# My first plant(2)



## The Silver Bullet Special (Aug 31, 2012)

I had deleted my other thread because my photo had geotagged for some reason and decided to take it down. 

So heres my remake of it(I should have just taken down the picture but wasnt thinking lol)

I have two types of plants goin right now both are really unknown until I finish my grow room construction. I recieved a few seeds that are said to be a thai strain from a relative's friend that went to nam and has been growing it for years; and the other is said to be a blueberry strain. 

My original plans were just to practice germingating them and having then just be outside but when I seen the growth almost completely stop and stretch was crazy I set up 4 of those 23W 1600 lumen bulbs till I get my T5 lights in going 24/7. They all broke surface about August 03. The first picture is the one of the "thai".

This morning when I woke up I had a nice suprise that the "thai" is a female! The blueberry is still unknown but doing nice and strong.


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## Dan K. Liberty (Aug 31, 2012)

hey SBS, heads up . . . if you indeed do have a thai and a blueberry, these would be very conducive to a hybrid cross having the most dynamic outcome . . . with the thai giving extreme sativa traits and the blueberry contributing the extreme indica traits . . . very interesting !! :joint:


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 1, 2012)

Yes if this turns out to be thai-stik like my family member told me it was (which I believe because I met the guy that grows this stuff and its pretty killer) so I'll be keeping a clone around of this to cross and back cross and get a stock up of this . I'm going to be getting my T5 lights sometime next week hopefully and maybe my HPS light and a fan. I think this will turn into my grow journal for these even though I originally wasnt going to.


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## 4u2sm0ke (Sep 1, 2012)

> my photo had geotagged for some reason




what is this????....a little geo metro ran into you thread:giggle:


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 1, 2012)

LOL yeah and big brother can find out where and what's goin on too >.<....Geotagging is where the android phones and iphones will tag on your global coordinates... latitude, longitude, and altitude to the photo data. It can be turned off, I will normally use another camera but it was dead at the moment and forgot to shut it off on my phone lol.


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## 4u2sm0ke (Sep 1, 2012)

take care and be safe


:48:


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 11, 2012)

Well here is an update as of today! Roughly 37 days from breaking ground. The first pic is my "Blueberry" bagseed, the other two pics are of the same plant that is said to be a Thai, I'm not sure if it is since it's leaves are so fat.

Still don't know the sex of the Blueberry one but the Thai is definitely a girl.


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## HemperFi (Sep 11, 2012)

They look real nice -- good job. I have a "Blue Widow" seedling which is a Blueberry x White Widow. I hope it looks as nice as yours in a month. DinaFem says it's a 50/50 indica/sativa and is supposed to be real high in THC -- I'm excited.

Peace


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 11, 2012)

Thanks! Yeah I seen the Blue Widow when I was looking for seeds to order it looked interesting but I decided to try it out next time. I'm really suprised that the plants are doing this good as they are under 4 of those 23W 1600 Lumen cfl bulbs until my light comes in the mail this week (T5 20k lumen fixture). 

Good Luck on your Blue Widow grow as well hopefully it turns out as good as the description claims!


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## Dan K. Liberty (Sep 11, 2012)

hey SBS :stoned: is there any chance you got your plants mixed up at birth ??  first pic looks more like a thai and the other looks more like a blueberry


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 11, 2012)

Thanks easy! I'm also loving the smell she puts off even though it's not strong I accidentally broke a leaf off and man did that stem out off a smell.

Dan, You know, I've been wondering that since the leaves became more developed  ... I guess thats what I get when I mark things by sticking a tooth pick in the dirt instead of writing labels on them lol :stoned: . I took a clipping off the "Blue Berry" one  that is by no means the right length to be a clone but I thought I'd try it anyways. I may have to go visit my old friend that gifted me this "thai" seed and check his plants out and compare to see if I goofed up. He should know he's been growin it since he came back from nam.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 11, 2012)

Here is the sad excuse of my attempting to clone LOL so far it hasnt wilted yet. I took this clipping just to cut down on the height. I thought to myself "why just throw it away I'll just try to clone it" so I don't care if it doesnt make it. It's only about a 2-3inch clipping. The light was only on it to give me a better picture but the clone sits just to the side out of the strong light really.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 12, 2012)

Well I just thought I would share with everyone my new lights I got in the mail today Only half of the fixture is lit up because a bulb was broken when I recieved it.


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## Dan K. Liberty (Sep 13, 2012)

seems like ive seen one of them hanging around over here, too . . . :cool2:


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 13, 2012)

I'm very happy with this light and only half of the lights are on for it (broken bulb replacement is on it's way). The plants seems to love it too WAY better than those junk 23W 1600 lumen cfl's that werent even in the right spectrum. I'm glad I didnt buy two of them like my original plans were. I may add one later down the road though if I increase plant count.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Sep 13, 2012)

Glad you are happy with your T5.  I'll bet that you start to see a lot closer internodal spacing.  I have a four bulb fixture in a 2 x 4 space and am a little underlit with that.  Every so often I think about adding a 2 tube fixture to the other one, but I get such nice tight growth with what I have that I don't see a need to spend the extra money and electricity.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 13, 2012)

Yeah thanks for the link to them THG. Now I just need two more things (once the fertilizer ban is over in my area) to make the super soil mix for my future plants, get the HPS components and the smaller stuff like hygrometers, ph meter, and a timer. Lookin at about another $650 worth of stuff  before I start those better genetics.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 15, 2012)

Well I'm happy to announce that FINALLY my biggest "Blueberry" (which is probably the Thai and I labeled wrong :stoned: ) showed her sex she was shy until I put her in the new light and shes about 8 weeks from breaking ground so it may have just been the age. 

While I was taking pics, I thought I'd take pics of the "Thai" ( its got indica leaning leaves so I'm not exactly sure what I have anymore). I was wondering if anyone has had their plant have this abundance of preflowers before.

