Organic Cultivation Subcool Style~ The never ending How to thread...

[subcool]

I spent yestarday looking over the boards at all the amazing shows here.
There are many talented growers here and its not like you guys need my help.
Other the past 35 years I have developed some techniques that produce the nice buds you see in my pics and I get so many Pm's whe I join a site asking me how I grow I think its nice to show my intire process if thats ok.

This thread will go on awhile as there is much to teach about Organics and its not only about taste. Chemicals toxify the planet and Organics rebuild the eco system and restore the micro fibers that connect all living things.
Check back often to learn more about growing in Dirt and Poo.


This is yet one more Soil Mixing tutorial. This one is going to focus on making a batch in the city while keeping it neat and tidy. First we use a tarp and a sheet of plywood under so the shovel will slide easily as we mix and scoop. This was created over 35 years of soil growing and blows away any method I have tried. Hydro growers that swap over never switch back to water.

Here is the recipe to make this concentrate!
You cannot grow plants directly in this super concentrate!

8 Bags Roots soil or equivalent high quality supped up grow soil
25 pounds Pure Worm Castings
½ cup Azomite trace minerals
2/3 Cup Sweet Lime IE Dolomite
1 Kilo Bone meal / IE 5 Pounds
1 Kilo Blood meal ( I use a bit more bone than Blood in this recipe)
1 Kilo Bat Guano bloom formula preferably Fruit bats
3/4 cup Epson Salts
The Perlite and Coco I happen to have and it will make a better mix but it is not necessary.


First we take the tarp and the Lucky rug and lift the edges to form a 2 sided pan.

So for the last year Sticky Lungs and Joe Blow have been prompting me to try a new soil called Harvest moon. It really doesn't have a name or a label but these guys carry a product line called that and they seem like really nice people.
The main complaint with Roots is the fir bark that is used as a filler. It gives you splinters and makes us wonder if the mix is the best it can be. So the Harvest Moon people don't use Fir bark but high quality Coco Fiber and no spinters.
They hand wash the coco untill its extremly low ppm and then hand mix there soil. They do this outside which bothers me somewhat.
I love there soil mix so far and we have made an entire batch of Super Soil using 8 bags of there mix as a base.


Here are the two products.

So lets take a look at the ingredients of a product called Roots Organic

Lignite*, coca fiber, perlite, pumice, compost, peat moss, bone meal, bat guano, kelp meal, Green sand, soy bean meal, leonardite, k-mag, glacial rock dust, alfalfa meal, oyster shell flour, earth worm castings and Mycorrhizae.
I have always believed in giving my plants a wide range of soils and additives I figure it's like a buffet they get all they need

“Lignite, also known as leonardite, mined lignin, brown coal, and slack, is an important constituent to the oil well, drilling industry. Lignite, or leonardite as it will be referred as hereafter, is technically known as a low rank coal between peat and sub-bituminous. Leonardite was named for Dr. A.G. Leonard, North Dakota's first state geologist, who was a pioneer in the study of lignite deposits. Leonardite is applied to products having a high content of humic acid. Humic acid has been found to be very useful as a drilling
mud thinner.”

Another local product we are trying now is called Harvest Moon

Washed coco fibers, Alaskan peat moss, perlite, yucca, pumice, diatoms, worm castings, feather meal, fishmeal, kelp meal, limestone, gypsum, soybean meal, alfalfa meal, rock dust, yucca meal, and Mycorrhizae fungi.

So the Harvest Moon boys also believe in just add water for people that are growing medicine and have less experience. There solution is an additive called One Shot which I am still awaiting data on.

You add 1/2 to 3/4 cup to a bag of there soil and its good to go.
I used a small 1/2 cup for a 7 gallon pot for this trial

Continuing to build my mountain behind the fence I built just for stuff like this

So we add water and let it cook in the sunshine. 30 days is best for this concentrate and it can be used to condition soil as detailed in the soil 101 thread. Do Not Put Clones or Seeds in this mix!

