# puzzeled by yellow leaves



## presidential760 (Jun 14, 2014)

have three plants growing. blkberry kush, la con and fire og. the fire og is the issue. it is taller than the rest and side shoots are thin and slanky. at first i thought it was potass or phos but it didnt take care of the problem but rather gave the flowering a boost. i had recently noticed a gnat issue and finally gained ground. along with this issue, i had disconnected the exhaust side of my light shroud and allowed cold air from the a/c to cool the inside of the tent and thought it might have contributed to one side of the fire to yellow which the back was not affected nor were the other two (the exhaust was indirectly over the effected side of the plant). also im not sure if it matters but the other two plants tips and edges of leaves get brown each time i feed. ph always at 6.2-6.5 with water temp at 75. today i feed with nutes at 6.4 ph but drainage was at 7.0-6.9. is this way leaves showing a PH issue? :ccc:


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## Rosebud (Jun 15, 2014)

Can you post a picture please, that would help us greatly.

Welcome to MP by the way. Enjoy your time here.


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## Hushpuppy (Jun 15, 2014)

Yeah we really need to see a picture of them as there can be one or more of several things happening. Also, are they in soil or soilless medium, hydro? What age are they at and are they in flower at this point? What are you feeding and how often?


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## presidential760 (Jun 17, 2014)

new to this and trying to get the hang. just uploaded pictures from phone. will have better ones wednesday. thanks for the quick responce. View attachment IMG_0617.jpg
 the purple in the stems have faded with the new growth.


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## EsC420PoT (Jun 17, 2014)

Welcome! "Abnormal yellowing of leaf tissue is called chlorosis. Leaves lack the essential green pigment chlorophyll. Possible causes include poor drainage, damaged roots, compacted roots, high soil pH, and nutrient deficiencies in the plant.

 Although due to the tint of your HPS, it's hard for me to see which part of the yellowing is your leaves and whats emitted form the light. however, usually when I see yellowing, its because of lack of Nitrogen. Maybe try adding something that will boost the nitrogen levels a bit. (Not sure what to suggest as I've never used anything other than a chemical nutrient.) Or, you simply need more nutrients. A lot of the time, ive seen leaves yellow off the overall lack of nutrients. What kinda nutrients are you using? Maybe p.h. a lil pail of water with just a lil extra bit of nutes in it, and try watering as often as you normally would and see if that makes a difference. Also what kind of soil are you using? That could play a big part. For soil, the adequate P.h. level is around 6.4-6.8 at least for my personal preference. Seem that this wouldn't be a result of your p.h. But, it def. seems like its a nitrogen deficiency so adding more nutes that your using or, adding a specific ingredient for nitrogen, I feel would fix your problem.  

  My rule of thumb has always been  if it's crumbly its phosphorus, if its yellow, it's nitrogen. Also, maybe try watering more often?
Although, I must say, your plants look perfectly fine to me... The yellow is from the tint of your HPS Light. As far as I can tell, your plant is a very dark green. Hope this helps


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## presidential760 (Jun 17, 2014)

I'm using fox farms at full dose on 8th week scheduling and have been full dose since got the plants back on May 3 (3 weeks veg then) The plant is in its third week of flower. It's grown in soil by Kellogg and have been at 6.4-6.7 ph. Will post new pics after 1800 hrs when lites go on. If soil loose 2-3" only and rest feels tight would it be a problem? I ask because the other two are also same soil structure and doing well.


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## EsC420PoT (Jun 17, 2014)

Loosened soil is actually better for root growth. I mean not so lose it flutters away in the wind, but not so compacted to feels almost like a solid. You want a nice lose yet compacted fit. losen allows the roots to move easier and fast in search of water and growth. However, the best you could do at this point,(if you feel the soil is to compacted) is just very carefully  losen up the top couple inches of the soil. Really all you can do when your plants are this far along. However, I really don't feel this would be a problem, and at most would just stunt the growth of your plant, not cause nutrient deficiencies. Ive never heard of the type of soil your using, but it could be the soil or the combination of the nutrients in the soil as well as the combined nutrients you water with. Although... These plants look fairly old, and im sure the nutrients in the soil have damn near been used up you know? And everything else you've stated seems legit. Let me ask, is this yellowing on the tops part or lower parts of the plants?? or all over the plants? What could be happening is your top is to close to your light, therefore causing them to burn and yellow up a bit. how far is your HPS. And forgive me if you stated this, what wattage is your light?


