# making feminized seeds



## ganjadude11 (Apr 27, 2009)

i am fairly new to growing but from what i understand in order to get feminized seeds you need to have the pollen from a hermie plant then you use that pollen to pollenate any female plants that you have to make feminized seed, is this correct or can you only use the hermie pollen to pollenate that same hwrmie plant that you got the pollen from? which one works or would the both give me fem seeds.
thanks


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## tcbud (Apr 27, 2009)

if it was that easy.....
who would pay the big bucks for them?

After reading today bout genetics....my eyes are crossing.


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## ganjadude11 (Apr 27, 2009)

i dont know it could be because people just dont want to deal with it and many people probably dont know how.


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## slowmo77 (Apr 27, 2009)

hermie plants breed hermie plants. i wouldn't advise trying to make fem seeds. the hermie trait is one you don't want to reproduce. do some reading on the subject and you'll get a better understanding on this subject. jmo


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## ShecallshimThor (Apr 28, 2009)

i agree most "old school" true breeders think it contaminates the gene pool
but i have read up on it and if you do the proper work to make sure your genetics are good you will still end up with some hermies 
i would guess if you did it on your own without practice and alot of reading alot you'll end up pulling hermies intead of males


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## tcbud (Apr 28, 2009)

Here is a genetics/hermi question....

If you start from seed, and all the plants are treated equal, one hermies,
Is this from the "hermi" gene?

If one plant displays "hermi" while in flower does that then make that plant "hermi" from stress or her/his genes?

I understand that stress can cause hermi's, does that come from the hermi gene?

That was more than one question, I know.


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## Hick (Apr 28, 2009)

.. IMO.. _ANY_ hermie is genetic flaw.  It is a matter of 'how much' stress it requires for them to reveal themselves, that determines how poor/weak the genetics are, or how dominate/co-dominate/or recessive the hermie factor is.


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## TURKEYNECK (Apr 29, 2009)

this is a damn good question. I expect alot of opinions.. but I reckon thats all we have to work with without Stoney around


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## madpup (Apr 29, 2009)

> i am fairly new to growing but from what i understand in order to get feminized seeds you need to have the pollen from a hermie plant then you use that pollen to pollenate any female plants that you have to make feminized seed, is this correct or can you only use the hermie pollen to pollenate that same hwrmie plant that you got the pollen from? which one works or would the both give me fem seeds.
> thanks



*gibberellic acid* is commonly used to produce male flowers on a female plant which can be used to  produce feminized seeds.

Another method *Rodelization* is described below.





> How to produce feminized marijuana seeds
> 
> Creating feminized marijuana seeds is an art, there are a few different methods of application. I have written about some of my different methods of making cannabis seeds in previous HIGH TIMES articles. I have use gibberellic acid, light stress, ph stress, and fertilizer stress to force my plants to make marijuana seeds. All these methods are harsh on the plants, and some like the gibbrellic acid, are not organic. In my search for cleaner more earth-friendly ways of working with the cannabis plant, I have found a new way to make feminized cannabis seeds.
> 
> ...


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## Hick (Apr 29, 2009)

"femming" ....should be left to "breeders" with extensive understanding of genetics and selection.  NOT by 'seed makers' with limited resources, selection ability/knowledge or understanding of the risk of promoting hermies... "IMO"


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## houseoftreasure (Apr 29, 2009)

Hick, It is my opine, that while a "breeder" may do it better than I, I would sure like to learn, and know everything there is to know about growing harvesting and in general just the the plant, of pot. Understanding that plants are biological and therefore evolutionary, hence endless in thier variations and differences, so no "End" of knowledge exists now or ever in the future, I would still want to know everythin any one else does, and then know some **** NO one else does, and in the end become more sought after for my knowledge than Cervantes, lol. All *I* really want, is to remove any and EVERY one from my growing needs. The less who know about what *we* do the better. So I think it poor propogation, to stifle/elite-ify the knowledge sought for "femming".

Although, were I a "breeder" for a bank or grower selling these "femmed" seeds, I could understand the desire to NOT want my profitability reduced by other growers / pseudo "breeders" "femming" thier own seeds.

Any way it goes. I love this bar. It's my kinda' place.