 

[subcool]

I will use this for a full year just adding like 30-50% in the lower potion of the container and plain roots in top portion. As the concentrate gets older I can use more. To re use I just recondition.

Do not put seeds or clones directly in this mix. It is an advanced mix used in conjunction with base soil. It is used to place in the bottom of each finishing container and fully rooted established clones are placed in a bed of base soil. As the plants grow they slowly push their roots into the super soil drawing up all nutrients needed for a full cycle. The Super Soil can be used also to top dress plants that take longer to mature.
I will use this mix for a full year just adding like 30-50% in the lower potion of the container and plain base soil in the top portion.

I used to use a wading pool and do this inside a garage just so you can see there are many ways to get it done. Some people even use a cement mixer.

 

[subcool]

Once the soil has cooked or sat for a month or so were ready to transplant into the final pots. I use #10 nursery pots now that will hold a full 7 gallons of liguid. I 7 may not sound bigger than a 5 but let me tell you these slanted #10 pots hold a bunch of soil!
So I store the soil in large cans and then use the same kiddie pool/or tarp I mix in to transplant in. Helps keep the mess down. I fill each pot ¾ full with the super soil. I then fill the top half with plain potting soil. This buffers the roots and gives the plants time to get used to the hot soil I use.

Lets set up our pots on our trusty tarp the same one I used in mixing this soil. We line all the pots up and place 1/2 a container of concentrate into the bottom of each container:

Ok the veg room has reached the size when I wont to change pot size.


We then layer some plain commercial potting soil on top about 2" worth then use your hand to lightly mix the two layers slightly. This allows the plant to be buffered as it hits the hot soil on bottom.

It’s important to water the plants well before transplanting. This helps prevent shock a nice damp root ball will make a happy plant. Make sure the roots do not touch direct super soil use you hand to mix the plain potting soil around with the super soil. Place a hand full of plain soil in the hole you transplant in. Gently flip the plant upside down. Wack the bottom with palm of hand to loosen the root ball. Support the plant by placing hand on pot allowing stem to protrude though fingers. Remove from pot and support the base. Flip upright and place in hole made into the soil.


Then top off with Roots soil or equal

 

[subcool]

To get a good start on this style it’s important to top the plants early. As soon as my clones have rooted well and have started to grow I chop out the meristem causing the plant to divide into 2 growing shots. If this is performed low enough the plant will actually develop 3 heads just leave 3 nodes .

Not all strains benifit from topping but most do. Some really short slow Indicas like Urkle just take to long to grow out when topped like this but this method allows us to harvest 5 ounces consistanly in soil per plant.
Topping early is the key with most strains so the plant maintains a low profile with the maximum amount of bud sites in the sweet spot of the lumuns roughly 20" from a 1K Hortilux bulb.

 

[subcool]

