# gravel and pvc in soil pots for more o2?



## 707NewGenGrower (Mar 28, 2011)

i know people put sand or gravel in bottom of beds with pvc in them to increase the o2 the roots receive. i was wondering if anyone has tried this method in indvidual pots (3 and 5 gal pots).
thanks!


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## niteshft (Mar 28, 2011)

I think in outdoor beds it's primaraly for drainage. It would increas the oxy level by keeping the soil from becoming stagnant. I don't see it being usefull in pots because of the limited moisture available and watering will keep the cycle going.


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## Roddy (Mar 28, 2011)

Judging by the root balls from my plants, there's little room in a pot for much more than good quality soil and the plant....


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## 707NewGenGrower (Mar 28, 2011)

thanks for advice


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## OGKushman (Mar 28, 2011)

Vaca or Fairfield?


Welcome!


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## load3dic3 (Mar 28, 2011)

Roddy said:
			
		

> Judging by the root balls from my plants, there's little room in a pot for much more than good quality soil and the plant....



:yeahthat:


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## Dewayne (Mar 30, 2011)

You can actually add hydrogen peroxide to your watering jug about 4 caps per litre of water to bring the oxygen level up in your soil. and yes gravel and stuff is just for drainage which also helps for oxygenating the plants because the more it drains the more you water with oxygen enriched water. 

also hydrogen peroxide can keep your soil cleaned out from the non-benificial bacteria. If you experience any algae or mold in the soil it helps greatly.


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## ozzydiodude (Mar 30, 2011)

do a search on "Earth grow boxes" and you will see a old style planter that has a water res in the bottom that has air space also they work great for growing MJ too


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## The Hemp Goddess (Mar 30, 2011)

I think it is important to have some kind of drainage layer at the bottom of your pots.  I have never used PVC, but have different kinds of things I use for a drainage layer in all my container gardens that I have.


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## Wetdog (Mar 30, 2011)

Dewayne said:
			
		

> also hydrogen peroxide can keep your soil cleaned out from the non-benificial bacteria. If you experience any algae or mold in the soil it helps greatly.



It will also wipe out your beneficial bacteria as well.:doh: 

Not so hot for any organic use.

Wet


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## Dewayne (Mar 30, 2011)

Yep sure will, but if you have more bad bacteria that's growing you need to do something, most the time i use peroxide on my soil before i grow with it, then  i start giving it molasses to get the beneficial bacteria back up.

Great sterilization method though.


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## blondeboy (Mar 30, 2011)

I can relate to that because I put lime as a fertilizer in my mix of supper soil. So lime stone would add nutrition to your plant  This year, I cut up some straw and place it on top of my plant and it's looks so much healthier.  I think it's because it retains the moisture much better then without.


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## proto (Mar 30, 2011)

i read an article years ago maybe in high times that described somas growing method in witch he built 3x3 grow beds on wheels with pvc pipe in the corners for air flow and 6 inches of crushed stone on the bottom root cloth on top of that and then 14 inches or so of soil. he claimed that the roots love the o2 i have tried it in a 3x3 bed with great results  and am currently trying it with a couple plants in 3 gallon pots.


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## cubby (Mar 30, 2011)

I always put something in the bottom couple inches of my potted plants to aid in drainage and aeration. I use whatever's handy, pea grvel, lava rocks, broken up terra cotta pots (always have plenty of those), pretty much anything that will prevent compaction and increase drainage.


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## BBFan (Mar 30, 2011)

Call the mythbusters!!!!!!!!  Gravel at the bottom of a pot is another gardening myth that just won't die!

Adding gravel to the bottom of pots does nothing but take up room in your pot that should be used for soil!

You want to improve the drainage of your soil add organic matter or perlite.

Following the wet/dry cycle is probably the best way to get air to your roots, provided you have a good medium.

For those who doubt, and I know there are many- try this- put a sponge on top of a pile of dirt and one on top of a pile of gravel and see which one drains faster.


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## Wetdog (Mar 31, 2011)

BBFan said:
			
		

> Call the mythbusters!!!!!!!!  Gravel at the bottom of a pot is another gardening myth that just won't die!
> 
> Adding gravel to the bottom of pots does nothing but take up room in your pot that should be used for soil!
> 
> ...


:yeahthat: :goodposting: 

I agree, but with this myth, it seems it's something that has to be busted by experience on the growers part.

Wet


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## proto (Apr 2, 2011)

BBFan said:
			
		

> Call the mythbusters!!!!!!!!  Gravel at the bottom of a pot is another gardening myth that just won't die!
> 
> Adding gravel to the bottom of pots does nothing but take up room in your pot that should be used for soil!
> 
> ...


you don't put the stone in your beds to improve drainage and you don't lose much space  at all since the roots grow right into the crushed stone witch creates a nice semi-dry area high in o2 that the roots appear to love. and as far as your sponge theory that would only test absorption not drainage,the test should be fill a pot with soil and one with crushed stone and then pour a glass of water in each and measure the time from when the water enters the pot and leaves it. i think it's obvious witch would drain faster witch again is not why you would put the stone in anyway


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## BBFan (Apr 2, 2011)

proto said:
			
		

> you don't put the stone in your beds to improve drainage and you don't lose much space  at all since the roots grow right into the crushed stone witch creates a nice semi-dry area high in o2 that the roots appear to love. and as far as your sponge theory that would only test absorption not drainage,the test should be fill a pot with soil and one with crushed stone and then pour a glass of water in each and measure the time from when the water enters the pot and leaves it. i think it's obvious witch would drain faster witch again is not why you would put the stone in anyway


 
But your not growing in a bucket of stones are you?  The point of the sponge test- which would (for this experiment) act as your medium- the result is that they will both drain at the same rate.

