# Explain PPM



## prosport00 (Feb 18, 2011)

Could someone please explain in laymans terms about PPM's and what the recommended TDS for each stage of growth. I do understand what ppm's are, just reaching for more info to help the grow go. Is there a chart on MP anywhere???? Thanks for the help!!


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## SensiStarFan (Feb 18, 2011)

ppm stands for "parts per million".  It is a reflection of how many "parts per million" are not H20.  For example my tap water has a very low ppm, at 25.  Your ppm's is what you look at when you want to know how much nutrient you have applied to your solution.  So for example if your tap water is naturally 25ppm, and after you mix your nutrients into your water your reading is 625ppm's, then you know that the nutrients you put into your water comprise 600 parts per million.  Different strains can handle different levels of nutrients and ppm's so I can't really tell you exactly waht ppm levels you want.


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## Jericho (Feb 18, 2011)

Allot of the Hydro nutes websites have a calculator you can use. These are only guidelines though, as mentioned strains differ slightly in the nutrient needs. 

Some might be able to help a little more, i dont run hydro so cant give you specifics. 

What nutes are you using?


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## prosport00 (Feb 18, 2011)

GH 3 part. New meter says I need hard water micro and I will check out the GH chart. Thanks all


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## Jericho (Feb 18, 2011)

Some advise you start a little lower than the recommended just to be safe and avoid burning.


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## OGKushman (Feb 18, 2011)

GH3 on 25ppm will need CAL/Mag/Fe supplment.

DO NOT use recommended chart amounts. Rec. amounts will take you over 2000ppm.

USE 2/3 MAX and 1/3 on clones and seeds


everyone's res PPM and micro levels will be different if using tap water. YOU are lucky to have 25ppm drinking water. Use it up and replace it often.


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## trillions of atoms (Feb 18, 2011)

What method of hydro are you doing?

The Lucas formula uses the micro and bloom, and needs nothing else. The grow is knocked out of the equation... This is the "bees knees" of hydro nutrient regimes.

Im curious of your "method of madness" and look forward to helping you along the way.


ToA


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## prosport00 (Feb 20, 2011)

Thanks Trillion! This all started with a cracked valve on my water softener  bypass. After a time the plants started showing numerous crazy symptoms which made it very hard to diagnose. Figured it out when I started getting a salt ring around the bucket top. By then it was a scramble to save what I could. All things are fixed and I installed a spigot BEFORE the h2o softener to avoid a repeat of that. I am growing Blue berry, northern lights, and Afghan, all femenized. I am using GH 4 gallon buckets with Hydroton for a medium. 3 part GH nutes in hydro and Fox Farm nutes for the dirt. hydro PH is about 5.5- 5.8. Ordered some mango beans last week and will germ a couple when they arrive. I have a bb fem at 4 weeks of flower in hydro and she is the lone survivor of the salt fiasco. Also 2 nl in buckets, 1 afghan fem in bucket and 5 bb fem in dirt and 2 buckets ready for mango. 400 mh for veg and 1000 hps for flower in seperate rooms. I know I could up the light some and its in the works. 300 cfm fan thru light in flower to exterior and plenty of fresh air supply. any imput is appreciated if we can get this better!!


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## prosport00 (Feb 21, 2011)

also, How do you add up ppms? My water is 320 ppm (hard) after PH adjustment. Plant should be at 1250 or so for flower. Should I be at the total together of 1570 ppms??? What about when I add water to top buckets off, ppms go down, should I leave it till water change out or ??????


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## v35b (Feb 21, 2011)

I use an 18gal tub and thats what I do...My My well water is very high too(ppm). I just add store bought water when needed(about a gal/day).


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## Killuminati420 (Feb 21, 2011)

prosport00 said:
			
		

> also, How do you add up ppms? My water is 320 ppm (hard) after PH adjustment.


That seems really high to me...I would invest in an R/O system, it's helped me out a lot. My tap water ppm is 70. After it goes through the R/O system it's at 0ppm. eace:


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## Jericho (Feb 21, 2011)

Hehe you guys think your water is bad. I check my tap water and its PPM are off the charts, I mean my meter reads 900 at least. 
We drink bottled water over here only and purify it for cooking. No way i would ever go Hydro, I dont have the option unless i buy water which is too expensive or get a Ro system.


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## SensiStarFan (Feb 21, 2011)

prosport00 said:
			
		

> also, How do you add up ppms? My water is 320 ppm (hard) after PH adjustment. Plant should be at 1250 or so for flower. Should I be at the total together of 1570 ppms??? What about when I add water to top buckets off, ppms go down, should I leave it till water change out or ??????


