? on venting to the attic

[That crazy vancouver guy]

u can buy good molassis any place you can buy food... unsulfured, blackstrap molassis... they kind that is used for baking... the stuff in my fridge gets used for both my ladies and in cooking.

 

[D3]

Hey Blue, didn't mean to jump your butt. It's a sour taste in my mouth about mold because of the way I was screwed. I live in the desert, in the south as well. I didn't think mold would ever be a problem as dry as it is here. This just goes to show you, mold is a problem everywhere, in certain conditions. At the time, my home was a flat roof, adobe home. I will never own a flat roofed home, again. Plus on top of all that, I had to trash a good grow that I had going at the time I had to move out because of the state. So you can see my point. Once again, Sorry to jump your butt. Later Man

 

[Yellowjacket]

Yep, swamp coolers are a big source of all that humidity that allows the mold to grow. Out here in the desert our humidity is usually below 30% almost all the time. I live with refrigerated air.

YJ

 

[terky]

if your thinging of going to the arttic then go there and tap into your furice ex, throw a filter hook it onto your ex out the roof andyour laughin..

but like i said bfore im a newbie.. just trying to help

Dont do that. Carbon monoxide may come back into your house. Your flue (furnace exhaust) is engineered at a certain size so that the hot exhaust does not cool too quickly, condense and pool into a combustable liquid You do not want to modify your system. Most flue venting is brand specific and not interchangeable. You could burn your house down and kill yourself!

Most attics have roof vents. go to home depot, get a metal roof flashing for whatever size duct you have. Also get some 1/4" long screws look for the Zip-in brand. 1/4" so you dont screw through your roof!!!!!

Flip the flashing upside down so that the flat part is up and the cone is down. Slide your duct onto the flashing so that the top 3"-4" is through the conical part. use 1 screw to hold the duct in place for now. Place the flat side of the flashing on the bottom of your roof. slide it around until you get the duct plumb and centered under the roof vent. Screw the flashing to your roof with one srew in each corner and then 1 screw in the middle of each side maybe halfway between the edge and the cone. Put three more screws through the cone into the duct, 1 on each side. You can caulk this if you want. Use plumbers strap to secure the duct to your truss. screw the strap to a truss, wrap it around the duct, pull it tight and screw the other end to the opposite truss. Secure it near every elbow or every 8'. Then insulate all of this or it will produce condensation and then mold will grow.

I know its kinda an older post but I dont want people killing themselves.

It should look like this.

 

[RugerBaby]

Dont do that. Carbon monoxide may come back into your house. Your flue (furnace exhaust) is engineered at a certain size so that the hot exhaust does not cool too quickly, condense and pool into a combustable liquid You do not want to modify your system. Most flue venting is brand specific and not interchangeable. You could burn your house down and kill yourself!

Most attics have roof vents. go to home depot, get a metal roof flashing for whatever size duct you have. Also get some 1/4" long screws look for the Zip-in brand. 1/4" so you dont screw through your roof!!!!!

Flip the flashing upside down so that the flat part is up and the cone is down. Slide your duct onto the flashing so that the top 3"-4" is through the conical part. use 1 screw to hold the duct in place for now. Place the flat side of the flashing on the bottom of your roof. slide it around until you get the duct plumb and centered under the roof vent. Screw the flashing to your roof with one srew in each corner and then 1 screw in the middle of each side maybe halfway between the edge and the cone. Put three more screws through the cone into the duct, 1 on each side. You can caulk this if you want. Use plumbers strap to secure the duct to your truss. screw the strap to a truss, wrap it around the duct, pull it tight and screw the other end to the opposite truss. Secure it near every elbow or every 8'. Then insulate all of this or it will produce condensation and then mold will grow.

I know its kinda an older post but I dont want people killing themselves.

It should look like this.

whew! thanks, I was about to vent to my attic.. once again, thanks a bunch!!

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

I would not recommend that anyone do a roof penetration by themselves. It can be hard to completely seal a roof flashing against the weather and it is incredibly easy to get leaks. Even a minor leak on a roof flashing can cause thousands of dollars of damage in your home.

