First time grower with red stems/yellow/spotting leaves

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The Silver Bullet Special said:
Hey your drooping problem is from a hot spot... I accidentally moved my plant right next to the reflective foan board I have for a temp setup and it caused it to start doing it... idk with your set up how to fix it. I had to shut my lights off for the night so I can raise the lights and fix some stuff in there and I dont want to damage the plants.

Okay I will reevaluate my setup today and see if I can't fix anything. I am picking up a digital thermometer and humidity reader so I can get a better idea with what is going on within the tent. Also I will try to get some pics uploaded of the grow tent.

Thanks for the info!
 
You really, really, really need more/better light. While I don't think the necrosis has anything to do with the light, you are really underlit and are getting stretch that is only going to get worse. In addition to oscillating fans, you need some kind of exhaust fan. Plants need a continual supply of fresh air all the time time the lights are on for proper photosynthesis--this requires an exhaust fan that can exchange the air in the space at least (IMO) once a minute.
 
The Hemp Goddess said:
You really, really, really need more/better light. While I don't think the necrosis has anything to do with the light, you are really underlit and are getting stretch that is only going to get worse. In addition to oscillating fans, you need some kind of exhaust fan. Plants need a continual supply of fresh air all the time time the lights are on for proper photosynthesis--this requires an exhaust fan that can exchange the air in the space at least (IMO) once a minute.

The lights are being ordered. T5's with a total lumens of 20,000/6 = 3,333 lumens per square foot.

I have a 6 inch booster exhaust fan and two smaller intake fans. (The tent blows up like a balloon with the door closed lol) Right now I am circulating the grow room 6 times a minute.

This morning when I stuck my head in the grow tent it was really humid and "musty" Kind of like after a rain storm. I don't know why it gets so humid in there especially when it's not like that in the house?

I think I may have found the reason... The tent is inside a pretty big closet but the intake and exhaust ports are inside the closet as well. Meaning the exhaust air must be going back into the intake side...?

This is just my theory and I will by making changes later today.

pH is like 7.0-7.2 and I will have temp and humidity readings later today.

I really hope I can figure this out.

(And I added one more light, total of 4 100w FL, now)
 
You do not want your tent to blow up like a balloon--you want negative pressure in there--you want the walls to suck in. You need to be exhausting several times a minute, not just circulating air. The CO2 gets depleted quite quickly--you need to exhaust out old CO2 depleted air and bring in fresh air. Part of the reason that it is getting so humidity is most likely inadequate exhaust. Duct booster fans do not have the power to do what you want. They are not meant to be stand alone fans--they are meant to add a boost to long ducting runs that are vented with large fans. Oscillation fans are meant to move the air around, exhaust fans are meant to exhaust the hot, moisture-ridden, CO2 depleted air out and being in fresh, cooler air.

And, just so you are aware, your lights are not actually 100Ws--you have 100W equivalent lights, a useless number for growing--they are most likely actually around 24 watts and are only putting out about 1500-1600 lumens. Four of those lights will adequately light a space about 1' x 2'. A 400W HPS light would be an excellent choice for that space though.
 
The Hemp Goddess said:
You do not want your tent to blow up like a balloon--you want negative pressure in there--you want the walls to suck in. You need to be exhausting several times a minute, not just circulating air. The CO2 gets depleted quite quickly--you need to exhaust out old CO2 depleted air and bring in fresh air. Part of the reason that it is getting so humidity is most likely inadequate exhaust. Duct booster fans do not have the power to do what you want. They are not meant to be stand alone fans--they are meant to add a boost to long ducting runs that are vented with large fans. Oscillation fans are meant to move the air around, exhaust fans are meant to exhaust the hot, moisture-ridden, CO2 depleted air out and being in fresh, cooler air.

And, just so you are aware, your lights are not actually 100Ws--you have 100W equivalent lights, a useless number for growing--they are most likely actually around 24 watts and are only putting out about 1500-1600 lumens. Four of those lights will adequately light a space about 1' x 2'. A 400W HPS light would be an excellent choice for that space though.

I have my 3 plants under 4 of those lights in a temproary 1'x2' space and they're still not really growing like I would hope for I still havent been able to order my lights yet (gotta love the economy right lol). Since your grow tent is 3x2x6 you have 36 cubic ft of air

hxxp://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/vortex-inch-172-cfm-high-power-inline-fan-p-351.html <- That fan runs at 176CFM(Cubic feet per minute).

