# Nitrogen deficiency?



## Qc_grow (Jun 10, 2015)

Need help figuring out what the problem is!
I am new here, I hope I'm doing this right.

I have been having issues with my seedlings for the past 2-3 weeks. This is what happens: 
1- Tip of lowest set of leaves start turning yellow
2- The yellowing spreads, and also starts from the edges (but initially starts at the tip) but the leaves stay firm and straight
3- The color turns to white, and the leaves start to get soft

Initially I thought it was a Nitrogen deficiency, so I used some 30-10-10 fertilizer. It seems to have help the plants grow nice big leaves, but the issue is still present, the lowest leaves keep turning yellow/white.

At this point I have no idea what to try next, any suggestions? Thanks! 

View attachment image.jpg


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## Rosebud (Jun 10, 2015)

It is kinda normal to have the lower leaves fade. That was some strong fertilizer you gave your plant. We judge the health of the plant by the top of the plant. Can we get a pic of the whole plant please?

Welcome to MP, we are glad you are here. Let's do this grow thing, it is fun.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Jun 10, 2015)

Tell us more about the soil it is planted in and the food you gave it.  It could be a pH thing.  Plants cannot uptake nutrients, even if they are present, if it is not within proper pH ranges.

Can we get a picture of the entire plant?  This will give us an idea of the general health of the plant.


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## Qc_grow (Jun 10, 2015)

I was aware of the pH effect on the capacity of the plants to absorb different nutriment so I checked the water (with a standard Pool water test kit) and the pH is around 6.5-7 (which I think is alright?) Also, I am currently using Premier Potting Soil (available at Walmart), which is a "special blend of soil, peat moss and perlite". Other than the 30-10-10 fertilizer (which I gave the plants, HALF the dose suggested on the container, Plant-Prod) I did not feed them anything else. 

View attachment image.jpg


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## Qc_grow (Jun 10, 2015)

Another pic 

View attachment image.jpg


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## WeedHopper (Jun 10, 2015)

That 30.10.10  fertilizer is not good for MJ PLANTS.


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## vostok (Jun 10, 2015)

Time for a re pot, consider a 3 usgallon round pot, in black color, add 25% perlite to your quality soil, no nutes for 2-3 weeks.

*Avoid these low class Clay type pots, as in most cases they are por'es and suck the plant dry, tho you can fix it by painting the inside, but better to trash*


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## The Hemp Goddess (Jun 10, 2015)

Can you give us more specific information about the potting soil?  some is good and some is not.  I could not find it on Wal-Mart's web site.

I would get some nutrients formulated for cannabis.  Cannabis has specific needs and wants and getting a fertilizer formulated for the growing phase you are in and for cannabis is well worth it.  If you do not anything locally available, buy online.  

Are you growing this indoors or outdoors?  The plant is stretching a whole lot.  This results in fewer bud sites.  At this point, you have very few bud sites and the plant will yield very little unless you can get some good branching going on.

I think that if you have only fed this plant once that it is hungry.  I would be for transplanting it, adding more perlite as vostok suggested, but I would get it on a regular feeding regime.  Nutrients formulated for the vegetative stage for cannabis.  There are very good nutrient lines out there.

As far as pH--6.5 is good, 7.0 is not.  So a range from 6.5 to 7.0 really does not tell us if you are in range.   Proper pH range for soil is 6.3 to 6.8.  Some nutrients are not available at a pH of above 6.5.  Nitrogen however is available to the plant at broad pH ranges.  But we usually start feeding plants at around 2-3 weeks.  And if you have only fed once, I suspect that your plant is hungry.


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## budz4me (Jun 10, 2015)

I agree with the above comments 100% repot/light/hungry

let me add a tip that I have found out the hard way.

I hate growing in clay/stone pots.  Those pots seem to soak up bacteria/mold/etc in the walls and I have lost a seasons worth of beans/peppers, etc.

I now only use pots that I can clean thoroughly. I find 3-5g plastic pots the best.


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## WeedHopper (Jun 10, 2015)

So you guys are good with the 30.10.10 ferts?


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## budz4me (Jun 11, 2015)

WeedHopper said:


> So you guys are good with the 30.10.10 ferts?



Oh no, not at all. I thought that was covered already by others. 

30/10/10 is way too much.  I use the floranova 1 part its veg is 7/4/10
flower is 4/8/7


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## WeedHopper (Jun 11, 2015)

Kool,,thats what i thought.


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## Qc_grow (Jun 14, 2015)

Thanks to all of you for the answers, sorry I did not post anything since, I had no functionnal computer around, now it's all fixed.
As for the soil, I do not have more information, all I know is what is written on the bag, here's the link to the product:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/outdoor-living/lawn-garden-care/garden-care/soils-mixes/premier-potting-soil-25-l-0594711p.html?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=SearchVoice&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default

I'll take your advice and repot the plants, I only have 2 now as one of them turned out to be a male... Since I'll be in the process of repotting plants, I'd like to use proper soil, what do you recommend? 