First picture is the first female preflower I've seen on this "blueberry" a little hard to see in the pic but I believe its what I'm lookin for. The others are that Indica "thai" plant that looks like shes begging to bud out.

I'm just going to refer to my plants as the Sativa and Indica instead of calling them what they arent; So I don't confuse people that don't exactly know what genetics would be for that strain.


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## sMACkaddict (Sep 15, 2012)

Are you doin 12/12 yet?  

First pic is very unclear, tough call.  You cant see a calyx or a distinct white fuzziness. 

The pistils in the other two photos are odd because some of them are brown/orange already. That, i thought, only happened when the calyx gets fertilized or it starts to die/riPen.  You or anyone know why thats happenin?


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 15, 2012)

I noticed that too, no idea on that one sMACK there isnt a male around so there sholdnt be a pollination. I have to keep these in veg until I get my HPS and ventillation. Hopefully that hair I noticed on the first pic develops more to officilly confirm it.

Also how often do you guys feed your plants in soil. I've been feeding 1/4th strength gh3 part nutes about every other watering or every two waterings.


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## sMACkaddict (Sep 15, 2012)

can you see a tulip shaped pod at the base of the pistil(hair)?  There should be 2 hairs, and they should be coming out of the pod... you should know exactly what you are looking for since you have calyxes on your other plants.

cheers on the triplets!

sMACk


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## The Hemp Goddess (Sep 16, 2012)

Well, that first pic looks really girlie to me.  I can see the 2 white hairs quite clearly.  Watch out for hermies though.


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## Dan K. Liberty (Sep 16, 2012)

hey SBS :ciao: . . . I can't tell what you have circled there in the first pic, but the second and third look very familiar . . . that plant looks exactly like a couple of my clones . . . the ones that I cut from plants when they were already two weeks into flowering . . . it's reverting back to a vegetative growth pattern . . . see, it's got three-finger leaves below and now single-finger leaves at the top, and every little node keeps popping out a calyx . . . no worries about the pistils drying up, that looks perfectly normal for a revegging clone :cool2:

jm2c :48:


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 16, 2012)

That's the weird thing. It's been in 24/0 80% of it's life from seed, though, it has finally been put under the right amount of light and color spectrum.

I LST'd it because it wasn't topped like the other one was. Any Idea on why the leaves are still 3 finger leaves? The sativa one has 9 finger leaves all over the place.

Hemp, can a plant hermie during veg?


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## sMACkaddict (Sep 16, 2012)

The Hemp Goddess said:
			
		

> Well, that first pic looks really girlie to me.  I can see the 2 white hairs quite clearly.  Watch out for hermies though.



you using binocs or something?  those might as well be stipules, you can't see a calyx at the base, which would obviously be a dead giveaway.

Bullet-
when was the plant not under 24hr light cycle?  

I think a plant can herm at any point that it could display sexual maturity or preflowers.

sMACk


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 16, 2012)

There is a calyx at the bottom you just cant see it in the picture. They just formed yesterday and are getting  little bigger.

I havent spotted any "nanners" on any of the plants yet. 

The plant was started as a seedling outside and grew it's first two sets of leaves outside under 13hrs of light so probably the first week or two. I'll try to get a better picture of it later this evening.


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## sMACkaddict (Sep 16, 2012)

hmmm well that definitely should not cause it to start to flower or need to reveg... strange... 

any ideas Dan K or Hemp?

maybe someone is growin near you and you dont even know it and they pollinated your plant some how!! haha not likely but all I can think of!

sMACk


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 16, 2012)

Theres a few questionable houses on my street that i only see people at once every 3other days or so only for a few hours their yard is usually unkept may just be lazy people or a foreclosed home can a preflower produce a seed? I'm still unsure of the third plant though i may be seeing the calyx (could just be very new growth too ). It's the runt of the three so i havent put a pic up of it yet i may not even keep it around since the other two are going to have nearly a 2.5-3month veg before i get the equip to flower them.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 17, 2012)

Oh another question. Since this veg cycle will be extremely long (about another month) do you think my plant will get root bound in a 3 gallon pot? I'm thinking about only keeping around the two biggest plants out of the 3 and flowering them in the room. I would be able to fit two 5 gallon buckets in my space I'm not sure about 3.


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## growgreen420 (Sep 17, 2012)

I can't wait until mine start showing their sex like that!  Maybe they will soon with the new lights.  Looks good SBS!  Hope u get everything cleared up.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 17, 2012)

Thanks gg420 hopefully I get my bulb in the mail soon. I;m not sure if all plants will bust out preflowers like the one in the pictures as my sativa plant is showing little tiny ones but they're there. I'm hoping I will be able to get the electrician in to run a dedicated circuit to the closet that I will flower in "as a computer work area" and get all the equip in less than a month.


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## sMACkaddict (Sep 17, 2012)

if you think your gonna be vegging 2.5 to 3 months, is lighting going to be an issue?  How well will that lighting sustain a large plant(2 - 3ft i'd imagine)?  I have no idea, just a consideration.

For pot size... I think 3 gal will probably be tight but maybe ok.  I was just reading through a jorge cervantes book, marijuana horticulture i think its called, and it said mininum pot size for a 2-3 month old plant is 3gal and for 3-8 months its 5 gal.  Just something to also take into consideration...

sMACk


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 17, 2012)

These plants were besically a trial for germination that actually turned into something, so if the light doesnt help the plant in that time then nothing lossed only gained in experience. These arent exact known genetics I'm saving those for when I get my super soil made.

