Building PVC Greenhouse

[The Hemp Goddess]

I really don't think it will. I also don't think that you would want that kind of slop in the fittings--you need this thing to be stable. I believe ALL the fittings should be glued. But even using a 2" fitting, I do not believe you are not going to be able to skew the fitting enough to get a true vertical. The leg of the tee would absolutely need to be the same size as the fitting as (IMO) it is critical that this piece be glued. I work with PVC a lot and I just don't see this going together like they show. I really recommend getting 1 piece of 1" and a couple of those slip fittings before proceeding to see if there is any way to get the door framing right. You can lay it out on the ground flat, stake it, and see how it lays out.

 

[4u2sm0ke]

mojo for the green house...I make hoope houses every summer...will be setting one up this weekend to get a jump start...I like to use 20 foot 1 inch pvc and 5/8 rebar...I tak the rebar at 6 feet lonng and drive in the ground 3 feet...and space them roughly 8 feet apart and 2 feet from each other...I then just put one end in the rebar and bend it over to other one across from it..cover with clear plastic...viola

cant wait to see your final build

take care and be safe:bolt::bong:

 

[ziggyross]

Let me try again on the door framing. I still see this as a real problem. For the slip tees that make up the door frame to be perpendicular to the ground, the piece of pipe they are attached to must be parallel to the ground. What is going to happen when you put a slip tee on a curved piece of pipe is the it is going to be perpendicular to the curve. So on your first diagram on the rearmost section where it shows the slip tees "J". Those vertical pieces of pipe will not go straight down as they show because they are connected to a curved piece of pipe. Draw a half circle, draw lines perpendicular to the curve--these are not straight and they will not be parallel. I am just not seeing this working for the door and window framing. I also do not believe that these slip tees are meant to be glued--I believe that that will be a problem unless you drill and pin them, I believe they will allow the greenhouse to lean and sway.

No, a sauna is not a good environment for plants.

Hemp, okay I think I see what you are talking about on the door frame. I guess I will deal with that as I build. I may just leave the entire end open instead of a door. I will screw the slipT's for more support. Using screws instead of gluing will allow me ti dis-assemble it if needed. Oh and from one of your other comments I believe you said something about the staggered top bar. I wondered about that to and mentioned to the guy at the hardware I'm ordering my pipe from. He said that staggering it with the shorter pipes would give more roof support.

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[ziggyross]

mojo for the green house...I make hoope houses every summer...will be setting one up this weekend to get a jump start...I like to use 20 foot 1 inch pvc and 5/8 rebar...I tak the rebar at 6 feet lonng and drive in the ground 3 feet...and space them roughly 8 feet apart and 2 feet from each other...I then just put one end in the rebar and bend it over to other one across from it..cover with clear plastic...viola

cant wait to see your final build

take care and be safe:bolt::bong:

4U2, where do you get 20' PVC pipe. The longest I have been able to locate is 10'

 

[4u2sm0ke]

:ciao: ziggy


I get them from an irrigation/plumbing shop....its for irrigation....first day of srping today..may take advantage of this

take care and be safe:bolt::bong:

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

All plumbing supply houses have 20' lengths of PVC. PVC comes in 2 different wall thickness--get the thicker walled pipe. In addition, I disagree with the guy at the hardware store. Shorter pieces of pipe connected with a cross instead of staggered with tees will be stronger IMO.

 

[ziggyross]

Ok first of all thank you everyone for your comments. Second after concidering cost to build and potential problems I have gone the purchase a pre-made green house route.

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

Looks nice ziggy--how big is it and how much is it?

 

[4u2sm0ke]

yeah that looks sweeeeeet...can ya share the spechs with us?...like how much light is blocked and how is the ventilation...remember to put some water jugs in there for humidity

take care and be safe

and like THG said the 20' pipe does come in thin wall and makes it easyier to bend over

 

[ziggyross]

Looks nice ziggy--how big is it and how much is it?

