# Temperatures and Light Sealing



## getnasty (Mar 6, 2012)

400W Metal Halide

I'm going to be switching to 500W of HPS (400+100)

Opened my closet this morning to see my temperatures at 90 degrees, with the door shut. With the door shut, it's supposed to be around 80 degrees, which is still high, but tolerable. Last night, I put a mylar "door" behind the door, to try to help light-seal the room. Is this what's causing my temperature to get so high? If so, I'll remove it asap and lightseal the closet somehow else. When the lights are off, I'm seeing light spill from between the cracks in the door, which isn't a huge deal as far as security's concerned because the landlord doesnt roll around here at night. But I don't want to stress the girls with the light leak, either. And I need those temperatures in check!

I got my other 200CFM fan working. I really didn't think I would need another one, but should I run the two 200CFM fans together in a series to cool the room down some more? I can, if need be. I just need to get more ducting and rearrange the way the room is set up.


-nasty


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## PuffinNugs (Mar 6, 2012)

imo 200cfm is not enough. even when using my 4oo watt, which is rare now, my fan speed controller is set to over half way on a 435cfm fan.

how are you venting your fans? you put a hole through the wall or what? do you have passive intakes or ere you pulling the air through the cracks of the door.

just trying to picture your setup and cant.


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## getnasty (Mar 6, 2012)

There are pics in my journal that you replied in. Lol! 

It sounds like you recommend running both of those fans in a series for added air flow. I figured as much. It should cool me down to the high 70s. I will need to get more ducting and clamps, but I can put the carbon filter on the floor behind the plants. Atleast until they get bigger, in which case I'll have to install a shelf for the filter to sit upon.

Here you go, your HIGH-ness. 


-nasty


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## The Hemp Goddess (Mar 6, 2012)

What kind of fans are you using?  A 200 cfm sounds like a duct booster fan.  If this is what you are using, they just do not have enough ooommph to do the job.


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## Jericho (Mar 6, 2012)

I Would tighten up that ducting as that will cause less air to be pulled and maybe move that filter closer to the lamp. That way it will pull heat straight from the lamp before it spreads through the room.


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## getnasty (Mar 6, 2012)

Just checked the label, THG. They are the GrowBright 4" High Velocity 170CFM [] Inline Fan's.


-nasty


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## getnasty (Mar 6, 2012)

Jericho said:
			
		

> I Would tighten up that ducting as that will cause less air to be pulled and maybe move that filter closer to the lamp. That way it will pull heat straight from the lamp before it spreads through the room.


By tightening up, do you mean shortening the ducting between the fan and the exhaust hole?


-nasty


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## Jericho (Mar 6, 2012)

Yeh. You should only have as much ducting as you need. Otherwise it just puts more stress on the fan to pull air. Can you maybe move the exit hole higher up? Why is it down so low?


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## PuffinNugs (Mar 6, 2012)

yes imo you have way too much ducting going on, plus the CFM is just not enough. (i have same fan from HTGsuppy, never use it, loud. got the 6" instead, much more cfm and quieter)

in that space i would look into a different hood, an air-cooled hood. that way you can hook the ducting right to it and vent the bulb before it goes into the room, while exhausting the room itself at the same time.

does that hood your using have the upgrade option? im guessing its a hydrofarm radiant.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Mar 6, 2012)

First of all, I would not be using the filter at all until you need it.  And when you do, you are going to need a bigger/better fan (check the min CFM for your filter--bet it is 220 or more).  

Next, I would get the exhaust somewhere close to my light to try and pull heat from there.  I do not raise and lower my light--I raise and lower my plants.  An air cooled hood would help a whole bunch with heat.

Next, you need to deal with the ducting.  You want as short a run as possible and NO dips and as few bends as possible.  You might want to check into some semi rigid ducting.  Is there any reason that the exhaust does not exit the room at the top where the fan is sitting now?  You could go straight out with no virtually no bends in the ducting.


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## getnasty (Mar 6, 2012)

The exhaust is as low as it is so it can be concealed by my dresser, in the event of any unwanted visitors. Stealth is the idea. I did not want to cut a hole into the attic, as I rent the property. So I bought a new door and cut the holes in it, instead.

I've been trying to avoid getting the air-cooled hood. As I've stated before, I don't make a whole lot of money where I work, and am still having trouble finding work in my career field. However, it looks like it's going to have to be another incurred expense. I already have to buy an HPS grow light, as I purchased a MH inadvertantly and have no way of returning it.

I don't think my hood has the upgrade option. It was purchased from craigslist.

At this point in time, it's looking like I'm going to have to make a large sacrifice over the next few weeks, bite the bullet, and purchase this:

hxxp://htgsupply.com/Product-Digital-Greenhouse-Dimmable-400-Watt-Grow-Light.asp

I believe it comes with an air-cooled hood, a dimmable 400w ballast, that can fire MH or HPS. I think this will ultimately be the cheapest solution to my issue. That, and now I also need a 6" fan. Oy vey. But I can return the 4" I just purchased, and for another additional $20 or so, get the 6". This should be adequate yes? Please say yes... Lol. -_-



			
				The Hemp Goddess said:
			
		

> First of all, I would not be using the filter at all until you need it. And when you do, you are going to need a bigger/better fan (check the min CFM for your filter--bet it is 220 or more).


 Without it, my bedroom smells like soil. Might be a little suspicious.  Also, the healthy plant is starting to give off a heavy trace scent of marijuana already. 


-nasty


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## getnasty (Mar 6, 2012)

multifarious said:
			
		

> Where are you measuring your temps from ?
> Pic four shows what looks like a thermometer attached to the carbon filter ?
> I measure my temps at canopy height


Yeah, that's the only thermometer in there. I have a non-digital thermometer i can put down by the plants but I'm almost scared to do it. Lol.


-nasty


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## Jericho (Mar 6, 2012)

If its that high up near the filter imagine the temp on the plants. Always test your temps at the canopy otherwise whats the point? hehe. Temp is being regulated for the plants after all. 
Maybe you could cut a hole at the top of the door and just get a poster to stick other it if someone comes round. 

As others have said looking into another fan would be an ideal idea if you keeping that filter mate.


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## getnasty (Mar 6, 2012)

Any tips on light sealing door cracks? So I can take the mylar door cover off.


-nasty


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## Jericho (Mar 6, 2012)

multifarious said:
			
		

> draft strips will help with cracks
> Light baffles will help with the inlets
> is that a power cord entering the room, lower rhs of the door?




Thats def a power cord. Should just pass it through the air intake.


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## getnasty (Mar 6, 2012)

I closed the door this morning for a couple hours with the thermometer at the canopy level. It's steady at 85 degrees. With the door open it drops to about 82 degrees. I'm getting ready to lower the filter to the light level, but figure I should probably move the fan with it, instea of hanging it in the top of the closet. Maybe staple some mylar to the bottom of that shelf, and move it down to increase light reflection? I'm hoping this helps regulate my temperatures, as I'm worried about having to make this investment very soon, with little means to do so.

I will be able to put my air conditioner in the window across the room very soon. And the heat will be turned off as we go into spring. It cools my bedroom very well in the summer months.

When I put that notch in the door for the power strip, I was misinformed that it was not a good to plug a power strip into an extension cord. I did some research and it appears that this isn't a hazard as I previously thought, so I'll pass it under the dresser, through the intake. It'll make it a bit stealthier, anyways. Thanks! In regards to the light baffles, I don't see any on Lowes' website that are 2.5".

-nasty


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## The Hemp Goddess (Mar 6, 2012)

Are you actually even pulling any air through the filter?  With a 170 cfm fan and most filters requiring at least 220 cfm or so fan, it is hard for me to see where you are exchanging much air at all...

