# Week 1



## sopappy (Aug 17, 2018)

I grow from seed... say I drop the bean day one, see the neck day 4, eager sprouts by day 6 and then the first real set after the cotyledons maybe the size of half a penny by day by day 10 or 11.
So it's almost two weeks since I dropped the seed, how old are they? ooooor when does week 1 start?
with first veg nutes?
with dropped bean?
at sprout?


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## pcduck (Aug 20, 2018)

Depends on grow style. Chems once the cotyledons starts yellowing. Organics, I start using tees in about 2 months after the 3rd set of leaves.


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## sopappy (Aug 20, 2018)

hydro, rapid rooters in hydroton. I try to compare my seedlings to pictures and mine are pathetic slow growers in comparison. All kinds of lit about 'stages', but no definitive start date. I like the yel visual cue, and I'll use that as beginning week 1 re the nute schedule. Thanks


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## Hushpuppy (Aug 26, 2018)

I call week 1 when the first true leaves begin showing well. Which for vegging plants, figure 6-8 weeks from seeing sprout to sexual maturity. They may be slow getting started due to genetic variation, meaning that plant could be more about growing her roots at the moment, making the upward growth a little slower. Once you see the cotyledons begin to yellow, start feeding at about 1500-250ppm (on the 500 scale)(300ppm on the 700 scale)(0.2 EC). As soon as you see growth get more vigorous, increase the ppm of solution by 50% for the next week. then as you continue to see vigorous growth each week, bump up the solution again. You want a smooth increase over about 3 weeks from the min nutes to full nutes of about 500-700ppm (500 scale or 0.5 EC; about 700-800ppm on the 700 scale). You may have to adjust these numbers to fit your plants' likes.


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## Hushpuppy (Aug 26, 2018)

about the peppers, its all about the oil. get about 5 large peppers and boil them in a pot of water until they are very mushy. Strain them out of the water before it cools then allow to cool and put in sprayer. spray plants then watch for bugs as you may have to adjust the strength of spray with more peppers or by concentrating the solution by evaporating some of the water out of the solution. I would use about 1-2 liters of water to start.


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## sopappy (Aug 26, 2018)

Hushpuppy said:


> I call week 1 when the first true leaves begin showing well. Which for vegging plants, figure 6-8 weeks from seeing sprout to sexual maturity. They may be slow getting started due to genetic variation, meaning that plant could be more about growing her roots at the moment, making the upward growth a little slower. Once you see the cotyledons begin to yellow, start feeding at about 1500-250ppm (on the 500 scale)(300ppm on the 700 scale)(0.2 EC). As soon as you see growth get more vigorous, increase the ppm of solution by 50% for the next week. then as you continue to see vigorous growth each week, bump up the solution again. You want a smooth increase over about 3 weeks from the min nutes to full nutes of about 500-700ppm (500 scale or 0.5 EC; about 700-800ppm on the 700 scale). You may have to adjust these numbers to fit your plants' likes.



Would you call the first true set, (cotyledons being pair1), the 3rd pair, the 5 pointers?
In this pic, does it look like the plant is working on the 5 point leaf at the 3rd node?
not my plant btw.... I haven't got that far in months!


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## sopappy (Aug 26, 2018)

Hushpuppy said:


> about the peppers, its all about the oil. get about 5 large peppers and boil them in a pot of water until they are very mushy. Strain them out of the water before it cools then allow to cool and put in sprayer. spray plants then watch for bugs as you may have to adjust the strength of spray with more peppers or by concentrating the solution by evaporating some of the water out of the solution. I would use about 1-2 liters of water to start.



HA! I bought four small peppers. 
I went at them with one gentle spray of soap top and bottom followed by a rinse and they seemed okay but I went at them again the next day and I've lost 3 so far :-(  
Went over my room and eq to bottom disinfecting, sure will disheartening if I see one again but I'm not using the soap again. Thanks for the tip.


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## sopappy (Aug 26, 2018)

Well, thread says week one, here's my latest attempt, Nl5 x SK1, 8 seeded last week.
No nutes until I see the cotyledons and then cal/meg too as part of the ppm total of 150-250?
It goes in first as it's supplement, but are it's ppms part of grand total?


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## sopappy (Aug 27, 2018)

and another grow bites the dust... 8 BC big bud, a great start as usual but the thripps came back, then slimey roots,.... GONE!
I have not had a successful grow IN YEARS. I manage to get a few plants to harvest but I suck at this. Seems I don't see a problem when it's staring me in the face. Me no farmer :-(

I'd like to post 8 pictures a day (or often) of my 8 NL5 for the next couple of weeks (until they start dying), it's been a week since the seeds were dropped (AUG 20) into rapid rooters w/ hydroton in net pots.

My grows start great and sputter to a grinding halt.
Save me from myself. Maybe you'll see where I go off the rails.
NL5 x SK1


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## sopappy (Aug 28, 2018)

I was doing every half hour, but pcducks words are echoing in my ear..the rooters look too wet, so I just changed to every 6hrs  (thanks HP too)
I also had the water rising half way up the rooter, now it just licks the bottom of the pot, and the rooter sits on the bottom of the pot (surrounded by and sitting on hydroton (baked at 500 for 20 min)

Thanks for catching my pH, HG, I'm doing 5-6 now, low end first, I was too high fer sure (har har)
I've added copious panda paper, minimal light leeks now

So I'm waiting for yellow cotyledons and went 300 last time and everybody said they were hungry looking. Plan is to move all 8 in to a 60L tub at week 1 of veg (or 3rd set)


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## sopappy (Aug 28, 2018)

These are a couple of T5s..


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## sopappy (Aug 28, 2018)

I almost lost this crop already. I went crazy on the cleaning but not good enough.
I thought I'd prep my nutes in the freshly cleaned 60L tub and be ready for the yellow cotyledons.
Ph 5.5   170ppm    this morning
I go down tonight and read 6.5  160ppm
W T F a full point and there are no plants!
Guess I'll head back to that slimey roots thread
I'm hoping I just forgot to clean those drain extensions, That pythium is gross


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## zem (Aug 29, 2018)

Hi sopappy. You could bury the overstretched stem of the seedlings with growrocks. This picture is of the pump in your water system? I never seen anything close to this. I don't clean the system by hand, just add h2o2 and never had such an issue


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## Rosebud (Aug 29, 2018)

sopappy, please consider going into dirt. Organic soil is so easy. no ph. Ya can't really mess it up too much.


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## Alasgun (Aug 29, 2018)

What Rosebud said!


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## sopappy (Aug 29, 2018)

zem said:


> Hi sopappy. You could bury the overstretched stem of the seedlings with growrocks. This picture is of the pump in your water system? I never seen anything close to this. I don't clean the system by hand, just add h2o2 and never had such an issue



yes, that's why I put it so low in the pot, I always get some stretching
that's a pump with a venturi making that fountain and a drain at the other end, 
re-circulating on 15, off 15
I had to clean out the slimey film everywhere, I've been to low on the H2O2 proBABly
10mL per 40L obviously isn't enough


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## sopappy (Aug 29, 2018)

Rosebud said:


> sopappy, please consider going into dirt. Organic soil is so easy. no ph. Ya can't really mess it up too much.



