# sunblaze 8 bulb t5



## seagull (Apr 15, 2009)

thinking about another sunblaze light fixture, it has 8, four foot t5 bulbs, combined at 432 watts, and 40000 lumens total, at 6500 kelvin.....   thinking it would enough to veg plants that sit directly under it?


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## NYC_Diesel x Jack_Herer (Apr 15, 2009)

it really depends on how many plants you need to veg, and to what size you want to be able to veg them to.  You are also talking about adding one, what else do you have?


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## UKgirl420 (Apr 15, 2009)

*:yeahthat:  also as long as you have 5000 lumens minimum per sq ft you should be good eace:*


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## uptosumpn (Apr 16, 2009)

Ok, so I just purchased 3 sunblaze light systems.....two 8 bulb & one 4 bulb... what do u think about using two 4' 8 bulb each HO T5 fluorecsent 3000k warm red bulb systems for entire flowering cycle??? (@ 5000 lumens ea bulb, using 16 blubs total, that would equal out to 80,000 lumens, which is also equivilent to a 600HPS, (80,000-90,000 lumens) I also wanna get six 4' single strip HO T5's, (warm red also) and lay those on the floor parallel to the plants in each row for additional side & underneath lighting..as well as four 2' HO T5 6500k daylight single strips in all four corners @ 2000 lumens ea. these will add an additional 38,000 lumens for a total of 118,000 lumens!!! [[i know, i know, @ 54 watts a bulb x 22 warm red bulbs = 1,188 watts...which is more than a 1000HPS....., effiency wise the 1000Hps would be smarter choice and get more lumens, (140,000) but remember HEAT & FLIR is what i am trying to avoid right now!!!!]] which is the main reason for using this type set-up...I am trying to have the lowest radiant heat emmiting in my grow tent, (56" x 56" x 78.75" ie; almost 25sf) growing 20-25 autos in 3 gallon bags,(6.5"w x 7"d x 13"h) that will be in my garage! (btw i live in hot *** S. Fla. the summer is approaching) and yes, i know HPS is better, and I know how to cool the lights, ect, ect, but security is #1 priority where I am currently livin, and i want to go with a 600HPS or 1000HPS but to cool the light, run ducting, ect is too much for now, plus I will still be using garage to park a car, and i dont want anybody to see ducting all over the place....so whatta you peeps think??? will it work?


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## seagull (Apr 16, 2009)

i run the 8 bulb (4 footer) on clone tray and 1 mother, but, I use 6 blues and 2 reds for 18 hours, it gives a more complete spectrum, but of course heavier on the blue side.  the flouros on get the room temp up to 85 degrees, which is very easy to bring down to 74.  the hps can get a 4x4x8 area up to 140 degrees, yes, based on bad bad experience.  so.... the numbers look great on these 8 bulb systems, but they are not as bright and they dont penetrate down thru the plant as well, thus affecting yield.  i like them for only seedlings, clones, and a little veg.
I know that you like the lumens numbers, and they sound good, but those numbers are based on INITIAL lamp output, after awhile they dim.  hid is for flower, as the flouros are for veg.   its like driving by a car with the lights on bright vs. dim.  check out my thread "i cant grow"  those plants were started with a 1000 metal halide blue bulb, and then the pics were taken with the new sunblaze, after putting the sunblaze on them, the growth slowed, granted it was 1000w vs 432w. So then I started a new group of beans, different strain however, and they just did not respond like the hid plants.  the only sure way, take clones, same size, same mother, and grow under a 400 hid metal halide blue, and a identical batch under the sunblaze, there will the truth be found.  I like the 8 bulb system, because of the area coverage, and low heat,  but when it comes to making fruit, I say go with the high beams.  To make it simple, stare at a 400w hid, and then the 432 w sunblaze,  I bet you will see white spots sooner looking at the hid. I was excited when I saw these set ups too, but they just dont have the punch it takes to make big beautiful berries, but if you as u say are worried about heat, and can take the loss on fruit size, then you are on the right track,  the idea of the lamps underneath sounds good, but think about this, invest in some lattice or chicken wire, fabricate a way, (i was gonna use pvc as a frame for the chicken wire) to make a number of rows about 12 inchs apart (vertically), and stand them up, as high as you can in your tent, as the plant grows thread it in and out of the lattice or wire, and then in between these voids or rows that are 12 inchs apart, hang your t5 systems, they are designed to be hung either way.  so simply put, one vertical lattice, or chicken wire would be enough to thread a plant in and out, allowing the entire branch system to be exposed to light, the next row would be duplicated with another vertical system, so your plant will not be a bush, but rather a flat vetical panel of green, like a vine going up the side of a house. This was an idea I came up with to get the most out of low heat flouros.  It may make up for the difference in not using a bright hid and having a sea of green with fat tops, but a comparable overall weight with more fruit sites.  Less you forget it is being pounded by light on both sides. outside plants dont get that much light and the bottum branches still get shaded by the above growth

If it helps, the new batch from beans has grown 8 to 10 inchs in the last 2 weeks, and they are 3 weeks from sprout, under the sunblaze. also think about throwing 2 bulbs of the other color in, full spectrum is always the way to go, but heavy on the side for what you are trying to accomplish. disregard that, reread your reply, you are doing that, bravo!


