possible. Worm castings are an excellent source of NPK as well as calcium and magnesium. I think there would be a problem of oxygen to the roots, you would neet to add some vermiculite to air out the soil a little.
I think it would be a great experiement shuggy.....try it out and let us know.

 

[shuggy4105]

yeah KP, i was meaning with perlite/vermiculite.
won`t i come up short on trace ellaments though??:joint:

 

[kindphriend]

yeah KP, i was meaning with perlite/vermiculite.
won`t i come up short on trace ellaments though??:joint:

Many trace elements can be found in your standard water. Mineral water contains many trace elements as well. Although I don´t know the exact chemical breakdown of worm castings, I would say that they as well will contain trace elements as well as microorganisms and fungi.

 

[shuggy4105]

cool, i might give it a shot. i`ll need to find out the amounts to give etc.
should be interesting....
thanx for the reply dude

 

[DLtoker]

You can do it, but your yield wouldn't be worth it. Worm casting are only good for a little nitrogen. I would give it a whirl just to see what comes of it. But in the end, just using worm castings is not enough to make a good organic mix. Many other additives to the soil would be ideal.

 

[newgreenthumb]

Most earthworm castings are mainly a source of N and some calcium and Iron. I also would be leary relying on the trace elements in the water supply. Try "Espoma" brand Plan-tone with a ratio of 5-3-3 and all essential 15 trace elements.

 

[bombbudpuffa]

I'm trying a new mix of 40% castings, 40% MG organic mix, 20% perlite. I'll keep you guys posted!

 

[shuggy4105]

BBP, is that for a complete grow including flowering, no additional nutes?
And will you be growing in that mix from seed? would`ve thought that will be a "hot mix" no? for seedlings?
are you doing a journal on the grow?

 

[bombbudpuffa]

Worm castings will not burn period. I'm going to use organic nutes but only if my babies ask for some. My AK48 I have growing hasn't gotten any nutes and this is day 40 flower. She has fat buds, covered in triches. I transplanted to this mix(30 day veg Hashberry). I don't think i'm going to do a journal but i'll keep you posted.

 

[shuggy4105]

no micro nutrients?

 

[bombbudpuffa]

Worm castings has hundreds of micro nutrients! One of the reasons it's so good for an additive.

 

[newgreenthumb]

I'm trying a new mix of 40% castings, 40% MG organic mix, 20% perlite. I'll keep you guys posted!

Now that sounds like a great mix. Good thing about organics your risk for overnuting is low.

 

[shuggy4105]

Worm castings has hundreds of micro nutrients! One of the reasons it's so good for an additive.

great man, i just bought 16 litres of them recently. cost a small fortune, but it`ll be worth it in the end.
i`m just about to transplant my gals for flower, any advice as a standard amount required per gallon of soil? (i`m transplanting into 3 gal containers)

 

[bombbudpuffa]

I think it's 20% of your mix. I also read somewhere that you should have no more than 10-15% perlite/vermiculate in your mix. Wait a minute...

Common mistakes

Many plant care mistakes occur because growers pick up bits and pieces of information here and there but do not really understand how, and if, they fit together in cannabis cultivation.
Cannabis is not an orchid and it's not a cactus. It doesn't like to be periodically drenched in water or grow in excessive humidity (60% +) like an orchid. It also doesn't enjoy growing in a dried up substrate or in a high mixture of perlite/sand like a cactus.
Below are some of the most frequent mistakes growers make and why these particularly affect the plants in a hot environment.

High amount of perlite/vermiculite/coarse matter (wood chips, etc.) in soil:
Ready-to-use quality potting soil is already perfectly mixed by the manufacturer for direct use. It has a balanced water-to-air ratio to prevent excessive drying out and to prevent soil getting too compact. Potting soil is based on a mix of various materials such as peat, compost, worm manure, with traces of perlite, coco coir, etc. Adding large amounts of perlite/vermiculite/coco coir (ie. 10% and more) creates a very dry substrate with many non-nutritive pockets. This depletes plants of valuable minerals and considerably lowers the water retention capacity of the soil.
Rich soil = nutrients/water retention = fast root & plant growth = health = prolonged resistance

Bottom or top layer of hydro correls or stones in pots:
Not a good idea and based on the false assumption that this is beneficial (for example for drainage/water retention). Hydro correls have a poor pH that is very alkaline (pH 8+). When you water through these from the top you „corrupt“ the pH of the soil and cause minerals to become locked and unavailable for the plants. The result are symptoms of deficiency.
Roots grow down due to gravity. The majority of roots in a cannabis plant are to be found in the bottom half of the pot and in particular along the bottom (later, when the plants start to outgrow the pot the roots will fill it to the top). If the roots hit a dry layer of stones/hydro correls with many air pockets they shrivel, dry up, and the plant has less root mass to supply it's top growth. Again, also valuable nutrients and water are lost, because the bottom is not layered with potting soil.

