# Organic Teas! Whats your brew?



## drfting07

Thought I would start a kind of tea recipe thread. A lot of people enjoy brewing their own, and using it as a primary organic food source, as a supplemental tea, or as a foliar apray. There are so many different additives and ratios people use. Maybe this will clear up a lot of "newby-ish" question we get about the topic also.   

If your in, post what you like for Veg, Flower and Micro-Maintanance. :icon_smile:

Heres Drfting's Organic Brew: I make 5 gallons and use when needed, as a foliar or watering. 
*Veg*: 1 cup Dr. Earth Organic *5* Fetilizer per gallon of water, 1-2 Tbls Brier Rabbit Mollasses per gallon of water. Brew with air-pump for minimum 36 hours and use full strength @ 3 weeks old.
*Micro*: 1 Tbls Brier Rabbit Mollasses per gallon of water 
*Flower*: 1 cup Dr. Earth Organic *8* Fetilizer per gallon of water, 1-2 Tbls Brier  Rabbit Mollasses per gallon of water. Brew with air-pump for minimum 36  hours and use full strength until chop

Maybe some people will play along....
Thanks Marijuana Passion! and *Green Mojo*!
Drfting07


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## drfting07

Of the 79 people that have looked at this, no one has an organic tea recipe? 

Guess im gonna have to drag some friends in here for me.


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## BackWoodsDrifter

Ifin I may be forward up front to fire I be common to use urine from the night after the night before but seriously pee make it for me.

BWD


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## nouvellechef

I figured BWD would use some type of bear and human excrement to grow hIs flowers 

I never did do teas. So IDK


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## moaky

I tried pee but it ended up yellow and smelled like amonia  my freind trimmed some and asked why certain buds were like that  i said thats brutus  he wondered what kinda of strain that was  i said rottweiller 
kinda do an eyeball measurement.  I use a 50 gallon drum with aqua heater and a big aerator with 4 stones. For veg I use humic acid, mollases, EJ's catalyst, kelp(powder), EJ's bat guano grow , and there volcanic bloom very little and then the Alaskan humus. 
For flower I use the exact same. I just change the amounts.  I add extra kelp and mollases as a hardener. Near end. 
I do measure with a ver accurate eyeball


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## puasurfs

:ciao:

Taking notes here and there... I've begun the "switch".


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## The Hemp Goddess

Doesn't anyone have tea recipes that don't use commercial products like Dr. Earth or EJ?  I cannot get stuff like that where I live, but I do have access to a lot of manures and worm castings.


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## ozzydiodude

Heres one I have been using awhile now that seems to work for me.

5 Gal Dechlorinated water(I dont check or pay attention to PH)
5 TBL(tablespoon) Blackstrap Molasses
2 Cups worm casting
1 Cup compost
5 TBL Epson Salts
5 TBL Blood meal 
5 TBL Bone meal

Brew for 48 hrs in a aeration bucket(air stone in a bucket) the more air the better.Then strain before mixing or using.  Then mix 50/50 with plain dechlorinated water and water your plants. For a treat for my ladies I Use 25%Tea/75% plain dechlorinated water as a folier spray.

Any thing that does not desolve in the brewing time just gets added to the compost pile.


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## orangesunshine

i free hand pour all my ingredients

veg tea/watering
sulphured molasses   
fish emulsion or fish powder
hygrozyme 

work in some bone meal at the flip

flower tea/watering
sulphured molasses 
kelp powder
humic acid


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## BBFan

Hey drfting07- How you been?

Sounds like your mixing up nutes rather than brewing a tea.  You really need to add something that has some type of bacterial life in it- like worm castings, guano, or a commercial product like Espoma Bio-Tone.  That's what will get the activity going in the tea to start breaking down the organic elements and matter to give you slightly quicker results when you feed the mix to your plants.  Watch out for some wacky smells.

Hi THG-
Worm castings will make a good tea, but be careful with manures as they may have more anaerobic bacteria and are also high in salts, unless they have been well composted.  Garden compost makes great teas also.  I guess it depends on what you're trying to achieve:  Something specific to address a nutrient deficiency or trying to increase microbial life present in the soil and on the plant itself from foilar sprays.