HG, It's 10 X 10 and 8ft at the peek It ran me $270

 

[ziggyross]

yeah that looks sweeeeeet...can ya share the spechs with us?...like how much light is blocked and how is the ventilation...remember to put some water jugs in there for humidity

take care and be safe

and like THG said the 20' pipe does come in thin wall and makes it easyier to bend over

Thanks 4U2, I have not put the cover on yet but it looks like you won't be able to tell what's inside. Will do on the water jugs. 10 X 10 8ft at the peek 6.5 ft along the side walls.

 

[ziggyross]

If anyone is interested in this greenhouse here is the link.

hxxp://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=202065765&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&MERCH=REC-_-product-1-_-202718682-_-202065765-_-N

 

[pcduck]

Thanks ziggy for the link, pretty interesting.

 

[drfting07]

:ciao: Ziggy! How are you my Virginia neighbor?

4u2sm0ke has a great idea with those hoop houses he builds every year. Its 8x 6' pieces of re-bar hammered into the dirt 3' down, 2' apart and 4' across. This lays out a rectangle that is 4' by 8' Then just bend long sections of ~1" pieces of PVC and slide it over the re-bar to make a "hoop" Lay 4 or 6mil clear plastic over the top and stake it in place. You could even make covered entrances on the sides with more plastic to keep the temperature up at night, and open it during the day. If you needed something bigger, just use larger PVC and stake out the re-bar further apart/longer. A piece along the top that ties everything together will make it sturdier as well.

Im sure with proper stability and thick plastic, you could build one that is big enough you could walk in, costs less than 200 bux to make, and can be repaired for pennies on the dollar.

 

[4u2sm0ke]

thanks drft...I enjoy makeing these and cheap as heck...I still need to finish the plastic...as for a door..I take the front off..the rest hoop house styas sealed...I made these clips useing the same size pipe justremove 1/4 works great....if the hoop house isnt to takll or long npo need for suports across..anything over 10 x 10 I would use some straight pipe...if ya look at my Last years outdoor grow...I show mine...every year is diffrent on account of the gardens layout...but living here in Seattle..we have to think of a cover prior to starting ....come September it rains rains rains....hope this helps...and cant wait to see your Green house filled with DAnk


take care and be safe:bolt::bong:

 

[ziggyross]

:ciao: Ziggy! How are you my Virginia neighbor?

4u2sm0ke has a great idea with those hoop houses he builds every year. Its 8x 6' pieces of re-bar hammered into the dirt 3' down, 2' apart and 4' across. This lays out a rectangle that is 4' by 8' Then just bend long sections of ~1" pieces of PVC and slide it over the re-bar to make a "hoop" Lay 4 or 6mil clear plastic over the top and stake it in place. You could even make covered entrances on the sides with more plastic to keep the temperature up at night, and open it during the day. If you needed something bigger, just use larger PVC and stake out the re-bar further apart/longer. A piece along the top that ties everything together will make it sturdier as well.

Im sure with proper stability and thick plastic, you could build one that is big enough you could walk in, costs less than 200 bux to make, and can be repaired for pennies on the dollar.

Hey Drifter, Cool idea but I priced out what it would cost to build the small pvc one I had in mind and it came to about the same price as the pre-built one. It did have alot of extra's like T's and snap clips but PVC in my area is a little pricey. I went ahead and get the Pr-built one. I will post pictures soon just completed putting it up.

 

[ziggyross]

4U2, Wow those are cool. I can see where that would be really cheap to make. Do you make your own clamps or are those store bought? Maybe after a couple of years when my store bought house is falling apart I will try one of these.

 

[MiracleDro]

Looking good!
Check out this too. I would just use thicker pvc like 1 1/2 in
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bw3Y...DvjVQa1PpcFO7himxuEGCaQWezM0xwVshVgn-6mkJRMU=
Check out all 4 parts

 

[drfting07]

no live links, replace the TT for XX

 

[4u2sm0ke]

4U2, Wow those are cool. I can see where that would be really cheap to make. Do you make your own clamps or are those store bought? Maybe after a couple of years when my store bought house is falling apart I will try one of these.

I did make these...they have some at the store but at 2.50 American bux each...just set table saw up at like 3/4inch and BE CAREFUL:aok:


MiracleDRo.....drfting is correct.....please break upo the address so its not live...I use 420