# Organic Cultivation Subcool Style~ The never ending How to thread...



## subcool

I spent yestarday looking over the boards at all the amazing shows here.
There are many talented growers here and its not like you guys need my help.
Other the past 35 years I have developed some techniques that produce the nice buds you see in my pics and I get so many Pm's whe I join a site asking me how I grow I think its nice to show my intire process if thats ok.

This thread will go on awhile as there is much to teach about Organics and its not only about taste. Chemicals toxify the planet and Organics rebuild the eco system and restore the micro fibers that connect all living things.
Check back often to learn more about growing in Dirt and Poo.


This is yet one more Soil Mixing tutorial. This one is going to focus on making a batch in the city while keeping it neat and tidy. First we use a tarp and a sheet of plywood under so the shovel will slide easily as we mix and scoop. This was created over 35 years of soil growing and blows away any method I have tried. Hydro growers that swap over never switch back to water.

Here is the recipe to make this concentrate!
You cannot grow plants directly in this super concentrate!

8 Bags Roots soil or equivalent high quality supped up grow soil
25 pounds Pure Worm Castings
½ cup Azomite trace minerals
2/3 Cup Sweet Lime IE Dolomite
1 Kilo Bone meal / IE 5 Pounds
1 Kilo Blood meal ( I use a bit more bone than Blood in this recipe)
1 Kilo Bat Guano bloom formula preferably Fruit bats
3/4 cup Epson Salts
The Perlite and Coco I happen to have and it will make a better mix but it is not necessary.


First we take the tarp and the Lucky rug and lift the edges to form a 2 sided pan.

So for the last year Sticky Lungs and Joe Blow have been prompting me to try a new soil called Harvest moon. It really doesn't have a name or a label but these guys carry a product line called that and they seem like really nice people.
The main complaint with Roots is the fir bark that is used as a filler. It gives you splinters and makes us wonder if the mix is the best it can be. So the Harvest Moon people don't use Fir bark but high quality Coco Fiber and no spinters.
They hand wash the coco untill its extremly low ppm and then hand mix there soil. They do this outside which bothers me somewhat.
I love there soil mix so far and we have made an entire batch of Super Soil using 8 bags of there mix as a base.


Here are the two products.

So lets take a look at the ingredients of a product called Roots Organic

Lignite*, coca fiber, perlite, pumice, compost, peat moss, bone meal, bat guano, kelp meal, Green sand, soy bean meal, leonardite, k-mag, glacial rock dust, alfalfa meal, oyster shell flour, earth worm castings and Mycorrhizae.
I have always believed in giving my plants a wide range of soils and additives I figure it's like a buffet they get all they need

Lignite, also known as leonardite, mined lignin, brown coal, and slack, is an important constituent to the oil well, drilling industry. Lignite, or leonardite as it will be referred as hereafter, is technically known as a low rank coal between peat and sub-bituminous. Leonardite was named for Dr. A.G. Leonard, North Dakota's first state geologist, who was a pioneer in the study of lignite deposits. Leonardite is applied to products having a high content of humic acid. Humic acid has been found to be very useful as a drilling
mud thinner.

Another local product we are trying now is called Harvest Moon

Washed coco fibers, Alaskan peat moss, perlite, yucca, pumice, diatoms, worm castings, feather meal, fishmeal, kelp meal, limestone, gypsum, soybean meal, alfalfa meal, rock dust, yucca meal, and Mycorrhizae fungi.

So the Harvest Moon boys also believe in just add water for people that are growing medicine and have less experience. There solution is an additive called One Shot which I am still awaiting data on.

You add 1/2 to 3/4 cup to a bag of there soil and its good to go.
I used a small 1/2 cup for a 7 gallon pot for this trial

				Continuing to build my mountain behind the fence I built just for stuff like this

So we add water and let it cook in the sunshine. 30 days is best for this concentrate and it can be used to condition soil as detailed in the soil 101 thread. *Do Not Put Clones or Seeds in this mix!*


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## subcool

I will use this for a full year just adding like 30-50% in the lower potion of the container and plain roots in top portion. As the concentrate gets older I can use more. To re use I just recondition.

Do not put seeds or clones directly in this mix. It is an advanced mix used in conjunction with base soil. It is used to place in the bottom of each finishing container and fully rooted established clones are placed in a bed of base soil. As the plants grow they slowly push their roots into the super soil drawing up all nutrients needed for a full cycle. The Super Soil can be used also to top dress plants that take longer to mature.
I will use this mix for a full year just adding like 30-50% in the lower potion of the container and plain base soil in the top portion.

I used to use a wading pool and do this inside a garage just so you can see there are many ways to get it done. Some people even use a cement mixer.


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## subcool

Once the soil has cooked or sat for a month or so were ready to transplant into the final pots. I use #10 nursery pots now that will hold a full 7 gallons of liguid. I 7 may not sound bigger than a 5 but let me tell you these slanted #10 pots hold a bunch of soil!
So I store the soil in large cans and then use the same kiddie pool/or tarp I mix in to transplant in. Helps keep the mess down. I fill each pot ¾ full with the super soil. I then fill the top half with plain potting soil. This buffers the roots and gives the plants time to get used to the hot soil I use.

Lets set up our pots on our trusty tarp the same one I used in mixing this soil. We line all the pots up and place 1/2 a container of concentrate into the bottom of each container:

Ok the veg room has reached the size when I wont to change pot size.


We then layer some plain commercial potting soil on top about 2" worth then use your hand to lightly mix the two layers slightly. This allows the plant to be buffered as it hits the hot soil on bottom.

*Its important to water the plants well before transplanting. This helps prevent shock a nice damp root ball will make a happy plant.* Make sure the roots do not touch direct super soil use you hand to mix the plain potting soil around with the super soil. Place a hand full of plain soil in the hole you transplant in. Gently flip the plant upside down. Wack the bottom with palm of hand to loosen the root ball. Support the plant by placing hand on pot allowing stem to protrude though fingers. Remove from pot and support the base. Flip upright and place in hole made into the soil.


Then top off with Roots soil or equal


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## subcool

To get a good start on this style its important to top the plants early. As soon as my clones have rooted well and have started to grow I chop out the meristem causing the plant to divide into 2 growing shots. If this is performed low enough the plant will actually develop 3 heads just leave 3 nodes .

Not all strains benifit from topping but most do. Some really short slow Indicas like Urkle just take to long to grow out when topped like this but this method allows us to harvest 5 ounces consistanly in soil per plant.
  Topping early is the key with most strains so the plant maintains a low profile with the maximum amount of bud sites in the sweet spot of the lumuns roughly 20" from a 1K Hortilux bulb.