And here's to our as yet undeveloped personal strain "T-P". (we still got to figure out how to create our own strain, wish us luck)


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## Hick (Apr 29, 2009)

houseoftreasure said:
			
		

> Hick, It is my opine, that while a "breeder" may do it better than I, I would sure like to learn, and know everything there is to know about growing harvesting and in general just the the plant, of pot. Understanding that plants are biological and therefore evolutionary, hence endless in thier variations and differences, so no "End" of knowledge exists now or ever in the future, I would still want to know everythin any one else does, and then know some **** NO one else does, and in the end become more sought after for my knowledge than Cervantes, lol. All *I* really want, is to remove any and EVERY one from my growing needs. The less who know about what *we* do the better. So I think it poor propogation, to stifle/elite-ify the knowledge sought for "femming".
> 
> Although, were I a "breeder" for a bank or grower selling these "femmed" seeds, I could understand the desire to NOT want my profitability reduced by other growers / pseudo "breeders" "femming" thier own seeds.
> 
> ...


stifeling "incorrec" and information that further promotes pollution of the gene pool is in "NOBODIES" best interest.
For decades, if not centuries, "breeders"(the breeeders that have brought us to the _ultra_potent strains of today) worked diligently to breed out the hermie genetics. Becuase the know they are detrimental to future generations. 
 I WILL  not back off of my stance against further propegation of hermies.  
Anything used in femminising should be tested for stability/trueism. SSomething I have a feeling few of todays "for profit" seedmakers consider.
  OR the ametuer seedmaker that has neither the facility nor the ability to grow enough plants for a reasonably decent selection variety to choose from.
  Since the popularity of femminised seeds, we have seen a huge increase in hermies populatin in grows here at MP alone. I can't help but feel that it is 'at least' somewhat responsible. 
"HERMIES PROCREATE HERMIES" ..


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## ganjadude11 (Apr 29, 2009)

thanks guys that is what i thought i was going to hear, i was just hoping that creating fem seeds would be much easier thanks for the input though


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## ShecallshimThor (Apr 29, 2009)

as for easy no
if you were to do it right you have to grow out reg seeds and stress the crap outta them changing the light schedule every week and with temps and such then find a true mother that can handle all this without herming then take clones and use chemiclas like mentioned above to turn one hermie then pollinate other clones with hermie
now ive only skimmed on how todo this so my info isnt the best but i believe it is the basics the rest is time with your plants
after reading my favorite breeders opinions on selfing i believe them when they say it hurts the gene pool to do this so do with caution or try your own breeding find a plant that you love and make regular seeds and get the traits out of it you want 
i think its better to pull healthy males than hermies


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## Hick (Apr 30, 2009)

HOT... I understand what you're saying. I don't want to discourage anyones desire to "learn" or educate themselves.  I just feel that ameteurs experimenting with femminising is "risky" at best and should be avoided. Every seed that come out of a half hearted experiment has the potential of creating tens of thousands more in subsequent generations. Tens of thousands of seeds ingrained with hermie gene/genes. 
I can't help but feel that some of these process's are  a huge step 'backward' in further improvement of the genetic structure.


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## ozzydiodude (Apr 30, 2009)

Thanks to you all, I now have a better understanding of fem seeds. eace: and good luck in your growings.

By the way Turkey, I miss Stoney too. That is a fountain of info that we all need to listen to.


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## FrozenReality (Jun 4, 2009)

Through my course of study I have come across information on making fem seeds in a way that involves non toxic or at least less toxic materials. It works very very well and I am yet to get a hermy from the seeds I made for my own personal use. The only thing I have against the process is I have seen numerous people develop a strain that they want to keep as is but the only seeds they have is female so they are stuck. The genetics will only get watered down from there unless they mix it with a male of a different strain but then they are back to square one. With that said here is the technique.

The technique I use involves colloidal silver. Its sold at health food stores as a cure all basically. the stuff that is sold is too low of a potency to work properly. First I'll describe how to make it and then how to use it.

Colloidal silver is made by electrolysis by passing a current through two silver electrodes suspended in distilled water.

The way I do this is I use a 12 volt 1.5 amp (1500 ma) ac to dc adapter. The average household probably has a box of these things laying around. Other reports show that 9 volt 600 ma ones will also work. Anyways you cut the end of this off and pull the 2 wires apart by about a foot. Strip about 1/4 inch of the coating off and solder an alligator clip to each piece of wire and then heat heatshrink over the exposed soldered wires.

At each end of the alligator clips you will need to clip on either a piece of fine silver wire (can be found online) or an old silver coin that has been cleaned of tarnish (can be found at hobby shops and such around town). Try to stay away from sterling silver, it is less pure. 

In an open air enviroment, submerge the silver on both ends of the adapter into a glass quart jar of distilled water. Make sure only the silver is touching the water. If the clips or any other type of metal is touching the water during the process it will produce rust amongst other nasty stuff.

