Temperatures and Light Sealing

[getnasty]

400W Metal Halide

I'm going to be switching to 500W of HPS (400+100)

Opened my closet this morning to see my temperatures at 90 degrees, with the door shut. With the door shut, it's supposed to be around 80 degrees, which is still high, but tolerable. Last night, I put a mylar "door" behind the door, to try to help light-seal the room. Is this what's causing my temperature to get so high? If so, I'll remove it asap and lightseal the closet somehow else. When the lights are off, I'm seeing light spill from between the cracks in the door, which isn't a huge deal as far as security's concerned because the landlord doesnt roll around here at night. But I don't want to stress the girls with the light leak, either. And I need those temperatures in check!

I got my other 200CFM fan working. I really didn't think I would need another one, but should I run the two 200CFM fans together in a series to cool the room down some more? I can, if need be. I just need to get more ducting and rearrange the way the room is set up.


-nasty

 

[PuffinNugs]

imo 200cfm is not enough. even when using my 4oo watt, which is rare now, my fan speed controller is set to over half way on a 435cfm fan.

how are you venting your fans? you put a hole through the wall or what? do you have passive intakes or ere you pulling the air through the cracks of the door.

just trying to picture your setup and cant.

 

[getnasty]

There are pics in my journal that you replied in. Lol!

It sounds like you recommend running both of those fans in a series for added air flow. I figured as much. It should cool me down to the high 70s. I will need to get more ducting and clamps, but I can put the carbon filter on the floor behind the plants. Atleast until they get bigger, in which case I'll have to install a shelf for the filter to sit upon.

Here you go, your HIGH-ness.


-nasty

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

What kind of fans are you using? A 200 cfm sounds like a duct booster fan. If this is what you are using, they just do not have enough ooommph to do the job.

 

[Jericho]

I Would tighten up that ducting as that will cause less air to be pulled and maybe move that filter closer to the lamp. That way it will pull heat straight from the lamp before it spreads through the room.

 

[getnasty]

Just checked the label, THG. They are the GrowBright 4" High Velocity 170CFM [] Inline Fan's.


-nasty

 

[getnasty]

I Would tighten up that ducting as that will cause less air to be pulled and maybe move that filter closer to the lamp. That way it will pull heat straight from the lamp before it spreads through the room.

By tightening up, do you mean shortening the ducting between the fan and the exhaust hole?


-nasty

 

[Jericho]

Yeh. You should only have as much ducting as you need. Otherwise it just puts more stress on the fan to pull air. Can you maybe move the exit hole higher up? Why is it down so low?

 

[PuffinNugs]

yes imo you have way too much ducting going on, plus the CFM is just not enough. (i have same fan from HTGsuppy, never use it, loud. got the 6" instead, much more cfm and quieter)

in that space i would look into a different hood, an air-cooled hood. that way you can hook the ducting right to it and vent the bulb before it goes into the room, while exhausting the room itself at the same time.

does that hood your using have the upgrade option? im guessing its a hydrofarm radiant.

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

First of all, I would not be using the filter at all until you need it. And when you do, you are going to need a bigger/better fan (check the min CFM for your filter--bet it is 220 or more).

Next, I would get the exhaust somewhere close to my light to try and pull heat from there. I do not raise and lower my light--I raise and lower my plants. An air cooled hood would help a whole bunch with heat.

Next, you need to deal with the ducting. You want as short a run as possible and NO dips and as few bends as possible. You might want to check into some semi rigid ducting. Is there any reason that the exhaust does not exit the room at the top where the fan is sitting now? You could go straight out with no virtually no bends in the ducting.

 

[getnasty]

The exhaust is as low as it is so it can be concealed by my dresser, in the event of any unwanted visitors. Stealth is the idea. I did not want to cut a hole into the attic, as I rent the property. So I bought a new door and cut the holes in it, instead.

I've been trying to avoid getting the air-cooled hood. As I've stated before, I don't make a whole lot of money where I work, and am still having trouble finding work in my career field. However, it looks like it's going to have to be another incurred expense. I already have to buy an HPS grow light, as I purchased a MH inadvertantly and have no way of returning it.

I don't think my hood has the upgrade option. It was purchased from craigslist.

