# Mono's 1st grow



## MoNoXiDe (Nov 14, 2013)

I started the germination tonight.  Paper towel and baggie method.
2 Super Skunk 2 Kali 47 and 1 Pineapple Punch.

2 mother plants will stay behind to clone from Super Skunk and Kali 47. The 3 others will continue to the flower tent.  

I chose Pro Mix HP as my medium. GH Nutes.

I am just going to LST for my first grow.  I will scrog next grow.


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## ShOrTbUs (Nov 15, 2013)

green mojo for you and your grow :48:


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## pcduck (Nov 15, 2013)

Good Luck.

Before keeping mothers I would run to completion to be sure they are worthy of being mothers. Some girls look great but no kick.


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## MoNoXiDe (Nov 16, 2013)

day 2 of germination, Pineapple Punch broke through.  The rest haven't.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Nov 16, 2013)

Congrats on getting your first grow up and going.

I don't keep mothers--I just don't have room.  I take clones from clones.  I have done this for years and years.  Some strains have gone 5 years before they start losing vigor.


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## MoNoXiDe (Nov 16, 2013)

I can't seem to post pics.  idk

I'll do it like this i guess.  

This is the Kali 47 or AK Mist

hxxp://farm8.staticflickr.com/7430/10893948455_11db6fa934_z.jpg

Super Skunk

hxxp://farm4.staticflickr.com/3727/10893995766_4bdcd77c08_z.jpg

Pineapple Punch

hxxp://farm8.staticflickr.com/7401/10894266603_406c58fd44_z.jpg

I think I might wait until the morning to bury them.


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## 7thG (Nov 16, 2013)

Most pictures are too large to post on here, especially if you have a high megapixel camera. I use, and I'm pretty sure a lot of others on here also use Picasa. 

Good luck with your grow! What do you have for your lighting?


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## ShOrTbUs (Nov 16, 2013)

a guide to posting pics

http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54594


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## MoNoXiDe (Nov 16, 2013)

I went ahead and put them in rr plugs.  Surrounded by the medium and watered them in.  1 super skunk didn't break through yet. It looked like it was about to.  I turned off 3/6 of the t5 bulbs.  There sitting about 4-5 inches away.  I put a dome over them too, not sure if that was needed or not.

Is it weird to have 7 ph out of my tap?


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## ozzydiodude (Nov 16, 2013)

no thats about where most public water co run there PH to help neutralize corrosion in pipes


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## MoNoXiDe (Nov 17, 2013)

7 is good right?


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## pcduck (Nov 17, 2013)

6.5 pH for soil
5.8 pH for hydro


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## The Hemp Goddess (Nov 17, 2013)

I never put them in the hydro unit until they are sprouted and have good root growth through the rapid rooters.  It is too hard to control the moisture otherwise.  If it is top drip and the rrs are too wet, the seeds will not sprout, but just rot in the medium.  I don't use a dome with seedlings.

Read up on pH--seems you have some misconceptions there and proper pH is critical when doing hydro.  However, it has to do with nutrient uptake, so while the seedlings are sprouting, water that is 7 whould be fine.  Here is a chart that shows nutrient uptake at different pH levels.  http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1833&d=1141100090


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## MoNoXiDe (Nov 17, 2013)

So, I should pull the plugs out of the medium.  I didnt have the propagation tray to put the plugs in.  Home Depot and Lowes said we will closer to spring.


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## MoNoXiDe (Nov 19, 2013)

4/5 sprouted.  3/4 have there 1st 2 leafs.  the strange thing is, is the first one to actually break through the soil, is only showing greenish white stem.  Its like it broke through without its leafs and is sitting there doing nothing.  Any ideas?  its been like that for about 2 days.  The other 3 are up and looking good.


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## MoNoXiDe (Nov 20, 2013)

i figured out what happened to the one that was growing funny.  It was upside down.  The roots were growing up and the leafs were down in the rr.  I took some tweezers and pull it out and stuck the root back down in the rr.  Hopefully it will be ok.


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## MoNoXiDe (Nov 30, 2013)

Well its 2 weeks into veg,  I've had 3 out of my 6 bulbs on.  When would be a good time to start turning more on?


