# how to cure your meds



## HGB

by DJ Short Breeder of the famed "Flo" and "Blueberry" strains


Proper curing can exponentially increase the quality and desirability of your harvest. The key word to remember is "slow". 

Dark & Dry

After cutting the plant or branch, hang it upside down in a cool, dry, and most importantly dark place. Light must be avoided from this point on. Leave the larger shade leaves on and they will gently droop and wrap around the plant, protecting the buds.

The time to the next step depends on how dry your hanging area is. This requires regular checking to determine when to proceed. When the larger shade leaves become dry and brittle to the touch it is time to gently clip them off.

Re-hang the branches in the drying room and regularly check them until the smaller leaves and bud tips become dry and brittle to the touch. It is then time to remove the buds from the branch and remove the rest of the leaf material as best as possible. This is what is referred to as "manicuring".

Now you have a few choices as to what to do with your manicured buds. The buds should still be a little wet at this point, especially on the inside, but the outer part of the buds should be starting to feel dry. Some of the buds, the smaller ones in particular, might even be smokable at this point.

If you are in a more humid area, or if the buds are still feeling heavy with moisture, you may want to try placing them on a suspended screen for a little while. This will help to hasten the drying process. Once again, regular checking to decide when they are ready for the next stage is crucial. This is also a skill that is developed more with time and experience, so practice!


Brown Bagging It

Once the buds are crisp on the outside but still moist on the inside it is time for the next step in the process: the paper bag. I like to use brown paper shopping bags due to their not being bleached, an unwanted chemical.

Simply fill a paper bag a few inches deep with the manicured buds. Don't pack the buds down and do not fold the bag too tight. A few small folds at the top of the bag, like a lunch bag, should suffice.

If the buds are a tad wet or if humid conditions dominate, you might want to consider cutting a few small holes in the bag, above the level of the buds, for ventilation.

As with proper manicuring, regular checking is key. The bags should be gently shaken, ever-so-carefully turning the buds, at least once a day. As the buds dry they will naturally compact into the self-preserving state that we all know and love. It is at this time that the buds can be more compacted together and the bag folded down tighter. They should now be fully smokable, though perhaps still slightly damp at the core.

The entire process, from harvest to these first smokable products, should take anywhere from two to four weeks, depending on your climate. Extremes in climate, such as very arid deserts or tropical humid areas, may take more or less time. There is no substitute for consistent, hands-on checking.


The Final Stage

A final curing stage, preferred by most connoisseurs, involves sealable jars. The nearly ready buds are transferred from the bag to the jar, packed in very loosely, and the jar is sealed. It is very important in the early jar-stage to check the buds at least once a day.

I like to dump them all out of the jar and gently fluff them up at least once a day at first, then less often as time progresses, usually for a week to ten days. It is important to be as gentle as possible so as not to damage too many of the resin glands. After a week or so all I do is simply open the jar and check the buds on a daily basis.

Watch for Mold

The main thing to watch (and smell) for throughout all of the curing process is mold. Whenever mold is found it must be dealt with immediately. The moldy bud needs to be removed, and the rest of the product needs to be exposed to a drier environment for a while.

The simplest solution is to go back one step. For example, if the mold was detected in the jar stage simply put the rest of the product back to the bag stage for awhile (after removing the contaminated product from the batch). If the mold is detected in the bag stage, go back to the screen. The screen is the driest process that I know of. If problems with the mold occur prior to this, a dehumidifier in the drying room may be the answer. Aside from watching and smelling for mold, always remember to keep the product in the dark.



Ready to go!

A bud is completely dry, cured, and ready for sale or consumption when the stem in the middle of the bud snaps when the bud is cracked with the fingers. The snap is easy to detect with practice. It is at this stage that the product can safely be sealed and stored for an indefinite period of time.

The longer you can stretch out this process, while also avoiding mold, the better. I like when it takes six to eight weeks from harvest to the finished product. You will be able to detect the fragrance of the product becoming more and more desirable as time progresses.



E-man has allso posted up some stuff from ed and mel and it is a sticky

I have posted this alot.... maybe a mod type peep can stick this as well :hubba: 

peace


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## scm59

hello dj,
lets just call me gretal, because that is what I call my pride and joy.  have you ever tried a cigar box humidor to first hang your plants?


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## Hick

> I have posted this alot.... maybe a mod type peep can stick this as well


It is already included in the "Growers Resources" page hgb, along with Emans on "Ed 'n Mels" article


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## johnnybuds

Sealable container. Is that a Vacume seal type container??

Thanks JB


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## HGB

johnnybuds said:
			
		

> Sealable container. Is that a Vacume seal type container??
> 
> Thanks JB



can be yes..... jar with lid is what most use


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## johnnybuds

HGB said:
			
		

> can be yes..... jar with lid is what most use




Is it best to keep it in the frigerator?


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## GuerillaGrower420

Sweet guide, very simple to understand, thanks alot!