Tie Her Up!​

Words and Pics by Subcool​

How do larger yields and bigger buds with only the cost of some string and some of your time? Would you like to fill the same amount of stash jars using less plants, taking less clones, then lets explore the science of Plant canopy management
It is amazing what can be accomplished using plant bondage (LST) and canopy management. This can be very useful in medical gardens where the number of plants is limited but everyone can benefit using this technique by achieving larger yield per plant. I get amazing results with much larger plants using simple topping and spreading the plant open and using string or floral wire to tie her down. This method can help in many areas.
First we want to top our plants very early and close to the soil so they have multiple heads and there left in the vegetive phase for long enough to form a large bush with a height of about 24-36”. Once the plants leave the vegetive area and enter the flowering room tie them down so that there over all height is much shorter and the plants are wider. This allows your lights to be a bit lower maximizing lumen efficiency. With taller grows some time the lights can be so high that the over all lumens reaching the shorter of the plants have diminished so much that those plants end up with poor yields. This method also allows you to fill a rather large area with far less plants and it requires fewer plants to be cloned.
The second thing this training of the plant allows is more light to the second level buds or lower shelf as I like to call it. Before we employed this method or tops were huge but the lowers were airy and mainly fluff. This trick assures large buds even at the lower levels.
Last and most importantly it increases yields per plant, when the number of plants are limited that’s extremely important. Many state medical programs have strict plant limits. So with larger topped plants tied up to maximize yields and manage the canopy height we get a good 4 ounces per plant minimum and on some strain we get 5 and 6 ounces per plant. That’s enough to last and make enough cookies for our patients and other friends who have cards.
With my set up I run two grow rooms one for the vegetive phase ( Metal Halide) and one for budding phase ( High Pressure Sodium). I grow the plants in my own mix of concentrated super soil containing worm castings, bat guano, bone meal, Epson salts, lime, and other organic ingredients including endo/ecto mycorrihizae, which I find extremely beneficial to young plants. I start rooted seedlings and rooted clones in straight high quality potting soil so the super soil concentrate doesn’t burn the fragile babies. The clones are started into rapid rooters and then they are transplanted into 1 gallon pots, and when there firmly established I top the meristem ( Main Stem) nice and low so that the plant develops a nice short bush shape with 3 to 4 growing heads, as long as I leave to sets of fan leaves the plant always recovers well and gets a great start.
Seedlings are a bit different and you must allow the seedling to develop and have at least 4-5 internodes before topping. If you top a seedling to early the shock will slow the plant down tremendously wasting time. Clones and seedlings grow under a 18/6 light cycle until I can see roots in the lower drain holes. They then get transplanted again into large 7 gallon lowboy pots, using my super soil in bottom 2/3 of pot and straight premium potting soil in the top 1/3 and placed back in 18/6 under the same 1000 watt MH. Once the plants have been in veg for almost 60 days almost everything is finishing up in the bud room and harvest is approaching. One everything is trimmed up and the old pots moved out and the soil recycled it’s time to clean everything well, washing the floor and tarps with bleach and making sure everything is mold free. At this time I clean off the glass in the vented hoods with glass cleaner. A clean room is the sign of a good grower! The plants are now placed in main bud room that measures 10x5 with 2- 1000 Watt HPS Hortilux bulbs.
This is the time when we clean up our plants removing any smaller shoots that are shaded still so that this energy that would have gone to produce fluff and added time to trimming can instead go to the upper buds that are actually in the light. This also allows more air to circulate under the canopy so that O2 doesn’t stratify. This in it self will increase the yields and make your trimming a bit easier. I am not sure everyone will get this analogy but the plant looking up should kinds look like broccoli with everything up top.

Tie your mother down!​

Using a small drill I make 4 holes directly beside each main branch. I use floral wire now and secure the branch about halfway up and then gently pull that branch down opening and exposing the center of the plant allowing more light to penetrate the canopy. As we have discussed this also makes the plant shorter and this can allow more veg time and a larger base stem all things that can increase your yields. Don’t be so quick to bud your plants a few extra days can make a huge difference in how long your medicine holds out. Super Cropping is the next technique I want to cover here. In laymen’s terms super cropping is bending or pinching the stem causing slight damage, the plant repairs this damage making a stronger stem that for some reason creates much larger buds. Some people completely break there stems and then repair them using bandages or splits, we don’t need no stinking bandages! Try treating a room of plants and not a garden, get in touch with each strain or hybrid you grow determining how much it will stretch and if it does best topped or like a rare few better untopped. Try some of these techniques on your plants and I know you will be amazed at the outcome.

 

[Shovelhandle]

Fine article, Subcool. I like to mix my own soil and also use a wading pool. I've got enough put up for my next grow, at least. But I'm going to look into your recipes and formulas and see if I can duplicate them sometime. I use to grow outdoors only, but just lost too many plants to theives so I'm indoors now. I like organic soil grown pot, it smells and tastes better than the outdoor plants when I'd transplant a seedling with a small amount of good soil mix.