I started in dirt and had great results but discarding the dirt became ridiculously awkward
so I have tons of hydroton now... I've been sloppy, hydroponics demands a hugely higher standard of cleanliness. I baked my pellets for the first time for this last crop.
I'm going to try again with a couple more starts, if I'm not smiling by October, I should be able to sell it all easily enough and we'll talk... pull up a couple of chairs, maybe split a bottle of Thrive?


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## zem (Aug 30, 2018)

there is no need to bake the pellets. This is called overkill. In fact I think you are trying too hard


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## sopappy (Aug 30, 2018)

zem said:


> there is no need to bake the pellets. This is called overkill. In fact I think you are trying too hard



I know it sounds like that Zem but no, really, I've been getting discouraged with all the lacklustre harvests and shitty starts and often just left the room in disgust skipping chores. I got sloppy and have picked up Thripps.  My DIY cooler broke earlier this summer so I've been using frozen water bottles. Pythium comes back. Really, I don't get away with anything.

If I don't see Thripps on this next batch (when the rooms are effing EMPTY), I'll have to keep doing it, If the Thripps are back again, I skip it next time, H2O2 soak okay? maintenance dose?

damn internet... how much research do I have to do, Zem?


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## sopappy (Aug 30, 2018)

I measured the wingspan of one of the plants couple of days ago, they have not budged.
I DO see root growth though. No nutes, 5.5 100ppm (not RO)
The plugs are not soggy but I am seeing little green patches starting.
I fill the tray to bottom of net pot and drain every 6 hours.

UPDATE re 118, 119    all I did was lift that pot up from the hydroton bed (carefully) to see if I could see any roots underneath, then took the pictures. the roots shriveled up like George in the pool, stuck to the bottom of the pot and so far, it has not recovered.


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## sopappy (Aug 30, 2018)

These are all NL5 x SK1 and it amazes how different they are in height, all things being equal.
There's a 1 inch runt and a 4 inch stringbean
and i tried to get a picture of the moss on the plug


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## Rosebud (Aug 30, 2018)

Discard dirt? i put it in a composter and reuse the heck out of it with added amendments.   Mojo for your grow sopapy.


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## zem (Aug 30, 2018)

Sopappy it could be that the environment is contaminated clean the room and the surrounding areas. Throw out everything soil related. This could be the source of your problem but surely not the fresh hydroton. They use ovens at 1200C temps to expand these pellets. 
Looks like you have root growth. This one should pick up


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## sopappy (Aug 30, 2018)

zem said:


> Sopappy it could be that the environment is contaminated clean the room and the surrounding areas. Throw out everything soil related. This could be the source of your problem but surely not the fresh hydroton. They use ovens at 1200C temps to expand these pellets.
> Looks like you have root growth. This one should pick up



I don't think it was the pellets but I'm afraid to leave ANYTHING untouched.
It was more likely water temps or something didn't get cleaned well enough.
Yup, it's in the air, literally, you can introduce pythium with bubblers for pete's sake, 
I never think of cleaning air hoses! 
The room is done, outside the room is next

I have both 60L tubs recirculating RO water with 20mL H2O2 29%


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## sopappy (Aug 30, 2018)

Rosebud said:


> Discard dirt? i put it in a composter and reuse the heck out of it with added amendments.   Mojo for your grow sopapy.



It's harder to get rid of than you'd think, I'm in the city, no yard, I was looking for CLEAN FILL signs hahaha
yup, need planty mojo, thank you


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## pcduck (Aug 31, 2018)

The only time I have gotten slimy roots was when my reservoir temps got to high. And lets  just say my grow rooms are not scientific chem lab clean. 

@sopappy does your rapid rooters ever get just damp or are they continuesly saturated?


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## sopappy (Aug 31, 2018)

@sopappy does your rapid rooters ever get just damp or are they continuesly saturated?[/QUOTE]

Yes, that's the goal, to let them get to damp or moist and not drenched, but too early to let them dry out completely. They are not continuously saturated but I try to keep them moist: I let them get to where I know they are close to drying out, then I'll let the water level rise higher to submerse half the plug,(and/or spray the rocks around it)
then return water level back to just below the pot (to flood and drain the roots 4 times a day)

Once I seem them yellowing cotyledons, it's in to the tub and I'll never flood above the net pot bottom, I just don't think it's wise to leave those things submerged.

Have two tubs re-circulating 40L w/ 40mL H2O2.....  0000pm and 5.0pH
I'm assuming any ppms is a sign I didn't get all the pythium


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## sopappy (Sep 1, 2018)

pcduck said:


> Depends on grow style. Chems once the cotyledons starts yellowing. Organics, I start using tees in about 2 months after the 3rd set of leaves.



I'm trying to get everything right again here but if/when I ever do, i want to cut down on the H202 and I'm assuming this is that Heisenberg tea which i think I can make. This is the first place I've seen "about 2 months" after 3rd set.....   do I wait that long in hydro too?


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## pcduck (Sep 1, 2018)

No


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## sopappy (Sep 1, 2018)

pcduck said:


> No


hahahaha morning, pc, thanks
good to know you're still checking in, I think they are grinding to a halt again dammit

not to self: I should not have lifted that net pot to check the roots, they did not like that, shriveled and stuck to the bottom. If I crack others up a bit I see nice white still going down, phew
(I miss dirt, hydro is fussy)


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## sopappy (Sep 1, 2018)

I haven't seen much growth in 4 days !!! I sure hope it's all root activity.


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## sopappy (Sep 2, 2018)

I'm fearing the walking dead thing again and saw enough yellow to justify the move to the tub and nutes, water is re-circ 200ppm at 5.3 using the 3 flora ones and calmag
last night it was 5.2, no change in level or PPM in 24 hours

I have two of them quarantined in saucers already fearing they'll start up the pythium.
One was a runt that went nowhere, the other was one I gently picked up to look at the roots,
I'll never do that again, it never recovered.


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## sopappy (Sep 3, 2018)

oh no oh no oh no oh no, hope there's folks around this morning, does this look like pythium starting? These plants haven't budged in 3 days but roots were growing and encouraging when I moved them in to the tub. I even saw those ladder ones, nice and white.
The water is right up to a quarter inch below the pot (plug) re-circ 200 pmm 5.3
I'm ready with the H2O2 but don't want to, it's a 44L rez, say 11 gal

That number 157 bundle looks slimey, and should they all be clinging like that?
or is that just coming up from under the water like a goil with long hair
:-(


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## pcduck (Sep 3, 2018)

What is your rez temp?
Some brands of nutes will discolor the roots.