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## subcool

Tie Her Up!​ Words and Pics by Subcool​ 
  How do larger yields and bigger buds with only the cost of some string and some of your time? Would you like to fill the same amount of stash jars using less plants, taking less clones, then lets explore the science of *Plant canopy management*
  It is amazing what can be accomplished using plant bondage (LST) and canopy management. This can be very useful in medical gardens where the number of plants is limited but everyone can benefit using this technique by achieving larger yield per plant. I get amazing results with much larger plants using simple topping and spreading the plant open and using string or floral wire to tie her down. This method can help in many areas.
              First we want to top our plants very early and close to the soil so they have multiple heads and there left in the vegetive phase for long enough to form a large bush with a height of about 24-36. Once the plants leave the vegetive area and enter the flowering room tie them down so that there over all height is much shorter and the plants are wider. This allows your lights to be a bit lower maximizing lumen efficiency. With taller grows some time the lights can be so high that the over all lumens reaching the shorter of the plants have diminished so much that those plants end up with poor yields. This method also allows you to fill a rather large area with far less plants and it requires fewer plants to be cloned. 
   The second thing this training of the plant allows is more light to the second level buds or lower shelf as I like to call it. Before we employed this method or tops were huge but the lowers were airy and mainly fluff. This trick assures large buds even at the lower levels. 
  Last and most importantly it increases yields per plant, when the number of plants are limited thats extremely important. Many state medical programs have strict plant limits. So with larger topped plants tied up to maximize yields and manage the canopy height we get a good 4 ounces per plant minimum and on some strain we get 5 and 6 ounces per plant. Thats enough to last and make enough cookies for our patients and other friends who have cards.
  With my set up I run two grow rooms one for the vegetive phase ( Metal Halide) and one for budding phase ( High Pressure Sodium). I grow the plants in my own mix of concentrated super soil containing worm castings, bat guano, bone meal, Epson salts, lime, and other organic ingredients including endo/ecto mycorrihizae, which I find extremely beneficial to young plants. I start rooted seedlings and rooted clones in straight high quality potting soil so the super soil concentrate doesnt burn the fragile babies. The clones are started into rapid rooters and then they are transplanted into 1 gallon pots, and when there firmly established I top the meristem ( Main Stem) nice and low so that the plant develops a nice short bush shape with 3 to 4 growing heads, as long as I leave to sets of fan leaves the plant always recovers well and gets a great start. 
  Seedlings are a bit different and you must allow the seedling to develop and have at least 4-5 internodes before topping. If you top a seedling to early the shock will slow the plant down tremendously wasting time. Clones and seedlings grow under a 18/6 light cycle until I can see roots in the lower drain holes. They then get transplanted again into large 7 gallon lowboy pots, using my super soil in bottom 2/3 of pot and straight premium potting soil in the top 1/3 and placed back in 18/6 under the same 1000 watt MH. Once the plants have been in veg for almost 60 days almost everything is finishing up in the bud room and harvest is approaching. One everything is trimmed up and the old pots moved out and the soil recycled its time to clean everything well, washing the floor and tarps with bleach and making sure everything is mold free. At this time I clean off the glass in the vented hoods with glass cleaner. *A clean room is the sign of a good grower!* The plants are now placed in main bud room that measures 10x5 with 2- 1000 Watt HPS Hortilux bulbs.
  This is the time when we clean up our plants removing any smaller shoots that are shaded still so that this energy that would have gone to produce fluff and added time to trimming can instead go to the upper buds that are actually in the light. This also allows more air to circulate under the canopy so that O2 doesnt stratify. This in it self will increase the yields and make your trimming a bit easier. I am not sure everyone will get this analogy but the plant looking up should kinds look like broccoli with everything up top. 
*Tie your mother down!*​  Using a small drill I make 4 holes directly beside each main branch. I use floral wire now and secure the branch about halfway up and then gently pull that branch down opening and exposing the center of the plant allowing more light to penetrate the canopy. As we have discussed this also makes the plant shorter and this can allow more veg time and a larger base stem all things that can increase your yields. Dont be so quick to bud your plants a few extra days can make a huge difference in how long your medicine holds out. Super Cropping is the next technique I want to cover here. In laymens terms super cropping is bending or pinching the stem causing slight damage, the plant repairs this damage making a stronger stem that for some reason creates much larger buds. Some people completely break there stems and then repair them using bandages or splits, we dont need no stinking bandages! Try treating a room of plants and not a garden, get in touch with each strain or hybrid you grow determining how much it will stretch and if it does best topped or like a rare few better untopped. Try some of these techniques on your plants and I know you will be amazed at the outcome.


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## Shovelhandle

Fine article, Subcool.  I like to mix my own soil and also use a wading pool.  I've got enough put up for my next grow, at least.  But I'm going to look into your recipes and formulas and see if I can duplicate them sometime.  I use to grow outdoors only, but just lost too many plants to theives so I'm indoors now.  I like organic soil grown pot, it smells and tastes better than the outdoor plants when I'd transplant a seedling with a small amount of good soil mix.

Shov


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## subcool

We do not keep mother plants!
Thats right we breed without a net

Here is the trick. We take cuttings from out vegging plants a few days before they go into bud.
This means we have to really be good at cloning but it has worked for us and saves room.
MzJill fits into the room better than I do and she cleans up the sucker shoots and we then clone em.

				Now before we get into the work lets do some reviewing:
I run three area a small vegetive area that uses a 400 and a cfl.
I have a combo Veg/bud area with a 1k MH
We run a 2000 watt 11x6 bud room

The veg room grows up while the bud room makes meds.

As the main bud room gets close to finishing its time to take clones from the vegging plants prior to flipping there light cycle to 12/12

So as you can see in the pictures the bud room is done with plants in there final stages of maturation. Shown are Vortex and Tinybomb. A glance into the main veg area shows large plants close to 18 already topped pre trained and ready for 12/12 but before we do this I have to take cuttings. We do not keep moms! Yes thats right I have kept al my moms alive for over 6 years without ever keeping a permanent momma plant.
You think cloning is important now? You bet on it its the key to mastering the art of Fine cannabis production. 


So I take cuts after a long dark period cause of a report I read once and I figure it cant hurt.

Technical stuff
_ From Clarke on Rooting

Rooting

A knowledge of the internal structure of the stem is helpful in understanding the origin of adventitious roots.

The development of adventitious roots can be broken down into three stages: (1) the initiation of meristematic cells located just outside and between the vascular bundles (the root initials), (2) the differentiation of these meristematic cells into root primordia, and (3) the emergence and growth of new roots by rupturing old stem tissue and establishing vascular connections with the shoot.

As the root initials divide, the groups of cells take on the appearance of a small root tip. A vascular system forms with the adjacent vascular bundles and the root continues to grow outward through the cortex until the tip emerges from the epidermis of the stem. Initiation of root growth usually begins within a week and young roots appear within four weeks. Often an irregular mass of white cells, termed callus tissue, will form on the surface of the stem adjacent to the areas of root initiation. This tissue has no influence on root formation. However, it is a form of regenerative tissue and is a sign that conditions are favorable for root initiation.

The physiological basis for root initiation is well understood and allows many advantageous modifications of rooting systems. Natural plant growth substances such as auxins, cytokinins, and gibberellins are certainly responsible for the control of root initiation and the rate of root formation. Auxins are considered the most influential. Auxins and other growth substances are involved in the control of virtually all plant processes: stem growth, root formation, lateral bud inhibition, floral maturation, fruit development, and determination of sex. Great care is exercised in application of artificial growth substances so that detrimental conflicting reactions in addition to rooting do not occur. Auxins seem to affect most related plant species in the same way, but the mechanism of this action is not yet fully understood.

Many synthetic compounds have been shown to have auxin activity and are commercially available, such as napthaleneacetic acid (NAA), indolebutyric acid (IBA), and 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4 DPA), but only indoleacetic acid has been isolated from plants. Naturally occurring auxin is formed mainly in the apical shoot men stem and young leaves. It moves downward after its formation at the growing shoot tip, but massive concentrations of auxins in rooting solutions will force travel up the vascular tissue. Knowledge of the physiology of auxins has led to practical applications in rooting cuttings. It was shown originally by Went and later by Thimann and Went that auxins promote adventitious root formation in stem cuttings. Since application of natural or synthetic auxin seems to stimulate adventitious root formation in many plants, it is assumed that auxin levels are associated with the formation of root initials. Further research by Warmke and Warmke (1950) suggested that the levels of auxin may determine whether adventitious roots or shoots are formed, with high auxin levels promoting root growth and low levels favoring shoots.