If you put it on a speed controller at half power that is only 86cubic feet per minute which it will move roughly 2 times your air per minute. Also running it at half power will make the fan last longer. That should fix your air problem. There is no need for an intake fan because your exhaust will just suck the air in anyways. Don't just exhaust back into the same room or there wont be any fresh air coming into the tent.

I'm exhausting up into my attic and out of the roof vents. If you choose to vent to the attic make sure you expell the air out of the attic or you risk mold! It would be easier to vent out the side of the house and make it what looks like a dryer vent, or maybe into a crawlspace.
 
Well here is the scoop. I met a local grower today and he pretty much said what you guys said. So far I got rid of the intake fans (tent is sucking in a bit with the exhaust fan on). Got a humidity reader and temperature. Temp is at 76 F and humidity is 56%. Also got a liquid pH tester and found out the pH of the distilled water is 5-5.5 :/.

The local grower also told me to start injecting CO2 (since I have the whole setup).

What do you guys think of this so far?
 
You wont need CO2 if your exhaust is fixed. You can't run your ventillation when you do CO2... and you will need stronger light if you choose to do CO2 you will need to step up your lighting alot more than you have now. It's really not necessary for your size grow. What do you mean by "injecting" CO2, it doesnt go into the soil.
 
The exhaust fan is on a timer and shuts off when the CO2 is going in. By injecting I mean injecting into the grow tent, not the soil lol.

So just run the exhaust fan all the time with no inlet air and no CO2? Even when I get the better lights here still done run CO2?

Also, this guy said. run my lights 18/6 for veg and NOT 24? Is this right?
 
You always run an intake but your intake is just a hole for the air to be sucked in from your exhaust. I've only seen people use CO2 on bigger grows WAY bigger than what you or me will have going on. Yes run your exhaust fan 24/7. It's been proven that 18/6 lighting promotes more stretch than 24/0 during veg. You dont need a dark cycle during veg only flowering.
 
Okay thanks a lot! I will do that right now. There is a little whole from where my power cords go into the tent for the lights and fans so I will just use that for an intake. Also, I will keep lights on 24/0. It makes sense to me to do that but then it makes sense to do 18/6 because "that is what nature does." But I will just listen to what you guys say since you have experience I do not... yet, lol.

So the exhaust fan is on. I now have 3 oscillating fans and will make that intake hole. Should be good...

Also, what to do about the pH? Is that low?
 
24/0 allows the plant to grow constantly and fuller in the same amount of time making more future bud sites :). Curious to see how to fix your PH I've ben reading that lime will help balance PH. I just ordered GH3 part nutes and Calmag today for when feeding time comes.

Later down the road if you continue growing you might want to take a look at organic super soil. NV so far has the best soil mix there is from what I've read. His mix if you add enough per pot you should only need to add water the whole grow.
 
I will just leave the lights on 24/0 for now and see how that works. Thanks again!
 
Definitely keep the lights on 24hrs during veg. I know that seems to go against nature but we aren't growing in nature, we are artificially enacting nature within our grow environments, so the same rules don't apply all the time. Experience has shown all who grow MJ indoors that it doesn't need dark time during veg and actually grows better and tighter nodes under 24hrs of light. 18/6 won't hurt but it won't help either, and it will cause the plants to stretch out in search of the light.

The reason that this happens and sooo many people just don't understand this, is because MJ is a high energy plant. It needs a lot of light energy to do its thing. Just like any fruiting trees or plants that produce fruits need a lot of direct sunlight. MJ creates complex compounds within its leaves(THC,CBD) and these compounds take a lot of energy to produce. So the plants have evolved the need for lots-o-light.

If they aren't getting enough light in nature, they will stretch themselves out to get above the competition to get to the light source. If you place several plants together under 1 light source and 1-2 of them are weaker than the others, the stronger ones will choke out the weaker ones by stretching over them to hog up the light. Its evolution, survival of the fittest.

The sun's light is sooo much more intense, encompassing, and invasive than what we can(reasonably) give the plants with artificial light sources. That is why we have to break the rules to allow the plants to get what they need to prevent evolution from taking control of our grows. That is why so many here preach "lumens, lumens!!" The sun puts out about 10,000 lumens per square foot, but in our grows we have found that running (at the very least) 3000 per square foot for 24hrs will suffice for vegging. raising it to about 5000 per sqft for vegging is best(most cost effective) in my opinion for getting the nice rich growth.

