# Newbie tent grow!!!!!



## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 5, 2014)

Hello fellow growers.  I decided to step up to the big leagues and attempt a grow that involves me finding a surprise seed and throwing it in some wet paper towels and putting the product of that in what ever premixed potting soil I could find and seeing what happens.  I also started a thread on the introduce yourself section but I wanted to get as many views as possible to so I can start to establish my self on this site.  Here is my setup

600 watt digital hps/mh with the ability to use 50, 75 and 100 percent of power w/ an air cooled tube
secret jardin 3x3x6 dr90 grow tent
2 6in inline fans
6in carbon filter
run of the mill oscillating fan
2 cheap 1.2 gallon vics humidifiers
1 cheap wireless thermometer hygrometer
1 cheap wired thermometer hygrometer
Using the same bulbs that came with the ballast(free is free and Im not gonna be picky at this point) 

Again this is my first attempt at indoor growing so Im pretty sure I got the basics of the grow rig I need....and the main pieces of the rig(the light, and tent) are not cheap....I am a firm believer in frugality but if you grow cheap you smoke cheap but there is always a time and place for being thrifty.

My medium is soil.  I got fox farms ocean forest and happy frog and doing a 50/50 mix.  I also have some of fox farms liquid solutions bio brew, sledgehammer, boomerang and grow big.  I also use or superthrive as well.

They are currently 3 weeks old from seed.  I had some over watering and a slight bit of nutrient burn and heat burn(trying to get the light as close to them as possible just took a few days of trial and error and thats how that happend.) So there 2nd week they got a bit stunted but now I think everything is fine and noticing more growth now then ever.  I also just feed them a solution of biobrew at 1tsp per gallon(it calls for 2, Im just being cautious) and .25 tsp of grow big.  I only used a little less then .5 gallon between the plants, didnt want to over water again.  Here are the pics tell me what you guys think. 

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## Hushpuppy (Apr 5, 2014)

Your setup sounds good, and your plants look good so far. The plant in the last pic looks like it is developing a little bit of micro-nute deficiency with some yellowing in the new growth but that may just be the light making it look that way. One good rule of thumb for getting the light at the right height is to place your hand over the plants, palm down and just touching the top of the plant. If the light on the back off your hand begins to get uncomfortably warm then the light is too close to the plants. Raise it up until it is no longer uncomfortable to the back of your hand. For a 600w that distance is typically 14"-18" from the tops of the plants.

At this point I would just be starting to feed them as the little round seed leaves are beginning to yellow. Feeding sooner than that runs the risk of burning the new fragile roots and subsequently stunting the plant's growth for a time while it repairs the roots. I also begin feeding at 1/4 strength of what the nutrient manufacturer calls for. Then as I see the plants responding positively I raise the nutrients a little each week Until I am up to full strength. However, with organic soil and feeding, I would think you would go a little lighter on the feeding and focus more on nutrient/microbe teas.

I will tell you one thing that others will repeat, its not usually wise to plant seeds that appear randomly in previous grows. The reason for this is random seeds are almost always the result of herming also known as "selfing" where the female plant generates male pollinators that then give you "femmed" seeds. This herming is a trait that you don't want to encourage as it will ruin a sensamilla crop where you want high quality smokable bud. You will end up with a fully seeded crop off bud that is reduced in potency due to seed development. You can grow it out if you want and you may get some good smoke but most likely it will produce a load of hermy nanners (male reproductive anthers) that will drop pollen and seed up your crop.

Best off luck with your grow. If you have any questions, don't be afraid to ask


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 5, 2014)

Thanks for the info.  I did this last year outside but didnt put all that much effort so the ones that just say cracked on them are from that batch and they all turned out to be females so Im pretty hopeful about them.  They were really good but last year we got hit with like a 10 day rain storm and made them really musty and got mold so I made BHO with it as I was not going to call it a complete waste and it made some great oil and yielded nice.......the ones that are labeled the white are from a hermmie so I am going to let them grow out until first signs of flowering then if they dont show any signs of hermie or male then I will keep them.  The Goji og seed came from a bag of really nice nugs and there were only 2 seeds from a 1/4 and only one germinated so Ive got my fingers crossed.  I was thinking of letting all of them veg in the tent and then taking a couple out and keeping them short and bushy out side until flowering is complete on others in tent just give more light per square foot.  I have my setup running between 70 and low 80s(only for 3 or 4 hours during the hottest part of day) and 35-40% humidity(just got the second vaporizer today and it bumped up to 50% not sure where its going to stabalize haven't had it long enough.)  I believe micro brew is a compost tea and I did start feeding them with half stregth.  Thanks for reading.


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## Rosebud (Apr 5, 2014)

Hi Farmer, and again welcome.
Fox farm is good soil. It is however already nuted. meaning it has food in it to last 5-6 weeks. Don't feed seedlings... too hot.

Green mojo to you and glad you are here.   Gonna be a great grow for you.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Apr 5, 2014)

Justanotherfarmer said:


> Thanks for the info. I did this last year outside but didnt put all that much effort so the ones that just say cracked on them are from that batch and they all turned out to be females so Im pretty hopeful about them. They were really good but last year we got hit with like a 10 day rain storm and made them really musty and got mold so I made BHO with it as I was not going to call it a complete waste and it made some great oil and yielded nice.......the ones that are labeled the white are from a hermmie so I am going to let them grow out until first signs of flowering then if they dont show any signs of hermie or male then I will keep them. The Goji og seed came from a bag of really nice nugs and there were only 2 seeds from a 1/4 and only one germinated so Ive got my fingers crossed. I was thinking of letting all of them veg in the tent and then taking a couple out and keeping them short and bushy out side until flowering is complete on others in tent just give more light per square foot. I have my setup running between 70 and low 80s(only for 3 or 4 hours during the hottest part of day) and 35-40% humidity(just got the second vaporizer today and it bumped up to 50% not sure where its going to stabalize haven't had it long enough.) I believe micro brew is a compost tea and I did start feeding them with half stregth. Thanks for reading.


 
 Plants are looking good, however I couldn't agree with Hushpuppy more on the hermies.  All females is not a good thing--having an entire crop turn out female pretty much assures us that those seeds were hermy stock.  The problem with hermies is that they do NOT show prior to putting into 12/12 nor near the beginning of flowering.  The nanners can develop deep in a bud and you never see them....you just end up with an entire crop of seeded plants.  IMO, it is foolish to keep a known hermy, but especially for a new grower, who is far more apt to stress a plant.  So rather than cross your fingers (it will almost certainly hermy if it came from a hermy), I am going to try and encourage you to get rid of the plants with the hermy genetics.  It only takes one to ruin an entire harvest.  And I can tell you that after you have had this happen to you once, it is real easy to throw those seeds in the trash (where they belong).

 I do not understand this:  _"I was thinking of letting all of them veg in the tent and then taking a couple out and keeping them short and bushy out side until flowering is complete on others in tent just give more light per square foot."_  Are you thinking that you can take some of the plants outdoors for 8-10 weeks and keep them short and bushy and then bring them back in and flower them?  I am kind of lost here.  Doing this will give each plant you have in the tent more light, but not more light per sq ft.  I can't tell how many plants you have started, but I would say that  you are probably only going to be able to do 3-4 smaller plants in a 3 x 3 tent.


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## pcduck (Apr 5, 2014)

Congrats on beginning your great adventure. 

Read as much as you can. There is some great info to be had here


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 5, 2014)

Alright I re read my last post and it was a little confusing, the part about taking plants out of the tent and keeping them outside so let me be a little more clear.  I have 10 plants going right now(3 little guys I just sprouted a few days ago that I haven't taken any pictures of yet).  I am pretty certain that I cant keep that many plants in a 3x3x6 tent.  I mean I can squeeze them all in there but I dont think there will be enough light coverage.  So I am thinking about letting them all get to 1.5 to 2 ft tall and keeping them short and bushy and once they all reach a uniform size put a few of the plants out side and flanking them with other plants to hide them.  If the plants that are outside are kept short and stalky and they are also hidden by others then it will be very difficult to spot them.  Doing that would result in more light coverage for the plants still in the tent and give me something to put right back in my tent when flowering is complete.  I hope that cleared any confusion about that part......

As far as them having hermie traits.....look this is my philosophy on this particular grow.  It is my first REAL attempt at growing indoors, I do not have the right nor should I expect to get top shelf grade A+ product.  At this point in my young grow carrier I need to be concerned with getting good quality equipment and soils and nutes and gaining knowledge.  I am more concerned with learning how to read the plant.  Now if I get good quality product at the end of the plants life cycle, then bonus but my main goal is to get knowledge.  I should also say that I am a huge fan of hash oil so anything that I produce, I will be running into oil.  So with that being said I really do appreciate the hermie info but as for now I got to go with what I got after this grow I will get clones as I will know how to care for them and not end up wasting my money on something Im probably going to kill with inexperience.  And if I get anywhere near the quality of the buds that the seeds came from, I will be very happy. 

Alright here is some pics that I took 2 or 3 days before the last pics I posted.  Im posting them so you can see how much progress they made after I realized I was over watering and probably over feeding them.  They look pretty sick, atleast some of them do, now they look great.... 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 6, 2014)

New pics that I just took........leaps and bounds of progress compared to last posted pics of how they looked when they were stressed from over watering and feeding.....
the new one in the red cup is only 3 days old and the other two in the foil lined cups are 2 days old..... 

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## Hushpuppy (Apr 6, 2014)

They are definitely looking better. It looks like they are taking off. Good luck with them. I think you will learn a lot from this grow, and what you learn this go around will definitely help you with the next one. Its hard to watch with experienced eyes, someone make a mistake that will cost them at the end of all their work. This is because we have made these mistakes and suffered the regrets. But the MJ grow learning curve can be long and less costly or relatively short and more costly. But if you don't get frustrated and give up, you will get around that curve and will have some really nice plants and smoke in your future  We are glad to help you get around that learning curve as quickly and easily as possible. Green grow Mojo for the kids


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## The Hemp Goddess (Apr 6, 2014)

Your plants are looking better.  I think overwatering is a common thing with everyone.  

IMO, good genetics are as important as your lighting or your ventilation.  If you do not start with something good, you are not going to end up with something good.  It takes 4 months to take a plant from seed to harvest.  What if at 3-1/2 months of that, the hermies pop nanners and you end up with an entirely seeded crop?  You can have 3/4 of the weight of a seeded bud be in seeds and when the plant is making seeds, the potency of the bud is affected.  As a person who has been growing for almost 35 years, I still am going to encourage you to throw away the hermy stock.  I cannot think of anything that would make me grow bagseed now when good genetics are so cheap.  You can get good genetics for $50 or so.  And if you learn to clone, you don't have to buy more seeds unless you want a different strain.

I think that you are going to find that you are not going to be able to take 10 plants to 1.5 to 2' tall in a 3 x 3 tent, especially if you are going to try and keep then short and bushy.  Overcrowded plants will stretch and compete for the light, resulting in tall lanky plants.  More plants does not mean more bud.  I would say 3-4 plants in a 3 x 3 tent.  You will also find that you are not going to be able to put part of the plants outdoors and keep them in veg indefinitely.  Let's say that it takes 6 weeks for them to reach the size you want.  That would have you putting the plants outdoors about the middle/end of May.  The summer solstice will be less than a month away.  After the solstice, you will not be able to keep the plants from flowering.  The shortening days tells the plant that it needs to flower.  So, it will start flowering.  Unlike indoors where we control what happens, outdoors, Mother nature dictates most of what happens.  Whether you can keep the plants short and bushy is also another question.  I anticipate that a 14 week veg outdoors will result in large plants.  Bushiness or lankiness is related to strain and it is hard to make a plant do something it is not genetically inclined to.  It is far harder to control things outdoors.  And then there is always the danger of bringing pests indoors.  

You should remove the foil that I believe that you are probably using to reflect light.  In truth, foil is a horrible reflector of light and it can tend to get too warm.  So, no upsides and a lot of downsides.  

You are starting out with great equipment, I just hate to see you using junk genetics.  If you were my kid and I was teaching you to grow, I would say to get rid of the hermies.  Stay with the tried and true until you get a few grows under your belt and learn how cannabis grows and what it needs.  The plants that you put outdoors, I would plan on leaving outdoors.  Learn to clone.  Read up a little more on the life cycle of cannabis.  

Green Mojo for your grow.


