# Using COCO Coir is Hydroponics.....



## Grower13 (Sep 28, 2016)

*I've had a few questions on how I grow. This is one of the best articles on coco I've ever seen. I use the chipped coco in my grows.
*

*Thinking of Trying Hydroponics? Then Try Coco Coir!                 *

                                                                                    Reusable, sustainable, easy-to-use and a  by-product of another industry? Could the ecological credentials of coco  coir be any better?                     
                      Okay so, unless you happen live in India or Sri  Lanka, chances are that the coco coir you use to grow your hydroponic  plants has been shipped many thousands of miles in order to reach you,  but as a hydroponic medium, coconut fiber not only boasts some great  ecological qualities but it also has outstanding water and air holding  capacity. It can hold eight to nine times its own weight in water  without becoming anaerobic-even when saturated it can still hold on to  around 22% air-beating even rockwool (around 10% air holding capacity.)  Coco coir is therefore a forgiving hydroponic medium, allowing roots  access to enough oxygen even when watered a little too enthusiastically  with a warm nutrient solution. This makes it the ideal choice for  beginners!
 Coco coir also boasts antifungal and root promoting properties. Coco  coir can suppress and protect plants from dreaded root diseases such as  pythium and phytophthora.
*Qualities of Coco Coir *



Coco has ideal pH in the range of 6-6.7
It holds 8 to 9 times its weight in water
It holds 22% air even when fully saturated!
It has excellent drainage and air porosity for better plant growth
The top layer always remains dry, leaving behind no chances of fungal growth
It never shrinks, cracks or produces crust
It aids in suppressing fungus gnats, to a degree
Excellent cation exchange
Its anti-fungal properties help plants to get rid of soil borne diseases (inhibits pathogens like phythium and phytophthora)
Extremely easy to re-hydrate after being dehydrated
It is a 100% renewable resource
Lightweight
Completely environmentally friendly
 *What's in the bag?*

 There are three parts to a good, commercially available coco coir  based growth medium: coco fiber, coco pith (coco peat), and chips. Each  confers its own benefits to your plants.
*Coco Pith*
 Think of coco pith / coco peat as the sponge-like component of the  mix. It looks like loose tea leaves and holds a large amount of water  but, because it is smaller, it facilitates much less capacity to hold  air. It is more lignin (woody) and decomposes very slowly. Properly  aged, it contains the complex that holds potassium and sodium until it  is fertilized and a stronger ion, usually calcium, bumps these off,  thereby locking up the calcium and freeing large amounts of harmful  salts. Proper aging of this coco pith is therefore critical. It affects  the crop time since a minimum amount of time is required to make this  usable, at least four months, which reduces the amount of time available  for use.
*Coco Fiber*
 Fiber holds little water but increases the capacity of the growing  medium to hold air; the more fiber you see in your coco mix, the more  often you will need to water it. Fiber is largely cellulose and degrades  fairly quickly. This degradation has an adverse affect on the stability  of the medium. The length of these fibers is also critical to these  functions as well.
*Coco Chips*
 Coco chips hold the least water. Think of them as a natural form of  clay pebbles. They combine the properties of the fiber and pith; they  are approximately the same size as the fiber and positively influence  air-holding properties while holding water. They have the highest air to  water ratio of all three parts. Achieving the correct ratio of these  components is critical in developing a well-drained, well structured  medium for growth, just as the proper preparation of the chemical  characteristics is important by buffering the blend before use.  (Hydroponic-grade coco coir growing medium has been treated so that  unwanted potassium and sodium has been removed. This helps to ensure  that the nutrients you later add to the coco coir can actually be used  by your plants.)
*What Makes For Good Coco?*