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## sunakard2000 (Dec 1, 2013)

now... only about the first week is when the seedlings dont need full light, bump that up to a full fixturer and ride it out till flower, if they have their 2nd set of actual leaves (a set of 3 bladed leaves) they should be able to handle the full light fixture, heck i had my seedlings under my 4bulb 4ft T5 fixture about a day after they broke soil, i kept them about 12 inches from the light for the first do so it would stretch a tiny bit so the first set of leaves wasnt right at soil level, that way when i transplant i dont have to worry about covering up growth tips and/or nodes, after a day of being a foot away i move them up to about 4 inches away from the bulbs and let them sit there for a few weeks, by the time they are an inch away they usualy have about 4 sets of leaves already. then ill lower the plant as needed after that.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 1, 2013)

Is 6 bulbs overkill for as little as they are? You have 4 on.


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## sunakard2000 (Dec 1, 2013)

well as long as your giving them the minimum Lum required then i suppose its fine, more helps prevent veg stretch, id go with em all after the 2nd set of leaves is out and the 3rd set is growing in. as long as you dont have a major heat issue from 6 bulbs and are able to keep the fixture close and that they are at least older then a week or 2 theres no reason they cant handle full light.


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## 7thG (Dec 1, 2013)

ostpicsworthless:


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 1, 2013)

right now, I am having a humidity problem.  Its down around 25%.  I think if I added 2 more lights it would get worse.  Any thing I can do to get the humidity up?


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## ozzydiodude (Dec 1, 2013)

Why are you so concerned with the humidity? low humidity wont cause problems it high humidity that cause problems


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## Rosebud (Dec 1, 2013)

Mono, i have had really low too, and I put a pan of water in there.  When there is not humidity the leaves get rough.... Something i bet ozzy has never seen as he always has humidity.  Anyway, pans of water, wet towels.. It is not a huge problem.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 1, 2013)

Well, from what I've read it needs to be between 30-60% best to be 40-50%

So when I see 20's i started to worry.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 1, 2013)

Rosebud said:
			
		

> Mono, i have had really low too, and I put a pan of water in there.  When there is not humidity the leaves get rough.... Something i bet ozzy has never seen as he always has humidity.  Anyway, pans of water, wet towels.. It is not a huge problem.



 Yes, I noticed the leafs are curling a little.  I started spraying the top soil a couple times a day started doing that yesterday.


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## Rosebud (Dec 1, 2013)

Let the plants dry out completely and water as usual.  Deep watering...dry period.  Don't spray the top soil...that will only invite other problems..  Just stick a pan or two of water in the room.


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## Locked (Dec 1, 2013)

ozzydiodude said:
			
		

> Why are you so concerned with the humidity? low humidity wont cause problems it high humidity that cause problems



:yeahthat:

Low humidity very rarely causes problems. Pretty sure THG grows with very low humidity, my humidity in the Winter is around 20%. Never had a problem.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 1, 2013)

Here is some pics.  Also a pic of how close they are to the T5

hxxp://farm4.staticflickr.com/3706/11152634006_5ca85d3083.jpg

hxxp://farm6.staticflickr.com/5483/11152638406_8bd33d7b0e.jpg

I got the humidity up a little.  Thanks Rosebud

hxxp://http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3694/11152666564_d9f96b8679.jpg


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## ozzydiodude (Dec 1, 2013)

post pics here most of us will not look at pics on other sites


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 1, 2013)

Well, I must be an idiot, cause I can't seem to post pics on here.  I don't even see a image button anymore.  I just see the URL link.


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## ozzydiodude (Dec 1, 2013)

Click go advanced below the text entry box
scroll down to Add attachments on the right hand side middle way down the page and click on Add attachments
Click on choose file 
pick file
upload pic 
add to post


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## 7thG (Dec 1, 2013)

Yeah pics make grow journals interesting. And it helps the growers identify problems. 
I also have very low humidity in my grow. Right now its at 30. It ranges between 20 and 40. It hasn't really caused me any problems, just a little dryness to the leaves I guess. I didn't even know that was the cause until I read Rosebud's post just a second ago. 
It doesn't bother me too much because I know in flowering it will be a good thing. Good luck with your grow!:48:


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 1, 2013)

Test run.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 1, 2013)

I had to go to advanced and then scroll down below the text box to manage attachment. 

How do you make them clickable so someone can actually see them?


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## Locked (Dec 1, 2013)

MoNoXiDe said:
			
		

> How do you make them clickable so someone can actually see them?



If the pics you upload are not big enough they won't be clickable. 


I upload my pics with a size of 600x800. They show as small pics but are clickable.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 1, 2013)

Hamster Lewis said:
			
		

> If the pics you upload are not big enough they won't be clickable.
> 
> 
> I upload my pics with a size of 600x800. They show as small pics but are clickable.