But like I said _proto_- most won't believe me (or a few dozen studies by universities either).  To each his own.  I used to believe it too.  But emptying the pots at the end of the run showed me otherwise.

If it works for you, then keep doing it!


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## 707NewGenGrower (Apr 2, 2011)

any update on how the 3 gal pots are doin proto?


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## BBFan (Apr 2, 2011)

Proto-
Having re-read your original post I must apologize to you.  Sorry.  I was referring more to the posts regarding the drainage benefits, but I  now realize that's not what you were discussing.

So I get the set-up.  The soil can't pass through the fabric barrier, but the roots can.  So I see how this would keep the roots from "circling" the pot making for a more effective root system;  but as they hit and penetrate the fabric liner, don't they "air-prune" ?  I mean, is it really adding more O2 to the roots?  Do they really grow into the gravel?

I'm trying my first run using air pots.  Do you think the method you mention is more effective?

Again- sorry I didn't get your post the first time around.


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## proto (Apr 2, 2011)

i did some autos in 1 gal pots with this method and when i pulled the root ball out the sunleaves rocks i used came out as one big mass of nice white roots and when i shook them all out i could not believe how many roots it had. the 2 in 3 gal pots have done great except for having to prune the hell out of them. both plants(2 diff strains) put on a lot more plant mass in veg and in the first half of flowering,should have done a scrog and trained them better. i'll put some pics of them in my gj and pics of the roots at harvest. not saying it's the end all beat all but i think it's better than just soil. i would like to try the air pots i have been hearing a lot of good things and will probably pick up a couple soon and run a side by side test with some clones. peace all.


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## Roddy (Apr 2, 2011)

Even in my 20 gal tubs, the rootballs are the entire mass at harvest...not much soil to re-capture. Had I put in less oil and some rocks, well.....


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## Jper6647 (Sep 23, 2013)

I am new, but if perlite and vermiculite are nothing more than clay and volcanic glass. They don't absorb water, but more less drain it right?  I don't think they impart more than a fractional mineral difference do they?  So I might try pea Gravel in my first mix.  Right now its about 10% sand, 10% Sphagnum, 5% dry crushed corn cob, 40% Pete, 35% organic potting mix.  It seems like a good Idea if it creates an aeration tunnel for the roots.


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## sunakard2000 (Sep 23, 2013)

pea gravel in your soil mix? uhmm no... use perlite, it works great and no they dont absorb water they act as drainage, and reason its better then pea gravel is the pea gravel are soild rocks, perlite is not soild its actually cooked and expanded so the water passes through not just around the perlite...


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## The Hemp Goddess (Sep 23, 2013)

Jper6647 said:
			
		

> I am new, but if perlite and vermiculite are nothing more than clay and volcanic glass. They don't absorb water, but more less drain it right?  I don't think they impart more than a fractional mineral difference do they?  So I might try pea Gravel in my first mix.  Right now its about 10% sand, 10% Sphagnum, 5% dry crushed corn cob, 40% Pete, 35% organic potting mix.  It seems like a good Idea if it creates an aeration tunnel for the roots.


 
I'm with Sunakard on the pea gravel--it simply is not the same as perlite and vermiculite (which are also not the same and cannot be interchanged).  And just so you know, vermiculite does retain water.  I also never use sand in my soil mixtures.  I also think that is too much peat (peat is acidic).  I know nothing about using crushed corn cobs.  I would recommend that you use a soil mixture that is tried and true, rather than trying to make one up from stuff you have lying around.  Cannabis is a high energy plant and has some very specific nutrient needs.  I use a base soil that I get from Home Depot that is inexpensive and quite good.  It is organic and has enough goodies in it to get the plants through the first several weeks.  After that I use a super soil and supplement with teas.  Are you planning on growing organic?  If so, what are you planning on feeding them?


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## ozzydiodude (Sep 23, 2013)

Check the soil mixes thread in my sig it will give you a better idea of what you need in your soil mix for the mj plant to be all it can be.


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## Jper6647 (Sep 23, 2013)

Well thats the formula I have.  Don't know what I could add to the mix to take down the ph, but I should test it with some strips first.  I did a lil fine styrofoam but other than that same as above.  I could care less about organic, just results this time.  It is a nice airy and light medium that should drain well, and be pretty neutral in ph, with some minor organic nutes present.  I guess I will stay liquid supplement to stay on the safeside if a flush need be.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Sep 23, 2013)

Jper6647 said:
			
		

> Well thats the formula I have.  Don't know what I could add to the mix to take down the ph, but I should test it with some strips first.  I did a lil fine styrofoam but other than that same as above.  I could care less about organic, just results this time.  It is a nice airy and light medium that should drain well, and be pretty neutral in ph, with some minor organic nutes present.  I guess I will stay liquid supplement to stay on the safeside if a flush need be.


 
Are you saying that you got this soil recipe somewhere?  If so where?  Why this particular recipe?  What does each ingredient contribute to the mixture?

I am thinking that the pH may need to be raised--peat is quite acidic. However, every good soil mixture should contain lime to help buffer the pH.

If you use chemical nutes, you are going to need to pH your water and nute solution to 6.3-6.8.  The plants will not need food for a few weeks though.


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## pcduck (Sep 24, 2013)

Pea gravel works, but it has to be crushed into a fine powder(rock dust), it adds minerals.

I would not use pea gravel as a aerator, I use perilite for that. Pea gravel is heavy, perilite is not.


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