My first plant(2)

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if the plant has been exposed to both a flowering and veg cycle lighting at any point in it's life, it may become confused about what it's supposed to be doing and exhibit characteristics of both growth patterns simultaneously for awhile . . . it may be possible that it never fully "straightens out"
 
I've been down with a hard drive failure for a while and had to find my win 7 disk to do an install on the new HDD.

Anyways I've had somewhat of a problem with my plants. On the bigger sativa it looks like there's heat stress but in the middle leaves of the plant. They started getting this way after I noticed a N deficiency and I fed 3/4th strength nutes and it recovered in about 16hrs. Then the next day I noticed this burn look, the rest of the leaves show no sign of nute burn at all.

On the Indica plant I'm wondering why the leaves havent started popping more "fingers" out the most I've found is three and then some are just single leaves. It's like this scattered through out the plant not sure why; also there seems to be some weird spotting that looks like a pest eating away at the plant but it hasnt spread to the other plant, and I havent found any actual bugs in the plant.

The first picture is what the sativa plant's inner leaves are doing. The last two is the indica plant.

The reflective board stuff is just to help the floor stay clean and I put the extra I had against the wall just for getting it out of the way.

Sativa 1.jpg


Sative 2.jpg


Indica 1.jpg


Indica 2.jpg


Indica Leaf.jpg
 
4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.

possibility?

OR maybe you added too much N?


6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or
insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.

good luck! where da pros at?
sMACk
 
The Silver Bullet Special said:
The reflective board stuff is just to help the floor stay clean and I put the extra I had against the wall just for getting it out of the way.

You do not want reflective material on the floor of your grow space. It is detrimental to plant growth to receive light from underneath. It confuses the plant as in nature, the underside of leaves do not receive light.

Keep in mind that different plants have different feeding requirements. Mandala strains cannot tolerate as high a ppm as many other strains, however I have found they tend to uptake more water/nute solution than the strains that require a higher ppm. This can be one of the problems with running multiple strains--you can have multiple nutrient requirements.
 
THG-
What about the reflective floor of tents? I know mine has shiny on the floor. I've never seen anyone cover it up.

Curious.
 
So what I have is because too much nutes? And what about the weird leaf numbers from the indica leaning plant; any clue on that one? I read that it may be from a plant revegging?

Tasty, that's the reason why I thought it wouldnt hurt the plants with the reflective foam board but i'll get a drop cloth or some sheet plastic to put down.
 
I'm gonna flip them when I get my hps and ventillation set up... financial problems have come up recently and I havent been able to get the stuff as fast as I had hoped... these plants are going to be huge at harvest if they stay alive.... I'm hoping to have everything set up in 2-3 weeks =/
 
I plan to veg for another week or 2 and my plants are over 3 feet tall now lol. Too me that is pretty big. Probably as big as yours.
 
My plants are probably 2-2.5 ft; from what I've read plants can double or tripple in size from stretch in flower? Im hoping that's wrong house or i'll have to do some major tying down. That of course is strain dependent how mich stretch you get in flower.
 
Since I've been putting off buying a ph meter until I can get that put in with my HPS order; I put 2 tablespoons of lime on top of the soil to help with PH problems if there would be any... is that enough to help balance it?

What ph pen do you guys recommend to get and about how much was it? I've seen some anywhere from $40-$70 but no clue on the quality. Should I also buy calibration fluid?

Also after I have mixed together my nutes in a one gallon jug fo spring water from the store; how long should I let the water sit? I have been just the 3 parts over a 15 minute period(5 minute wait in between each part micro,then grow, then bloom) then shaking the gallon jug up and feeding them. So far my feeding strength has been 1/2teaspoon of each per gallon.
 
At the size your plants are, I would be giving them 2t micro, 3t grow, and 1t bloom per gallon of water. When you get to flowering, it will be 1t grow and 3t bloom. I always allow the nutes to sit for 12-24 hours before I use them to give the nutes time to buffer the water.

You will need calibration fluids with your pH meter.
 