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## timothy785 (Apr 6, 2014)

Can any one tell me how my plant looks for 3 weeks ? View attachment uploadfromtaptalk1396822095149.jpg
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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 6, 2014)

Overall they look healthy just stretched out.   Lower you lights man.  Look at the pics in the beginning of the thread....those were planted cracked seeds on the 12th of last month....I have my light around 13in and its a 600w mh.  Other than stretched they look good.  I'm a newbie my self so I would follow the advice of more seasoned growers.....Also man you should start your own thread....I don't want my pics getting mixed up with yours. ...people will check it out that's what I did and I already got a lot of good info


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## timothy785 (Apr 7, 2014)

How do i start my own thread ive been trying to figure it out


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## timothy785 (Apr 7, 2014)

Also my cotyledon is cracked some what an is turning a kind of brown any ideas on the reason or resolution ? View attachment uploadfromtaptalk1396872049376.jpg


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 7, 2014)

Cotyledons don't really matter.....well they do when they first sprout as they kick of the first production of photosynthesis but after the plant starts producing it's first little serrated fingers I wanna call them the first true leaves but I'm not sure if a true leave means that it's generated the cartoon 5 finger pot leaf or if just the first finger is also considered a true leaf....the look fine....just lower light source to the point where if you put your hand palm down it should not be uncomfortable meaning if the back of your hand feels hot the plants will be too hot and don't over feed or water them.....that's a common mistake own that I myself made


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## Hushpuppy (Apr 7, 2014)

Timothy: If you go back to the page where is says general indoor growing and look at the top left corner above the ffirst thread, it says begin new thread. Just click on that and and it will allow you to start a thread that is yours. 

As Farmer said, You need more light on that seedling as it is a little stretched. Prefferably white 6500k spectrum light. Don't worry about the cotyledon being a little damaged, it is used for ffood ffor the growing seedling until it gets its root system developed. Don't feed it anything but water ffor the first couple weeks or you can burn the roots and stunt the growth or kill it.


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## timothy785 (Apr 7, 2014)

Thanks alot an sorry for intruding on your thread.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 7, 2014)

No worries man everything is all greens. .....


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 8, 2014)

Just posting some more pics of my babies......... 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 8, 2014)

Do they look like they are out of the seedling stage and now in veg stage?  It is my understanding that when the first 5 finger leaves appear and the classic marijuana leaf is formed for the first time it is a sure sign that you are in vegetative state


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## Hushpuppy (Apr 8, 2014)

In my opinion, they are just entering the veg stage now. At this point in my grow they would be getting about 1/4-1/2 strength nutes depending on the weeks from germ.


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## Rosebud (Apr 8, 2014)

Your plants look just beautiful. You are doing a great job. Yes, you are vegging now... Lovely, way to go!

Oh and THG, i have it on good authority he is using great genetics...just a little pollen spill, not hermies.  

Greenest of mojo.


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## P Jammers (Apr 8, 2014)

Technically 24 hr lighting is considered the veg state, but I am betting you'll get a lot of different responces as to when a seedling becomes a plant.

Some say plants won't eat for three weeks while others start feeding at day 3 from seed pop.

I have read when a plant puts on it's first set of true leaves it becomes a plant.

Curious why you ask?


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 8, 2014)

THanks rose....they do look beautiful if I do say so my self.....damn well I didn't even know the lineage of my seeds.......I thought they were hermies and not the result of a pollen spill....thank god(I think,as I dont know the problems associated with growing a hermie).  PJammers....I was asking because I am trying to absorb as much knowledge as I can.  Hell I didnt even know the seedling life cycle was any longer then them sprouting out of the dirt.  I thought once you saw green and leaves of any kind you were vegging.
New update on plants:
Just received a 600 watt digilux MH bulb that I ordered on the 5th(saturday) and got it today(tuesday) the fastest I have ever recieved anything from amazon.  I also looked at the drainage holes and saw roots so I potted them all in a bigger pot.  Pots are the same sized diameter but they are twice as tall so my girls can have some more room to stretch out.
Im still a bit confused.  I have like 10 plants and I know I cant keep them all in a little 3x3x6 tent.  I want to throw like 5 or 6 of them out side and hide them and then when the 4 plants still in the tent get done flowering, put the others that I moved out side back in and keep them going at what ever stage they were in outside....like if its june or july they should still be in vegging maybe showing signs of early flowering so why couldnt I just mimic the light schedule outside, inside in my tent and then move them back in.


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## P Jammers (Apr 8, 2014)

No need to really have a plan yet. Once you are all sexed then maybe you won't need to put anything outside.

The huge downside to bringing plants from outside in is the introduction of bugs.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 8, 2014)

Quick update pics and digilux is the ****.............. 

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## Hushpuppy (Apr 9, 2014)

I love the Digilux bulbs. They are a bit expensive but I think they are worth it.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 9, 2014)

Alright I would like to start this off by saying digilux is awsome a bit too awsome.   I had the original light that came with the ballast and hood and just swapped the bulb out and that's it....came back 3 or 4 hours later and things was H O T....couple leaves were looking a bit crispy.  I had the light at 13in from plants and thought it wouldn't matter.....well after looking at the specs of the bulb that I replaced only had  55000 lumens.....digilux 75000.......well its now 22 in away from the lights and no more heat issue....ah you live and you learn......one plant has really light green spots on it and it is the one closest to the light....is it possible to light bleach or heat bleach a leaf or a combo of both.....no other leafs show signs of distress so that is the only thing it can think of.....oh yeah and after that 3 or 3 hours of hot as hell period I immediately removed them from tent and put in sink and gave them a good drink of dear park......I just got one of those big office water cooler bottles and decided to let dear park deal with ph and pollutants for me and made a compost tea with bio brew 2 tsp per gallon


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 10, 2014)

Did some cleaning up in the tent.  Swept up all the lose soil that fell out of the pots and and windexed the floor of the tent.  I also took the fan and hung it from the tent rafters and reinforced the rafters where they all intersect with two 75 lbs zip ties, just tied everything together to make it more rigid and hopefully hold a bit more, its getting a bit crowed at the top and I just wanted to be safe.  The reason I moved it was to gain a few more square inches on the tent floor.  Also just gave them a healthy soak with some super thrive and dear park, hopefully I can go more than a day without watering this time, I think Im being to conservative with the water.   Here are some pics.......... 

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## Hushpuppy (Apr 10, 2014)

Oh yeah those Digilux bulbs are HOT. They pump out the lumens for sure, and they have a better spectrum mixture than average bulbs. I always keep mine at 18" from canopy for that very reason. Yes you can "light bleach" leaves with too intense light, and it is not all that unusual for that to happen so don't feel too bad. You did the right thing when you discovered the problem. The only thing you have to be careful about is getting water droplets on the leaves while the lights are on. I see in several pics that some leaves have the droplets on them. These droplets will act like tiny magnifying lenses and will allow the light to burn spots on the leaves. They look good, vegging nicely.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 10, 2014)

Just posting some pictures of the changes I made to my setup.  Just clarifying the only changes I made are, reinforcing all of the points where the support rods intersect to make everything more rigid and hold more weight.  I also moved the fan from the tent floor and hung it from one of the support rods.  I also cleaned everything up and cut the excess ducting that I had left over from moving the fan.  I did that to get more square inches on the tent floor and I figured if heat rises I should put the fan that is pulling in cool fresh air where the heat is to achieve more cooling results.  I also cut a hole in my ceiling and ran the hot stinky air from my filter through in to the attic. Only reason I am going picture happy is for the benefit of other newbies that are growing for the first time aswell so they can see what Im doing and not make the same mistakes that I made.  If its excessive just let me know.  Thanks for all the great advice and for taking the time to read, Im learning a lot from you guys. 

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## robertr (Apr 10, 2014)

Never to many pictures.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 12, 2014)

Got a question for the OGs of the growing world.....As I understand it males don't produce more than 5 fingered leaves.  Females produce at least 7 or more.  If all my plants are growing 7 and 9 fingered leafs then isn't that a sign that they are female.....or is that just some more bull that someone laid on me


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## Rosebud (Apr 12, 2014)

You can not judge sex by the leaves.  That would indeed be more bull. The males show little balls kinda football shaped and the females have two hairs coming out of their preflowers. Preflowers happen at 6-8 weeks if your lucky.  You will see alternating leaf nodes first then preflowers.  There are some good pic's here... I will look for you.

I am glad you found us...your friends are not the best source of info...lol...


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 12, 2014)

No they aren't. ...but then again out of all my friends I'm the only one doing this.   So I kind of blow off everything they say. ...just thought there might be something to this one. ....


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## Rosebud (Apr 12, 2014)

JAF, it is funny how so many folks that have never grown think this is so easy, it is just a weed after all.  I was a gardener for many years and growing pot is a whole different thing.  I think i will start a thread about bogus advice.... I know they mean well, it is kinda fun. Pretty soon you will be helping new people with growing.... It is ll good.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 12, 2014)

That would be a good thread.   My family owned and operated a garden center for decades till homedepot and stores like them crushed us.....and I completely agree growing pot is a completely new and much much harder thing.....I changed the pre filter by my self last night and didn't want to disassemble anything so it took me like 45 min and I was sweating by the end of it.....


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## Rosebud (Apr 12, 2014)

I know there are so many details and terms to get to know. I remember starting here having no idea what nutes were or sativas or indicas or lst, ppm's(still don't know ppms.)

Pre filters are big.... good for you!  You will do fine, i just know it.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 12, 2014)

Parts per million......I get irritated with that cap thats why me and dear park are friends and I only use premixed nutes so I don't have to figure that out


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 12, 2014)

I avoid everything I can that has to do with God Damn math


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 12, 2014)

alright posting some update pics....let me know what you guys think 

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## Rosebud (Apr 12, 2014)

I won't clutter up your thread further, but wanted to say, those are beautiful. Very amazing for a first grow. Just wonderful.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 12, 2014)

Thanks don't worry about clutter. ..only thing I'm concerned with is other posting pics of there plants and that just so they don't get confused with mine.....I know this probably a hard question to answer but how far away from flower am I.....A month...2 months....That's where I'm lost as to when they are mature enough to flower what signs to look for to begin flowering. ...all that good info


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## robertr (Apr 12, 2014)

They look real good Farmer, nice and healthy.


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## Rosebud (Apr 12, 2014)

Most of my strains take 6-8 weeks from seed to show pre flowers. That is when they go into flower. A lot of people stick them in 12/12  hours for a few days and that will make them have preflowers and tell us what sex they are. Then they get rid of the boys and flower the girls.  If i had to guess I would say a month. You will have lots of help along the way...


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 12, 2014)

Is that with out a light cycle change....


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 12, 2014)

Also been looking at seed banks and they have auto flower strains. .....what does auto flower mean......


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## robertr (Apr 12, 2014)

Photoperiod plants need dark period to flower, that would be you changing the lights to 12/12 or by nature in the late summer ,fall. Auto flower plants do not need a dark period to flower, they flower automatically at around 3 weeks, finished around 2 months, I think mine took longer. They will flower under 24 hours light.


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## robertr (Apr 12, 2014)

I don't grow auto's any more.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 13, 2014)

Just a quick question.....how often should I be raising my hood?  I dont raise it that often.....by the looks of my babies should are the too compact should I add more distance from the hood to the canopy to get them to stretch some to allow for more growth?  Just curious.   Im sure everything is subjective based on there own growing experience


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## Hushpuppy (Apr 13, 2014)

You only want to raise your hood when the plants get within the "uncomfortable heat zone" where the light is too intense from being too close. You don't want your plants to stretch under normal circumstances because they will stretch for 2 weeks when they switch to flowering. This is normal but varies depending on the strain of plants. Some strains will more than double in height during the stretch period, while others will only stretch a little.

Your biggest plants appear to be about 3weeks old from seed, they have another 2-4 weeks of vegging before they reach sexual maturity. The first signs off maturity are the branches growing in an alternating pattern rather than directly across from each other. With some strains the preflowers will begin to show shortly thereafter while others the preflowers will not show unless the plants are placed in darkness to initiate flowering.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 13, 2014)

I have a concern..........

It was hot as hell today and I tried to keep my light on at 50 percent power and that still didn't cool things down enough.  It was over 85 in my tent when I checked on them around 1 and said screw it and turned the light off which only got the temp down to 79ish.....Ive had the light off till now(830) as now it is starting to finally cool off outside.  Just wondering what effect the light being turned off had on them.....I try to keep the light on 24/7 but when it gets over  75 outside that becomes very difficult.  I dont have any real experience to base anything off of.....so here is my question.....if i keep my light on 24/7 and only turn it off when it gets real hot outside like today does that random light off period hurt them?  I cant imagine it hurting them more than baking in a hot tent.  But I am a newbie when it comes to this stuff.....I just use my common sense but Ive been told that my common sense needs common sense.


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## P Jammers (Apr 13, 2014)

Run you lights 18/6 and have them off for that 6 during the hottest part of your day. 

If you still have an issue, something will need to be done.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 13, 2014)

I'm gonna probably end up doing that...I just looked at the weather for the week and thankfully it won't be past 75...mostly in the mid 60s so I hope that today was just a fluke with the temp.....I need to survive till mid June when I can free up some cash and get a portable ac unit. ....I'm more irritated with myself for not being prepared enough for this..


