# growing upside down



## Sin inc (Nov 22, 2006)

hey fam doing reseach and came across some wierd stuff tought i should show yall

Upside Down Pot  A challenge to gravity! These pots are turning the world of plants upside down


http://ourhouse.ninemsn.com.au/ourh...use/images/factsheets/ep38_9_1_fin.jpg&zoom=3http://ourhouse.ninemsn.com.au/ourh...use/images/factsheets/ep38_9_1_fin.jpg&zoom=3These planter pots actually hang upside down, with the plant growing from the bottom. The manufacturer of these Down Under Pots claims that the watering and fertilising of plants is more efficient. This is because the root system is directly fertilised, unlike normal pots. 

Herbs grown in these pots also remain clean. When they are ready to be picked you don't have to worry about soil, slugs, cat or dog mess! Comprehensive instructions come with these pots.

1
Tuck the coconut fibre mat, which comes with the pot, under the wire (wire end is at the bottom of the pot). This closes the hole at the wire end of the pot, preventing the potting mix from falling through the opening in this initial planting process.

2
Fill the pot fairly firmly with a good quality potting mix and be sure to press the potting mix in behind the inverted rim.

3
Plant a seedling or young plant into the potting mix and leave in this position for a couple of weeks, watering normally and allowing the plant to establish itself. As the root system grows, it anchors onto the inverted rim of the pot.

4
Now turn the pot upside down and hang it by the wire which is already attached to the pot. Water and fertilise the plant through the top of the pot. The inverted rim serves both as an anchor for the root system and also as a reservoir, catching water right where the plant needs it most, at the roots. The plant will naturally grow up and around the pot towards the sun. 



Cost
$15 - $34 (plus postage if by mail order) Price depends on size and finish.

*Topsy Turvey II - Upside Down Tomato Planter      
*


Seeing is believing. Upside down tomato plants? That's the Topsy Turvey. The 3-Ply UV-resistant gro-bag holds enough potting mix for incredibly dense root systems. The hanging system is made of stainless steel aviation cable and a 360 degree swivel attachment is included.

http://ourhouse.ninemsn.com.au/ourh...use/images/factsheets/ep38_9_1_fin.jpg&zoom=3http://ourhouse.ninemsn.com.au/ourh...use/images/factsheets/ep38_9_1_fin.jpg&zoom=3


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## Elephant Man (Nov 23, 2006)

HGB has done this with MJ, says he's gonna do it again and promised me pics:dancing:


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## Tom 'Green' Thumb (Nov 23, 2006)

Seems kind of silly to me - but to each their own.  It would be cool to see someone do it with pot, just for kicks.

TGT


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## Sin inc (Nov 23, 2006)

come on guys its think about a hydro soil system. in a hyrdo system you feed the roots right. same think here. you would not have to worry about overwatering becuse the roots are at the top. i would set it up like this. 

put up malar in a 5x2 space space where then hang about four pots and put the lights on the ground. i would have to just rise the plants from the light. i would make a fame so i could cut about half of the space and make frame with  all malar on one side cut out 4 holes so that the plants could fit thought. so that way just the plant would be in the space and not the pots. more light direct root feeding your plants. easy and clean plus only the plant take up light


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## turfsire (Nov 23, 2006)

seems pretty cool but tomatos marijuana are two different things..i get the concept though..it would be cool if some one done it on marijuna passion with pics seeing is believing..


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## Elephant Man (Nov 23, 2006)

Elephant Man said:
			
		

> HGB has done this with MJ, says he's gonna do it again and promised me pics:dancing:


 
Seems like nobody saw this so I will post it again.  Check his medical grow journal.

Sin: Why just on the roof?  Run some cooltubes with no reflector and have them on the roof and floor.


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## cranky (Nov 23, 2006)

yep,my brother hgb has done this a few times....the roots will grow right through the medium.roots will go where theres moisture to feed from 

cranky


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## HGB (Nov 23, 2006)

I have located a few pics as well as the thread i did on this on another site under a different name......

if any one wants a link no problem.... I didnt get to finish the grow do to health reasons, but yes i will do this again...

looks like most pics are still there  

grow on


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## bombbudpuffa (Nov 23, 2006)

HGB, did you have to raise the plants a lil higher from the lights since heat rises or keep them about the same distance in an orthodox grow? Just curious if rising heat is a factor in this method.


