The Dr's Office

[Dr. Green Fang]

Posted pics two days ago, post #125 :aok:

Maybe you should put some plastic between concrete and tent? If you're worried about wicking and stuff

 

[N.E.wguy]

ya i dont want mold introduced thru the transfer from floor contact. i seen the pics i just love them and dont want to be posting random stuff in here, but frame is up new tent u motivated me more to come i assure u thanks man

 

[HighBrixMMJ]

Hey new, you might wanna put a dehumidifier in there too if there's gonna be a lot of damp concrete. RH might go up a bit, just sayin. Maybe a fan moving air around outside the tent too!

 

[Dr. Green Fang]

I would most definitely have a fan or two working the air around outside the tent, if it's going to be damp concrete :aok:

 

[HighBrixMMJ]

So if I do an ebb and flow, will smart pots still work, or should I use plastic net pots? And what size tote should I get for my Rez? Also do you have any input on the AN ph perfect line of nutes? That looks pretty sweet if it works well, my concern would be that we want a drift in ph when doing hydro correct? If those nutes are buffering at a set ph level, the plants could go through some stress? Just my thoughts!

 

[Dr. Green Fang]

So if I do an ebb and flow, will smart pots still work, or should I use plastic net pots? And what size tote should I get for my Rez? Also do you have any input on the AN ph perfect line of nutes? That looks pretty sweet if it works well, my concern would be that we want a drift in ph when doing hydro correct? If those nutes are buffering at a set ph level, the plants could go through some stress? Just my thoughts!

I believe smart pots will still work, sure I've never used them, I've always used plastic mesh pots. I would do a 15gal res at least for your res, if it's veg. If it's flower, probably closer to 40+gal. I have no input on the AN PH perfect line, and generally I like the plants to "drift" across the spectrum. I think the drift can do them quite some good, as does Hushpuppy. We've spoke about just this before, in the past I don't like the idea of buffers in there. I like full control!

 

[Dr. Green Fang]

I can't stress enough to do DWC for flower though, if you have LOW ceilings! Adding the table, and res under it and pots.. when you factor that all in, you have a really small amount of vertical space if it's in a tent. Unless you're really good at getting a 40gal long res (not tall) and keeping the legs on the table short... That could work. I've seen the res's that are made for hydro in the hydro stores, and they are sweet. Expensive, but sweet! :aok:


Keep the questions and comments coming.

 

[Dr. Green Fang]

This is copied from another thread here, but it pertains to my setup, so posting in here as well. Has to do with setting up LED's in my tents:

Hey doc throw us a few pic's, want to see how your dealing with limited headroom and led's

Some pics of my LED's. Two are at the same height, and the other two are staggered. One of the LED's is as absolutely high as I can get it in a tent now I believe. I want to leave enough space for the light to "breathe".

In the first picture, the light is hanging normally with the pulley system.
In the second picture, the light is up on the top hook of the pulley system, and surpassing most of the pulley.
In the third picture, the pulley system is entirely surpassed.
All lights have had the wires doubled, to gain some height.

 

[Dr. Green Fang]

LMK when you're ready to start laying out your new sealed room. What you describe is exactly what I run.

I think I'm kind of ready to at least start sorting this out. I'll have to have this entirely figured out and drawn up / sorted out before the day. I'd like to do the switch over in 1 day. It's going to be tricky, as I have no place to setup the tents temporarily. So I'm kind of going to have to frame around them, then break them down maybe? Or break them down and MAKE SURE I have my framework up by lights on? lol

So what were you thinking? I was thinking of framing enough space to cover the area I was previously covering, and now running the 8x 400's, and still have enough room to walk around them all and work on the under side etc. I was thinking of framing out with 2x3's or 2x4's, and wrapping the framed room with Panda Film. What are your thoughts there? Also, I believe I would like to frame a spot within the frame to mount a split A/C unit. Also, I should frame in a REAL door and not make the panda film flap open. I intend on sealing this and running CO2.

Any info I need to give you, just let me know. I'm no carpenter, but I do believe I can do this!

 

[N.E.wguy]

use 2x3 they are cheaper and you defiantly don't need 2x4 imo just for a small room with no bearing weight areas just double up under where the ac will be and your good

 

[Dr. Green Fang]

Yeah, that's what I was thinking N.E.

 

[P Jammers]

I am not sure it is exactly what you'd like to know. If you want a sealed system then it's not getting done in one day.

You want everything sealed meaning no air leaks so panda film isn't going to work.

Otherwise, CO2 is a waste of time.

This is my idea of a sealed system.

The only difference from what I run is I use a propane burner, and I run two rows of plants at the outside walls with a walkway down the middle.

Honestly, unless you are going pro rooms stay in the tents. You'll do much better having the reflection factor in place.

 

[HighBrixMMJ]

So I ordered a 400 gph pump. A tds meter. An ebb and flow kit for my flood table, all the lines to run a drip system for while theyre small, and some JJ nutes. I just need to pick up some hydroton from my local hydro store. I already have everything else. Hydro, LED show on the way. Ill start a journal when I get it all set up. Thanks dic, ill be in your ear for advice along the way. Stay tuned!