Happy Growing!


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## pcduck

The Hemp Goddess said:
			
		

> Doesn't anyone have tea recipes that don't use commercial products like Dr. Earth or EJ?  I cannot get stuff like that where I live, but I do have access to a lot of manures and worm castings.



I use bat guanos and worm castings plus molasses in my teas.

I have use well composted cow manure for my OD. Really gets the microbes moving, but sure has a smell and I did not use much.


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## moaky

THG for your SS mix I would use ozzi the dude's mix just to get some extra micro's in your soil.  maybe add some 4TBS of poweder kelp. kelp and mollasses are a great team.  if no good compost just use 4 cups of worm castings
I don't know about epsom salts, bone meal, and blood meal.  I would think they have an effect on micro's?  Ozzydiodude?  maybe slow micro's building process. 
he may use these for the same reason I use guano's that there are micro's in them already breaking them down that will also grow

Sub out the commercial brands with quality subsitutes



			
				ozzydiodude said:
			
		

> 5 Gal Dechlorinated water(I dont check or pay attention to PH)
> 5 TBL(tablespoon) Blackstrap Molasses
> 2 Cups worm casting
> 1 Cup compost
> 
> Brew for 48 hrs in a aeration bucket(air stone in a bucket) the more air the better.Then strain before mixing or using.  Then mix 50/50 with plain dechlorinated water and water your plants. For a treat for my ladies I Use 25%Tea/75% plain dechlorinated water as a folier spray.


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## The Hemp Goddess

Thanks--I am going to do just that!  I was out of bone meal and was just waiting for that.  I have access to great compost.


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## drfting07

BBFan said:
			
		

> Hey drfting07- How you been?
> 
> Sounds like your mixing up nutes rather than brewing a tea.  You really need to add something that has some type of bacterial life in it- like worm castings, guano, or a commercial product like Espoma Bio-Tone.  That's what will get the activity going in the tea to start breaking down the organic elements and matter to give you slightly quicker results when you feed the mix to your plants.  Watch out for some wacky smells.
> Happy Growing!



Hi BBFan :ciao:

Ive done the whole mixing and matching of single ingredient nutrients before, and brewed teas out of it. Im finding it much easier to have someone do the mixing and matching for me. Cheaper that way too. Dr. Earth is some good **** man. Heres whats in it:

Dr. Earth Organic 5; Alaskan fish bone meal, high country feather meal, Norwegian cold water  kelp meal, valley grown alfalfa meal, colloidal soft rock phosphate,  fish meal, mined potassium sulfate, humic  acid, seaweed extract, beneficial soil microbes and myco

Dr. Earth Organic 8; Alaskan fish bone meal, high country feather meal, mined potassium   sulfate, valley grown alfalfa meal, Norwegian cold water kelp meal,  seaweed extract, beneficial microbes and myco

I add a few things as i brew, but its a pretty well rounded fert as is.

Glad people are finding this thread useful! Keep Updating! THANKS!
Drfting07


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## orangesunshine

bubbling in 2.5 gal tap water---ph is a little high ---give or take a cup or 2 of bio organic with beneficials and a tbl or 2 of moalsses with sulphur


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## juniorgrower

Why molasses with sulphur?


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## The Hemp Goddess

I am curious, too.....why sulfured molasses?


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## pcduck

mtnlaurel.com said:
			
		

> The quality of molasses depends on the maturity of the sugar cane, the amount of sugar extracted, and the method of extraction. There are three major types of molasses: unsulphured, sulphured and blackstrap.
> 
> Unsulphured molasses is the finest quality. It is made from the juice of sun-ripened cane and the juice is clarified and concentrated.
> 
> Sulphured molasses is made from green sugar cane that has not matured long enough and treated with sulphur fumes during the sugar extracting process. Molasses from the first boiling is the finest grade because only a small amount of sugar has been removed. The second boil molasses takes on a darker color, is less sweet and has a more pronounced flavor.
> 
> Blackstrap molasses is from the third boil and only has a commercial value in the manufacture of cattle feed and other industrial uses.



Not sure if because of the sulphur being added or because being a more nutritionally dense sweetener.