Shov

 

[subcool]

We do not keep mother plants!
Thats right we breed without a net

Here is the trick. We take cuttings from out vegging plants a few days before they go into bud.
This means we have to really be good at cloning but it has worked for us and saves room.
MzJill fits into the room better than I do and she cleans up the sucker shoots and we then clone em.

Now before we get into the work lets do some reviewing:
I run three area a small vegetive area that uses a 400 and a cfl.
I have a combo Veg/bud area with a 1k MH
We run a 2000 watt 11x6 bud room

The veg room grows up while the bud room makes meds.

As the main bud room gets close to finishing its time to take clones from the vegging plants prior to flipping there light cycle to 12/12

So as you can see in the pictures the bud room is done with plants in there final stages of maturation. Shown are Vortex and Tinybomb. A glance into the main veg area shows large plants close to 18” already topped pre trained and ready for 12/12 but before we do this I have to take cuttings. We do not keep moms! Yes that’s right I have kept al my moms alive for over 6 years without ever keeping a permanent momma plant.
You think cloning is important now? You bet on it it’s the key to mastering the art of Fine cannabis production.


So I take cuts after a long dark period cause of a report I read once and I figure it can’t hurt.

Technical stuff
From Clarke on Rooting

Rooting

A knowledge of the internal structure of the stem is helpful in understanding the origin of adventitious roots.

The development of adventitious roots can be broken down into three stages: (1) the initiation of meristematic cells located just outside and between the vascular bundles (the root initials), (2) the differentiation of these meristematic cells into root primordia, and (3) the emergence and growth of new roots by rupturing old stem tissue and establishing vascular connections with the shoot.

As the root initials divide, the groups of cells take on the appearance of a small root tip. A vascular system forms with the adjacent vascular bundles and the root continues to grow outward through the cortex until the tip emerges from the epidermis of the stem. Initiation of root growth usually begins within a week and young roots appear within four weeks. Often an irregular mass of white cells, termed callus tissue, will form on the surface of the stem adjacent to the areas of root initiation. This tissue has no influence on root formation. However, it is a form of regenerative tissue and is a sign that conditions are favorable for root initiation.

The physiological basis for root initiation is well understood and allows many advantageous modifications of rooting systems. Natural plant growth substances such as auxins, cytokinins, and gibberellins are certainly responsible for the control of root initiation and the rate of root formation. Auxins are considered the most influential. Auxins and other growth substances are involved in the control of virtually all plant processes: stem growth, root formation, lateral bud inhibition, floral maturation, fruit development, and determination of sex. Great care is exercised in application of artificial growth substances so that detrimental conflicting reactions in addition to rooting do not occur. Auxins seem to affect most related plant species in the same way, but the mechanism of this action is not yet fully understood.

Many synthetic compounds have been shown to have auxin activity and are commercially available, such as napthaleneacetic acid (NAA), indolebutyric acid (IBA), and 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4 DPA), but only indoleacetic acid has been isolated from plants. Naturally occurring auxin is formed mainly in the apical shoot men stem and young leaves. It moves downward after its formation at the growing shoot tip, but massive concentrations of auxins in rooting solutions will force travel up the vascular tissue. Knowledge of the physiology of auxins has led to practical applications in rooting cuttings. It was shown originally by Went and later by Thimann and Went that auxins promote adventitious root formation in stem cuttings. Since application of natural or synthetic auxin seems to stimulate adventitious root formation in many plants, it is assumed that auxin levels are associated with the formation of root initials. Further research by Warmke and Warmke (1950) suggested that the levels of auxin may determine whether adventitious roots or shoots are formed, with high auxin levels promoting root growth and low levels favoring shoots.

Cytokinins are chemical compounds that stimulate cell growth. In stem cuttings, cytokinins suppress root growth and stimulate bud growth. This is the opposite of the reaction caused by auxins, suggesting that a natural balance of the two may be responsible for regulating nor mal plant growth. Skoog discusses the use of solutions of equal concentrations of auxins and cytokinins to pro mote the growth of undifferentiated callus tissues. This may provide a handy source of undifferentiated material for cellular cloning.

