Question about male plants

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First off, the pots are rather small--I don't think they are even a gal. Autos seem to do best in taller containers.

I think you have both nutrient burn and pH problems. You have fed your plant a bunch of different nutrients over its short life, so it is hard to try and diagnose problems from prior with feed that may or may not have been good (I know nothing about the products you used). When did you start to feed the Terra Flores? Why are you adding phosphorus plus? Are you feeding with every watering?
 
The Hemp Goddess said:
First off, the pots are rather small--I don't think they are even a gal. Autos seem to do best in taller containers.

I think you have both nutrient burn and pH problems. You have fed your plant a bunch of different nutrients over its short life, so it is hard to try and diagnose problems from prior with feed that may or may not have been good (I know nothing about the products you used). When did you start to feed the Terra Flores? Why are you adding phosphorus plus? Are you feeding with every watering?

I bought a better ph meter and my tap water seems to be 7.5 so I have been adding some ph down to bring it to 6.5.
I took sunakard's advice to take turns between watering/feeding and plain watering. I do tend to think that I have been overfeeding, but also that the ph has been too high. I have no idea what the soil ph is.
Do you think that it also has light burn on the closeup of the sativa plant?
 
yes the tiny yellow tips and i believe the big yellow chunk there are from nute burn, and i also believe the tips curling under is also over feeding, when you over water the leaves taco up like a canoe. and i believe the last pic of the top looks like a light burn and/or wind burn, the pistils should orange evenly, when the tips are burnt like that your lights are too close, lower the plants or raise the lights a fuzz, where they are now may not seem hot persay but its too hot for them, so give em a few more inches between the top and light. also looks like your fan could be tilted up slightly to help move the warm air below the light, looks as if its blowing down on the pots and not tops of plants/bottom of lights.
and a question, what yah got goin down below?
 
sunakard2000 said:
yes the tiny yellow tips and i believe the big yellow chunk there are from nute burn, and i also believe the tips curling under is also over feeding, when you over water the leaves taco up like a canoe. and i believe the last pic of the top looks like a light burn and/or wind burn, the pistils should orange evenly, when the tips are burnt like that your lights are too close, lower the plants or raise the lights a fuzz, where they are now may not seem hot persay but its too hot for them, so give em a few more inches between the top and light. also looks like your fan could be tilted up slightly to help move the warm air below the light, looks as if its blowing down on the pots and not tops of plants/bottom of lights.
and a question, what yah got goin down below?
Thanks. I'll raise the light and reposition the fan.
I am going to just use water every other watering and see if that helps.
The stuff below are herbs. I am growing some chives and coriander for my wife and the shaded area below the pot plants seems to be fine for them.
 
Ph, overfert problem


They will be root bound by finish, I would repot and let them finish loner

JMO
 
trillions of atoms said:
Ph, overfert problem
They will be root bound by finish, I would repot and let them finish loner
JMO
Thanks. I thought that repotting a flowering auto would be too stressful.
When you said, let them finish loner (did you mean longer?), does that mean that if I repot them they might go back to veg and flower later again or just take longer to produce buds because they will grow bigger and make more?
I would be open to repotting the smallest one if it was not going to kill it or turn it into a male.
 
Re-potting is not as stressful as staying root bound. The more room you have for the tap root the taller and healthier the plant will be. I have grown Autos,,and they like room from the get-go. Re-pot them as soon as you can. They will be fine.
 
Yes... Longer.

Sorry my autocorrect is set to auto co-wrong


Repot gently, it's not brain surgery
 
lol what they said, repot to something bigger with more depth and a bit more width since your transplanting to a new home, as they said the roots need room to stretch out, by transplanting you wont cause the plant to reveg, autos will NEVER reveg its not in their genetics, only photo periods can be reveged because flowering is induced by light schedule NOT maturity like autos, they will how ever take a break so to speak, it may or may not be a noticable difference in day to day growth but they will redistribute more energy to root growth rather then flowering, they will still be flowering and growing just slower for a little while until they get comfey and situated in their new larger home, they should infact get larger too after they establish new roots, bigger then they would get in their present containers, be it possibly not by much because they are autos and prefer a tall container from the get go but it should help them finish much healthier then they would without the repot.
 