 I will hopefully be ready to flower in a month, just depends on how fast I can get my equip and some elecrtical stuff run in the house. I'm sure it will be reaching the limits of the light's capabilities, but I wonder how do it'll do in flower (the biggest bushed out one). Maybe I can LST the 4 main branches it has to help the height a little more.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 19, 2012)

I was wondering today..do you think that indica plant may have some ruderalis genes in it since it really does look like it's budding but it's under 24/0. The amount of preflowers compared to what I've seen on every other grow on here and my other female is just baffling. Also has anyone seen their main stem swell like this after bending over. I don't think it's an embolism.


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## Dan K. Liberty (Sep 19, 2012)

yeah, those are not just single-calyx preflowers, SBS . . . they are clustering . . . I think maybe you're thinkin rudy right

yes, the single-calyx preflowers often mature to become fully fertile . . . and they will often produce viable seeds also

as for the swelled up branch, I really never seen a plant do that . . . maybe you bent her a bit too much and cut off the internal plumbing so that she had to expand and reroute the passageways

if I was gonna veg those another month, I would go to a 5 gal. pot :cool2:

jm2c :48:


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## tastyness (Sep 19, 2012)

*Dan K.*
I have tons of those little flowers on my plants.  And down at the base and near where I took clones.  Especially the two autos.  

What are you saying is significant about them clustering?

If I'm trying to reveg a plant I'll want to make sure I leave all those little ones when I harvest right?  I think it was *Rosebud* that had a thread about that.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 19, 2012)

I have no clue what to do with this plant thats busting out those tiny "buds" it smells awesome and very skunky for the amount of stuff on it.


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## Dan K. Liberty (Sep 19, 2012)

hmmm . . . keep it under 24/0 . . . and if it flowers to maturity, dry it and smoke it


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## Hushpuppy (Sep 19, 2012)

I think you have an auto that has gone feral. I would just let her keep on rockin. She will most likely swell and finish ahead of the others. Just keep her fed good and see what happens.


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## sMACkaddict (Sep 27, 2012)

whats the word hummingbird


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## Dan K. Liberty (Sep 28, 2012)

if the plant has been exposed to both a flowering and veg cycle lighting at any point in it's life, it may become confused about what it's supposed to be doing and exhibit characteristics of both growth patterns simultaneously for awhile . . . it may be possible that it never fully "straightens out"


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 29, 2012)

I've been down with a hard drive failure for a while and had to find my win 7 disk to do an install on the new HDD. 

Anyways I've had somewhat of a problem with my plants. On the bigger sativa it looks like there's heat stress but in the middle leaves of the plant. They started getting this way after I noticed a N deficiency and I fed 3/4th strength nutes and it recovered in about 16hrs. Then the next day I noticed this burn look, the rest of the leaves show no sign of nute burn at all.

On the Indica plant I'm wondering why the leaves havent started popping more "fingers" out the most I've found is three and then some are just single leaves. It's like this scattered through out the plant not sure why; also there seems to be some weird spotting that looks like a pest eating away at the plant but it hasnt spread to the other plant, and I havent found any actual bugs in the plant.

The first picture is what the sativa plant's inner leaves are doing. The last two is the indica plant.

The reflective board stuff is just to help the floor stay clean and I put the extra I had against the wall just for getting it out of the way.


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## sMACkaddict (Sep 30, 2012)

> 4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.



*possibility?

OR maybe you added too much N?*



> 6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or
> insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.



good luck!  where da pros at?
sMACk


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## The Hemp Goddess (Sep 30, 2012)

The Silver Bullet Special said:
			
		

> The reflective board stuff is just to help the floor stay clean and I put the extra I had against the wall just for getting it out of the way.



You do not want reflective material on the floor of your grow space.  It is detrimental to plant growth to receive light from underneath.  It confuses the plant as in nature, the underside of leaves do not receive light.  

Keep in mind that different plants have different feeding requirements.  Mandala strains cannot tolerate as high a ppm as many other strains, however I have found they tend to uptake more water/nute solution than the strains that require a higher ppm.  This can be one of the problems with running multiple strains--you can have multiple nutrient requirements.


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## tastyness (Sep 30, 2012)

*THG-*
What about the reflective floor of tents?  I know mine has shiny on the floor.  I've never seen anyone cover it up.

Curious.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Sep 30, 2012)

So what I have is because too much nutes? And what about the weird leaf numbers from the indica leaning plant; any clue on that one? I read that it may be from a plant revegging? 

Tasty, that's the reason why I thought it wouldnt hurt the plants with the reflective foam board but i'll get a drop cloth or some sheet plastic to put down.


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## sMACkaddict (Oct 1, 2012)

*so you are still veggin right?  When you gonna flip em?*


sMACk


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Oct 1, 2012)

I'm gonna flip them when I get my hps and ventillation set up... financial problems have come up recently and I havent been able to get the stuff as fast as I had hoped... these plants are going to be huge at harvest if they stay alive.... I'm hoping to have everything set up in 2-3 weeks =/


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## growgreen420 (Oct 1, 2012)

I plan to veg for another week or 2 and my plants are over 3 feet tall now lol.  Too me that is pretty big.  Probably as big as yours.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Oct 1, 2012)

My plants are probably 2-2.5 ft; from what I've read plants can double or tripple in size from stretch in flower? Im hoping that's wrong house or i'll have to do some major tying down. That of course is strain dependent how mich stretch you get in flower.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Oct 2, 2012)

Since I've been putting off buying a ph meter until I can get that put in with my HPS order; I put 2 tablespoons of lime on top of the soil to help with PH problems if there would be any... is that enough to help balance it? 

What ph pen do you guys recommend to get and about how much was it? I've seen some anywhere from $40-$70 but no clue on the quality. Should I also buy calibration fluid?

