Don't waste your time vegging a plant into the screen on a scrog. Let the screen grow along with the plant.
So I've done a lot of scrogs in the past. One of the biggest issues I had with it was the fact the plant is locked in under the screen. This can be a mess with any issues like pests or mildews. You need the ability to move plants when needed. These floaters allow that to happen.
Another benefit is it's faster than a normal framed scrog. No waiting on the plant to fill the screen. Just place it and run with it.
Today I'm using common wire fencing cut into 20"x21" squares to control plants and make them give me all they have to offer. The squares on the screen are 2"x3". I'd not suggest any smaller.
Setup for a floater begins in the early stages. I train my young plants secondary growth outwards in all directions. This provides a nice base for the floater screen.
A normal seed grow..
Flowering clones are a little more beefy...
Once the plant is strong enough to support the screen I place a 12"x12" floater on top to continue training all growth outwards towards the perimeter of the screen.
The floater is centered on top of the plant and I often secure it down in the beginning. Soon the plant will grow into it and then the tie down can be released. This allows the screen to grow with the plant.
Just before they go into the flower tent the training floater is replaced with the standard 20x21 floater. No tie down needed. Just center the screen and shimmy it down into the canopy. Then pull all growth outwards again.
I continue pulling growth under for the first 10days of 12/12. After that I let them go. The floater screen will grow with the plant as it flowers. Supporting it all the way.
There are a few options when it comes to what type canopy your seeking.
The key is training time spent in early flower. If you want a low compact carpet type screen then train the plants under for a solid 2.5-3wks.
If you want a taller more deep canopy then only train under for roughly ten days. This is the option I prefer. I can have all my tall growth on the perimeter while the smaller growth that would have been hidden below can now emerge from the center.
A example above. Notice the canopy of the front plant compared to the one less trained.
Both options are great. The canopy is going to receive full light no matter what so it's a win win either way.
I run 4 floaters in one 4x4 space. Double that for my 4x8. To me each plant should have its own 2x2 space to get the most out of the plant. This method definitely does that.
All 4 of these plants are in different stages of flower and are all different strains. With the floaters I can get away with this freedom of movement.
Since converting to these floaters I've seen my harvests go from 5-6oz a plant to 6-12oz. Productive and mobile. It's a great way to grow and get all you can get from a plant.
One important rule in scrogging. Less is More. Which boils down to give your plant a 2x2 space to grow. She will love it and reward you well.
So I've done a lot of scrogs in the past. One of the biggest issues I had with it was the fact the plant is locked in under the screen. This can be a mess with any issues like pests or mildews. You need the ability to move plants when needed. These floaters allow that to happen.
Another benefit is it's faster than a normal framed scrog. No waiting on the plant to fill the screen. Just place it and run with it.
Today I'm using common wire fencing cut into 20"x21" squares to control plants and make them give me all they have to offer. The squares on the screen are 2"x3". I'd not suggest any smaller.
Setup for a floater begins in the early stages. I train my young plants secondary growth outwards in all directions. This provides a nice base for the floater screen.
A normal seed grow..
Flowering clones are a little more beefy...
Once the plant is strong enough to support the screen I place a 12"x12" floater on top to continue training all growth outwards towards the perimeter of the screen.
The floater is centered on top of the plant and I often secure it down in the beginning. Soon the plant will grow into it and then the tie down can be released. This allows the screen to grow with the plant.
Just before they go into the flower tent the training floater is replaced with the standard 20x21 floater. No tie down needed. Just center the screen and shimmy it down into the canopy. Then pull all growth outwards again.
I continue pulling growth under for the first 10days of 12/12. After that I let them go. The floater screen will grow with the plant as it flowers. Supporting it all the way.
There are a few options when it comes to what type canopy your seeking.
The key is training time spent in early flower. If you want a low compact carpet type screen then train the plants under for a solid 2.5-3wks.
If you want a taller more deep canopy then only train under for roughly ten days. This is the option I prefer. I can have all my tall growth on the perimeter while the smaller growth that would have been hidden below can now emerge from the center.
A example above. Notice the canopy of the front plant compared to the one less trained.
Both options are great. The canopy is going to receive full light no matter what so it's a win win either way.
I run 4 floaters in one 4x4 space. Double that for my 4x8. To me each plant should have its own 2x2 space to get the most out of the plant. This method definitely does that.
All 4 of these plants are in different stages of flower and are all different strains. With the floaters I can get away with this freedom of movement.
Since converting to these floaters I've seen my harvests go from 5-6oz a plant to 6-12oz. Productive and mobile. It's a great way to grow and get all you can get from a plant.
One important rule in scrogging. Less is More. Which boils down to give your plant a 2x2 space to grow. She will love it and reward you well.
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It's a method and I accept that but it's not the only way to get more colas.