 Coco coir is a natural product and, as such, the way it is harvested  and prepared is key to achieving a quality end horticultural product. It  is usually stored in giant piles for a couple of years at its country  of origin. Unless stored carefully, these huge coco piles can be  susceptible to colonization by unwanted pathogens (partly due to the pH  of the coco being favorable to pathogens) so, in this case, the coco  must be steam or chemically sterilized in order to make it suitable for  horticultural use. However, chemical sterilization can have adverse  effects; and steaming destroys the structure of the coco peat while  converting any nitrogen present into a toxic form, nitrite nitrogen;  both destroy any beneficial organisms that are usually present. So  what's the solution? A coco coir supplier needs to control the coconut  from harvest to bagging, remove the opportunities for unwanted seed and  pathogen contamination, and carefully control the aging process  directly. Only then will they stand a chance of producing the cleanest,  most alive and most productive form of coco coir. Regulations vary  between countries with regard to sterilization (Australia is very  strict). Shipping microbes across continents is frowned upon by customs  agencies. Some brands are inoculated with specific microbes that are  either allowed to cross borders or are blended after landing on the  shores where they ultimately will be used.
 Caring for the product through proper storage and packaging is  critical, after preparation and again after packaging. Storing it too  wet speeds decomposition. Drying in big mechanical driers can also have a  detrimental effect on structure. In short, improper handling will  drastically reduce the ability of the product to provide the correct  root environment for proper root growth. Finally, consistency: a grower  needs to be sure that they are growing in the same material crop after  crop to ensure success. Imagine the heartache of losing a crop because  the salts were not properly washed off your latest batch, or the coco  peat is too decomposed - this REALLY happens!
 So don't be afraid to ask questions of your coco supplier. Look for  an established supplier that sun dries the coco, one that incorporates  the correct coco pith, coco fiber and coco chip fractions to get the  best blend. This is specific to the grower's irrigation system, the  plants being grown, and the size of the pots used. For instance, you  wouldn't grow orchids in fine coco pith as they require lot of air!  Conversely, any fast growing vegetable in warm conditions would enjoy  lots of coco pith in the mix. Look for coco that is clean and washed  correctly, one that is packaged and stored correctly, and one that is  correctly aged.
*Preparation*

 Let's take a look at how this natural product should be prepared by  the manufacturer. This is the biggest concern in selecting coco coir for  hydroponics use. (Don't be tempted to use the 'ornamental variety' you  sometimes find at your local garden center. This may still contain high  levels of salt.) The outer fibers of the coconut are removed by soaking  them in water. This soaking process involves either the use of fresh  water or, more commonly, the use of tidal water which can be very high  in salt. As coco coir has an excellent cation exchange ability it tends  to hold onto things like salt which, when used in a hydroponic or indoor  set up, can wreak havoc on your plants. Good quality, hydroponic grade  coco coir will have not have a high salt content, but you should always  flush it through with a low EC nutrient solution before use until no  more tannins are coming out. Tannins can easily be seen as they stain or  color the water brown. Some indoor gardeners check to see if the PPM of  the water coming out of the coco is the same as the water they're  putting in - but a more reliable method is the 1:1.5 extraction method  which better determines the actual pH and EC of the coco itself.
​ *How To Test The Suitability of Coco Coir for Hydroponic Applications*

 You need to get an idea of the electrical conductivity and pH of your coco coir.


Take a handful of coco coir and put it in a bowl. For the most  representative sample, take a pinch from different parts of the bag.
Mix with about 6 oz of di-mineralized (reverse-osmosis) water and leave for a few hours.
Mix again and measure the pH.
Strain off the coco coir so you are left with just the water. Measure the EC and pH of the water.
 A good score is around 1.0 EC. (The lower the better.) 1.3 is acceptable.
 The pH should read between 5.3 and 6.2.
​ 
 Many growers treat coco coir like potting mix-i.e. they use it  in regular plant pots. Some add a shallow layer of clay pebbles or clean  silica rock on the bottom of the pot to aid drainage and to help air  get pulled through into the root zone. Drippers are a great way to  provide irrigation but many growers simply hand water too.
*Do I Need Coco-Specific Nutrients?*

 Many manufacturers offer a 'coco specific' nutrient formula. This is  because coco coir tends to hold onto phosphorus, while only holding a  little calcium and releasing small amounts of potassium. Manufacturers  counter this by providing extra calcium in their coco formulations, but  not so much that it competes for potassium uptake resulting in a  potential for potassium deficiency.