Once you are ready to switch to flowering, the plants change gears and really go into chemical production mode and need even more light energy. Now you have a plant that has to have 12hrs of darkness everyday to switch over to flowering but needs more energy than during veg. That is why I bump my lighting up to at least 7000 lumens per sqft. of floor space.

The flip side of all this light that is needed is; just like people who are charging up their daily activities and need more air to breath and cool off, so do the plants. The more light they get the more activity they do, the more "fresh air" they need. I have learned that while CO2 can be very beneficial for larger grows that are very tightly managing the atmosphere of the grow space, for smaller grows, it only adds a complication to the grow that is unneccessary. You have to have good exausting of the heat that builds up from the intense light or everything from plants to equipment suffers. There is plenty of CO2 in the outer atmosphere that you need to bring in to cool the space, so trying to work in extra co2 really doesn't add much benefit to the small grow.

Sorry to go off on a sunlight lecture here :doh: but I hope that it helps you to understand a little more about this really cool hobby that we all so enjoy. There is so much to learn and it is quite fascinating to learn it as we go. Just when you think you got it all down, you learn something new (or more truthfully, something old that you can apply in a new way). :) :) :)
 
I would also recommend forgetting the CO2.

Your pH is actually a little bit high--you want to be running around 6.8.

There are some plants that require a dark period, but marijuana is not one of them. It will grow all the time it has light, air, and nutrients. We are not trying to duplicate nature with indoor grows.
 
Thanks so much for all the info here! Great read!

Gosh I am really up in the air with the CO2. You guys bring really good facts out about it and then I talk to some other people who love it. For a first time grower I think I will just listen to you guys and forget about it for now and focus on other things. I ordered the lights last night and should be here in a week. These lights will put me at about 4,000 lumens per square foot for veg and then I have my 400w HPS setup all ready to go for flowering.

And on the digital pH measuring device it reads about 7.0 and on my liquid test kit it read about 5.5???? I have no idea what to go by. I am using distilled water so should that not be at 7.0????
 
I also picked up a bottle of CALiMAGic and a bottle of Bloom sea minerals. (recommended to me by the local grower. He is actually the guy who works at the local hydro store and has been grower for 20 years. He was like "I am assuming you are growing tomatoes, right?" I looked at him, smiled and said "yeah." haha he knew what was going on and that was when he started telling me about his growing experience.) Anyways, after adding that stuff last night, it seems like the plants really took to it nicely, looking at them this morning. :)

Now the question is... when do I have to start putting in nutes? What is a good thing to start with for a first time grower like me? FF stuff?
 
CO2 had be quite hard to regulate--I just don't think you need the hassle starting out and if you have adequate ventilation, you do not need it.

Is your pH meter calibrated? Test strips are really not accurate at all, however if a meter is not calibrated, it is not either.

I think it is important to know what you are feeding your plants and not just add things because some guy in a grow store talks it up. You generally do not need to add any calcium until you are in flowering. Are you growing organic? Bloom sea minerals (what is that EXACTLY?) sound like an organic product. Chem nutes and oganic nutes are not compatible--the chemicals will generally kill all the beneficials in organic grows.
 
Start feeding your plants when you see a sign of a deficiency.... FFOF will feed roughly for 3-4 weeks depending on the strain.

Hey Hemp, I got my plants in FFOF with no amendments even though it will kill off all the microbes in the soil with chem nutes can I still use them when the soil has been used up? I have GH 3 part with calmag on the way for feeding these 3 practice plants and in the event I didnt add enough super soil to the pot for future grows. Would you recommend organic nutes instead especially if I plant to reuse the super soil?
 
The digital meter is "set" from the factory and the liquid tests are not strips. The liquid test is the one where you fill up a vial with some water and add liquid drops to it and then look at the color of the water to what it changes to to that of a color chart. I use the same thing for my fish tanks but this is a different brand.

The Bloom Sea Minerals can be found here:
hxxp://mygardendoctor.com/bloom-sea-minerals-1-liter/

And I was recommended the calimagic a little earlier on this thread.

I guess I may have acted too soon with adding these however I don't think they will hurt anything?

It has been nearly 3 weeks now since the transplant into the FFOF so I guess it's not too bad? The sea minerals is just trace nutes and the calimagic is self explanatory.

When I was talking to this dude at the hydro shop everything he said sounded good... but now I realize that he is there to sell products to bring in money... so who knows if what he said was true or if what he said was just to benefit the company...
 
Like Silver Bullet said, should I stick with the FF supply for nutes and stay organic or should I go with chem nutes like the GH 3 part as well?
 

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