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## HGB (Nov 23, 2006)

bombbudpuffa said:
			
		

> HGB, did you have to raise the plants a lil higher from the lights since heat rises or keep them about the same distance in an orthodox grow? Just curious if rising heat is a factor in this method.



Didnt get that far into the grow to know soz... plan was for 1750 watts of hps but health issue's and mites took there toll and had to scub the grow a few weaks in  

grow on


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## Sin inc (Dec 11, 2006)

*Growing Tomatoes Upside Down?
An Alternative Garden Plan
By Kathi Morris*

We've been growing our tomatoes upside-down for the past three years and really have fun growing them this way!  We also grow tomatoes in the ground, and, by comparison, the ones in the upside-down buckets seem to have a little better yield than the same varieties grown in the ground.  I attribute it to the fact that the branches have less stress while growing, and have better air circulation.  Of course, you have to grow smaller varieties or ones that are suited for container growing, or the yields will be less.  We've experimented with growing peppers and have found that sweet bells do not do good because the branches break very easily.  Varieties such as Cayenne, Tabasco, or ones that produce small fruit, will grow fine.   
You can grow tomatoes in any large container that has a sturdy hanging system, but we've found the safest is to use five-gallon paint buckets that have a handle.  Planting them in the buckets is much easier and safer for the plants when you have one or two other people helping you.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




*Instructions for Planting*

Start out by drilling a hole in the bottom of the bucket.  Usually, there is already a circular indentation, which is approx. 2 ½" in diameter.  If there isn't, drill the hole between 2 and 3 inches in diameter.  Set the bucket, right side up, on a structure such as two wooden horses, so that the bottom hole is exposed.  Put whatever material you choose to use to secure the seedling, in the bottom, then take the seedling and gently thread    the leaves and stems down through the hole so that it hangs out of the bottom of the bucket.  Hold the plant up till no more than 2 inches of the stem is protruding out from the bottom.  
While holding the plant in one hand, pack the material around the stem so that the plant is anchored and will not slip through the hole.  There are several things that can be used to keep the seedling from "slipping out" of
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 the hole until the root system has developed and it can hold it's own.  You can use sphagnum moss, newspaper, coffee filters, etc. 
Keep holding the plant in place, and add the soil into the bucket, making sure it's distributed evenly up to the root ball.  Gently let go of the plant, letting it rest on the dirt, and add soil till the root ball is about 2 inches below the soil line.  Add about 2 cups of compost, then fill the bucket with soil up to about an inch from the top.  
Carry the bucket to the structure you are going to hang it from, being very careful to keep the tomato plant from hitting the ground as you walk.  Hang the bucket by the handle, then water thoroughly.  Water should start running out of the bottom hole within a few minutes. 





Check the soil level of each bucket to be sure the soil didn't settle to more than 2 inches from the top, adding more if it has.  Water and add fertilizer, when needed, directly in the top of the bucket.  You can also grow "living mulch" like parsley or other herbs, in the top portion of the dirt, but be sure you water the bucket sufficiently so that the water gets to the tomato plant's' roots.  Some herbs, such as oregano or marjoram, become too thick to allow the water to penetrate quick enough into the soil.  
Keeping a lid set on, but not tightly sealed, the tops of the buckets will help prevent moisture loss, but can be a problem since they have to be moved every time you water.  Depending on what type of watering system you come up with, will depend on whether or not the lids are used.  We've always set the lids on top of the structure, above the buckets (approx. a foot above the rim), and watered the buckets with a hose.  The lids don't help much with the moisture retention, but it does help deflect rain in the extremely rainy season. 
How much to water the buckets will depend on your climate.  We live in Missouri where it is very wet in the spring, and the sun is intense in summer.  We water the buckets every day from the third week of June until two weeks before the first frost.  
One interesting thing that will happen when you grow your tomato plants this way is that they will grow upwards towards the sun until the plants get bigger and bushier and start producing fruit.  You have to check them daily to be sure that the stem is growing out from under the bottom, not into it.  
Every few weeks, check the soil level to be sure there has not been too much loss.  Add soil or compost each time the level lowers. 
_Text and ALL pictures are Copyright 2003 Kathi Morris._
*About the author:
*   Kathi lives in the St. Louis area and is a member of the Bridgeton Historical Commission.  She is the sole proprietor of the Payne-Gentry medicinal herb garden in Bridgeton, MO. and also volunteers for the St. Louis County Parks by helping maintain the herb gardens at Faust Park.  She is a self-taught herbalist and an avid heirloom gardener, a wife and new grandmother.


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