I finally got the loading pics.  Resizing is on another level


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## Rosebud (Dec 1, 2013)

When i resize in paint. i take 30% for re sizing. and that works for me..


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 1, 2013)

sunakard2000 said:
			
		

> well as long as your giving them the minimum Lum required then i suppose its fine, more helps prevent veg stretch, id go with em all after the 2nd set of leaves is out and the 3rd set is growing in. as long as you dont have a major heat issue from 6 bulbs and are able to keep the fixture close and that they are at least older then a week or 2 theres no reason they cant handle full light.




I went to turn on the 3 bulbs that were off and 1 is blown.  wth, I haven't even had that one on yet.  

Is there a better bulb I should buy?  This one is a spectru... 6500k


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 1, 2013)

Rosebud said:
			
		

> When i resize in paint. i take 30% for re sizing. and that works for me..




mine does go to paint.  I see resize on there but it makes it look fuzzy.


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## Rosebud (Dec 1, 2013)

You click on edit and the picture is huge, then you go and hit resize and click 30... Then look at the bottom of the page and it will tell you the size the picture now is...just so it is under like 900 it should be ok.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 1, 2013)

sorry for the spam.  Just trying to get it working.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 1, 2013)

Yay !!


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## Rosebud (Dec 1, 2013)

YOu did it!!!!!
Now what was the question???


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 1, 2013)

Rosebud said:
			
		

> YOu did it!!!!!
> Now what was the question???



lol really.  someone wanted to see pics.  :icon_smile:


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 1, 2013)

How do they look?


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## 7thG (Dec 1, 2013)

Awesome MoNoXiDe! Thanks for getting some pics up!
Yours plants look llike there may be something wrong. Im sure they will be fine but ima look through your journal and see if I can find something. Good Luck and green mojo to your babies!


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## sunakard2000 (Dec 2, 2013)

well first off a few questions so we can help more accuretly, so how old are they? have you started feeding with 1/4 strength nutes yet? 
first off the larger 3 look like they could use a transplant, safe bet to say that if the plants leaves have extended to/over the edge of your cup then so have to roots, transplant time. 
also the yellowing, depending on the age they could be crying out for food. 
there could also be a pH problem, im not partial to pH problems as i grow organic and dont worry about it since the microbes do the adjusting for me.
humidity problem? i see none, the past month and a half since we started getting colder weather iv been down in the mid to low 20% RH and the plants dont seem to have even noticed, only down fall with low RH is when cloning youll need a dome of some sort to keep the RH in the 70%s, other then that they are absoutly fine.
as for the bulb, did you have the bulb IN the fixture simply turned so its off or did you compleatly take it OUT of the fixture? you may have knocked it taking it out/putting it in or if you left it in it could have gone bad from a partial connection for an extended period of time. and the 6500k is fine, thats the sweet spot for veg. 

ooh side note, lower humidity could effect the wet/dry cycle of the plant, it could increase the speed at which the soil drys out so its not a big problem just stay ontop of things and keep an eye on them until the are in larger pots then it will be easier to keep them on a proper cycle, eariler in the year with around 50% RH i was watering about every 3 days, sometimes every 2 days during the really hot weeks, now with hovering in the 20%s RH im watering every 2 days. youll get used to the wet/dry cycle as your grow progresses. as ozzy said dont worry too much about low RH, its the HIGH RH that is the nasty nasty killer of crops, since at high RH both insects and molds/rots thrive you wanna keep it down.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 2, 2013)

i started them from seeds on the 13th.  Put them in rr's on the 16th.  sprouted through dirt on the 18th.  the little one sprouted the roots up and the leafs in the dirt.  I had to pull it out and put it back in root down.  Thats why it is much smaller than the rest.  so today they are 2 weeks old exactly "from the day they broke through dirt"  

Yes, my bad on the light, I didnt realize you couldn't leave them in with a half twist.  Its crazy, I can just about buy a 4 bulb sunblaze for the same amount it is to buy a 4 pack of bulbs.  

Last night I just put them up closer to the light.  They were about 6-8" away, i put them about 3" away now.  

No, they haven't had nutrients yet.  However, I do have there new homes ready to transplant.  I wanted to transplant them first before giving there first feast.  Also wanted to check with ya'll to see if its ok to feed this early.


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## Rosebud (Dec 2, 2013)

You are doing fine...breathe... don't worry, your first grow is really scary. 

What are you planting them in now?


