# Need assistance mixing Flora Series nutes



## ArtVandolay

Could someone PM me that is willing to try to answer a few questions about mixing nutes?  This my 1st hydro (hempy, see my gj link below) grow.  Despite all the reading I've done, I still don't have a basic understanding of mixing nutes.  I bought the GH Flora Series 3 part stuff.

For example, the GH website says for seedlings, use 1/4 tsp of each in a gallon of water and for
veg, 3 tsp Grow, 2 tsp Micro and 1 tsp Bloom in a gallon of water.

Does this sound right?  I have no clue what I'm doing.

Also, is there any helpful reading anyone can point me to that I may have missed?  I'm confident I would find something titled "Intro to Hydroponic Nutrients" very helpful .


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## NorCalHal

Don't worry Art, once you mix it a few times, it will be second nature.

First things first.. ALLWAYS mix you GH nuits in this order..Brown(micro),Green(grow) then Red (bloom). This is neded to have all the nuits "bond" correctly.

Remember, Brown,Green,Red.

Also, NEVER let the nuits touch each other in an unmixed form, as it will react.
So, just rinse your measuring cup between the brown/green/red.

PH your mix after you have added ALL the nuits.

Personally, I use about HALF of what the GH site says to use, pretty much thru the entire grow. Of course, some strains can handle more, but if you stick with "half" strength, you will minimize the chance of "burning" your plants.

You got more questions Art, fire away.


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## 4u2sm0ke

:ciao:  Mojo 4u


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## ArtVandolay

Thanks.  I was just rereading the Flora sticky in hydro.  How do you figure out the PPM level?  Example - 1/4 tsp each in 1 gallon of water.  How do you calculate PPM level?

When hydro people say my nutes are 200 PPM - that must be a total PPM of each of the three types of nutes?


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## NorCalHal

When they say 200 ppm, it is the ppm of the mix after all nuits have been added.
Personally, I do not check my ppm's anymore, I just go by the look of the plant and she tells me if I need more brown. 

If you are going by PPM, then I would mix my nuits at half, then add brown(micro) to bump up the ppm's if needed.

Sorry Art, no easy answer for that one.


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## ArtVandolay

Hey, thanks, NCH.  Somehow you made me feel better about my complete ignorance!


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## pcduck

Here is a nifty calculator to play with hXXp://www.generalhydroponics.com/genhydro_US/floraseries_calculator.html


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## ArtVandolay

I saw that, pcduck.  What do you make of the note that accompanies it:

*"Please note:* the total ppm is a numerical summation                of elements in solution. This number does not correspond to the                reading on ppm meters which measure the charge of the elements in                solution.              "


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## MickFoster

I'm on my third Satori grow and I use GH Flora 3 part - but I use the 1:1:1 ratio for vegetative growth then switch to 1:2:3 ratio for flower and the plants are always perfect.  The first grow was in conventional hempy buckets - good success.  The second was in waterfarms - great success.  And my third is currently in hempy buckets with hydroton using clones I took from my second grow.  I mix my nutes in 2 gallon buckets with r/o water - 2 ml of each comes out to 200 ppms, 3 ml of each comes out to 300 ppms.  I start at 200 ppms and increase weekly until I max out at about 700 - 800 ppms (Mandala does not suggest real high ppms for their strains).  I would however get a ppm and pH meter.  After adding my nutes in the order NorCalHal suggested I always have to use pH up to bring it to around 5.8.  Satori does not branch much - most of the  phenos are one main cola.  It is my favorite smoke - very up high, not jittery, lasts a long time, doesn't put you to sleep, however sleeping soundly is possible.  I take about 4-5 hits at around 6:00 pm another 3-4 at around 9:00 pm and I'm good.  Hope that's helpful and stay safe!