My pH tester (pool water testing kit) is based on my interpretation of the color the water turns to when I put the drops in, so this technique makes the reading subjective to what I think I see, making this test unprecise. I am not planning on buying a digital pH tester, as I am not growing to sell, it's just for me so I don't want to invest in expensive equipment. I don't mind not having perfect growing conditions. I just want to do what's best with what I have and what I can easily get.

As for lighting, well my seedlings are growing indoors at the moment since I started out from seeds. The plan is to move them outdoors when the'y get too big for my closet setup, which uses 4 CFLs, 6500K, 23 Watts (says 100 watts equivalent) and I am keeping them at a minimum distance of at least 8 inches away from the plants. They are currently under a 16/8 cycle.

One of them is 7 weeks old, the other one is 6 weeks old.

On the picture here you can see how the lower leaf has kept loosing it's color since I first started this thread 

View attachment IMG_6005.jpg


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## vostok (Jun 14, 2015)

*notice the red leaf stalks, its an indication temps could be warmer in your grow room,*

I'll take your advice and repot the plants, I only have 2 now as one of them turned out to be a male... Since I'll be in the process of repotting plants, I'd like to use proper soil, what do you recommend? ...*Fox Farm Ocean Forest with 25% perlite and another 25% local dirt from you intended location, should ease you plant in, later.
*
My pH tester (pool water testing kit) is based on my interpretation of the color the water turns to when I put the drops in, so this technique makes the reading subjective to what I think I see, making this test unprecise. I am not planning on buying a digital pH tester ....*This is good, as how do you measure the hydrogen content of 'soil' truth is you can't, including the water run off, is ill-advised, leave this to the noobs or DWC guys!*

my closet setup, which uses 4 CFLs, 6500K, 23 Watts (says 100 watts equivalent) and I am keeping them at a minimum distance of at least 8 inches away from the plants.

*Stay 18/6, ensure that when you plant them out you are about 18/6 with the sun at your location, 6500k(kelvin) is blue or cool white light, you intention is to plant out, you would be better of with 2700k(kelvin) to make a tall stretchy plant, that would easily adapt to the sun mid summer, tall stretchy is fine, as you would be able to insert very deep at you location, with long established roots, and internodes far apart, then this plant would easy beat of deer, bugs even robbers ...lol (at 2-4ft is fine)*

*I'm sure you can lower the current cfl's to within 2-3 inches of the tips without damage, ensure you have a small pc type fan to encourage 02 dispersal, but above all boot that clay pot for the above above reasons.... good luck*


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## The Hemp Goddess (Jun 15, 2015)

I personally would be running the lights at 24/7.  And I would get them outside as soon as I could.  You are getting huge amounts of stretch because you do not have nearly enough light in your space.  Equivalent wattage does not mean anything when we are growing--that is just something for human eyes.  So, you have less than 100W--probably about 6200 lumens.  I would also top or fim.  Unless you can get a little size to her, you will not have much of a harvest.


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## Qc_grow (Jun 15, 2015)

vostok said:


> *notice the red leaf stalks, its an indication temps could be warmer in your grow room,*



I have been monitoring the temperature very closely with 2 digital temperature&humidity sensors, and the temperature (during the day) is constant and varies within 28-30 degrees Celcius (82-86 F). During the night, it falls down to about 24-26 (75-79 F). I don't think going higher then 30 degrees is a good idea (unless I'm completely wrong, correct me if I am).


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## Qc_grow (Jun 15, 2015)

I will be transplanting the plants is bigger pots with proper soil very soon, hopefully this will help. 

Thanks to all for all the advice! I will post back in a week or so to let you know about any improvements


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## Rosebud (Jun 15, 2015)

Green mojo for the grow.. enjoy.  Fox farm is really good soil.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Jun 16, 2015)

The yellowing is truly not your big problem right now.  Lack of light should be a lot bigger concern.  You really need more light and a lot more light.  While the color may improve if you add N, if you do not get more/better light, you are going to end up with just a few grams come harvest time.  I would top or fim and get it outside where you have plenty of light, ASAP.


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## vostok (Jun 17, 2015)

The Hemp Goddess said:


> The yellowing is truly not your big problem right now.  Lack of light should be a lot bigger concern.  You really need more light and a lot more light.  While the color may improve if you add N, if you do not get more/better light, you are going to end up with just a few grams come harvest time.  I would top or fim and get it outside where you have plenty of light, ASAP.


*Only to expose it to bugs ..? lol*


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## David_willis (Jun 18, 2015)

To correct a nitrogen deficiency using organic methods requires time, but will result in a more even distribution of the added nitrogen over time. Some organic methods of adding nitrogen to the soil include:

Adding composted manure to the soil
Planting a green manure crop, such as borage
Planting nitrogen fixing plants like peas or beans
Adding coffee grounds to the soil


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## gottaloveplasma (Jun 19, 2015)

http://oregonsonly.com/pegasus-potion 
Organic fast acting nitrogen with product support via email.


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