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 2, 2013)

This is where I didn't think it out.  My thoughts were to solo cup the 1st 2 weeks, switch them to half gallon jugs for 2-3 more weeks, then sink them in there final 7 gallon buckets until there ready for the flower tent. I dont know that I will have the room for the 7 gallon pots in my veg room.


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## Rosebud (Dec 2, 2013)

What kind of soil are you using when you transplant?

If you use jugs, make sure you have holes on the bottom and up the sides a little ways.  7 gallons is really big.  Most of us use 3 or 5 gallon pots..I use smart pots. I use fox farm soil, happy frog and that has nutes in it to last three weeks.


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## greenjoe (Dec 2, 2013)

MoNoXiDe said:
			
		

> This is where I didn't think it out.  My thoughts were to solo cup the 1st 2 weeks, switch them to half gallon jugs for 2-3 more weeks, then sink them in there final 7 gallon buckets until there ready for the flower tent. I dont know that I will have the room for the 7 gallon pots in my veg room.



I do almost the exact same as you but i go from seed to beer cup..for 4-5 weeks then into 4 gal pot...their final resting place....i just figure less stress on them and avoiding a phase of transplanting....IMO.but hey whatever works for you is good....Keep it up!!!


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 2, 2013)

Rosebud said:
			
		

> What kind of soil are you using when you transplant?
> 
> If you use jugs, make sure you have holes on the bottom and up the sides a little ways.  7 gallons is really big.  Most of us use 3 or 5 gallon pots..I use smart pots. I use fox farm soil, happy frog and that has nutes in it to last three weeks.



I know there big.  I'm only guessing there 7 gallon because they look bigger then a 5 gallon bucket.  

I am using Promix HP with perlite and dolomite lime.  2/3 Promix 1/3 perlite and a small handful of dolomite


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 2, 2013)

greenjoe said:
			
		

> I do almost the exact same as you but i go from seed to beer cup..for 4-5 weeks then into 4 gal pot...their final resting place....i just figure less stress on them and avoiding a phase of transplanting....IMO.but hey whatever works for you is good....Keep it up!!!



so you leave yours in a cup for 4-5 weeks?


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 2, 2013)

would it be ok to go from solo cup to 3 gallon to complete the veg cycle and then transplant to the 5-7 gallon for flowering.  or is that going to be too much stress?


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## greenjoe (Dec 2, 2013)

yes.....but i find i have to keep up on the watering almost daily when they get to like close to 4 weeks...if not they do this...................
none died as they are the ones i am finishing now...these ones were at 4 weeks


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## Rosebud (Dec 2, 2013)

MoNoXiDe said:
			
		

> would it be ok to go from solo cup to 3 gallon to complete the veg cycle and then transplant to the 5-7 gallon for flowering.  or is that going to be too much stress?




That would be fine. I hate to waste soil on boys so i keep mine in one gallon bags till they tell me what they are.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 2, 2013)

Rosebud said:
			
		

> That would be fine. I hate to waste soil on boys so i keep mine in one gallon bags till they tell me what they are.




I buy feminized seeds.  Is there still a chance of getting boys?


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## Rosebud (Dec 2, 2013)

I don't grow those, but most likely they will be girls..


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 2, 2013)

Take a look at the lumens thread.  My other issue going on lol


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## sunakard2000 (Dec 2, 2013)

so few things, yes unfortunally there is a chance at a male or hermie from FEM seeds, FEM seeds arnt natural so theres always a chance, granted small but still a chance,
topic of lights i posted in the lumen thread,
as for cups/pots i personaly dont leave them in the cups any longer then 10-14 days, i find by that time they are itchin to stretch out, and leaving them in longer results in root binding and that means it takes a little longer for the roots to stretch out into their new homes, i dont like anything more then a handful of roots around the edge of the cups, any more and it could cause issues, i know alot of people grow for upto a month in a cup but whats the point, watering 2x a day is stupid if yah ask me, fewer transplants is better, i go from cups to 2.25gal pots and finally up to 7gal smart pots but when possible i prefer to go from cups to 7gal smart pots, but seeing as i have a large rotation of vegging plants going on now its hard to keep more then 2 7gal in there with all the other plants, but for the size pots you have im sure 3 weeks to a month in those small pots wouldnt hurt, especially if space is an issue, no worries just try not to do anymore then 2 transplants cups to veg pot, then veg pot to flower pot. or what iv been doing recently sprout in rapid rooters and once they pop out and are about an inch tall i pop the RR in the veg pots, skip the cups all together. sorry for so many ideas lol just a few that came to mind.