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 14, 2014)

Just posting some pics....a little worried the new growth looks lime green/neon green....havent been feeding any grow big in weeks and only been using biobrew and root zone stimulator...both very light check them out on ffarms website......I used sledgehammer today because it called for it and I figured a good flushing would help if I am over feeding...here are pics let me know if I am have cause to be concerned or if I am just stressing for no reason 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 14, 2014)

I was also reading that it could be a calcium def....  I use dear park and I'm sure they filter all that stuff out through reverse osmosis and that's a common problem with growers who use that water...that's what I read at least so maybe in a day or two when they dry out from there most recent water I use regular tap water instead....Most tap water had calcium so that would help right


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## P Jammers (Apr 14, 2014)

They look perfectly fine and lime green new growth is normal. 

Just sit back and watch them grow and try not to do too much.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Apr 14, 2014)

If it is getting that hot just heading into summer with temps, you are going to have problems when we really get into summer.  I can't remember exactly how you have your ventilation system set up, but if it is not working, I think that needs to be looked at.  Not being able to keep your space cool when temps get over 75 could be a real issue.

I don't really see any signs of overfeeding.  They are looking real nice.


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## MR1 (Apr 14, 2014)

Nice plants Farmer.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 14, 2014)

I think my problem is I live in a house that was built in the late 70s.......not very good insulation and I'm growing on the second story instead of a nice cool basement....it's the only room available to me......In June I will be able to buy a portable ac unit but until then I need to.....only other thing I can think of would be to add an additional exhaust fan and have two exhaust fans hooked up


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 14, 2014)

Alright here is my vent setup....430 cfm exhaust fan which is connected to my light and filter to pull out stinky hot air and put it in my attic....A 440 cfm fan as an intake fan pulling fresh air from out side or I've got enough ducting to have it pull cool air from the vent in the room when the ac is on


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 14, 2014)

I think young is can see my vent setup in the pics I've posted if not I can take pics of just the vent stuff.....just let me know


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 14, 2014)

Wow I just read that.....no more posting from my phone.....damn predictive text screws me up


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## Surfer Joe (Apr 14, 2014)

Justanotherfarmer said:


> Wow I just read that.....no more posting from my phone.....damn predictive text screws me up



Lol...Every time I try to type sativa, the damn spell checker wants to change it to saliva.
It's led to some incoherent and weird posts.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 14, 2014)

alright now that Im in front of an actual keyboard.........lets try this again........
I believe you can see my ventilation setup in the pictures but let me try and explain it in detail..........

On top of my tent I have a 430 cfm exhaust fan with ducting runing from the exhaust side of the fan into my attic and on the intake side I have ducting running from the fan through the tent to my light and then from the my light I have ducting connected to a 6x20 filter with a prefilter.  That pulls pulls air from my grow tent through the filter through the light then out through the fan into the attic.  I also have a 440 cfm fan IN my grow tent attached to the support rods on top pulling air via ducting into the tent.  I have like 15 to 20 ft of additional ducting that is also connected to that fan so I can move it around and pull cool fresh air from the window in that room or the register in that room when we use the ac.  Meaning that the ducting coming out of the one of the socks of the tent that's connected to the fan attached to the upper support rods inside the tent(just trying to be descriptive).  Both fans are about the same power so I dont know if it would help any to switch the fans.  Putting the stronger of the two(by a whole 10 cfm) as the exhaust that pulls air out of the tent and the weaker fan as the intake fan thats pushing air into the tent.  Hell maybe that 10 cfm is alot, I dont know......


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 14, 2014)

Oh and today with the light at 50% power and it being in the mid to upper 70s Ive maintained at 81.......im guessing this is gonna be the norm till probably mid june early july before it starts to get any warmer that it has been.....especially with the winter we had this year....I think its gonna be a hot summer but its gonna kick of later and stay hotter later into the year...


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 14, 2014)

Alright just to make sure Im not doing anything wrong....want to post how Im watering and feeding them.....
Once a week im doing ffarms bio-brew which the guy at the hydroshop said it was a concentrated compost tea that all you need to do is mix it with a gallon of water and your ready to go.....its npk is 1.0 - 0.3 - 0.2.  I have used kangaroots 0.8 - 0.1 - 0.03 also and plan on using that everything 2 weeks.  I use the weight of the pot to determine there water requirements and its been like every other day they need to be watered if itsn't that hot then maybe every 2 days but for the most part its been every other day.  Again with the heat issue I had yesterday I gave them a huge drink of water and flushed them with sledge hammer.  They look a bit over watered but I expected that today and thought it would be ok because I knew today would be kind of hot too.....Should I stop using the bio brew and kangaroots....I figured since they were so low in NPK that it wouldnt hurt them....but I could be wrong....I know everyone says ffarms ocean forest and happy frog are really good soils and have what they need but I want to help them out even more if I can.....also been reading ocean forest is a little hot(which is also why I mixed 50/50 happy frog and ocean forest) so if you guys think my helping is actually hurting them let me know.......


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## Killertea08 (Apr 15, 2014)

I think that the ocean forest soil has a lot of nutes already in it. When I use ocean forest I only give water for the first month.  Your right about the NPK being low on the other two nutes you have, I say why not add it.  Just pay attention to your plants, you will get the eye when things go astray.  Make sure you get that temperature dialed now, so your plants don't suffer in the summer.  Make sure your electrical connections are on there appropriate circuit or you will pop a breaker when you bring in the a/c.  I had to add a circuit to a grow one time, thankfully it was a 220 that was not being used.  I was popping the breaker every time the a/c would kick on.  Get creative with your ducting, and pull cooler air from another room.  Good luck be safe.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 15, 2014)

I just ordered another exhaust fan.  This time its a 240 cfm inline booster fan, planing on tying that directly in to the exhaust portion of my vent setup so there will be a total of 670cfm of sucking power that should definitely be enough air going through my filter and air cooled hood to take care of any heat issues......for now I looked on youtube and everyone has there intake of fresh cool air coming in at the bottom so I ran some ducting from my intake fan attached to the ceiling down to the bottom of the tent....maybe that will do some good.....


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 15, 2014)

Just posting some pics.  The flush helped them out in my opinion.  Not seeing so much neon green as lime green now.  They are all right around 5-6 inches.  If I want to be done flowering by july and I want them to be max 3.5 to 4 feet am I on track to reach that goal?  I know its an opinionated question but Id rather take your best guess than mine.  They are just over a month old from seed and hush said that they will be sexually mature in about 3 weeks.  So they should be about a foot tall in another 3 weeks if they continue to grow at there current rate.  Which would make them around 3 ft when done....which would make harvest date around mid july ish.....is that a reasonable assumption(I know the saying, never assume for you make an A S S out of U and M E) but I want to keep an eye to the future so nothing sneaks up on me.  Oh well your thoughts would be appreciated MPverse.......here are the pics they look amazing to me if I dont say so my self, giving my self a pat on the back....... 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 15, 2014)

I went to bed with all the windows open in my home and it was the mid 60s I woke up and the house was in the 40s and the tent temp was like 63(only for like 3-5 hours).  A couple of the plants the leaves are lying down like they have created a blanket to protect the main stalk.  My hypothesis is that because of the temps recently being high that this was kind of a shock to them.  For all intensive purposes they got cold and tried to protect them selfs the best they could by forming there leaves in way that would hold some heat in and stop as much wind penetrating to the main stalk as possible.  Is this correct or am I missing something and there is a more pressing issue then a little temp shock.......


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 15, 2014)

These two were the ones closest to where the cold air was coming into the tent and are the only ones showing these signs.....also I watered everything the pots they were in felt light 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 16, 2014)

Need one of you OGs out there to do some leaf diagnosing.......leafs have red spots on a few of them....been a little bit but I wanted to see if it would work it self out over a watering or two and it hasn't....also noticed since yesterdays cold spell that a plant has developed a white spot on the tip of some of the new growth 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 16, 2014)

also I have got some purpleish redish stems on some plants some are more so then others I only know what two of the plants are goji og and the white dont know what the other ones are....so dont know if reddish purpleish stems are normal or a sign of something else


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## Hushpuppy (Apr 16, 2014)

I suspect that the soil may be just a little acidic. If you have some lime, sprinkle a healthy tsp of lime onto the top of the soil of each plant and use a ffork to gently work into the soil before your next watering. This will buffer your pH to acceptable level. I think that will solve the "wilted-looking" leaves, and possibly the purple-ish stems. The purple looking stems are sometimes a natural part of certain strains and sometimes it means there is an issue. I had a friend with that same issue and he was running almost identical setup as you, and the lime solved his issues.

I don't think the 60ish degree temps caused your issues as the plants can handle colder temps without damage. It has been my experience that as long as the temps don't consistently stay under 60f then they will not have any problems.

Your time schedule and figuring sounds alright to me. The plants are looking healthy. I would top them at this point to bring about a more bushy plant. All you have to do is go to the very top and pinch out the top-most growth bulb with either "clean" fingernails or clean fiskers.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 16, 2014)

alright Im going to do that but that also kind of scares the hell out of me....I know you can really screw things up messing with the ph of anything.  You have more expierance than I so I am going to trust that your eyes are better than mine and your knowledge is more vast that mine......just gonna sprinkle a tsp of lime and work it in with a fork like hush advised me to do.....so thanks for taking the time to respond and check up on me.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 16, 2014)

Did some looking around on the net for topping pics and guides so I can get visual and there were several different ways of topping....one took like a 3rd of a plant and then cloned what he cut off, Im not doing that and Im not cutting a 3rd of my plant either....some did that and others cut just a small portion of the upper most growth....also ran into some FIMing guides....I tried to fim some and I just topped others.....just wanted to experiment......here are some pics....hope I did everything ok....and if its not hope I didnt screw it up so bad that you guys cant help me fix it.....Im sure Im just being a newbie and to a newbie cutting anything of your plant that you have put so much effort in can be a bit nerve racking..........THanks hush for your opinions and telling me to top.....Id like to get as much as possible on final harvest and been reading a single kola plant wont produce nearly as much as a topped one or fimmed on and as your are about to see Im taking your advice and acting upon it..... 

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## lyfespan (Apr 17, 2014)

looking good


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 17, 2014)

I did some maintenance today(took the glass protector from light off and windexed the hell out of it, took everything out and swept up the loose soil, windexed the floor and walls, refill the humidifiers and spot watered[not watering fully until I get some lime to mix in the soil, then I will give a good drenching]) and I also did some rearranging.  Trying to look to the future when I know space at the middle and top of the tent are going to be at a premium.  I put the filter all the way on one side instead of it being along the back and got a bit creative with my ducting.....so far so good holding steady around 75 when I am monitoring the fans....when I go to sleep or leave for a bit some times it gets to 80 but thats because Im trying to keep my tent under vacuum so ive got the exhaust fan going full and still playing around with intake fan I know unless I get a digital climate controller Im always going to have to monitor it my self and keep adjusting on the fly.  Also centered the light better and spread all the girls(hopefully) out so they have some room to grow and not bunched up trying to get the most light and put some cases under some of the smaller plants to raise them up.  Why am I typing all this when I could just show you......Please critique my vent setup anyway you can, the more input the better off I am going in to summer.  Keep in mind that I am expecting a 240ish(cant remember exact number)cfm inline fan that I am going to attach directly to the filter(so I can run more cooler air with my intake during the hotter months) and a clip on 6in oscillating fan(took the other fan out because it was too large and took up too much space).  Also have a question about tent pressure......Should my tent always be under vacuum with the walls always being pulled in or does it matter if I blast a bunch of air into my tent and have it the walls ballooned out?  I imagine everything need to be under a vacuum so oder doesnt escape, feel kind of stupid asking this but, "the only stupid question, is a............" ok here are the pics.....
I am posting them in order and starting with the intake and ending with the exhaust
As always MP,
Thank you for taking the time to read and your input is greatly recieved and acted on.
JANF 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 17, 2014)

Also since I could be flowering with in the next few weeks I would like to know how important the fox farms trio of soluble nutrients?  Im not not talking about the big bloom, grow big and tiger bloom.  Im talking about the beastie blooms, open sesame and cha ching.  If they are important I need time to procure said nutrients so what are your thoughts on them?  Is it a waste of money......do I not need them.....is it only for really advanced growers.......am I going to get spectacular buds(for a first timer) either way if I only go big bloom and tiger bloom.......


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 17, 2014)

I just read on another forum that if you have a 440 cfm filter and you have a 430 cfm pulling air out of your tent it would be bad for your filter to add any other fans to boost the cfm.....is this true?  I just thought it wouldnt matter since all your doing is pulling air through carbon......but my common sense needs common sense sometimes so if I am about to do something bad to my setup please tell me......I just want to add more cfm to the exhaust system so that more heat will be pulled out....and I thought it would be kind of plug and play.....since this is my first real grow I am just reading as much as I can and flying by the seat of my pants.......


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## Hushpuppy (Apr 17, 2014)

As far as topping versus fimming: I prefer fimming in most conditions as it gives better bushing affect. But for new plants from seed I like to top them early on then fimm them later(just my way of doing things). The great thing about doing fimm is that you almost can't screw it up. Iff you take too much then it is just a topping. If you don't take enough then when it grows out you just do it again or top it. What you did looks like it will do fine either way.