Now plug it in and let it sit for 12 hours (making sure to check on it regularly so you dont burn down the house or something.) I put plastic wrap over it to protect it from stuff floating in the air. After 12 hours you should have a jar full of a brownish/amber colored liquid with possibly some white/metalic gunk which is just some corrosion. You can filter this out through a tee shirt if you'd like but I never do.

This brown liquid is colloidal silver. As is it is safe for you to drink just like the health food store colloidal silver. But I wouldn't recommend it, since it is a bit stronger than the health food stuff and too much of it ingested could turn your skin blue after a lot of use hxxp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sa2OpNTX9Ck 

Anyways back on topic. Take this brown liquid and pour it inside a spray bottle (1 dollar at walmart.) Now you are ready to make femanised seeds.. well kinda. You need a female plant and right after it shows its sex you can give whole or part of it a good misting of colloidal silver 2-3 times a day for 1 week. Some people will do this all the way until it starts pollinating but Ive never done it for more than a week. If you do the entire plant the entire thing will start growing pollen sacks soon after and you can use this pollen to pollinate other female plants to produce femanised seeds. If you do only one branch of the plant then you could turn around and use the pollen from the plant on the rest of it. 

I have done this quite a few times and am yet to end up with femanised seeds that hermie on their own and I have even done this a couple times from breeder femanized seeds that I wanted more of. If the plant already has the hermie genes in it though it would most likely show up at one point or another though.

With all that said if you want to skip the hole soldering alligator clips onto wire you could always wrap the wire around the silver as long as you make sure not to expose any of the water to non silver material.

I hope this helps you all with your adventures in breeding. Be safe.

I'll update this later on with pictures of my finished colloidal silver generator once I can find where I put the damn thing when I moved weeks ago.


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## leafminer (Jun 6, 2009)

ganjadude11 said:
			
		

> i am fairly new to growing but from what i understand in order to get feminized seeds you need to have the pollen from a hermie plant then you use that pollen to pollenate any female plants that you have to make feminized seed, is this correct or can you only use the hermie pollen to pollenate that same hwrmie plant that you got the pollen from? which one works or would the both give me fem seeds.
> thanks



Ganjadude, I have just been through this whole process so I can give you a definitive answer.
_pollen from a hermie plant then you use that pollen to pollenate any female plants that you have to make feminized seed, is this correct_
- YES, absolutely correct. The pollen needs to be from a MALE hermie, i.e. one that starts male and then bears female flowers. The seed produced will be all, or almost all, female. I got one male out of about 12 seeds. The rest were all female. And this happened with both the F1 and F2 generations (same pollen used)
If you allow the hermie male to pollinate its own colas (well, it's pretty much impossible to stop it doing that, the plant will be covered in pollen sacs) you get more seed that will breed true: producing more hermie males! You don't get hermie males magically producing male and female sexes. 

Hope this is clear!


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## leafminer (Jun 6, 2009)

Oh, BTW, I am going to wait until my current grows finish before commenting on whether these femmed plants go hermie. I will wait and see. I have grown 5 F1's and none of them hermed, they gave me some great smoke. So far so good.


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## bombbudpuffa (Jun 6, 2009)

Heres a couple pics of a female I reversed using STS. The thing about using STS or CS is it totally blocks ethylene production which the plant needs to produce female flowers. After it's treated female flowers will not grow on the plant anymore. The reversed fem looks different from any hermie i've ever seen because it only has male parts...it's like it's a male. I'll let everyone know in a couple months how "hard" it is to make fems. I got my method and advice from very very reputable breeders and so far it's working just like they said it would.


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## Super Silver Haze (Jun 7, 2009)

my growing skills are nowhere near the stage of breeding or making femenized seeds but it interests me so here is an article from ICMAG.com on STS Breeding.  i cant find the exact thread but when i do ill post it.

enjoy



STS-based reversals and feminized breeding

Terminology for STS breeding:
STS: Silver thiosulfate, a salt compound used in photography. In plants, silver interferes with, or locks out, copper, which is a necessary micronutrient. Making copper unavilable inteferes with ethylene signaling, and reduces expression of traits that are dependent on high levels of ethylene, such as female sex expression and fruit ripening.
Copper: a micronutrient that is necessary to assist certain enzymes in their function. Copper can become toxic at low levels, but a few parts per billion is adequate for plants to express their genetic potential. Because copper is needed at such low levels, it does not take much silver to overwhelm the available copper load and exert its effect.
Ethylene: One of the 5 plant hormones. The levels and ratios of these 5 hormones has a huge impact on the shape, strucutre, aroma, flavor, flowering time, and disease resistance of the plant. Hormones are the chemical messengers that allow DNA to 'talk' to plant tissues and determine the phenotype. Ethylene is primarily involved in flowering, sex determination, fruit ripening, and sensescence (rot). Ethylene is a simple organic molecule, C2 H4, which can also be represented as H2C=CH2.
In cannabis, female plants will produce male flowers if not enough ethylene is present, or if too much gibberellic acid is present. The intersex condition is due to a combination of genetic and environemental factors. Some plants will not turn male under the most extreme stress, and some plants, especially stretchy tropical sativas, will turn with no stress at all. It is my belief that the stress of severe inbreeding, compounded over several generations, is responsible for the majority of hermaphrodites in the drug cannabis gene pool (DCG) today.
Reversal: Treating a female plant with STS in order to collect viable female pollen.
Selfing: Applying female pollen to the female from which it was collected. Example : selecting a particular Willie Nelson cutting, reversing it, and putting the pollen back on another clone of the same plant. Applying that pollen to a different Willie cutting, or to another strain altogether, is not selfing.
F0: The parents selected to start a breeding program. Often referred to as P1 and P2, but this is incorrect.
F1: the first cross between two unrelated parents. The F stands for filial, and refers to the fact that all F1 progeny of the same cross are full brothers and sisters to one another.
S1: The first selfed generation. Selfing an S1 produces an S2, etc. Anecdotal evidence from Sam_Skunkman indicates that continued selfing to the S3 and S4 produces plants so weak that they must be handled very carefully, &#8220;like kittens&#8221; in his words.
R1's (aka Reversed F1's): When feminized pollen is used to pollinate a different female than the pollen donor. R1's will tend to act like a tradional male x female cross, only all female, while S1's appear to have some different properties that are not yet fully understood. Early reports indicatee that S1's are more consistent than R1's on average, but there are many exceptions, and more research is needed.
BC1: The first backcross generation, ie when an F1 or R1 progeny is crossed back to an F0 parent. Backcrossing can increase the influence of either parent, but continued backcrossing is too much inbreeding, according to both DJ Short and Rezdog, and should be used rarely if at all. One or two backcrosses followed by full-sib mating has beena successful strategy for many breeders, including the creator of Northern Lights.
These terms can be combined for shortand pedigrees. A second backross, followed by three generations of sib-mating, may be represented as a BC2-F3 generation.
Intersex: A condition in which a plant (or animal) displays functional sex organs of both genders. Easier to type than hermaphroditic. My belief is that almost all hermies are genetic females that have weaknesses in their ethylene signaling pathway, which makes them very susceptible to environmental stress.
Stress: Any environmental factor that causes a response by the plant. Stresses can be biotic or abiotic. Biotic stresses include insects, fungi, viruses, predators, and CAMP. Abiotic stresses include drought, poor soil conditions, extreme wind or humidity, or hurricanes or flooding. Both types of stresses can have large effects on phenotype, including induction of intersex phenos.
Hybrid Fertility: The degree to which any two unrelated plants can set seed. For example, crossing an Afghani to a Turk may produce 95% viable seed, whild crossing Durban to Mongolian Indica might only produce 40% viable seed. This is usually a measure of the genetic distance between the parents. The fertility of self-pollinations is unknown but could give the breeder alot of information about the breeding value of the plant in question. A plant that has a desirable phentoype, but is not very self-fertile, is likely very homozygous and will tend to produce consistent offspring.
Micropropagation: Taking very small clones and rooting them in test tubes containing a heat-sterilized nutrient mixture in a agar (gelatin) base. This allows for aseptic (almost sterile) conditioins and precise application of phytochemicals such as STS, auxin, or cytokinin.


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## leafminer (Jun 8, 2009)

Useful. I am at the BC2-S1 stage at the moment.


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## Rockster (Jun 8, 2009)

leafminer said:
			
		

> Useful. I am at the BC2-S1 stage at the moment.



 I love it when you talk filthy darling.


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## Super Silver Haze (Jun 9, 2009)

leafminer said:
			
		

> Useful. I am at the BC2-S1 stage at the moment.


 
its a shame i had to go back through the article to see what BC2-S1 was .  

Here is another thread from icmag.   
from Rez dog, from Reservior seeds:

Silverthiosulfate Prep 101
Preparation of STS:

First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss.

