# Burnt leaves



## robisontransport3500 (Mar 17, 2020)

First I would like to say thank you to all who wish to add to this I’m using general hydroponics flora bloom and flora micro along with cal mag from botanicare see pictures. I can’t tell if I over did the nutes or if I under did them, I used 2mg flora micro 2mg cal mag and 4 mg flora bloom per gallon of water, reduced ph to 6.3 when fed. When I fed these plants 2 days ago I had minor yellowing now I have major burnt tips. PLEASE HELP I have 2 plants that show no sign of damage at all but the other 4 are burning leaves, I also wonder if this may be due to root rot? I had to leave town for 4 days and I think my wife may have been overwatering. (Not placing blame just giving information) she said she watered them everyday, in my room I’m keeping right at %60 humidity and I have only been watering or feeding about every 2 to 3 days. Thank you. P.S. upon doing some research I may have made the mistake of nutes that had been mixed for several days, I’m hoping this is am the only problem?


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## Growdude (Mar 17, 2020)

edit


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## robisontransport3500 (Mar 17, 2020)

Edit what?


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## stinkyattic (Mar 18, 2020)

Root rot will show up as wilting. I don't see that, but yes be careful not to overwater.
What's your dirt? Temps? They look like they may be temperature stressed which in turn exacerbates water/food imbalances.
Pre mixing ferts is often (not always) ok BUT!!!! You gotta check and readjust pH immediately before use at the bare minimum. And youre already on the low end of the pH range for dirt. If that's a soilless mix then 6.3 is correct but you don't know if it dropped out of range when sitting, and if it's dirt, bump your goalposts up to 6.5-6.8. Personally in dirt I aim for 6.8 since the tendency of soil is to drift down over time. 
Last, be wary of overfeeding. 
I'd let them dry out a bit, then water them at pH 7 (unless it's soilless) with no ferts, and give them a light foliar mist of gh micro.
I also use bloom ferts myself for very young plants, but only for the first few feedings, then you can switch to grow. Those plants will be fine with watering/feeding/temperature balanced.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Mar 18, 2020)

If you premix your nutes, you should be bubbling them until you use them.

Also, why are you not using a grow formula?


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## robisontransport3500 (Mar 18, 2020)

They were definitely on the hot side as my light was only 10 inches above the plants (corrected) room temps are staying between 71 and 79 but the temps under the lights level with the plants were 87.2, I have raised the lights up another 10-12 inches and my temp dropped to 77.2 with room temps at 74.
The soil I am using is a “high nutrient” potting soil, I think better homes and garden brand from Walmart. 
I’ll be sure to bump up the ph of my feed and water I have been bouncing around between 5.5-6.5 which is the directions on the general hydroponics ph bottles, thank you for bringing that to my attention.
I’ll let them dry out another day I think and then do as you recommend I’ll post the results, thank you.
i am not sure what you mean by grow formula? Are you talking the marijuana specifically engineered stuff? If that is the question I’m not using it just because of practicality, I also have a very large garden and so I just try to keep all my products the same. Although I may try some product at some point.


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## stinkyattic (Mar 18, 2020)

Grow formula has much more nitrogen than bloom formula.
Prefertilized soil like Scott's or miracle-gro makes it hard to figure out what to feed and I'd soup it next time, and reduce your feeding until you up pot into a bigger pot with fresh plain soil. Fully organic soils (like, using composted biological matter and other natural stuff) are safer if you like really rich soil, because they release the food slower and more gently.
5.5-6.5 is the range for hydroponic applications. Dirt is higher. 
Yup the plants will thank you for a little cooler environment for sure! Male sure you've got plenty of fresh air too!


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## robisontransport3500 (Mar 18, 2020)

On the fresh air note, I am circulating the air with fans but I have been working toward a sealed room for CO2. I plan on putting a single 6 inch fan (440 CFM I believe) will that be adequate? My room is about 12x16 I do live in Utah so temps in the summer are high but it is a basement room with 6 feet of the room below ground, I’m hoping this will mediate temps or my ac bill is going to be ridiculous haha


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## stinkyattic (Mar 18, 2020)

If you can put in an 8" fan it will be even better and not limit how much biomass and watts you can stuff in there all at once. I run sealed and like it. There's a lot of control. And if you're pulling fresh air from a space that's not climate controlled,  as I am, it can actually become a necessity. But if you're pulling intake from within your cellar, which I imagine is quite stable year round, and is a HUGE positive. It makes things much easier!
12x16, ohhh you lucky duck that's some nice acreage to grow a bumper crop!


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## robisontransport3500 (Mar 18, 2020)

Haha I wish I’m limited to 6 plants but a seedling isn’t a plant until it’s 12 inches tall....... loophole ideas anyone. But I’m also starting a garden in the same room to fill up the space. Here are some pics (lots of work and work in progress.

for your setup you still have an intake and an exhaust right? Just not circulating unless you need to dump the room right?


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## The Hemp Goddess (Mar 19, 2020)

Plants need different nutrients during different phases of their growth.  During vegetative growth, plants need more nitrogen....which grow formulas have.  Flora Bloom really doesn't have enough N and has too much P to be a good vegging nutrient.  Flora Bloom and flora micro are meant to be used with Flora Grow as a 3 part nutrient.  Are you following nutrient plan from the manufacturer?

Your soil looks  bit dense...does it have anything in it for aeration. like perlite?


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## robisontransport3500 (Mar 19, 2020)

I’m supplementing the nitrogen with fish fertilizer 5-1-1 I’m basically trading the grow for the fish fertilizer (I’m following a YouTuber on this one) maybe to my detriment. Other than that my first two feedings were at %25 of the recommended “small house plant dose” the next 2 were at %50 and I just had my first full strength feeding last night after my soil finally went dry. On this note I’ve regularly been creeping up to %70-%85 humidity, I’ve been dumping the room every night and drying it out but what is too much humidity in veg really? 

I did not mix my soil with perlite this is something I will be correcting as soon as we reach bigger pots which I don’t think should be too much longer? They are in the quart size peat moss containers now and I’m just over 3 weeks since sprout. I kinda feel like they are really undersized compared to a lot of others I have seen at 21 days but they didn’t have proper lighting for the first week and a half either.

thank you for the thoughts.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Mar 19, 2020)

I'm not sure how well organic fertilizers (the fish fertilizer) is going to work with the chemical fertilizers.  In organic growing, microbe herds break down the organic compounds so the plant can use the nutrients.  Generally organic nutrients are not available to the plants in the form that they are in until broken down.  Chemical fertilizers kill these microbe herds.  I am still a relative novice at organic growing, but it is my understanding that you cannot mix organic and chemical nutrients successfully.  

What do you mean that you have "been dumping the room"?  You really need to have a ventilation system set up where you are continually exchanging the air in your space.  Your intake can be passive, but you need a centrifuge type exhaust fan that is on all the time the lights are on.  The plants need a continual supply of fresh air (CO2) for proper photosynthesis.  Just pushing air around the room without an exchange of air is detrimental to the plants.  An exhaust fan is critical.  I'd get some experience before I even thought of CO2 enhancement.  There is a lot to it and you need a lot more light to make it effective.

You should make your space smaller.  the size dictated by the amount of light you have.  Without a small space with reflective walls, your light is shining throughout the entire 12 x 16 space, wasting a lot of light.   And during flowering, you are going to need a smaller space that you can keep 100% dark during the dark period. 

I want to recommend that you get the 3 parts of the GH Flora 3 part nutrients and use them as directed.  Once you get some grows under your belt and have an idea of what the plants need, you may want to try and experiment with some different nutrient regimes.  You want to keep your pH around 6.5 to 6.8 for soil.


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## robisontransport3500 (Mar 20, 2020)

Hey stinky thanks for the help happy to report that they seem to have bounced back quite nicely, I like the color a lot better and even finally felt good enough about the 3 weaker ones to finally top them (they are on the same node that the first 3 were topped at so I hope it’s basically even) I let them dry out good, did the folier spray half strength micro when they finally dried all the way out last night I fed full strength bloom and grow, half strength micro half strength fish fertilizer and full strength cal mag, even already everyone is looking so much better I am amazed at how fast and strong the color came back.

Goddess, I know it is really easy to damage the soil biology with synthetics, that’s why I won’t touch the rest of my garden with the stuff haha but I’m not too concerned with the long term stability of the specific soil being used by the baby Mary’s (or even adult Mary’s) also with fish fertilizer 3.5% of the 5% of nitrogen is water soluble wouldn’t that mean that it is ready to go for the plant to uptake? (Asking am honest question not trying to play who knows more I’m here to learn) I agree that the ammonia nitrogen may not have the soil biology to be broken down completely but I don’t know for sure. As for the C02 I’m actually not wanting to build a 1500 ppm generator setup by any means, as you already pointed out I don’t have the light to make that effective my way of thinking is that if I can maintain 500-600 ppm (give or take twice what atmosphere is generally) then I would positively effect growth, without increasing costs significantly (my research shows about $300 for the equipment and with a sealed room I can’t imagine using more than $0.50 a day for the co2 with local prices) *bold underline italicization*  obviously that is from research and doing the best math I can with flow rates and the wide range on “statistics” of co2 consumption of various plant species. So it’s a wild ass shot in the dark guess is what I’m getting at.

As for the light, I already planned on needing to buy at least 1 more light before flower, that is a 1200w light so I’m hoping to be able to work these girls through veg with the one for now because funding is a problem ...... any sponsors out there want to hook a fella up? -there never are.

what I mean by dumping is my humidity is slowly climbing throughout the day (without a humidifier) up to as high as %88 now haha it’s raining naturally in my grow room, now I still have yet to actually solve the debate on exactly how much humidity is too much, but I figure when it starts raining inside ..... it’s to much. So I “dump” the room back to %55-65 humidity and 75-80 degrees.

I did buy the 3 pack together as I said my feed routine was stolen from a you-tuber maybe I will switch to just the 3 part and kinda simplify things for my first time out of the gate with marijuana, thank you.

here are the pics guys what do you think of the recovery? Also some updated pics of the progress to the room and some of my other crops


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## stinkyattic (Mar 20, 2020)

There ya go. But you're gonna want to tank your humidity.  That sort of swing is like code red probability of mold and once you get powdery mildew it's very difficult to get rid of.


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## robisontransport3500 (Mar 20, 2020)

Ya I have been worried about that, and I may have come to the realization that I either need ALOT fewer plants in the room or I’m not going to be able to run sealed as I’ll just be required due to humidity to be continuously bringing in fresh air. This is something I’m trying to figure out how to regulate a lot better and naturally (as I know the easy solution would be to have a humidifier that kicked on at say %55 and below and a dehumidifier that kicked on at %65 and above to control it. My only concern is that my house was built in the 50s and my entire basement is all on one 20 amp breaker so this room already effectively makes the rest of my finished basement (and second kitchen)   unusable because of electrical demand, so I don’t want to constantly be pulling that juice if I don’t need to. 

I think what I’m going to try is a different water cycle for all of the plants so that rather than watering all 70 +\- some plants at 4 oz (280 oz of liquid total) into the room in one day I’ll water one section everyday on a 3-5 day cycle and mitigate how much moisture I’m putting in the room at once. 

I never expected to have this problem in Utah where I woke up to it snowing this morning with 23% ambient humidity hahaha. Hell when it rained last week we saw the outside humidity skyrocket!!!!!! Right up to %37 lol 

as I said the humidifier has not been running ever since I sealed up the room the humidity is just coming off the soil, plants and pots. 

anyone else have any ideas on naturally regulating humidity down in a sealed room? I know I’m somewhat making this harder for myself as I’m trying a somewhat unconventional grow style, but that’s half the fun of learning something new. Thanks again for all the great ideas guys and spot on with your recognition of problems stinky and the solution, I’m very very grateful for the help in rebounding these plants.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Mar 20, 2020)

I'm thinking that this humidity thing is happening because you do not have an exhaust system set up?  It sounds like you are just pushing air around the space and that you do not have an exhaust fan.  It is critical that you replace the air in the space at least every couple of minutes.  You need to get your space smaller and a centrifuge type fan in there to recycle that air--out with the old and in with the new.


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## stinkyattic (Mar 21, 2020)

The Hemp Goddess said:


> I'm thinking that this humidity thing is happening because you do not have an exhaust system set up?  It sounds like you are just pushing air around the space and that you do not have an exhaust fan.  It is critical that you replace the air in the space at least every couple of minutes.  You need to get your space smaller and a centrifuge type fan in there to recycle that air--out with the old and in with the new.


This!!!! 
An exhaust fan doesn't draw as much amperage as a dehumidifier, if that's your main sticking point. 
 Changing your watering schedule won't really do anything. You get transpiration based on total surface area of all leaves in the room... your only options are a big bad dehumidifier plus a co2 system, or a big bad inline fan that runs 24 hours a day. 
The fan is the cheaper option and what the vast majority of successful personal-use growers use. Make sure you've got an adequate passive intake on the opposite corner of the room to allow full efficiency of the exhaust.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Mar 21, 2020)

In addition to what stinkyattic said, you NEED a continual supply of fresh air for proper photosynthesis.  Exhaust fans are not an optional part of a grow.  It is a mandatory part of a grow space and is almost as important as your lighting.


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## robisontransport3500 (Mar 21, 2020)

I understand the need for exhaust and as stated earlier i was planning on a 6 inch (thank you stinky I have now decided on an 8 inch option as per your recommendation) but it’s just not in the bank right now, so I figure my 4 major hurdles are are 1. Air quality, I have a negative ion generator air purifier which I really like in there, two, temperature control, I’m not having a problem with this currently other than originally having the light just too close creating a hotspot at the canopy (I expect to have more problems with heat management here shortly as we are transitioning into spring here) and I’m positive I will need an exhaust before the full summer heat is on. 3 humidity, this one I’m lost on as I have a lot of plants putting a lot of humidity in the air. I dumped the room completely last night got all the moisture out of it. (Down to %35 humidity) and sealed her up for the night. Awoke this morning and I was right at 63%. I am going to attempt to water fewer plants at one over the next week or two and see if I can help regulate it. I’ll report on if my new watering cycle does anything to help (as I can now see why it’s unlikely to make a large affect but I guess I will find out. please understand I’m not disputing the need for exhaust guys, I am just trying to squeak by without killing anything until the Old bank account can recover from funds deficiency. (Lol little ag humor pun intended)

trust me guys if money was not a concern things would be done different but so far I’m into this project about $325.00 so I’m just happy I have green right now haha,


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## stinkyattic (Mar 21, 2020)

That sounds so much better already! Another thing you might not think of, with a larger diameter fan/duct, it runs quieter and isn't working so hard, so you're going to be very happy with that setup! Small orifices require more pressure to move the same amount of air and whoa the roar of an overtaxed fan in a little flexi duct can be heard from upstairs . 
Happy growing in your nice breezy room!


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## robisontransport3500 (Mar 21, 2020)

Alright so now here is the next newb question of the day, with the size of room I have do you think an intake and exhaust “diffuser or manifold” I have heard it called both, is needed to evenly distributed the incoming/outgoing air. Another person raised the question with me if having just one pipe in and one pipe out wouldn’t create dead spots of sorts, or is that basically handled by the circulation fans?


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## stinkyattic (Mar 22, 2020)

Yup your wall /chair / whatever mounted fans give the turbulence you need to avoid dead pockets.


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## robisontransport3500 (Mar 23, 2020)

That’s what I figured just didn’t want to guess


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