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## yeroc1982

Is it ok if it is dried in a room thats total dark, 20% humidity and very cold, like 30F or so?


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## BenDover

yeroc1982 said:
			
		

> Is it ok if it is dried in a room thats total dark, 20% humidity and very cold, like 30F or so?



That should be perfect.   Just make sure to check on it occasionally to make sure it doesn't dry out too much.


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## yeroc1982

Alright cool man!Thanks


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## Midnight Toker

So there cured in the jar from a week to 10 days?


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## HGB

Midnight Toker said:
			
		

> So there cured in the jar from a week to 10 days?




4 to 6 months    most mine goes 1 year before i smoke it


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## octobong007

one year?  i couldn't do it.


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## HGB

octobong007 said:
			
		

> one year?  i couldn't do it.




sure you could :hubba:  

grow ahead for hard times like.... store it right and it will last years

:48:


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## dannyt70

ever vacuum pack and freeze??


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## Riverhead

What happens in the drying/curing process that increases the quality?    (I have never waited long enough  SMILE)


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## Slartibartfast

dannyt70 said:
			
		

> ever vacuum pack and freeze??



I think freezing would rupture the trichomes.  That would be bad in my opinion.


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## johnnybuds

Slartibartfast said:
			
		

> I think freezing would rupture the trichomes. That would be bad in my opinion.



I think the "vacum packing" would crush the tri's also :hubba:


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## dimebag420

nothing is better than opening a jar a few months in and smelling all the fruits of your labor. yummmmm


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## Kathi97502

hi there - I'm pretty new to this and I received my second and third plants from my grower about 10 days ago. They were really small plants. I got about 2 oz off each. I thought the buds had cured long enough and I moved them from jars to freezer baggies for storage and put them in back of my kitchen pantry. I checked them a few minutes ago and they have a bit of a "freshly mown lawn smell" Is that normal? or is it mold??:holysheep: thanks for any advice. Kathi


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## omnigr33n

Mold smells sorta like piss.


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## growdammit

Kathi97502 said:
			
		

> hi there - I'm pretty new to this and I received my second and third plants from my grower about 10 days ago. They were really small plants. I got about 2 oz off each. I thought the buds had cured long enough and I moved them from jars to freezer baggies for storage and put them in back of my kitchen pantry. I checked them a few minutes ago and they have a bit of a "freshly mown lawn smell" Is that normal? or is it mold??:holysheep: thanks for any advice. Kathi


 
If you have a grassy smell, your buds are still real green, hanging upside down in a dark, dry environment should get all the stuff nature needs to grow a live plant like the chlorophylls and such (Im not scientist by any means!) out of the plant.  Drying properly and curing takes time like listed above but ensures you get the full potential of the plant, taste, smell, buzz worthiness.  I would put into brown paper bags again or if cannot wait throw a couple in dehydrator until the rest finishes properly.

good luck


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## Homegrwn

Great information very helpfull what temp range for less mold problems?


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## Kathi97502

what's wrong with storing bud in gallon size baggies?  most of my buddies say that's how they store their stash.  My problem is that first I noticed that my buds were getting so dry that they were crumbling into "shake" and losing "weight".  Someone suggested putting orange peel in bag.  I did that (and forgot I did until next day!)  I then put mess into brown bag to dry it out again some.  Now I am afraid there is some mold, but not sure due to orange smell!  I sampled it and it taste great and got me up and scrubbing walls lol.  Question is:  what's wrong with storing in gallon baggie??  Thanks, Kathi


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## HydroManiac

get a dehumidifier in your storage area to discourage mold


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## Geter-D1

*Kathie*   nothing is really wrong with storing in a freezer baggie, except every time you move your bag to get weed out  it starts to break the drier buds into shake from the rubbing and crushing movement everytime you dig and move it around, the longer you cure it the better it will taste and smoke also dont think over nite with an orange peel and put into a paper bag the next day would give it time to mold i have done it with bread numerous times and never molded on me hope it didnt on you


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## andy52

all i do is dry in my dryer i made from the diy section.4-5 days.then into the mason jars.i take the buds out every morning to air,then straight back into the jars.so far so good.


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## Dsix7one

how long do u brown bag it for???


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## Slartibartfast

Bag it until you can bend a big bud to the point where you can hear the stem crack inside of it.  That varies depending on moisture in the bud and in the ambient air.  Sometimes days, sometimes weeks.  If the stem will crack, it's dry enough for long-term storage in mason jars or whatever you prefer.  That's a widely accepted test among growers.

Mason jars will stop the drying at the exact moisture level they had when you screwed the top shut.  You should still open them for a few minutes a few times over the next month or so (because the buds still out-gas a little bit for a short while), then screw the lids down snug and forget about them till you have to re-fill your stash container.  They will stay fresh for years in a sealed air-tight container.