Although Cannabis cuttings and layers root easily, variations in rootability exist and old stems may resist rooting. Selection of rooting material is highly important. Young, firm, vegetative shoots, 3 to 7 millimeters (1/8 to ¼ inch) in diameter, root most easily. Weak, unhealthy plants are avoided, along with large woody branches and reproductive tissues, since these are slower to root. Stems of high carbohydrate content root most easily. Firmness is a sign of high carbohydrate levels in stems but may be con fused with older woody tissue. An accurate method of determining the carbohydrate content of cuttings is the iodine starch test. The freshly cut ends of a bundle of cuttings are immersed in a weak solution of iodine in potassium iodide. Cuttings containing the highest starch content stain the darkest; the samples are rinsed and sorted accordingly. High nitrogen content cuttings seem to root more poorly than cuttings with medium to low nitrogen content. Therefore, young, rapidly-growing stems of high nitrogen and low carbohydrate content root less well than slightly older cuttings. For rooting, sections are selected that have ceased elongating and are beginning radial growth. Staminate plants have higher average levels of carbohydrates than pistillate plants, while pistillate plants exhibit higher nitrogen levels. It is unknown whether sex influences rooting, but cuttings from vegetative tissue are taken just after sex determination while stems are still young. For rooting cloning stock or parental plants, the favorable balance (low nitrogen-to-high carbohydrate) is achieved in several ways:

1 - Reduction of the nitrogen supply will slow shoot growth and allow time for carbohydrates to accumulate. This can be accomplished by leaching (rinsing the soil with large amounts of fresh water), withholding nitrogenous fertilizer, and allowing stock plants to grow in full sun light. Crowding of roots reduces excessive vegetative growth and allows for carbohydrate accumulation.

2 - Portions of the plant that are most likely to root are selected. Lower branches that have ceased lateral growth and begun to accumulate starch are the best. The carbohydrate-to-nitrogen ratio rises as you move away from the tip of the limb, so cuttings are not made too short.

3 - Etiolation is the growth of stem tissue in total darkness to increase the possibility of root initiation. Starch levels drop, strengthening tissues and fibers begin to soften, cell wall thickness decreases, vascular tissue is diminished, auxin levels rise, and undifferentiated tissue begins to form. These conditions are very conducive to the initiation of root growth. If the light cycle can be con trolled, whole plants can be subjected to etiolation, but usually single limbs are selected for cloning and wrapped for several inches just above the area where the cutting will be taken. This is done two weeks prior to rooting. The etiolated end may then be unwrapped and inserted into the rooting medium. Various methods of layers and cuttings rooted below soil level rely in part on the effects of etiolation.

4 - Girdling a stem by cutting the phloem with a knife or crushing it with a twisted wire may block the downward mobility of carbohydrates and auxin and rooting cofactors, raising the concentration of these valuable components of root initiation above the girdle.


Even though Rapid Rooters dont need rooting solution I am old school and still use the cheap stuff

Ok so lets get started. I clean my scissors well and lay out all my materials.
I wet my rapid rooters well and start by taking some lowers from each plant in veg.

I use a Vita Grow to clone with but any of the ones on the market work well even take root powder.

Its very important to remove all but top leaves and if there to large I even trim these back.

Lets move to the next step.

 

[Timmyjg6]

Wow, learning alot.. Just not sure if i have the room and materials to mix my own soil... Do you have a smaller recipe maybe to fill one pot?

 

[subcool]

Make sure you cut the clone and a sharp angle like a spear. I do not scrape my clones stems but many people do.

I use the pen to make a hole in the rooter and hold it open as I pull out the pen. I gently find the hole and slide the cutting down never forcing the cut.
So now we have a labeled clone in a moist rooter this goes into the clone box at 75 degrees.