Cytokinins are chemical compounds that stimulate cell growth. In stem cuttings, cytokinins suppress root growth and stimulate bud growth. This is the opposite of the reaction caused by auxins, suggesting that a natural balance of the two may be responsible for regulating nor mal plant growth. Skoog discusses the use of solutions of equal concentrations of auxins and cytokinins to pro mote the growth of undifferentiated callus tissues. This may provide a handy source of undifferentiated material for cellular cloning.

Although Cannabis cuttings and layers root easily, variations in rootability exist and old stems may resist rooting. Selection of rooting material is highly important. Young, firm, vegetative shoots, 3 to 7 millimeters (1/8 to ¼ inch) in diameter, root most easily. Weak, unhealthy plants are avoided, along with large woody branches and reproductive tissues, since these are slower to root. Stems of high carbohydrate content root most easily. Firmness is a sign of high carbohydrate levels in stems but may be con fused with older woody tissue. An accurate method of determining the carbohydrate content of cuttings is the iodine starch test. The freshly cut ends of a bundle of cuttings are immersed in a weak solution of iodine in potassium iodide. Cuttings containing the highest starch content stain the darkest; the samples are rinsed and sorted accordingly. High nitrogen content cuttings seem to root more poorly than cuttings with medium to low nitrogen content. Therefore, young, rapidly-growing stems of high nitrogen and low carbohydrate content root less well than slightly older cuttings. For rooting, sections are selected that have ceased elongating and are beginning radial growth. Staminate plants have higher average levels of carbohydrates than pistillate plants, while pistillate plants exhibit higher nitrogen levels. It is unknown whether sex influences rooting, but cuttings from vegetative tissue are taken just after sex determination while stems are still young. For rooting cloning stock or parental plants, the favorable balance (low nitrogen-to-high carbohydrate) is achieved in several ways:

1 - Reduction of the nitrogen supply will slow shoot growth and allow time for carbohydrates to accumulate. This can be accomplished by leaching (rinsing the soil with large amounts of fresh water), withholding nitrogenous fertilizer, and allowing stock plants to grow in full sun light. Crowding of roots reduces excessive vegetative growth and allows for carbohydrate accumulation.

2 - Portions of the plant that are most likely to root are selected. Lower branches that have ceased lateral growth and begun to accumulate starch are the best. The carbohydrate-to-nitrogen ratio rises as you move away from the tip of the limb, so cuttings are not made too short.

3 - Etiolation is the growth of stem tissue in total darkness to increase the possibility of root initiation. Starch levels drop, strengthening tissues and fibers begin to soften, cell wall thickness decreases, vascular tissue is diminished, auxin levels rise, and undifferentiated tissue begins to form. These conditions are very conducive to the initiation of root growth. If the light cycle can be con trolled, whole plants can be subjected to etiolation, but usually single limbs are selected for cloning and wrapped for several inches just above the area where the cutting will be taken. This is done two weeks prior to rooting. The etiolated end may then be unwrapped and inserted into the rooting medium. Various methods of layers and cuttings rooted below soil level rely in part on the effects of etiolation.

4 - Girdling a stem by cutting the phloem with a knife or crushing it with a twisted wire may block the downward mobility of carbohydrates and auxin and rooting cofactors, raising the concentration of these valuable components of root initiation above the girdle.


Even though Rapid Rooters dont need rooting solution I am old school and still use the cheap stuff

Ok so lets get started. I clean my scissors well and lay out all my materials.
I wet my rapid rooters well and start by taking some lowers from each plant in veg.

I use a Vita Grow to clone with but any of the ones on the market work well even take root powder.

Its very important to remove all but top leaves and if there to large I even trim these back.

Lets move to the next step. 



























































_


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## Timmyjg6

Wow, learning alot.. Just not sure if i have the room and materials to mix my own soil... Do you have a smaller recipe maybe to fill one pot?


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## subcool

Make sure you cut the clone and a sharp angle like a spear. I do not scrape my clones stems but many people do.

I use the pen to make a hole in the rooter and hold it open as I pull out the pen. I gently find the hole and slide the cutting down never forcing the cut.
So now we have a labeled clone in a moist rooter this goes into the clone box at 75 degrees.

I keep repeating these steps until all the plants on the list are checked off, if a plants small still its marked as In Veg and will be cloned later when its a larger plant.

Its important to take notes when your actually smoking strains like these 

I see people wasting coin on all kinds of contraptions only Really designed to take your hard earned dollars out of your pocket.

Cloning is about temperature and humidity more than anything IMO.

There is also a wierd thing that if you have confidence and dont really care about the clones once there done they do better than when you stress over em kinda like a watched kettle never boiling.

Will this ghetto method work?

You Betcha!


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## AsianSky

Post more please !! This is great !!!!! Nice picturial steps too !!


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## subcool

Timmyjg6 said:
			
		

> Wow, learning alot.. Just not sure if i have the room and materials to mix my own soil... Do you have a smaller recipe maybe to fill one pot?



Timmy this is a question I get alot and to be honest the answer is no. This mix is the cumlative knowledge of 30 years growing in soil so you cant duplicate it with short cuts but youd be surprized how small an area it takes if you use some thought. maybe 2 large bins transfering back and forth.

However!!!!

You can get really good results using a good quality potting soil gearing for cannabis growing ( High Energy) my soil will kill a mater or corn btw, You can then place a small amount of layering blood meal and bone meal near the bottom like a palm full. this gives it time to break down some and allow the roots to dig into it when needed.
The third method is to use organic nutrients to create poo stew I like earth Juice and liquid karma as well as Mother earth tea.

Always supliment with sucanat and sweatleaf sugars at day 30 and day 45.

Sub


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## subcool

I feel silly telling people on a site of this caliber how to start seeds but youd be surprized at the veteran growers that have problems.
Tip 1
*Do not use a ******* heat mat to start seeds!
*I have seen more quality genetics cooked this way than I can tell you.

Cannabis is a weed and the seeds will start if viable in almost any condition, want me to prove it.
These are seeds I deemed un worthy that were blown out of my sifting pan on to rocks under my BBQ grill.

So this is how I feel is the best way to start seeds.



Wash hands well with disenfectant soap

Place seeds in Rapid Rooters with the Point up and button end down.
Water

Place in Dome
Leave alone till they sprout

These Vortex and Dannyboys 6 years old both took less than 48 hours.


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## snuggles

Thanks again, you're writing us a book...it's great. Surprising to see you don't keep mothers, I often mull this over in my head, space is money LOL.


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## slowmo77

man! what a read. can't wait for more.


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## Sir_Tokie

Very nice read thanks a million and please keep it coming.....take care and have fun


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## Dankerz

:woohoo: More:48: MorE:headbang2: mOre:banana: m0rE:aok: 

:holysheep: You spittin sum good shish..I enjoy the read Subcool ..keep it comin


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## LowRider

can this be a sticky?????


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## subcool

People that havent been trained simply dont understand  Air and Cooling so I am going to attempt to help out.
First some things I see commonly done wrong by growers.

A window unit goes into a window. It is not designed to be ducted with cardboard or vented into a garage. These things work marginally at high temps and without proper air flow all they do is use energy. I was at a grow this weekend thats improperly vented and the power bill is 600 where it should be 300. Thats 3600 a year wasted that could go to making it work properly there fore saving money every year.

That will pay for a mini split that uses ½ the electricity as a window unit.

Think Green in your grow room!

Moving Air is a lot cheaper than chilling it so if your hoods are hot then your venting system sucks. You should be able to hold your hands on your hoods and glass and not have to move them. If they are generating heat then your now paying to Chill the room and that cost a lot more.