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## ArtVandolay

MickFoster said:
			
		

> I'm on my third Satori grow and I use GH Flora 3 part - but I use the 1:1:1 ratio for vegetative growth then switch to 1:2:3 ratio for flower and the plants are always perfect.  The first grow was in conventional hempy buckets - good success.  The second was in waterfarms - great success.  And my third is currently in hempy buckets with hydroton using clones I took from my second grow.  I mix my nutes in 2 gallon buckets with r/o water - 2 ml of each comes out to 200 ppms, 3 ml of each comes out to 300 ppms.  I start at 200 ppms and increase weekly until I max out at about 700 - 800 ppms (Mandala does not suggest real high ppms for their strains).  I would however get a ppm and pH meter.  After adding my nutes in the order NorCalHal suggested I always have to use pH up to bring it to around 5.8.  Satori does not branch much - most of the  phenos are one main cola.  It is my favorite smoke - very up high, not jittery, lasts a long time, doesn't put you to sleep, however sleeping soundly is possible.  I take about 4-5 hits at around 6:00 pm another 3-4 at around 9:00 pm and I'm good.  Hope that's helpful and stay safe!



Wow, lots of great info there, Mick!  Does your satori tend to double or triple in height during flower?


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## MickFoster

ArtVandolay said:
			
		

> Wow, lots of great info there, Mick! Does your satori tend to double or triple in height during flower?


 
Never measured but I would guess between double and triple.  I veg for about 5-6 weeks and I yield about 2 oz per plant with a 600w hps.


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## Vegs

General Hydroponics: FloraGrow, FloraMirco and FloraBloom below is what I got from it.

Quantity of each are based on 1 teaspoon per gallon

Cuttings, seedlings: 1/4 Grow; 1/4 Mirco; 1/4 Bloom
General Purpose: 1 Grow; 1 Micro; 1 Bloom
Vegetative Growth: 3 Grow; 2 Micro; 1 Bloom
Transition to Bloom: 2 Grow; 2 Micro; 2 Bloom
Blooming Ripening: 1 Grow; 2 Micro; 3 Bloom

I add about 1 teaspoon per gallon of the Kool Bloom up till the last 2 weeks where I'll go just plain water for the last week. If I was using the powdered Kool Bloom I would be using that for the second to last week of flowering.

However, I only use 60-70% less then what the manufacture recommends because I never change my rez through the entire veg/flower cycle.


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## ArtVandolay

Vegs said:
			
		

> ...
> 
> However, I only use 60-70% less then what the manufacture recommends because I never change my rez through the entire veg/flower cycle.



That's what I was wondering about, thanks .  Mandala recommends lower nute levels for satori.  I think I'm going to use 50% to start.  I'm not going to change the rez either - hempy buckets.


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## The Hemp Goddess

My Satori has grown differently.  It branches out and tends to really grow once put into flowering--at the very least doubling in size in all directions.  I do keep my ppms around 800-900, and that is pushing it with Satori.  She is very efficient in her uptake of nutes and it is easy to get nute burn.  I would start out at 1/4 strength and work up.


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## NYC_Diesel x Jack_Herer

Hi Art, 
  I use the GH three part myself, a few basic rules...I st up my DWC system with the airstone running and the H2O in it.  Then I ALWAYS put my Hydrogen Peroxide in FIRST, and let it mix for at least 20 minutes before coming back.  Then I put in the micro, grow, and bloom, and then anything else in last (I use KoolBloom). The problem I found was not with gettign the right proportion of nutes, that is easy as long as you can measure, I found it tough getting the PPM's right where I wanted.  I dug around here and found this a wihle back, I copied it to my desktop and use it each feeding with great results. HOPE IT HELPS!
-------
"compliments of useless:


So OK - feeding schedule week by week. This is the GH weekly feeding program, slightly tweaked. I will only call out the volume of each part per gallon of water in the following manner: grow, micro, bloom, ppm range. Example - 5-2.5-2.5-400/800 would mean 5 ml grow, 2.5 ml micro, 2.5 ml bloom and a ppm of 400-880. Remember it's per gallon. You Euro's can easily convert to liters. 4 liters is just a little bit over 1 gallon. It should also be noted that I use the hardwater micro due to my tapwater. I suggest using the hardwater micro in place of the regular micro if your tap water is over 200 ppm total or you have over 70 ppm Ca. RO water users should use the regular micro.

