# build a bed



## growilla (Feb 4, 2008)

Just wanted to share how I build my beds and drainage. This technique is perfect for the "mandro" method...

soil and water...

I've included some photos that are from a recent rush job... they are not exactly to the spec's instructed here

but they will give you a basic idea of what your beds should look like at the important steps.

What you'll need:

A measuring tape
2'x4' stock (12' for a 3x3 bed, 16' for a 4x4, etc)
1'x4' stock (16 for a 3x3 bed, 20' for a 4x4, etc)
4 3" or 4" heavy-duty casters
1 shop-sink drain assembly 2.5"
1 2" holesaw
1 or more heavy-duty tarps or vinyl (should be real rugged, thick)
2.5" Drywall/wood screws
2 or more tubes of Henri's Clear Roof Patch
1 8'x4' sheet of .75" compressed particle board or plywood.

The materials above vary depending on how many beds you are building, and the size, but I'll assume you want to

build 3 4x4 beds for an area that is four feet wide and thirteen feet long.

So, to begin...

1. Carefully cut an 8' piece of 2x4 into 2 even lengths, 4' each.

2. Cut a 4' by 4' piece out of your sheet of plywood or pressboard.

3. Using the 2" screws, attach the 2 4' pieces of 2x4 to the bottom side of the
pressboard, each piece on an opposite side, flush with the edge of the plywood. You will now have a 4' piece of

plywood with 2 "rails" down opposing sides.

4. Cut 2 more pieces of 2x4, this time making them 3' 5", so they fit on the 2 remaining sides, between the

existing rails. Attach them with screws and now you have a surface piece mounted on 4 pieces of wood making a

square on the underside.



5. Using your holesaw, cut a 2" hole at the approximate center of the surface.

6. Cut a 4'6" x 4'6" square piece of tarp/vinyl and using a staple gun, attached it to the bottom of the wood

frame on one side, so that only 3" of vinyl is wrapping past the edge and around to the bottom. This will leave

enough to wrap it around the opposing edge, pull it taught across the surface of your bed and securely staple

along the edges. You should now have a square wood frame with a surface piece lined on the topside with vinyl

or tarp, with a 2" hole in the middle. You can use an exacto or razor knife to eliminate any extra or pile-up.

7. Cut 2 49.5 inch pieces of 1x4 and 2 48" pieces of 1x4.

8. Attach the 49.5" pieces using the 2" screws to opposite edges of the box, so that the 1x4 edging protrudes

about 2" above the surface of the bed. The 48" pieces will fit on the remaining edges creating a flush "lip"

around the edge of the bed.

9. You should now have a wood frame with a piece of surface ply attached to it, drilled in the center, with a

sheet of vinyl pulled taught across the top, secured to the frame, a 2" lip on all sides made of 1x4 trim.
]

10. Flip the box over, and using more 1" screws, attach 4 4" casters to the 4 corners of the wood frame.

11. Flip the bed back over, and using a caulking gun, lay a fat .25-.5" bead of Henri's roof patch around the

inner edge of the beds where the plastic/tarp meets the 1x4 trim, creating a water tight seal. It is ok for

this to get messy and use your fingers as long as you get it sealed. The cleaner, neater, more thorough job you

do, the longer you beds will last.

12. Using your fingers, take the drain spout and shov it through the vinyl (or cut out the hole), attached the

fastening ring on the bottom side, and now you have a drain in the middle of your bed, which is on wheels,

lined, roof-patched, and ready to go.


So my 4x4 beds hold about 4-6 12" pots in full bloom, are easily rolled out, and drain into little 4" high

busbins that cost about 50 cents each at Wal-Mart.


So my 4x4 beds hold about 4-6 12" pots in full bloom, are easily rolled out, and drain into little 4" high 

busbins that cost about 50 cents each at Wal-Mart.


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## Mutt (Feb 4, 2008)

moved this over to our DIY section.


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## Hick (Feb 5, 2008)

Mutt said:
			
		

> moved this over to our DIY section.


?? but didn't delete the "photobucket" links??
..shame on you... How long you been working here?.. NOT counting tomorrow?..


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## Kupunakane (Feb 5, 2008)

Yo growilla,
  Nice construction job. Can that roof sealant be replaced with a silicone sealant ?

smoke in peace
KingKahuuna


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## Mutt (Feb 5, 2008)

Hick said:
			
		

> ?? but didn't delete the "photobucket" links??
> ..shame on you... How long you been working here?.. NOT counting tomorrow?..


Crap didn't even notice.Guess your gonna hit me with the newspaper again ain't ya....


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## Dubbaman (Feb 5, 2008)

KingKahuuna said:
			
		

> Yo growilla,
> Nice construction job. Can that roof sealant be replaced with a silicone sealant ?
> 
> smoke in peace
> KingKahuuna


 
I wouldn't see why it couldn't, both are made to be water tight sealers. The only slight problem that anyone who were to try that may come across would be seeing how well the silicone would hold to the tarp, unless its more of a plastic vs vinyl, and i hope you get that cause i know they both are a plastic like material.


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## growilla (Feb 6, 2008)

yo-

Glad you guys asked, because the HENRI'S ROOF PATCH is THE SHIZZLE!!!

It sticks to ANYTHING, is unfazed by water and bright light, and lasts for years.

Henri's is clear, so that light is going right through it....


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