What do you have that is 2.5"?  You're not trying to exhaust with a single 2.5 inch hole are you?  If so, that is not nearly big enough.

When running extension cords, make sure that you are running a large enough gauge cord.


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## PuffinNugs (Mar 6, 2012)

one thing i notice about your setup is the exhaust and intakes.

it looks like your exhausting out, then the intakes are sucking th ehot air right back in.


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## getnasty (Mar 6, 2012)

The Hemp Goddess said:
			
		

> Are you actually even pulling any air through the filter?  With a 170 cfm fan and most filters requiring at least 220 cfm or so fan, it is hard for me to see where you are exchanging much air at all...
> 
> What do you have that is 2.5"?  You're not trying to exhaust with a single 2.5 inch hole are you?  If so, that is not nearly big enough.
> 
> When running extension cords, make sure that you are running a large enough gauge cord.


The intake holes are 2.5" diameter. My exhaust seems very powerful. It is 4". It seems as if it draws out a lot of air.It is also worth mentioning that the air that it draws out does not seem hot, or warm. Holding a sheet of paper up in front of it,  with the door closed, the paper is completely horizonal, with ripples of air making it flap like a strong breeze.



			
				PuffinNugs said:
			
		

> one thing i notice about your setup is the exhaust and intakes.
> 
> it looks like your exhausting out, then the intakes are sucking th ehot air right back in.


Hot air rises, is my logic behind this... As it's expelled, it goes outward, and upward. Where as my intakes are sucking straight from the floor, where the air is cool. I can take temperature readings if it becomes necessary.


-nasty


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## Jericho (Mar 6, 2012)

Hot air does rise but if there is suction nearby it will be drawn towards it. 

The way i see it is if your fan was strong enough it should at least tighten up that ducting a little when the fan is on. 

To block light coming through the intake holes you can use a piece of cardboard cut into a shape that makes it slant off the door, the paint inside matt black and stick it over the wholes. This way light wont get in through there. 

I would still move your output hole higher and get a better fan. That should solve your problems straight away.


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## getnasty (Mar 6, 2012)

Jericho said:
			
		

> Hot air does rise but if there is suction nearby it will be drawn towards it.
> 
> The way i see it is if your fan was strong enough it should at least tighten up that ducting a little when the fan is on.
> 
> ...


The exhaust outlet has to stay where it's at so it can be covered. After I move the fan/filter, I'll take a reading and see about getting another fan, if my temperature's aren't better. Also, the fan does tighten up the ducting when it is on. I put an excessive amount there so that when I open the door, it doesn't interfere with anything. I can take a few feet off after I move the fan/filter.


-nasty


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## getnasty (Mar 7, 2012)

Modified it a little bit. The towels are there for padding to keep vibrations from being so loud until I can replace the fan with a 6", if need be. The temperature read 87 degrees with the door open. That's with the heat on at 70 degrees already, and the window shut. The window is open, the heat vent is covered, and the door to the closet is shut. In the morning we'll see what the temperatures are running. The healthy plant doesn't seem to mind the heat right now. I'm working with my partner to try to come up with the $225 to purchase the light I linked earlier. We'll see how that goes. As for the fan, I'm going to try to replace it through HTG with the 6" model, for an additional 20$.


-nasty


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## The Hemp Goddess (Mar 7, 2012)

You need to get your ducting so that it does not dip and hang like that.  I also agree that your intake and your exhaust need to be a lot further away from each other--you are most likely just recircing stale air. 

I'm still confused on the vent holes--a 2.5" hole is 4.9 sq inches.  A 4" hole is 12.56 sq inches.  How many 2.5 holes do you have for intake and how many for exhaust?  If your 4" fan and ducting is using a 2.5" hole, you are restricting the area of the exhaust a huge amount with a 2.5" circle.


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## Jericho (Mar 7, 2012)

He has a pic in post 3 thg that shows it.