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## BuddyLuv (Apr 16, 2009)

I veg under 3x 8 lamp t5's with great success.


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## uptosumpn (Apr 16, 2009)

Ok, I just re-read my own post and forgot to mention that the 4 bulb T5 system will have the blue bulbs for so-called vegging of 40 autos, ie; lowryders of different strains in 16oz cups...Now with that out of the way, i took everything in what you said, and the main part that got my attn. was when you mentioned about the initial lumens output reguarding HPS vs Floro's....remember i told you i know that the HPS the way to go, but I did mention I am growing "Autoflowering Plants", which will be under 18- 20 hrs of light, using Liquid Light foliar spray,< to magnify light intensity, which makes penatration more intense, as well as these floro's can be placed closer to the tops, (2"-4") than HPS could... and these plants wont get any bigger than 20" - 30" max.. I am looking to get about 1oz-2oz per plant dry. I figured with 22 warm red bulbs @ 5000 lumens ea. {16 on top and 6 on bottom in each row} with 4 daylight blue bulbs @ 2000 lumens ea. in each corner I assume I would get good light penatration from all angles on these small plants?? 

And you say try using chicken wire to spread the branches out for better light penatration?? Don't know about that, because i wont be able to move/rotate each plant and water/flush properly... 



			
				seagull said:
			
		

> i run the 8 bulb (4 footer) on clone tray and 1 mother, but, I use 6 blues and 2 reds for 18 hours, it gives a more complete spectrum, but of course heavier on the blue side. the flouros on get the room temp up to 85 degrees, which is very easy to bring down to 74. the hps can get a 4x4x8 area up to 140 degrees, yes, based on bad bad experience. so.... the numbers look great on these 8 bulb systems, but they are not as bright and they dont penetrate down thru the plant as well, thus affecting yield. i like them for only seedlings, clones, and a little veg.
> I know that you like the lumens numbers, and they sound good, but those numbers are based on INITIAL lamp output, after awhile they dim. hid is for flower, as the flouros are for veg. its like driving by a car with the lights on bright vs. dim. check out my thread "i cant grow" those plants were started with a 1000 metal halide blue bulb, and then the pics were taken with the new sunblaze, after putting the sunblaze on them, the growth slowed, granted it was 1000w vs 432w. So then I started a new group of beans, different strain however, and they just did not respond like the hid plants. the only sure way, take clones, same size, same mother, and grow under a 400 hid metal halide blue, and a identical batch under the sunblaze, there will the truth be found. I like the 8 bulb system, because of the area coverage, and low heat, but when it comes to making fruit, I say go with the high beams. To make it simple, stare at a 400w hid, and then the 432 w sunblaze, I bet you will see white spots sooner looking at the hid. I was excited when I saw these set ups too, but they just dont have the punch it takes to make big beautiful berries, but if you as u say are worried about heat, and can take the loss on fruit size, then you are on the right track, the idea of the lamps underneath sounds good, but think about this, invest in some lattice or chicken wire, fabricate a way, (i was gonna use pvc as a frame for the chicken wire) to make a number of rows about 12 inchs apart (vertically), and stand them up, as high as you can in your tent, as the plant grows thread it in and out of the lattice or wire, and then in between these voids or rows that are 12 inchs apart, hang your t5 systems, they are designed to be hung either way. so simply put, one vertical lattice, or chicken wire would be enough to thread a plant in and out, allowing the entire branch system to be exposed to light, the next row would be duplicated with another vertical system, so your plant will not be a bush, but rather a flat vetical panel of green, like a vine going up the side of a house. This was an idea I came up with to get the most out of low heat flouros. It may make up for the difference in not using a bright hid and having a sea of green with fat tops, but a comparable overall weight with more fruit sites. Less you forget it is being pounded by light on both sides. outside plants dont get that much light and the bottum branches still get shaded by the above growth
> 
> If it helps, the new batch from beans has grown 8 to 10 inchs in the last 2 weeks, and they are 3 weeks from sprout, under the sunblaze. also think about throwing 2 bulbs of the other color in, full spectrum is always the way to go, but heavy on the side for what you are trying to accomplish. disregard that, reread your reply, you are doing that, bravo!


