# Collecting pollen/fertilization: the easy way- 1,2,3!



## trillions of atoms

This is the most cut throat easy way to collect pollen with out
contaminating a whole crop....making sure to seperate male plants
totally and wash clothes and body before re-entering the grow site
after removing males and collecting said pollen elsewhere away from the
growroom.
I seperate the males after choosing quality parentage....wait till the
bannanas start to spit open before they drop pollen.








Then i cut the tip off thats has the most mature banannas and either
stick it in a plastic bag like a small ziplock (leaving it open for the
stem to dry and so it wont catch condensation from the drying stem) or
similar container that will fit the branch nicely and isnt contained <i>fully</i>.







The next few days the stem will dry up (humidity determins how fast
they dry)and the banannas will open dropping pollen in the bag.







and your done!!

You can use rice to absorb the excess water to help keep the sperm
viable or silica gel packets That you get out of medicine containers.
rice works for me (uncooked of course), just throw it in the bag or use
a film canister (preferred as a cool,_ dark_ place is best for
storage).<br>

Either like that or one other way thats a little more complicated:
Cut the branches off that are fixing to open,
Fold a piece of paper in half length ways then open it back up....
Lay the stalk with bannanas directly on the paper and wait a few days
with no fan around-

The stem will dry dropping pollen onto paper directly,
Then pick the stems up tapping gently to remove any remaining pollen
off the bannanas on said branch,
Then fold the piece of paper back in half with a little opening on one
end and tap the pollen off the paper while tilting the paper on one end
into a plastic bag or film canister with rice in it (the rice acts as a
decantir absorbing any remaing moisture as water kills pollen) <br>

and
thats it for collecting the pollen.

Dip small paint brush(the fine detail kind) into bags and then dust the
lower branches (b-c popcorn buds) of the plants you want to keep
genetics from.

I use a loosely attached ziptie on the branch close to the main stalk,
colored ones if im doing multiple crosses- this way you can have as
many different crosses as you have branches.either keeping track or labeling it directly on containers 

i save the main colas and seed the lower popcorn branhces and the rest
go to clones or are trimmed off. Any sucker branches with little light
get trimmed as well.


In 4+ weeks the seeds will be mature....they will either fall out of
the pods or you can see the catylaxes starting to split. 



after that time expires simply take an object and peel one side of a catylax where
yo see a seed maturing back.

If the seed is a light/darker tan colored with darker coloered stripes
and zigzags you know they are fully mature.
As long as no seeds you pull out are white, yellow, pale or hallow then
your doing good!


feed a full range of nutes being sure not to overfert. and allow at
least 3 full weeks for seeds to full form.<br>

After collecting, let seeds dry (age) for at least a week or two before
planting, to be on the safe side. I usually plant after a _few_
weeks.


Simple as that!

:bong1:


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## Timmyjg6

Thanks for the info, but i have a few questions...
1. Do you wait till after you dry and cure the buds to remove the seeds?
2. How long do you usually keep your males alive for?
3. What kind of lights/ light schedule should i use in my Male closet?
4. What kind of neuts do i give him while he is growing, i am doing hydro and have bin using BC recipe for success kit for neuts, but don't want to waste on male. Can i use my Fox farms, tiger bloom/big bloom?

tHAnks


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## Hick

timmy... a male will survive and serve it's purpose under pretty poor conditions. A single cfl on 12/12 and enough nutrients to keep it alive untill it matures, is about all you need... IMO. 
  "Unless" it is something _special_ that you plan to keep long term, for a breeding project, then you might want to keep him in veg, and use cut's for pollen. BUT.. IMO, that would require one really "special" male cpecimen.


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## Timmyjg6

Thanks hick, one moor question.. Whats enough neuts?? Should i go half strength or 1/4 strength of recamended dosage and change my rez every 2 weeks? Thanks... Timmyjg6


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## Hick

I can't help you in the hydro dept. jimmy. I could advise you , but it would be nothing more than an educated guess. 
If it were in dirt, "I" would say 1/2 or 14 would be sufficient, "if" you're planning on getting rid of him, once your pollen is collected.