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## curlyhairgrl2007

I've read through the whole thread.  Excellent information.  My partner is harvesting, drying and trying to cure our crop.  

What happens when you harvest a week or two early?


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## J-NUEZES

whats the highest humidity can be in a box with airflow and 65 to 70 degrees. mine fluxuates from 32% to 40% humidity. i'm trying to get it no more than 35%. do you guys think that's still too high? i'm harvesting blueryder. some are fluffy and some are semi-dense.  what do you think?--- http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39422&page=3


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## bustabus

yesterday i harvested my tiny lady  . I trimmed as much leafs as i could. I then hung it in my closet. I was wondering if i could cut the buds off the stem tommorrow  and put them in my jar. The last time i harvested i just left them in my closet for 3 or 4 days and it was  crispy dry. Will putting the buds in the jar stop this from happening again or am i missing a step thanks


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## Reddy Kilowatt

J-NUEZES said:
			
		

> whats the highest humidity can be in a box with airflow and 65 to 70 degrees. mine fluxuates from 32% to 40% humidity. i'm trying to get it no more than 35%. do you guys think that's still too high? i'm harvesting blueryder. some are fluffy and some are semi-dense.  what do you think?--- http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39422&page=3



I dry in a small wooden box with a fan controlled by a hygrostat.  The humidity in the box stays around 70% @ room temp.  To get a higher humidity level, use an appropriate volume sized box for the amount you are drying.


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## smokeup420

hey guys, this thuresday im chopin my lady down, lowlife white russian., i already have a sample bud off drying in a small box with a hole cut in it for air circulation, than i place it outside in my weber grill at night with the vents open for air to circulate, its seems to be workin fine.. but what im wondering is, how do i properly seal a mason jar? do i need to stick it in hot water???? idk the directions on the back are REALLY confusing and for food,SO IF SOMEONE COULD HELP ME OUT, id REALLY APRICIATE IT!!!!  thanks guys n gals!!!....


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## Hick

..no... smoke'.. there is no need to vacuum seal it (hot water). "IMO".. Just make sure the lid has an undamaged, good rubber seal/ring, and snug it down well.


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## Reddy Kilowatt

You don't really need the rubber seal you just need to maintain the desired rh%.  If you guess at the moisture level with your fingers then you may need to use the gasket to seal to stop the water loss.  If you use a hygrometer and monitor the moisture level the small amount of breathing the jar does can be regulated by adding drops of water on a paper towel or propylene gel.
Long term storage (months) you would need the seal to make it easier to maintain your rh level.

Placing in the grill?????  You may pick up the trace odor or taste of the grill.


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## smokeup420

Reddy Kilowatt said:
			
		

> You don't really need the rubber seal you just need to maintain the desired rh%. If you guess at the moisture level with your fingers then you may need to use the gasket to seal to stop the water loss. If you use a hygrometer and monitor the moisture level the small amount of breathing the jar does can be regulated by adding drops of water on a paper towel or propylene gel.
> Long term storage (months) you would need the seal to make it easier to maintain your rh level.
> 
> Placing in the grill????? You may pick up the trace odor or taste of the grill.


 
MMMmMmM maybe itll taist like chicken, lol, iv smelled it n w.e still have very strong smell of fresh nature. no charcol smell of nuthin.and i thought you dont want any water in the jar since it would cause mold right?? so i dont really get wat ur sayin about the hygrometer and adding small drops of water.plus idont even know what that is lol.but yea someone told me mason is just for storing long periods of time.. so really i just need a jar wilth a good lid with good seal ring right?? n i burp it a few times a day...


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## smokeup420

bustabus said:
			
		

> yesterday i harvested my tiny lady . I trimmed as much leafs as i could. I then hung it in my closet. I was wondering if i could cut the buds off the stem tommorrow and put them in my jar. The last time i harvested i just left them in my closet for 3 or 4 days and it was crispy dry. Will putting the buds in the jar stop this from happening again or am i missing a step thanks


 
 are the buds dry n kinda crunchy.. remember(thanks to these friendly peopel on here) if u put wet/semi wet bud in a jar, ur askin for mold to grow.just hangem for 4-5 days, brown bag it if u want/have to. than jar it.I read somwhere the dryer you bud the more potent it is!!!! idk if thats true or not


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## smokeup420

Kathi97502 said:
			
		

> what's wrong with storing bud in gallon size baggies? most of my buddies say that's how they store their stash. My problem is that first I noticed that my buds were getting so dry that they were crumbling into "shake" and losing "weight". Someone suggested putting orange peel in bag. I did that (and forgot I did until next day!) I then put mess into brown bag to dry it out again some. Now I am afraid there is some mold, but not sure due to orange smell! I sampled it and it taste great and got me up and scrubbing walls lol. Question is: what's wrong with storing in gallon baggie?? Thanks, Kathi


 kathi next time u gots some dry bud, get a airtight container take a peice of bread/ or another nug thats wet and stickem in there, the next day the dry bud would have obsorded the moistur of the other one.


