# Old seeds hard to germ what's the TECH



## 000StankDank000 (Sep 10, 2015)

I was given some very old seeds from a buddy who claims they are the old school skunk I have been looking for. The seeds are big in size and they are tiger stripped on some and others are pretty light.

I split the last 20 I had with my grow partner. I tryed 10 already with no luck All different methods. Straight to soil. The pre soak. Paper towel and heat.

I seen vadar OG use a hormone and have good success has anyone tried that?
What's the method you would use?


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## Rosebud (Sep 11, 2015)

I have no idea, but others will. That is very cool if you can get them to sprout... Love me some skunk. 

Hopefully others will know. If not I know peeps that will know. lol  I just mostly wanted to say nice to see you Stank!  Loved the pic you posted in OFC a few weeks ago. shocked me and made me laugh.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Sep 11, 2015)

Old seeds or seeds that have not been stored properly just may not germ.  Old seeds should always be soaked and you may want to rough up the outer shell some.  Unfortunately, they could just be too old and dried out to pop.  Zero for ten is not a good sign.  If you have soaked them I have no suggestions other than be leery of what you use on them--know what the "hormone" is and how it works if you use it.


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## RubyRed (Sep 11, 2015)

I like to use an emery board ( sand paper )  and scuff the tip of the seed to help aid the water ( when soaking ) to enter easier.


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## nIXne (Sep 13, 2015)

When germinating any seed the processes that take place are all pretty much the same.

1) Absorption of water.
2) Secretion of enzymes & hormones. 
3) Hydrolysis of stored foods into soluble forms. 
4) Translocation of soluble foods and hormones to the growing points.

These processes are either completely or partially influenced by factors such as Food Reserves, Hormone Supply, Water Supply, Oxygen Supply, & Temperature Level. 

We commonly think of germination as being equivalent to sprouting and while its true that the final test of a complete germination is the emergence of a growing root or leaf sprout from the seed. The process by which a dry, dormant embryo develops into new green growth begins well before we have visible evidence of the new root or leaf. 

The first step in the process of germination is the absorption of water by the seed. This is necessary to the internal changes in the seed that trigger growth. The uptake of water by the seed (called imbibition by botanists) depends on the content of the seed, the permeability of its outer layer, and the availability of the necessary amount of liquid. Seeds that contain a high percentage of protein imbibe more water than those that are high in starch. The fact that a seed has absorbed water is not, by the way, proof of its viability. Even dead seeds can imbibe water. 

As the seed swells with water, it develops considerable pressure, pressure that eventually ruptures the seed coat (which has already been softened by the surrounding moisture) and eases the eruption of the root. These are the physical effects of the seeds absorption of water. At the same time, internal metabolic changes are revving up life in the seed, changing its chemistry from neutral to running, you might say. As the stored insoluble foods are changing into soluble foods, ready to be used as a component of new tissue. 

Though in order for the starches and proteins in the endosperm to dissolve, they must often be changed into simpler forms - the starched into simple sugars like glucose and maltose and the proteins into free amino acids and amides. Then enzymes, required to split complex forms of stored food into simpler forms of usable food, are activated in response to the increased metabolism of the seed. It is important to note that even dormant seeds carry on respiration. They take in oxygen and release carbon dioxide, known as respiration. The rate of respiration is greatly increased in the germinating seed and both generates and supports the many interacting internal changes in the embryo. 

As the enzymes then direct the breakdown of certain useful stored foods. Hormones, also present in the endosperm & cotyledons, control both the transportation of newly soluble foods to different parts of the seed. As well as the building up of new compounds from the components of those that have been broken down into simpler forms by the enzymes. 

The product of all this increased activity within the seed is new tissue, originating at growing points in the root tip, the stem, the bud, and the cotyledons. This new tissue is formed in two ways: cells already present in the seed grow longer, and cells divide to produce new cells, which then elongate. 

When utilizing seeds that are small, shriveled, immature or old, the food reserves contained in that seeds endosperm may be in short supply. Making it difficult for the enzymes to perform their function in creating enough food energy for the young seedling. In extreme cases it may not have sufficient food energy to push its radicle very far into the soil or its plumule above the surface of the soil. 

So when looking to get the best possible results when sprouting seeds that are either just purchased or years old. You want to use methods that will drive the function of those enzymes as far as possible! This in turn supplies the hormones with more food to work with in creating the emerging seedling. Research has shown that fulvic acid improves enzymatic reactions in cells and produces maximum stimulation of enzyme development. The fulvic acid molecule often contains within its structure coenzymes and important factors which the cells may utilize in stimulating the manufacturing of enzyme reactions and formation. Fulvic acid is also able to penetrate cell membranes and even the membranes of organelles like mitochondria.  

An enzyme is a catalyst that does not enter into a reaction but speeds up or causes a reaction to take place. Fulvic Acid is the catalyst for catalysts when it comes to enzymatic function. There are numerous benefits that Fulvic Acid possesses that would require pages and pages to go over and the post is already getting pretty lengthy. So I will just say it is amazing stuff and you definitely want to use it! 

Just not any random kind of fulvic acid though, you want to order the Ful-Power Fulvic Acid offered by this company here and the reasoning is in their extraction method and source, thus, the strength and purity:

http://www.bioag.com/home.html

There is a great price per quart from here:

http://buildasoil.com/collections/frontpage/products/bioag-ful-power

You can use this product for seedlings and clones as well as a great foliar spray through veg! Also use as a drench all the way through the grow for amazing benefits to the overall health of the soil. My way of sprouting seeds is as follows:

1) Get some individual plastic shot glasses from the dollar store. As well as a seedling heating mat with a temperature controller. 
2) Take your fulvic acid and add 7tsp's per 1gal of water. Fill a shot glass slightly over half way for each seed you plan on germinating. Make sure the water used has been bubbled for a while prior to use as the dissolved o2 present in the water is crucial!
3) Now that your shot glasses have been filled, place them on the seedling mat and set the temperature to 75 degrees. 
4) Once you are ready, take your seeds and drop them in the solution. Let them soak for 24 hours before adding them to the soil to allow them to hydrate and crack. 
5) I will poke a small hole in the soil with the end of a kabob skewer, not to deep, just enough so you can cover the seed. Now pour your shot glass containing the seed and Fulvic Acid solution into your soil. 
6) Using the same kabob skewer, carefully move the seedling into place and cover up with soil loosely.
7) Place the seedling mat underneath the still germinating seedlings, now in soil, and continue with the 75 degree heat until you see the seedling break the surface. 

The soil mix you are planting into is also very important, as explained above, everything is 100% a product of enzymatic function and this includes once germination has been taken to the soil. Vermicompost is extremely rich in the enzymes that facilitate the development of the plant from cracked seed to actual seedling. 

Really hope this helps man! If you are still having issues once you plant the seeds, but are getting them to crack, let me know and I will share my seedling mix with you as well. Hope all is well with you and yours, happy growing!


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## Rosebud (Sep 13, 2015)

Hi Stank... best wishes.


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## 000StankDank000 (Sep 14, 2015)

Well they don't wanna germ .
So an old breeder at another forum talks about cracking them open and taking the " embryo" and placing that in the soil so I did.


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## 000StankDank000 (Sep 15, 2015)

So I " birth" 3 seeds very sterile and planted in moist promix .

Let's see


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## Rosebud (Sep 15, 2015)

seed mojo.


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## 000StankDank000 (Sep 23, 2015)

Nothing ;(


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## yarddog (Sep 23, 2015)

Bummer.  I know you was hoping for the best.


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## Rosebud (Sep 23, 2015)

That's too bad Stank..


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