Also after I have mixed together my nutes in a one gallon jug fo spring water from the store; how long should I let the water sit? I have been just the 3 parts over a 15 minute period(5 minute wait in between each part micro,then grow, then bloom) then shaking the gallon jug up and feeding them. So far my feeding strength has been 1/2teaspoon of each per gallon.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Oct 2, 2012)

At the size your plants are, I would be giving them 2t micro, 3t grow, and 1t bloom per gallon of water.  When you get to flowering, it will be 1t grow and 3t bloom.  I always allow the nutes to sit for 12-24 hours before I use them to give the nutes time to buffer the water.

You will need calibration fluids with your pH meter.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Oct 2, 2012)

Hmm... so then my problem is either a lockout or not enough nutes :confused2: ,though, the leaves look more burnt than anything. I'm guessing since I dont really let the nutes buffer for any time at all. The leaves haven't gotten any worse since I uploaded those pics I have just been watering.

Here is just a pic out of the closet just for an update. This is my favorite plant out of the three I have. The other sativa has pretty much stopped growing anything at all, which I'm guessing it's because the nute levels have been just enough to keep it alive.

Also how often should I feed I know it depends on the plant but should I wait to see growth slow down before feeding; or just make it a regular schedule like water twice then feed, maybe every other watering?


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## sMACkaddict (Oct 2, 2012)

definitely a schedule... start light and work your way up bit by bit


sMACk


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Oct 11, 2012)

Okay so I upped the nutes, been feeding every two waterings. I'm watering every other day. Heres a new little deficiency that I'm thinking cal/mag deficiency? What do you guys think? If so how much per gal should I add and would I let this sit and buffer like the other nutes?

At this point in time I really have no clue when I'm going to be able to flower these, good thing they're only bag seeds and good practice :icon_smile:


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Oct 11, 2012)

Oh also another question... When I watered my plants tonight I've noticed the water takes increasingly longer to seep down into the soil and it seems like there are roots just everywhere in the post for the small amount of dirt the water moves away from the roots. I wonder if I should transplant now or keep them in 3 gal. 

Is the slow water drainage a sign of starting to be root bound or just from the soil compacting over time?


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## sMACkaddict (Oct 12, 2012)

its hard to tell from the sideways closeups, but it looks like them getting rootbound is a good possibility...


sMACk


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## Hushpuppy (Oct 12, 2012)

It looks like you are having multiple problems there. Some leaf tip burning, which would appear to be too much nute, then some necrosis along the leaf margins could be a little magnesium, potassium or manganese deficiency. You also said that they seem to have stopped growing. More often than not when you get multiple issues like this (which yours aren not too bad yet) it means that you are having PH out of proper alignment for full nute uptake. When the PH is off, it will make all kinds of things happen. Also, nutrient toxicity can cause the wacky multi-symptom issues, *but I don't think that is what you have as you have been under feeding them and haven't been able to check PH.* I fully believe Your problem is all linked to PH and feeding level.

With any of my plants, when I start them out at seedling, they get no nutes until I see the little seed leaves(cotyledons) yellowing and/or the regular leaves start yellowing. Then I introduce a light feeding of 200-300ppm on a TDS meter. After a week, I increase the nutrients to 300-500ppm depending on the growth of the plants.(if they take off growing, increase nutes more). I watch the plants to see how they are growing. If it is vigorous growth then I continue to increase the nutes by 200-300ppm each week until I get to about 600-900ppm depending on the plant strain or if I start seeing nute burn. Some plant strains are absolute nute hogs like my BBP 

For anyone reading this who is considering growing and not sure about going soil(organic nutrients) or chemical nutrients(soil, soilless, or hydro) *You have to get a quality PH meter and TDS meter for growing with chemical nutrients or you will have problems*. If you don't have the money for these meters then you should stay with organic soil as you don't need the meters for that style. 

I'm not ragging on you SBS, that is just for any nubies look to learn from your mistakes.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Oct 12, 2012)

I've got the money for them, I was just putting that off until I could order my HPS and everything else I need. What brands for PH and TDS meter do you recommend? 

I also picked up two 5 gallon buckets, some potting soil, and perlite for drainage,from home depot. I Drilled 3/4th inch holes for drainage 5 holes in the bottom and 4 holes in the side. Will that be enough for good drainage.

When transplanting do I let the root ball get sorta dry so it stays together or should it be freshly watered before transplant?

The leaf burning at the tips was because I accidentally let the plants grow up to the bulbs and didnt get the light raised fast enough lol. I'll throw up some full plant pics tonight.


I also have lime would I still need to PH adjust the water if I added lime to the soil, and how much lime pr 5 gallon bucket do you think?


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## tastyness (Oct 12, 2012)

I just got my bluelab combo meter for a great price (170.00) - and LOVE, LOVE it.  
Yesterday was my first time using it to feed and it cut my time in half and I feel confident for the first time that they got what I intended.  
My cheap pen style needed calibration every time and by halfway through grow was totally unreliable.  PITA.  
If you want link to vendor- PM me.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Oct 13, 2012)

PM sent Tasty, thanks! I will be transplanting into 5 gal buckets tomorrow. Any advice on how much perlite to add into the soil when amending it? (This isnt my super soil I plan on making sometime soon for the other better genetics.

How are you liking your organic grow Hemp? Is it doing just as well as your hydro setups?


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## Hushpuppy (Oct 13, 2012)

The Bluelab pens are my favorite so far. I don't really measure my pearlite but I suspect it works out to between 2parts and 3parts soil to 1part pearlite. You don't have to be precise but I think more is better than less to prevent the soil from compacting and allow good air penetration. 

Not sure on how much lime, but to your question, the lime will buffer the soil as long as the PH of the water isn't way off (5.8 is optimal, water more than .5 either way could be an issue).


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Oct 13, 2012)

Transplanted into ffof to see if i can buy some time to get that meter and bring the plants back to life. I did one cup soil 2/3rds cup of perlite when I was measuring things out with a solocup lol. I got a flu shot today so I'm not feelin too good right now ill have pics up in the morning.


