# Distance of Flourescents from Flowering Plants



## steveH (Sep 4, 2005)

I have a couple of questions for all the experts out there:

1. How far should the tops of the plants be from the Flourescent lights(3 - 100 WATT/coil) during flowering? 

2. Should I give them all red light, or 2 reds to 1 blue ratio?

_I have had a Ph problem in the past, and I know high quantities of Phosphorus(5-50-5) nutes are desirable during flowering._ 

3. Should I risk giving more nutes during flowering to plants that just recovered from a Ph problem??

Once again...THANKS in Advance for all your help!


----------



## Hick (Sep 5, 2005)

#1. As close as possible without burning the tops. Dependant on your circulation and room setup, 6-8 inches I'd say.
#2. "IMHO" a mixed spectrum
#3..?
#4. Before adding any nutes, I would check the ph of the nutrients once mixed and ready for application. To make sure that they weren't the source of the ph problem.


----------



## Themanwithnoname (Sep 5, 2005)

i think you can get as close as 3 inches with flos. maybe even closer


----------



## steveH (Sep 5, 2005)

Thanks for the help Hick and NoName, I have made the appropriate adjustments.  

Have either of you heard about raising the lights for flowering so the stigmas have to stretch or reach for the light, thus increasing their length/size?



			
				Hick said:
			
		

> #4. Before adding any nutes, I would check the ph of the nutrients once mixed and ready for application. To make sure that they weren't the source of the ph problem.


 
Hick,
I am pretty sure that my Ph problem was from overfeeding.  I was using miracle grow soil (which I now know is harsh as hell) and then about four weeks in I then used a water soluable fertilizer (Peters 20-20-20) at half strength and f--ked the soil up.  I took a Ph reading of soil and it seemed about 5.5-6.0.  I then tested the levels of Nitrogen in the soil and it was literally off the scale.  So, at that point I determined the acidic soil was locking up the nutes. I leeched the pots with filtered/neutral water, and slowly but surely they have seemed to fully recover.  I even some noticed the leaf damage went from spotting/dying to mild nute burn, which told me they were absorbing nutes again!

So, what I am trying to say is that nutes were the source of my Ph problem, but you had said to check to make sure the nutes were not the source of the problem, when I believe they were.  

So, I am still a little confused as to what I should do about feeding?  I think I should not risk it?!?

What do you think?


----------



## Hick (Sep 5, 2005)

> i think you can get as close as 3 inches with flos. maybe even closer


"tube flo's" can be touching the plants, if they're in the _cool_ range, but compact flo's (3 - 100 WATT/coil), get pretty hot. 3" is awfully close, but with good circulation, (as in a fan blowing right on the bulb,) maybe...



> So, what I am trying to say is that nutes were the source of my Ph problem,



Pet stores(aquariums) or spa stores sell a product called "PH up" and "PH down" if you don't have a hydro store nearby. Adjust your fert/water mix before you use it. 6.5-6.8 is about ideal for dirt. Mixing about a tablespoon/per gallon of soil. when you first pot, will help buffer ph. It works at keeping soil neutral(7.0) AND as a bonus, provides magnesium. Which neither MG or Peters have. 
  MG, is bottom of the barrel, in every aspect.."IMHO"
   You did well diagnosing to flush. Is it MG "Time Release"? You might need to flush again. But as long as you see no disorders or defficiencies, I wouldn't change or do anything.


----------



## Themanwithnoname (Sep 5, 2005)

wait do ph ups and downs work for soil??


----------



## Hick (Sep 5, 2005)

> nutes were the source



it should adjust the ph of the nutrient solution, yes..


----------



## Diseased Strain (Sep 6, 2005)

Have either of you heard about raising the lights for flowering so the stigmas have to stretch or reach for the light, thus increasing their length/size?


That would just space the buds apart from echother when they stretch. So no. It wouldnt help, it would make it worse.


----------



## steveH (Sep 6, 2005)

Thanks All!

As long as the water soluble nutes I add are roughly 6.5 - 6.8 Ph, I can safely add without worry of raising Ph, unless current Ph is lower than Ph I am adding?
But, if I add too many nutes with desirable Ph or not, I can still hurt the plants?

I am also wondering the best way to diagnose nute deficiency: by examination of the plant(leaf/petiole color, stem etc...), or by the Ph kits(pain in the ass) they have at home improvement stores?


_______________________________________________________________

_"A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiasm." -__*-*_*Charles Schwab*


----------



## Hick (Sep 7, 2005)

a pretty good read on deficiencies 'n plant problems..
click here


----------



## Diseased Strain (Sep 7, 2005)

I know It's been a while since the question has been asked. But I woke up this morning and the leaves were touching my compact floros in my mother/clone room. The leaves didnt look hurt at all.


----------