 

[LEFTHAND]

Dont do that. Carbon monoxide may come back into your house. Your flue (furnace exhaust) is engineered at a certain size so that the hot exhaust does not cool too quickly, condense and pool into a combustable liquid You do not want to modify your system. Most flue venting is brand specific and not interchangeable. You could burn your house down and kill yourself!

Most attics have roof vents. go to home depot, get a metal roof flashing for whatever size duct you have. Also get some 1/4" long screws look for the Zip-in brand. 1/4" so you dont screw through your roof!!!!!

Flip the flashing upside down so that the flat part is up and the cone is down. Slide your duct onto the flashing so that the top 3"-4" is through the conical part. use 1 screw to hold the duct in place for now. Place the flat side of the flashing on the bottom of your roof. slide it around until you get the duct plumb and centered under the roof vent. Screw the flashing to your roof with one srew in each corner and then 1 screw in the middle of each side maybe halfway between the edge and the cone. Put three more screws through the cone into the duct, 1 on each side. You can caulk this if you want. Use plumbers strap to secure the duct to your truss. screw the strap to a truss, wrap it around the duct, pull it tight and screw the other end to the opposite truss. Secure it near every elbow or every 8'. Then insulate all of this or it will produce condensation and then mold will grow.

I know its kinda an older post but I dont want people killing themselves.

It should look like this.

thats what a dampers for... allows for one way air flow... .. as well as your fans should be running 24/7 anyways so that will be pushing air out.. ....... there sorry i didnt make myself 100% clear..
LH

 

[meds4me]

Dont do that. Carbon monoxide may come back into your house. Your flue (furnace exhaust) is engineered at a certain size so that the hot exhaust does not cool too quickly, condense and pool into a combustable liquid You do not want to modify your system. Most flue venting is brand specific and not interchangeable. You could burn your house down and kill yourself!

Most attics have roof vents. go to home depot, get a metal roof flashing for whatever size duct you have. Also get some 1/4" long screws look for the Zip-in brand. 1/4" so you dont screw through your roof!!!!!

Flip the flashing upside down so that the flat part is up and the cone is down. Slide your duct onto the flashing so that the top 3"-4" is through the conical part. use 1 screw to hold the duct in place for now. Place the flat side of the flashing on the bottom of your roof. slide it around until you get the duct plumb and centered under the roof vent. Screw the flashing to your roof with one srew in each corner and then 1 screw in the middle of each side maybe halfway between the edge and the cone. Put three more screws through the cone into the duct, 1 on each side. You can caulk this if you want. Use plumbers strap to secure the duct to your truss. screw the strap to a truss, wrap it around the duct, pull it tight and screw the other end to the opposite truss. Secure it near every elbow or every 8'. Then insulate all of this or it will produce condensation and then mold will grow.

I know its kinda an older post but I dont want people killing themselves.

It should look like this.

Sorry but a bit of this is WRONG ! Never flip a flashing ...Why would you ever want to trap water ? Second it SHOULD be fastened to youre roof other wise the next strong breeze will bring you problems. On typical 3 tab roofing it NEEDS to be under atleast the first if not the second layer as well in order to allow water to flow naturallly down hill. ~ Sorry but being tin bender for countless years and homes ~

 

[meds4me]

Lefthand : Dampers are usually mounted on the exterior of the building.

 

[LEFTHAND]

Lefthand : Dampers are usually mounted on the exterior of the building.

i didnt write that quote u have dude... the dampers yes the flashing and shet noooo.. nooo nooo.. please change dat dude...

im not talking the ones for dryer vents and what not there like a cylinder with a one way flapper you can hook duckting to it up ive seen pvc pipe..
like a duct conector but with a one way flap in the middle allows air "one" way lol... but seriously the above i didnt post so change it..plz
LH

 

[meds4me]

The reply was more of a clarification to the above post concerning putting roof flashings upside down <the way i read it anyways>.

You were talking bout back flow protectors as in bath room ones. I was talking about actual backflow dampers you put outside <much like a dyers only waay larger >. Peace ~

 

[dubblehue]

my question is, how does the mold get through a vent that is blowing in the opposite direction of which the mold may be traveling?

 

[meds4me]

Mold starts in the room due to high humidity / water source / room temps are all factors ~