# Powdery Mildew or?



## Relentless999 (Jan 17, 2010)

Alright this just popped up in the last couple of days.. I just noticed it today and it has spread like no other.. its on a good bit of my plants in veg..
I dont know what it is, and dont know what to do..

A couple weeks ago I turned back the timer on my veg inline fan to 10min on to every 40min off. Im thinking I should just keep it on all the time for better airflow.

I have neem oil, but Im not sure if itll take care of this..


What should I get? What should I do?

Thanks so much guys!


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## Relentless999 (Jan 17, 2010)

looks like it is powdery mold


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## Relentless999 (Jan 17, 2010)

ive read things like 1 part milk to 9 parts water.. is there an awesome formula at the indoor garden stores??


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## Kupunakane (Jan 17, 2010)

Yo Ho Relentless,

    Should this truly be the case and this turns out to indeed be powdery mildew then perhaps this info will help. It was borrowed from Cannabis culture Magazine.

_It sounds as if your plants have been attacked by powdery mildew. This is a mildew closely related to fungus. The powder is the mildew's reproductive spores. It thrives in an acid environment in a temperature range of 60-70?F (15-21?C) with a humidity above 50%. The spores are floating in the air and there is no practical way to screen them out. Instead, try to change the environment so that conditions don't match the mildew's needs. This may require raising the temperature or lowering humidity._
_There are also several safe and effective ways of controlling powdery mildew using minerals or organisms._
_Most of the mildicides listed here are fairly new and they are all much less harmful than the old chemical formulations. You won't find most of them at your local store or garden shop, but they are available on the Internet. Many companies sell them there. All of these mildicides are used on edibles or herbs. Some are naturally occurring organisms and are exempt from registration. Others are registered for use on vegetable crops and are considered in the "caution" category, the category for the least dangerous registered mildicides._
_AQ10: AQ10 uses a totally new method of fighting powdery mildew, a biofungicide. The active ingredient, Ampelomyces quisqualis, is a fungus that parasitizes the powdery mildew organism. It offers control over a long period of time._
_



_
document.context='YjozMDgjYjo0MTgjYjoyNjMjYjo0MDcjYjozMzAjYjo0MTZ8';  _
_​ 
_Cinnamite: Cinnamite is an extract of cinnamon used as a miticide which is also effective as a fungicide. It is very easy to use, is effective and has a pleasant cinnamon odor. Studies show it is not harmful to marijuana plants._
_Copper: Copper ions inactivate some fungal enzyme systems, killing the mycellium. Copper has been used for over 100 years, and is effective. A few brands of copper based fungicides are Phyton 27, Dexol Copper Bordeaux Mix and Kocide DF. There are many other brands available._
_Neem Oil: Neem oil is pressed from the nut of the Indian Neem Tree. It protects against and kills mildew by interfering with respiration and collapsing the cell wall. Some growers claim that plants grow more vigorously when sprayed with dilute neem oil twice a month. There are many brands of neem oil available. Many of them are listed as organic._
_Plant Shield: Plant Shield contains the organism Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22. This organism attacks fungi and mildews. It is used as a spray or dip. The organism seeks its food and forms a symbiotic relationship with plant roots, which it also protects._
_Potassium Bicarbonate: Potassium bicarbonate collapses and desiccates the mildew hyphae. This is a very safe, very effective contact fungicide. Mildew do not develop resistance to it. The potassium in the formula is absorbed by the plant. Two brands are Kaligreen (registered in California) and Armicarb100._
_Serenade: Is the fermentation product of a bacterium, bacillus subtillis, that inhibits cell growth of fungi and bacteria. It is very effective and easy to spray on or to use as a dip. It is a contact fungicide that kills only areas that it contacts. A wetting agent or spreader increases total contact._
_Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda): Baking soda leaves an alkaline residue on the leaves. The sodium collapses the powdery mildew cell wall and the alkaline environment discourages growth. Plants have a limited tolerance to sodium, so the residue should be washed off before more is applied. Used at the rate of 1/2 teaspoon per quart of water with a wetting agent._
_Sulfur: Elememtal sulfur interferes with mildew cellular respiration. It has been used as a fungicide for more than 100 years. There are small packages available in the baking sections of supermarkets._
_These new remedies make it much easier to deal with powdery mildew. They are all non-toxic and eliminate the problem fairly easily._