I keep repeating these steps until all the plants on the list are checked off, if a plants small still its marked as ‘In Veg” and will be cloned later when it’s a larger plant.

Its important to take notes when your actually smoking strains like these

I see people wasting coin on all kinds of contraptions only Really designed to take your hard earned dollars out of your pocket.

Cloning is about temperature and humidity more than anything IMO.

There is also a wierd thing that if you have confidence and dont really care about the clones once there done they do better than when you stress over em kinda like a watched kettle never boiling.

Will this ghetto method work?

You Betcha!

 

[AsianSky]

Post more please !! This is great !!!!! Nice picturial steps too !!

 

[subcool]

Wow, learning alot.. Just not sure if i have the room and materials to mix my own soil... Do you have a smaller recipe maybe to fill one pot?

Timmy this is a question I get alot and to be honest the answer is no. This mix is the cumlative knowledge of 30 years growing in soil so you cant duplicate it with short cuts but youd be surprized how small an area it takes if you use some thought. maybe 2 large bins transfering back and forth.

However!!!!

You can get really good results using a good quality potting soil gearing for cannabis growing ( High Energy) my soil will kill a mater or corn btw, You can then place a small amount of layering blood meal and bone meal near the bottom like a palm full. this gives it time to break down some and allow the roots to dig into it when needed.
The third method is to use organic nutrients to create poo stew I like earth Juice and liquid karma as well as Mother earth tea.

Always supliment with sucanat and sweatleaf sugars at day 30 and day 45.

Sub

 

[subcool]

I feel silly telling people on a site of this caliber how to start seeds but youd be surprized at the veteran growers that have problems.
Tip 1
Do not use a ******* heat mat to start seeds!
I have seen more quality genetics cooked this way than I can tell you.

Cannabis is a weed and the seeds will start if viable in almost any condition, want me to prove it.
These are seeds I deemed un worthy that were blown out of my sifting pan on to rocks under my BBQ grill.

So this is how I feel is the best way to start seeds.



Wash hands well with disenfectant soap

Place seeds in Rapid Rooters with the Point up and button end down.
Water

Place in Dome
Leave alone till they sprout

These Vortex and Dannyboys 6 years old both took less than 48 hours.

 

[snuggles]

Thanks again, you're writing us a book...it's great. Surprising to see you don't keep mothers, I often mull this over in my head, space is money LOL.

 

[slowmo77]

man! what a read. can't wait for more.

 

[Sir_Tokie]

Very nice read thanks a million and please keep it coming.....take care and have fun

 

[Dankerz]

:woohoo: More:48: MorE:headbang2: mOre:banana: m0rE:aok:

:holysheep: You spittin sum good shish..I enjoy the read Subcool ..keep it comin

 

[LowRider]

can this be a sticky?????

 

[subcool]

People that haven’t been trained simply don’t understand Air and Cooling so I am going to attempt to help out.
First some things I see commonly done wrong by growers.

A window unit goes into a window. It is not designed to be ducted with cardboard or vented into a garage. These things work marginally at high temps and without proper air flow all they do is use energy. I was at a grow this weekend that’s improperly vented and the power bill is 600 where it should be 300. That’s 3600 a year wasted that could go to making it work properly there fore saving money every year.

That will pay for a mini split that uses ½ the electricity as a window unit.

Think Green in your grow room!

Moving Air is a lot cheaper than chilling it so if your hoods are hot then your venting system sucks. You should be able to hold your hands on your hoods and glass and not have to move them. If they are generating heat then your now paying to Chill the room and that cost a lot more.

A 1200 CFM vortex uses like 1 amp a 10,000 btu ac uses like 8

Air is a Fluid! Think of it as water. Everyone go look at there venting flex if water was running through it would it cavitate and restrict and all those bends without elbo’s? So does air you just cant see it. Air has friction and just like any fluid just less but its still a huge factor in venting.

Lets look at the proper way to vent a closed system.