I personally would put my exhaust fan outside the tent as it get quite warm, and takes up space. You answered your own question about having vacuum within the tent. Positive pressure within the tent will force air out through places where the filter can't do its job of removing odor. It doesn't matter a lot where you place the exhaust fan as long as it is pulling air from the tent rather than trying to push it. I had my fans nearly 10' away from my tents and had them pulling air through the filter and 2 lights, then 10' of flex hose before reaching the fan. I had no problems with them not being able to cool the tents.

It is not good to over-pull the filter as it is rated for the amount of air volume that it can handle effectively. Over-pulling it won't necessarily damage it but it causes it to be ineffective at scrubbing odor and can cause it to clog quicker. Iff you need to add more cfm of air movement to your tent then you should either get another filter that is bigger or add a second filter and fan. I suspect that having the fan pushing air in is causing the issue though. Don't push air into the tent. you can use it to pull fresh air into the room where the tent is but then allow the exhaust fan to pull the outer air into the tent as it is pulling the heated air out of the tent.

Unfortunately I have no experience with the FF nutrients, But the addition off lime to the soil will not hurt you on the pH so don't worry about that messing up anything. People with gardens do it all the time to "sweeten" the soil. What it is doing is bringing the pH into a better position that is between 6.0 and 7.0.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 17, 2014)

**** ME IN THE ***........I clicked on the wrong pic oh well nothing I Can do about it now......if you know how to delete a photo that has been posted let me know.....either way....I hope the admins and moderators see this and help me out.  I contacted them and reported the post so I hope they act soon.  Here is the pic I wanted to post 

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## Locked (Apr 17, 2014)

It looks like Rose took care of it for you brosef...


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 17, 2014)

Ok MAD PROPS TO ROSEBUD FOR DELETING A PIC I DIDNT WANT POSTED.  THANK YOU ROSEBUD FOR BEING JOHNNY ON THE SPOT.  Seriously bad pic was only on for like 10 mins.  Much respect....didnt need that pic on the net, especially this site.  THANK YOU ROSEBUD!

Alright that is a diagram of my vent setup maybe I wasnt clear in my description and the photos of the system it self not clear enough.....I find that a good diagram will answer alot of questions.  Hope that makes more sense hush.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 17, 2014)

I am currently in the process of spreading .5 tsp of lime in all my girls and working it in with a fork very gently as hush suggested Im also feeding them there first real dose of big bloom(6-4-4).  It says regular feeding 2-3 tsp per gallon once a week and heavy feeding 4 tsp once a week.  I mixed up two gallons and put 2.25 tsp in it.  So that should be right around half strength.  Hope this fixes the wilting issues and some spotting on the leaves and if this doesnt fix the purple stems I will repeat next week with another .5 tsp of lime per plant.......If that doesnt fix the purple stem issues Im gonna try some fertilzer that has some calcium and magnesium in it......read that could also be an issue


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 18, 2014)

Little update...
In just six hours of adding .5 tsp of lime and a half strength dose of grow big almost half of my plants are already looking better.  The leaves are no where near as droopy in fact some of them took normal again.  I just topped/fimed a day or so ago they still need time to adjust but the leaves perked right up......Ya know what hush puppy.......WORD TO YOU.  I'm adding to your rep that **** was on point with the lime advice.


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## Rosebud (Apr 18, 2014)

We are very fortunate to have Hushpuppy here.. Thanks Hush.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Apr 18, 2014)

First of all, it will really improve the performance of your fan if you get rid of all the dips you have in your ducting.  When it has to do whoop-de-doos it looses power quite fast.  You can get semi rigid ducting for pretty reasonable that works well and can be run without dips--that cheap flimsy ducting really is counterproductive.  You can probably do without the intake fan also.  You do not want your intake more than the exhaust.  Most of us do not use an intake fan at all.  

I would get rid of the duct booster fan.  When you add a booster fan, you are not increasing the cfm--you do not add the cfm of the 2 fans together and get a bigger cfm.  In fact if the booster fan is close to your exhaust fan it can actually slow the flow of air being detrimental rather than helpful.

Soil plants do not react that fast to changes--i.e. something you did 5 hours ago is not going to be seen for probably several days.  I know that it is hard, but I think you need to take a deep breath and slow down some.  There is such a thing as loving your plants to death.  Decide on a nute regime and then go with that.  I wouldn't be trying this and that and some other thing the hydro store guy was trying to sell, especially since you are a new grower.  Decide if you want to stay organic or use chemical nutes.  The FF ones you mentioned are all chemical except Big Bloom.

Your plants are looking good.  I would recommend that you kind of just leave them alone--let the lime do its thing.  Don't flush unless you have some kind of toxic buildup.  If you are running organic soil, you can't really flush anyway.  Pick a nute line you like and follow their directions.  Give the things you do time to take effect before trying something else.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 18, 2014)

Thanks hemp.  I agree....it is bad to love something TOO much.  You hit the nail right on the head with that one.  I know Ive moved right on out of the love and right up into obsession.  Its hard for me to not go look at them every hour...literally.  I have picked a nut. line(fox farms) and I have started to write everything down that I do to them in a basic calender, just mark what I fed them or added to them and how much and when I watered......Im gonna keep my intake fan as is for now......Im gonna try and test not having it on for a few days to see if I dont have much of a temp issue.....anyway thanks hemp....and I'll try to pop a prozac and stabilize my obsession......


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## The Hemp Goddess (Apr 18, 2014)

We have all gone through that, so we understand.  I do know how hard it is not to be fussing over them all the time.  I had a friend that ran the FF 3 part with the Open Sesame, the Cha Ching and the other one and he really liked it.  Take everything that the grow store salespeople say with a grain of salt.  Their job is to sell stuff, so don't be sucked in to trying every new additive or greatest new thing.  I have tried a whole bunch of them and aren't too impressed with them.  I personally like the General Hydroponics Flora series--3 parts in different ratios for vegging and flowering.

If you keep the intake fan, just make sure that you still have negative pressure in your tent or you might as well forget the fan.  If you do not maintain negative pressure, the incoming air will push the smell through every little crook and cranny.  And if you have an intake fan more powerful than your exhaust fan, that is what will happen.  You lose more cfms when you connect a carbon filter to the fan.  Seriously, try to take care of the sags in the ducting--that cuts your air flow a whole whole lot..


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 19, 2014)

Little update.....on two of my plants I'm seeing what I think are preflowers.  At least last year when I just threw some bag seeds in some pots and put them out side that's what they looked like when they started to flower(just looked at pics from those and they look like crap compared to this year, as I didn't put any effort other than watering and some regular fish emulsion) They are very small white like 1cm or 2cm hairs.......if they are the preflowers as I suspect I am being rewarded for all my efforts......cant wait to see what I got so I can thin the heard....also just said to hell with it with the 3 little guys that I had going.....I have 7 strong, vibrant and healthy plants in a completely different stage in there life cycle and they wont be ready to go by the time the others are so screw em......

Also I have had my intake fan which is 440 cfm at around 5 percent which equates to 22cfm per minute I have a 3x3x6 room so that should be plenty.   Every 3 min its pumping enough air to fill the room and Im still able to maintain negative pressure.  Thinking about pumping it up to 10 percent and seeing if I can still maintain negative pressure, the more fresh air the better, I think.

The only one of my plants that is still wilting I just transplanted it into a larger pot(I had not done that before it was still in a small 6in pot I didn't get enough pots when I went to the store so I let it slip till now...) That was the only difference in care so I hope that makes it happy since it now has more room for its roots to grow.  I know hemp told me to leave things alone but alot of the roots were poking out the bottom so I figured I was stunting it by leaving it in a smaller pot while the others got larger ones.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Apr 19, 2014)

I'm not sure you are understanding the ventilation thing.  If you have passive intakes and an exhaust fan that is pulling 430 cfm, you are getting 430 cfm (less air loss from duct bends, filter, etc) of fresh air going through your tent.  When you put a fan at the intake that is pushing that much less air than the exhaust is pulling, it is detrimental.  It makes the exhaust work harder to try and get up to its 430 cfm capacity  and it actually will cut down your air flow, not the other way around.  There is a reason that a whole lot of experienced growers only use 1 fan.

I don't see any alternating nodes on your plants yet--usually the first sign of sexual maturity.  It could be preflowers or it could be new growth, which sometimes really looks like female preflowers.

LOL--if it was rootbound  (but probably not, the roots will grow out the bottom way before it becomes rootbound) that is not really "messing with it".  What I was trying to say was to get some kind of nute regime, stick with it, and give the plants time to see the results of anything you have done.  With hydro, plants can react overnight, but soil plants it takes longer, unless it is something real extreme. 

Your plants look good.  Hoping for 3-4 healthy females for you (you don't have room for more).


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## Hushpuppy (Apr 19, 2014)

Totally agree with The Goddess  Thanks for the props, I am happy to help whenever I can. The cool thing with the lime is that it will also supply magnesium as it buffers the pH. The pH buffering may be the reason for the quick response but hard to say. As The Goddess said, you want to allow a few days after doing changes to see all the results before making any other changes.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 19, 2014)

Alright I get it.....well not really but I will turn the intake fan off just fuzzy on how the plants will get fresh air.  Will it be pulled through all the seems...I was under the impression I wanted to have my tent sealed up as much as possible.  Do I keep one of the socks open or less closed. .......that's what I don't get.  I also just went to home depot and got 2 8 ft runs of rigid ducting like hemp suggested will overhaul the vent setup tonight.  I also got pipe insulation that I'm planning on wrapping around the ducting from my fan that's hot in the tent to keep that heat out aswell and any left over why not insulate my reflector too.....that stays pretty cool except the part closest to the light bulb and even that is just warm but any heat insulation in the tent can't be a bad thing I don't think. ...


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## Locked (Apr 19, 2014)

Justanotherfarmer said:


> just fuzzy on how the plants will get fresh air.  Will it be pulled through all the seems...I was under the impression I wanted to have my tent sealed up as much as possible.  Do I keep one of the socks open or less closed. .......that's what I don't get.




All the tents I own have flaps on the sides for fresh air to come in.  I use negative pressure created by my inline fan pulling the air out of the tent through my cool tube. The fresh, cooler air is drawn in from the bottom flaps.  

You can see them at the bottom on this pic. &#9835;&#9835;&#9835;
View attachment bloomerang-4x4-jungle-grow-tent.jpg


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 19, 2014)

I see them but I don't have them I have two socks at the bottom and two windows at the bottom of the tent.  If you don't mind taking a min to Google something Google secret jardin dark street 2 dr90.   That is the exact tent I have.


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## Locked (Apr 19, 2014)

I guess those are your passive intakes then. I have never used that type of tent.

&#9835;&#9835;&#9835;


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 19, 2014)

OMG someone gets it......see why I'm confused


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 19, 2014)

Luckily I got some 90 degree collar fittings too while I was at home depot so I'm gonna stick that in the sock just to make the sock stay open and rigid. My concern is won't that let light in during the dark period.....I don't want to keep the room the tent is in completely dark during the light off period.....still need to see in that room


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## Locked (Apr 19, 2014)

Justanotherfarmer said:


> Luckily I got some 90 degree collar fittings too while I was at home depot so I'm gonna stick that in the sock just to make the sock stay open and rigid. My concern is won't that let light in during the dark period.....I don't want to keep the room the tent is in completely dark during the light off period.....still need to see in that room



On my tents those flaps are down real low and I have never had problems with light...and I keep them open.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 19, 2014)

I'm thinking of running some flex ducting from one of the socks on down the tent and attaching it to the tent.close to the floor.  That would stop light coming in I think and air is always cooler near the floor so it would be sucking in cooler air


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 19, 2014)

Does it matter that I am sucking on air from the top of the tent and not the bottom....I can run flex ducting down to the bottom of the tent too
Just don't want too much of a run if I am ditching the intake fan and going passive


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## Locked (Apr 19, 2014)

Since the warmest air is at the top of the tent pulling air from there makes the most sense.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 19, 2014)

No let me be more clear I am pulling air into the tent from the top of the tent due to vacuum pressure sucking air through that opening.  In the tent pictured you would be pulling air into the bottom because of the flaps being at the bottom. In theory if i ran flex ducting from the bottom of my tent out through one of the socks located on the top wall not the ceiling and ran it down to the floor of the room the tent is in that will be the same result as the tent picture you posted with the flaps at the bottom


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 19, 2014)

This is cool it's like live tech help.....now.only if you would guys would just fix.my problem for me like dell would doo


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## MR1 (Apr 19, 2014)

I say yes to the above question, although it would be best to have it coming straight through the bottom , less resistance from ducting. If you do it that way use the largest dia. ducting you have.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 19, 2014)

Alright I am officially running a passive cooling system.  I took the intake fan out and did what I said above I would do.  So far I'm at 79.5f and 52 percent humidity


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 19, 2014)

Well ill be dammed 78.4


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## Locked (Apr 19, 2014)

Yeah that will work. It might not sound like much but getting the air from down low that is even a couple degrees cooler will help.

&#9835;&#9835;&#9835;


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 19, 2014)

OMG I just tried to replace all my flex ducting with rigid ducting a 6in rigid ducting won't fit over my filter....need to get a coupler to attach to the filter then the rigid ducting.....just letting any newbie like my self reading.....maybe next time get an inch bigger than you need just to make sure you can always seal it with foil hvac tape....or don't be a dumb *** like me and measure measure measure don't take given measurements for anything measure your self


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 20, 2014)

Update.  I know just have ONE 440cfm fan hooked up to my tent now.  Its is resting on top of the tent it self.  I also put hose clamps on all the fittings instead of relying on duct tape to attach every thing and keep everything together(I was just naive about how import good airflow was and over estimated how much a 440 cfm fan could pull.)  All the places where there were hard 90 degree turns in the ducting I changed them to a more gradual C shape instead of a _| to help stop air being reflected back and removing all the resistance I can.  I also ran flex ducting from inside the tent atthe bottom(resting a few inches from the bottom through one of the socks and down the outside of the tent and have it resting on the floor so air is being pulled from the floor of my room where air is cooler then at the middle or top of the room.....also opened up the 2in cable sock at the bottom of the tent so air could also be pulled from there and opened up a few of the other socks a little so there are multiple points air can be pulled into the tent to cool it.  I understand passive cooling now......bet hemp wanted to go up side my head trying to explain that to me. God damn it boy you dont need to know why it works you just need to know it does damn it.  Now do it.  Sorry I am not mechanical at all.  Seriously when it comes to this type of stuff and putting things together and know how things work.....not me....not in anyway....  Just my tent not having flaps at the bottom was throwing me off but I should have gotten it any way.  My tent temperature is 73.2 and my thermostat in my house says its the 73.5.  Its 40 degrees outside where I am and its only 6 but the fact that inside the tent is relatively the same temp as my room is promising.  HAPPY 420 EVERYONE and stay safe.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 20, 2014)

Just wanted to post pictures of the changes I made to the ventilation setup keep in mind that I am not done changing things.  Cant get to home depot for a little bit so I wont be able to add the rigid ducting just yet.  So far so good though no problems with cooling at all.  I didn't even have to open any windows so the changes you guys advised me to make are working and working well.  Here are the changes. 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 20, 2014)

Also I have a sick plant.......I dont know whats wrong with it...This plant is the one that got a bit burned and bleached from being too close to the light(happend when I changed from the bulb that came with the light to an digilux bulb that put out way more lumens).  And I didnt transplant this one to a larger container till a few days ago(just ran out of pots and didnt have any till I dug around in my garage and found its current pot.  Those are the only differences in care compared to the others(which are thriving) 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 20, 2014)

It looks really green like lime green with almost yellow parts and really droopy....its been that way for almost a week now.  Im sure the transplant a few days ago is contributing a bit to the droopy part of the problem but it needed more room and I gave this a good drink of water last night I split a gallon and a half between all my plants.....

Just to make sure Im watering correctly.  I go by the weight of the pot.  If its real light then I water.  When I water I have been just pooling the water to the top of the pot....waiting for that to go down and do it again and then done.  But last night I got tired of spot watering every night so last night I watered till there drip trays had a couple cm of water in it and then let them sit there for a few min.  I emptied there drip trays and put them all back in the tent(i like to water in the bathroom or in a concealed spot outside because of the mess).  Was that too much water......not even reading anything on other forums anymore just asking here.  How should the wet and dry cycle be?  How important is it?  Just another newbie question...sorry


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## MR1 (Apr 20, 2014)

I think that is pretty close to what I do. Water till I get enough runoff so I can take tds and ph readings, let pot drain real well before I put it back into closet, make sure center of pot has drips on bottom because center of pot has the denser root mass so the water tends to run to the sides. I know it is time to water when the pot gets light and the leaves on the plant just start to droop. This works well for me.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 21, 2014)

I am trying to get more precise with my watering and feeding and so on and so on.  Just been my kick lately....with fixing my vent setup which now maintains just a 4 degree difference(again you guys rock going into summer setup the way it was would not have been possible THANK YOU again) from the room it is in, I went ahead and cleaned up the electrical part too, I had a big wire ball behind the tent and now I've got the power strips mounted on the wall and the ballast mounted on the wall right above and shortened all the extension cords or removed them if I could just made everything look clean and gave the fans on the inside the ballast better access to the air flow in the room and sitting on carpet was keeping heat in which you do not want with electronics the cooler the better(with in reason). Back to my question I am at fox farms website and looking at there feeding schedule and it seems weird to me, like they want me to use big bloom and tiger bloom during vegging(goes against what I have been reading) and everything just seems to be a lot.  You are supposed to feed twice a week.  The schedule is for soil and I am using there soil so I have to assume they are using there soil as well and they are from humbolt county so they know what you are using the soil for.....Just would like someone with experience to take a look at it and tell me what they think please.  Thank you

http://foxfarmfertilizer.com/images/pdf/SoilENG-Q2.pdf  cut and paste if picture doesn't load right please 

View attachment SoilENG-Q2.pdf


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## The Hemp Goddess (Apr 21, 2014)

I simply do not use that many products--to me it is ludicrous.  I personally have found virtually all of the "extra" stuff they recommend as a waste of time and money.  I use GH Flora 3 part series and add a little Cal-Mag in flowering.  Period.  None of this 10 additives garbage.  Nuting your plants does not need to be that complicated and I question the benefit of most of the additives.  Unless the company can tell you definitively what is in a product and how it benefits a plant and why you need it in addition to their nute line, I wouldn't use it.  

Just because you are using FF soil does not mean that you have to use their nutes.  Being in Humbolt County really doesn't mean much--there are a lot of nute lines formulated for mj.  

I like to keep things simple.....and when you are starting out, I thin k that is important.  I wouldn't get into a nutye regime like the one you posted.  First of all, your nutes would cost a fortune and honestly, the benefits of all those different things is really questionable.  Before you decide on a certain line of nutes, I would like you to look at GH nutes--so easy.


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## Hushpuppy (Apr 21, 2014)

I totally agree with THG on the nutes and the extras. The problem is while they (FF) aren't trying to screw everyone that buys their stuff, they do want to sell product. So what they do is produce a "generalized" formula for nute regimen that is the highest use it can be without killing everyone's plants. What they don't tell you is that MJ is very specific about its needs and those needs vary ffrom strain to strain. 

I most often use the formula that they offer as a general guideline ffor the ratios of the nutrients, then adjust everything down to 1/4th starting out then raise it each week until the plants are well grown and I think they are at max nutrient levels. Doing that takes a little practice so most people will slowly increase the dosage of nutes until they begin to see a small amount of leaf tip burn, then they back off just enough to stop the burn.

Some additives are important but most often all of the extra stuff is not necessary. Nearly all off the nutrients needed by MJ can be had in a basic 3part nute brand that is fformulated for MJ, like AN's Jungle Juice 3part, GH Flora 3part. Sometimes you do need some extra such as cal/mag supplement, or an occasional plant tonic can be beneficial, and the use of pH adjusters, but that is all most often.

I think some manufacturers strip down their 2 or 3 part base formulas to bare minimums then sell the extra P and K, and trace minerals (that were in the base) as additives.
I highly recommend ffor beginners to use the GH Flora 3part.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 21, 2014)

Thanks for taking the time to read and answer my questions I hope that you guys are seeing that I am not taking your advise for granted or its going in one ear and out the other.  I am trying to take all your advise and act on it.  If fox farms is really just trying to get you to use as much of there products as they possibly can then they are **.  I also agree with everything you guys said and it clicked right when I read from you guys fox farms main job is to sell there product.  Alright I already have ffarms grow big, big bloom, tiger bloom, kangaroots, comeback, bio brew and sledge hammer.  I cant just keep throwing money at this so I want to just use what I got.  Well I want to order GH 3 part line......but cant.  
So if I were to just use grow big, big bloom, tiger bloom and micro brew, that would suffice, right?


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## Hushpuppy (Apr 21, 2014)

Yeah you have it now so you may as well use it. I wouldn't go by their schedule at all myself. I would only be feeding with Grow Big right now. I would mix up about 600-800ppm right now. I wouldn't use the other stuff at all right now as I don't believe that it is needed yet. The GB is a strong salt based nutrient that will most likely kill most of the microbes that the micro brew would put in the soil, so I wouldn't use that now.

If the plants begin to show a little yellowing, you can increase the GB to 1000ppm and see if that corrects it but I don't believe that you will need that much.

When you get ready to flower, I would flush once then I would cut the BG in half and add the Tiger Bloom to bring the ppm up to about 900-1000ppm. Go one week like that then switch to 12/12 and at next 2 feedings reduce the BG in half again and increase the TB so that you maintain the 900-1000ppm. The next week would be starting the second week of flower, the next 2 feedings cut the GB in half again and increase the TB to bring the ppm to 1100-1200ppm. The next week would be starting the 3rd week in flower. 

At this point I would flush them again then allow them to dry out for a couple days then ffeed with 1000ppm of TB then when watering use their standard dosage of big bloom and the microbrew. The next week I would increase the TB to 1200ppm and continue to use the BB and microbrew with waterings. I would continue to increase the TB each week until you get to about 1600ppm unless they are showing some kind of issue. 

When you get within 2weeks of harvest(week 6 for an 8week plant, week 7 for a 9week plant, etc.) then cut out the microbrew as it shouldn't be needed. and cut back the TB to 1000ppm. keep the BB at same rate as it is organic. At the last week do a flush and then only give water. until harvest.

Now this is my way of doing things, and it is not a set in stone schedule. You have to adjust to fit what the plant likes. Also the last weeks before harvest vary quite a bit from grow to grow, and you can't always count on the breeders' flowering schedule. I always like to add one week to my flower schedule. I grow 8wk plants 9wks and 9wk plants 10wks. Again this is my way of doing things. There is not one best way to grow nice dank buds and everyone has their own methods. You will eventually find the methods and style that works for you and your plants. So be patient and flexible and watch your plants, but don't overthink stuff or panic.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 21, 2014)

That sounds like really good information thanks hush.  I don't have a ppm meter or even know how to calculate ppm so I don't know how to measure in ppm could you do that   schedule again except using tsp per gallon if possible.


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## Hushpuppy (Apr 22, 2014)

There is not a way to calculate the ppm per tsp of nutrient. You really need to have a good TDS pen and a good pH pen so that you can be sure that you are getting the proper levels of nutrients and that the pH is correct. pH is critically important for synthetic nutrient growing. In total organic growing it is not so critical because the microbes in organic nutrient growing take care of the pH(as long as your source water is not way off). MJ is very particular for needing the pH to be within a tight range. If it gets outside of that acceptable range, the plants will begin to suffer from a lack of nutrition and eventually die.

I recommend that you look up pH and TDS meters online. The Hanna pens are reliable and inexpensive and you can get them from Amazon.com


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 22, 2014)

Just ordered the Hanna Instruments HI98103 Checker pH
And
Hanna Instruments TDS1 TDS Tester
Please tell me if those are good enough


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 22, 2014)

OMG OMG OMG OMG is this what I think it is?!?!?!?!  All are right around a foot tall so Im wondering if I should go ahead and flower? 

View attachment DSC00479.JPG


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## P Jammers (Apr 23, 2014)

Looks like a male if that's what your asking.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 23, 2014)

A male.....There is one white pistil in the middle of the pic I thought males didn't have that and it looks like a hair that should be on a nugget just white


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## P Jammers (Apr 23, 2014)

Justanotherfarmer said:


> A male.....There is one white pistil in the middle of the pic I thought males didn't have that and it looks like a hair that should be on a nugget just white



View attachment male.gif


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 23, 2014)

Just want to get this right.....taken with a better camera and different angle and zoomed in......just want to be thorough 

View attachment 20140423_015647.jpg


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## P Jammers (Apr 23, 2014)

That looks to be female, but the other side looks to have male parts. Give it a week or so, and keep your fingers crossed it is not a herm.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 23, 2014)

I think it's the shadows from the light and crap camera u used a flash and actually that is the same side just took pic with a better camera and a flash and got the plant and camera even so no weird lighting shadow effects


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 23, 2014)

Damn it....sorry I used...not u used.....stupid predictive text


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 23, 2014)

I just did some quick calculations about space......my plants are 11 inches(tallest one) which means they will get around 3 ft tall.  My tent is 6 feet tall.  My light is 7.5 inches tall and there is an inch or two added to the for the ratchet connectors and the s hooks the connections that hold the light to the rods just to make it easy just round up to 10 inches.  I need 19 inches of space between the light and plants.  My light and space between the light adds up to 29 inches.  A little over 2 feet.  That means my plants cant get bigger than 2 ft.  So I should flower in like a week.....just to allow some play in the calculations.....is my reasoning wrong on this?


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 23, 2014)

Also since you can clearly see the reddish purplish streaks in the close up does that look like it should be there or should I add .5 tsp of lime and water again


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## Hushpuppy (Apr 23, 2014)

Those meters should be good for you. Just make sure that you keep the pH meter in a 4.0solution when it isn't in use. A lot of the pH meters come with a cap that allows you to keep a few drops of solution in it so that the bulb stays wet. I used mine continually as I was in hydro so I kept mine in a measuring glass that was half full of 4.0 solution. Right now you will need to check your pH every time you get water or make up solution, until you are sure that it is staying where it needs to be.

That pic certainly looks like a female preflower but the other side looks a little like a male, so we need to give it more time to see what its going to do.

I had 7' tents and I typically vegged my plants until they were about 15" tall for Sativa dominant strains, and 20" for Indica dominant. This always gave me plenty of room during flower. You can also do a little Fimming on them if you need a few more days of veg to get all mature enough. Fim or Topping will stop their upward movement for at least 3 days depending on the strains (but don't top pure Indica or heavy Indica dom strains).


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 23, 2014)

That was the same side as the other pic I just used a camera with 10 more mega pixels and made sure there couldn't be any weird lightning effects or shadows also the new camera that I used has a flash and the old camera didn't......I really think it was just a weird angle which made the light cast shadows.  He'll in the other pic you couldn't even see the reddish streaks......


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 23, 2014)

I am gonna take some pics later but I really think I should induce flowering they can't be that far off from maturity.  If they are almost at sexual maturity I wouldn't think it would be that detrimental hell some people never give them time to get to maturity. .....what are the negatives I would think they would be minimized by how close they are......


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## P Jammers (Apr 24, 2014)

Patience Grasshopper. Good things come to those who wait.

Flipping now will result is low yield which is the main negative, but if you're good with 1/2 zip plants, by all means flip away.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 24, 2014)

No I'm not......I want more than that by a lot


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## P Jammers (Apr 24, 2014)

Hush gave good advice above on what he did in a similar setup. I'd stick by his side for this run and get err done, but patience is always key in this hobby all the way to the end.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 24, 2014)

Well hush has given great advice up to this point so Im gonna stick to him like stink on.....well you get the point......Here are some pics.  I am down to 6 plants from 10(3 were just barely into the veg cycle and one was left too close to the light after I switched to a digilux and got bleached and burnt and just stopped growing and was like 30% the size of the others so I said to hell with it and threw it out, figured more room for the healthy plants)  Gonna be a lot of pics I took 3 of each at different angles also the last two pic are of some sort of problem......maybe a calcium or magnesium def.  thats what pics say on here atleast on the sick plants part...... 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 24, 2014)

I know this is a subjective question but how much should i be expecting per plant........just a rough estimate.  what would you expect to get per plant?


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 24, 2014)

All look a little wilted because I just split two gallons between them all a few hours before so they should perk up in a bit


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## P Jammers (Apr 24, 2014)

All the pics you show are a PH issue. Get that corrected and your golden. 

Yield is always strain dependent and vary hugely. I would say 1 to 2 zips per would be a nice accomplishment for this first grow, but don't be surprised if you have one under a zip. It happens...

If you can get proven clones in your area, they are proven and should perform. Seeds are always a crap shoot, but for a pheno hunter always the game.

If you have ordered your meters then so be it and I hope they work out for you. Personally, I see their equipment as "cheap" and very basic with little to no accuracy over time. Wish I had a Grant for every Hanna I have ever sent back. [Includes their salt water testing equipment]

Having tested over 20 meters and brands, I only buy Bluelab now a days. For a handheld, I feel there is nothing better and it does it all.
[No people, I do not work for them either]

http://www.megagrowers.com/bluelab-combo-meter/?gclid=CMfp4-it-b0CFSwdOgodBRkAgA

Meters will be the key to a plant with no spots and healthy fruit.


Pheno selection will be the key to potency and yield.


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## Hushpuppy (Apr 24, 2014)

Thanks ffor the nice words guys. I am happy to help, and am always pleased to see others get great results from my help. You can call on me any time. 

PJ: I totally agree with you on the meters. I love and owned Bluelab pens. The only reason that I suggest Hanna to new growers is that it is a cheaper investment for the initial start. Also, ffor soil growers who stay soil, I don't think the pens are so critical as the individual gets more experienced. For hydro growing its a different ballgame. Your grow will live or die by the readings on the 2 meters. However, even in hydro, I rarely used my TDS meter (which was a Hanna) for 3years as I got so used to doing everything the same way every time once I had my method down.

It seems like soil growers get used to knowing what to give the plants by how they look and once they get used to using dolomite lime in their soil, pH is rarely a problem.

The necrotic spots look like either some calcium deficiency occurring or pH being off by some. I personally would transplant them to larger containers and mix in more lime into the new soil. Either way adding the lime to fresh soil will help them. I think the pots they are in now will be too small for soil style growing as they appear to be only about 2-3liter pots. I would move them to 1-2gal pots. If you had them in a hydro setup where they were getting continuous feeding, those 2liter pots would work fine but for soil growing it will strangle their growth and cut short the ability to get bigger yield.

Speaking of yield, there are so many variables to judging how much yield is produced, it is next to impossible to call. I know that when I had my 4x4 tent dialed in with 4 plants totally filling the scrog screen, I was able to yield around 20-24oz dry.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 24, 2014)

well my pens were supposed to be here today.  The post office(why amazon chooses to use an outdated and worthless GOVERNMENT ran institution like the post office to send there packages is beyond me) said they delivered it to my house at around noon....got the text at 1ish saying it was delivered went and looked for the package at around 3 and its not there........post office will be calling me tomorrow....I doubt that will happen.....Just venting....sorry......

I want to transplant them tonight.....they are in 8in pots now.....I want to put them in 10.5 inch pots and mix in 1.5 tsp of lime in each pot to combat the ph problem.....would that be ok or is that too much......or should I just wait until they need to be watered again as I have read that its good to water them right after transplantation......


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 24, 2014)

Well since I don't know where my pens are and I had some free time I went ahead transplanted into 10.5 inch I think they are 2 gallon pots and also mixed in 2 tsp of lime in each one to help there ph issues.   I'm hoping that helps.  So I hope to see healthier plants in a few days......


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 26, 2014)

After 24 hours after transplant they look almost worse to me.....is this something thats gonna get worse before it gets better.  Like the lime needs time to sweeten the soil......just wondering......again I transplanted into 2 gallon 10.5 inch pots and added 2 tsp of lime to each pot while I was mixing the soil before the transplant......I dont think I did anything wrong....hush said a healthy tsp of lime before and work it in the soil but I think that all got washed off when I watered(I didnt leave enough room for the water to pool) so this time I added exactly tsp to the soil so that should be about a healthy tsp(to me thats a heaping tsp)...... here are some pics.... 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 26, 2014)

I have some cal mag 3-0-0 I know I am supposed to stick with a nut line and thats it.  But I saw this and it says its specifically for using reverse osmosis water and Im using that.  So Im gonna be patient and wait till tomorrow and water them and give them some of the calmag too......just everything Ive been reading says its a calcium or magnesium def. and Ive already gave them lime so giving cal mag to me seems like common sense they have calcium def....and I have cal mag....one plus one equals two....is my thinking wrong on this?


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## P Jammers (Apr 26, 2014)

Changes you make will not show in the plant it's self for 72 hrs. Your issue is not a Calmag issue like many say on the net, it is a PH issue that has showed it's ugly head. Your issue is Lockout, not a deficiency. Necrosis if you will.

Necrosis: (death of cells or tissues) is not a disease, but rather a symptom of disease or other distress the plant is experiencing. This symptom appears in many forms, from dark watery spots on leaves or fruit to dry papery spots that may be tan or black. Portions of the plant may appear yellow or wilted, indicating a systemic disease that leads to cell death. Disease may be a common cause of necrosis, but weather-related problems, water quality and availability, insect activity and nutrient deficiency also may be factors.

The more additives you add, the more issues you are going to have.  Plants also appear to have been over watered which is contributing to your wilt.





I would drop ALL nutes and use properly PH'ed water at around 6.7 to 7.1 and keep it the same every time you water until these have bounced back. If not, good chance these are dead before they ever hit flower.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 26, 2014)

Ok.....will not use any more nutes until I see them being healthier.....keep in mind they were just transplanted less than 72 hours ago...so they might also have some transplant shock too.....I just felt them and they do feel moist but not wet.....so I guess Ill wait till the soil is dry....then I will give them a good soak.  I am using water I buy from the grocery store(they sell those big water cooler bottles now) so I use that.  I figured that it would already have a good ph because it is filtered water.  So I hope that this is gonna fix it....man this sucks....


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## P Jammers (Apr 26, 2014)

Just because water is filtered does not mean it is going to have a proper PH, and you won't know what it is until it has been tested.

I am "guessing" you'll see it is around 7.5 or higher.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 26, 2014)

Nope the water is 6.7(pens arrived)...so it's def the soil......


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 26, 2014)

Hell my tap water is was hovering in the range of 7.1-7.2(I live near 2 rivers and have a water treatment plant litterally 15 min. away from me....so we have good water Ive been wasting 6 bucks on water damn it......and even though there is no chlorine in the dear park water that doesnt matter to me atleast because the grow big would kill all the goodies in the soil anyway....hell with it and it saves a trip to the dreaded grocery store......


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 30, 2014)

This is definitely a male right?............ 
Will post pics of the others....just dont have the time and Ive been dealing with an infected tooth so that kept me sidelined for a little bit 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 30, 2014)

You can see the purple/red streaking has improved so I think I'm on my way to getting that fixed.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 30, 2014)

Had some time real quick....here are other photos of my girls.....well I have one confirmed girl and I believe one male......just waiting for you guys to tell me so I can throw it away.....I know patience is a virtue but if 2 out of 6 are showing preflowers then the others cant be that far off from sexual maturity.....am I wrong in thinking this?  To me, compared with the last burst of pics I posted they look over all healthier.  Do you guys agree?  Penny for your thoughts.  Also since they are in fresh soil I havent been giving them any other nutes, just water not going to either until the ph issue as completely resolved.  They are all around 15in 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 30, 2014)

If I am understanding the alternate nodes thing on sexual maturity then I believe all my plants have reached that stage......its a bit fuzzy(the pic but you can make it out, the branches arnt growing right across from each other, one is like .5 to an inch above and across from the other.......im probably doing a horrible job explaining that.......here is the pic that confirms they are ready...... so since I am getting the ph issue under control can I flower now or should I wait......just curious.....thank you guys for taking the time to read..... 

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## P Jammers (Apr 30, 2014)

Overall they look much healthier and the water only seems to have got them back on track. Personally I'd wait another week then flip and make damn sure they are on the rebound fully, but yeah much much better.

That said, I would switch over to your bloom nutes for this next week and get them ready to explode. 1/2 strength Grasshopper and ride that out until you start to see a tiny bit of yellowing on the very bottom leaves closest to your soil.


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## MR1 (Apr 30, 2014)

That plant looks male but another angle would be nice just to verify.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Apr 30, 2014)

suspected male
three different angles
they look like small pods almost.........just want more experienced eyes lookin at it then mine 

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## Hushpuppy (May 1, 2014)

I can't really tell yet. I would let them go another week then check them. If it is a male, you have plenty of time before it becomes viable to produce pollen.


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## Hushpuppy (May 1, 2014)

I don't know how much space you have for them but it will benefit you to get some garden wire ties and tie to several of the branches of the plants and pull them open. I would either use 3oz fishing sinkers and tie them off that way or punch holes in the rim of the pots and tie the limbs down to the rim of the pots. Opening up the plants is good for allowing more light to penetrate into the plant which will produce more, better buds.


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 1, 2014)

Im gonna switch the light cycle to 18/6 for this week and then switch to 12/12, Im trying to be gentle with there environment and not have dramatic changes.  I also took all the humidifiers out of the tent as I have read during flowering you dont want humidity.  Also for some reason that I cant figure out Im having heat issues.  I thought I had that figured out.  Litterally nothing has changed in my setup.....only thing I can think of is that insulation from my attic is blocking the exhaust.....ill crawl up there tonight and check it out.....also I really dont have space....I have 9 sq ft and 6 plants.....I want that plant in question to be a male so I can cut it down and make more room....the leaves on all the plants are growing weird because they dont have room to expand so......I would love to be able to pull the plants apart a little so more light can get in....but I cant......also read that people give there plants a full 24 hours of darkness then switch to 12/12.....why?  what are the benefits?  Is it less stress full? Just curious.....