Overfeeding:
One of the biggest mistakes in a hot area is to fertilize excessively. High salt content in the substrate draws water out of the plant through osmosis. The plant suffers from overheating of the cells because it can't transpire to cool down. The result is that plant cells die (necrosis). Leaves wither and drop, leaf and bud growth comes to a halt. Make sure you never feed more than 0.6-0.7 EC on soil indoor or 0.8 EC outdoor. Don't feed more than every 8-10 days with mineral ferts. Be especially careful with potent organic ferts like Guano that have quickly available nitrogen. Stop feeding the last 3 weeks of flowering and don't feed at all if your plants are healthy and pumping out buds. Keep EC at or below 1.4 in hydro.

Underwatering:
Don't let the bottom half of pots dry out completely. Water outdoor plants during the morning so that they have enough water stored when the midday heat strikes. Use water retention crystals in the soil mix for guerilla grows in arid places.
Water = nutrients/moisture = growth = health = prolonged resistance.

No trays underneath pots
It helps to water occasionally from the bottom as well. Water from top or bottom alternately and not at the same time to prevent overwatering. When pots dry out quickly, or too much, the soil develops cracks - especially along the container edges. The water then quickly runs through to the bottom without being properly soaked up by the soil. This cause run-off and leaches nutrients out of the soil if it happens often. Trays catch the run-off and make it available for the plant. They also allow for even spread of moisture in the pots if the soil was very dry.

Insufficient pot size:
Small containers dry out quickly and leave your plants stunted. In hot conditions give your plants more root space and substrate to prevent unecessary drying out. If you are growing on a balcony or in pots outdoor make sure you have at least 2-6 gallon containers for your flowering plants.
Bigger pots=more roots/water/nutrients = better provision = lusher growth = health.

Clogged drip system:
Above average temperatures quickly lead to clogged drip systems in hydroponics. The nutrient solution in drips evaporates leaving fertilizer salt residues behind that block free passage. Feeding tanks may also develop slimy residues if not cleaned and filled with fresh nutrient solution regularly. This will also clog the system. For some reason drips that are hardest to reach tend to clog the most often! So check your system regularly if all plants are receiving their nutrient solution – especially if you are using rockwool which dries up super-fast.

Weak ventilation:
Make sure your air intake and output fans have the capacity to keep temps as low as possible in your grow space. The performance indicated on the packaging is always less in real terms. Calculate 2-3 times more performance for your needs. Have a rotating fan on 24 hrs. to move air constantly and prevent stale, hot air pockets in the room.

Wrong lamp system/light schedule:
Switch to lamps with less heat emission (400W/cool tube instead of 600/1000W). Use a light rail or switch off one lamp during the peak heat wave. Organize your grow so that the veg cycle is before or after the hottest month. Start the light cycle in the evening when outside temps cool down. Put your ballasts in a seperate space – they also emit heat.

Poor pest control:
A strong pest attack weakens plant defenses and makes them more susceptible to the negative effects of heat. Several pests thrive under warm conditions and if left unchecked turn into a serious problem. In particular spider mites are a common pest during the summer and they withstand high temps and low humidity. Neem oil is a good biological pesticide and plant enhancer that should be sprayed as a precautionary measure and to control pest populations. Sticky traps keep flying pests under control such as adult thrips, white flies, black flies, and aphids. Don't wait until it is too late. Think in terms of prevention and take action to keep your grow space clean.

Useful products

There are some products which can assist considerably during a hot grow. Here is our favourite, most reliable, value-for-money list:

Worm manure
Increases the water retention capacity of potting soil and is especially important when growing in containers. Nourishes microorganisms in the soil, provides nutrients and many valuable trace elements (there are 100+ known trace elements beneficial to plants and these are not or hardly contained in peat based potting soil). Enhances aroma and flavour of your crop.
Mix 10-15% with your soil.

Compost
This is decomposed organic material that has been thoroughly composted. It has the same beneficial aspects of worm manure but can be mixted in higher amounts in your soil mix. Some compost can even be used pure.

BioMagix (and the BioFilter)
BioMagix is a product in powder form pioneered and produced by General Hydroponics. One of the most meaningful new products in recent years. In hydroponics: this specific mix of bacteria decomposes the organic matter and debris in the nutritive solution and transforms this potential source of disease into a supplement of mineral salts readily available to the plants. For regular water containers: stale water and the spread of pathogens is prevented. Water can be held indefinately in a tank until needed.
Substrates and soils watered with BioMagix treated water benefit from the micro-organisms that protect the root mass from pathogen fungi by surrounding the roots with a protective barrier. For best results one should use the BioFiltre in combination with the BioMagix. The BioFiltre also oxygenates the water/nutrient solution and „hosts“ the micro-organisms.
More info: www.eurohydro.com

Water retention crystals
An option for guerilla grows or if you are not able to tend your garden regularly. The products which can be mixed into the soil are most effective.

PS: A good grow book goes a long way in providing a firm basis of educated information. Some people spend hundreds of dollars on seeds and equipment and don't consider picking up a cultivation book for 25$... but it helps to do that.

 

[shuggy4105]

worm manure = worm castings, yeah?

 

[bombbudpuffa]

Yep.

 

[allgrownup]

something to think about

1lb of red worms cost about 20 bucks,

that's a ball of worms about the size of a softball. You will be able to harvest some castings within 2 months. and more frequent as the worms multiply.

and they do multiply quite fast. Plus it gives you something else to do rather than stare at your plants :ccc: