# Any tips for enriching outdoor soil?



## MeNtAlPaTiEnT (May 6, 2009)

Found a great spot, although the area is _very_ marshy. You can hear the ground squish under you when walking around the area. Digging a foot under the ground, the hole fills up with water. Now, the spot I've chosen to grow is quite a ways away, and hauling soil in (probably 2 bags at a time) will take at least 10 trips to bring in all the potting soil. 

The area I've chosen to grow at has a lot of tall grass that grows. You can probably find this grass growing in fields and whatnot. Perhaps if I decided to dig a big hole somewhere and put this soil into 4 gallon buckets, and I know this soil is probably low grade stuff compared to commercial potting soil... how can I go about enriching this soil? Should I add some perlite/vermiculite and ferts to this soil? There's a lot of pine trees around and I've read that the soil there can be quite acidic, so I'll stick to the soil that's already in the area... Any ideas? I _really_ don't want to haul in 10-15 bags of soil.


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## ozzydiodude (May 6, 2009)

Hey Mental This is what I have done for years
1) Dig up 2'x2' area per plant break up til it look like atiller has bee run through it.
2)cover area with 2" to 4" of sand work into soil good(The more clay in the soil the more sand you use) 
3)cover area with 3" of compost work into the soil and sand
4)cover with 1" of perlite work into the soil,sandand compost mix
5)plant plants
By mixing each thing in 1 at a time you completely break up the soil. This make it easier on the plant to root.
Figure on carrying a 5gal bucket of sand and compost per area. The deeper you dig up the area the better off you will be. the plants can put out deeper roots and be able to withstand harsh weather better.


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## MeNtAlPaTiEnT (May 6, 2009)

Thanks for the reply ozzydiodude. You mentioned applying sand to the soil.. This helps to what? I'll take your advice and look into getting some compost and some perlite as well. Sand will be a piece of cake to aquire .


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## ozzydiodude (May 6, 2009)

Sand works to keep soils open for air movement adding red worm or any worms you catch helps to keep soils loose for easy water and air to move through. It don't let the clays clump back together.


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## MeNtAlPaTiEnT (May 6, 2009)

Thanks a lot for the advice. By doing all this, you don't think deeper down in the soil, it won't be too wet for good growth? But oh yes, the sand allows for air movement, so it wouldn't matter how wet it gets down there?


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## ozzydiodude (May 6, 2009)

If there is tomuch water you will have problem with root rot. IMO If water is 16" deep leave 4" of undesturbed soil between the water and the bottom of your hole Mound up the area if the water is to close to the surface of the ground. Too much water is as bad as not enough.


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## MeNtAlPaTiEnT (May 6, 2009)

Well, about a foot down and the hole starts filling up with water... I've been thinking about using buckets instead and using the soil from the surrounding area in those. I could use your method for working the soil and then simply put that soil in the buckets. Would I be better off doing it this way?


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## ozzydiodude (May 6, 2009)

I would mound the dirt up. then put soil mixture on top just LST the plant to keep them lower and less chance of being spoted


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## MeNtAlPaTiEnT (May 6, 2009)

Oh right, that makes sense mounding it up. Great idea! Missed that part on your other post.


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## MeNtAlPaTiEnT (May 6, 2009)

A question... Wouldn't mounding the dirt up be visible from the air? Hmmmm it's got me thinking. On the other hand, when the plant gets big enough it will surely cover the base of the plant.


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## bombbudpuffa (May 7, 2009)

I just dig a hole, saving some of the soil from the hole. Fill the hill with whatever I grow inside with , plant the plant and cover the indoor soil with a lil of the original dirt from the hole. Get amazing growth with Sunshine in a hole.


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## The Effen Gee (May 7, 2009)

would that be mix#4?


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## cubby (May 7, 2009)

From the conditions you're describing I'd assume success is very unlikely. I've been reading this thread and trying to figure a way to optimise the situation.About the only thing I could come up with is to plant ontop of the ground.
Get your self some 10-15 gallon trash cans paint them flat green/brown/tan to cammoflage them. Cut off the bottoms. Put them in a 6 inch deep hole. Fill them with equal parts peat moss, composted manuer, sand, and perlite. Add your plants.
By cutting off the bottoms of the trash cans the compost and peatmoss will wick the water from the marsh through the trash can while maintaining a oxygen rich mixture. 
Hope these ideas helped in some way. Best of luck.


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## umbra (May 7, 2009)

humic acid, bokashi, activated efficient microorganisms, trichoderma, mycorrihiaze. humic acid will help with drainage and aeration. Other ingrediants with nute absorption.


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## MeNtAlPaTiEnT (May 7, 2009)

Thanks for the tips fellas. I got my mind on turning over the soil in the area and adding compost, sand, and perlite and mixing it all together and then putting the mix into 4 or 5 gallon buckets. Cubby, your idea is great though and sounds totally plausible. Maybe this would work with buckets instead of trash cans?


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## ozzydiodude (May 7, 2009)

IMO the plastic buckets would holed the moisture in and not allow for good air flow in the soil.The soil would pull up water and the bucket or trash can would not allow for good evaporation.  A berlap contained would be better. The sun hitting the trash can would heat the root zone up makin it harder for the roots to do their job.


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## nvthis (May 7, 2009)

Hey Mental, Have you scouted this spot _later_ in the year? Does the water subside with the summer months? or pretty much stay that wet all year?
Also, don't forget the lime, especially if you have a concern about the soil being too acidic.


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## ozzydiodude (May 7, 2009)

Thank nvthis I forgot the hand full of lime I was PUI at the time but then again when am I not PUI of something.
I kinda took for granted he had the area totally scouted


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## clanchattan (May 7, 2009)

important fact i've found in outdoor soil preperation. MJ likes a soil preped for corn, if your a gardener/farmer. Wide semi- shallow beds of about 3 'x'3 x 12"-14" deep has allways worked well for me.


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## MeNtAlPaTiEnT (May 7, 2009)

> Hey Mental, Have you scouted this spot _later_ in the year? Does the water subside with the summer months? or pretty much stay that wet all year?
> Also, don't forget the lime, especially if you have a concern about the soil being too acidic.


I havn't been to the spot in late summer before, only this year. I'm _pretty_ sure the place is marshy all summer long, but who knows, maybe it dries up a bit when it starts getting warmer. Thanks for the lime reminder! Maybe I could dig up some soil from the forest and use this as well. There is moss growing in abundance everywhere all over the forest floor, so maybe this soil is very rich? Hmm.


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## Mutt (May 8, 2009)

Couple of things that are great additives
Greensand
Kelp
Worm Castings
Composted manure...i prefer horse over cow
Seabird and Bat Guano
Just to name a few

Others use Bone and Blood meal with great success but my plots always got dug up when i used it outdoor.

If you want i can post up some good soilmix recipes.


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## MeNtAlPaTiEnT (May 8, 2009)

Thanks Mutt. I'm starting to feel a little more confident about not having to haul in a dozen potting soil bags. I've searched at my local Home Depot and Walmart, but none of these places have bat guano. I've seen a lot of worm castings on sale and I've got a bag of Bone and Blood meal so I've got a few supplies already. Would it be wise to add some perlite/vermiculite as well?


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## MeNtAlPaTiEnT (May 8, 2009)

Found an issue of Weed World that is dedicated to outdoor growing. They have an article about soil. Here's some stuff they say in it. It's helped me and it could help some other growers out there too.

*Improving Your Soil and Its Texture*
 So many growers overlook the need for a good texture within their soil. It's important for a variety of reasons - firstly it's the supporting frame for your plant's roots and secondly its texture is indicative of what is absorbed and what is allowed to freely drain.

_There is a wealth of soil improvers out there... and the one you choose will depend upon where you've chosen the plant._

Humus - is the partially decomposed matter that is full of micro-organisms, plus there are millions of bactera and other organisms in a single handful of earth, which break down leaves, dead roots and insects and transforms the organic matter into nutrients for your plants. Without humus, soil is essentially finely ground rock. It also promotes good air flow through the soil thus improving soil texture tremendously. It also makes light soils more moisure retentive and heavy soil more workable. The humus balance is largely unchallenged in uncultivated soil, but remembering that planting makes huge demands on the humus content and this does need maintaining. 

*Organic Soil Improvers*
Organic options include leaf mould, well-rotted farm manure, garden compost, peat, composted shredded bark and seaweed. All improve moisure retention and soil aeration and contain valuable nutrients and also stimulate the bacterial activity, which turns organic material into accessible food for your plants. Generally, matured organic matter is used since raw humus makers can damage plants: fresh manure emits ammonia and can burn plants; fresh leaves and straw increase bacterial activity, robbing the soil of nitrogen. Raw matter is best used before planting, or in areas well away from the plants and its root system.

_Compost and particularily the stuff one makes throughout the year from kitchens scraps, softwoods and grass clippings - is an immensely satisfying task when applying. You know what;s in the stuff, therefore, you know what is going into your plants..._

*Other/Inorganic Soil Improvers*
Soil additives such as grit, gravel and coarse sand are useful for improving the workability and drainage of heavy soils

Fine sand can aggravate drainage problems by blocking soil pores, so use a coarser aggregate.

Lime too is often used - say for heavy clay soils to help bind the tiny particles together to a workable crumb, it also contains nutrients and acts on humus

_Whatever soil improver you use_
_- whether produced by yourself or purchased from a retail outlet_
_- apply the product in carefully measured doses, according to instructions and remember_
_- don't just add - get a good reading of your PH levels first!_


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## MeNtAlPaTiEnT (May 11, 2009)

The area all around my grow spot, this is what it mostly looks like mind you I did some digging and took away a lot of grass that is covering the entire area.. Take a look and tell me if it's worth trying to ammend or if I should look around in some dryer areas deeper in the forest instead. I did find a nice mound in the forest that was kind of sandy but also had a dark topsoil texture to it with some moss growing on top. I really think I would be better off digging some holes there. Also been pondering bringing in 9-10 bags and growing a simple 9-10 clones in buckets instead of 20-30 clones. Saves a lot of hassle, sure lower harvest, but who knows, once I have 9 or 10 buckets filled with quality potting soil and some nice healthy clones going, I might decide to haul in some more... We'll see what happens.


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## ozzydiodude (May 11, 2009)

IMO Find some where else that area looks to me like it would drown plants and cause nothing but headaches.The deeper in the wood the less chance of someone finding your plants.If moss is growing dirrect sunlight is not reaching the grown and it is holding a lot of water.


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## MeNtAlPaTiEnT (May 11, 2009)

This is why I'm planning on growing in buckets. Way too much water in this area but it's a super secure area and has at least 7 to 8 hours of direct light a day. I'll probably haul in a bunch of bags of soil if anything.


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