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## Locked (May 1, 2014)

I wouldn't waste a week at 18/6. You can go straight to 12/12. They don't need an adjustment period. So long as your dark time is totally dark they will go into flower in a couple days provided they are sexually mature.  A week of 18/6 will do nothing except give them a chance to stretch a little. You will have enough stretch to deal with after the flip. Plants can double or even triple in size depending on strain. 
As for a 24 hour dark period before flower, same thing, just a chance to stretch without light. I wouldn't do it. Not that it would hurt much since it's just one day. jmo


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 1, 2014)

I need the room and Im calling the suspected male a male.....the tear drop shapped bulbs its growing keep getting more defined every day....ive seem the v shaped hairs that are female preflowers before and this looks nothing like it.....oh well....so far 1 for 1


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 2, 2014)

Alright today was a wake up call as far as temps are concerned it was like 78 today and I could not keep my tent below 81. My vent setup is fine just the location of tent sucks.  In a second story bedroom with crap insulation and not turning the house ac on just for plants....so I am flowering now so I can keep lights on mainly at night......schedule is gonna be 12pm to 12 am off that will keep light off during the hot day and off during peak hours.  I appreciate your advice and ideally would like to wait a week just temps are getting out of hand.......be done with everything by halfway through July and then take a break and clean everything up and start over during cooler months.....


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## Hushpuppy (May 3, 2014)

Yeah the 18/6 isn't needed. I have used the 24hr darkness before the flip to see if it helps speed up the transition but found that it makes no difference, so I don't use it anymore. I would say go ahead and flip them and if you need more room, just remove a couple that look the weakest. Or you could even take out a couple and keep them in veg so that you can clone them and save the strain.


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 6, 2014)

Can someone direct me to a good picture of hermy preflowers.  I have 2 females that are clear to the eye but don't show that well on camera one that is showing a single pistal and sacks where the classic 2 pistil v shape would grow out of and 3 that are also showing the sacks where the pistils would be growing from but no pistils.......it's been 4 days on the 12 12 cycle.   How long does it take for males to show definitive pollen sacks and how long does it take before the pollen becomes an issue


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 6, 2014)

any thoughts? Still too early? They almost look like another set of leaves and branches in the earliest development.....just wondering what you guys think..... 

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## Hackerman (May 6, 2014)

That looks female to me. You can see the tiny seed calyx starting to swell just below the sprout.


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## The Hemp Goddess (May 6, 2014)

That is just new growth--not a sign of sex yet.  If 2 white hairs pop out, it is female.  Don't be too quick to toss that one, it could well turn out female.  I had a Satori that I swore was going to be male, but wasn't.


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 7, 2014)

Alright guys I officially 3 females as of today....that one that I was asking about finally showed her goods.....the one with just one white pistil.....just saw the v shaped pistil just started growing too small to even photo but it's there


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## sawhse (May 7, 2014)

:clap:


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 8, 2014)

Just took out one of my plants and cut it down....didnt like what I was seeing, I was seeing multiple pods forming and it didnt look anything like the females.......I need to do get rid of one hell I need to get rid of another too but Im still waiting for the pistils to form on them I am pretty sure they are both female since they have single pods forming but no pistils as of yet a better way of saying it is they have made the place where the pistils would grow from but still hasnt produced the pistils.....
Gonna blast yall with some pics so here it goes..... 

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## Justanotherfarmer (May 8, 2014)

asf 

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## Justanotherfarmer (May 12, 2014)

alright I am down to the final 4 here and as hemp suggested I can only grow max 4 in the tent that I have.  So here they are.....Ive done some pruning at the base of the plants to allow better air flow.  I would like to employ some lst training right now but I cant.  Atleast I dont think I can.  I have maxed out my space.......is there anything else I can do to them to ensure or further stack the odds in my favor for a bountiful harvest?  You guys must be busy havent heard from anyone in a bit.........


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 12, 2014)

alright I am down to the final 4 here and as hemp suggested I can only grow max 4 in the tent that I have. So here they are.....Ive done some pruning at the base of the plants to allow better air flow. I would like to employ some lst training right now but I cant. Atleast I dont think I can. I have maxed out my space.......is there anything else I can do to them to ensure or further stack the odds in my favor for a bountiful harvest? You guys must be busy havent heard from anyone in a bit......... 

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## Justanotherfarmer (May 12, 2014)

Forgot to mention i am experimenting with damp rid to bring the humidity down.....can't get it below 64....which is down from the high 70s it was but need to bring that down to at least 45 percent.....should i get a bunch more and go nuts don't.....just wondering what you guys think......Also do i need to add a fan at the bottom of my tent as well or am i good with always having my exhaust fan and 2 regular fans in the tent blowing on the plants on all the time....


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## P Jammers (May 12, 2014)

I doubt you need another fan at the bottom if you have that much air already. As far as your RH, 65 is ok so long as air is moving continually. Not sure where 45% came from but that is a little low and 50 to 70 will work, again, so long as you have continuous air flow. 

As for your plants, if they have not been topped more than once that can be done again as long as it is not been longer than 2 weeks flipped which should help get more places at the top of the plants which=more bud sites for flowers to form.

I think you'll be better off skipping any LST as you really want to focus on keeping the canopy as even as possible creating more of a SOG/Sea of Green and focus all the energy of the plants to the tops only.

LST is great for running more plants and allowing fewer larger flowers at the tops, but with only 4 plants I feel you'll benefit more using the SOG approach over LST.

So what strains have you ended up with being ladies?

Looking real good in there so lets keep it rolling!


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 12, 2014)

Look as far as genetics is concerned the seeds they came from the white.....now the reason the white was seeded was from a little pollen slip up....now what pollinated the white I don't know...so it's the white or the white crossed with something else.....that's what I was told..


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 12, 2014)

Oh and the whole humidity level below 40 percent was from a few websites that said to keep it below 40 percent due to mold and bud rot and also said that keeping humidity real low like 20 percent low would increase resin production......don't know why.....I'm sure if you Google humidity level for flowering cannabis you'll get the same sites I saw.......


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## DnSgenetics1 (May 12, 2014)

They are looking great! Keep up the good work. Im subbed.


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 13, 2014)

With summer basically here.....and temps are 80s and 90s right now in my neck of the country I am wondering what the max temp in my tent should be.....I know ideal is upper to.mid 70s and a bit cooler during the light off phase but it's hard to keep temps at that level......I freak out when it hits 80 and turn my dimmable ballast down from 600 to 450 watts I can go down to 300 watts but would rather not......I want ad much light as possible. ....is it really that bad to go above 80 if not then how much hotter can it get.....where the strains come from it gets hotter that mid 80s I'm sure.....use wondering guys


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 13, 2014)

I have just started to germinate 1 albertwalker, 1 dank sinatra, and 3 blueberrycream seeds.  I am a month give or take a week or two from being done with flowering my current grow.  I would like to keep the seeds that i just started to germinate inside until the second set or maybe the third set of leaves form.  I then would like to put them outside. I would like to keep them outside until I can take some cuttings from them to determine sex.  After I determine which are females, I would like to move them back inside.  Is that a viable option? Only reason I want to move them outside is because my tent is full and dont have any space.


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## P Jammers (May 13, 2014)

Justanotherfarmer said:


> I would like to keep them outside until I can take some cuttings from them to determine sex.  After I determine which are females, I would like to move them back inside.  Is that a viable option? Only reason I want to move them outside is because my tent is full and dont have any space.



Not sure what area of the country you are in, but I always advise against going outside to back in.

Two main reasons:
1. Bugs
2. Lighting schedule is not 24/7.

If you can grow them outside, I'd fly that way.


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 13, 2014)

I can't grow outside.....If the only concern is bugs and lighting I can mimic the lighting like 14 on and 12 off for few days then 16 on and 8 off for a few days then 18 and 6 then 24 hours on......should be able to get them on a 24 hour on cycle in 10 days or so......With bugs I'm fairly confident I can deal with them.......my family has been in the garden business for all there life's in one form or another so I know the tricks to get rid of the major pests and I would probably introduce lady bugs when I being them in just to be safe well that and a good neem oil misting


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## The Hemp Goddess (May 13, 2014)

The pests that you can bring in from outside are generally nasty pests to eradicate--=not your normal outdoor critters.  Spider mites for example laugh at neem oil and frolic with the lady bugs.  

I am also thinking that your plan is going to be hard on the plants--changing the light schedule up like that and then reverting back...and while you can get them back on a 24/0 schedule in 10 days, I think it will take a lot longer than 10 days to get them back to any kind of normal vegging.


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 13, 2014)

Hmm....well I thought lady bugs eat spider mites and have successfully treated vegetables with spider mites by using neem oil.......I'll be I probably did not eradicate but I know I got enough to stop the damage and let the plant rebuild....was probably just keeping them on check......well that's it.....guess I'll have to figure something else out.....maybe a modify a rubber maid or something


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 22, 2014)

Alright I have a run away branch, its like 3 or 4 inches taller then the rest and nothing really to tie it down to.  It keeps hitting the light I try to keep it on the cooler side of the light in one of the corners so its being held down my the coolest corner of the light but still I know its far from ideal.........any ideas.....I can bend it I guess but I dont want to stress it out too much.  I just did there 3 week flush......figured it was time to get rid of the excess salts because fox farms is a heavy salt based nute.......I will post pics up in a bit.....dont have the time right now.....just checking in........


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 22, 2014)

Forgot to describe my flushing......hope its right.....
I have them in 2 gallon pots so I figured on 2 to 3 times there size in water should be good.
Meaning 2 gallon pot......5 to 6 gallon flush......
I chose to do 5 gallon.  I also used 2 tsp of sledge hammer per gallon as the directions said to.  So 10 tsp per 5 gallon bucket.  I used that with warmish water so I wouldnt shock them.  I poured everything very slowly and it took about an hour and a half to finish flushing 4 plants.  So hope that was a good technique.  Thanks guys......I am stealing this and using it to because its dope........GREENEST OF MOJO.......


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## Justanotherfarmer (May 23, 2014)

Alright here are some update photos they are day 21 or 22 around there......here ya go...tell me what you guys think.....oh yeah after the flush...I know have two runaway branches......damn things.....almost as tall as me chest level......they need to settle down and put all the growth into the flowers......anyways here they are..... 

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## Justanotherfarmer (May 24, 2014)

I have been reading and researching a perpetual grow.  How hard is it to try and get your plants to revert back to vegging after harvest.  Obviously you dont cut the plant down completely when harvesting.  What is the process you use to get the plant to start growing again.  How much can you cut during harvest as to take all the medicine and leave enough for the plant to use to regenerate it self?  I would really like another crack at these plants.  With the knowledge I have now I know I an get more tops and crop them way better.  It would also save a lot of time as I would know what sex the plants are and they would already be mature......


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## Hackerman (May 24, 2014)

Change the light cycle back to 24/7 (or 18/6, whatever you use to veg) and the plants will start to regenerate.

I did it a couple times and it worked OK. The second crop comes up a little bushy but I was growing a wild sativa. I cut mine way back. Down to the last couple branches. It sprouted just like topping (from each branch).


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## trillions of atoms (May 24, 2014)

You have to leave enough bud sites and leaves to reveg. If you dont feed late into flower it makes it harder.

I have revegged single plants over 10 times and the best way is to transplant after chop...leave foilage . Let sit in dark a cpl days and restart w feed on 24/0.


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## P Jammers (Jun 13, 2014)

Bumped for an update.
:48:


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## Justanotherfarmer (Jun 14, 2014)

Ask and ye shall receive........just a few photos....... 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Jun 14, 2014)

oh i forgot to mention......a day or so ago I went to check on them and noticed the light wasnt coming on.....checked all the wires and connections and the timer all were fine......took the lens off the hood and discovered the bulb was busted after being on a total of 21 full days(it was one of the bulbs that came with it) I cant get another hps bulb right now, so I was forced to switch back to my enhanced digilux mh bulb which kind of sucks but oh well, gotta roll with the punches......lesson learned as soon as I can I will get new bulbs and spares.....I am on day 45 so I should be harvesting in a couple of weeks anyway I am just amazed I got this far and they look wonderful


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## P Jammers (Jun 14, 2014)

Judging by the pics I would say you have at least 3 to 4 more weeks to go minimum. Most strains seem to go closer to 70 days, but they are looking real nice.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Jun 14, 2014)

Thanks for the compliment man.....I WOULD NEVER HAVE GOTTEN THIS FAR WITH OUT YOU GUYS(You know who you are) BIGGEST PROPS AND THANKS I CAN GIVE.  I doubt that I will be able to give them another 3 weeks......I am hoping to be able to give them 2 more weeks, this is my first indoor grow so I didnt know what to expect with stretch.  I litterally can not give them anymore room to grow I have the light attached directly to the support rods and have even by passed the ratchet holders to gain an addition few inches.....they are like 5 or 6 inches from the light and once they all start to hit the light....thats it......just figured 2 months of flowering would of been good enough.....guess not.....oh well you live and learn.....