other then that yeah i agree with rose... lookin good so far especially for a first grow, the first was defently the hardest, its hard to keep from over loving them lol, gotta let them do what they do.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 2, 2013)

thanks for the info.  I'm thinking maybe I could just get a 2 ft 2 bulb t5 and only put clones under it.  Keep the 4 ft 6 bulb to veg under and keep the 2 moms alive.  That would save me some money.  It will shrink up my veg area to 2x4 but I think that will be enough.  I would only have 2-3 half gallon and 2 5-7 gallon in that area

I will probably do rapid rooters, to a half gallon for 3-4 weeks, straight to the 5-7 gallon finish the veg and then move it to the flower tent.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 2, 2013)

i have to get to building.  The drywall and door should be in by this weekend.  I have to build a veg area once that's done.  Does the veg area have to be closed in?  Is it ok if branches are touching the walls?


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## Rosebud (Dec 2, 2013)

Would you like to live your life smashed up against a wall...that is a no...


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## sunakard2000 (Dec 2, 2013)

the plants need breathing room, ooh and if you shortened up your space from a 2x6 to even just a 2x5 your current light would be enough to keep you at the min lum count, actually right at 3000 per square foot. that idea about the 2ft 2bulb t5 is a good one, how ever if possible i would make the veg space no smaller then 2x4.5 i know its only a half foot but you would be absoutly suprised at how much space that extra half foot gives, made all the difference when i furred out my closet another 6-7 inches. that should help yah be able to space the plants out without too much bunching and it should help keep them from being smashed against a wall.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 5, 2013)

i took my terra pots back and just put in an order for smart pots.  they are cheaper then my terra pots too, so I saved money.


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## 7thG (Dec 5, 2013)

I have been wanting to try smart pots. The guy at my Hydro store uses them. He said if you use smart pots and then put a layer of perlite on top of your soil it helps keep the bugs out.


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## sunakard2000 (Dec 5, 2013)

i havnt heard of using perlite for that, its too soft, the reason for using diatamatious earth or sand is because the soil dweling insects are relatively soft and the DE/sand particals are very jagged thus slicing the crap outta the bugs as they try to either come up or go down through the DE/sand. perlite is far too chunky and not sharp, if it was me go with the smart pots, ignore that perlite idea the hydro guy gave you, ignore DE or sand and pay the money to get some Azamax, if/when you encounter a pest problem do a soil drench and foliar treatment, otherwise wait until your moving plants from veg to flower, give them a treatment then and it will help prevent pest problems through flower, its more of a preventative measure just to be safe. 
honestly with or without smart pots you can still have pest problems, the best way to cure this is to simply have some azamax on hand to use as a preventive measure when you move from veg to flower or for when a problem does arise. nip it quick and you wont have any prolonged problems. when i got thripes they were just as bad on the plants in reg plastic pots as the plants in smart pots, and finaly breaking down and paying the little extra for azamax only then did i finally win the war.
 reguardless of pot type or even medium or grow method (organic, hydro, soil-less) you can still get a pest problem, indoors or outdoors doesnt matter.
anywho back to the smart pots, i love em, they are great, really helps everything breath and the root in the smart pot compaired to a plastic pot are pretty rad, the entire bottom of the smart pot was covered in a thick webbing of roots and went up the sides about halfway, natural air pruning helps prevent root binding, instead of hitting a wall and growing elsewhere they try to get out and get pruned by the air, which tells the root to stop growing that direction and causes it to reall web out more in all directions, so the smart pots help keep roots from binding and harming the plant since they naturaly air prune them selves as they attempt to poke out of the pot, over all they promote a healthier root zone since roots dont bind they get pruned and web out more. i still use plastic pots for vegging since its easier to pull a plant out of a plastic pot then a fabric pot since the roots dont grow through the plastic and "grab on for dear life" like they do in smart pots, its a pain to transplant out of a smart pot. but for flowering i love them.