A 1200 CFM vortex uses like 1 amp a 10,000 btu ac uses like 8

Air is a Fluid! Think of it as water. Everyone go look at there venting flex if water was running through it would it cavitate and restrict and all those bends without elbos? So does air you just cant see it. Air has friction and just like any fluid just less but its still a huge factor in venting.

Lets look at the proper way to vent a closed system.



Lets explore


WE want to install a hard pipe system as our main trunk line this will prevent friction flex is used only as short connecting tubes.

Ok I cut a 8" Dryer Vent in and tore off the flapper and cover.

We then attach a 8" elbo and a 7 foot section of pipe to go from down low to up high.

At the top of the cieling below the plate we come through with the 8" duct using an elbo 8"

As this duct passes through MzJill's hydro room we chop in a 4" hole to provide fresh air for her hood. Being close to the intake it will get lots of good clean fresh air and stay cool even with the smaller duct.

We now enter the main bud room with the 8" pipe all joints are sealed and taped as were using co2.

Using a factory 8x6x6 Wye fitting I terminate the fresh air intake feeding each hood with a very short piece of 6" flex but I use elbos at the fittings to reduce friction and turbulence.

I properly vented movable hood using 6" flex and an elbo and a long sweep. No short hard turns to restrict air flow.

The new hood straight through these hoods are cool to the touch.


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## subcool

This side of the trunk is powered by a 1200 cfm Vortex tied in with 10" hard pipe and elbos. It feeds a 12" phat filter mounted in the attic above this room.

You can see the new hood tieing in up high with no restrictions.

Now you can see a few connections on the exhaust trunk one goes over head to a vent that pulls any dank smelling air out of the common room and through the filter.

Another 6" tap travels into the veg room to vent the 1000 MH hood notice I used hard rigid flex to reduce friction I am a good ways from the main trunk at the end of the run its always good to go big on the last run.

Finally Jills new hood tied in but without elbos I will pick some up in the morning.

Dont cut corners venting you rooms it will cost you on your power bill. Multiply energy waste by 12 thats what it cost you per year.

Dont try and convert a 125$ window unit into something it wasn't designed for.

I hope this helps guys.


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## subcool

This is a tutorial on building a large medical grow inside a 20x24 garage.
It was completed last year and has run with no problems since then.
Before we get back to growing lets check out some construction.

Well the project is coming along fine with the usual hassles mainly materials costing 3X what you expect, along with tools malfunctioning.

I will have some pics tomorrow when it starts coming together.

This is what we have so far. I have had new rooms proffesionally framed for logevity and security. The sizes are surprizingly small for what I am investing but I don't want a bigger area just a safe one.
Main bud 11x 5-1/2 2k  with locking door CO/2 800 cfm carbon scrubber
veg 1 5x7 1K  with locking door  tied into 800 and scrubber
Veg Room 2 400 watt W/ Door Used for differnt projects and DWC for MzJill
Clone area shelf located in veg room 1
Breeding room used temporarily and moving the 400 watt light over. Sneak entry from veg room 1 no outside movement needed. Self contained venting
10x6 Photo area and protective wall  _This Common area leads to all rooms_

50 watt Sub panel fed by 3/4 metal conduit and #6 THHN stranded wire.

We start hanging sheet rock in the am I will snap some pictures.

The two entry doors are also being replaced with new steel exterior doors.
Ok this is mid way so its messy but its the skeleton of a very secure med garden. Notice its not some huge warehouse thats not what this is about. I wanted good code construction with proper walls and all the trimmings I wont paint the grow rooms but they will be mudded sanded and primed to protect the rock. Foylon will be placed in all grow areas.

Well today was one hell of a work out, after building the fence the side yard was covered in this nasty mud that stuck to everything so I had 2 yards of rock brought in and put in in the new path that the fence is around used for equipment storage and outdoor work area.
Ever move 2 yards of 3/4 less gravel with a shovel and a wheel barrow? OMG its death let me tell ya

So MrG got almost all the rock in place and I have it all taped off. A seeing impared person could do a much better job mudding than me and I made the biggest mess you ever saw but its all mudded off I predict alot of sanding coming up.

But it nice and sealed and ready for a Second coat

The outer security wall is 5/8 ply wood so thats easier.

Did you know insulation is expensive as hell?
I was shocked 200$ for a 4 bundles of r-30

So on with the show.


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## subcool

I ******* hate mud i'd rather do almost any construction chore that there is. Its like wet gooey torture.

I got it done but the top of the closets look like ****.

I spent the last 3 days removing the rot and making the wall sound and cutting in a new window in office for a/c and framing in the 24x18 opening for a/c in bud room. All these walls are supporting structures so they have to be blocked and 2x4&#8217;s added to create strength where door ways and windows cut in. This is a ***** and I didn&#8217;t know a Jeep could hold so many 2x4&#8217;s and sheets of OSB.

I want to say a word on MrG. He has been amazing in all this and he told me what I owed him yesterday and the man was totally kind to me he has done most of the work on Sundays and on week nights after working his *** off building stuff all day long.
He probably charged me 1/10th what a contractor would and I cut his pressure line in half with the saw so add me as a helper it&#8217;s a wonder he was so kind.

So I hung all the doors and primed the bud room it needs 1 coat of paint and then I start cutting in all the venting and carbon scrubbers. I am still working on the lay out but you will see it live here on Roller Derby. 

These are waiting
The Boys
JTR
JC2
Space Dude
Querkle

The Girls
JC
JTR
Space Queen
Tiny Bomb
Urkle
Querkle Fems
JC2 fems
Apollo-13
Mendo Purps
Bubba Kush
Orange Velvet
Dynamo
Cosmos

The venting system is installed and most of the 6&#8221; pipe is installed connecting the hoods in each room. I am running 890 CFM&#8217;s total but using about 300 of it just to circulate common room air through the Phat filter that should be in wed of next week.

I decided on horse stall mats as sub floor for the grow rooms its just thick recycled Tires I think. They were expensive and incredibly heavy but it looks like they will last forever and provide a nice soft floor for my feet and insulation from the cold concrete for the plants.
The secret room doorway is framed in and I will finish sheeting the room in the morning.

Now I just have to get harvested so I can move all the equipment over.


----------



## subcool

These pics are about 4 days behind now I am careful about pulling out the camera construction is dusty dirty work so its stays packed away mostly. I wanted to cover the new smell elimination system we have up and running as of today pics to come.

Running a 1200 CFM Phat filter located above the grow near the ridge vents and above 30 of insulation.

All hood venting is 6 and rigid as far as possible I tied in this hood and the one I moved over today with 6 foil flex and its all running and with door shut only a mild hum is heard. The air stone in my res was making more noise outside in the common room.

All nice and tight with very low static

MrG has a friend that works for the gas man and boom I get the hool up!!

Thanks MrG and his friend J

Now this is just a small 12x8 office in the garage but its TGA's new home so we got some cool paint a bit of wood trim and MzJills Primo badass Limealicious and Deep Purple Trim.

Note all the fixtures and covers were also hand spray painted to complete the Dr Seuess Office


----------



## Ilikebigbuds

thank you very much for all this helpful information!

please keep it coming!


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## subcool

Ok everything is built and we have a basic knowlegde of growing by this point I hope.
This is how I grow and I use a bare minimum of nutrients in bottles so don't start asking me hows over drive work or can I use banana mana cause I have no clue 

Lets load the plants into the room. Obviously I have been at this for a long time so if a grow room looks different its just one of the many many places I have lived over the years. I used a think tarp and some 2x4's to create a pan to catch any water that might spill and trust me you will spill water:hitchair:

I use catch pans now that I can wash each harvest but this works and cost a lot less.