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## getnasty (Mar 7, 2012)

The temperatures are idling at around 85, peaking at 87. Friday, I'm going send the 4" back and have them ship the 6" off. It's $40 after shipping. Plus I have to send theirs back. But I'll atleast I'll have something adequate. And I can run the old 4" that I managed to get working again until the 6" one comes in. Next up will be the Mh/HPS dimmable ballast/air cooled hood. After that I'm done spending money. Lol.

I'm not sure what to do with the ducting, really. I've already cut 2 feet off of it. I need to be able to open the door. Exhausting out of the door is the only option I have for exhaust. And the exhaust has to be covered. Putting it up top and putting a poster over it is a no-go. The fan blows too hard for a poster to stay in place, and to boot, a poster blowing away from the door is a dead give away. I really have it set up the only way I can have it set up. Any suggestions appreciated.



-nasty


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## Jericho (Mar 7, 2012)

getnasty said:
			
		

> The temperatures are idling at around 85, peaking at 87. Friday, I'm going send the 4" back and have them ship the 6" off. It's $40 after shipping. Plus I have to send theirs back. But I'll atleast I'll have something adequate. And I can run the old 4" that I managed to get working again until the 6" one comes in. Next up will be the Mh/HPS dimmable ballast/air cooled hood. After that I'm done spending money. Lol.
> 
> I'm not sure what to do with the ducting, really. I've already cut 2 feet off of it. I need to be able to open the door. Exhausting out of the door is the only option I have for exhaust. And the exhaust has to be covered. Putting it up top and putting a poster over it is a no-go. The fan blows too hard for a poster to stay in place, and to boot, a poster blowing away from the door is a dead give away. I really have it set up the only way I can have it set up. Any suggestions appreciated.
> 
> ...



Do you have people walking into this room area of the house often?


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## getnasty (Mar 7, 2012)

No. But it is across from the window on the other side of the room, which the driveway from the behind the set of triplexes passes by. The only person I need to hide it from is my landlord, who very rarely visits, anyways.


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## Jericho (Mar 7, 2012)

Well then why not put the out take hole at the top and only put a poster over it when he visits. If he is inspecting the place I doubt you will leave the lights and fan running.


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## 7greeneyes (Mar 7, 2012)

When I had two carpenters/plumbers at my beck and call, I had the best most dialed in growrooms ever. The bloom room was in an attic, so we'd run ducting from the bottom of the house (outside) all the way up through the house through the wall up to the bloom room where it blew across the girls. Then on the outtake we'd have an inline ozone generator and blow out through the eves. Couldn't give you specs or anything but I know you can't have the intake and exhaust together like that, then again I'm more of a gardener then a carpenter...

eace:,

7ge


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## getnasty (Mar 7, 2012)

7greeneyes said:
			
		

> When I had two carpenters/plumbers at my beck and call, I had the best most dialed in growrooms ever. The bloom room was in an attic, so we'd run ducting from the bottom of the house (outside) all the way up through the house through the wall up to the bloom room where it blew across the girls. Then on the outtake we'd have an inline ozone generator and blow out through the eves. Couldn't give you specs or anything but I know you can't have the intake and exhaust together like that, then again I'm more of a gardener then a carpenter...
> 
> eace:,
> 
> 7ge


I guess I'm not understanding why. I know the closet isn't pulling in hot air from the exhaust. I feel the air from the exhaust where I'm sitting all the way on the other side of the room and it is room temperature. Inside the closet is not room temperature. That, I also do not understand. Perhaps it's just not adequate airflow? The air is cooling before it gets out of the door? Idk. What I do know is that the air outside of the closet door is not hot. Soon, it will be cold, as I just put my air conditioner in the window early... I opened the door to check temps and saw it at 90 degrees again. We still have the heat on even though it's nice out today, so it's making things run a little warmer. The a/c being in the window now will keep the room cool, and probably the closet too. Either way, by next week I'll have the new fan, and by the time I have to flower, I'll have the new a/c hood and ballast.



