I flunked decarbing!

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according to this table, cbd vape temp is lower. i know i can't believe everything i find on the internet though. i don't really trust that my oven is super accurate either. it just looks to me like <350 but >284 is where acid conversions take place but before the point where compounds we like are vaporized.View attachment 251388
Can you send me a link to where you got this? I tried to enlarge it so I could read it, but no dice... Sorry this is so long for a response, hope your still on the channel? Dan
 
Thanks for the immediate response @WeedHopper , though I'm looking for something that will guide me to what stage of decarbing some older cured MJ I have is also. I want to make sure that one: I'm not trying to decarb MJ that's already to far gone, or that doesn't need any or as much as freshly cured MJ would need decarbing as age has already done the oxidation? Hope you're following my rational, thanks. Dan
 
That said, as old as your plant material is, it is likely already decarbed to a large degree. Age will also cause decarboxylation, not just heat. Hopefully, anything that has not decarbed due to age will decarb during the process of making your infusions such as marijuana butter or marijuana oil and in the process of cooking your recipes if thats what you are going to do.
 
That said, as old as your plant material is, it is likely already decarbed to a large degree. Age will also cause decarboxylation, not just heat. Hopefully, anything that has not decarbed due to age will decarb during the process of making your infusions such as marijuana butter or marijuana oil and in the process of cooking your recipes if thats what you are going to do.
Yes, mostly what I'm doing is either using a coconut oil to infuse the THC, via a magic butter maker, but never quite knowing what/how much extra if any decarbing to include. That's why I was interested in some way of determining THC content
 
Yes, mostly what I'm doing is either using a coconut oil to infuse the THC, via a magic butter maker, but never quite knowing what/how much extra if any decarbing to include. That's why I was interested in some way of determining THC content
There are labs that can test it for you if you are in legal state
A friend who is on top of these things has done the at home tests and had a very hard time getting accurate readings .
He also says old weed will break down naturally if left in the dark long enough (cool and dry) How old is this so called weed?
 
A few things he says , decarb weed at 240F for 40 mins to activate it

've run tests on material as much as 3 years old, kept in various ways, freezer, jars, plastic bag and such and there is always still enough THCA to need decarbing. 1 year was only 3% conversion in a humidity controlled container. 1 year warehoused was almost 50% but that still needs decarbing and 3 year old fan leaf kept in a bucket under the porch only had a third converted. .

It's going to depend on the effects you're looking for. A higher level of THCA is often responsible for the panic attacks and anxiety that a lot of people experience with edibles so that plays a factor in whether you want to use partially decarbed material whether medical or recreational.


In the earlier days of my learning curve I was using some sugar trim and popcorn buds that started out for me about a year old and I had a lot of it. I thought at the time that aging for that long would have done the job so I didn't decarb any of it and I thought that it was excellent, except......


When I would use it to make high dose edibles for pain a lot of people were experiencing the "hold on for dear life until it goes away" scenario when using them. Now I know the reason why and it explains a lot. The unconverted THCA creates an "edge" for Sativas and reduces the couchlock in Indicas, affecting mainly the physical aspects of each. I know people, and I'm one, that likes a little edge to a Sativa dominant strain so that it works like a stimulant, a cup of coffee or tea for instance, and it gets them up and going but for others, that little bit of THCA will trigger those undesirable effects. Leaving THCA behind in Indica dominants will still help with pain and other things but the couchlock is diminished.


With aged material, many of the other cannabinoids have developed by that time and it's really only the THCA/THC conversion that's needed. Whether being used for medical or recreational, it's still the same principal but ultimately that decision will come down to you. Try a small amount of your 2yr old material in 2 experiments, one decarbed and the other not, and then decide. You may like both but in different ways.
[IMG]
 
A few things he says , decarb weed at 240F for 40 mins to activate it

've run tests on material as much as 3 years old, kept in various ways, freezer, jars, plastic bag and such and there is always still enough THCA to need decarbing. 1 year was only 3% conversion in a humidity controlled container. 1 year warehoused was almost 50% but that still needs decarbing and 3 year old fan leaf kept in a bucket under the porch only had a third converted. .