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## smokybear

I would go at 1/2 strength for the male. Should be fine. Great thread Trillions. Nice work my friend. I think this should be made a sticky. Just my thoughts. Take care and be safe.


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## goneindawind

sticky thiss and how long does pollen last b4 its no good?


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## trillions of atoms

pollen stored correctly can last around a yr successfully... always use a decantir as moisture will kill viable pollen in a heartbeat.


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## Hick

trillions of atoms said:
			
		

> pollen stored correctly can last around a yr successfully... always use a decantir as moisture will kill viable pollen in a heartbeat.



"decantir" = dessicant


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## ms4ms

great post trillions. I was looking for this thread. Maybe this can be put up with the other pages as a mandatory read, so _I(we) do not have to look for it._


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## ishnish

word. im new here.
& this is exactly what i was wondering about an hour ago..
but i didnt see when the prime time would be for a female to receive the pollen..??  week 2 to 4 of 12/12 maybe?
thanks a trillion


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## trillions of atoms

when the male drops pollen hes ready to bust on any lady with hairs....i wait several weeks into 12/12 when she really starts packing on pistols then ill brush the lower budsites. that gives the female plenty of time to finish the seeds by chop. i give a good full spectrum of nutrients when seeding plants, gives her all she needs to form the beans properly.

goodluck brother!!!!!!!!


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## Hick

Seeds require ,IMHO.. at least 4 weeks to mature properly. An 8 week flowering strain should be pollinated BY/before the 4th week of 12/12 in order to give them the oppurtunity to mature...."IMO"


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## ishnish

Sweet!!
i got access to some white widow pollen. im gonna hit the bottom half of my blueberry in a week or so and see what happens.
appreciate the wisdom from both of ya'z.


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## Aurora_Indicas_Dad

this is very interesting..so this is all it takes to cross a strain then huh..i guess well see alot more cross strains poppin up.i'll have to cross some of my strains when the time comes.thanks alot fellaz


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## trillions of atoms

remember- you shouldnt ever just cross two plants together unless you need the practice and have no way of getting any good genetics. you can cloud the genepool if you start crossing parantage that has defaults in there line- hermi runs rampid and soon to be mated plants need to be stressed to check and see if the gene is ever shown (hermi). growth patterns, vigor, disease resistance, yeild, smell, everything should be kept in mind when breeding.

we dont want to dilute the good genetics anymore than we have to.


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## BuddyLuv

But this can be used for just say future seed stock? I don't want to go through the hassle of getting beans anymore. I would rather just pollinate my nicest female WW with the nicest male in the bunch. Also has anyone had any success with the Blueberry X White Widow? Sounds like it would be a sweet potent herb.


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## trillions of atoms

yup, thats one of my favorite crosses in fact- 


if you come across a crazy big male thats superstrong and stinky and might become a monster real fast then keep some of his pollen. then when you find that just right female....dust a lower branch carefully- mark it- let her get good light on the side where the seeds are forming give her a good dose of nutes for several weeks and then when seeds are ready cut them off the plant and then flush as usual. letting the plant get overripe isnt a big deal as long as the seeds form properly....


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## 4u2sm0ke

thanks for the thread trillion..I am studying up on this stuff for the near future..how do you keep the pollen from infecting other branches after you brush on the one branch?   wont my fan blow the pollen everywhere?..I know to turn the fan off when doing the pollenating..but when do I turn it back on..and how does it not blow it everywhere..Im still a bit confused..


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## Hick

4u2smoke said:
			
		

> thanks for the thread trillion..I am studying up on this stuff for the near future..how do you keep the pollen from infecting other branches after you brush on the one branch?   wont my fan blow the pollen everywhere?..I know to turn the fan off when doing the pollenating..but when do I turn it back on..and how does it not blow it everywhere..Im still a bit confused..


  Slectively pollinate, allow 30 minutes or so with no fan circulation, 'spritz' with a light mist of water, wait 4-5 weeks.


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## Tater

Thanks for the tip hick.