_Hope like crazy that this will help you._


_smoke in peace_
_KK
_


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## Relentless999 (Jan 17, 2010)

ya i saw that article. thx


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## Relentless999 (Jan 17, 2010)

i guess im gonna mix up 1 cup milk to 4 cups water.. cut all infected leaves and spray the plants down..


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## Kupunakane (Jan 17, 2010)

Yo Ho Relentless,

Remember you don't have to cut the affected leaves away. Just leave them there to make chloraphyll for your baby, just wipe them off.

smoke in peace
KK


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## Relentless999 (Jan 17, 2010)

k i just removed the plants from the veng tent.. sprayed the veg tent down with water to hopefully kill any spores..
gonna mix up 1 part milk to 4 parts water.. 
spray all the plants and remove all infected leaves..

should i spray once a day or?
any other advice?
thanks


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## legalize_freedom (Jan 17, 2010)

Relentless, since your plants that have this problem are in veg, I would just go find a good fungicide...I recomend the milk when plants are flowering, but in veg I would use the good stuff!  Most hardware/gardening stores carry fungicide.  But it may be hard to find now that it is the off season.  Your local hydro store should have something in stock.

You need to filter your ventilation to keep the spores from traveling.  Especially if your bloom room is using the exhausted air from you veg room!  Mildew is brought on by not enough air movement...and of course humidity, and haveing the mildew spores present...they need to be contained or they will soon be in your flower room.

1 time a day is good if you are running 18 hrs, if their is no dark period do it 2 x's.  If you are running a dark period I would move it to 24 hrs of light, mildew loves dark and damp...so lower humidity, and keep the lights on if you can.


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## cmd420 (Jan 17, 2010)

I gotta tell you that the milk and water thing didn't work at all for my PM..maybe I applied it incorrectly, but I don't think so...wasn't that effective for me...

Serenade is a fungicide that can be applied up to the day of harvest..(or so they say), but I am loathe to spray anything on my plants within 1 or 2 weeks of  being done..


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## Relentless999 (Jan 17, 2010)

thanks guys..

I removed the plant from the veg chamber and sprayed down the veg chamber with water..
removed the heavily coated pw leaves..
heavily sprayed all areas of the plants with 1part milk and 4 parts water...
i guess ill just put the plants back in the tent soon, without a whipe down or anything..
then ill reapply the milk/water tomorrow..
tuesday ill pickup the serenade


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## cmd420 (Jan 17, 2010)

Good call...

see if the milk/water option will help before you spend money on chemicals..

happy Sunday


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## Relentless999 (Jan 17, 2010)

thanks bro. im gonna put a carbon filter on my veg tent fan so hopefully that will prevent it from spreading to my flower tent


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## Relentless999 (Jan 20, 2010)

Just wanted to give an update..
For two days I sprayed milk/water.. I put a carbon filter on the exhaust so it wouldnt exhaust the spores to my other tent..
Yesterday I sprayed the plants with SAFER fungicide that has sulfur in it.
I kicked the inline fan back on 24hrs, along with the light..
I also sprayed the walls with water to possibly kill any spores within the tent..

So far so good. 
Thanks for the advice!!


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## Locked (Jan 20, 2010)

Glad to hear you hve it under control...


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## cmd420 (Jan 20, 2010)

Nice...cleaning is the key, cuz the spores like to hang out in the air and on your fans and equipment, so plan to sterilize the crap out of your space as soon as it's empty


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## ta2dguy (Jan 20, 2010)

hi relentless. i was just at my not so local supply shop and he was telling me of this sulphur stuff that you burn in an incense burner. can be used at any stage and is supposed to work great. ill be damned if i can remember the name tho, it was yellow  lol. i may have to call to find out the name if you want but it is recommended with effect and ease being of importance.....  i am looking for the "this reply is worthless without info" emoticon . sorry for the brain lapse but if you frequent a hydro shop or nursery i am sure they will know the stuff.