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## NYC_Diesel x Jack_Herer (Apr 16, 2009)

If you are worried about heat you are going about this the wrong way.  CFL and fluoro's put out MORE HEAT PER WATT THAN HID LIGHTING.  You would be better off going with a HPS or Halide for less heat output per watt.  Check out Mutt's posting on Lighting, the sticky is in the lighting section.  Go with an HPS or two in a Cooltube and just vent outside the room.  You will have no heat issues and much bigger yields.  IF all of those fluro's you are using are not generating too much heat now, an equivelent HPS will be fine.


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## seagull (Apr 16, 2009)

ok, sorry, yes the shorter plants should do well under the flouro tubes, the wire thing is for taller bushier plants, be careful with the penetrator and liquid light mix, dont overuse it, the bottle says twice a week,  That stuff is strong, once a week is good, talk about burning leaves, if not done right, and most of all, only mix up enough spray for the that use, once the chemicals mix, the liquid light becomes no good the longer it sits,

your tanning bed (all angles) is an awesome idea, the plant grows towards the light, so it may just make your autos bushier than you anticipate, please tell us here how it goes for you


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## seagull (Apr 16, 2009)

NYC_Diesel x Jack_Herer said:
			
		

> If you are worried about heat you are going about this the wrong way. CFL and fluoro's put out MORE HEAT PER WATT THAN HID LIGHTING. You would be better off going with a HPS or Halide for less heat output per watt. Check out Mutt's posting on Lighting, the sticky is in the lighting section. Go with an HPS or two in a Cooltube and just vent outside the room. You will have no heat issues and much bigger yields. IF all of those fluro's you are using are not generating too much heat now, an equivelent HPS will be fine.


 
that sounds interesting, but all I know is that my dumb azz, almost burnt the building down with a hid in a 4x4x8, when the a/c tripped off, had no temp limit switch to kill the 1000w mh


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## uptosumpn (Apr 16, 2009)

Thanks for the great info bro...! and I only have the liquid light and did plan on using it only once a week...with all that said, do you think my set-up will work for what i'm trying to accomplish??? I saw the post before yours what dude said about CFL's  & Floro's generating more heat per wattage....is this true?? doesn't seem to make sense to me??....  



			
				seagull said:
			
		

> ok, sorry, yes the shorter plants should do well under the flouro tubes, the wire thing is for taller bushier plants, be careful with the penetrator and liquid light mix, dont overuse it, the bottle says twice a week, That stuff is strong, once a week is good, talk about burning leaves, if not done right, and most of all, only mix up enough spray for the that use, once the chemicals mix, the liquid light becomes no good the longer it sits,
> 
> your tanning bed (all angles) is an awesome idea, the plant grows towards the light, so it may just make your autos bushier than you anticipate, please tell us here how it goes for you


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## seagull (Apr 16, 2009)

i believe that all of the dutch master foilar spray series require the penetrator to not only help activate but to get it to be better absorbed in the leaves

my opinion on hid's: weither mh or hps they are always hotter, how many flouro systems do you see that require air cooled reflectors?
grandma has a 400 w switchable hid, that is way hotter than the 432 watt sunblaze, thats a fact


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## seagull (Apr 16, 2009)

BuddyLuv said:
			
		

> I veg under 3x 8 lamp t5's with great success.


 
thats what im talking about!!!   grandma wants to do the same!


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## uptosumpn (Apr 16, 2009)

Didn't know that about the penetrator.....that i needed it also....so u suggest i get it?? And that's my stong belief on the HID'S & MH bulbs also! that's the main reason with tis set-up!!!



			
				seagull said:
			
		

> i believe that all of the dutch master foilar spray series require the penetrator to not only help activate but to get it to be better absorbed in the leaves
> 
> my opinion on hid's: weither mh or hps they are always hotter, how many flouro systems do you see that require air cooled reflectors?
> grandma has a 400 w switchable hid, that is way hotter than the 432 watt sunblaze, thats a fact


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## BuddyLuv (Apr 16, 2009)

I have to disagree with the heat thing. I have done both and I can say a 
400w mh puts off way more heat then a 435w T5 set-up. If there was a way to cool a T5 unit I could run temps in the upper 50's low 60's during the winter, and that is without a continuious exhaust and intake. That is the only reason I run them, why pay more for a CFL when the MH is cheaper? Because it runs cooler.


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