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## pcduck

Just did more research.

Sulphurated molasses kill the microbes. 

The so2 must be bad.


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## The Hemp Goddess

Okay, good to know, duck.  

I am putting a 5 gal cheesecloth paint strainer into a 5 gal bucket.  When the brew is ready, all I have to do is lift the strainer out of the bucket and let drain.  It is raining here this morning.  I guess that this might be a good morning to make tea.  I'd like to give my veggies a good foliar spray, too.


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## orangesunshine

wish i could tell you all the technical reasons why i use non un sulphured molasses so i could look really smart---there are none

bottom line is----90% of my soil amendments come in bulk from a feed store--- molasses is used in every watering---all additives are eyeballed---the beneficials in the soil like it---$20 for 5 gal is a bargain

as my esteemed colleague *pcduck* has already shared---sulphur is used to harvest the molasses---it's a by product---costs mo money in the manufacturing process to remove it for the molasses to become food grade---little pricey in the designer grocery stores for 1liter---this does not work for me cause i am a free pourer

shhhhh---don't tell my microbes the sulphur is supposed to be killing them---residual sulphur from molasses harvesting killing microbes is not all correct---my microb colony is thriving and outnumbers the sulphur molecules---i will be happy to share a rootball with any nay sayers

also---farmers use this stuff to lace the feed for their live stock cause it is sweet---trace amounts of sulphur in molasses may not be food grade---but it's not lethal either cause i am not drinking it---in fact--you can't smell it in the molasses, and the plant does not appear to uptake the sulphur---if it did---i would never have a powdery mildew attack  :icon_smile:


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## orangesunshine

this is from "the soilguy" website

Feed Grade Molasses: Commercial grade molasses has sulphur and possibly other preservatives and antibiotics added to reduce fungal growth. Sulphur in most inorganic forms make excellent fungal inhibitors. Antibiotics will inhibit, kill and prevent the growth a wide range, but not all bacteria and fungi. Thus feed grade molasses is not a good choice for a biological stimulant. Care must be taken to read about the ingredients so no ugly little surprises confront you and you don't get the response you want to see.

also checked the label on my cane molasses bucket---it is blackstrap feed grade---i assume it is sulphured because it does not say unsulphured---never had any issues using this stuff and believe it is more helpful than not because it is stimulating and feeding some of the microbal activity---and does provid sugars and starches---proof remains in the rootball for me---i guess feed grade molasses is better than NO molasses


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## pcduck

Orange I will check on that feed molasses as I have a friend that works at where it is processed if it is unsulphurated or not. 

Also not sure if they meant sulphur or the sulphur dioxide which to my understanding could be a chemical breakdown reaction and build up down the line in the process. I need to find that web site again.

Did not find the web site yet... but found out that sulphur dioxide is added as a preservative.

Not sure but isn't SO2 the beginning of acid rain?
Might be ok for a few grows but once the SO2 is above tolerance levels I would think they would have a tough go of it. Just me thinking out loud.


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## 7greeneyes

Molasses made from young sugar cane is called sulphured molasses because of the sulfur dioxide that is added to keep the raw cane fresh until it is processed and to preserve the molasses byproducts produced from it. Unsulphured molasses is made from matured cane plants that have been allowed to ripen naturally in the field.


The triple boiling and sugar extraction process results in Blackstrap molasses being a more nutritionally dense sweetener than plain or "second" molasses. Blackstrap contains the same vitamins and minerals as "second" molasses, but in a more concentrated form. Blackstrap molasses also contains antioxidant compounds, which may help prevent cell damage from free radicals.


Read more: hxxp://www.livestrong.com/article/507716-what-is-the-difference-between-blackstrap-molasses-unsulphured-molasses/#ixzz1yvZeowv2


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## orangesunshine

sorry for the side track/hijack---this thread is supposed to be on tea---been using this over a year now as a tea and in all regular watering---so far so good---no issues---ain't killed nothin' yet---no weird bacteria/fungus---smells nice---i refuse to blame the molasses on the the extra finger growing from my ear


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## pcduck

Orange you will have to keep us updated.

