# curling leaves



## rotts4su (Jul 25, 2015)

Hi all,  am a first time grower.  My taller plants are green crack and doing well, in 15 to 20 smart pots, started from seed this late winter indoors.  Am in southern California.  My last two have been white widow and planted just two or so months ago.  All plants are now in the same area.  One of my white widow is corkscrewing new leaves on one side of the plant,  half is normal.  The other white widow is just beginning to show a leaf or so curling on new growth.  I have researched and studied, cannot pinpoint what this is.  I know my ph is a little high, a little over 7.  Am hitting both plants with ph down acid and also Jack's acid. 

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## zem (Jul 25, 2015)

it looks like magnesium deficiency, try to find signs of interveinal chlorosis anywhere on the plant, that way you will be sure. magnesium sulfate can be used as supplement


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## rotts4su (Jul 25, 2015)

thank you zem,  I haven't seen any discoloration on stems or leaf veins.  I'll give this a try.


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## Grower13 (Jul 25, 2015)

I think you may have more than a magnesium problem.......... as Zem said add some Epsom salt to you nutrients.......... looks to me like you got more than magnesium locked out.


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## zem (Jul 26, 2015)

rotts4su said:


> thank you zem,  I haven't seen any discoloration on stems or leaf veins.  I'll give this a try.



you should notice discolouration between the veins on a leaf but the veins remain green. If you notice overall weakness on the plant, then it could be a general deficiency and not only Mg


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## The Hemp Goddess (Jul 26, 2015)

I think it is a pH problem.  You should be pH'ing your nutrient solution every time you feed them.  If your pH is over 7 then you are most likely locking out a huge bunch of the nutrients that the plants need.  So, nothing you give to the plants is going to make a difference unless the pH is where it needs to be.  Plants will only uptake nutrients at certain pH levels.


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## rotts4su (Jul 26, 2015)

I did the epsom salt today, just added acid mix yesterday so will cool my heels for a few days. I will start checking any water added for ph before waterings, I am on a well and the water ph has been at 7 but that can change and perhaps I got a little confident and didn't do enough checking.  Next year I will use larger pots, the 15 gal is a little tight for this size plant (I think, I can see roots near the top) which might be adding to the problem.  Only the white widow seems to be affected, and the largest of these has very little spiraling on the new growth.  I will take more pics later to share with the forum, to see how this may resolve itself.  Thanks to all who have taken the time to input here.  I'm so close to a moderately successful first grow that I don't want to mess it up.  Two heads are always better than one:watchplant:


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## rotts4su (Aug 4, 2015)

Just an update.  Did the calcium/magnesium supplement once, then mixed each and every watering in buckets with the acid.  Finally got 6.8 to 7 readings.  Thanks to responders, I no longer have to struggle with trying to figure out what is wrong.  Did my water testing earlier this year, thought I was okay.  Am on well water, ph must have changed.  Thanks to you and this forum,  my plants are well on the way to normal. Picture below taken today: 

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## Rosebud (Aug 4, 2015)

Well that is good news. Great turn around.


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## zem (Aug 5, 2015)

they definitely look healthier, congrats


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## Sin inc (Aug 7, 2015)

I will have to go with thg here. that's looks like a ph prob their and mybe a mag def. but more so a ph prob. I would get that when I would get lazy and not ph my nutes. my leaves would do just that.


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## trillions of atoms (Aug 7, 2015)

Ph everything if you didn't add dolomite lime to your mix!


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## EDAW004 (Sep 11, 2015)

One thing to remember when you draw your water it will have a PH reading say 6 for arguments sake. If you leave your water in a container for a period of time and not use it the waters PH will rise on its own some times quite a bit. My water tests at 6 out of the well if I leave it for a week it tests at 8. Just something to take into consideration


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## sopappy (Sep 12, 2015)

EDAW004 said:


> One thing to remember when you draw your water it will have a PH reading say 6 for arguments sake. If you leave your water in a container for a period of time and not use it the waters PH will rise on its own some times quite a bit. My water tests at 6 out of the well if I leave it for a week it tests at 8. Just something to take into consideration



nevermind for arguments sake , what pH is your tap water?
my water is 8.2 out of the tap. It falls to 7.2 after sitting a day or so,
your's rises?
Are you bubbling this water?

EDAW004, I just re-read this and it sounds a little testy to me, I didn't intend that. I get wound up.


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## dcoukeking (Sep 18, 2015)

Drooping / Curling is the first sign of overwaterd marijuana plants. When you water your plants too often, its roots are sitting in stagnant water which no longer has any oxygen left. The reason your plants droop is because basically their roots are starving for oxygen.