Lets explore


WE want to install a hard pipe system as our main trunk line this will prevent friction flex is used only as short connecting tubes.

Ok I cut a 8" Dryer Vent in and tore off the flapper and cover.

We then attach a 8" elbo and a 7 foot section of pipe to go from down low to up high.

At the top of the cieling below the plate we come through with the 8" duct using an elbo 8"

As this duct passes through MzJill's hydro room we chop in a 4" hole to provide fresh air for her hood. Being close to the intake it will get lots of good clean fresh air and stay cool even with the smaller duct.

We now enter the main bud room with the 8" pipe all joints are sealed and taped as were using co2.

Using a factory 8x6x6 Wye fitting I terminate the fresh air intake feeding each hood with a very short piece of 6" flex but I use elbos at the fittings to reduce friction and turbulence.

I properly vented movable hood using 6" flex and an elbo and a long sweep. No short hard turns to restrict air flow.

The new hood straight through these hoods are cool to the touch.

 

[subcool]

This side of the trunk is powered by a 1200 cfm Vortex tied in with 10" hard pipe and elbos. It feeds a 12" phat filter mounted in the attic above this room.

You can see the new hood tieing in up high with no restrictions.

Now you can see a few connections on the exhaust trunk one goes over head to a vent that pulls any dank smelling air out of the common room and through the filter.

Another 6" tap travels into the veg room to vent the 1000 MH hood notice I used hard rigid flex to reduce friction I am a good ways from the main trunk at the end of the run its always good to go big on the last run.

Finally Jills new hood tied in but without elbos I will pick some up in the morning.

Dont cut corners venting you rooms it will cost you on your power bill. Multiply energy waste by 12 thats what it cost you per year.

Dont try and convert a 125$ window unit into something it wasn't designed for.

I hope this helps guys.

 

[subcool]

This is a tutorial on building a large medical grow inside a 20x24 garage.
It was completed last year and has run with no problems since then.
Before we get back to growing lets check out some construction.

Well the project is coming along fine with the usual hassles mainly materials costing 3X what you expect, along with tools malfunctioning.

I will have some pics tomorrow when it starts coming together.

This is what we have so far. I have had new rooms proffesionally framed for logevity and security. The sizes are surprizingly small for what I am investing but I don't want a bigger area just a safe one.
Main bud 11x 5-1/2 2k with locking door CO/2 800 cfm carbon scrubber
veg 1 5x7 1K with locking door tied into 800 and scrubber
Veg Room 2 400 watt W/ Door Used for differnt projects and DWC for MzJill
Clone area shelf located in veg room 1
Breeding room used temporarily and moving the 400 watt light over. Sneak entry from veg room 1 no outside movement needed. Self contained venting
10x6 Photo area and protective wall This Common area leads to all rooms

50 watt Sub panel fed by 3/4 metal conduit and #6 THHN stranded wire.

We start hanging sheet rock in the am I will snap some pictures.

The two entry doors are also being replaced with new steel exterior doors.
Ok this is mid way so its messy but its the skeleton of a very secure med garden. Notice its not some huge warehouse thats not what this is about. I wanted good code construction with proper walls and all the trimmings I wont paint the grow rooms but they will be mudded sanded and primed to protect the rock. Foylon will be placed in all grow areas.

Well today was one hell of a work out, after building the fence the side yard was covered in this nasty mud that stuck to everything so I had 2 yards of rock brought in and put in in the new path that the fence is around used for equipment storage and outdoor work area.
Ever move 2 yards of 3/4 less gravel with a shovel and a wheel barrow? OMG its death let me tell ya

So MrG got almost all the rock in place and I have it all taped off. A seeing impared person could do a much better job mudding than me and I made the biggest mess you ever saw but its all mudded off I predict alot of sanding coming up.

But it nice and sealed and ready for a Second coat

The outer security wall is 5/8 ply wood so thats easier.

Did you know insulation is expensive as hell?
I was shocked 200$ for a 4 bundles of r-30

So on with the show.