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## presidential760 (Jun 17, 2014)

I'm using 400. This was the first time using this soil. Usually I use fox farms ocean. But a grower I met at Home Depot suggested the brand for cost but ingredients were close. I'm using liquid nutes and he uses guano at different levels of transplant. Not sure if that matters. This plant had a gnat infestation which took about 2 weeks to gain ground and eliminate. The leave yellowing started at the bottom and worked its way up. I've increased beastie bloom into the watering bwt nute feeding twice and new growth has improved. The other thing I corrected was reconnecting the exhaust side of my lite canopy when lites are out. I has disconnected the end to allow for cool air from a/c to keep inside tent cool. The open end was on the side effecting the plant. The backside of plant those leaves or stems were affected. I had also introduced silica, b1 at that time but the other two( different indicas) were not bothered.


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## presidential760 (Jun 17, 2014)

here are better pictures. atleast the yellow is more definedView attachment IMG_0664.jpg


View attachment IMG_0665.jpg


View attachment IMG_0663.jpg


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## jingo (Jun 17, 2014)

Last pic looks like magnesium def. Yellow between the veins if that's what I'm seeing?


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## Hackerman (Jun 18, 2014)

On your camera, there is a setting for something called white balance. Bring up your cameras menu and look for "White Balance". Under that menu is 4 choices, Daylight, Overcast, Tungsten Light and Florescent Light.

Set it for Tungsten and it should help with the pictures of your plants.


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## Hushpuppy (Jun 18, 2014)

Either than or go in and take pictures right after the lights turn off. If you can take pics with standard flash within a few minutes of the lights going off, it won't have any bad effects on the plants.

I would hesitate to add more nitrogen to the soil at this point because you are in flowering and added nitrogen can cause flowering to "pause".
I believe The Hemp Goddess uses the Kellogs soil for her growing needs.  I believe it is nutrient free and is able to be used for organic or synthetic nutrients. It may have some organi nutrients available but probably very little iff any.


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## Hushpuppy (Jun 18, 2014)

It looks like the nutrients that you are adding is causing some burning of the leaves. I bet you need to flush the soil good as you may have salt build up that is causing toxic lock out. That is not uncommon with FF nutes. Pretty much, anyone using synthetic nutrients should flush their plants/soil once at the change over from veg to fflower. I always do it at the end of the 3rd week of flower when I have cut off all grow nutrients.

I would flush all of the plants with water in order to clean the salts out of the soil. Even if it isn't needed, it won't hurt the plants to do it, and it will allow you to start feeding fresh nutrients. Just use 3x the amount of water as the volume of soil in each plant. pour the water in very slow and let it soak through and run out. You may have to put something under the plants to catch the runoff while you flush.

Once you fflush them, allow them to dry out good before beginning nutes again. If you continue to see leaf tip burn after feeding, reduce the amount of nutes some for those plants that show the burning tips. Some plants like a lot of nutes some don't. I understand that Satori is a very light nute eater while Blueberry punch is a nute hogg.


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## jingo (Jun 18, 2014)

Watch what you do with your run off when you flush I used FF nutes and dumped my flush water out under a tree and killed the tree. I don't use rated quantities of anything anymore.


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## presidential760 (Jun 20, 2014)

i would like to thank everyone who has responded to my concern. thanks hushpuppy for the pic suggestion. i took some and i hope it helps id the issue. this is my third grow and in the previous two i lost three out of three plants due to one thing or another (aphids, spidermites, mold). this is my first that im getting some noticable improvments in the buds. im keepping a journel of all my attempts and make adjustments from experiance of my own and those of others. i read but more of a hands on learner. in reference the salt build up issue, i have noticed hard white build up on the o/s of cloth bags the plants are in and more so on the affected plant. after i flushed last night, the bags were better and i was able to loosen the soil a bit which gave it an airy appearance. the water was able to sip from the entire bag rather than just from the bottom. here are the pictures taken. 

View attachment IMG_0673.jpg


View attachment IMG_0671.jpg


View attachment IMG_0670.jpg


View attachment IMG_0669.jpg


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## presidential760 (Jun 20, 2014)

also it is in the third week of flowering. does it appear where it should be? also can anyone provide a link where i would find infomation as to how to grow a particular strain? i have blkberry kush, la confidential and fire og (the one in stress). im usong full doses of nutes and noticed this time around browning on the tips. i will reduce to half and see how it goes. i try to keep the ppms in the range of the schedule of fox farm in the area of 1200-1300 but only get in the area of 600-700 (full doses) and even then i get brn tips. maybe the salt issue might correct this?


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## Hushpuppy (Jun 20, 2014)

That both sounds and looks like it was a toxic buildup of nutrient salts that get left over when the plants take in the nutrient from synthetic nute brands. Some brands seem to have more salt build up than others.

You may not see a lot of improvement due to the plants being in flower but you should see some improvement and you should see better bud development.