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## Hushpuppy (Oct 14, 2012)

That sounds like a little too much but if it looks ok then it probably is. Like I said, I would rather have too much than too little. If you are in FF and intend to stay organic then get some ZHO or Mycho and some mollasses and mix in with the soil to get them hopping. 

Ya know they say that the flu shot is dead virus that won't make ya sick, but everyone I hear that takes it gets at least some sick after getting the shot. When I joined the Army, they shot us up with everything and I stayed sick for 3 months(all the way through basic and AIT). I don't think I got sick again after that for about 3-4 years.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Oct 14, 2012)

Wow that crazy, none of my friend have said anything about getting sick from their shots when joining the army or airforce. The paper  I got that had the lot number and stuff on the flu shot I got said it was the live virus, thought I always thought it was the dead virus too... 

I seem to have misplaced my camera lol, hopefully in the mornin I'll get pics up. The plants seem to like the transplant, One of the two was root bound 3/4th wat to the top (not solid solid roots but pretty packed).


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## The Hemp Goddess (Oct 15, 2012)

The Silver Bullet Special said:
			
		

> PM sent Tasty, thanks! I will be transplanting into 5 gal buckets tomorrow. Any advice on how much perlite to add into the soil when amending it? (This isnt my super soil I plan on making sometime soon for the other better genetics.
> 
> How are you liking your organic grow Hemp? Is it doing just as well as your hydro setups?



I'm going back to hydro for the winter.  My organic did not do nearly as well as my hydro grows.  I will try again next spring.  It is hard to do dirt and organics with a bunch of snow and cold.

http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/showthread.php?p=799182#post799182


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Oct 16, 2012)

If I like the way this soil will produce for me when I get it all mixed up and cooked it may be the way to go for me for a while. We see about one-two frosts a year the rest of the time its far above freezing. 

I have GH 3 part nutes I will be using, by the time this ffof runs out of nutes I'll have a ph/tds meter and some ph +/- to keep things regulated better than just hoping it's coming out right lol.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Oct 16, 2012)

The Silver Bullet Special said:
			
		

> Transplanted into ffof to see if i can buy some time to get that meter and bring the plants back to life. I did one cup soil 2/3rds cup of perlite when I was measuring things out with a solocup lol. I got a flu shot today so I'm not feelin too good right now ill have pics up in the morning.



Way way too much perlite, IMO.  I would not put more than about 20% perlite into the soil.  Perlite is mostly to break up clayey, dense soil and aid in drainage.  It should not be a major soil component--it does nothing to enhance the soil or feed the plants.

Microbes and molasses won't be beneficial if you are running chem nutes.  Wait until you are running an organic soil.  Chemical nutrients, like GH 3 part, kill soil microbes.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Oct 18, 2012)

Thanks for the perlite advice, I was kind of going off of what I've seen on here and some people's mixes looked like they had alot more. If I have to use it again I'll keep it in mind. With the organic soil I have the rice hulls for that; maybe I'll need perlite for that too? 

I transplanted into the ffof just because it was all I had and had to use the rest anyways. I'm hoping it will still do alright even though I've been feeding with gh3 part while it was in the 3 gallon pots.

Here is an updated pic of the two plants I have. The third plant I had was taken out because I ran out of space and it was the smallest of the three.I have 5 drainage holes in the bottom and 4 in the sides.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Oct 30, 2012)

It's finally cooled off enough here for me to get up in the attic and run 12/3 wire for my lights and fans on a 20A breaker. With the current wiring in my house I feel safer to just run another dedicated circuit for the closet. Then it's back to ordering all the equip for flowering... I've said this before but hopefully it'll be up and going in three weeks. I've landed another job and finances are better.


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## OldDaddyFedder (Oct 30, 2012)

The Silver Bullet Special said:
			
		

> It's finally cooled off enough here for me to get up in the attic and run 12/3 wire for my lights and fans on a 20A breaker. With the current wiring in my house I feel safer to just run another dedicated circuit for the closet. Then it's back to ordering all the equip for flowering... I've said this before but hopefully it'll be up and going in three weeks. I've landed another job and finances are better.


 

Hear ya there,
I just got moved and the new house had newer wire but VERY OLD fuse box-got the box changed by electrician. He'll be coming back to help me set up a line for lights and fans.want to do things right.
Keep it green!!!

:48:

ODF


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Nov 2, 2012)

Yeha out fuse box is OLDDDDD finding the breakers with the different color switches may be hard to find I guess (from what I was told I havent looked around yet). 

I am finally able to order a ph/tds meter. If someone could tell me a model to get from bluelab that'd be great, I'm not sure if the meters come in a single pen for ph and tds or it would come in a kit of two.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Nov 14, 2012)

Well I'm down to just one plant in the room (The plant with auto traits I'll post pics up tonight or tomorrow) The other one came down because it was getting too big, and I didnt want to chop it all down to height. I figured I would have had the flowering room set up about a month ago. It's finally almost all built and ready for better genetics.

This plant I have now has been under 24/0 light And is starting to frost up it's leaves. Since this is the only plant I've been using my T5 for 12/12, I know I'm using the wrong spectrum but ehh this plant is just for practice lol. We'll see how it turns out in the next few weeks.


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## Hushpuppy (Nov 14, 2012)

The Bluelab testers come in both combo units and in individual test pens. I would say to get just the TDS and PH pens unless you plan on getting considerably bigger or just like having an all-in-one setup. I personally am a little afraid to trust equipment that "does everything". In my experience, stuff that is made to do everything does nothing well, while those things that are specialized can only do a few things at most but do them very well. 