I think its a pretty good thread and on subject as molasses is a key ingredient in most our teas. Plus I wondered like many and still do


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## juniorgrower

I was quite sure it was supposed to be unsulphured molasses but I have been wrong before.  It is raining hard here too THG, and it's supposed to keep it up for another day or so.  I know I've had enough to last me a while.


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## 7greeneyes

I've always heard unsulphered black strap and thats what always produced dankage for me....specifically Brer rabbit mollasses


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## orangesunshine

pcduck said:
			
		

> Orange you will have to keep us updated.
> 
> I think its a pretty good thread and on subject as molasses is a key ingredient in most our teas. Plus I wondered like many and still do



brother duck---this is the update---i been using this stuff (feed grade molasses) without any issues for over a year---it is very affordable and i use copious amounts with all waterings and teas---it has not interfered with my microbal activity and unlike all the bad rap and negative reports---it seems to have contributed to the overall health and vitality of my plants---i use and recommend it---$20 for 5 gal bucket is cheap---if nothing else---so long as i am satisfied with my production and it makes me feel like i am benefiting my garden when i use it---i will continue to do so---besides the extra finger protruding from my ear is likely from all the clonex anywhooo---


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## drfting07

Thanks for keeping this thread alive, guys. A lot of good info can be found here! Keep it up!


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## drfting07

7greeneyes said:
			
		

> I've always heard unsulphered black strap and thats what always produced dankage for me....specifically Brer rabbit mollasses



Same here, 7GE.


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## pcduck

Orange said:
			
		

> -i assume it is sulphured because it does not say unsulphured-



Could just be that since it is animal grade it does not need to list it if it is not in there. And with food they must state it is not there for people with allergies. Heck if I know:confused2: Maybe it is unsulphured:confused2:

Not to do with growing but makes me think if it kills yeast, it may harm the microbes.


			
				canadiandoomer.ca said:
			
		

> sulphured molasses will kill the yeast in your baked goods.





			
				canadiandoomer.ca said:
			
		

> Most molasses sold to consumers does not have added sulphur, though.


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## orangesunshine

i used to buy a product called hybrix from the grow shop---about $50 2.5 gal---think it was made by earth juice---honestly speaking---i have not noticed any difference in yield since i switched to the cattle grade a little over a yr ago


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## BBFan

drfting07 said:
			
		

> Hi BBFan :ciao:
> 
> Ive done the whole mixing and matching of single ingredient nutrients before, and brewed teas out of it. Im finding it much easier to have someone do the mixing and matching for me. Cheaper that way too. Dr. Earth is some good **** man. Heres whats in it:
> 
> Dr. Earth Organic 5; Alaskan fish bone meal, high country feather meal, Norwegian cold water kelp meal, valley grown alfalfa meal, colloidal soft rock phosphate, fish meal, mined potassium sulfate, humic acid, seaweed extract, beneficial soil microbes and myco
> 
> Dr. Earth Organic 8; Alaskan fish bone meal, high country feather meal, mined potassium sulfate, valley grown alfalfa meal, Norwegian cold water kelp meal, seaweed extract, beneficial microbes and myco
> 
> I add a few things as i brew, but its a pretty well rounded fert as is.
> 
> Glad people are finding this thread useful! Keep Updating! THANKS!
> Drfting07


Hey Drfting07-

You know, I always wondered why you were so big on the Dr. Earth products, but honestly I never bothered to really check them out.

My local farm and feed store starting carrying a few of their products and I've taken a closer look and they certainly are what you've been saying all along... good stuff.


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## 7greeneyes

+REP for Drft's find :yay:


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## drfting07

Thanks guys. The amount of bud i produce for my needs, i dont need to buy this stuff in bulk, single ingredient ferts. It works great for my needs. ive looked into them for 2 years, and have been running milos products for those 2 years. not only that, its beyond affordable. 20 bucks for 12 lbs of COMPLETE OMRI certified organic fertilizer. Im sold!