----------



## subcool

Make sure your rooms are not getting to cold at night or to warm with lights on. I like a steady 75 degrees but a slight difference will cause your plants to straetch which many don't like but if you have the room it just allows light to penetrate the canopy more and I have seen these tall leggy plants yields large amounts at end of the budding period.


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## original sinner

what can i say subcool but you rock. you are a inspiration to me


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## subcool

So for the last year Sticky Lungs and Joe Blow have been prompting me to try a new soil called Harvest moon. It really doesn't have a name or a label but these guys carry a product line called that and they seem like really nice people.
The main complaint with Roots is the fir bark that is used as a filler. It gives you splinters and makes us wonder if the mix is the best it can be. So the Harvest Moon people don't use Fir bark but high quality Coco Fiber and no spinters.
They hand wash the coco untill its extremly low ppm and then hand mix there soil. They do this outside which bothers me somewhat.
I love there soil mix so far and we have made an entire batch of Super Soil using 8 bags of there mix as a base.


lets review the ingrediants of Roots soil

So lets take a look at the ingredients of a product called Roots Organic

Lignite*, coca fiber, perlite, pumice, compost, peat moss, bone meal, bat guano, kelp meal, Green sand, soy bean meal, leonardite, k-mag, glacial rock dust, alfalfa meal, oyster shell flour, earth worm castings and Mycorrhizae.
I have always believed in giving my plants a wide range of soils and additives I figure it's like a buffet they get all they need

 Lignite, also known as leonardite, mined lignin, brown coal, and slack, is an important constituent to the oil well, drilling industry. Lignite, or leonardite as it will be referred as hereafter, is technically known as a low rank coal between peat and sub-bituminous. Leonardite was named for Dr. A.G. Leonard, North Dakota's first state geologist, who was a pioneer in the study of lignite deposits. Leonardite is applied to products having a high content of humic acid. Humic acid has been found to be very useful as a drilling 
mud thinner.

The new local product we are trying now is called *Harvest Moon*

Washed coco fibers, Alaskan peat moss, perlite, yucca, pumice, diatoms, worm castings, feather meal, fishmeal, kelp meal, limestone, gypsum, soybean meal, alfalfa meal, rock dust, yucca meal, and Mycorrhizae fungi.

So the Harvest Moon boys also believe in just add water for people that are growing medicine and have less experience. There solution is an additive called One Shot which I am still awaiting data on.

You add 1/2 to 3/4 cup to a bag of there soil and its good to go.
I used a small 1/2 cup for a 7 gallon pot for this trail

So both of these plants were transplanted on the same day and were the same size. They have been vegging under a 1k Hortilux Blue for 10 days.

There Tiny bomb clones rooted in 5 days by MzJill.
I used 60% Super soil and 40% Topping

Here is My new revised Soil mix

8- Large bags of High quality Organic potting soil with a coco and Mycorrhizae	25# bag Organic Worm castings
5# Steamed Bone meal
5# Bloom bat Guano
5# Blood meal
 3# Rock Phoshate
  ¾ cup Epson salts
  ½ cup Sweet Lime ( Dolimite)
  ½ Cup Azomite ( Trace Elements)


----------



## subcool

I am happy to report the method that took me a life time to perfect as a cannabis grower is stomping the *** off a local product and method. 
The most stunning part is the day after the last shoot the taller subsoil plant was placed under a 400 watt Hortilux Blue and the Harvest Moon plus One Shot plant was left dead center a 1000 watt Hortilux Blue.

This 26" Tinybeast will be placed in 12/12 as soon as I find a place to bud her


----------



## subcool

My current crop has cught up to the same point we are at on the thread so I thought wed follow this crop to the finish.

Running 5# of co2 per day at a feed rate of .05 cfpsf 
Day 24.


----------



## billdyllan

well done fella.  there,s a lesson to be learnt 4 everyone.  iff u put that much effort and time into anything u do in life then u deserve all the rewards.             u r the man  keep up the good work


----------



## Thorn

this is a really useful thread, thanks for the link to this


----------



## chiefALLday

i cant believe this thread has died out... great info here

so in the new revised soil list.  is it only a difference in a diff type of soil type, adding coco (washed coco or not) and that mycorrhizae, and a little less dolomite (2/3 down to 1/2 cup)


----------



## curiouscat420

you know... with all these soil products and stuff, you would think there would be one place i could get it all... i cant find half of this stuff... i am in canada... what gives?

i hate running around and getting stuff that i cant find anywhere... also, is there anyone out there that doesnt grow using KILO's of soil?? whoa!!  

anyone have any recipes for a small grower and/or canadian stores that may carry all of these products??


----------



## Growin_4_It

Great Info!!!


----------



## dirtyolsouth

Hi,

Here are Subcool's latest fine tweaks on his "Super Soil" recipe:

Subcool Super Soil 

-> Full Batch (12 cubic feet)

8- Large bags (1.5 cubic ft. ea) High quality Organic soil with Mycorrhizae 
(i.e. Roots Organic)

25-50 lbs of Organic Worm castings
5 lbs. Steamed Bone Meal
5 lbs. Bloom Bat Guano (Fruit Bat &#8211; High P)
5 lbs. Blood Meal
3 lbs. Rock Phoshates
¾ Cup Epson Salts
1 Cup Sweet Lime (Powdered Dolomite)
1 Cup Azomite (Trace Elements)
2- TBS Powdered Humic Acid

Run off on this mix after a 4 week sitting with 7 ph water is 6.3


----------



## Cass

ALL HAIL SUBCOOL!!!!! I'm gonna have to go back over all this and see what I can actually afford to utilize at the moment. Awesome read though brotha. Thanks for taking the time!


----------



## Cannabiscotti

signin in to read the rest of this one later....real nice so far!


----------



## blowslow23

u guys are genius's this is a great thread, definetly will be coming back to this one once i get a grow room set up!!


----------



## NinetySeven

Greetings...WOW....Someday i maybe up to your level.Today im beneath novice.
Annnnyway.Soooo Gooood.
GREAT WORK
EJAY
97

-----------------------------------------------------------------------


			
				subcool said:
			
		

> Once the soil has cooked or sat for a month or so were ready to transplant into the final pots. I use #10 nursery pots now that will hold a full 7 gallons of liguid. I 7 may not sound bigger than a 5 but let me tell you these slanted #10 pots hold a bunch of soil!
> So I store the soil in large cans and then use the same kiddie pool/or tarp I mix in to transplant in. Helps keep the mess down. I fill each pot ¾ full with the super soil. I then fill the top half with plain potting soil. This buffers the roots and gives the plants time to get used to the hot soil I use.
> 
> Lets set up our pots on our trusty tarp the same one I used in mixing this soil. We line all the pots up and place 1/2 a container of concentrate into the bottom of each container:
> 
> Ok the veg room has reached the size when I wont to change pot size.
> 
> 
> We then layer some plain commercial potting soil on top about 2" worth then use your hand to lightly mix the two layers slightly. This allows the plant to be buffered as it hits the hot soil on bottom.
> 
> *Its important to water the plants well before transplanting. This helps prevent shock a nice damp root ball will make a happy plant.* Make sure the roots do not touch direct super soil use you hand to mix the plain potting soil around with the super soil. Place a hand full of plain soil in the hole you transplant in. Gently flip the plant upside down. Wack the bottom with palm of hand to loosen the root ball. Support the plant by placing hand on pot allowing stem to protrude though fingers. Remove from pot and support the base. Flip upright and place in hole made into the soil.
> 
> 
> Then top off with Roots soil or equal