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## 7thG (Dec 5, 2013)

sunakard2000 said:
			
		

> i havnt heard of using perlite for that, its too soft, the reason for using diatamatious earth or sand is because the soil dweling insects are relatively soft and the DE/sand particals are very jagged thus slicing the crap outta the bugs as they try to either come up or go down through the DE/sand. perlite is far too chunky and not sharp, if it was me go with the smart pots, ignore that perlite idea the hydro guy gave you, ignore DE or sand and pay the money to get some Azamax, if/when you encounter a pest problem do a soil drench and foliar treatment, otherwise wait until your moving plants from veg to flower, give them a treatment then and it will help prevent pest problems through flower, its more of a preventative measure just to be safe.
> honestly with or without smart pots you can still have pest problems, the best way to cure this is to simply have some azamax on hand to use as a preventive measure when you move from veg to flower or for when a problem does arise. nip it quick and you wont have any prolonged problems. when i got thripes they were just as bad on the plants in reg plastic pots as the plants in smart pots, and finaly breaking down and paying the little extra for azamax only then did i finally win the war.
> reguardless of pot type or even medium or grow method (organic, hydro, soil-less) you can still get a pest problem, indoors or outdoors doesnt matter.
> anywho back to the smart pots, i love em, they are great, really helps everything breath and the root in the smart pot compaired to a plastic pot are pretty rad, the entire bottom of the smart pot was covered in a thick webbing of roots and went up the sides about halfway, natural air pruning helps prevent root binding, instead of hitting a wall and growing elsewhere they try to get out and get pruned by the air, which tells the root to stop growing that direction and causes it to reall web out more in all directions, so the smart pots help keep roots from binding and harming the plant since they naturaly air prune them selves as they attempt to poke out of the pot, over all they promote a healthier root zone since roots dont bind they get pruned and web out more. i still use plastic pots for vegging since its easier to pull a plant out of a plastic pot then a fabric pot since the roots dont grow through the plastic and "grab on for dear life" like they do in smart pots, its a pain to transplant out of a smart pot. but for flowering i love them.


 
Oh well I'm not sure how effective that method would be I was just passing on the info since he is getting smart pots. I keep hearing about this Diatomaceous earth I think I'm going to check it out I've never used it and I'm not really familiar with it.


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## sunakard2000 (Dec 5, 2013)

well yah put about an inch thick layer of DE on the top of the soil, its sharp jagged particals slice the bugs up, you also have to bottom feed for a few weeks so you dont wash the DE into the soil making it useless, it can be dangerious to work with too, need gloves and a dust mask if yah ask me, honestly the easiest way i found is azamax, purely in the way it works, instead of simply slicing the bugs up as they move through the DE the azamax actually interrupts their natural life cycle, interrupting things like their egg laying capability, molting capability, and interrupts them from feeding. basically it makes larva unable to grow into adults so they die, adults cant lay eggs so they cant keep the life cycle going, pretty much knocks out all stages in their life cycle in some way. one treatment and done none survive. i prefer this since its proven to work, always works on normal pest problems and may need an additional treatment on massive infestations but at that point id scrap the crop. also i prefer this because id rather top feed cuz its easier for me since i dont have a basin to sit them in that i can fill with water. thats just me though.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 7, 2013)

I gave the first nutes to the plants yesterday. ph 6.5 ppm was 249.  A little high for the 1st go, I'll keep a good eye on them.  

Today I started LST.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 7, 2013)

couple pics.   I finished the room.  I just need heat and air in there.  Also, can I vent air from inside the flower tent into the room, to help control heat in the winter? or is it better to just use a heater and vent out the window?


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## budz4me (Dec 8, 2013)

In a sealed room like that I would stick with the latter. 

My room has fresh air grilles and such so I just recirculate the air.

Keep in mind you will need an air intake from outdoors or indoors as well.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 8, 2013)

budz4me said:
			
		

> In a sealed room like that I would stick with the latter.
> 
> My room has fresh air grilles and such so I just recirculate the air.
> 
> Keep in mind you will need an air intake from outdoors or indoors as well.



Air intake?  Another inline fan to pull air from outside?


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## 7thG (Dec 9, 2013)

Hey just curious was that room built specifically for you grow?


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 9, 2013)

7thG said:
			
		

> Hey just curious was that room built specifically for you grow?



Yes


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## The Hemp Goddess (Dec 9, 2013)

MoNoXiDe said:
			
		

> thanks for the info.  I'm thinking maybe I could just get a 2 ft 2 bulb t5 and only put clones under it.  Keep the 4 ft 6 bulb to veg under and keep the 2 moms alive.  That would save me some money.  It will shrink up my veg area to 2x4 but I think that will be enough.  I would only have 2-3 half gallon and 2 5-7 gallon in that area
> 
> I will probably do rapid rooters, to a half gallon for 3-4 weeks, straight to the 5-7 gallon finish the veg and then move it to the flower tent.



Clones need very little light.  CFLs will do for cloning.  

I have asked this several times, but never got an answer.  If room is precious, why are you even keeping mothers?