Keep it alive!
Drfting07


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## moaky

orangesunshine said:
			
		

> i used to buy a product called hybrix from the grow shop---about $50 2.5 gal---think it was made by earth juice---honestly speaking---i have not noticed any difference in yield since i switched to the cattle grade a little over a yr ago



wow $50 for hi brix thats crazy...i the 2.5 gallon for $18.  not as good as your five gallon for $20. and if works just the same, might as well. I think I'll check out my local feed store


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## bink

i got me a 55 gal. barrel filled it w/ water to this i added 1 coffee can dried chicken ****, 2 cans of worm castings, 10 lrg. comfrey leaves, 1 can of ground alfalfa, 1/2 can ground oyster shell, 1 qrt. liquid kelp. 1c molasses. put lid on and let set five days. but i shake daily. this is my grow juice and my garden is beautiful. yesterday i started my bloom juice. let me know if you want to know whats in it


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## The Hemp Goddess

How do you shake a 55 gal barrel filled with water? 

What size coffee can?  How did you come up with this particular recipe?  What is different between your grow formula and your flower formula?


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## orangesunshine

*THG*---most peeps brewing tea will use a bubbler and a bag of some sort---like a laundry silks bag for the dryer, burlap sack, or a womans nylon stocking---anything to contain the organic matter that will not break down or make it thru your pump before time to use the tea---helps if it's also tied to a line for shaking and or fishing out when it's time to use the tea---same as a lipton tea bag


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## pcduck

Trying out a new tea recipe.

Additives per 1 gallon of pure water.

1 tablespoon Kelp Meal
1 tablespoon 5-5-5 dry organic fertilizer
1 tablespoon black-strap molasses
1 teaspoon of high N bat guano

Bubble for 24 hours

Then add:

1/4 cup Big Bloom
1/2 cup worm castings or compost
1 teaspoon liquid fish fertilizer
10 drops CAMg+ by GO

Bubble for another 24 hours.

Strain and dilute. 1 gallon of tea will make 2 gallons of feed.

This tea is a TLO tea by The Rev.
Just started using the TLO method so I will let ya know the outcome.


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## drfting07

Awesome PC, Thanks for keeping the thread alive!


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## orangesunshine

:yeahthat: gots to be many a more brew out there


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## drfting07

Yes sir, Orange! Im ready to hear them!


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## juniorgrower

Hey Duck glad to hear your trying the "TLO" method.  I just bought Rev's book and going to try his method also.


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## Irish

http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12692

info on molasses from 3_lb...

i've used unsulphered blackstrap molasses for many years in my organic teas for the trace minerals...i also feed my compost heaps with it to speed up the proccess of breaking it down...bbp taught me how to make lacto bacillus, and i also use that in my organic grows religiously...i spray it on my compost also to speed up the break down...


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## farmergreen

HI..I just found the site... :icon_smile: I will not waste much time with specifics...I just read about the molasses..you have to use UN-sulphered molasses. Anyways..here is a vegging tea I use. I make 5 gals. at a time:
I use well water in a 5 gal bucket
2 cups EWC (store bought or home made)
1 cup Alfalfa meal
1 cup Kelp meal
1/2 cup bone meal
1/2 cup blood meal
1/2 cup puruvian seabird guano
1/2 cup to 1 cup MEXICAN bat guano ( 10-1-1 )
1 TBLS espoma Bio Tone Starter Plus
2 TBLS. Organic fish and seaweed fertilizer ( Neptunes Harvest)
1 TBLS Nitrozime marine algae extract
2-3 TBLS VermaPlex Organic Microbial Soil Inoculant (e-bay)
2-3 TBLS Unsulphered Blackstrap ( or any brand) MOLASSES
1/2 TSP. Humic Acid
1/2 Cup concentrated worm casting TEA (e-bay) 
I stir all this together and use a strong pump to bubble it for 48 hrs. minimum. 
I give the plants about 1-2 cupfuls (depending on sixe of plant) after watering about once every 2 weeks. :banana: 
I use a similar recipie for flowering except I cut out the alfalfa, bone and blood meals, the seabird guano, the nitrozime, the fish and seaweed fertilizer, humic acid and the espoma bio tone. I substitute the MEXICAN bat guano with INDONIESIAN bat guano ( 0.5-13-0.3 ) and JAMACIAN bat guano ( 1-10-1 ) I may also add 2 TBLS of pure natural phosphous. 
Am I overdoing? So far the plants are doing great, very lush and thick thick stalks. :woohoo:  I used this basic recipie last year and had excellant results.:clap: I appriciate this organic thread and anticipate that I will have a few questions about teas and soils if I can't find the answers after reading all the posts. THANKS!! 
                                                      FG:smoke1:


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## drfting07

Here are some good reads on Aerated Compost Tea or ACT:

Books:
Teaming with Microbes: The Organic Gardeners guide to the Soil Food Web

The Compost Tea Brewing Manual hxxp://lake.osu.edu/cuyahoga/topics/agriculture-and-natural-resources/cuyahoga-composts/Compost%20Tea%20Brewing%20Manual.pdf

Websites: 

hxxp://www.compostjunkie.com/compost-tea-recipe.html
hxxp://www.dirtdoctor.com/compost-tea_vq152.htm
hxxp://www.gardeningwithmicrobes.com
hxxp://www.grogreenorganics.com
hxxp://www.simplici-tea.com


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## TwoHighCrimes

Hi guys this brew may well be unfamiliar to many as i only have the option of using Australian Products !

Twohighcrimes OzzyBomb Brew.

VEGE MIX Soil 

1 x 25kg bag Searles 5'n'1 ( contents per bag : Blood n bone, Cow manure,sheep manure,Chicken manure,)

 1 x 25kg bag Mother natures Mushroom compost.

 1 x 25kg bag Richgrow Organic Premium Compost.

1 x 90 Ltr Brunnings easy wetta premuim coco coir block ( flushed 3 times with 5 TBLSP epsom salts, 50mls of eco dolimite liquid lime along with 200 mls of Powerfeed added to final flush and left to soak for 12 -18hrs)

10- 12 shovels of washed builders sand.

 2 x cupful of Richgrow blood n bone 
.
 4 x cupful richgrow super phosphate .( hit with hammer to dust )

2 x handful of king island kelp meal,

3 handfuls dolimite lime pulverised



Vege mix Tea 15 ltr Bubble teas are brewed using :
15 ltrs rain water or "tap water bubbled for 24hrs to dechlorinate.  

4 cups of vege bin worm castings,  

3 cups compost, 

Power feed @ 80mls, 

Seasol seaweed liquid @ 70mls 

(dusted dolimite lime @ 1 handful ) 

2 TBLSP kelp meal

1 handful Richgrow super phoshate (dusted)  

3 TBLSP of dissolved epsom salts,

3-4 TBLSP of Beerenberg  unsulphered molasses 
I feed teas undiluted every 3rd watering .( water, water, Feed,)


FLOWERING SOIL MIX

I had some vege mix around 15kg left over and added it with..

1 x 25kg bag Richgrow mushroom compost

1x 25kg bag searles 5"n"1

1 x 25 kg bag Richgrow Organic Premuim compost

45 ltrs Brunnings coco coir Flushed 3 times with 5 TBLSP dissolved epsom salts 200mls seasol liquid seaweed and 100mls of powerfeed added to final flush and left to soak for 12-18hrs,

4 cups of Dolimite lime ( dusted use hammer) 

 3-4 handfuls King Island Kelp meal

3 handfuls richgrow sulphate of potash (dusted use hammer)

4 x cupful super phos (dusted use hammer)



15ltr Bubble teas Flowering brew consists of : 
4 cups flower bin worm castings, 

2 handfuls garden compost, 

1x handful "dusted" dolimite lime 

1 x handful Super phos (dusted), 

1 x handful sulphate of potash (dusted) 

1 handful king island kelp meal, 

100mls seasol liquid kelp, 

Powerfeed varies according to yellowing of older growth and would be strain dependant imo ! 20-50 mls . 

4 Tblsp of beerenberg unsulphered molasses.

I feed every 3-4 days undiluted and Airate for 20-24hrs .

If any members could aid in Promoting this Tea and soil Mix I would be grateful.

Thankyou guys . 
THC.


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## BackWoodsDrifter

I be tryin some these here fancy teas yual mixin and some them almost made me puke! still pickin and flickin bat **** from me teeth! How can yual drink such swamp water?