At this point in time, it's looking like I'm going to have to make a large sacrifice over the next few weeks, bite the bullet, and purchase this:

hxxp://htgsupply.com/Product-Digital-Greenhouse-Dimmable-400-Watt-Grow-Light.asp

I believe it comes with an air-cooled hood, a dimmable 400w ballast, that can fire MH or HPS. I think this will ultimately be the cheapest solution to my issue. That, and now I also need a 6" fan. Oy vey. But I can return the 4" I just purchased, and for another additional $20 or so, get the 6". This should be adequate yes? Please say yes... Lol. -_-

First of all, I would not be using the filter at all until you need it. And when you do, you are going to need a bigger/better fan (check the min CFM for your filter--bet it is 220 or more).

Without it, my bedroom smells like soil. Might be a little suspicious. Also, the healthy plant is starting to give off a heavy trace scent of marijuana already.


-nasty

 

[getnasty]

Where are you measuring your temps from ?
Pic four shows what looks like a thermometer attached to the carbon filter ?
I measure my temps at canopy height

Yeah, that's the only thermometer in there. I have a non-digital thermometer i can put down by the plants but I'm almost scared to do it. Lol.


-nasty

 

[Jericho]

If its that high up near the filter imagine the temp on the plants. Always test your temps at the canopy otherwise whats the point? hehe. Temp is being regulated for the plants after all.
Maybe you could cut a hole at the top of the door and just get a poster to stick other it if someone comes round.

As others have said looking into another fan would be an ideal idea if you keeping that filter mate.

 

[getnasty]

Any tips on light sealing door cracks? So I can take the mylar door cover off.


-nasty

 

[Jericho]

draft strips will help with cracks
Light baffles will help with the inlets
is that a power cord entering the room, lower rhs of the door?

Thats def a power cord. Should just pass it through the air intake.

 

[getnasty]

I closed the door this morning for a couple hours with the thermometer at the canopy level. It's steady at 85 degrees. With the door open it drops to about 82 degrees. I'm getting ready to lower the filter to the light level, but figure I should probably move the fan with it, instea of hanging it in the top of the closet. Maybe staple some mylar to the bottom of that shelf, and move it down to increase light reflection? I'm hoping this helps regulate my temperatures, as I'm worried about having to make this investment very soon, with little means to do so.

I will be able to put my air conditioner in the window across the room very soon. And the heat will be turned off as we go into spring. It cools my bedroom very well in the summer months.

When I put that notch in the door for the power strip, I was misinformed that it was not a good to plug a power strip into an extension cord. I did some research and it appears that this isn't a hazard as I previously thought, so I'll pass it under the dresser, through the intake. It'll make it a bit stealthier, anyways. Thanks! In regards to the light baffles, I don't see any on Lowes' website that are 2.5".

-nasty

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

Are you actually even pulling any air through the filter? With a 170 cfm fan and most filters requiring at least 220 cfm or so fan, it is hard for me to see where you are exchanging much air at all...

What do you have that is 2.5"? You're not trying to exhaust with a single 2.5 inch hole are you? If so, that is not nearly big enough.

When running extension cords, make sure that you are running a large enough gauge cord.

 

[PuffinNugs]

one thing i notice about your setup is the exhaust and intakes.

it looks like your exhausting out, then the intakes are sucking th ehot air right back in.

 

[getnasty]

Are you actually even pulling any air through the filter? With a 170 cfm fan and most filters requiring at least 220 cfm or so fan, it is hard for me to see where you are exchanging much air at all...

What do you have that is 2.5"? You're not trying to exhaust with a single 2.5 inch hole are you? If so, that is not nearly big enough.

When running extension cords, make sure that you are running a large enough gauge cord.

The intake holes are 2.5" diameter. My exhaust seems very powerful. It is 4". It seems as if it draws out a lot of air.It is also worth mentioning that the air that it draws out does not seem hot, or warm. Holding a sheet of paper up in front of it, with the door closed, the paper is completely horizonal, with ripples of air making it flap like a strong breeze.

one thing i notice about your setup is the exhaust and intakes.

it looks like your exhausting out, then the intakes are sucking th ehot air right back in.

Hot air rises, is my logic behind this... As it's expelled, it goes outward, and upward. Where as my intakes are sucking straight from the floor, where the air is cool. I can take temperature readings if it becomes necessary.


-nasty

 

[Jericho]

Hot air does rise but if there is suction nearby it will be drawn towards it.

The way i see it is if your fan was strong enough it should at least tighten up that ducting a little when the fan is on.

To block light coming through the intake holes you can use a piece of cardboard cut into a shape that makes it slant off the door, the paint inside matt black and stick it over the wholes. This way light wont get in through there.

I would still move your output hole higher and get a better fan. That should solve your problems straight away.