 Do they work? Yes they do  but you can also use a regular hydroponic nutrient too as they contain  enough calcium. Some growers swear by their coco-specific nutrients  though, claiming a purpose-made nutrient is best. Aim for a pH of around  6.0 as this will allow maximum availability of all nutrient elements.  As with all hydroponic applications, a little pH swing is a good thing  (say between 5.5 and 6.5) as it opens the doors to different nutrients.
*All in all, coco coir is an amazing, exciting and easy to use  renewable growing medium. It's easy to work with and is perhaps the  best stepping stone for soil growers who want to take their first steps  with hydroponics. *


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## Gooch (Sep 29, 2016)

do you treat the coco with anything? i know calcium locks up really easily, and some other nutrients


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## Grower13 (Sep 29, 2016)

Gooch said:


> do you treat the coco with anything? i know calcium locks up really easily, and some other nutrients


 

I rinse it with plain water and drain off water then "charge" the coco by soaking in ph'd nutrient mixed water.......... my water is naturally on hard side so the only thing I add other than nutrients and ph adjustment solution is Epsom salt.......... been doing it this way for nearly 2 years never had lockout....... the problems most have using coco is because they use the fine coco instead of chipped coco (overwatering) plants that are to wet have all sorts of issues that looks like lockout or other nutrient and PH issues ...... I know growers who use ro water and they add calmag and have never had a lockout issue.......... I believe there is not an easier way to get quality bud than using chipped coco for your medium........ only drawback is if you hand water your gonna have to water once or twice a day......... I used a flood and drain table on top of a reservoir and water pump on a timer....... with irrigation lines run to top feed my plants 2 times a day......... I do reservoir changes every 2 weeks and top off reservoir with plain water after every feeding...... it really is easy....... oh and I do this without carrying 5 gallon buckets of water.

View attachment IMG_0030.jpg


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## Kraven (Sep 29, 2016)

Wow 13, I have just been expanding it over-nite with 7 gals of water. Then a quick wash, sometimes don't even get all the tannin's out, and then right into a bucket with the plant. I wonder if I need to really wash it well and pre-charge it, check for pH and all that....I would hate to just up and loose a few plants?


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## Rosebud (Sep 29, 2016)

G-13 thank you!


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## Hushpuppy (Sep 29, 2016)

Very good info on the coco chips. I have used coco coir for many years and had challenges with it getting into my hydro system until I went to using fabric smart pots to line my 12"netpots. I always use calmag additive to prevent magnesium lockout. The only time Ive had trouble is when I didn't use the calmag and got magnesium deficiency. I use a lot of pearlite and coco kernels/chips to mix in with it for aeration and prevent compaction.

Kraven: that stuff expands like crazy when you put water to it. its a trip to watch it expand.


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## Grower13 (Sep 29, 2016)

Hushpuppy said:


> Very good info on the coco chips. I have used coco coir for many years and had challenges with it getting into my hydro system until I went to using fabric smart pots to line my 12"netpots. I always use calmag additive to prevent magnesium lockout. The only time Ive had trouble is when I didn't use the calmag and got magnesium deficiency. I use a lot of pearlite and coco kernels/chips to mix in with it for aeration and prevent compaction.
> 
> Kraven: that stuff expands like crazy when you put water to it. its a trip to watch it expand.




I use the chipped coco and add nothing to amend it at all.......... works perfectly..........and I also reuse it as well......... and what I don't reuse is put in flower beds outside as mulch........... 100% environmentally friendly that way...........it's cheap to.......... y'all watch how much yarddogs grows improved almost instantly upon switching.......... I also want to add I use General Hydroponics 3 part veg/micro/bloom for veg and flower and add in some koolbloom when in flower...... always add a teaspoon and a half of Epsom salt per 5 gallons for magnesium (some use Cal/mag)......... other than adjusting PH...... that's all I use.


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## Kraven (Sep 29, 2016)

Same here, I was just curious since we both use the the same brand, if I needed to do all the stuff your doing since I use R/O water and add cal/mag back before building my nute solution. (GH 3 Part w/ LKB)


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## Grower13 (Sep 29, 2016)

Kraven said:


> Same here, I was just curious since we both use the the same brand, if I needed to do all the stuff your doing since I use R/O water and add cal/mag back before building my nute solution. (GH 3 Part w/ LKB)



I'd rinse and I'd "charge" the coco chips........ remove the chips from soaking "charging" and use it to pot the plants......... don't even need to water them for 2 or 3 days.


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## yarddog (Sep 30, 2016)

grower13, do you add epsom salt during flower as well, or just bloom?
when i reuse the coco, i have been just busting up the root ball and soaking and rinsing the coco well before reuse. is this a good way??
my grow speaks volumes for the ease of use with this coco and GH 3 part. like Grower13 said a few posts ago, my grow is a night and day difference when i swapped over. worked out a few kinks in the swap and it is growing better than it ever has.


