Watering

[stinkyattic]

The are so many variables- ratio of plant to pot size, water retentive potential of the medium, ambient temperature/humidity/co2 levels that affect transpiration rate- there's no one size fits all approach.

I also like washable reusable plastic pots, the sturdier the better.

 

[Steve1]

I’ve always used inexpensive plastic pots from the local nursery because I never reuse them. I’ll use them for other purposes around the garden but if I can wash and thoroughly dry the fabric pots I’ll probably try them next. One other thing is I like the rigidity of the plastic so if I need to reach in and grab a plant I can usually do so with one hand

 

[rubrown]

The are so many variables- ratio of plant to pot size, water retentive potential of the medium, ambient temperature/humidity/co2 levels that affect transpiration rate- there's no one size fits all approach.

I also like washable reusable plastic pots, the sturdier the better.

Using the air-pots and side slatted open pots, seem to be best, however once root mass is established they all dry at the same time. Use of the same brand soil helps predict and adjust to each grow. I've had good luck with small pots. Fertilize every other watering, with liquid nutes 5 mills per gallon cal/mag. Good results by keeping them dry, no more than a cup, per week until switch, then at day 45 stop nutes and flush an entire gallon of RO through each pot. After that, no more than one cup of water applied directly to base of stem, as needed until trichs are at desired level of Amber. Worked pretty good this time, burns nice and even that way. Potent enough without a long cure.

 

[Locked]

Once I went to Smart Pots I never went back. I love them. I don't grow in anything bigger than 1 gallon.

 

[rubrown]

Agreed, smaller pots, less mess, less odor, easier to maintain the rhythm of abundant growth then majestic flowering.

 

[stinkyattic]

The only thing I flower in pots larger than a gallon is retired moms. I also like gallon pots with side vents very much for flowering out clones with 2-4wk veg time depending on strain vigor. Its very predictable and helps cut down the chaos in my flower room. Bonus!

 

[Steve1]

Folks I have a question. Do y’all check your ph after you add nutes? I never even thought of it. I use ro water and usually ph the water between 6.6-7.0. Then I add my nutrients. Last night I harvested my sour diesel but I still have 2 other plants that need feeding tomorrow. Tonight after I adjusted the water and adding nutrients I rechecked it and it was at 5.5. I readjusted it to 6.6. Do you check before and after?

 

[stinkyattic]

No reason to check RO water before. The ionic strength is so low, like, under 10ppm tds, if your system is running well it's under 2, that ph is irrelevant. Most inexpensive meters cant even read it accurately and at best are extremely slow to stabilize.
Check after, and do your final adjustment right before you water with it.

 

[Steve1]

Thanks. I always appreciate your advice. I just never thought about it. Maybe that’s part of any problems I was having with the last grow

 

[stinkyattic]

It's a common thing people think about water quality going in, which is fair, and trust the fertilizer manufacturers that it will stay "good" after mixing which is sometimes true and sometimes not
Every grow is a chance to use a new set of wisdom from the last one!!!

 

[Keef]

I don't know if it would even apply because most well water and dirt got plenty Cal/mag but in water farming we gotta add some cal/mag to RO water !- U in dirt maybe That's not a problem ?-- I don't water so this not my area of expertise -- I top off my aero boxes with nute water once a week or so depending on stage of growth !

 

[Steve1]

I don't know if it would even apply because most well water and dirt got plenty Cal/mag but in water farming we gotta add some cal/mag to RO water !- U in dirt maybe That's not a problem ?-- I don't water so this not my area of expertise -- I top off my aero boxes with nute water once a week or so depending on stage of growth !

Thanks Keef. I’ve always been under the impression that since I used RO water I needed to add the calmag. I’ve been wanting to try soil less growing.

 

[Keef]

I went from using RO water at the beach -- ( tap water PH 8.5 - 330 ppms )- to using this east Texas well water on the edge of a swamp !- Down to well water a splash of EM1 and a small splash of botanocares pro bloom or pro grow nutes - Plants love it !-- I've considered drip and drain but I got these aero boxes So might as well adapt and use them !--
My biggest problem be those 2 inch aero baskets I grow in !- Small base make the plant get top heavy easy and want to fall over ! - I'm fix that later !

 

[rubrown]

I haven't PH'ed in years the tap water is always the same. My ph kit is expired by now, as all my organic nutes purchased 7-10 years ago, I just know how and when, most people learn their water, nutes, and conditions, just a constant adjustment to conditions. I am going to PH though now this next dry drench.

 

[Steve1]

I don't have an RO filter. I buy it from a machine near the local grocery store and the ph is usually around 7.5-8.0 when I get it. Since I lowered the ph before I added the nutrients and it dropped the ph to around 5.5, maybe adding the nutes will lower the ph more to where I need it and I wont have to any or much adjusting
SA, you are correct, every grow adds a little more knowledge, I kept a detailed journal this time around

 

[WeedHopper]

I grow in soil also. I normally go by the weight of the pot. I know what it feels like when its getting dry. It stays wet longer on the bottom half so the finger test doesn't always work for me.
Works pretty good for all my plants including Tomatoes and peppers i keep in 5 gallon buckets.

 

[Daxtell]

My tap water runs about 100 ppm, and pH is between 7-8. Adding nutes drops my pH. When I adjusted pH first, then added nutes, i had to sometimes readjust in the other direction, wasting pH up.

Since then, i check pH and nutes, add nutes, recheck nutes until dialed in, then adjust final pH. My plants quit growing if i adjust the pH over .5 in a day.

Edit mis fingered a number on the ppm

 

[stinkyattic]

I went from using RO water at the beach -- ( tap water PH 8.5 - 330 ppms )- to using this east Texas well water on the edge of a swamp !- Down to well water a splash of EM1 and a small splash of botanocares pro bloom or pro grow nutes - Plants love it !-- I've considered drip and drain but I got these aero boxes So might as well adapt and use them !--
My biggest problem be those 2 inch aero baskets I grow in !- Small base make the plant get top heavy easy and want to fall over ! - I'm fix that later !

Over 300?! Keef man I think that's like, how much salt I put in the pasta pot!!! Holy brackish!
Perfect example of a time you HAVE to use RO !

 

[rubrown]

Always good, you cycle wet/dry, normal soil, normal water, approximate ideal outdoor conditions to maximize good fruits with good production, least expenditure. High watts, well, so it goes... if you have them, budget lights are getting better.

 

[MAINElyMaria]

Once I went to Smart Pots I never went back. I love them. I don't grow in anything bigger than 1 gallon.

I use the Smart pots myself with the velcro on the side. Im just curious, you don't transplant into bigger size pots? what is your yield per plant in a one gallon? 40 ladies in 3 gallon smart pots my partner threw into the bloom room last week without asking me. kinda freaking out. I usually Transplant my clones Into 4x4 inch "pots" then 3 or 5 gallons. my indoor up to 10 gallon pots. my outdoor a whole different ballgame. Looking for advice here as my business partner does things HIS WAY on indoor growing.