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## mojavemama

Any advice on harvesting in an extremely dry climate? We have about 7% relative humidity most of the time. Indoors, we have air conditioning and thus, also low humidity. So whether I hang them inside or out, the humidity is naturally very low. I do have a humidifier, and wondered if I should use it to up the humidity while curing.


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## AlbinoDanko12GA

so cut the braches and hang them and then cut leafs off then throw in a paper bag to finish off then go ahead and throw it in the jar, did i get that right????


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## aslan king

The jar part is important. That is how you get the moisture out of the center of the bud. Hanging can make the outside dry but that is deceptive. 

I put mine in rubbermaid containers with airtight lids, kinda opauqe. When the moisture builds up on the walls and the lid, I open it to air out, about twice a day for two weeks, than once a day for two weeks. Much better smoke. 

You can even taste a difference if you pick buds out during the process. 

Heard a rumor about a great grower that freeze dried his but nothing to back it up. earch here and couldn't find anything.


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## AlbinoDanko12GA

so wat do u do, hang it for 3 - 5 days and then throw it in your rubbermaid containers??


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## SDotee

So overall from what I've read.... It should go like this:

Trim off large fan leaves
Hang upside down in dark until outside is nice and dry (3-7 days?)
Cut off nugs and put into paper bag for 3 days to 2 weeks (fluff everyday)
Place dried nugs into mason jars venting 2x/day for 1st week, 1x/day 2nd week.
Should be A-Ok for long term storage now?

Tips I've read: 
When fluffing/venting check for mold I ( smells like piss).
Mason jars tightly sealed in dark spot are good long-term storage containers.
A nug thats ready should snap the middle stem when bent.


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## Mutt

I skip the paper bag step 
goes right into jars and i open em up every day for the first week give em a shake...let air out a bit. 2nd week do less...3rd week even less...until 1 month then maybe 1x a week tops. long term lil bag of silicate and never open until ready to start toking it.
Take a bud and stash it for a year..  you'll be pleasantly suprised the difference. 
I prefer a long long cure if my patience will allow.


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## seyaat420

what about hawaii, its hella humide here usesally you have to use a dehumidifire to cure buds, I need help what sound I do here?,,

if I put the cut buds in a mason jar for more than an hour they will get moldy,,,,,chris


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## smokingjoe

Do you have a fan forced oven?


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## Kweedybud

*  If you just take a damp piece,wad of paper towel or tissue in the dry product,it will moisten it. That way you can control the moisture. If it's too damp,squeeze some moisture out. With peals,chunk's of apples, you may have to do more drying. I personally don't know if repeated drying is good but it don't sound good.*


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## blondeboy

Instead of using a paper bag approach in the second step, I like using an old cigar box that adds some charater to mine. I leave a couple of my favorite cigars within, and place my marijuana inside for a rich vintage smell. The remaining aroma from cigars gives the marijuana a heavenly taste. Wooden barrels are used to mature wine and marijuana is best when maturing in a cigar box, made from wood. If done properly, you can smoke it secretly in public because it doesn&#8217;t give out that disguising marijuana smell.  Try this approach, and it will rock your world!


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## Smot_poker

but that marijuana smell is what i like to inhale!!!!!


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## DynaGlideGuy

blondeboy said:
			
		

> Instead of using a paper bag approach in the second step, I like using an old cigar box that adds some charater to mine. I leave a couple of my favorite cigars within, and place my marijuana inside for a rich vintage smell. The remaining aroma from cigars gives the marijuana a heavenly taste. Wooden barrels are used to mature wine and marijuana is best when maturing in a cigar box, made from wood. If done properly, you can smoke it secretly in public because* it doesnt give out that disguising marijuana smell*. Try this approach, and it will rock your world!


 

As opposed to that Cigar smell and taste.  

I for one will pass, I enjoy the taste of the Fruit of my Labor.

Best wishes
"P"


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## FUM

"Disguising marijuana smell". What's up with that remark blondeboy???My MJ smell is haft the job in curring. I look forward to the smell and stinking up the whole house.


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## dirtyolsouth

I thought my meds were supposed to cure ME! 


:laugh: :rofl: :laugh: :rofl: :laugh: :rofl: :laugh:


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## sundancer245

i rehydrate dry weed by putting it into a airtight container with a small bowl of water inside with the buds and sealing it up for 3-5 hours and the buds are moist again without altering the taste


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## peacock

Is a green light safe to use while checking your bud.  I left a green light (40watts) on for a while.


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## tokinherper

could you speed the drying process by useing a dehydrator? or would that harm the product or over dry?