Veg 
week 1 5-2.5-2.5-400/600
week 2 10-5-3- 600/800
week 3 12-6-3 800/1000 (continue week 3 formula if additional veg time is required.)

Bloom
week 1 6-6-10- 800/1200
week 2 3-7-12 - 1000/1400
week 3 3-8-14 - 1000/1400
week 4 3-8-16 - 1000/1400
week 5 (discussed in detail below*)
week 6 0-7-20 - 1000/1400
week 7 0-6-20 (see bleow**)

* During week 5 if not using a booster like Superbud, Bushmaster Kabloom etc. run 2.5-7-18. I use MOAB (Mother of All Blooms) or BushMaster at 50% of recommended strength, and use 1.25-3.5-9 for the fert base. 

**If running an 8 week strain you should only run the ferts during week 7 for a maximum of 3-4 days. This gives you 10 days for flushing. 

The ppms work out almost exactly. I tend to lean toward the lower side of the range, unless I have a really heavy feeder that I know can handle it. 

At every ressy change out I add in 5 drops per gallon of 35% food grade H2O2. During flush use ph adjusted water at 5.5-6.0
I will add epsom salt at week 1 of bloom if the plants are heavy feeders AND I see signs of an Mg def. Otherwise I won't use it. The only time I have ever had Mg def is during transition. The GH 3 part is a little low on Mg, but the PBP and Canna nutes are way lower. 

Now- how to control your PH...
There are a couple factors that cause your PH to drift. The most common is running the nute solution too strong or too weak. If it's too strong, your PH drops. If it's too weak the PH rises. You have to find the balance point. If you find that the formula above is say, a little strong, and say you have a 20 gallon ressy, mix the nutes for 18 gallons. If it's a little weak, mix it for 22 gallons. You follow?
The other common mistake is mixing your nutrient solution and trying to adjust the PH right away. You have to allow time for the ph buffers in the nutrient solution to do their job. Mix the nutes up, and bubble or circulate for 12 hours before even looking at your PH. You will find the PH to be almost right on target.
I use little or no ph adjusters. (Except during flush). I use tap water, with a starting PPM of 300-400 and a starting PH of 7.4-9.0 (Thats crazy you say! The water is too hard, you will never get stable PH and you will have too much Ca, causing a lockout of Mg!) Bollocks I say.
Every week, on Friday I drain the ressy and fill with plain water. I let that run overnight giving the plants a little flush. This also allows the chlorine and ammonia to evap. On Saturday morning, I mix the nutes into the ressy. I DO NOT adjust ph at this time. Let that run as is overnight. On Sunday morning, I check ph and adjust if needed. Usually don't have to. 
Doing things this way has saved me from constant PH drifts, and using about 150 ml of ph down every ressy change, and a little here and there throughout the week to keep it in the desired range. Now, the most I ever have to use is about 30 ml.if any at all. (I have a 35 gallon ressy btw) My Ph stays at a constant 5.5-5.8."
------
Hope this helps ART!  It cost me about $130, but a good PPM/ph meter will prove worth it's weight in gold...or nuggets...or even gold nuggets.  

Note about the nutes: I found it a pain in the butt to keep measuring those nutes over and over and they are REALLY thick.  So what I did was buy a Turkey Baster with ml measurments on it that I use for the nutes


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## ArtVandolay

Wow, Nyc!  This should be a sticky.  This is what I was talking about when I asked for an "Intro to Hydro Nutes" .  Is this a regimen that should work in hempy buckets?  I was just sitting here thinking I'm probably headed for dwc soon .  I wanna grow like THG!


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## StoneyBud

Vegs said:
			
		

> General Hydroponics: FloraGrow, FloraMirco and FloraBloom below is what I got from it.
> 
> Quantity of each are based on 1 teaspoon per gallon
> 
> Cuttings, seedlings: 1/4 Grow; 1/4 Mirco; 1/4 Bloom
> General Purpose: 1 Grow; 1 Micro; 1 Bloom
> Vegetative Growth: 3 Grow; 2 Micro; 1 Bloom
> Transition to Bloom: 2 Grow; 2 Micro; 2 Bloom
> Blooming Ripening: 1 Grow; 2 Micro; 3 Bloom


I use that exact method to mix the base solution.

Then, if I want half strength, I mix one gallon of that mix into another gallon of water. 1/4th strength, mix each of those into another gallon of water.

I start seedlings in a 1/8th mix and move it up from there until full strength.

As you can see from the answers you've received, a lot of growers have their own methods of growing and using nutrients.

I suggest that you start with a weak mix and move up a bit at a time. When you see a slight burn developing, back off to the last mix before that one.

Record on paper what works for you. No sense trying to remember it or find it again for your next crop.

Good luck!


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## NYC_Diesel x Jack_Herer

No problem   I pulled that from a pretty old thread but I use it every time I mix nutes....mostly becasue my short term memory is shot and even though I have looked at that feeding schedule 100 times, I can't remember the ratios without it


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## ArtVandolay

NYC_Diesel x Jack_Herer said:
			
		

> Hi Art,
> I use the GH three part myself, a few basic rules......
> 
> I found it a pain in the butt to keep measuring those nutes over and over and they are REALLY thick.  So what I did was buy a Turkey Baster with ml measurments on it that I use for the nutes



I've read everything in this thread 4x now .  My 3 part Flora series isn't thick, though, it's like water??


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## NYC_Diesel x Jack_Herer

my mistake, it is just the micro and flouralicious that is really thick.  And it isn't even "thick" in the sense that pancake syrup is thick, it is thick as in concentrated.  That is why I use the baster, so I can get the ml measurements right on.


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## viper

holy crap batman it would take me like forever to figure all that out - good job , very detailed ill save this and work my way up to it ........ this works for me as this IS my first hydro .

From germ is 2 weeks of ph adjusted water only .

week 1 of rooted clones or 3 leaf sets on seedlings : 2.5 mil each micro,grow,bloom per gallon of water 
week 2  2.5mil micro,5mil grow,2.5mil bloom.
week 3  5mil micro, 10mil grow, 3 mil bloom.
week 4  until 12/12 light , 6mil micro, 12mil grow, 3mil bloom.
week 1 of 12/12 6mil micro,6mil grow,10mil bloom.
week 2 of 12/12 7mil micro,3mil grow,12mil bloom.
week 3 8mil micro,3mil grow,14mil bloom.
week 4 8mil micro,3mil grow,16mil bloom.
week 5 7mil micro,2.5mil grow,18mil bloom.
week 6 6mil micro,NO GROW,20mil bloom until flush!
flush 10-14 days before harvesting .

note : all measurements are per gallon of water.
completely mix one series thoroughly in water before adding the next .i had nute burn even at 1/4 strength until i dialed in this schedule . later

quote from norcalhal

 First things first.. ALLWAYS mix you GH nuits in this order..Brown(micro),Green(grow) then Red (bloom). This is neded to have all the nuits "bond" correctly

Remember, Brown,Green,Red.

Also, NEVER let the nuits touch each other in an unmixed form, as it will react.
So, just rinse your measuring cup between the brown/green/red.

PH your mix after you have added ALL the nuits.


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## pcduck

ArtVandolay said:
			
		

> I saw that, pcduck.  What do you make of the note that accompanies it:
> 
> *"Please note:* the total ppm is a numerical summation                of elements in solution. This number does not correspond to the                reading on ppm meters which measure the charge of the elements in                solution.              "




I think they are just covering themselves in being they do not know the conversion of the ppm meter's that the individual grower is using


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## scatking

Art - i found a couple of syringes are perfect for getting the exact measurement in ml for the nutes.  Trying to pour into a tiny 1/4 teaspoon never seemed to work for me, and I would end up spilling the juice all over the place.  Once I used this method, I found my ppm's were exactly what the calculator predicted.  i still check every once in a while but it's more for peace of mind than any sort of adjustment.  Most hydro stores sell nice big ones that are good when you start mixing larger batches.  I also found that adding all the additives seemd to create issues so i just stay with the basic 3-part and everything seems to turn out fine.