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## Grower13 (Sep 30, 2016)

yarddog said:


> grower13, do you add epsom salt during flower as well, or just bloom?
> when i reuse the coco, i have been just busting up the root ball and soaking and rinsing the coco well before reuse. is this a good way??
> my grow speaks volumes for the ease of use with this coco and GH 3 part. like Grower13 said a few posts ago, my grow is a night and day difference when i swapped over. worked out a few kinks in the swap and it is growing better than it ever has.


 

I use Epsom every watering from the first time they're feed until their 2 to 3 weeks into flower............ I think rinsing the coco before reuse is a good idea......... btw...... I've used some of the coco 4 or 5 grows and it seems to get better after a couple grows........ like it gets broke in or something.


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## Kraven (Oct 4, 2016)

Hmm a lot of good points to ponder, got some drying and it may not be a bad idea to reuse...do you use something to break down the fine roots that are left over in the coco chunk or do you just not worry about them, wash and recharge and reuse?


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## Grower13 (Oct 4, 2016)

I don't rinse or recharge my coco for reuse........ but a rinse can't hurt....... especially if your not running large volumes of water through your coco everyday with your watering style......... please note we are talking about chipped coco here......... I water my flowering plants twice a day for 30 mins( once and hour before lights on and again 3 hours before lights off) from a 25 gallon reservoir ......... using irrigation lines run from reservoir via a 350 gph water pump.....lines  run to each plant in a top watering method.


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## Kraven (Oct 4, 2016)

Thanks G13, all good points to ponder. Peace


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## epicstuff (Apr 10, 2020)

1st time using coco Coir. (Coco lite)  Im getting mixed messages about the best way to water.   Some say  once every 1 or 2 days let it dry out a little, others say several times a day  in small amounts.  I ask as one of my babies looks a little floppy and papery   2 others look fine.. they  are on day 16 now.. I'm using Sodium dual spectrum lights which do look a little yellow for veg.  and only  just started giving them  weak feed at at 1 ml/ L   Canna A&B.   Is my Shishkaberry  over watered or doesnt like the light?  or perhaps  needs more food?


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## stinkyattic (Apr 10, 2020)

I like to see ANY medium dry out a bit between waterings, be it hydroton, coco, or dirt. The roots benefit enormously. I use coco fibre and compost and definitely give them cycles.

Hps isn't ideal for veg and if that were my only major light in the arsenal, id actually prefer daylight fluorescents. Old school.

But one thing to think of that folks miss a lot is how important it is to give a calcium supplement in coco. Calmag is most common. Coco scavenges minerals and plants suffer from calcium deficiency which shows as a general paleness and lack of vigor and progresses to tan dead patches on lower leaves. 

Whatever you do with your lights,  definitely give them a mineral supplement too.


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## epicstuff (Apr 11, 2020)

stinkyattic said:


> I like to see ANY medium dry out a bit between waterings, be it hydroton, coco, or dirt. The roots benefit enormously. I use coco fibre and compost and definitely give them cycles.
> 
> Hps isn't ideal for veg and if that were my only major light in the arsenal, id actually prefer daylight fluorescents. Old school.
> 
> ...



 Thanks Stinky.  ...   I was pondering that  although  by using  Cocolite Ecothrive Charged.   I was thinking that already had  some base minerals included  premixed..   might try that if it doesn't perk up  next day or two, I doubt a little extra cant hurt.       Not  happy about these lights  i was recommended, they're really messing with my head,  cant even see the true colour of the leaves in its yellow glow.   Tossing  up whether to get a MH as i have always previously had  (seems a little extravagant for such a short time needed) or add a supplement  15w daylight LED just to boost the blue a  little while they still babies.  got to ease up to the casual spending where its not necessary.

 Big up to the Berkshire massive.. unusual to get a response from someone in my old neighborhood instead of across the pond.


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## stinkyattic (Apr 11, 2020)

The Shires are a nice place to lay low n grow!


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## epicstuff (Apr 12, 2020)

I have a feeling the problem  might have been the humidity.   there was a lot of condensation in the tent  after giving a little more air flow the Shishkaberry looks to be improving very early to tell still.   I hadnt turned my extractors on as the  lights  are turned down to 250w at the moment while babies so small.


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