If rez temp above 75°. I would run a weak solution of H2O2 and lower the temps of the rez. Then maintain the temps at 65° to 72°, I try to stick around 68°. After that leave them alone. Anything that is happening down below, eventually shows up above. Patience is required.  Rez temps are extremely important in hydro. The higher the temps, the harder it is to maintain o2 saturation. An air stone in the rez would improve this saturation, also helps with ridding slimy roots, especially if dealing with less than optimal temps.


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## sopappy (Sep 3, 2018)

Check, PC, I'm staying below 75 but it's still 73, 74, and the bottles only drop a degree or two for a few hours. I figure 3mL H2O2 every 3 days is okay.

I got distracted this summer with Thripp wars and neglected the temps and pythium came back. I've been looking at ways to cool my water and stumbled across a claim that running a submerged pump 15' ON and 15' OFF keeps the water cooler. I experimented with submerged vs land and saw no difference. My land pump is warm to the touch though.

I'm going to try one of those Pelltier coolers inline with the re-circulating pump this week.


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## sopappy (Sep 3, 2018)

Still no growth. Yellowing, not enough Cal/Mg?
Still 5.3 200ppm, They are not eating but did drink 1 litre (unless my dipstick is off)
I wanted to top up with some more Cal/Mg but they're not eating what they have ???


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## sopappy (Sep 4, 2018)

Holy crap... my pH jumped from 5.3 to 7.0 overnight. The 6 of them drank about 2 litres and the ppm dropped 30ppm. 
Do I RESET THE TANK (it's been about 4 days, 5.3 200ppm) and target 300 or 400 ppms?
or just add some nutes to this tank?


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## pcduck (Sep 4, 2018)

I ran mine from 10 to 14 days with just adding more r/o when small, before changing out. Once they got larger I would change out every 7 days


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## sopappy (Sep 5, 2018)

Pythium again.
******* uncle, guess I'll have to burning the place to the ground


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## sopappy (Sep 5, 2018)

TEA
water.... still available here
molasses... yep
myco powda... yep
Worm castings... yep

BOTANICARE AQUASHIELD....what are we using in Canada, i can't find this


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## pcduck (Sep 5, 2018)

Are you switching over to organics?


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## sopappy (Sep 5, 2018)

nope, I'm reading that the TEA is okay in hydro if I stop using H2O2
(it doesn't seem to be doing much anyhow, the roots still look like snot)


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## Jasmine (Sep 5, 2018)

How come all the pictures show the net cup,   but not in a reservoir?  the issues you see could be from light getting to the roots


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## sopappy (Sep 5, 2018)

Jasmine said:


> How come all the pictures show the net cup,   but not in a reservoir?  the issues you see could be from light getting to the roots



I use rapid rooters and don't like them sitting in the water. The pots are all sitting on a bed of pellets that fills and empties every 4 hours. If necessary, I'll top feed but they can stay a few weeks in there, the transplant is just gently lifting the pot and dropping it in the tub.

I improved the light blockage with panda paper and sleeves for the pots. The roots were nice in those trays but when I moved them to the tubs, I noticed the slime within 2 days. Tough nut, I've been reading. It's not Pythium, it's way worse; something called brown slime algae. Okay with lots of bubbles, not bothered by cooler temps and is pretty much unfazed by H2O2. My pH went through the roof overnight when it took hold, that was the clue. Most root troubles cause pH to drop, slime causes it to rise. 5.3-7.3 in 8 hours, it's noticeable 

I'm brewing up some tea but it's another crop written off as far as I'm concerned. Plants don't recover from this, well, mine don't. I'm tempted to dip one of them in pure bleach and see if the slime sloughs off, gawd, never knew farming could be this gross.

You can see the slime on the roots up there in the pictures. But you don't want to really.


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## pcduck (Sep 6, 2018)

I would not mix organics and synthetics, no microbes and an active tea will make mess.

4 hours between waterings may not let the raid rooter dry enough.


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## sopappy (Sep 6, 2018)

"If you have slime attacking plants with very small roots, adding housing to your res like a lava rock or koi pond mat will make a big difference. Place the housing in your tea brew for the duration and then move it to your res"

What the heck is a "housing" ?


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## sopappy (Sep 6, 2018)

pcduck said:


> I would not mix organics and synthetics, no microbes and an active tea will make mess.



I know, I know, I'm reading lots of conflicting stuff. This crop is dying, I might as well try to learn something. Are nutes synthetics? If so, damn, but I'm trying it anyways. I'm told if no H2O2 left, I can have at it. I'm nervous about the molasses but like I said, the walking dead.
Huh. The tea IS the microbes??? Is this a test?
Besides, I already have a mess 

                       4 hours between waterings may not let the raid rooter dry enough.

The level stops just shy of the rooter's bottom, or in the tub, I can leave a 1" air gap under the pot, lick the bottom of the pot (bottom of the plug) or cover most of the plug... I like the air gap when all is well.
With the domes on the trays, it mists up nicely and I'm finding the plugs stay darn close to right out of the package in colour with me doing nothing (a good thing)
When I see roots peek out the bottom, I add 30 secs to the timer and go a quarter inch up the plug  to start ebb and flowing the roots coming out the sides in to the rocks.

Your comment begs the picture of a perfectly wet plug, goldilocks zone, not too wet, not too dry


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## pcduck (Sep 6, 2018)

I would suggest researching organics before you try it and ruin your grow.


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## sopappy (Sep 7, 2018)

It's more like read and filtre. 
Ruin my grow. Well, it won't be the first time.
Even if this works, the Thripps are waiting in the wings.


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## Alasgun (Sep 7, 2018)

Ironically, based on the photos ive seen id say you could move them over to a soil medium and theyd do just fine. Mollassas alone would be enough for now to, nothing too complicated.


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## sopappy (Sep 7, 2018)

I started in soil and it was like a walk in the park. I tried hydro because discarding earth was becoming awkward to say the least. First few were okay and then I just hit a wall. Cognitive dissonance I guess but if I can't turn this around, it won't be hard unloading the hydro equipment after Oct

Funny you mention molassas. It's in the brewing tea as we speak but it's feeding the army I thought. What does it do for dirt?

I did spray the roots, stones and plug with the tea after 24 hours brewing yesterday and the difference this morning surprised me, no big snot drips!
So I'm pressing on and doing a reset with the tea and RO water after 48


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## Alasgun (Sep 7, 2018)

You are correct, mollassas is feeding the micro herd. Us dirt people think differently than the rest of you. You must provide every necessary element for proper growth and in the right propotions or is goes south. You have a narrow window of acceptability in this type of system.
Dirt people understand the importance of “feeding the soil” and the relationship that exist between the microbes and the plant roots. Some pretty scientific stuff going on in whats called the risosphere sp. but the important thing to remember is how good the microbes are at what they do!! Big take away for you, their doing a good job so you dont have to. 
Tell me about your tea process, how your brewing, ingredients etc. it might be easier than you think to turn this around. 
Once ive got a healthy thing going on in the soil i maintain that by using good tea once a month. In between ill add a tablespoon of mollassas to a gallon of water for the regular waterings.

A while back Mrs. Rosebud commented about you throwing the used dirt away, she asked that question because she knows how valuable the soil is and understands how to maintain AND improve that soil from grow to grow to grow.


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## sopappy (Sep 7, 2018)

I probably could have re-used the earth instead of dumping it but at the time I did all my research in internet cafes. I truly miss it, nothing quite as enjoyable as watering plants. I also miss the feel of dirt in my hands. My plants never went into shock after a transplant. They loved it haha

I bought a bag of worm castings, some MycoGrow Soluble and had molasses in the cupboard
(uncultured ***?)
1 gal RO, handful in cheesecloth, teaspoon myco, teaspoon molasses
bubbled for 24 hours, sprayed snotty roots aggressively
after 48, reset rez (but fucked up pH, used UP *and* DOWN but what else could I do, overshot the runway dammit and didn't want to let the army die)
Anyways, moving plants to "rinse" tub, I saw new roots and far less slime!!!!

New tub is RO water now at 5.5 40ppm, is that the herd?
... waiting 12 hours before nutes again
I'm thinking 500ppm or so isn't too high now if they keep bouncing back like this.


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## Alasgun (Sep 7, 2018)

Looks to me like your still riding the fence! All that ppm and ph crap goes out the window in a soil grow. Remember the part about the microbes doing a good job so you dont have to? Trust me, they know far more about getting that plant fed than we ever will.
Simple is better, simple is better. Yea many growers excell at yield, speed of growth etc using hydro methods but dirt people arent in a foot race! I would suspect if your adding ph chemicals, your doing harm to the microbes. In fact unless your looking at that tea with a microscope to be sure, you may not have much of a herd. Typically you generate and maintain microbial activity a little at a time. 
Jeff lowenfells , teaming with microbes is a good read if your trying to wrap your head around how it all works. The net is awash with this stuff too.


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## sopappy (Sep 8, 2018)

Infuriating. It was low in the tub 3.9 Why I rushed that part, I'll never figure out, stoned I guess, I was anxious to get the cavalry in there. 48 hours wasted. Another batch is on the go.


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## sopappy (Sep 16, 2018)

Rosebud said:


> sopappy, please consider going into dirt. Organic soil is so easy. no ph. Ya can't really mess it up too much.



Yup, I think it's time. I'm listening, alusgun, duck, I just hate to giving up is all but frankly,
I had better results with miracle grow and tomato fertilizer 5 years ago. Enough.

I tried hydro because the discarding dirt was a total pain. I'll be changing my research from algae and slime to reusable dirt. I also have a bag of worm casting and gobs of myco.. 
I'm also intrigued with the airpots...  if anybody knows of any good threads on any of this, i find there's far less ** here than most places.

I can't grow in hydro but I can germinate haha, 8 out of 8, only 1 didn't come up last time either, I finally master that shit and then come the water problems, F it, I should have listened to THG years ago.

These 8 are going in to dirt. Who makes the best dirt around here?
Can i compost indoors or is that asking for trouble?


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## pcduck (Sep 16, 2018)

I used Fox Farm Ocean Forest for a base years ago. Since then I have been re-using the same soil. 

Two 55 gallon trash cans works for cooking and storage.  I just add local compost to the soil and some soil additives from kelp4less.com.


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## Alasgun (Sep 16, 2018)

Glad to see your determination, you'll get there!
The basic concept "feed the soil not the plant" almost sounds to easy so read a little and dont make any large or fast moves?
Your gonna get advice on here one spoon full at a time, which is the way you'll grow them starts. Don't just dump a bunch of of this or that into a bag of dirt or you'll be trading one problem for another.
My experience is much less than most on here but im happy to share what worked and what didnt work too well.

Ffof is a good place to start, personally id add 1/3 promix just to weaken it some for them baby's. Unless your adding fish carcasses to the dirt, it will keep just fine in them trash cans and wont stink. If you have a garage floor, thats a great place to mix up a batch of soil.

Lots of good folks have followed your adventure, hopefully those same folks will come along directly with a spoon full of this or that. Go slow, its not a foot race!


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## sopappy (Sep 16, 2018)

Alasgun said:


> View attachment 250259
> Glad to see your determination, you'll get there!
> The basic concept "feed the soil not the plant" almost sounds to easy so read a little and dont make any large or fast moves?
> 
> ...



+++>I betchya I can't get that dirt in Canada


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## sopappy (Sep 16, 2018)

pcduck said:


> I used Fox Farm Ocean Forest for a base years ago. Since then I have been re-using the same soil.
> 
> Two 55 gallon trash cans works for cooking and storage.  I just add local compost to the soil and some soil additives from kelp4less.com.



I'm wondering if I'll just be hiding the pythium problem doing this  but I've had it with the tubs, maybe I'll use them for the compost bins.

Switching gears from hydro, days of reading hydro, hydro, hydro now I'm doing a 360
reading up on composting and re-using dirt. should be fun.


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## Alasgun (Sep 16, 2018)

Roots organic 707 is a fine mix as well, not too hot but certianly enough good stuff to get them babies going. Nothing else needed for a couple weeks too. Giving you a chance to make some sound decissions.

Remember, experience is what you get when you dont get what you want! 
Go slow and dont be too rambuncious sp, you’ll get there quicker!


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## Alasgun (Sep 16, 2018)

One more tidbit nen ill leave you alone, technically speaking most of the potting mixes out there come into the catagory of hydrophonic mediums! Not much “dirt/ soil “ in any of them. In the interest of keeping the farm afloat your gonna choose one and continue this grow. At the same time you can begin the process of putting together a batch of soil, call it super soil if you want, that will be the basis for future grows. This will take a couple months and by that time you’ll be a lot more comfortable with it.


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## sopappy (Sep 17, 2018)

The new batch of 8 are okay in the trays for a couple more weeks but I'm going to lose the 8 in trouble with the slime. I've been misting the roots removing the slime twice a day with weak H2O2, and they are hurting so I'm off to the grow store to see what they have I can use for a couple of months. Hopefully I'll have some "super" soil by flower time.

Again, thanks for the tips. I'm looking forward to enjoying going down there again instead of dreading it


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## Alasgun (Sep 17, 2018)

Put those problem children into soil and see what happens? They might do fine in the new environment. Your not out anything if they dont make it.


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## sopappy (Sep 17, 2018)

Picked up a couple of bags and moving the 8 sickies in to this stuff, fabric pots, 3L
I'm sitting them in the tub but draining to waste, no rez yet either, I miss hand watering.
I have some tea that hasn't hit 10 days yet... I'm using it when I transplant along with some fresh powder. I'm just using plain RO for now, tomorrow I'll bring ppm to 300-400 (us)


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## pcduck (Sep 18, 2018)

What do you mean by tea hasn't hit 10 days yet? 
Teas don't last that long.