----------



## bluealein56

; very nice thread. a  question i had for ya

Im surprised to not see a fan in any of your rooms. Do you prefer to not have a fan blowing over the tops to strengthen those stems up?

i have found that those little starter plugs are amazing. i went into the local hydro store looking for some rockwool and the guy in there turned me onto them.  from the looks of your college ball cap, i think it might be the same place .... who knows


----------



## mikeybtoken

Subcool..... Dude You Are The KING!!!
Many Many thanks for all of your inlightingments. I have followed any and all of your instructions/recomendations as closely as I could with truely amazing  results for a first time indoor dude. 
From the very beginning I tried to create a miniture version of your growing kingdom, with my own three chamber set up with three 1000w lights. I finnished construction this past summer. Then I messed around with ventilation/cooling on my own for awhile before I finally got it all figured out. 
I tried to find Buttcrackconst but I went with Asswipeconst instead.  
I can't believe how well your soil mixture works!!! I had to downsize your recipe to meet my needs but it is truely amazing at how well it is working. I did a little test. Your soil vers plane Roots and it is amazing to me how your mix has doubled the size of the plants under the exact same conditions. 
Once I get my camera working with my puter I will have to show the folks out there the results of my little test.
Mostly I just wanted to say Thanks!!!
If I had one question for you it would be, do you ever use any nuits for flowering with your soil mix. 
Thanks Again For This Thread!
Mike


----------



## subcool

It rare but I do keep a bottle of Roots Bloom and a jug of Pure Blend grow and bloom just in case I see something amiss
I am a huge user of sugars though mainly Sweatleaf and Sucanat in the past and now a product I think is amazing called Bud Candy really seems to have the mix of sugars and carbs a plant wants but this is stimulating the krebs cycle and also the soil web so its not really feeding the plant.

I tend to simply top dress any plant that seems to need some extra food.

Thanks for the kind words it never gets old teaching someone a few things to make life easier and the meds better!

Sub


----------



## Rock420

Thank you for this amazing thread.  Two questions.  There is three layers to the 7 gallon pot?  Top soil, super soil/roots, and super soil.  Can the plant touch the 'buffer' when transplanted?


----------



## 2Dog

awesome love the organic grow! I only use roots.


----------



## growtek

Hey subcool, what's up?

Man, very cool thread.  There's something in it for everyone.  

For me it reinforces a lot of what I do.   

I like how you look at the garden as a holistic environment.  My experience has been the garden will grow as fast as you let it.  Give her what she needs and she'll take care of the rest. 

I've been far too 'chem' but after 7 years am going to soon try organics (fungi and bacteria)

Thanks again,  great thread!


----------



## Cannabiscotti

Hey subcool--love your work! and thanks for the years of effort and teaching.

I was wondering if you do any growing outdoors? I am curious how you would adapt this soil mix for an outdoor grow? this year i did my first grow, one nice little spot. now i've got a nice lil plot picked out. I want to amend the soil now for next season.- or would you wait and use the super soil fresh? thanks in advance!!


----------



## Skinman

Had to hear about your author-ship through some of the old contacts my brother. Du-ed, you write a book and don't send your boy a copy? After I sent some reading material to ya during your visit to Canada, how soon they forget! Know this ain't for personal communications and such but have gotten rid of the old land line and was wondering how things were for my boy after the garden of good and evil as it were. Hope to see ya on this site sometime while I'm surfing the net at work, yeah 9-5 now kiddo. Oh how the mighty have fallen, but we always knew the Skinman was gravity impaired any-old-who. Be good Mobius Dank!


----------



## subcool

I been calling your old # since the day it was published brother life got real busy but I want you to know I did not forget. I will get about finding your new info here and get in touch asap

So no losting in hom,e town homie PM me some digits so I can catch up 


Sub


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## docfishwrinkle

hey sub whats up? prolly up to elbows & aholes w/ the green? hey lil discrepency on your weights? you say 1 kilo = 5 lbs on the bone meal. 1 kilo actually = just shy of 2 & a 1/4 lbs. sooooooooo what is the correct amount 2.25 lbs or 5 lbs? thx for the time & be safe brotha.


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## subcool

This is the current list I am using

8- Large bags of High quality Organic potting soil with a coco and Mycorrhizae
1-	25-50 pounds of Organic Worm castings
5# Steamed Bone meal
5# Bloom bat Guano
5# Blood meal
      3# Rock Phoshate
      ¾ cup Epson salts
       1 cup Sweet Lime ( Dolimite)
       ½ Cup Azomite ( Trace Elements) 
2- TBS Powdered Humic Acid


----------



## subcool

Growing indoors can be quite challenging but if the grow room is designed properly things go much easier. There are countless ways to set up a grow room but we will focus on converting a Bedroom or Garage into a safe and permanent grow area. Control of the Atmosphere is crucial so we will go into detail. Venting the lights, maintaining proper temperature and humidity must be done properly or problems will occur. According to the part of the world you live in and the size of your set up, you may need some or all of the following equipment to run a medical garden:
Window Air Conditioner/ Portable Air Conditioner/ Mini Spit Air Conditioner & Heater 
Portable Safe Electric Heaters
Dehumidifiers
In line Fans
Fan Speed Controller
Blowers
Oscillating Fans
Large Carbon Air Scrubber
HPS Ballast
MH Ballast
Vented Hoods
CO2 Tank
CO2 Solenoid and Flow Control w/Timer
Digital Thermometers
Air Pumps
Water Pumps

Why are you going to need all or at least most of this equipment?
Indoors your God of all you see and you have to have total control.
If your room gets to cold during the winter yields will suffer and worse problems like mildew or mold could completely kill your crop.
If your room gets to hot in the Summer yields will suffer and pest like mites are much easier to control in a cooler grow room.
If your humidity is to high ductwork and hoods can form moisture and reduce the life of bulbs or even burst a bulb when a water drop hits a hot lamp.
Even a legal grower doesnt want to advertise the fact he has the dankage inside so the carbon filter is a must as well. 
People that havent been trained simply dont understand Air and Cooling so I am going to attempt to help out.

First some things I see commonly done wrong by growers.
A window unit goes into a window.
 It is not designed to be ducted with cardboard or vented into a garage. These things work marginally at high temps and without proper air flow all they do is use energy. I was at a grow this weekend thats improperly vented and the power bill is 600 where it should be 300. Thats 3600 a year wasted that could go to making it work properly there fore saving money every year.
That will pay for a mini split that uses ½ the electricity as a window unit.
Think Green in your grow room!
Moving Air is a lot cheaper than chilling it so if your hoods are hot then your venting system sucks. You should be able to hold your hands on your hoods and glass and not have to move them. If they are generating heat then your now paying to Chill the room and that cost a lot more.
A 1200 CFM vortex uses like 1 amp a 10,000 btu ac uses like 8
Air is a Fluid! Think of it as water. Everyone go look at there venting flex if water was running through it would it cavitate and restrict and all those bends without elbos? So does air you just cant see it. Air has friction and just like any fluid just less but its still a huge factor in venting.


----------



## subcool

Lets discuss a few ways to construct a indoor grow room. According to your local laws, each state has a different limit of plants that can be grown in a space. I find it best to always have less plants budding than allowed so we will be learning to keep our plants in the vegetive state longer than normal all the while training and shaping the plants for maximum production indoors. In my youth we would run as many as 40 plants under 1000 watts in a 6x6 area. Now we design bud rooms to run between 4-6 plants in the same area with the same wattage lights. The yield is very similar and the main difference is the amount of time the plant is grown under an 18/6 lighting schedule. The plants are topped and shaped to form a wide bush that will finish with multi-headed and at a height of around 5-6 feet. Think of each area covered by a 1000 watt light as a 6x6x6 Cube that you are going to fill with Cannabis. By using 3 separate areas designated as Cloning area, Vegetive area, and Budding area, you can continually harvest medicine every 60 days.