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## bshack79

i have heard if you want to quick dry a nug put it in the oven on 150 degrees for about 10 minutes.. this doesn't destroy the thc as if you were to microwave it or something.. if you need a quick dry... i prefer to wait and do it right myself


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## SMoKING_65

When I sat down and talked to DJ short about this method, he told me that people noticed the brown bad may start to draw out some of the smell from the buds so he recommended only a day or so with the bag folded several times and small holes cut in the top. This will shorten the cure time without rushing it. I hope my expirences will help/


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## SMoKING_65

tokinherper said:
			
		

> could you speed the drying process by useing a dehydrator? or would that harm the product or over dry?



no using a dehumidifier is recommended.  Only to keep your relative humidity at the appropriate levels 40-55%. Remember it takes 12 days for the chlorophyll to break down in the dark so do not rush your buds. and do not exposes them to light in the first 12 days


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## SMoKING_65

peacock said:
			
		

> Is a green light safe to use while checking your bud.  I left a green light (40watts) on for a while.



no. a 40w is not really safe because it is not a pure green spectrum, unless you are working for NASA and have a 40w green LED. otherwise, get a low watt LED from your local grow store


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## SensiStarFan

hey 65, the last post from this thread was over a year ago, just a heads up.

-SSF-


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## dirtyolsouth




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## SMoKING_65

SensiStarFan said:
			
		

> hey 65, the last post from this thread was over a year ago, just a heads up.
> 
> -SSF-


Thats funny, thanks. My head is now up.:holysheep:


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## PartyBro420

scm59 said:
			
		

> hello dj,
> lets just call me gretal, because that is what I call my pride and joy.  have you ever tried a cigar box humidor to first hang your plants?




The person that originally posted this will probably never read it... But a Humidor does exactly the opposite thing you're trying to do with drying your buds. You add water to a humidor so cigars don't dry out and flake apart. Removing moisture is what you're trying to do in this stage.


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## Maximlis

Thanks for the information. Its working properly.


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## Capone

Don't ever use the microwave method or the oven method! my advice, leave it in a dark room and forget about it for least a week. Smoke to alleviate the anxiety, it'll be well worth it.


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## surfinc

octobong007 said:
			
		

> one year?  i couldn't do it.


:yeahthat:   :48:


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## Danbridge

HGB said:
			
		

> 4 to 6 months    most mine goes 1 year before i smoke it



I found out through experience, that it takes about 2-2 and half months to cure in the jar for peak ripeness. After 6 months, the THC value begins to degrade and after a year it's practically schwag.


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## MiGrowB

oh wow thanks for all this info I am sure it has and will be useful for noobs I am a noob to the site


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## Joe420Camel

lolaju said:


> I'll recommend you this post
> http://greenparrotseeds.com/semilla...de-secado-manicurado-y-curado-de-la-marihuana



really? you going to spam every thread with green parrot seeds posts/links?

 I'm all for sharing but...


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## lyfespan

Joe420Camel said:


> really? you going to spam every thread with green parrot seeds posts/links?
> 
> I'm all for sharing but...



That's what the reputation and report buttons are for, I hate spammers.


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## lyfespan

Danbridge said:


> I found out through experience, that it takes about 2-2 and half months to cure in the jar for peak ripeness. After 6 months, the THC value begins to degrade and after a year it's practically schwag.



Mines holding steady, try using the boveda pax, keep meds fresh for years


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## deadkndys

I personally use a drying tek this guy at a forum I frequent wrote. Great write up imo. You'll need to make a account to see it as its in his 'journal'.

http://www.growery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/704754#704754


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## 000StankDank000

Deadkndy you must be a member of that forum to view your link.


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## deadkndys

Heres a copy and paste without pics. You need to make a account to see the tek with pics.