It's going to depend on the effects you're looking for. A higher level of THCA is often responsible for the panic attacks and anxiety that a lot of people experience with edibles so that plays a factor in whether you want to use partially decarbed material whether medical or recreational.


In the earlier days of my learning curve I was using some sugar trim and popcorn buds that started out for me about a year old and I had a lot of it. I thought at the time that aging for that long would have done the job so I didn't decarb any of it and I thought that it was excellent, except......


When I would use it to make high dose edibles for pain a lot of people were experiencing the "hold on for dear life until it goes away" scenario when using them. Now I know the reason why and it explains a lot. The unconverted THCA creates an "edge" for Sativas and reduces the couchlock in Indicas, affecting mainly the physical aspects of each. I know people, and I'm one, that likes a little edge to a Sativa dominant strain so that it works like a stimulant, a cup of coffee or tea for instance, and it gets them up and going but for others, that little bit of THCA will trigger those undesirable effects. Leaving THCA behind in Indica dominants will still help with pain and other things but the couchlock is diminished.


With aged material, many of the other cannabinoids have developed by that time and it's really only the THCA/THC conversion that's needed. Whether being used for medical or recreational, it's still the same principal but ultimately that decision will come down to you. Try a small amount of your 2yr old material in 2 experiments, one decarbed and the other not, and then decide. You may like both but in different ways.
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My so "called weed" carbon dates back to 2019, for one CV vault and then I've got one from 2020. All buds, I don't save anything else. Lol :cool: PS, these are all indica's or at least dominantly indica's. Under my scope the trichomes are all golden, that's what got me wondering...
 
My so "called weed" carbon dates back to 2019, for one CV vault and then I've got one from 2020. All buds, I don't save anything else. Lol :cool: PS, these are all indica's or at least dominantly indica's. Under my scope the trichomes are all golden, that's what got me wondering...
I would decarb myself, I make tinctures and infuse it into oils for pain creams and such
 
My so "called weed" carbon dates back to 2019, for one CV vault and then I've got one from 2020. All buds, I don't save anything else. Lol :cool: PS, these are all indica's or at least dominantly indica's. Under my scope the trichomes are all golden, that's what got me wondering...
Oh no doubt there has been some break down but nowhere near fully decarbed
 
The degree of oxidation is what I'm trying to figure out. That's why the questions about the testing and TLC...
Very hard to determine without a controlled environment testing, over a period of time ie: a few years.
 
I would hate to purchase something like the MyDx unit which now with the accoutrements adds up to $950.00 +-, but still would like to know how best to appropriately decarb my buds before either infusing into coconut oil or just making dry caps…
 
I would hate to purchase something like the MyDx unit which now with the accoutrements adds up to $950.00 +-, but still would like to know how best to appropriately decarb my buds before either infusing into coconut oil or just making dry caps…
Do small amounts only
Start with 7 grams and do full decarb 240F 40 mins and do another at 200F 20mins
see if you notice any difference / and work from there .
I use everclear 190 proof to cold wash my flowers after it has all been in freezer 24 hrs , This is one way to make a tincture that can be placed under tongue and absorb sublingually.
 
Read This

DECARBOXYLATION:

Bake 7g herbs @ 240F for 40 minutes. If using seeded pot, cleaned weight should equal 7 grams.


FREEZE:
Place the decarbed 7g herbs in sealed Mason jar into the freezer for 24 hours.
Also place a pint of Everclear or other 190+ proof alcohol in freezer for 24 hours.
After 24 hours add 90ml/3fl oz to a Mason jar with herbals. Shake aggressively for 5 minutes.
Place back in freezer for 2 hours and then shake again for another 5 minutes.