Here is a good deal on the 2 pens: hxxp://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/bluelab-ppm-pen-p-3660.html

hxxp://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/bluelab-ph-pen-p-3659.html

I order a lot of stuff from these guys and get solid service and quality stuff


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Nov 17, 2012)

Sweet thanks, I got my pens in the mail today... didnt remember to get calibration fluid... and do I need to keep the sponge wet on the end cap of the ph meter?


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## Hushpuppy (Nov 18, 2012)

Absolutely! It is critical to the proper operation to keep the sponge wet. I use the 4.01 calibration fluid for storage solution to keep in the cap, but if you didn't get the cal fluid then use clean water that you have adjusted to 4.0 (They say not to use RO or bottled water but if you adjust the PH of some bottled water it should be fine). It is very important to not let the bulb on the probe dry out. If it does, it will fail to read right. If you forget to put the cap on for several hours or over night then place it in a small cup of 4.0 water for 24hrs and it should be ok. if it gets left dry for several days or more it can cause the permenant failure of the bulb.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Nov 18, 2012)

Ive been watering with gallon spring water... but I'm gonna try to make some stuff jsut to get my by again till I can order some cal fluid. I'm gonna post up pics here in a few minutes. Again I'm down to one plant.

Another question... this PH up/down stuff... how strong is it? How exactly should I go about using this stuff?  I dont know if I have to wait a certain amount of time before I check ph again and how much to use.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Nov 18, 2012)

Heres some pics of it, This is only going to be under the T5 since I'm still without an hps. This plant has seemed to have been flowering since  mid September. It's my only one left out of three, the so called thai, thats not really a sativa. I'm feeding with GH3 part 1tb micro&grow and 3tb bloom per gal at 890ppm.


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## Hushpuppy (Nov 18, 2012)

The PH adjuster fluids are very potent so don't spill any on you and not wash it off or either one will burn you. With the GH nutes, you have to mix your nutes and then let them sit for 24hrs before checking and adjusting or you will be chasing the PH all over the place. What I do with mine is mix up in a 5gal bucket(exactly 18liters of water each time) then I use an eye dropper that has ml measure on the side of it. I typically will use no more than 5ml of adjuster at a time(unless it is something that I have learned that takes 15-20ml to adjust to what I need). I don't use the GH line, but it is prebuffered for PH so that is why you have to let it sit. Then after adjusting the PH, you will have to let it sit again for at least 6-12hrs before checking again and making final adjustments. If you have any specific questions about this, THG uses the GH line and can tell you the specifics of it. 

BTW, the plant looks real good for not having an HPS over it. The buds will probably end up a bit airy but should be good regardless


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Nov 19, 2012)

Thanks I'm hoping to have a hps and ventillation in next weekand then throw this plant under the hps and start up some satori and a new journal for that.... im still trying to wrap my head around cloning there are soo many methods not sure what to choose..


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## Hushpuppy (Nov 20, 2012)

Yeah, there are several. In my opinion the most reliable and easiest is the bubble-ponics cloner. However, for you being in soil, I would say to get one of the rapid rooter plug kits. Here is a link to Advanced Nutrients' rooting plugs that they sell. I bought 1 of these and cut it down to several smaller container batches so that I could use only 6 at a time.  hxxp://www.advancednutrients.com/hydroponics/products/root_shooters/root_shooters_product_information.php

I put them in a plastic tote with about 2" of hydroton under them for good drainage. They worked very well 100% for me for cuttings. I am going to use them from now on for germing seeds as I now use the bubble cloner for cuttings. There are a couple different brands of these that are sold by different places but they are basically the same things. Just don't get the jiffy plugs as they are tricky to use.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Nov 25, 2012)

How do you store your RRs the ones I bought molded... also when I calibrate my meter the label tells me to put it in ph7 water and wait for a steady reading then hold calibrate, after that I drop it in the ph4 stuff and do the same thing... how long does it typically take to give you a steady readout. My meter when I press and hold CAL it just says ER on it.

I'm off work tomorrow so I'll throw up some pics of how the flowering is coming along when the lights click on.


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## Hushpuppy (Nov 25, 2012)

That sucks that the rooters molded. I just leave mine under the light until they dry out completely then I just stick them in a tote with a lid on it.

What I do is get the 2 cups that came with my kit and put the PH cal fluiuds in each one. then I take out my pen and rinse it in fresh water(which I do before and after every use) then stick it in the PH7 and swish it around a bit before turning it on(as I have found that helps it settle faster), then I press and hold the calibrate button for a few seconds until it switches over to calibrate mode. When it does its thing I take it out of the solution and shake it off then stick it in the PH4 solution and do the same thing again. When its done I turn it off and rinse it off then put it back in its cap. 

If yours fails to calibrate then you will need to contact the place you got it from and tell them as that means that the probe has failed. If it sat dry in a store for a long period before you bought it, that will kill the probe.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Nov 26, 2012)

Gotcha, I dont think I was holding the button long enough but I got it to work.  

Here's just some pics I took real quick for updates.

Any ideas on why the leaves are kinda spotty? The PH of my run off is 6.5.


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## Hushpuppy (Nov 26, 2012)

those plants look nice but the spots are not so good. Have you been foliar spraying? if not, what is the PH of the water going in? That could be a PH issue of a toxicity issue.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Nov 27, 2012)

The only time I foliar fed was once a few weeks back, the water ph going in has been about mid 6's.


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## Hushpuppy (Nov 27, 2012)

I meant to say OR a toxicity issue, but I'm not too convinced that is toxicity. The PH sounds solid. When is the last time you added anything for calcium and magnesium. Calcium def sort of looks like that, and the leaves are showing what could be the beginning of magnesium def. A lot of the nute brands don't offer a lot of cal/mag (I suspect it doesn't mix well with the other nutes) which is why a lot of growers including myself keep calmag solution or ammend the soil with dolomite lime.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Nov 28, 2012)

I totally forgot all about cal/mag.... it may need some? Also is there a ph buffer time for calmag?

