More cal mag?

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Calcium phosphorus manganese boron zinc …

They all have similar deficient appearances. I would always start with GH micro at 5ml a gallon and see what that does.
EF0C6B0F-88E1-40CF-98D5-D542A923FDAE.jpeg
 
I’m betting it is too Pute.
Maybe I could run a low PH water in the plant till I got enough runoff to check it. It doesn’t need water yet but I may be able to get a little urine test from her… Do you think it’s worth it? Cause I don’t know what to do if it’s high excepts trying low PH water to try and lower it…
 
Maybe I could run a low PH water in the plant till I got enough runoff to check it. It doesn’t need water yet but I may be able to get a little urine test from her… Do you think it’s worth it? Cause I don’t know what to do if it’s high excepts trying low PH water to try and lower it…
Mycos WP oughta sort out most soil ph problems in a few days but if your soil is aerated and full of pearlite and then you can get a pee test from her
 
Mycos WP oughta sort out most soil ph problems in a few days but if your soil is aerated and full of pearlite and then you can get a pee test from her
I just looked it up. It says it’s for up to early flower stage. I’m over the mid point now but will remember this in the future. I get one or two plants a grow that want to act up and seem to have a nute block Or for some reason want to drink slow. When I inspected all the roots after last grow they all looked the same to me. I was expecting to see some root rot or discoloration but I didn’t see any difference. There is a product FF has (I will have to lookup the name) that says it helps prevent nute lock. I need to do some reading on it. I think I will add a bit more perlight to my next transplant too. I don’t like seeing my plants with ugly leaves at only the end of week 6
 
Hi ! Funny, I was using Fox Farm trio and had very similar problems mid flower. I won't be using Fox Farm this grow, my bet was a deficiency in macro/microtrients. Its tough to know for sure though because leaves do start to yellow and change a bit during late flower.

I wound up having a pretty good harvest anyway. I'll try Dyna-Grow instead of Fox Farm next grow. Fox farm isn't good about letting you know what nutrients are in the trio (other than NPK) so its difficult to fix deficiencies.

You actually helped when I asked the same question, do I need more cal mag and now we've swapped places ! This is an early pic, the yellowing and brown spread out to many leaves later in the grow. This is when it started.

last thing, I had to go very easy with tiger bloom, I could see my leaf tips and nutrient burn starting at half dosages of TB.....I think too much Tiger Bloom might cause a lockout. (I used 1/4-1/2 strength Fox Farms fee schedule.) Big Bloom never caused problems for me. 1/2 to full dose

PH 6.2 in, run-off PH 6.0


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Hi ! Funny, I was using Fox Farm trio and had very similar problems mid flower. I won't be using Fox Farm this grow, my bet was a deficiency in macro/microtrients. Its tough to know for sure though because leaves do start to yellow and change a bit during late flower.

I wound up having a pretty good harvest anyway. I'll try Dyna-Grow instead of Fox Farm next grow. Fox farm isn't good about letting you know what nutrients are in the trio (other than NPK) so its difficult to fix deficiencies.

You actually helped when I asked the same question, do I need more cal mag and now we've swapped places ! This is an early pic, the yellowing and brown spread out to many leaves later in the grow. This is when it started.

PH 6.2 in, run-off PH 6.0


View attachment 294817
I’ve been giving her regular calmag. This one plant just seems to be a shaggy looking thing. I’ve had good luck so far with FF and feel this is something maybe I did like not enough perlite or something else. I’m still learning everyday.
 
I’ve been giving her regular calmag. This one plant just seems to be a shaggy looking thing. I’ve had good luck so far with FF and feel this is something maybe I did like not enough perlite or something else. I’m still learning everyday.

I'm using Cal mag too, but have read that too much can be a very bad thing. I use it, but don't over do it... Cal mag can also throw off your PH and from what I've read can disturb nutrient intake from feedings.

Like anything, I think the key is "moderation".... At least I am learning that moderation is key with nutrients. Better to underfeed than to over feed. Lockout and nutrient burn are bad making your nutrients pretty much worthless.....
 
I just looked it up. It says it’s for up to early flower stage. I’m over the mid point now but will remember this in the future. I get one or two plants a grow that want to act up and seem to have a nute block Or for some reason want to drink slow. When I inspected all the roots after last grow they all looked the same to me. I was expecting to see some root rot or discoloration but I didn’t see any difference. There is a product FF has (I will have to lookup the name) that says it helps prevent nute lock. I need to do some reading on it. I think I will add a bit more perlight to my next transplant too. I don’t like seeing my plants with ugly leaves at only the end of week 6
I’ve used it for a few years now in hydro and I run it to week 7/10…it’s just bacteria that help break down your nutes I can’t see an issue running it to the end of flower. I did notice leaf rip burn if I run it to the very end, so I stop 3 weeks before the end. They don’t need as much food after the majority of calyxes have swollen up.
 
Source: Bulgarian Academy of Sciences White Paper.



The risk of nutrient lockout increases if the pH drifts outside this optimal range.


That’s because every nutrient has a “favorite” or optimal range. For most plants the optimal range is pH 5.5-6.3, where all nutrients are sufficiently absorbed (Figure 1) and nutrient deficiencies will not be an issue.

If the pH falls too far above or below this “sweet spot,” certain nutrients may be preferred by plants over others.

For instance, at pH 5, iron and manganese are readily absorbed while calcium and magnesium are not. Absorption of calcium and magnesium are significantly reduced at pH 5 and below; the plant roots cannot absorb them easily and the plant is highly likely to suffer calcium and magnesium deficiencies.



moar reading here————————> Nutrient Lockout: What It Is and How To Prevent It! -
 
subbie, I see the same thing on my plants here and there, no rhyme or reason that I can attribute it to...mine isn't usually in flower or that close to the bud itself but a fan leaf on a branch...the flowers you have look great and will surely finish fine...I'm one of the ones that flush, that's just how I roll...as some of the guys mentioned, pH is a big consideration...
 
subbie, I see the same thing on my plants here and there, no rhyme or reason that I can attribute it to...mine isn't usually in flower or that close to the bud itself but a fan leaf on a branch...the flowers you have look great and will surely finish fine...I'm one of the ones that flush, that's just how I roll...as some of the guys mentioned, pH is a big consideration...
I know. I’m trying to understand what I may be doing to bring the PH up in some of the plants which I’m sure it will up be when I check it tomorrow. Maybe I should only feed the calmag when I’m not doing other nutes. Could be I’m not letting my water sit to get chlorine or whatever the city puts in it. The water comes out of my kitchen sink at just over 6.5 sometimes 6.5 dead on and less than 200 ppm too I usually mix the nutes in one at a time, then the calMag then put it right on the plants. Most of the plants respond well just one this grow doing this color thing and two my last grow which quit drinking water for some reason I believe it was PH too. Thanks for chiming in boo.
 

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