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## ta2dguy (Jan 20, 2010)

edited... i hope things are going ok with your girls and also that you have got the problem under control before it gets out of hand.  i was also wondering where the reply went from someone else telling me i didnt know my a$$ from a hole in the ground???? i am surprised that such a reply was removed since the person obviously had the parts to put it up in the first place. put it back man, i enjoyed it..... anyways, relentless, i wish you the best and i am sorry for interfering in your thread like this. happy growing and even better smoking!


Prevention
Powdery mildew is favored by dry atmospheric and growing conditions, moderate temperature, reduced light intensity, good nutrition and succulent plant growth. For this reason it can be a problem in protected growing areas such as greenhouses and indoor grow rooms on a year round scale. All mildew spores are spread via wind of air movement, and certain insects can also carry the disease. Unlike other fungal diseases, such as downy mildew, the powdery mildew spores don&#8217;t require a film of water to be present on the leaf surface to germinate and infect the plan tissue. Powdery mildew spores germinate best in a temperature range of around 72- 88F and in shaded areas of the crop, so it is more severe in closely planted crops. If the spores entering a new grow area make contact with a plant under conditions of reduced light intensity, a temperature of 72-88 F and absence of moisture then germination will occur within two hours, and infection will be two days later. 
Cultural Control
With downy mildew which requires moisture (relative humidity of at least 95%) to develop, keeping the plants dry and the growing area well ventilated when conditions are cool will help prevent the disease. Since powdery mildew can infect the crop under dry conditions, it is more important to select resistant varieties, and make sure plants are well spaced. Often a major source of mildew infection can be from plants growers buy in from a nursery &#8211; these should be carefully checked for mildew and treated before they enter the greenhouse. Between crops, all surfaces of the growing area, beds and gullies should be disinfected with a strong bleach solution or with an anti-mildew fungicide to prevent the carry over of disease to the next crop. 
Chemical Control
Researchers have found that powdery mildew fungus is vulnerable to sulfur. Sulfur works by &#8216;selective toxicity&#8217; that is, it is more toxic to the parasite than to the host. Sulfur should not be applied to cantaloupes because they are sulfur sensitive. Cucumbers are somewhat sensitive to sulfur, *gourds, pumpkins, squashes, watermelons and most other plant species are sulfur &#8211;tolerant*. New on the market to combat sulfur is the &#8220;sulfur evaporator&#8221;. This item uses sulfur pellets which are evaporated with the heating element found inside the sulfur evaporator. Many rose and cucumber growers achieve control or prevention of mildew disease with application of silica based dusts or sprays. Silica gives a protective coat over the leaf surface and thus prevents the mildew spores from germinating and infecting the plant tissue. Sulfur sprays and dusts are also used, Special not:* Don not use Sulfur 2 weeks before harvest on most fruit bearing plants. Sulfur can leave a residue on the fruit, making the fruit taste undesireable.* For the control of downy mildew, copper compounds are effective. Use only approved products by your local department of agriculture.

*Sulphur Burners - Your Best line of Defence against Powdery Mildew 
Intended for greenhouse use, the sulphur evaporator is a great method for combating powdery mildew in the greenhouse or hobby greenhouse setting. They work on the principal of heating up and melting of rock sulphur, powder or flowers of sulphur at an ideal temperature that will completely and cleanly evaporate the sulphur without residue. Sulphur has been used for centuries for natural fungus and mildew control. Eadh sulphur evaporator will treat a 2600-3600 square feet. It is suggested that the sulphur evaporator be used as a preventative measure and should be used for half an hour each day or until tip burn is experienced-then reduce time. For example, if the sulphur evaporator is on for 10 minutes a day and tip burn is experienced then reduce time to 7-8 minutes or until tip burn does not occur.*

sorry man, that is what i meant to say......:48:


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