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## sopappy (Sep 18, 2018)

pcduck said:


> What do you mean by tea hasn't hit 10 days yet?
> Teas don't last that long.



I read 10 days in the fridge... sigh


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## Alasgun (Sep 18, 2018)

Im with Pcduck, its long gone by then. However if refrigeration prevents it from going annerobic it may still have some value as a nutrient tea, depending on the starting ingredients.

And while we're picking on you tell me about the "fresh powder"?


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## sopappy (Sep 19, 2018)

I've decided against nutes for now, there is time release in that bag.
I can't get Foxfarm up here.
DutchMasterZlooks method looks like the most doable for me:

6 gallons promix BX   <===  does this have anything my bag doesn't and I should add?
4 gallons wormcasts 
1-cup bonemeal
1/2cup bloodmeal
and a bunch more perlite

This mix should get you threw 5+ weeks. you can start giving them sum organic "PureblendPro flow"around 3-4week twice a week till 6 weeks into flow then plain water till harvest.!

Simple's simple enough. I'll mix


Alasgun said:


> Im with Pcduck, its long gone by then. However if refrigeration prevents it from going annerobic it may still have some value as a nutrient tea, depending on the starting ingredients.
> 
> And while we're picking on you tell me about the "fresh powder"?



haha, the myco stuff I get comes in a small bag of blackish powder
I moistened the dirt for the transplant, as long as it doesn't hurt anything...
they still look in shock this morning, I think they're giving up

pick away! what I do to this plant is outrageous.


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## Alasgun (Sep 19, 2018)

Your fist line made my day. "Ive decided against nutes fir now". I was nervous that you might swing the pendulium hard the other direction and dump a bunch of stuff on em that furthered your problem.

Bx is good, contains myco which is what i hoped your answer about "the fresh powder" would be, great.

If this were my science project, id disolve a tablespoon of unsulphered molassas in a gallon of water and water them babies with this for a couple weeks, nothing else. While your at it, roll that bottle over and read the ingredients, you'll notice its very similar to lots of bottled nute formulas.

Tell us about your light, T5 would be perfect during this phase, all the rest are fine too long as they are not too close, causing light stress.

I sure hope this comes together for you, be patient we are talking about a weed here!


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## sopappy (Sep 19, 2018)

The interesting thing I read about nutes once was to think of them as vitamins, a little late for that when you're already sick and just want to sip chicken noodle soup.

I was unclear, I am not using BX, see post above pcduck's head up there 
If the only thing BX got that I ain't got is Myco... I just got 4oz today, anything else my bag is missing?

unsulphered molassas... wow, am i ever nervous about using that,
some myco with that? right now, I added in weak cal/mag and I'm just maybe a cup around the plant for now, they look small in there

T5s yes, I've been gentle a foot to TWO feet
I know they look like hell but you should have seen them yesterday, thought they were goners


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## sopappy (Sep 19, 2018)

Lost this post somehow.... these all came up, 4 NL5, 4 bc big bud
2 of 4 are deformed. I coated seeds in Mycogrow is only thing different
these are getting off to a much better start, no nutes


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## Alasgun (Sep 19, 2018)

Im not familiar with the lambert but it looks fine to me. I only use mycos in the hole at transplanting, spray it good with a mister bottle and be sure it comes in contact with the roots. Personally i dont apply any after that. Your past that now so dont worry about it.

Dont be nervous about the mollassas, roll that bottle over and read the ingredients, lots of calcium, mag, phos, and everything else thats important. Some say certian nute companies rebottle and rebrand mollassas with few if any additions. I dont know but i can assure you it wont hurt the plants. Tablespoon per gallon for now.

Get that T5 down with in 1 to 5 inches of the tallest plant, block the short ones up to that level. It encourages root growth and lateral distribution of the cannopy. They'll be fine. You cant get the other grow lights right down on em like that. They say the light is the food and them t5s arent all that strong, so to realize maximum gain they need to be close. Also pile on more soil, right up to the bottom leaves, keep doing that till the pots full. Are them 3s or 5 gallon pots? Think tomatoes, you lay them over or their side and cover the stem clear up to the top and they grow roots along the whole length, roots good, root good!

When i look at them babies i dont see big problems, what i see is plants that had a rough start, evedinced by the crappy lower leaves. Then i see new good looking growth above the crappy and if you just transplanted outa that poision soup you had going just a day or so ago, id be damm happy with where your at.

Trust me, you aint out nothin, lower the light and water with the mollassas only for a couple weeks. Keep pictures coming, about a week apart then we can all look at where you been and where your at then. Im hoping some of the real experts'll chime in and teach us both something?

Heck you gonna be entering em in the state fair in a couple months!!

P.s, thanks for letting me come along with you on this!


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## pcduck (Sep 20, 2018)

Besure to get/use the unsulphurated mollasses. I only use molasses when I brew my tea, jump starts the microbes.

T-5's get them close, just a few inches.

A simple tea brewer:

https://www.marijuanapassion.com/threads/5-gallon-micro-brewer-diy.71394/


An advanced brew guide. 

https://www.marijuanapassion.com/threads/brew-guide.75527/


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## sopappy (Sep 20, 2018)

pcduck said:


> Besure to get/use the unsulphurated mollasses. I only use molasses when I brew my tea, jump starts the microbes.
> 
> T-5's get them close, just a few inches.
> 
> ...



I didn't look for unsulphered last time, friggin details
http://www.whfoods.com/genpage.php?tname=dailytip&dbid=88

TEA STUFF   niiiiiice, thanks, pcduck! great timing
I'm assuming I can give the new batch some tea when the cotyledons turn


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## sopappy (Sep 20, 2018)

Alasgun said:


> Im not familiar with the lambert but it looks fine to me. I only use mycos in the hole at transplanting, spray it good with a mister bottle and be sure it comes in contact with the roots. Personally i dont apply any after that. Your past that now so dont worry about it.
> 
> Dont be nervous about the mollassas, roll that bottle over and read the ingredients, lots of calcium, mag, phos, and everything else thats important. Some say certian nute companies rebottle and rebrand mollassas with few if any additions. I dont know but i can assure you it wont hurt the plants. Tablespoon per gallon for now.
> 
> ...



check all of the above, thanks
well, I've lost time to shock but at least there's life in the room
and it's more fun going in there now

it'll likely break your heart how I cure these, they won't be fair material 
and I'm not into strains, I wish to **** they'd settle down with that, I think way to much breeding and seeds are suffering. Sure, I'm a spaz grower but losing batches of 8 at a time is ridiculous
look at the 2 deformed ones up there whattheheck?

lowering the lamps, thanks again, lads


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## sopappy (Sep 20, 2018)

mr duck, your brewer with the monster air pump is next on my list
I have the air pump, looks same as your beast...
Those things are hugely noisy even hanging in the air with bungie cords,
seems too warm to put in a box, a lid on the bubbler helps too a bit

does that connection from the air pump have to be a 90 or can I use a handy ebb&flo drain and bend the hose up?