We are going to use some firm measurements in this teaching example but almost any configuration will work that allows the three areas to be constructed. Every light/bulb has a foot print. This means the area that can properly be covered for maximum production.
They are as follows
1000 Watt Hoods6x6
 600 Watt Hoods.5x5
 400 Watt Hoods.4x4
 250 Watt Hoods.3x3

The design we will be teaching is a 12x6 Budding room with 2000 Watts of HPS lighting. The vegetive area is 6x6 with 1000 Watts of MH lighting, and a starting area 4x4. I also use a small shelf with fluorescents for cloning.

I am a huge fan of specialized grow bulbs and have had great results with both Agrosun and Hortilux brands. I use vented hoods as heat is your #1 enemy indoors it will zap your bulb life, and bring on a myriad of other problems, like bugs, stress, and additional watering and crappy cannabis.
Much has changed in the field of lighting and you must be careful not to place these super efficient grow bulbs to close to the canopy. Light intensity can cause fox tailing or dreading of the buds and hot spots in the center of the canopy. Keep your high tech hoods and bulbs located at 16-18 above the canopy. Some plants actually perform better and yield more with this height. Sativa strains are very susceptible to this fox tailing trait and the vented hoods allow a grower to keep his hoods very close. This is a wrong application!

I like to use small chain and S hooks mounted to a 2x4 beam I install.
This allows you to secure the small beam to the crossing studs above and hang the lights evenly on the center of the room and not where the studs happen to fall. 
Once our hoods are in place its time to mount the fan and hangers for the main trunk lines that bring air into the room and exhaust it into the filter above.


----------



## subcool

Moving Air is a lot cheaper than chilling it so if your hoods are hot then your venting system sucks. You should be able to hold your hands on your hoods and glass and not have to move them. If they are generating heat then your now paying to chill the room and that cost a lot more. A 1200 CFM vortex uses like 1 amp a 10,000 btu A/C uses like 8 amps which do you want running 24/7?

Air is a Fluid! Think of it as water. Everyone should go look at there venting flex. If water was running through it would it cavitate and restrict and all those bends without elbows? So does air you just cant see it. Air has friction and just like any fluid just less but its still a huge factor in venting. Its more costly to do properly but straight hard pipe has much less friction than flex duct. Along the same lines each hard bend you make in the flex can add as much as 15 linear feet to the duct design and enough of these mistakes and your not moving enough air to stay cool. A very common mistake is using the fan or blower to push air through the hoods and this is incorrect. This causes a positive pressure on the hoods and your temps wont drop like they will if you Pull the air through the hoods using the fan. This is accomplished by mounting the fan near the ceiling of the room and connecting a large trunk line that all the exhaust lines coming from each hood tie into using short even lengths of Flex duct. 

Technology Note**
The new 8 cool hoods work really well and even though 8 flex is expensive it has much less restriction than 4 flange fitted hoods and less restriction than a 6 vented hood. You can get away running much more flex duct with these hoods but the steel ducts will last basically as long as you will. In our design build we will be using hoods with 6 flanges.



WE want to install a hard pipe system as our main trunk line this will prevent friction flex is used only as short connecting tubes.
This may seem like over kill but you have to master your environment when growing indoors!
Ok first I cut a 8" Dryer Vent in and tore off the flapper and cover.
We then attach a 8" elbow and a 7 foot section of pipe to go from down low to up high.
At the top of the ceiling below the plate we come through with the 8" duct using an elbow 8"
As this duct passes through MzJill's hydro room we chop in a 6" hole to provide fresh air for her hood. Being close to the intake it will get lots of good clean fresh air and stay cool even with the smaller duct.
We now enter the main bud room with the 8" pipe all joints are sealed and taped as were using co2.
Using a factory 8x6x6 Wye fitting I terminate the fresh air intake feeding each hood with a very short piece of 6" flex but I use elbows at the fittings to reduce friction and turbulence.
A properly vented movable hood using 6" flex and an elbo and a long sweep. No short hard turns to restrict air flow.
The new hood straight through these hoods are cool to the touch.


----------



## nvthis

subcool said:
			
		

> This is the current list I am using
> 
> 8- Large bags of High quality Organic potting soil with a coco and Mycorrhizae
> 1-    25-50 pounds of Organic Worm castings
> 5# Steamed Bone meal
> 5# Bloom bat Guano
> 5# Blood meal
> 3# Rock Phoshate
> ¾ cup Epson salts
> 1 cup Sweet Lime ( Dolimite)
> ½ Cup Azomite ( Trace Elements)
> 2- TBS Powdered Humic Acid


 
hey Sub, I noticed in the video you just posted you were using fish meal and fulvic acid. Is this from an old recipe? Or something new you are working on? Also do you use soft rock? Or the hard rock (black)?


----------



## dioxide

I know i ant sub but you are correct we do use fish bone meal now instead of bone meal.

Peace
Dioxide


----------



## nvthis

dioxide said:
			
		

> I know i ant sub but you are correct we do use fish bone meal now instead of bone meal.
> 
> Peace
> Dioxide


 
Ah, c'mon now Dio... Welcome to mp... And don't leave it like that man Ya gotsta explain!!!


----------



## blondeboy

Very Cool sight!  Thanks for the info.  I will try this project, if I can find all of these ingediants.  But where do you buy all of these different types of minerals?  I found most of the products at my local nursery, but I'm having difficulty in finding Azomite trace minerals and Bat Guano bloom. It was funny when I gave the list to a nursery because she thought I was building a bomb, or something.  Ha! Ha!


----------



## mistisrising

What's up sub, awesome thread, covers almost everything. You guys/girl are on point, much respect. Just a couple questions, I grow guerilla, and until this year I have always lugged in new soil for the holes. This year I decided to amend the soil with additives. The recipe you give makes how much soil? It seems to fill two fifty five gallon trash cans, so is about a hundred right? Are those bags of "roots" fifty pounds, or (how many) cubic feet?

Here's what I figure, without input. Each of my holes is approximately fifteen gallons of soil (2.5ft across by 2ft+ deep). Since the soil recipe here is used in the bottom half of the pots, I figure I should cut it in half, and in half again, then replace the blood with another nitrogen source (so I don't draw animals). That would, erring on the side of caution, give me about thirty plants to a batch. If you (or anyone who has info/exper) was using it outside, does this jive with what you would expect?


----------



## subcool

What's up sub, awesome thread, covers almost everything. You guys/girl are on point, much respect. Just a couple questions, I grow guerilla, and until this year I have always lugged in new soil for the holes. This year I decided to amend the soil with additives. The recipe you give makes how much soil? It seems to fill two fifty five gallon trash cans, so is about a hundred right? Are those bags of "roots" fifty pounds, or (how many) cubic feet?
Roots comes in a 1.5 Cuft bags and my mix fill almost 3 cans full.

Here's what I figure, without input. Each of my holes is approximately fifteen gallons of soil (2.5ft across by 2ft+ deep). Since the soil recipe here is used in the bottom half of the pots, I figure I should cut it in half, and in half again, then replace the blood with another nitrogen source (so I don't draw animals). That would, erring on the side of caution, give me about thirty plants to a batch. If you (or anyone who has info/exper) was using it outside, does this jive with what you would expect?[/QUOTE]
That sounds like good math to me but note that if you use this mix you will need full sun to take advantage of this kind of heat.
Mixed properly my recipe shows a run off of 4.1 EC and even though a sludge test isn't accurate bet ya but its damn hot so id still buffer smaller plants.