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 9, 2013)

The Hemp Goddess said:
			
		

> Clones need very little light.  CFLs will do for cloning.
> 
> I have asked this several times, but never got an answer.  If room is precious, why are you even keeping mothers?




Sorry about that, I thought I said somewhere, that I will do away with the mothers and clone like advised.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 9, 2013)

Would a simple grill be ok for fresh air intake?  I would think I would lose a lot of cool air in the summer time with a grill installed into the wall.  Any other route I can take?


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 10, 2013)

one of my plants is already showing white hairs. there just 3 weeks old.  uncommon or common?  anything to worry about?


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## Sin inc (Dec 10, 2013)

hey monoxide just got up on your tread i see you just getting this going. your doing good so far just remember. the less you mess with your plants the better they will do. and some time plants do show pre hairs at this time i would guess it depends on the genes.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 11, 2013)

Thanks


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## 7thG (Dec 11, 2013)

MoNoXiDe said:
			
		

> Would a simple grill be ok for fresh air intake?  I would think I would lose a lot of cool air in the summer time with a grill installed into the wall.  Any other route I can take?


 
Hey Mono I am pretty sure he was just saying you need a supply of fresh air coming into the room. It doesn't need to be a powered intake. Usually just having a filtered opening is enough. The vacuum created from your exhaust fan will suck air through your passive intake. That's awesome you built a room for your grow! I always wanted to do that and then make a hidden passage into it behind a bookshelf with the book lever and everything. 
Anyway good luck and green mojo.


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## 7thG (Dec 11, 2013)

I don't really know enough about the room you built from the picture to be sure what your best option is but if it was me I would probably be looking into getting a vent from Home Depot or something to put at the bottom of the wall on the side the dresser is on. Then I would run some ducting from that. It will look just like any other HVAC vent from the outside. The ducting is important because you can control where there air goes and if you need to you can loop it around so no light is coming out of the vent.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 12, 2013)

7thG said:
			
		

> I don't really know enough about the room you built from the picture to be sure what your best option is but if it was me I would probably be looking into getting a vent from Home Depot or something to put at the bottom of the wall on the side the dresser is on. Then I would run some ducting from that. It will look just like any other HVAC vent from the outside. The ducting is important because you can control where there air goes and if you need to you can loop it around so no light is coming out of the vent.



thanks!  I really don't mind light coming into the room.  The flowering will be in the tent still.  

I will just hook up a small vent.  I need to replace a vent inside my house anyway.  I'l buy a new one for that and take the old one and use it on this.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Dec 12, 2013)

MoNoXiDe said:
			
		

> one of my plants is already showing white hairs. there just 3 weeks old.  uncommon or common?  anything to worry about?



This is very uncommon unless it is an auto.  I have found that a lot of new growers mistake new growth for pistils.  Be patient as time will tell.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 12, 2013)

The Hemp Goddess said:
			
		

> This is very uncommon unless it is an auto.  I have found that a lot of new growers mistake new growth for pistils.  Be patient as time will tell.



I went back and looked at the strain.  The company is called Auto Seeds, Pineapple Punch.  I'm thinking maybe it is a auto.


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## Locked (Dec 12, 2013)

Sounds like an auto strain.


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## ShOrTbUs (Dec 12, 2013)

with an auto the general consensus is 20/4 all the way through for optimal growth. but for people who like to run photo period plants, conforming your light schedule to an auto just become a hassle. i've grown 2 so far, and they both did fine under 24/0 for 3-4 weeks, and 12/12 the rest of the way. it has a set life cycle, so its most likely not going to get very big away. 

i looked up the strain. it says 65-80days, so just count off the days and start checking trichs at 65days. cut her down when u think she is done

:48: SB


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## ozzydiodude (Dec 12, 2013)

:yeahthat:


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 12, 2013)

ShOrTbUs said:
			
		

> with an auto the general consensus is 20/4 all the way through for optimal growth. but for people who like to run photo period plants, conforming your light schedule to an auto just become a hassle. i've grown 2 so far, and they both did fine under 24/0 for 3-4 weeks, and 12/12 the rest of the way. it has a set life cycle, so its most likely not going to get very big away.
> 
> i looked up the strain. it says 65-80days, so just count off the days and start checking trichs at 65days. cut her down when u think she is done
> 
> :48: SB



i thought that was 65-80 days in flower tent.