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## pcduck (Sep 20, 2018)

The 90 allows for the base to sit flat at the bottom of the bucket. You want it flat.


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## sopappy (Sep 20, 2018)

pcduck said:


> Besure to get/use the unsulphurated mollasses. I only use molasses when I brew my tea, jump starts the microbes.



Jeeze, I jumped on that quick & easy tbl/gal water mix Alasgun suggested. Strictly for the microbes you say, why not in the soil? anything scary or does it just conflict with your regimen?


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## Alasgun (Sep 20, 2018)

People have their own opinions, some vary.
I use the mol in microbe tea also but then once you brew up a bunch of microbes what do you do with them? You dump um on the dirt where they go to work. When you water with mol/ water you dump it on the dirt too, nen the microbes  utilize it. Theres more than one type of tea, i use microbe tea the most but my ingredients are such that if theres not one microbe in there the plants still benifit from a nutrient tea!
Go ahead a roll that bottle over and read the ingredients,, your plants love all that stuff.

At some point youll develop an opinion of your own, once you have some good experience to go off of.


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## sopappy (Sep 20, 2018)

trimmed the necrotic, topped up and watered with the molasses mix
They don't look half bad, just stunted, but the stems are solid, I can bat them around after a mist
I also changed to 18/6 since the transplant


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## sopappy (Sep 20, 2018)

I may have these two strains mixed up but my guess is the NL5 is doing just swell but look at the 2 deformed BC big bud monstrosities!


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## sopappy (Sep 20, 2018)

pcduck said:


> The 90 allows for the base to sit flat at the bottom of the bucket. You want it flat.



check

VENT: I actually spent about an hour looking in 4 stores for PVC pipe and fittings. NOTHING.
And my Amurican chum has the parts laying around. We got nuthin' up here and if you do find it, it's twice as expensive.


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## Alasgun (Sep 20, 2018)

You got amazon?


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## sopappy (Sep 20, 2018)

Amazon.ca is not Amazon
I see tips here and search Amazon.ca with the same description and get a book about it.
I can order from Amazon.com but never free shipping and brokerage.
It's not just amazon, the whole damn country is going to the dogs, I couldn't source PVC pipe and or fittings today for pete's sake. 
Sorry, I'm still quite stunned by that. Maybe I'll try again tomorrow straight.


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## Alasgun (Sep 20, 2018)

Early on i ran a piece of hose from the air pump down imto the bucket fastened to a hunk of steel to keep it on the bottom and pointed away from the side, worked fine.

I run two of these tea machines, the big bopper can be seen elsewhere and its for when i need 40 gal!

The little booper is a large air pump plumbed via hose down to a straight piece of 1/2 pvc pipe i bent to a 90 with a heat gun, it works fine too. 

Id not make as much outa the delivery method as its more about having enough air. Google compost tea brewer (images) and you'll go to sleep looking at the variety thats out there. 

Mr. Ducks version is certianly popular and effective but so are at least a dozen other styles. Simple is good.


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## sopappy (Sep 20, 2018)

Alasgun said:


> People have their own opinions, some vary.
> I use the mol in microbe tea also but then once you brew up a bunch of microbes what do you do with them? You dump um on the dirt where they go to work. When you water with mol/ water you dump it on the dirt too, nen the microbes  utilize it. Theres more than one type of tea, i use microbe tea the most but my ingredients are such that if theres not one microbe in there the plants still benifit from a nutrient tea!
> Go ahead a roll that bottle over and read the ingredients,, your plants love all that stuff.
> 
> At some point youll develop an opinion of your own, once you have some good experience to go off of.



First thing I did when i came here was start a thread called Myths or something like that. I was researching in Internet Cafes. It was difficult separating the the gems from the rubble. 
've never been steered wrong here. I was more prying out more info than questioning your's.
pcduck doesn't ramble on like we do , it's like pulling teeth  
I think that was momentary hydro rez panic haha, I do remember concluding not a good idea to add it to a rez though. I'm okay with the molasses regimen but I'm tempted to add cal/mag if I see yellow again.

I'm still confused about organic nutrition especially now that the tea is once every 3-4 weeks,
I thought I'd be watering daily with it, not sure why I thought that.
so it's RO and some grow nutes and I measure runoff for pH.... 
but I can't water them to runoff, they're too small in those huge pots
another fine mess I've got myself into, jezus


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## sopappy (Sep 20, 2018)

QUOTE="Alasgun, post: 1040836, member: 56999"]Early on i ran a piece of hose from the air pump down imto the bucket fastened to a hunk of steel to keep it on the bottom and pointed away from the side, worked fine.

>>> almost a chat here, Alasgun. I just read metal in a bucket ain't good, leeching

I run two of these tea machines, the big bopper can be seen elsewhere and its for when i need 40 gal!

The little booper is a large air pump plumbed via hose down to a straight piece of 1/2 pvc pipe i bent to a 90 with a heat gun, it works fine too.

Id not make as much outa the delivery method as its more about having enough air. Google compost tea brewer (images) and you'll go to sleep looking at the variety thats out there.

Mr. Ducks version is certianly popular and effective but so are at least a dozen other styles. Simple is good.

>>> That's a venturi he's got going there.


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## Alasgun (Sep 20, 2018)

Being a machinist and having a machine shop in my garage, stainless steel is not hard to come by, i didnt mention that part.

Im in 15 gallon pots this time and am finding i only water 1 time a week! I dont own a ph meter and have a ppm meter around here somewhere but never use it.

If your a reader, study up on the part the microbes play and itll make more sense to you. Thay live in a symbiotic relationship with the roots. Rootes put off exudates (sp) that the bugs eat and in turn the bug poos out stuff the plant likes. During the process ph is stabilised. Therefore no need for a meter!! This is grossly over simplified mainly because i cant remember or spell the big words!

The other part of the equation is perception and interpertation. Ive never read anything PCDuck has written that struck me as odd or full of huey. Non of us know each other, very well and this adds a bit of complication also. I honestly believe everyone whos joined in on this wants to see you succeed! 

I cant speak for everyone but im having a lot of fun with this too!


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## Alasgun (Sep 20, 2018)

Speaking about rambling on, several pages ago you mentioned not looking for un sulphered mol. I meant to throw in but probably got to rambling in a different direction.
Sulpher is a great insecticide, your microbes are microscopic imsects, see the connection?

Now that your sphincter has relaxed a bit lets start looking at next week or a month from now.
Are those the final pots or will you move them again? They look like at least 5s and if so will be fine.
When you move from mol water into more complex food what will you use? Early on i used general organic grow and bloom as a stand alone nute and got great results. Some have the red arse at them for selling out to bayer (monsanto) but in the interest of completing a fine grow, it would be ok just this once.
Talk about the light, probably gonna want more than a t5 in a couple weeks.