 

[Dr. Green Fang]

Oh this will be great to have someone running such a similar show!! We can compare notes often, bounce things off each other, and giggle like little school girls! (lol!)

Honestly though, I'll be here for you how needed. Did you get a res? Also, have you sorted how tall you're going to make the table? I used PVC pipe to create the frame and legs for my table. I think they make them "premade" to go with the tables.

 

[Kraven]

This is copied from another thread here, but it pertains to my setup, so posting in here as well. Has to do with setting up LED's in my tents:



Some pics of my LED's. Two are at the same height, and the other two are staggered. One of the LED's is as absolutely high as I can get it in a tent now I believe. I want to leave enough space for the light to "breathe".

In the first picture, the light is hanging normally with the pulley system.
In the second picture, the light is up on the top hook of the pulley system, and surpassing most of the pulley.
In the third picture, the pulley system is entirely surpassed.
All lights have had the wires doubled, to gain some height.

Thanks doc, now it makes sense

http://www.marijuanapassion.com//www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/

 

[HighBrixMMJ]

I was looking at 3x3 ebb and flow systems on Amazon and they come with a 20 gallon rez. So I'm thinking that's all I should need. Gonna start looking for totes or devise something that will fit under my table. I already had a table made from pvc, however I made it slope to one corner for a drain that I never put in. I wonder if that'll be ok? Not much slope I think just a half an inch over the three feet. I think I'll have to put my fill fitting in in that low point as that's where it will drain as well! It's not that tall, I can always cut the legs down if I need to even it up or shorten it.
I've always wanted to try hydro, just never had the caahonies to make the jump. I've always grown organically. Which if you ever decide to try, I am pretty good at that style of growing, I could definitely give you some valuable tips!
I can't wait to trade notes and giggle like school girls! I am getting pumped!

 

[Dr. Green Fang]

lol Brix! Pumped here too.

I must admit that I wish you were doing DWC straight up, but hey, I'm sure you can do the table! I can link you to a guy I follow, his youtube. He does flood n drain tables for every station.

In my veg, I have a 3.5 x 3.5 table, on pvc frame with 15 gal res. 20 gal would be perfect. Only issue is, I would want a res that was longer than tall. Make sense? It's because you sacrifice so much headroom for the height of the tote you use. Hard to say what I'm trying to say I think. My table slopes very little from one end to the other as well, so to help it drain back. Just have to make sure the entire table gets a couple inches deep before it drains. I have two holes, both at the same end for obvious reasons. Each has been drilled by me with a butterfly bit (DRILL PLASTICS BACKWARDS*in reverse*!!! Remember this for life) Then, I installed the flood and drain .. well.. drains. lol. one has a direct connect with 1/2" fitting connected to my pump that helps flood the table, and the other one goes to a certain height to allow the table to fill then works as a drain. When the timer turns off and stops filling your table, it will all drain back through your pump(up) drain hole.

I will take some pictures tonight.

 

[Dr. Green Fang]

Ok, you make the holes using 3/4" Spade (butterfly) drill bit, I do believe. Here's what that is: [ame]http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1578-4-Inch-6-Inch-Spade/dp/B0001LQYGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426726882&sr=8-1&keywords=3%2F4%22+spade+bit[/ame]
Then, you screw in this flood and drain kit to each of the holes drilled in the table (I think you mentioned you picked this up): [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-Ebb-Flow-Fitting-Extensions/dp/B0002738JQ[/ame]
This is basically what you're making (I also believe you mentioned look at a system like this): [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Ebb-Flow-Hydroponic-System-Tray/dp/B002CRJ7H6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1426726974&sr=8-6&keywords=flood+and+drain+table[/ame]

Attached are some pics of how mine is setup. Any and all questions, ask away!!

Also, something to note.. this res is awesome! [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-Black-Gallon-Reservoir-Bottom/dp/B00S27VFK2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1426727200&sr=8-3&keywords=40+gallon+reservoir[/ame]
It's longer but still 40 freakin' gal! Not tall it seems

Another thought.. is your 400 GPH pump adjustable?! Damn, that's going to be a lot going up into the table, hopefully it comes back down fast enough!

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[HighBrixMMJ]

Ok, you make the holes using 3/4" Spade (butterfly) drill bit, I do believe. Here's what that is: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LQYGM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Then, you screw in this flood and drain kit to each of the holes drilled in the table (I think you mentioned you picked this up): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002738JQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
This is basically what you're making (I also believe you mentioned look at a system like this): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CRJ7H6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Attached are some pics of how mine is setup. Any and all questions, ask away!!

Also, something to note.. this res is awesome! http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S27VFK2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
It's longer but still 40 freakin' gal! Not tall it seems

Another thought.. is your 400 GPH pump adjustable?! Damn, that's going to be a lot going up into the table, hopefully it comes back down fast enough!

Sweet, I got all of that down! Yes my 400 gph is adjustable. Thanks for all your help, I'm sure I'll have a lot more questions along the way. And thanks for all those links, spot on. I think I'll jus try and find one first, maybe upgrade later. Aka gotta watch my wallet! Lol

 

[HighBrixMMJ]

I just wanted to do a system that adapted to equip I already had on hand! I did look at DWC!