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## presidential760 (Jun 20, 2014)

Thanks a lot for your help. I hope that the small amount of nitro didn't stun the buds. I noticed that you made containers for hydro. That's something I would like to get into after I get this down. I would like to address this with you in the future. Again thanks for the positive outlook. Will let you know how they harvested. Also do you know of a link regarding what strains can handle regarding nutes and ph?


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## Hushpuppy (Jun 20, 2014)

I am happy to help. If you want advice on the hydro setup that I do just PM me and I will explain it. There's no links to any charts on how much nutes different plant strains can handle. The best way to do that is to begin with light amounts while in early veg and gradually increase each week as the plants grow and progress. You will continue to increase to a point during veg then level off. Iff the plants begin to show deep green color with leaf curl like "clawing" shape and/or leaf tips begin to burn, then just back off to the previous level of nutes and the over-nute symptoms will subside.

If you have a TDS meter, it makes doing this much easier as you can measure the nutes and go by a set program of starting out at about 300ppm and increase by about 100-150ppm each week until you get to 650-800ppm. typically the Indica dominant plants will take 800-900ppm while the more Sativa dominant will like less, around 600-800ppm. That is not a "dead set" number for them though as there are so many variations. I usually will increase to around 650ppm then begin watching the plants very closely for their growth so that I can stop increasing before getting to the max level. I do this because maxing out the nutrients during veg will cause the plants to grow wildly and you will just end up having to trim them back more. Once they go into flower, I begin increasing the nutrients again and continue increasing the "bloom" nutes while cutting back the "grow" nutes. I shoot for getting to around 1200-1300ppm on most of my hybrid plants that are 50/50 sat/ind but I continue to watch for any signs of over-nute.

I hope this helps.


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## Hushpuppy (Jun 20, 2014)

Here is the pH and nutrient availability charts:
http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10083


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## presidential760 (Jun 21, 2014)

Got it thanks. I will be getting some clones and will give it another try. Basically trying to grow so that I can make RSO. Best stuff I've used for chemo and the after effects but too costly. I appreciate the help you've provided as it makes sense of how to reach higher levels of ppm. I measure the ppms before adding any PH up or dwn as I noticed it changes the ppm/ec reading. Will be in touch. Semper Fi?


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## Kraven (Jun 21, 2014)

Hushpuppy said:


> I am happy to help. If you want advice on the hydro setup that I do just PM me and I will explain it. There's no links to any charts on how much nutes different plant strains can handle. The best way to do that is to begin with light amounts while in early veg and gradually increase each week as the plants grow and progress. You will continue to increase to a point during veg then level off. Iff the plants begin to show deep green color with leaf curl like "clawing" shape and/or leaf tips begin to burn, then just back off to the previous level of nutes and the over-nute symptoms will subside.
> 
> If you have a TDS meter, it makes doing this much easier as you can measure the nutes and go by a set program of starting out at about 300ppm and increase by about 100-150ppm each week until you get to 650-800ppm. typically the Indica dominant plants will take 800-900ppm while the more Sativa dominant will like less, around 600-800ppm. That is not a "dead set" number for them though as there are so many variations. I usually will increase to around 650ppm then begin watching the plants very closely for their growth so that I can stop increasing before getting to the max level. I do this because maxing out the nutrients during veg will cause the plants to grow wildly and you will just end up having to trim them back more. Once they go into flower, I begin increasing the nutrients again and continue increasing the "bloom" nutes while cutting back the "grow" nutes. I shoot for getting to around 1200-1300ppm on most of my hybrid plants that are 50/50 sat/ind but I continue to watch for any signs of over-nute.
> 
> I hope this helps.



yea he looks to be in if not close too a full lockout.....flush, and then come back with 1/4 to 1/2 strength nutes if you don't have a TDS meter.


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## Hushpuppy (Jun 22, 2014)

presidential760 said:


> Got it thanks. I will be getting some clones and will give it another try. Basically trying to grow so that I can make RSO. Best stuff I've used for chemo and the after effects but too costly. I appreciate the help you've provided as it makes sense of how to reach higher levels of ppm. I measure the ppms before adding any PH up or dwn as I noticed it changes the ppm/ec reading. Will be in touch. Semper Fi?


I also measure the ppm before adjusting the pH as it adds to the ppm but doesn't affect the plants much outside of adjusting the pH. It is also good to check the ppm of your source water to make sure you don't have too much off some elements. Especially with well water, you can get a lot of heavy minerals like calcium, iron, or sulfur. And they can cause you to have lock-out or toxicity over time. 

 When you get your rooted clones, start your feeding at about 300ppm and give them a week to see how they like it. Then if they respond well, which they should, then raise it to about 400ppm, and give them a week, continue doing this until you get up to about 600-700ppm(if they are Sativa dominant, 800-900 if they are Indica dominant) then hold at that point until you go to fflower. Grow Mojo Warrior Grower


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