> The key to the entire curing process is to get the buds to the perfect moisture level. We use the word "dry" to distinguish smokable bud from freshly harvested bud, but "dry" is not the correct word for what we want. What we really want is for our "dry" bud to be somewhat moist and spongy-- more so than what you would expect from "dry" bud.
> 
> Traditionally its always been difficult to accurately gauge the proper moisture level of the buds and get them into the curing jars at just the right time. The solution has been to open and close the jars over the next few days to allow the excess moisture to escape and redistribute until approximately dry. As you can imagine it can be painstakingly difficult dealing with multiple jars just to finish drying the buds out or just knowing when the curing starts. If left closed too long you risk mold, too little and you dry out too fast. Even with a hygrometer in every jar you still need to keep close eye on them.
> 
> This method serves to eliminate any questionable decisions you need to make about proper moisture levels. There is a clearly defined drying phase and curing phase that makes this method simple to follow. Humidity levels are kept in check with 2-way moisture control packs so that you can ease the bud right to the proper moisture level prior to curing it. It makes drying the buds a breeze without the need for a hygrometer, as the humidity packs do a lot of the work for you.
> 
> The basic idea is that you want to dry the buds slowly over the course of about 7-10 days until mostly dry then let it sit sealed for 7 days to redistribute moisture and finish drying. Then placing the buds into jars to start the cure phase.
> 
> Phase 1: Primary drying and trimming
> Phase 2: Secondary drying and de-stemming
> Phase 3: Final drying and moisture control
> Phase 4: Curing
> 
> 7-10 days till smokeable, 7 days to smooth out and develop flavor. Curing takes as long as you want and will bring out the best of the buds in about two months.
> ---
> 
> Materials:
> 
> Freshly harvested bud
> Hangers
> Large paper bags (lawn and garden or paper grocery bags)
> Large trash bags (black, thicker is better for durability)
> -or Rubbermaid containers with a tight seal.
> Boveda 62% humidity packs. 60g and 8g packs.
> Storage Jars
> Masking tape/labels or Sharpie
> Patience
> 
> ---
> 
> 
> Phase 1: Primary drying and trimming
> 
> Temperature in the room about mid-60's to mid-70's with 50-60% humidity works well. 40% is a little low but can be fine in the very first few days. Otherwise they will dry unevenly/too fast. The season has a profound effect on drying times, with summer being the hardest season to dry slowly in.
> 
> You can trim your buds wet or dry, but not in between. Wet trimming is fun and gets you nice creamy moist scissor hash that you don't quite get when you trim it dry. Wet trimmed bud dries faster so you need to pay closer attention to it.
> 
> 
> If wet, trim your buds well then hang them up for a few days (about 3-5) until they are feeling a little dry on the outside but the stems still bend, maybe the smallest of small stems will snap. Then once they started to get crispy but still a lot of moisture in the stems I put them in large paper bags that are inside plastic trash bags. This is a good time to cut the hooks on the stems that you left for hanging, they tend to get in the way and make it harder to maneuver. I leave the stems as long as possible.
> 
> Leaving the stems long serves three purposes: enhanced flavor from passing more moisture through the buds and evaporating chlorophyll and whatnot, slowing the dry time and it keeps the buds fluffed up so that they are not all smashed together.
> 
> If 'dry' trimming you'll probably save some time in scissor work (maybe 40% less time to trim the equivalent wet bud). Chop the plants down and hang them upside down for a few days until the shade leaves are mostly dry and the bud is starting to feel slightly dry, basically the same moisture levels as in the wet trimmed bud--its not going to be dry bud, but the leaf should either break off from being dry or easily cut off. If you try and trim too early when the leaf your trying to remove is wet but not fresh the scissors will gum up--the same reason you don't mow wet grass. Leaving the leaf on will add a few days of the first phase.
> 
> One theory is that when you trim wet you get chlorophyll that oozes out of the wounds and gives you more of a grass or hay taste.
> 
> I'm going to focus on only trimming 'dry' bud for the reduced work and slower dry time. Its also easier to transition to the next phase because the slower drying gives you a larger window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phase 2: Secondary drying and de-stemming
> 
> 
> The paper bags were about 3' tall so I had to chop them down to size.
> 
> Over the next few days I open and close both bags to slowly suck the moisture out of the buds and int the air. Basically just working the moisture out slowly using the paper bag as a wick/buffer/barrier so they don't touch plastic when wet and can dry out slowly by not having direct contact with the air when the plastic is open.
> 
> 
> As they dry out I close the plastic for a bit, maybe just loosely tucked but for the most part sealed, or only slightly opened. As time goes on you need to open the bags for shorter periods, and close them for longer. Until they are sticky moist and the stems bend but are starting to make a sound when snapping but not actually snapping.
> 
> For even drying I flip the buds by hand every once in awhile and kind of break them apart to make sure there is good even spacing around the buds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've started using rigid containers that lock the lid in place. This does a good seal but not sealed completely, which is fine for these phases. Its also easier taking the paper bag out in order to dry from all sides if needed.
> 
> Its important that the first two drying phases take at least a week, otherwise they dry out too fast or too much. The basic idea is that you don't want the buds to ever get crispy dry on the outside once you put them in the paper bags, but rather stay soft and just lose water weight and stay feeling spongy.  Which is almost impossible btw, so don't worry just don't let them get too crispy. Right when the buds start to feel crispy they need a flip and maybe sealed for awhile. Its important you learn to make these judgment calls.