-nasty


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## 7greeneyes (Mar 7, 2012)

dude, you're talking to someone who opens the bloom room when the lights are on to vent and close them when it's time to go to work (coincidentally when the lights go off) I know it's not right but I do what I gotta do and my carpenter/plumber friends have long since moved on and I am not physically able to do all that work anymore. I just know that air under a house is very cool and there is no possibility of air recirculation i.e. stale hot air...thn again if you're getting cool air, is it "freshly exchanged" w/ enough co2?

eace:&Prosperity,

7greeneyes

p.s. Wowzers! Total run-on sentence action goin' on there...lol.


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## getnasty (Mar 7, 2012)

7greeneyes said:
			
		

> dude, you're talking to someone who opens the bloom room when the lights are on to vent and close them when it's time to go to work (coincidentally when the lights go off) I know it's not right but I do what I gotta do and my carpenter/plumber friends have long since moved on and I am not physically able to do all that work anymore. I just know that air under a house is very cool and there is no possibility of air recirculation i.e. stale hot air...thn again if you're getting cool air, is it "freshly exchanged" w/ enough co2?
> 
> eace:&Prosperity,
> 
> ...


 
It's in my living space, so I believe I am, as I've been led to believe so by these forums. Lol. As I understand it, there is an adequate supply of carbon dioxide due to it being in the closet in my bedroom, of which I am always inside when at home. So I think my co2 exchange should be adequate. Though I've been considering a DIY CO2 "system" -- tube with holes, yeast, water -- for shizzingigs.


-nasty


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## 7greeneyes (Mar 7, 2012)

right on right on:aok: if you're getting sweet cannabis outta it, then all I can say is what an old backwoods grow guru told me once: "Don't sweat the petty....Just pet the sweaty."  *_ding_*


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## getnasty (Mar 7, 2012)

7greeneyes said:
			
		

> right on right on:aok: if you're getting sweet cannabis outta it, then all I can say is what an old backwoods grow guru told me once: "Don't sweat the petty....Just pet the sweaty."  *_ding_*


We'll see how it turns out  This is my first grow, using information from these forums primarily. Some of it I seem to have jumbled up, but as I bumble about, I'm getting things in check and ironed out. Check out the ole grow journal if you haven't yet, and thanks for stopping by to help. 



-nasty


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## Jericho (Mar 7, 2012)

The co2 that you exhale is no where near enough. What you are doing will work. You will grow plants and they will bud and you will smoke it and get high. What we are advising will mean you have bigger better buds that last longer and get you higher hehe. 

I just dont think any one wants to see you waste money using an ac unit when you could just move the hole. JMO of course. Hope it works out ok.


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## getnasty (Mar 7, 2012)

The a/c unit is in the window regardless. I'm just putting it in a month early. Not a big deal.  And what I'm trying to achieve is those bigger better buds that last longer and get you higher.  That's why I'm trying to get this dialed in correctly, but in order to do so, it looks like the a/c hood is going to be a requirement come flowering time. 

One thing to consider as well, is that if I do move the exhaust hole up to the top of the door, I'll need to move the fan back up there too, and won't be able to pull heat away from the hood I currently have. Not to mention, I'm really not comfortable with moving it up there in the first place. Even with the poster over it. I'm just not seeing the exhaust being where it's at as being an issue. I truly do not think it's pulling hot air into the space as I can feel the exhaust blowing on me from all the way across the room, and even up close, the air it's extracting does not feel warm. Maybe with the 6" this will be different? I don't know. What I do know is that I'm going to continue to monitor the temperatures. Having the fan/filter off when he is here is a definite no-no, primarily when it comes to flowering. The scent will bombard him inside my room. I think the temps will lower to the low 80's with the air conditioner being on. Add the 6" fan in a week, and I could probably turn the a/c off until summer. We'll see. Either way, by the end of april, I'll have a new air-cooled hood in there. Thanks for all of the input guys! And any information to come appreciated all the same. 


------Rep for both of ya!


-nasty


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