When I go to water should I keep the ph the same as run off? Now that i have the testing stuff I can get more accurate


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## williamraed (Nov 28, 2012)

That's very nice plants, I have also shared my first plant, which is so beautiful and impressive. Here's just some pics I took real quick for updates. I have to say that This plant has seemed to have been flowering since  mid September.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Nov 29, 2012)

williamraed said:
			
		

> That's very nice plants, I have also shared my first plant, which is so beautiful and impressive. Here's just some pics I took real quick for updates. I have to say that This plant has seemed to have been flowering since  mid September.


 
Hmmm..... uhh what? I think you're on the wrong forum... definitely the wrong thread.


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## sasnak (Nov 29, 2012)

I think this guy is just jerkin our chain...


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## Hushpuppy (Nov 29, 2012)

Yeah, I don't know what the deal is with that guy, I thought maybe a spam alert was in order at first but now I am concerned he may be drying and smoking those flowers that he pictured :confused2:

Anyway, Sorry SB for not getting back to you yesterday. To my knowledge and experience, there is no buffer time for the cal/mag, and if you haven't been giving any then some is definitely in order.

For PH testing, always set up ypur nute solution to be around 6.5 to 6.8 for general operation. You can check runoff to see where the soil is, but you have to remember that there is a ballancing act that goes on there if you check it after watering with nuted water. The reason is because of the chemical exchange that occurs in the soil. Some of the chems in the water are held within the soil while others are exchanged with other chems. Honestly, I don't know if the runoff would accurately tell the true PH of the soil or not. I just make sure that what goes in is correct.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Nov 30, 2012)

Yeah not too sure about him lol... I kinda Laughed at the post for possibly being sarcastic; but then I remember that maybe he was being serious haha. 

Cool thanks Hush, I mixed up a cal/mag solution and just watered with it last night because it was watering day.... I've noticed I have to go from every 4 days now to roughly 2-3 days in a 5 gal bucket to water. Drier air has moved over the tropics right now.

 The only thing I dont have is a hygrometer.. but since I'll be ordering my fan and light possibly today (one or the other) I'll add a few of those in the order too.

As far as a plant update goes I'm noticing the calyxes(sp) starting to swell up a bit. I'm suprised on how that light is actually doing since it's not the right bulb color and its a T5. I cant wait to get the HPS up and going on some Satori here in a few weeks. Once this finishes.


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## Hushpuppy (Dec 1, 2012)

You say your using the wrong spectrum, If it is the 6500K or the 3000K then its ok. For flowering the 3000K is better as it tends to feed the budding better but The vegging spectrum certainly won't hurt it. The only bad spectrum is the 4000-5500K range as those have a lot more of the unusable light in the green range. But there have been plenty of peeps here that have flowered with the veg spectrum and did fine.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Dec 1, 2012)

Okay i gave her 1teaspoon of calmag in a gallon the spots havent changed much so maybe ph issue? Theres slight yellowing(like an N def) on the leaves mid height in the plant. Ill get pics up tomorrow afternoon.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Dec 4, 2012)

When I said wrong spectrum I guess I should have said "I'm not using the optimal spectrum". The plant only has the spotting on half of it... Do you think that it may be burn spots from a foliar feed a while ago? 

The leaves are starting to yellow rapidly, I'm not sure if it's just the normal part of flowering or I need to add N to my nutes. It appears my PH meter didnt calibrate right. 

When I tested my nute solution it came out to 7.9 but whne I tested with my liquid drops in the vial it read something like 5.2... Should I get 7.0 calibration solution to calibrate too?


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## Hushpuppy (Dec 4, 2012)

The spots on the leaves in the earlier pics look to me like foliar feed burn. As far as the yellowing in the middle leaves, If the PH is off then it could be locking out any one or more of the nutrients. However, adding more nitrogen wouldn't help if that is the case, and it could hurt them more. As far as the spots go, I have the same looking thing on a few of my plants that I sprayed with a PM preventative. It didn't seem like it should have burned them but for some reason it did. that may be what happened with yours.

The necrotic spots will not heal once they are past a certain point but if the plant remains healthy then the leaf will most likely survive for a better part of the plant's life, or until the plant doesn't want or need that particular leaf. Many of the leaves on my plants that were burned have become buried by new and higher growth and are now beginning to yellow off because some of them aren't getting light anymore.

If you don't have both calibrating fluids then you need to get them both so that your meter can be calibrated to both high and low range. Doing just one isn't good enough for it to be accurate. I would also try again to recalibrate it. but first take a plain water sample that has no nutes or other chems in it and check it with both the drops and with the meter and see how close they are. If the meter is far off from what you think it should be then try recalibrating. then testing the plain water again.

 This may be redundant to what you know but for calibrating my pen; I pour enough of the calibrate solution into a small cup for the pen to be submerged to just above where the cap stops. Then I rinse off the bulb with fresh water(with it turned off), then stick it in the calibrate solution and swish it around for a moment to get any bubbles out from under it. Then I turn it on and continue to gently swish it around until the numbers stop moving and the read display light goes off. 

This usually takes about 20seconds, then I press and hold the "cal" button until "cal" lights up on the display, then I release the button and hold it still in the solution until the "cal" turns off and just the number is showing. At that point it is done. I turn it off, take it out and rinse it off in fresh water and sling off any remaining water on it. 

DON'T EVER touch the bulb with your fingerrs as any chemicals on your fingers could have a bad effect on the bulb. At this point you should be able to test the plain water again. If it is on the high PH end (at or above 7) then the pen probably won't be as accurate as on lower PH readings.

Try that and see what you get.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Dec 7, 2012)

Okay thanks for the pointer Hush, I got the 7ph solution on order. I didnt know I needed 7ph fluid until I got the meter lol. 