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that the closer to being dry the faster and more often it will crisp up and need to be flipped and sealed to redistribute the moisture. WALK the moisture out of the buds. Flipping by hand can give you a good understanding of where your moisture level is at. When you flip the buds feel the bottom of the paper bag to see if its moist. If it is then I take it out of the plastic to dry. The paper bag will feel slightly cool and is more pliable when moist and is a good indicator of where the buds are at.
> 
> After about 5-7 days of drying (few days in the bag) I'll cut out some of the excess stem away to speed the drying process up a bit. Cutting them down to shorter lengths so they sit closer, basically cutting a lot of the stretched portion of the stem but leaving a few inches of stem around the buds.  At this point the bud stem will be drying out to where less moisture will travel through it from the main stem. Remember, not breaking off, but barely making noise on some, some not on all. They will not feel wet, but moist/sticky.
> 
> This is about when its time to start using the Boveda 60g inside the paper bag to prevent the buds from drying too fast or the bag from becoming excessively humid. If you were the master you would be able to open/close/flip for just the right amount of time exactly when it needed it and you could skip the Boveda. Unfortunately its hard to master and getting that perfect dry down is almost impossible--sometimes only having a window of 20 or 30 minutes of being at that perfect moisture level. You need to worry about leaving it open for too long of a period and becoming too unevenly dry--crispy on the outside but moist in the middle. Sometimes the crispy part will never re-moisten properly.
> 
> The Boveda may eventually become optional for you, or seasonal as conditions demand. They're not essential to getting the moisture proper, but they do so much work for you that it allows you to get a little lazy and not be so attentive.
> 
> Summer drying is considerably much faster and you'll benefit using them to slow down the drying time, whereas winter drying might take 10 days of hanging before its ready to go to the second, bag phase
> 
> 
> Here you can see the branch not breaking away from the main stem but still cracking when bent back.
> 
> Finally within a few days I chop almost all the stems off and let it sit sealed with the Boveda 62% 60gram humidity packs. At this point the buds will mostly be snapping off the main stem with ease but still be spongy moist themselves.
> 
> The colas I leave long with a little extra stem so I can check its moisture level later, as well as any buds that are very close to each other on a stem will be left connected. Once a bud is able to snap from the main stem, even if the main stem is moist, it wont take any more moisture from the main stem.
> 
> It gets flipped and felt for moisture level, opened for a bit if needed. The Boveda gets removed and put into Tupperware to extend its life but if it feels cool after sitting around the buds I'll let it shed that excess moisture. The buds will still feel moist and the stems will start to snap, but they do not all need to, the larger one's can have some bend in it.
> 
> 
> It can be tricky getting the larger and smaller buds to the same moisture level, but the slower you go and then start chopping the stems down to get the buds closer together to form more of a single mass they will dry more evenly. You should be able to seal the plastic bag (with Boveda) for 12 hours without the buds moisture changing too much, if at all.
> 
> 
> 
> Phase 3: Final drying and moisture control
> 
> 
> After you can seal in the paper bag for 12 hours without the buds feeling like they're re-moistening, the final drying phase is to open the paper bags for a few minutes and fluff the buds up to get that final breath before sealing them up for a week with the Boveda 60g; if they feel the right amount of sticky.
> 
> The large colas might have the main stem pliable but still cracking when bent and still stringy-connected if you tried to rip it off. Mostly all regular buds on a stem should be able to be snapped right off by hand with ease from the main stem but the nugs on the large colas might bend back a little.  If the large colas are almost dry then your about perfect. You should be able to smoke some sample nugs with no problem before sealing it up.
> 
> They'll be very close to perfect moisture content, and usually you get a really small window of really dank tasting moist bud around this time. Right when its dry enough to smoke it taste super bomb, then it fully dries and looses some flavor for awhile before it comes back in with the cure.
> 
> 
> Fold the paper bag to remove as much air and squeeze the air out of the plastic then seal it up (I just twisted the end and tucked it underneath) and don't touch it for seven days. The Rubbermaid containers don't seem to seal as well for this phase, but still work fine. I don't recommend them for any much longer as they still seem to continue drying.
> 
> 
> 
> The buds will not feel crisp dry but spongy-moist. Breaking it up by hand will be nice and easy and the inside stems should snap right open. I like using the grinder as a test, as properly grown(structure, flush) and cured(moisture, flavor) buds will grind up with little to no ease and you get to see how it holds up, too dry and its powder, too moist and it won't grind all the way. When you take a pinch of ground bud it should hold itself together in a larger pinch than you anticipated. If you were to step on a bud it should smash it flat and stay together.
> 
> Congratulations, you've dried your buds properly! Its usually nice to let the bud sit out for a few minutes to release any excess moisture and bring out the flavor--like fine wine the bud needs to breath. I think the 62% is a bit high for smoking but any less seems like you'd be sacrificing the cure on the buds.
> 
> 
> 
> Phase 4: Curing
> 
> 
> Fill your jars all the way up with buds and toss a medium 8gram Boveda humidity pack up against the glass in the middle for even distribution. After a week I remove the lids and let it sit open for about five minutes. Immediately smell the jars as you open them and watch out for any indication of Ammonia. This is an indication that you did not dry the buds all the way prior to jarring and will need to make sure they are not molding or over moist. I've never had that problem myself, but its something to look out for. I maybe check it again in a week to make sure. Burping should not be needed after that.  You should be able to seal it up for over a year and the buds should still be as moist as the day you put them in.