We actually had a nice outdoor grow once in Used super soil and feeding the plants just pond water.

Sub


----------



## subcool

I manage 3 part rooms to maximize yields. Being a 100% medical garden we have a lot of small yielding phenotypes so instead of worrying about a plant like Tiny Bomb giving me 40 grams finished medicine I just make sure I am turning her around every 50 days. This method is not for the lazy grower and requires a good deal of manual labor as well. 
I accomplish this 50 day turn around by lots of labor and a working knowledge of my strains. I know that Tiny Bomb and SpaceJill will be done about 50 days and I can harvest them and make some room for others to spread out. Jillybean comes down a few days later and then soon to follow is Apollo-13. That leaves JTR and JC to finish and I usually completely swap all the plants at this time. Once my veg room plants are the right height to be flowered I flip the timer and start budding them early. Males and any plants that have lagged behind are left under the 400 MH to mature a bit longer. You can see the plants in veg have already started stretching a bit. Once main harvest is completed and I have removed all the plants from the main 2K room and re affix the floor tarp with staples and sweep up well. I replace the pest strips and vacuum out the A/C filter. If they need it I remove hood lens and clean away bugs and clean with Windex. A dirty glass can really kill your lumens. Vacuum the floor remove all those pesky dead yellow leaves ( Damn Soil Growers) and the rooms are ready to load. I like to place tall plants like JC in the rear and then the A-13s. The rear lamp is a 1K HPS sunmaster deluxe. I position each plant so that each growing head fits into the slot provided by the other. In about 7 days I will go tie all the stretching plants down. By employing this method and the tree areas I can pull down 6 almost 7 crops per year so if there a bit smaller the extra 2 crops make up for it. Say a small crop is 40 ounces 2 extra crops is 80 and thats a lot of Butter and Bubble. When you are a caregiver, extra medicine just means better butter.
I am glad our law understands people have needs and the limits here are manageable. You will have to learn your local laws and apply them to these methods.
We took cuts last week from these very same plants the day they went 12/12. We have 2 cuttings of each and our cloning temps are constant and we really loose any cuts and were deff not going to loose both. Many growers are shocked when I mentioned this method but we have back up cuts in the refrigerator and with other card holders.
This will not work for someone who is not hands on. This wont work if youre lazy, you have to be on top of this during the transition and make sure the budding plants dont get light pollution. Its also hard to stay on a watering schedule so you must again know your gear.
I have been fine tuning this 3 room system for almost 7 years straight with one change and thats the addition of the 400 for males instead of just some flos. 
Clones and seedlings grow under a 18/6 light cycle until I can see roots in the lower drain holes. They then get transplanted again into large 7 gallon lowboy pots, using my super soil in bottom 2/3 of pot and straight premium potting soil in the top 1/3 and placed back in 18/6 under the same 1000 watt MH. Once the plants have been in veg for almost 60 days almost everything is finishing up in the bud room and harvest is approaching. One everything is trimmed up and the old pots moved out and the soil recycled its time to clean everything well, washing the floor and tarps with bleach and making sure everything is mold free. At this time I clean off the glass in the vented hoods with glass cleaner. A clean room is the sign of a good grower! The plants are now placed in main bud room that measures 10x5 with 2- 1000 Watt HPS Hortilux bulbs.
This is the time when we clean up our plants removing any smaller shoots that are shaded still so that this energy that would have gone to produce fluff and added time to trimming can instead go to the upper buds that are actually in the light. This also allows more air to circulate under the canopy so that O2 doesnt stratify. This in it self will increase the yields and make your trimming a bit easier. I am not sure everyone will get this analogy but the plant looking up should kinds look like broccoli with everything up top.
Night temps run around 72 the A/C is set just to dehumidify mainly. Do not let humidity rise above 50% for long. It cooler climates this can invite mildew and mold. BTW I remove and wash my window unit well inside with disinfectant and anti microbal wash to prevent mold slime a grow room A/C gets way funky.
It may take some time before you perfect this method and you will make mistakes but each time you do you will learn from it! Day 45 here and as the bud room swells to completion over the next 15 days its time to take clones from the plants that are still vegging. The plants in veg have been under 18/6 since this same task was done on the last crop basically for the entire 45 days.
If you follow my 3 area set up you know that by some manual labor and lots of close attention I am able to load a crop every 50 days. It is going to be real hard this time as I have some monster plants that finish late that are not going to fit into the shorter veg room so I will have to work it out.
The Bud room is completely packed with wall to wall towering colas in the rear and shorter sticky bushes in the front.
Time to take clones! Even though I dont keep mother plants I make sure we take clones while plants are super healthy and in full vegetive state this is very important. If you take cutting from sick or un healthy plants they can be damaged and never grow like the original plant.This is also a the time to clean up the canopy and perform your bondage. Trim off sucker shoots and make sure everything is right for entering the flowering phase.
To recap
Day 45 veg room is healthy and the plants 24-30 tall with numerous growing shoots. IT is time for your tallest varieties to be budded, this is done my manual caring the plants into a dark area when 12 hours of light has passed. The shorter finishing are given at least another week of 18/6 and some varieties like Purple Urkle can be left in 18/6 for three to four months before they are large enough to place into flower and get decent yields.
I will start harvesting Saturday taking Tiny Bomb first. Just a bit longer and day 56 chop Space Queen, this will allow me to spread out the monsters you see in the back to finish and have less shading and crowding.
Whats cool is this is when some varieties really pack on the weight and hopefully so will the other late finishing varieties in your garden. This extra weak can mean a huge difference in many plants.


Quality is what counts to me.
In 35 years of growing I have done ebb and flo, NFT, DWC, aero misters and many other contraptions. My organic soil produces the best buds I have ever smoked!
If your plants bud for 10-14 days before even entering the bud room then there ready to finish 2 weeks faster its all in the text  
I am just a workaholic and this works for me if I didn't have my garden i'd loose my mind.


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## dirtyolsouth

HIya Sub,

Wow...  Your passion is so cool!   I can't tell you how much all of your posts and tutorials really help pull so many loose ends together in my grow knowledge.  I've been playing in the mud for about 15 years and when I did my first supersoil run last fall I knew that I had finally found what I have been looking for.  

Thanks SO much, bud...

Peace!


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## pcduck

Trying my first run of your super soil and organics this year outdoors:woohoo:

But anyways you said that your soil will kill tomatoes and corn, why is this? Just to hot or some other reason? I was wanting to use the recipe on my maters also.


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## subcool

You cant really test organic soil by PPM but when we do a run off I have seen readings as high as 4100 or 4.1 EC.
Maters do really well in used SS but they tend to fry a bit at first but I have never seen so many maters in one garden. Everything else struggled and I only added in like 6-8 root balls and tilled them in really good.

Only high energy plants can take this stuff but Cannabis at least my strains seem to thrive on it.

Sub


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## xiaochun3612

I have very little research in this area, so not really understand! I'm sorry.But thank you for sharing ,learning more thing .


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## Dr. Robertsozki

SUBCOOL you are the BEST!!!! Ive have read your story and how young u stared breeding... U r truly an inspiration for all of us THANKS for been YOU... I hope one day we meet  -Dr Robert(future breeder)


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## Killertea08

Thank you Subcool, I dig your style.  My next round I will give this a go.  Do you like compost tea?  If so do you have a recipe that you like.


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