# Mouldy buds



## stonegroove (Jun 17, 2009)

i just took my new buds out of my drying box, i noticed on some of the big top buds a sort of grey white fur under the surface of the bud and around the stem, i think because these areas are quite deep in the bud and they don't get much air movement over them, they are going mouldy. i had fans blowing on the buds when the lights were on, i love my big fat top buds but how do i stop them from going mouldy?
   Do i have to keep the fans on 24/7 during flower or do i need more fans or just more powerful fans, i don't want my next grow to go mouldy at all
   my flower room temperature is around 85F during light but i think thats as cool as i can get it


----------



## Alistair (Jun 18, 2009)

Try to set up proper ventilation.  My closet setup isn't all that great and humidity can be a problem.  I haven't had the problem in awhile, though.  Try to keep the colas from leaning over on one another.  Also, I keep the fans going 24/7.


----------



## HippyInEngland (Jun 18, 2009)

Hello Stonegroove 

The mould could have grown while you were drying them.

Im quite sure you would have noticed the mould as you were harvesting and manicuring them.

Did you have a fan in the drying area?

Did you have fresh air coming in and stale air being removed from the drying area?

With mouldy bud you have only 1 option, do not smoke it.

http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1581

^^ is what you do with it 

eace:


----------



## StoneyBud (Jun 18, 2009)

Hippy has told you what's up with what you have. I'd like to add to that, and tell you what you can do next time to avoid this problem.

When drying bud, there are two distinct steps to the process.

1. Initial drying of a week or so, where the buds are hung in a manner that prevents any buds from touching. Air must circulate freely between the buds while they are in this initial drying stage.

2. Then, the buds are put into a one gallon or less size container that is air tight. Anything from a zipped baggie that has had the air expelled from it, or a mason jar with a rubber gasket. The bud should be very loosely packed into the container and then put in a dark, cool area.

Periodically, (some say every day, some not), the container is opened and the bud is very, very gently moved slightly to make sure all of the bud is exposed to open air. The container is left open for a period of time. I leave it open for an entire day. 

Then, reseal the container and put it back into a dark, cool place.

After a period of time, the bud will be cured. Everyone has their own opinion of how long each of these steps take. You have to find one you like and try it.

I cure my bud for 3 months or more. I use a very different schedule than what I've said above.

Good luck on the next batch. You can still make some ISO Oil from what you have. It beats being without smoke.


EDIT: Keep in mind that there are a thousand variations to the curing process. What I've said above is nothing more than an example of the process. The initial drying stage is a must, to prevent mold growth, unless some other method is used to the same end. Over the years, I've heard hundreds of recipes for curing. Mine is an adaptation of all that I liked about each one.


----------



## Growdude (Jun 18, 2009)

To salvage as much as you can remove ALL moldy area of the bud and leave them out in a dry area to completely dry out the bud.

Once crispy dry look for new mold and remove but a total lack of moister will prevent any more mold from spreading.


----------



## vermont_farmer (Jun 23, 2009)

Yes, good advice posted here.  If you are not all that taken away by the esthetics of single large buds, break them down a bit for drying. This will help to get air to the inside of those larger buds. The buds are dry enough when they are just starting to feel a bit crispy. the stems should almost be able to snap, they are nearly brittle. 

Remember this simple rule of thumb. You can always rehydrate over-dry buds, but you can't do much of anything with moldy buds. So it is always better to error on the side of being too dry.


----------



## Oregon Bob (Jun 24, 2009)

Had a few crops where mold would set in... over the years.  IMHO mold doesn't set in during the drying process, unless you don't dry them & then stuff them into a box/glass/etc.  Sure, those will mold.  However, if you are hang drying nugs & you notice mold at the end upon inspection, that mold likely germinated prior to harvest.  In other words, the primary problem (imho) is not nec drying but in your room proper.

Ditto on previous posts regarding this.  Would recommend watching you RH near the plant canopy, or just underneath it where the air movement is less.  Try not to let it go over 50%, or the deep set spores will germinate.  Remember, that the meter may read whatever, where ever it is located.  Inside the large nugs, however, the RH is quite a bit higher.  Makes sense here.

If you are at 85F during the lights, once they shut down you are likely experiencing a temp drop.  If you shut your fans down, all the moisture in the air gets forced out, though trapped in the room itself.  THe RH spikes by 5-10%+.  Inside the nugs, this is even worse.  IMHO, this is where the germination likely started.  Just something to keep an eye on for the next round.  And keeping the fan on during loff is a very good idea.

Best regards brother!

PS if you use a respirator & an electrostatic fan/filter, you could conceivably pick through the buds & remove the mold, but if they went to full spore...?  You could hash it too, but dry the hash quickly & thoroughly or it too will sprout mold.  ;-)


----------



## stonegroove (Jun 25, 2009)

thanks for your advise everyone, i've put in some extra fans and my extractor will be running 24/7 i'll also invest in a meter for reading the climate conditions in my cab, i'm also gonna try topping my plants this time to spread out the big buds


----------