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## sunakard2000 (Dec 12, 2013)

typicaly yes it is, how ever autos have a finite life span, which is as they say 65-80 days, after that estimated life span the plant will start to die, it may last a week or 2 longer but not much after that. also i recommend DEEP pots, 18inches deep is the sweet spot it seems for autos, every picture iv seen of other peoples autos in smaller pots and/or on 12/12 light schedule are only about 1/3 the size of the autos iv got going right now, usualy i see 1 main cola with 4 side branches that are like a quarter the size of the main cola. iv got at least 10+ side branches on all 5 of my autos, plus massive main colas. so i highly suggest deep pots to make them at least worth the while, if this is all your running at the moment it might be a good idea to go with 20/4 instead of 12/12, youll get better end results especialy when comboed with deep pots.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 15, 2013)

Here are some updates on the cabinet in the new room.  I am almost ready to move everything in there.


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## ShOrTbUs (Dec 15, 2013)

lookin good


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## Sin inc (Dec 15, 2013)

yes mono your looking good so far


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 16, 2013)

i just spent the morning transplanting the ladies into 5 gallon smart pots.


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## ozzydiodude (Dec 16, 2013)

:48: Green Mojo


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 17, 2013)

I moved the ladies to the new cabinet.  I still have to move the flower tent and the inline fan.


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## ShOrTbUs (Dec 17, 2013)

MoNoXiDe said:
			
		

> I moved the ladies to the new cabinet.  I still have to move the flower tent and the inline fan.



as the plant's grow you can fold down the rim of the smart pots so that it's only like a 1/2" from the top of the soil. makes it easier for trimming and watering when they begin to get wider.


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## robertr (Dec 17, 2013)

These are my 2 BCBD The Purps, you can see the pistols on the one one right if you look close, they both have them.


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## robertr (Dec 17, 2013)

Here is a better picture.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 19, 2013)

Now that I have them in their new cabinet.  Temp is a concern.  I have a small heater in the room to try to keep it warm.  I checked them this morning and it was 64 degrees.  What temp is too low?


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## Hushpuppy (Dec 19, 2013)

I personally don't like for mine to drop below 60f as I have had problems below that temp. If they are in soil that can keep the roots warm then they can handle lower temps. I prefer to keep them between 65(low) and 75(high) but invariably they will go outside of that range. I try to keep them within that range but a few days outside won't hurt anything


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## ShOrTbUs (Dec 19, 2013)

Hushpuppy said:
			
		

> I personally don't like for mine to drop below 60f as I have had problems below that temp. If they are in soil that can keep the roots warm then they can handle lower temps. I prefer to keep them between 65(low) and 75(high) but invariably they will go outside of that range. I try to keep them within that range but a few days outside won't hurt anything



to add on to this, going too high 75-80 is better for the plants then accidentally going too low < 60F.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 20, 2013)

While in my closet it stayed in the 80's.  I think its going to be harder to cool in the summer then it is heating in the winter.


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## ShOrTbUs (Dec 20, 2013)

MoNoXiDe said:
			
		

> While in my closet it stayed in the 80's.  I think its going to be harder to cool in the summer then it is heating in the winter.




it almost always is. a lot of indoor growers don't even do runs in the summer because of the heat problems


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 23, 2013)

Here they are almost 5 weeks old.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 24, 2013)

With the one being an auto, how will I know when I should switch it to the flower tent?  would it be a waste of electricity having it be the only plant in the 4x4 tent?  Do I still use the rule of thumb alternating nodes?


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## Kysupergrower (Dec 24, 2013)

No it is an auto so just watch it grow.it needs no special light cycle but I recommend a 16 on 8 off to get the most out of her!!.green mojo and u can check me out over at my blueberry grow!.


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## ozzydiodude (Dec 24, 2013)

Like KYSG said just watch her grow. The auto's are just that a time driven automatically flowering plant


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## sunakard2000 (Dec 24, 2013)

20 on 4 off is the best for autos... i just recently harvested my 4 budda purple kush plants... 6.2oz total... from autos... the deep pots ~18 inches deep and 20/4 defently made the difference. at 5 weeks mine were twice to 3 times the size. that does look good though.


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## MoNoXiDe (Dec 24, 2013)

unfortunately, i would have to 20/4 all the plants in the veg room if I were to do that.  I could take them out and put them in the tent for 4 hours a day and move back and forth.  that would be a PITA though.  I will just stick with straight 24/0 and see what happens. 

at 5 weeks yours was 3x larger?  what could I be doing wrong besides the light to have it so small?


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## sunakard2000 (Dec 26, 2013)

depth of the pot is the only other thing i can think of that would have made the difference, all 4 of the budda purple kush and the freebie purple auto were all about 2.5-3 ft tall from soil level.


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