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## stoneylove

Sorry to bring this one back up, but I just cant quite understand something. Hick, who I would clearly defer to, says to "spritz" the pollinated female 30 minutes after pollination occurs. But TOA, also much more skilled than I, says "water kills pollen" and uses rice to remove moisture. I'm sure one of you guys can explain this for me w/out too much science.


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## trillions of atoms

he means to spritz the rest of the plant and air with water to kill all if any floating pollen....once the areas are pollinated the water wont effect it after the deed is done so going crazy isnt needed but isnt asked either.....

bring it up as many times as you want- we are here to learn- all of us!


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## Hick

that's it.. just enough to prevent any residual pollen being blown around and accidentally getting other flowers. Not drenched or to runoff, just a very light misting.


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## BuddyLuv

I forgot to do this and now I have a couple seeds popping up in buds I did not swab. Only in the immediate area I pollinated. I quess I should have done my homework a little better.


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## WhiteWidower

trillions of atoms said:
			
		

> yup, thats one of my favorite crosses in fact-
> if you come across a crazy big male thats superstrong and stinky and might become a monster real fast then keep some of his pollen. then when you find that just right female....dust a lower branch carefully- mark it- let her get good light on the side where the seeds are forming give her a good dose of nutes for several weeks and then when seeds are ready cut them off the plant and then flush as usual. letting the plant get overripe isnt a big deal as long as the seeds form properly....


 
In the above situation, how often do you give nutrients and at what strength/proportions?


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## trillions of atoms

feed when she shows signs of hunger, water when the containers feel light and plants start to droop. (soil) there is no set feeding schedule. just feed a full spectrum with micronutreints to ensure she has what she needs. be sure not to overfeed for that is worse than a slight underfeeding... i prefer arreated compost teas with guano, 100 percent organic and if you dont use a ton of bird spit then you dont have to worry about burning.


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## WhiteWidower

trillions of atoms said:
			
		

> feed when she shows signs of hunger, water when the containers feel light and plants start to droop. (soil) there is no set feeding schedule. just feed a full spectrum with micronutreints to ensure she has what she needs. be sure not to overfeed for that is worse than a slight underfeeding... i prefer arreated compost teas with guano, 100 percent organic and if you dont use a ton of bird spit then you dont have to worry about burning.



A few questions / issues.

1.) How do I know what are signs of hunger?

2.) I don't have problem with watering.  I water every day without water-catching bowls at bottom and the plants drain great.  After they are done draining fully I place in those bowls and bring indoors for the nights MH light.  When I do this they are NEVER overwatered and grow very lush.

3.) Bird guano = burning???


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## trillions of atoms

when the plants foilage yellows evenly the plant is telling you it needs nitrogen, whatever your doing that makes the plants grow good...keep it up. keep an eye on PH, make sure they keep the same light cycle with no variations or light leaks if they have a night cycle. bat guano is good in lower doses- feed with only a little bit mixed into soil at first and then making a compost tea with a more diluted solution will show you if they like it ....or want more.

watch the plants- they will tell you everything without saying a word.


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## canibanol cannonball

so where does all the acid/stress/herm come into play? I jest..
reading all this feminization stuff i thought I should read this incredible thread again


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## trillions of atoms

this is natural breeding with males and females- but if you wish to purchase GA and make seeds- you can cut treated branches off and do it with this method. *note- do not smoke buds treated with GA*

once a true female is found after natural and unnatural stressing then the use of GA is acceptable. anything sprayed without trial growth could lead to a cloud in the genetic traits that are desireable in the parented seeds. rushing a breeding process will lead to weak, sickly and or hermi traits lower yeild etc... in the final product.


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## gsxr1000

how do you "stress" a feminized or even natural seeded plant to find the best genetics? Its not like LST type stress is it?


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## trillions of atoms

some people stress their plants by hardly watering them, heavy supercropping, light schedule changes and putting them through abnormal growing conditions <extreme heat, cold, wind>.

if you put the plants through hell when they are vegging and beginning flowering and they stay true to their sex and dont herm. you know you might actually have something worth keeping. 

but to stress a seeded plant.... i think you will have less a chance to see how well the genes are if the plant is almost finished living.


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## BlAzEmAsTeRkUsh42o

whats GA?


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