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## ArtVandolay

scatking said:
			
		

> Art - i found a couple of syringes are perfect for getting the exact measurement in ml for the nutes.  Trying to pour into a tiny 1/4 teaspoon never seemed to work for me, and I would end up spilling the juice all over the place.  Once I used this method, I found my ppm's were exactly what the calculator predicted.  i still check every once in a while but it's more for peace of mind than any sort of adjustment.  Most hydro stores sell nice big ones that are good when you start mixing larger batches.  I also found that adding all the additives seemd to create issues so i just stay with the basic 3-part and everything seems to turn out fine.



I've been looking for the past week at my regular errand stops for 1/4 and 1/8 tsp measuring spoons , with no luck.  So the hydro store sells syringes in ml?  Thanks!


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## 4u2sm0ke

*Art *....i did DWC..use those nutes  and got a suringe from the Pharfacy  at store..also  look in the kitchen gadgets  in the store..they sell measure spoons..But  i like the seringe it  has the ml on them..i baught a 5 pack for 8 bux..just have to pour nutes in cup  when they get low..good luck


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## StoneyBud

One of these plastic measuring cyclinders will last you forever and make all your measurements accurate and easy:

www.coleparmer.com/catalog/product_view.asp?sku=0613750

One teaspoon equals 5 ml.

One tablespoon equals 15 ml.

Both are extremly easy to measure with this.

Other sizes are available from the same place.

I bought two of these, 5 years ago and still haven't ever used the second one.


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## viper

i like the cylinder i think ill get me one , 

i got these spoons at the grocery store for cheap , they spill a bit when i go too fast but nothing serious .


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## ArtVandolay

viper said:
			
		

> i like the cylinder i think ill get me one ,
> 
> i got these spoons at the grocery store for cheap , they spill a bit when i go too fast but nothing serious .



I like the cylinder, too.  Thanks, Stoney!  I would have bought those if I saw them, viper, thanks.  But the _plastic _cylinder looks much better suited for NUI (nuting under the influence) .


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## viper

true that


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## NYC_Diesel x Jack_Herer

I'm telling ya, a turkey baster is the way to go, no pouring at all   I can mix nutes high and drunk with no spills 
But I like the idea of those large plastic syringes, I will have to keep an eye out for some.


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## Super Silver Haze

syrenges for under $1 US.
hXXp://www.imed.com/shop/sections/index.cfm/s/639264

i use 2 sizes:  30 cc for my thick nutes and 6 cc for smaller measurements.  
my nutes are thick so i cut the tip off to suck up the nutes better.


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## pcduck

My Tractor Supply Store/horse livery also has 60ml syringes and black buckets and lids


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## Shockeclipse

I use half strength throughout and switched to like 80% recently when i switched to 12/12.  I am on my second res of transition to bloom phase and my plants are monsters.


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## Shockeclipse

I forgot to add they have cheap syringes with ml measurments in most baby sections at any grocery store.  I use a 3ml dropper and a measuring cup that goes to 250ml.  Which works well for me because I mix in 24 gals of water....


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## ArtVandolay

Shockeclipse said:
			
		

> I forgot to add they have cheap syringes with ml measurments in most baby sections at any grocery store.  I use a 3ml dropper and a measuring cup that goes to 250ml.  Which works well for me because I mix in 24 gals of water....



:rofl: I'm trying to picture the number of plants it would take to need 24 gallons at a time.


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## Shockeclipse

ArtVandolay said:
			
		

> :rofl: I'm trying to picture the number of plants it would take to need 24 gallons at a time.


 
lol, I have eight going, waiting for for sure sex determination and I change my res up 3gals.  I mix it all at once in a 31gal tote with a drain attached...so I just move my buckets under the drain (I put it up on a stand) and fill them to pre-marked lines.  I can't wait to NOT have to wheel two shopping carts with distilled water through the checkout line


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## ArtVandolay

Shockeclipse said:
			
		

> ...  I can't wait to NOT have to wheel two shopping carts with distilled water through the checkout line



Now that's funny :rofl:.  Nope, nothing suspicious about these 26 gallon jugs of distilled water .  I have a pet elephant and he needs a bath!

Why not buy a water filter?  Watcha growin?