The adjusted formula is as follows:

Part A: .7 gram silver nitrate stirred into 40ml distilled water
Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water

Next, slowly add the silver nitrate solution to the sodium thiosulfate solution while stirring. This combination is then added to 800 ml of distilled water to equal 1 liter. This is your final stock solution. It is diluted 1:9 with more distilled water to make your final working solution, which then gets sprayed on your target plant.

Either formula will work great, so don't sweat it too much. But do that second spraying at the end of week 2... seems to be the key for getting pollen from the more difficult strains.


Application:

The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.

Effects:

Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very careful: pollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.

About the chemicals:

Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.


always learning


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## aplaisia (Aug 15, 2009)

slowmo77 said:
			
		

> hermie plants breed hermie plants. i wouldn't advise trying to make fem seeds. the hermie trait is one you don't want to reproduce. do some reading on the subject and you'll get a better understanding on this subject. jmo


 
You might try reading about sativa and hermies... It's not always a fem'd plant that will herm (which may be associated hormones and genetics). Also you have to consider the kayotype. 

Female -
18 Autosomes and X X Sex Chromosomes

Female Intersex
18 Autosomes and x x (recessive)
or
18 Autosomes and x X (rec, dom)

Super Male -
18 autosomes and Y Y Sex Chromosomes
or
18 Autosomes and y Y (rec, dom) Sex Chromosomes 
or 
18 Autosomes and x y (recessive) Sex Chromosomes

Male - 
18 Autosomes and X Y Sex Chromosomes
or
18 Autosomes and x y (recessive) Sex Chromosomes

Male Intersex - 
18 Autosomes and y y (recessive)
or 
18 Autosomes and X y (Dom, Rec)


If there are MADC genes you will have Male Associated DNA in you Cannabis (MADC), which I believe would be on the Y  and y chromosomes only.

http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45624


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## Kushcrosser (Nov 25, 2009)

I have made fem seeds from light stress, and the seeds I grew from the hermi didnt have hermi traits. I just waited till the plants were in about the 4th week of flowering, and killed the lights for 3 solid days. No light at all! I checked them after 3 days and I found a male pod here and there. basicly what you are doing is making the plant think its life is comming to an end, and therefore it pollinates itsself to produce seeds so it can carry on next year.


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## legalize_freedom (Nov 26, 2009)

thats too bad....I had a whole strain that I had for 10+ yrs ruined because my buddy did the exact same thing you did...stressed out a perfectly good plant that I had never seen a hermi in the 10 +yrs of growing to get so called "fem seeds" after he did that, the seeds produced 30%+ hermi's.... grow out somemore seeds I think you probably just got lucky... keep growing them, you will get hermis!  Oh yeah and you will get straight up males out of those Supposed fem seeds...so that didn't work either...lol... a waste of good genetics is all it is! Good Luck in you endevour.


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## Hick (Nov 26, 2009)

Kushcrosser said:
			
		

> I have made fem seeds from light stress, and the seeds I grew from the hermi didnt have hermi traits. I just waited till the plants were in about the 4th week of flowering, and killed the lights for 3 solid days. No light at all! I checked them after 3 days and I found a male pod here and there. basicly what you are doing is making the plant think its life is comming to an end, and therefore it pollinates itsself to produce seeds so it can carry on next year.




"hermies procreate hermies"  THAT is a "FACT"...
"basicaly what you are doing".. _is selecting the hermie characteristic for future propagation._  Without previously 'testing' and selecting for _true female_ traits, you failed to even follow thhe basic *Rodelization *method properly.
Ametuers/pollen chuckers have no business "breeding" _femminised_ seeds, when they  fail to understand just how important "selection" truely is.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Nov 26, 2009)

Kushcrosser said:
			
		

> I have made fem seeds from light stress, and the seeds I grew from the hermi didnt have hermi traits. I just waited till the plants were in about the 4th week of flowering, and killed the lights for 3 solid days. No light at all! I checked them after 3 days and I found a male pod here and there. basicly what you are doing is making the plant think its life is comming to an end, and therefore it pollinates itsself to produce seeds so it can carry on next year.



You have NOT made fem seeds--you have made hermie seeds.  Basically what you are doing is perpetrating an undesireable genetic trait in marijuana.  IMO, this is part of why we are seeing such a proliferation of hermies.


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## Kushcrosser (Nov 26, 2009)

I see what you are saying, but why did all 5 of the seeds I started turn out to be fem, with no hermi traits?


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## ozzydiodude (Nov 26, 2009)

They had hermi traits all femed seeds have a hermi trait 1 of their parent plants was a forced female.


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