BWD


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## TwoHighCrimes

Remove teeth .
Hold nose .
Drink.
Start praying


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## BackWoodsDrifter

after burps makin me eyes water 

BWD


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## Ruffy

ok rookie issues here, with all the great goodies we use & super soils. how can i keep my roots all fat & white. i seen to have some great roots & some brown smaller roots, not dead or root rotted, just not 100%. i only use mykro, when transplanting, on actual root ball. im looking for a w soluble mykro. using nouvellchefs ss mix. just trying to master issues. im reading a bunch of info & trial & error.  thanks guys


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## johnnylongjohns

Its the soil that causes poor root structure. Some of that super soil suppresses root growth and does not allow for best nutrient uptake. If you are using full on organics and a decomposing soil, you will have bugs. Its just all part of it. Adding mycrohiazze will not improve your soil. It should already be teaming with life.


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## jmansweed

Johnnylongjohns - "bugs" are not included in every organic grow. Not by any stretch of the imagination. Microbial life yes - bugs?, no. 

Mycorrhiza is not only a highly recommended ingredient, it will greatly improve nutrient uptake in any medium it can establish itself in, including many mediums packed with organic matter (in many cases, even when life is already established) 

Many things can cause poor root growth, including but not limited to soil structure. Adding pearlite for example, will vastly improve aeration and hence root growth. Ensuring proper levels of calcium, potassium and phosphorus are also equally important. It's about balancing the medium imo.


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## Ruffy

thanks jman that sounds more lke what ive read. but putting all these things into action is the key ,lol
ive mixed my ssoil a bit & smashed up my perlite  a bit to much, ill add more p to the next transplants & see how that does. cheeers all


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## ShOrTbUs

Ruffy said:
			
		

> thanks jman that sounds more lke what ive read. but putting all these things into action is the key ,lol
> ive mixed my ssoil a bit & smashed up my perlite  a bit to much, ill add more p to the next transplants & see how that does. cheeers all



do you feel like your plants are under preforming? did you copy the chefs soil to the "T"? sometimes changing or leaving out something that seems insignificant can lead to a big problem.

myco fungi will always benefit your soil to an extent. since mj is a annual it likes to have more bacteria then fungi, but still loves the fungi none the less. diversity is equally as important as the size of your microbial herd. even though you want a bacterial dominated soil for mj, the fungi play a big part in soil structure. fungi create small pathways starting at the rhizosphere, then branching out into the soil. they use it to transport food/water. soil that is too compact can be detrimental to your fungi. perlite is your friend.


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## drfting07

Thanks shortbus!


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## ShOrTbUs

my current flowering AACT

1 gallon water
- 1 teaspoon blood meal
- 1 teaspoon bone meal
- 1 tablespoon blackstrap
- 1 tablespoon 5-5-5

bubble 24 hrs

- 1/4 cup big bloom
- 1/2 cup 50/50 castings/bio tone starter plus

bubble 24 hrs

strain and add 1gal water for feeding. cut in half with water again for foliar.

this is also TLO method, though a little revised, but everything meets the omri standard. the duck uses calmg+ b/c he runs RO water. my tap water has a bit of cal and mg already in it. after its been declorinated it sits at about 60ppm. i haven't gotten my hands on any liquid fish fert or guano's yet.


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## 1lildog

I think fungi is over rated.
$$$


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## ShOrTbUs

1lildog said:
			
		

> I think fungi is over rated.
> $$$



its not at all. a soil food web needs to be balanced to function properly. when your soil lacks proper diversity in microlife, nutrient uptake becomes suboptimal, and the structure of your soil allows for less oxygen exchange. not only that but you can wind up with a bacteria dominated soil that will raise your ph too high. it will also lower the number of predatory microbes that like to snack on fungi. soil food webs are fragile, but are always fixable within a reasonable amount of time. 

ohh and if paying for microbes is not something you dont like doing. invest in a compost pile & a worm bin. free microbes for life after that. more brown on the compost pile for more fungi, more green on the pile for more bacteria.


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## drfting07

Read TLO (True Living Organics) Any living soil mix NEEDS myco fungi's to perform 100%


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## 1lildog

I have read it and I think it's funny that the fungi comparison pictures are are from mycos.


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