> 
> If dried properly the 8g Boveda will not be needed, but are nice to keep the buds from drying out when pulling from the jar.
> 
> Label: Strain, date, weight. I separate a few of the best ounces and mark them with a little symbol and save those for last. Fold a little bit of the masking tape over on itself to leave a handle so you can peel the label off with ease--the glue gets harder with age and will often leave a crusty residue.
> 
> Sharpie markers for glass are ideal since they easily wipe off with a little rubbing alcohol. For my dark jars I use the metallic sharpies as they give very good contrast--Bought a three pack of bronze/silver/gold for $3.
> 
> 
> 
> The smoke might still be a little harsh at first but the flavor will come in over the next week or two in the jar, and will creep to full flavor in about two months. After about a month you'll smoke it one day and think "damn, did this bud just get better all of a sudden?" It will continue to cure until the buds take on a brown tone as the crystals age and the buds lose its green color. The longest I've been able to cure a bud was 11 months and it took the flavor to the next level. Thicker, fuller and very smooth.
> 
> 
> 11 month bud, the top of the main cola.
> 
> 
> 2 month cure. Signs of green/chlorophyll fading.
> 
> 
> 1 week cure. Fresh and green still.
> 
> 
> The basic idea behind curing is that you want the plants aerobic microbes to finish the buds off. They break down things like chlorophyll to give you a smoother smoke. THC also gets converted to its active form as time goes on. I'm not going into the details behind it all, but there is more to it than just letting it get older. If you do not create the right environment for the microbes to do their job they will not be able to cure the bud, it will just get older.
> 
> The three things you want to avoid when preserving anything are: Light, Heat and Oxygen. They breakdown everything. Its why you've heard so many things needing to be stored sealed in cool dark location. Bud is no different, so make sure to take that into account and store your buds properly. A zip-lock bag will not do. They say curing must be done in a jar.
> 
> The jars I use are I-Chem 950mL amber glass chemical storage jars (type 3 not certified/inspected but the exact same jar as type 1 and 2.) They have them on Amazon, they fluctuate in price every few days. I paid $40 for the set of 12 when the price dropped, but now that I know I will get the next box when they're back down to $36 again. Last week it was $36 when I started this post now they're $65... DON'T PAY TOO MUCH FOR THESE, just add it to your wish list and keep checking back. Shipping should be free. ~$3 per jar is a great price. The only problem is that if your buds are too fat they can be a bit hard getting them in and out of the 1.75" opening. I do have that problem but have a 2.5L from I-chem jar for the top colas.
> 
> 
> 
> These I-Chem jars work great and were made to seal chemicals in. The lids have Teflon gaskets built in which beats the paper one's that wear out or get destroyed when wet. The box they come in works well for storing them as well. I just put a few pieces of Velcro on the lid to keep the flaps down and when a jar is empty it goes upside down. Its also nice having a case of chronic.
> 
> With the proper moisture level you end up getting WAY more bud weight out of it. Your light harvest might very well be due to over drying. My jars normally would hold about an ounce each, but with the proper moisture they're holding 52g each.
> 
> The real key is the Boveda humidity packs with two way humidity control--up and down. I used multiple 60g packs on the larger quantities of bud, but each one is suppose to be good for 1-300g I think. Plus they are not in there for the whole time and were not worn out. I expect these to last quite awhile, just storing them in a Tupperware container until I need them again. I can feel the corners starting to get hard on a few of them but there is still a lot of liquid left.
> 
> 
> At ~$4 each they are extremely cheap for what they do. The medium 8g are about $1 each in packs of 12. Bud weight alone will pay for them if you've still not got the art of the perfect moisture level. You can get the plants dried right without the Boveda but because they operate both ways they allow you a little bit of error. The 62% was made specifically for cannabis.
> 
> 
> .
> 826g of nicely dried bud. I only did that for the photo and they got a little dried out, but the jars with the 8g Boveda brings them to the perfect moisture level. Next time I'll just jar directly out of the bags individually, I would not recommend leaving the buds out in the open at this point. They will start to feel much dryer within 5 minutes.
> 
> 
> I recommend this article on curing to give you an idea of the science behind drying and curing buds. I had known the idea behind drying and curing but wasn't overly good at it. The article is simple yet very informative; it was after reading it that I was motivated to achieve that perfect cure.
> 
> Curing starts with the perfect moisture level or doesn't start at all. Curing is the easy part, you just smoke bowls while the jars sit, its the prep work that goes into it that is what you need to master.
> 
> Some bud will not show its true flavor until it's cured for 2 months. Bubble Gum for example was good but not great when I grew it. However after smoking a nug that I cured for 2 months I was really disappointed that I had already got rid of the plant.
> 
> 
> Curing really brings out the full potential of the bud, from the way it feels and sounds when it breaks up to how smooth it smokes, tastes and burns. There is a huge smell difference between opening a jar of dank bud and a jar of dank bud that was dried and cured right. So if your buds are good but still lacking, trying giving them a proper cure and keeping them from drying out too much too fast, you'll see a world of difference.


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## cannamind

Thanks a bunch for this nice piece of info


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