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## pcduck (Sep 21, 2018)

Unless you have heat problems run you lights 24/7, reduces stretch.


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## sopappy (Sep 21, 2018)

pcduck said:


> Unless you have heat problems run you lights 24/7, reduces stretch.



Agreed, I'm normally 24/7. I actually want a little stretch right now. that's why i had the lights so high.


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## sopappy (Sep 21, 2018)

QUOTE="Alasgun, post: 1040840, member: 56999"]Being a machinist and having a machine shop in my garage, stainless steel is not hard to come by, i didnt mention that part.

Im in 15 gallon pots this time and am finding i only water 1 time a week! I dont own a ph meter and have a ppm meter around here somewhere but never use it.

If your a reader, study up on the part the microbes play and itll make more sense to you. Thay live in a symbiotic relationship with the roots. Rootes put off exudates (sp) that the bugs eat and in turn the bug poos out stuff the plant likes. During the process ph is stabilised. Therefore no need for a meter!! This is grossly over simplified mainly because i cant remember or spell the big words!

===> I didn't know about the pH or ppm for that matter... interesting... I've been trying to use the myco for years, seems to me I get that right and things will fall in to place. I read all manner of folks that insisted it was okay to use in hydro. I'm not so sure now, probably should have heeded duck's warning but I was looking for quick fixes.

The other part of the equation is perception and interpertation. Ive never read anything PCDuck has written that struck me as odd or full of huey. Non of us know each other, very well and this adds a bit of complication also. I honestly believe everyone whos joined in on this wants to see you succeed!

===> I read probably too much and get overwhelmed, the devil is in the details.

I cant speak for everyone but im having a lot of fun with this too!

===> as long as you're having fun. As much as I value this place, I know I get tiresome and wear most of them out with my issues but there's always some keener who jumps in and gets the ball rolling

You and duck are saving my crop... gotta be some satisfaction in that too
Thanks!


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## sopappy (Sep 21, 2018)

QUOTE="Alasgun, post: 1040841, member: 56999"]Speaking about rambling on, several pages ago you mentioned not looking for un sulphered mol. I meant to throw in but probably got to rambling in a different direction.
Sulpher is a great insecticide, your microbes are microscopic imsects, see the connection?

===> sunuvabitch! why oh why, after all my reading, did I not stumble across that little gem.
Insecticide!!??! for the love of pete, do the Liberals know, they'll ban molasses now!
Dammit, I looked for unsulfered but couldn't find it so i just bought what was there.
((Damn idiots, why the hell is there a separate section for organic food in a grocery store???, how the hell would i know you had it?))


Now that your sphincter has relaxed a bit

===> it's worse

lets start looking at next week or a month from now.

===> I do not know what to feed the new ones when the cotyledons change, mol water?

Are those the final pots or will you move them again? They look like at least 5s and if so will be fine.

===> I thought they were 3 (I must STOP doing this, I'll go and check)
I tore the labels off haha... 22gal bag filled 8 x 3...    3 GAL pots
I doubt they'll outgrow it, I'm LEDs

When you move from mol water into more complex food what will you use?

===> I have synthetics left, 3part flora, koolbloom, cal/mag
I'm confused about the TEAS though but I found the Organic thread.

Early on i used general organic grow and bloom as a stand alone nute and got great results. Some have the red arse at them for selling out to bayer (monsanto) but in the interest of completing a fine grow, it would be ok just this once.

Talk about the light, probably gonna want more than a t5 in a couple weeks.

===> I'm ready. I wanted to build one but


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## Alasgun (Sep 21, 2018)

Ive never used 3s so i cant say. 7s were my smallest. they'll be fine and this is one of them things you'll form an opinion on and possibly change next time, or not.
Personally i go with mol/ water for  2 to 3 weeks before including any bottled nutes. I say including because the mol is part of the nutes and stays in the mix thru flowering. 
Flora  3 part has a good reputation but its a lomg way from organic. Use it an then go thru all that flushing crap at the end which a lot of folks have no objection to. Back up to the part, i grow for a sick wife; so it completely organic around here.

Tea can be as simple or complicated as you make it. On the simple end you can stuff a slice of Alfafa hay in a bucket full of water and let it set for a week, or till the horse piss smell runs you out and get great results. If you try this dilute it some or you'll get a nute burn, alfafa's pretty strong stuff.

On the other end you'll come across some of the most complicated procedures you can imagine, all of which i choose to ignore.

A couple times now you've mentioned confusing info on other sites or made comments about missing something you read thru, dude your just as normal as the rest of them! My observation is that the complication usually comes when folks parrot something the heard and then cant elaborate cause they never really proved it out in a grow.
I found an over 10 page nute comparrison once, great reading, then i found the same article 2 more times written word for word cept it now had different authors and was presented on different sites. Go figure, someone just looking for some glory.

I openly admit to not being the sharpest tool in the shed and listen quietly when folks talk about areas i have no experience in. good example is the 24/7 light thing, you and Pcduck mentioned earlier. Ive never gone there simply cause i wanted the babies to have a nap sometimes, and know how hard no sleep is on me! Told you im not too sharp!!!


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## Rosebud (Sep 22, 2018)

What a great thread with great help. Just awesome. We are lucky to have Duck, the organic guru and i am very happy to have you alasgun here too.  We have been using the tea weekly outdoors. I think this will be our last week to feed. Mojo to you sopappy!


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## sopappy (Sep 23, 2018)

Hi Rose, yup, I'm still struggling so I'm back whining again.
I thought I'd pretty much wore everybody out but still some here that'll have at me


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## sopappy (Sep 23, 2018)

They are not growing.
maybe lots of root activity going on but I said the same in hydro
my guess is runamock pythium going on down there.

I'm getting fu'd by these big pots. I am only watering a circle around the plant, maybe a cup each, mol water. I have yet to see any runoff, but I'm fearing it'll never dry out if I soak it, they sure won't drink it all. BUT I'm going to hit each with a litre (quart) of weak cal/mag and then foliar spray some mol water

UPDATE: 
that top picture is the most recent, same old, same old, the walking dead again
run off was 6.3  1100ppm light was on top of them, 7/24 again
This must be the 4th grow in a row that has done this, what an effing loser, 100% germ to watch them slowly die. I'm really starting to hate this shit now.


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## sopappy (Sep 23, 2018)

On the bright side... I am thrilled with my germ set-up, something works!
but I always get this far, really, 90-100 % germ now but they go WALKING DEAD on me, see other crop in the bags.

I want to start nuting these, they are going in to dirt (time release) soon
((I'm thinking I should pick an intermediate size before those 3 gal re the waterin'))

I have some synthetics left... use it?
mol water?
weak cal/mag foliar? or should I put that away and use epsom salts?