Anyways heres some pics the trics are packin on more and more every day, some are starting to be cloudy now.

Not sure if she is lookin normal or not.. I gave her an watering with only 1tbs of grow and .5tbs of bloom. (I added calmag the watering before this one)


Lemme know what you guys think! Right now I'm just guessing what the PH is from using those drops


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## Hushpuppy (Dec 8, 2012)

Did you mis-type or did you mean to use those levels of nutes. I think if you are doing that, that may be a problem for you. I can't remember the kind of nutrients you are using but in my nutrients you shouldn't give any or very little grow to the solution during the flowering period, and then have a medium amout of micro and a higher amount of bloom. 

(I measure in ml and during bloom phase I use 40ml-micro, 10ml-grow, 50ml-bloom). If your nutes work the same as mine then you are giving them way too much nitrogen and too little Phospherous and potassium, and that is causing them to flower much slower and smaller.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Dec 8, 2012)

I'm used a teaspoon just for the N I completely forgot that micro had some N in it... I Need to get metric liquid measuring cups right now I'm doin it by a teaspoon measuring thing I have.

 I have been doing 1tsp micro, 1tsp, grow, 2 tsp bloom. I'll go to using 2tsp of micro and bloom?? I'm using GH flora 3 part.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Dec 8, 2012)

Hushpuppy said:
			
		

> (I measure in ml and during bloom phase I use 40ml-micro, 10ml-grow, 50ml-bloom). .


 
Is that per gallon??? That seems awful high if that's per gallon. My ppm was 800 with what I normally put in 1tsp micro,1tsp grow, 2-3 tsp bloom.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Dec 8, 2012)

Is there a reason that you are not following the nutrient chart on the bottles of GH?  When first starting out, it is recommended to use the ratios on the bottle and then fine tune as you get more familiar with the needs of your plants.  I would be giving the plants 1 tsp grow, 2 tsp micro and 3 tsp bloom per gallon.  If you are using the Lucas formula with no grow then you should be using a 1-2 ratio with the micro and bloom.  The recommended dose is 8 ml micro and 16 ml bloom per gal of water.  There are 5 ml in a tsp.  So, for every gal you would use real close to 2-1/2 tsp of micro and just a little over 5 tsp of bloom.  I also add cal-mag in flowering at a rate of 1-2 tsp per gal, depending on how the gals look.

IMO, a ppm of 800 is not nearly enough for most strains.  Even Satori which is very efficient in its nute up, I run at around 1200 ppm.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Dec 9, 2012)

Since this grow is really just for getting my feet wet I wanted to try a few different things, especially when most of this grow hasnt been going according to plan lol. It also seemes like when I gave it the recommended nutes the plant only got worse(ph problems im guessing because my meter is outta wack for the moment).

 Another thing I was doing wrong most of the time is with the other plants they were still vegging, whereas this one started flowering pretty quickly but I didnt change it's nutes.


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## Hushpuppy (Dec 9, 2012)

Hey SBS; My bad on that explanation, I was quite baked when I wrote that :doh: I suprised it made any sense lol. Those numbers I gave you were for a full bucket of water(18liters) that I use for mixing my solution. The reason I said that is to show you the ratio for the micro, grow, and bloom values. If you were thinking of using my numbers, don't as we are using similar but different nute brands. What Goddess told you is correct for you as she knows the GH nutes. 

My main concern was whether you were still using grow nutrient during bloom phase, and not using micro as that mix, I would think, would cause some of the problems that you have been having with that plant.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Dec 10, 2012)

Yeah could be, it has been flowering since mid september lol the trics are going cloudy now . I mixed up the recommended nutes batch on the bottle for my next watering.. hopefully that will help it out a bit


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Dec 11, 2012)

After I mixed up a gallon of the recommended nutes and gave her a half gallon yesterday morning; things are looking better now. Spots are getting smaller and green is returning to the leaves.


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## Hushpuppy (Dec 11, 2012)

cool  maybe them buds will go on and fatten up now


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Dec 11, 2012)

I hope so, the trics are mostly cloudy, and I think I'm starting to notice some having a slight amber orange color too on a very select few on the leaves. It smells awesome and most of this plant will go to hash but hey its a first plant and fun little test run for the next grow with satori.


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## Hushpuppy (Dec 11, 2012)

Yeah the growing gets better each time but the waiting for harvest doesn't get any easier


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Dec 14, 2012)

Welllllllllll some unfortunate news..... while I was at work my flippin cat managed to get in the closet and I came home finding the plant on it's side and a few main branches were snapped pretty bad... Looks like an early harvest for me...

 Any tips on what to look for when I hang it and tell whe it's time to jar? 
Also; the trim for hash I believe some people freeze it fresh for bubble bags? I have the one gal size ones.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Dec 14, 2012)

The Hemp Goddess said:
			
		

> IMO, a ppm of 800 is not nearly enough for most strains.  Even Satori which is very efficient in its nute up, I run at around 1200 ppm.


 

(I totally missed this the other day.) 

I was gonna ask, what do you normally run your satori at during flowering?From reading other posts that it's a big drinker but light feeder?? I'm more or less geting ready to do satori. This plant is done, even though it is early. I couldnt remember if 800ppm was high or low; thanks THG. hopefully this time around things will go better.


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## Hushpuppy (Dec 14, 2012)

Man that sucks that the plant got trashed, but you can still get some smoke from it anyway. I cut and trim all my stuff before drying it. But I let mine dry until it feels almost crispy, then I jar it.

I typically run my veg to top out around 800 then up it to around 1200-1400 in flower.


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## The Silver Bullet Special (Dec 26, 2012)

So basically i just need to start with recommended doeses and slowly raise the mixes to what the pplant's needs are?

Another question.... when will this weird grassy smell go away and have the skunky smell come through?


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