1. Using a mesh coffee filter or cheesecloth, clean t-shirt, pantyhose or other fine weave, clean material, place in or line a funnel and pour the solution through it into a clean container and press using a silicone spatula or other utensil. Place the pressed plant material back into the jar for a rinse with fresh, cold alcohol. The jar of material does not have to go back into the freezer. After straining through the initial filter, set it aside until the 2nd run, the rinse, is complete.

2). The 2nd run can be done with no further waiting since it is only a rinse but my test studies have shown that you increase your potency by 25-30%. Using 3fl oz of fresh, freezing cold alcohol, pour it into the jar of material and shake for five minutes. Strain your material as well as possible then add the alcohol solution to the first run solution.

If you don't have a mesh coffee filter or a way to press it, place a square of cheesecloth or other material over your fresh container, being sure to allow enough on each side to fold over the ball. After you've strained the weed, you can dispose of the leftovers as you see fit. If you don't have a press, cut the cheesecloth large enough so that you can pull the corners together and use a wooden spoon handle to wrap them around and then twist. You don't have to squeeze like crazy because the alcohol drains well.

3. Place a paper coffee filter in a funnel or other setup. There are examples in the video and picture guides. Pour your solution into the filter until it's full. Keep filling it until it all filters through. You might have to move the filter around to find fresh spots in the filters. Those husks really gum it up but it's worth the time. You'll get a nice clear Green/Gold Dragon. Of course, you can always filter it again if you're a perfectionist.

REDUCE

Now we're ready for the main event, concentrating the extraction by reduction of the alcohol.

1. Set up your double boiler configuration away from flame or other open heat sources. Use a fan for ventilation. If using an electric range, be sure your vent fan is on high. The more ventilation the better. While there won't be the concentration of vapors there would be for larger quantities, there's still enough to cause a flash fire if not careful.

2. Have the heat source for your double boilers at a level that causes a gentle boil in the water. If you're using a crockpot where the water may not boil, just put it as high as you can. If you use an electric rice cooker that only has one temperature, just keep an eye on it so it doesn't go beyond the desired level. If you don't have a double boiler set up, air evaporation will work, just slower

* If at all possible, your upper chamber(bowl) of the double bowler should fit snuggly in the lower portion a few inches above the water line. This is to prevent loss of steam and therefore water. If it's a loose fit, keep an eye on the water level and add more as needed.

3. Measure your combined haul from both runs. If you don't have a measuring device, you can mark a spot halfway down your jar and use that as your guide. As your tincture reduces, you can keep track of the level easier.

4. Add your dilute GD to the upper chamber/water bath and reduce it by half of the recovered volume. Up to 1/2 ounce will be lost with each run due to absorption and loss. Alcohol boils at a much lower temperature than water and thus will not damage the thc. Depending on your heat source, your solution may bubble a little bit, a rolling boil, or just swirls. What you want at minimum are the swirls. That shows there is action.

5. Finally, this recipe is designed to give you approximately 3 fluid ounces of concentrated Green/Gold Dragon tincture. So for the last step, reduce your solution by half, or down to your goal volume, which should be about 3 fl.oz for this size batch for beginners and bottle it. It is now officially ready to sample. There is a reduction guide for potency level a little further along.

And there you have it. I've tried to make the actual steps as simple yet concise as possible. And as stated previously, this recipe is pretty much designed for the novice, the beginner. It does not require a lot of marijuana that could be lost, anything is possible so it could happen. I don't advocate making this or any other cannabis product for the first time with your emergency stash. You don't have to have expensive pot or even buds. I want everyone to be comfortable within themselves with trying this.

Edit: Along the way between this written guide and the video I changed the final reduction from 3oz to 2oz. This increases the strength by about 1/3. When I originally wrote this the only edibles and tinctures were the DIY variety which naturally limited potency levels and just about everyone was a beginner. Once dispensaries started to spread with access to higher concentrated products, those coming to use this guide were wanting, and needing, higher strength products. So, we now reduce to 2oz from this 7g guide instead of 3oz.
 

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