I repotted the smallest plant into a tall clay pot that is about one gallon and it did not appear to suffer any problems.
The other two are already pretty far along so I will finish them off as is and then use some tall pots that are 7.5 L (about 2 gallons) for the next time.
I finally started seeing the microscopic trics starting to develop around the bus sites.
The two plants keep showing the yellowed and curled tips on many leaves. I have been watering them with plain water at ph 6.5-6.7, and the only nutrients in the feeding water are the Canna Terra Flores and a drop of super vit. I was hoping to flush the soil out a bit with the regular water and then return to the feeding every other watering.
One thing that I did mess around with was the water ph.
I had a crap ph meter stick that was all wrong. I bought a better meter and calibrated it and discovered that my tap water is about 7.5.
I immediately started using ph down to bring the tap water with the nutrients in it down to 6.5-6.7 and used that.
Then I read that you should only change the ph very gradually- so there's yet another mistake that I made raising my first crop. (This is like raising children- you always mess up the first few until you start to understand the little rug rats, but you always love them. Still, I don't want to love them to death.)
Could the sudden ph change account for any of the leaf problems? Is there anything I can do to alter their nutrients at this point to help them out? Is the soil so saturated with old nutrients that I should just use water for the time being?
I also see that the largest fan leaves- they have no buds on their stems- tend to turn lighter green while the small leaves around the buds are darker green.
The large fan leaves are covering several bud sites.
Should I be cutting away the large leaves to expose the small leaves and buds to more light, or are the leaves important for the plant's health and photosynthesis?
I can post a couple of photos of the leaves again.
Thanks again for the advice.
 
Bud sites do not need light. Do not trim the large fan leaves off.
 
NO IMO you should never trim any leaves of once you have put the plant into flowering. Those big beautiful leaves are where the energy for bud growth is made
 
sunakard2000 said:
well first off pH isnt something to worry about with ORGANIC soils, as they have beneficial life and other ammendments that naturaly balance pH so you dont have to, soil-less mediums and hydro systems need to pH their water/nute solution before feedings.

ok posting pictures, when posting a reply click the go advanced button, there is then a paperclip button at the top of the text box you type in, click it and it will pop up a window to search for attachments to upload from your comp, you may have to resize the pics first inorder for them to fit the required size for the forums, not that hard to figure out using paint, i simply take my pics which are always slightly larger then required so i scale down to 75% orginal size and it always fits the req size.

uhmm lets see next item for discussion... you said your red/green color blind well that blows big time especially with this plant that shows shades of green and possibly red or orangeish hues.
ok so most likely again without pics hard to say but yellowing tips defently means over feeding, the tips are burning from too strong of ferts, basicialy they cant take up all the food your giving them and the yellowing tips are like your pants buttons exploding off after eating way too much food... lol so back off the nutes slightly, also as for the shades of green, for you being color blind this part sucks, basically leaves are green, lol duh, but if the leaves are a DARK green with yellowed tips the plant has an abundence of nitrogen as well as too strong of nutes, if the leaves are new growth they will always start out a light green and darken with age, also if the leaves are developed (not new growth) and it begins to lighten in color and slightly yellow around the veins of the leaves youve got a deficiency of nitrogen thus saying either you are underfeeding (and the yellow burnt tips debunk this idea) or your over feeding and the plant has locked out nitrogen due to too strong of nutes for a prolonged period of time or unbalanced pH thus locking nitrogen out from being avaliable for consumption. again as you can see from just variations of green without pics its like spitting into the wind as THG said. also what nutes are you feeding her and how much per gal of water? are you following the instructions on the nutrients? sldo your soil you said it was a compost soil... is it organic? meaning no added slow release chemical nutes in the soil and since its compost ill take a stab in the dark and say there is a good chance that there are some kind of bacteria and/or fungi in the soil, these are the beneficials that make organic growing so awesome, they do all the digestion of nutrients so the plants can take in the nutes much easier, they also help with pH balance, and should note that chemical nutes will kill the beneficial life in the soil. and im assuming your using some sort of chemical nute, and i PRAY its NOT Miracle Grow...

you may also want to look into a few upgrades, those cfl bulbs are going to kill yah, they are far more expensive to run then a 4ft 4 or 6 bulb T5 High Output fixture and will also put out less heat. id also get that fan thats blowing on the plants out and replace it with an oscillating fan, that way there are no dead pockets of stale air not being moved around.

ooh and the curling of the leaf tips... is it just the tips or are the whole leaves curling up like a taco? tacoing is a sign of over watering. also i forgot to mention since you are watering every day since they are in such small pots you dont have to add nutes in with EVERY watering, make it every other watering and use just plain water inbetween nutes.



A few things to say to this... first...PH is important in all mediums. If your not running dolomite lime..have no buffer in the soil and feed with a high or low ph solution you WILL have issues.

This is a gross understatement.


I didnt read all the way through your post but leaves tacoing up does NOT tell a sign of overwatering...drooping yes.

taco up us to much intensity...taco down (claw) or sagging leaves is over nute with dark green color (N mostly) or ph swing in hydro.

when you water make sure you ph everything even if tgere are no nutes in the solution.


A properly active organic mix will help buffer but nature aint use to the high or low ph of tap water...hardness is a whole nother can of worms.


if you dont have vigorous neon green new growth you got underlying issues.


not all chemical fert solutions kill microbes ....a hot mix yes.
 
Where could a person order a 30 power microscope
 
I used to get them from Radio Shack...are they still around?
 

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