UPDATE: newest shot at the top...
and here's what these pos are doing, looks like a molybdenum deficiency of all things, I mean really? what the *********** next?


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## pcduck (Sep 23, 2018)

Using large pots makes it harder when just starting.

Water the pot till water run off. The roots will seek out the best area for their needs.

If growing organic, do not use synthetics. If not growing organically, your soil should have enough nutes for a month or more before adding ferts.

 I would not add anything for awhile,  unless using R/O. Then I would add organic cal/mg to the water


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## Alasgun (Sep 23, 2018)

They look pretty dry from here!


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## sopappy (Sep 23, 2018)

pcduck said:


> Using large pots makes it harder when just starting.
> 
> Water the pot till water run off. The roots will seek out the best area for their needs.
> 
> ...



I still have a quart of synthetic cal/mag to use up, will it hurt anything?


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## sopappy (Sep 23, 2018)

Alasgun said:


> They look pretty dry from here!



that settles it, 2 quarts each of weak cal/mag'd RO coming up


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## Alasgun (Sep 23, 2018)

The only synthetic i like is the elastic in my underwear! So i'll leave that one alone.
As previously mentioned, im in 15 gal pots, and at the start they got 1 1/2 gallon each and since then they get A little over a qt once a week, im sure that will increase as they grow. I like the water retention im seeing in the large pots. 

This meter is the best ive seen, amazon and under $30 if i remember correctly. Im not sure how accurate the ph side reads, i didnt buy it for thet but the moisture meter is very easy to use and i have complete confidence in it. Them 15s are tight in the white house from a "just lift it to see if it needs water standpoint."


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## sopappy (Sep 24, 2018)

I have a quart left and don't know anybody else growing. 
I had about 1 quart run off from all 8 after watering measuring 6.3 pH and 1100 ppm
I'm in a bit of a quandry as to what to feed the next batch coming up.
But I have time, some synthetics to use up.


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## sopappy (Sep 25, 2018)

Both grows are packing it in. I thought it would be more obvious grouped with the previous pictures. See top pics #98 and #99 ... this is truly pathetic. I'm going to watch a horror movie where people get slaughtered instead of plants.


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## sopappy (Oct 5, 2018)

By gar, I think they might make it. The bigger pots are just the all purpose organic bag, RO water and I dumped my last batch of tea a week ago.
2nd picture a tad closer, you can see different node lengths (rough start)
Would you trim these?
I'm carrying on with just with RO water, 5.5 runoff 900ppm (do I try and pH?)
tea again in another week 







they look pretty good yet I clobbered my microbes with synthetic cal/mag
small wonder I screw this up... whaaaa? are they feeding on the dead microbes?


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## sopappy (Oct 10, 2018)

dammit, I see why duck sez so little... how did I miss "organic cal/mag"? I glossed over it thinking I had cal/mag I wanted to use up (I have an unopened bottle, msg me, pay shipping, it's yours if you're a member I've locked horns with  I have other hydro stuff too.

I'm a Jeff Lowen... convert. Going organic so re-doing the rooms, I started another thread in room design  called "bed" gardening, thanks all who chipped in here!!


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## sopappy (Oct 22, 2018)

My bed ain't here yet and the soil won't be ready for weeks anyways so I have these two grows to finish off in soil. Had a couple nice runs with these two so far. 100% germ and 50% males so far. I expected this kind of growth in hydro , how ironic.
Unless it's just been sooo long since I've seen a healthy plant.


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## sopappy (Oct 22, 2018)

I'm making some soil and have it "cooking" now. I'm supposed to mix it up every few days and keep it moist.
I noticed it wasn't warm at all so I added a mat and keep it around 75-80. Very wet next day, lid was wet. It is wetter than it was to start with ???  according to my metre.
I'm I screwing up already?


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## Alasgun (Oct 22, 2018)

When i make a batch of soil, it all gets stirred as the ammendments are being added, on the garage floor. Then it goes into a 32 gsl. Brute container and gets a gallon of tea and a gallon of milk / mollasses dumped on top and the lid goes on. The lid doesnt come off again till im ready to use it, 2 or 3 months latter. Got some going now that wont be used till spring, same procedure.

No heat mats either.


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## sopappy (Oct 23, 2018)

that's a lot of liquid, I guess I don't have to worry much about some moisture under the lid 
I'm keeping it around 30C with the mat trying to rush it, 
I'm hoping usable in less than 2 months. 

It seems me the best use of that soil is in flower, 
Both grows look fine to me with all purpose, mol, and tea
I'm tempted to do my vegging in just that.

(can't coast in there, stoners make lousy growers, 
I absentmindedly sanitized 8 rooter plugs)


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## pcduck (Oct 23, 2018)

For a 30 day cook, re-mix every 3 days.


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## sopappy (Oct 23, 2018)

pcduck said:


> For a 30 day cook, re-mix every 3 days.



OK
(I'd do it daily if I thought it would speed things)


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## Polo (Oct 23, 2018)

Every 3 day is better. It allows the fungus mycelium to grow thru your soil medium.


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## sopappy (Oct 24, 2018)

Polo said:


> Every 3 day is better. It allows the fungus mycelium to grow thru your soil medium.



I'm glad you brought that up. It seems counter intuitive to "till" at all. We give them 3 days to weave their web and then go in and mess it all up. Why?


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## Polo (Oct 24, 2018)

We do it so that the fungus mycelium is spread thru out the soil mix fully. By breaking up the web when stirring you actually help it to spread faster in the soil


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## sopappy (Oct 28, 2018)

SO glad I tried organic, thanks for that to all concerned. I used to dread going down there some days.
I'm motoring along on just molasses and tea. I think these last batches, some microbes actually made to the plants alive  
I had to spread last 4L batch (of tea) amongst 4 females , 4 younguns (under cob) and 8 unsexed under my old LEDs 
(all 24/7, off to dry after leaves wet)
It looks like the 4 under the COB want more, they only got a litre.
Saw a dude on youtube put ONLY compost tea bag and NO AGITATION, just sat for 1.5 hrs and "chocolate milk")
any risk in topping up with this? e-coli maybe?
or just go with RO and molasses?


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## sopappy (Oct 28, 2018)

Getting my hands dirty with the 3 day web destruction...
I'd like to get in there with my hands up to elbows, but just dishwashing gloves and healing cuts and scrapes, not exactly air tight.... 
should I be using a shovel? jeeze i could google this
nope, nothing.
how bad are these bugs for people?


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## Alasgun (Oct 28, 2018)

The first thing that comes to mind is that all your future children will be born naked, yep and theres nothing you can do about it! Seriously though, reasonable precaution is all that necessary. Studies show that kids who "play in the dirt" are healthier and have less colds etc than more sterile (city) kids. To a degree the microbes are good for us. You were probably full of them even before you started growing weed!

Nice fungi!


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## sopappy (Oct 28, 2018)

oh. I stumbled across some e coli threads and over-reacted


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