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## EDAW004 (Sep 20, 2015)

Yes was bubbling the water


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## Hushpuppy (Sep 23, 2015)

water that is sitting out, exposed to the atmosphere will be subject to change in pH because of the chemicals that are present in the water and in the atmosphere. Depending on the chemicals present and the concentration, they will act on the pH. Typically, aerating water tends to make the pH rise, I suspect this is due to the amount of hydrogen, nitrogen, and oxygen in the atmosphere, getting dissolved into the water causes the pH to rise. 

However, if there are certain chemicals(or microbes) present in your water that interact with the atmospheric chemicals, it could make your pH drop rather than rise. It would be interesting to know what is in your water.


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## Rosebud (Sep 23, 2015)

Why were only two plants affected?


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## sopappy (Sep 23, 2015)

Hushpuppy said:


> water that is sitting out, exposed to the atmosphere will be subject to change in pH because of the chemicals that are present in the water and in the atmosphere. Depending on the chemicals present and the concentration, they will act on the pH. Typically, aerating water tends to make the pH rise, I suspect this is due to the amount of hydrogen, nitrogen, and oxygen in the atmosphere, getting dissolved into the water causes the pH to rise.
> 
> However, if there are certain chemicals(or microbes) present in your water that interact with the atmospheric chemicals, it could make your pH drop rather than rise. It would be interesting to know what is in your water.



I aerate the carp out of my "sitting" de-chloriinating, de-H2o2ating water ready for nuting.
The pH DROPS from 8.2 to 7.2 
I have latest city water report, what am I looking for?
Are you up on this stuff, HP? Can I take the lazy route and pm you a pdf?
I'd love a tailer-made nute regimen if anybody's feeling magnanimous


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## Hushpuppy (Sep 24, 2015)

sure I can help you if you want. we can do it in PM or here so others can see the results (if you want), either way works for me.


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## sopappy (Sep 25, 2015)

Hushpuppy said:


> sure I can help you if you want. we can do it in PM or here so others can see the results (if you want), either way works for me.



Great! I have no idea how to proceed but I'm thinking I want to know what's in the water to see if it's already in my nutes....
So I'm putting together an excel sheet with my nute ingredients in one column and I'll find out how much is already in the water (re the report)
and have it in next column.
I won't know what to do after that.


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## Hushpuppy (Sep 25, 2015)

Once we have that information, we can proceed from there. You may find that you have to aerate your water for a period of time before you can use it so that chlorine or other evaporative chemicals can get out of it. Then you would decide how much you want to feed them and mix that into the solution. At that point you would check the ppm of the solution and then check the pH before doing anything else. Some nutrients require that you aerate the solution for a period of time before doing any adjustments to the pH in order to allow buffers in the solution to work themselves in. Then you would do a pH adjustment, allow it to sit for a period of time, and then check again and possibly readjust.

This seems quite a bit tedious to do but you only have to do this until you learn what the nutrient brand, local water, and buffers are going to do each time. After you have done it a few times, it will become way easier and repetitive to do a water/solution set up. And doing periodic adjustments will also get easier as well.

I highly recommend that you get a notebook or something to keep notes on everything. That way you can go back and see changes that you made. And don't do it stoned :stoned:


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## sopappy (Sep 26, 2015)

Hushpuppy said:


> Once we have that information, we can proceed from there. You may find that you have to aerate your water for a period of time before you can use it so that chlorine or other evaporative chemicals can get out of it. Then you would decide how much you want to feed them and mix that into the solution. At that point you would check the ppm of the solution and then check the pH before doing anything else. Some nutrients require that you aerate the solution for a period of time before doing any adjustments to the pH in order to allow buffers in the solution to work themselves in. Then you would do a pH adjustment, allow it to sit for a period of time, and then check again and possibly readjust.
> 
> This seems quite a bit tedious to do but you only have to do this until you learn what the nutrient brand, local water, and buffers are going to do each time. After you have done it a few times, it will become way easier and repetitive to do a water/solution set up. And doing periodic adjustments will also get easier as well.
> 
> I highly recommend that you get a notebook or something to keep notes on everything. That way you can go back and see changes that you made. And don't do it stoned :stoned:



I have a couple tubs kept full and bubbling at the ready but I'm not letting my mixtures sit long enough before trusting pH readings. 
I keep a log of Ph, ppm, notes, but I'll be dammed if i can keep them labelled correctly, especially when things go wrong.
I haven't started the excel sheet yet , and I still have old nutes to use up.
I'll drag you over to my grow when the sheet's ready, I feel like I'm hi-jacking a thread here.
I'm going to start another thread on that last comment, you're right but boy, that's hard.


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## Hushpuppy (Sep 27, 2015)

lol, yeah every time I try to tend my stuff while baked, I screw up something so I try to hold off on the bowl until after I am done


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