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## Justanotherfarmer (Jun 28, 2014)

UPDATE TIME LADIES AND GENTS.......
59th day ahhh **** it lets just call it day 60 just gave them there last feeding hopefully......just a little big bloom, biobrew and root drench....half strength of each.....now I hope all I will need to give them is plane water and in a week mabye 10 days do a flush and then harvest soon after that.......what is the procedure on harvesting?  Should I do it bone dry, after watering wait a day or two........and do I need to give it a period of darkness first then chop, do I chop during there light on period or can I chop at any point there ready, just someone out there in MPLand give me some basic instructions on the procedure of harvesting.  Ok here are some photos 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Jun 28, 2014)

Also here is some that I sampled cut and trimmed and dried out a bit...... 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Jul 15, 2014)

Ok MP.  My first indoor harvest(second overall)has come and gone.  I would like to share some what I have created.  I have been told and have it on very good authority that I grew ***the white crossed with goji og.  I cut my girls down on there 75th day and flushed them 10 days prior with sledgehammer 3 gallons each. I dont know how much I got yet, I want to wait till its done curing for a little bit then, put it on the scale.  Ok before I upload the pics I need to thank a couple of people.  MANY THANKS TO THOSE THAT HELPED ME ALONG MY FIRST INDOOR JOURNEY.  YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE.  ESPECIALLY HUSH AND PJAMMERS!  Thanks dudes.......

*** The white is also known as Triangle kush.  It got the name the white because when it is on the plant it looks like someone through some confectioners sugar on it or something like that.  At least that's what seedfinder.eu says. 

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## P Jammers (Jul 15, 2014)

Congrats of your first grow dude! Everything looks like it turned out delish.

What's up next?


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## Rosebud (Jul 15, 2014)

Nice job, enjoy!


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## lyfespan (Jul 15, 2014)

Fruits of labor, always taste the best. Great looking buds


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## buddogmutt (Jul 22, 2014)

The first 3 pics .. That plant had a ways to go, even for a sample, but I feel you..lol.....the rest looks great, all in all nice job...enjoy..


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## Ilovesd (Jul 26, 2014)

Would love to hear the final weight as you inquired about a yield estimate several times throughout this thread.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Aug 1, 2014)

Ok guys final weight was just shy of 4 ounces for the whole thing. ....almost an ounce per plant.  From what I've read that's a decent haul.....especially since I was growing 3 too many plants for that size tent, 3x3.  If I had stuck to one and did some pruning to get as many tops as possible I probably would have gotten more from one plant and I could also trim things up to get light to more parts of the plant.......oh well all in all I learned quite alot....I will post a more detailed assessment later. ....thanks all


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## Justanotherfarmer (Aug 18, 2014)

Well well well........Ladies and gents....it aint over till the fat lady sings and that ***** aint belted a note!  I got one of my ladies to regenerate and boy did she.  I ditched fox farms all together.  I went with espoma farms organic soil and mixed in some bio-tone and some blood meal(not much of that but a little.) I am also feeding them with just fish emulsion 5 1 1 and thats it.  I also mixed in some vermiculite and s.peat moss.  I also have about an inch or 2 of river rock that I washed off and lined the bottom of the planter for drainage.  I know I am currently showing signs of ph imbalance.  I believe me soil to be too sweet or alkaline(a soil meter said that) so I mixed in some more peat moss about 2 or 3 days ago and the meter has fallen slightly to the acidic side so I think Im on the right track.  I really dont wanna use chemicals to acidify the soil.  Also would like some feed back on how to prune this girl up....if you need more pics of the structure of the plant just let me know. 

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## Hushpuppy (Aug 18, 2014)

Very good job on the last grow man, that looked really good.  

Now what you need to do is, if you haven't switched to flower yet, open up that plant. Get some weights or something heavy that you can tie the stems to and pull the branches open as far as you can get them to go without breaking. You could even build a frame on legs and string a screen of twine or use welded wire ffencing to create a screen that you can set over the plant and go down as ffar as you can to bend all of the higher stems so that they are spread out horizontal under the screen. Then allow them to veg a couple weeks longer to fill up the screen to about 75%. 

As you are doing this, go in and trim out the lower branches that are spindly and will not make it up to the canopy within the next couple weeks, and will not get any light as the canopy fills in the screen. Each day that you go in to look at them while doing this, continue to push all of the branches down that are trying to grow above the screen. Tuck them under the screen so that you maintain a single level canopy.

When the screen is 3/4 ffull, flip the lights to 12/12 to begin flower. Continue to "tuck" the new growth back under the screen as it grows until you see buds begin to fform. At that point cease the "tucking" and allow all of the growth to begin coming up through the screen. Most of the buds will shoot up from below the screen and from within the leaf canopy towards the light. This will allow 90% of the best buds to form in the bright light and be unencumbered by the leaves and branches of the plant. With this method, you will increase your yield.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Aug 19, 2014)

I am very interested screening as I would like to learn how to utilize that.  I am pretty sure I understand the concept but I am a very visual and hands on learner so could you give me some good examples of screening a plant.  No I have not flipped them to 12/12 yet.  I have them tied to the steaks to try and stretch the plant and open the canopy up.  Thanks for the compliments, all are greatly appreciated.  If I could star trek you guys some samples I would.....


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## Justanotherfarmer (Aug 23, 2014)

Hey hush....ive been doing my own research on scroging and it seems like everyone that did started growing into the screen from day one where the plant is still easily bendable and pliable.  My problem is that my plant is basically already established and the branches are to thick and wood like to bend....I mean I do have some branches that are supple enough to bend but the main branches arnt.  Im in total agreement on the sinkers and that seems like it would be the best option for me this late in vegging.....also trimming up the center of the plant where all the little branches are growing and the ones at the bottom of the plant so the plant can put all its energy to the main colas....already I can tell I have more tops on this plant then I did with the previous plants and its also a lot bushier then the others were.....thanks for taking the time man.  Stay safe and greenest of mojo man!


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## Justanotherfarmer (Aug 23, 2014)

Hey just wanted to shoot a little update on what Ive done to my regenerated girl......I lollipoped my girl and spread out her canopy as much as I can at this point....probably will be able to spread everything out more once she gets comfortable with her current state.  I dont want to over do it and break anything.  You guys cant tell exactly what Ive done Im sure so here it is.....hope Im on the right track...seem to be.....her canopy is now twice as big as it was last round. 

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## lyfespan (Aug 24, 2014)

Justanotherfarmer said:


> Hey just wanted to shoot a little update on what Ive done to my regenerated girl......I lollipoped my girl and spread out her canopy as much as I can at this point....probably will be able to spread everything out more once she gets comfortable with her current state.  I dont want to over do it and break anything.  You guys cant tell exactly what Ive done Im sure so here it is.....hope Im on the right track...seem to be.....her canopy is now twice as big as it was last round.



She's looking good, nice spread on the canopy. I think I might try a reveg on a plant in the future, as a lil project.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Aug 24, 2014)

Thanks man...... It's super easy man.... I literally didn't even really try..... I just left the last few crap buds on the plant and flipped it back to 24 hours on.....I didn't even give her any dark period. . Also I didn't use any expensive additives or notes.... Just some Espoma farms soil and some garden tone and fish emulsion.... All at the recommended manufacturer levels. . Thats it..... Seriously easy as hell and in just a month I'm almost ready to flower again


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## lyfespan (Aug 24, 2014)

Justanotherfarmer said:


> Thanks man...... It's super easy man.... I literally didn't even really try..... I just left the last few crap buds on the plant and flipped it back to 24 hours on.....I didn't even give her any dark period. . Also I didn't use any expensive additives or notes.... Just some Espoma farms soil and some garden tone and fish emulsion.... All at the recommended manufacturer levels. . Thats it..... Seriously easy as hell and in just a month I'm almost ready to flower again



That's just nucking futs on the turn around time, wow, gues between cloning and reveg there's really no reason for down time.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Aug 24, 2014)

Yeah man it is..... You can go through out this thread and see the turn around time.... Maybe I just got lucky but if it's this easy reveg then the hell with clones and down time......even if you had to leave some nice buds on the plant to get it to reveg it is so worth it just to be able to reflower in a month or so


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## lyfespan (Aug 25, 2014)

Justanotherfarmer said:


> Yeah man it is..... You can go through out this thread and see the turn around time.... Maybe I just got lucky but if it's this easy reveg then the hell with clones and down time......even if you had to leave some nice buds on the plant to get it to reveg it is so worth it just to be able to reflower in a month or so



Employing this on 3 plants from outdoors this year, to try and get a quicker turn around time on my indoor grow. Hopefully this will help me not to have to wait for the girls from seeds. Although I will be sprouting a few new strains next year, this Black Domina I will keep going it's some amazing smoke and a great growing plant as well, and it really throws the bubble hash too.

All about efficiency here, I smoke way too much for down time, lol


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## Justanotherfarmer (Aug 25, 2014)

Well as usual hush you are right on with the scrogging........I didnt think my plant would be so pliable.  I totally can scrog my plant out.  Im thinking a 2.5ftx2.5ft grid made out of stakes and string.  I could do a 3ft by 3ft scrog and just use the entire tent but I figure the branches at the exterior of the grid wouldnt get that much light.  Also before I attempt this can you give me some really detailed instructions....I have a really hard time visualizing things when reading them.  I am much more a visual and hands on learner.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Aug 27, 2014)

Ok so I am just wondering if I am on the right track with all this plant training I am attempting to do.  I am going to post some pics.....

My plan is to get the canopy as even and flat as I possibly can with stakes and garden ties and then place a screen an inch or two above it and let the plant grow to the screen rather then me trying to force the screen as low as I can get it.  I am going to build a screen out of wood, nails and string.  Its basically going to look like a basic square four legged table but with a screen as the table top.  The reason I am building it like that is to support the screen rather then the plant support the screen and to also act as a tie down to deal with stretch.  Also wondering how long do I wait to flip to flower.  If I flip now would I get a bunch of good kolas?  Just want some feed back from experienced eyes 

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## Justanotherfarmer (Aug 31, 2014)

Just wanted to shoot an update.... A little under a week ago I put some Espoma farms soil acidifier around the drip line.  It was 1.5 tsp.  I know that isnt alot compared to the planter size. The soil meter that I have says it's like 7.5 pH.  I need to get it down to below 7.  Im gonna add another 1.5 tsp and work it into the drip line again and see if that brings it down.  The previous application isn't bring it down I think I just didn't add enough...... Also the canopy is filling it quite nicely.  I do how ever have some bad news.... Just found the dreaded spider mites... I have to spend and good 10 15 min looking for it to see them but they are there..... Very small infestation.... Already done an application of neem oil.  I also trapped a few ladie bugs and put them in there.  Thinking about going the insecticide route but trying to avoid that.... Any thoughts would be appreciated....... Ok here are some images. I also don't know if I need to use the scrog.... I've got a pretty even canopy.... View attachment uploadfromtaptalk1409534362846.jpg
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## Hackerman (Aug 31, 2014)

If you are measuring soil pH with one of those "stick in the dirt" models, it might not be accurate.

As long as what you are watering with is a good pH you are probably OK. You can measure the runoff if you like.

What are those 2 black things?


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## Justanotherfarmer (Aug 31, 2014)

Sensors from a thermometer and hygrometer


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## Hackerman (Aug 31, 2014)

Cool. I love the electronic toys so I was curious. LOL


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## Justanotherfarmer (Aug 31, 2014)

Ya know I'm thinking about something.... I'm putting alot of faith in a 15 dollar soil meter..... Screw that....


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## Justanotherfarmer (Sep 8, 2014)

update.......did what I did last time, mixed in a table spoon of lime into the top layer of soil and plant seems to be getting better with the purple streaking, lesson learned, dont listen to cheap soil meters......alright here are some pics I am going to flip to a 12 12 cycle with in the week.......here are some pics 

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## The Hemp Goddess (Sep 8, 2014)

Looking good to me!  Boy she is growing into quite a nice plant isn't she?  Green mojo for a bountiful harvest.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Sep 16, 2014)

This thing is getting huge..... I can't resist..... THATS WHAT SHE SAID... 
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## Justanotherfarmer (Sep 16, 2014)

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## Justanotherfarmer (Sep 16, 2014)

Hey its posting doubles


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## Justanotherfarmer (Sep 16, 2014)

Less than a week of flowering and buds are already forming.... 
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## trillions of atoms (Sep 24, 2014)

Looks good farmer! That's good you learned not to trust soil probes. Quality digital pH meters are the way to go. Green mojo!


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## Justanotherfarmer (Sep 25, 2014)

Little update.... Just growth seems extremely fast.  Is it me or is this thing just going really fast... I don't have that much experience yet but look at how far along I am.... View attachment uploadfromtaptalk1411694664070.jpg
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## MR1 (Sep 25, 2014)

Coming along nicely Farmer, good luck the rest of the way.


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## Justanotherfarmer (Sep 28, 2014)

Trichomes!!!
Also the lower canopy is looking rough... Alot of dying leaves but the upper canopy looks good... As you can see.... All things being equal... I think it's just the lack of light.... Thats the only difference. Penny for your thoughts..... 

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## Hushpuppy (Sep 28, 2014)

Yeah on that type of grow, you will get the lower leaf die off as they go further into flower. Whenever I do scrog, I get a lot of leaf death below the canopy. I agree that it is the lack of light. Its almost like the plant recognizes that those leaves aren't getting enough light to be worth keeping so they pull the nutrients out off them and then drop them. 

 Now the trichs are growing, and the buds will begin swelling...... A very exciting time indeed


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