Hmm... so then my problem is either a lockout or not enough nutes :confused2: ,though, the leaves look more burnt than anything. I'm guessing since I dont really let the nutes buffer for any time at all. The leaves haven't gotten any worse since I uploaded those pics I have just been watering.

Here is just a pic out of the closet just for an update. This is my favorite plant out of the three I have. The other sativa has pretty much stopped growing anything at all, which I'm guessing it's because the nute levels have been just enough to keep it alive.

Also how often should I feed I know it depends on the plant but should I wait to see growth slow down before feeding; or just make it a regular schedule like water twice then feed, maybe every other watering?

Sativa bush.jpg
 
Okay so I upped the nutes, been feeding every two waterings. I'm watering every other day. Heres a new little deficiency that I'm thinking cal/mag deficiency? What do you guys think? If so how much per gal should I add and would I let this sit and buffer like the other nutes?

At this point in time I really have no clue when I'm going to be able to flower these, good thing they're only bag seeds and good practice :icon_smile:

Calmag1.jpg


Calmag2.jpg
 
Oh also another question... When I watered my plants tonight I've noticed the water takes increasingly longer to seep down into the soil and it seems like there are roots just everywhere in the post for the small amount of dirt the water moves away from the roots. I wonder if I should transplant now or keep them in 3 gal.

Is the slow water drainage a sign of starting to be root bound or just from the soil compacting over time?
 
its hard to tell from the sideways closeups, but it looks like them getting rootbound is a good possibility...


sMACk
 
It looks like you are having multiple problems there. Some leaf tip burning, which would appear to be too much nute, then some necrosis along the leaf margins could be a little magnesium, potassium or manganese deficiency. You also said that they seem to have stopped growing. More often than not when you get multiple issues like this (which yours aren not too bad yet) it means that you are having PH out of proper alignment for full nute uptake. When the PH is off, it will make all kinds of things happen. Also, nutrient toxicity can cause the wacky multi-symptom issues, but I don't think that is what you have as you have been under feeding them and haven't been able to check PH. I fully believe Your problem is all linked to PH and feeding level.

With any of my plants, when I start them out at seedling, they get no nutes until I see the little seed leaves(cotyledons) yellowing and/or the regular leaves start yellowing. Then I introduce a light feeding of 200-300ppm on a TDS meter. After a week, I increase the nutrients to 300-500ppm depending on the growth of the plants.(if they take off growing, increase nutes more). I watch the plants to see how they are growing. If it is vigorous growth then I continue to increase the nutes by 200-300ppm each week until I get to about 600-900ppm depending on the plant strain or if I start seeing nute burn. Some plant strains are absolute nute hogs like my BBP :)

For anyone reading this who is considering growing and not sure about going soil(organic nutrients) or chemical nutrients(soil, soilless, or hydro) You have to get a quality PH meter and TDS meter for growing with chemical nutrients or you will have problems. If you don't have the money for these meters then you should stay with organic soil as you don't need the meters for that style.

I'm not ragging on you SBS, that is just for any nubies look to learn from your mistakes. :)
 
I've got the money for them, I was just putting that off until I could order my HPS and everything else I need. What brands for PH and TDS meter do you recommend?

I also picked up two 5 gallon buckets, some potting soil, and perlite for drainage,from home depot. I Drilled 3/4th inch holes for drainage 5 holes in the bottom and 4 holes in the side. Will that be enough for good drainage.

When transplanting do I let the root ball get sorta dry so it stays together or should it be freshly watered before transplant?

The leaf burning at the tips was because I accidentally let the plants grow up to the bulbs and didnt get the light raised fast enough lol. I'll throw up some full plant pics tonight.


I also have lime would I still need to PH adjust the water if I added lime to the soil, and how much lime pr 5 gallon bucket do you think?
 
I just got my bluelab combo meter for a great price (170.00) - and LOVE, LOVE it.
Yesterday was my first time using it to feed and it cut my time in half and I feel confident for the first time that they got what I intended.
My cheap pen style needed calibration every time and by halfway through grow was totally unreliable. PITA.
If you want link to vendor- PM me.
 

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