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## Shockeclipse

ArtVandolay said:
			
		

> Now that's funny :rofl:. Nope, nothing suspicious about these 26 gallon jugs of distilled water . I have a pet elephant and he needs a bath!
> 
> Why not buy a water filter? Watcha growin?


 
I tell people that I have a reef tank and my RO filter is shot :hubba:   Most people have no idea *** I am talking about, or they don't ask.  I live with well water and I am currently in the market for a new home so I am going to def go to city water and get a nice RO setup.  I had put in a new water system with a RO but it didn't work out so well.  I am just growing bagseed for my first grow.  And the elephant just gets the well water


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## HighDroeD

viper said:
			
		

> holy crap batman it would take me like forever to figure all that out - good job , very detailed ill save this and work my way up to it ........ this works for me as this IS my first hydro .
> 
> From germ is 2 weeks of ph adjusted water only .
> 
> week 1 of rooted clones or 3 leaf sets on seedlings : 2.5 mil each micro,grow,bloom per gallon of water
> week 2  2.5mil micro,5mil grow,2.5mil bloom.
> week 3  5mil micro, 10mil grow, 3 mil bloom.
> week 4  until 12/12 light , 6mil micro, 12mil grow, 3mil bloom.
> week 1 of 12/12 6mil micro,6mil grow,10mil bloom.
> week 2 of 12/12 7mil micro,3mil grow,12mil bloom.
> week 3 8mil micro,3mil grow,14mil bloom.
> week 4 8mil micro,3mil grow,16mil bloom.
> week 5 7mil micro,2.5mil grow,18mil bloom.
> week 6 6mil micro,NO GROW,20mil bloom until flush!
> flush 10-14 days before harvesting .
> 
> note : all measurements are per gallon of water.
> completely mix one series thoroughly in water before adding the next .i had nute burn even at 1/4 strength until i dialed in this schedule . later
> 
> quote from norcalhal
> 
> First things first.. ALLWAYS mix you GH nuits in this order..Brown(micro),Green(grow) then Red (bloom). This is neded to have all the nuits "bond" correctly
> 
> Remember, Brown,Green,Red.
> 
> Also, NEVER let the nuits touch each other in an unmixed form, as it will react.
> So, just rinse your measuring cup between the brown/green/red.
> 
> PH your mix after you have added ALL the nuits.



when your mixing these different ratios every week do u have to change the rez?or just add ?


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## DirtySouth

NorCalHal said:
			
		

> When they say 200 ppm, it is the ppm of the mix after all nuits have been added.
> Personally, I do not check my ppm's anymore, I just go by the look of the plant and she tells me if I need more brown.
> 
> If you are going by PPM, then I would mix my nuits at half, then add brown(micro) to bump up the ppm's if needed.
> 
> Sorry Art, no easy answer for that one.


 
Hal, I'm currious on your method on mixing the nutes.
You say brown then green then red. any other order will mess w/ the nutes bonding, you said. Now you said if you need more then add some brown. This is contradiction in my eyes. So its cool to go brown green red  then brown again? Just tring to get this clear. Won't that mess w/ the bonding of the nutes as you stated in your prior posts? If its cool to add more brown after the green then red then why is that order so important? I'm confussed


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## Stringer Bell

NYC_Diesel x Jack_Herer said:
			
		

> Every week, on Friday I drain the ressy and fill with plain water. I let that run overnight giving the plants a little flush. This also allows the chlorine and ammonia to evap. On Saturday morning, I mix the nutes into the ressy. I DO NOT adjust ph at this time. Let that run as is overnight. On Sunday morning, I check ph and adjust if needed. Usually don't have to.
> Doing things this way has saved me from constant PH drifts, and using about 150 ml of ph down every ressy change, and a little here and there throughout the week to keep it in the desired range. Now, the most I ever have to use is about 30 ml.if any at all. (I have a 35 gallon ressy btw) My Ph stays at a constant 5.5-5.8."



I've been following this and the rest of the guide posted, but I find that my plant is really starting to drink/grow more just as it's time for the week's nutrient change.  Am I doing it wrong?


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