 
You go with the total.  After mixing everything into your water whatever the ppm reading shows is the actual total.  So 1250 means 1250 total.  So you take your water, add your nutrients, adjust your ph, and then check the ppm's.  

As far as adding water to top off the buckets that is up to you.  I do not grow hydro but I know some people will top off with plain water until they change their res and some will top with more nutrients/water, you just want to stay on top of your ph either way.


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## v35b (Feb 21, 2011)

Jericho said:
			
		

> Hehe you guys think your water is bad. I check my tap water and its PPM are off the charts, I mean my meter reads 900 at least.
> We drink bottled water over here only and purify it for cooking. No way i would ever go Hydro, I dont have the option unless i buy water which is too expensive or get a Ro system.


 
That brings up an interesting question..I grow in an 18gal tub and my well water is 940ppm. I buy bottled water when i need to add. (about gal/day). Then I drain nutes every 10 days.

Would I be better off not to drain and just add nuted pure water by the gallon after the 7th day till the end of the veg or flower cycle?

My last grow yielded 6.5oz with 2 girls doing the normal way. I'm currently at 5weeks into flower and its time to drain. Plants look good but the single leaves comming off the buds turn under like a claw...


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## prosport00 (Feb 21, 2011)

Thanks too all for the great imput. SSF, I appreciate the insight on counting PPM's as I have learned that is a huge plus if not a Must!!! Hearing from some of the others on MP, My water is bad but I see alot worse too. K420, seems like you have excellent water and that is a plus and I have checked out the r/o system at the local gro shop and think it will be in the near future plans with a new light system!!!


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## OGKushman (Feb 24, 2011)

900ppm for well water is TOXIC. ask the EPA


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## gchristo (Feb 28, 2011)

v35b said:
			
		

> That brings up an interesting question..I grow in an 18gal tub and my well water is 940ppm. I buy bottled water when i need to add. (about gal/day). Then I drain nutes every 10 days.
> 
> Would I be better off not to drain and just add nuted pure water by the gallon after the 7th day till the end of the veg or flower cycle?
> 
> My last grow yielded 6.5oz with 2 girls doing the normal way. I'm currently at 5weeks into flower and its time to drain. Plants look good but the single leaves comming off the buds turn under like a claw...


 
v35b, ah, the dreaded claw leaf!!  Yes, I've had those as well.  Read somewhere that overwatering could cause the prob, or a res temp too cold, but I think it might be ph related also.  If I let my ph drop to 5.25 or lower for a few waterings, my sativa and sativa/indica mixes exhibit this leaf display.  I also notice that once a leaf claws, it never seems to relax, or spread out again. I've never had this prob with the indica dominant types that I prefer, but clawed some WW, Power Skunk, and some Ice. I'd love to hear from one of the experts about this condition.

v35b, I would continue to drain every 7 - 10 days, and replace with nuted, ph'd, available water. Then, if you need to top off your res, use your distilled or pure bought water.  Too bad that your well water is shot, but I seem to remember one of our resident experts uses well water, and his/her results are supurb.

Cheers


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## v35b (Feb 28, 2011)

gchristo said:
			
		

> v35b, ah, the dreaded claw leaf!!  Yes, I've had those as well. Read somewhere that overwatering could cause the prob, or a res temp too cold, but I think it might be ph related also. If I let my ph drop to 5.25 or lower for a few waterings, my sativa and sativa/indica mixes exhibit this leaf display. I also notice that once a leaf claws, it never seems to relax, or spread out again. I've never had this prob with the indica dominant types that I prefer, but clawed some WW, Power Skunk, and some Ice. I'd love to hear from one of the experts about this condition.
> 
> v35b, I would continue to drain every 7 - 10 days, and replace with nuted, ph'd, available water. Then, if you need to top off your res, use your distilled or pure bought water. Too bad that your well water is shot, but I seem to remember one of our resident experts uses well water, and his/her results are supurb.
> 
> Cheers


 
Well my res temp is right at 70deg +/- 2deg..Ph is stable at 5.6-5.9..Room temp is 79 with lights on and 70 lights out..:confused2:


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## v35b (Mar 1, 2011)

[/ATTACH]Finally took some pics of the problem.. 400hps, and a few cfl's


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## Locked (Mar 1, 2011)

Hard to tell with those pics but I see rams horns which is a good indicator of over feeding....


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## v35b (Mar 1, 2011)

I'll backoff a bit on the nutes next time I dump the res.


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## prosport00 (Mar 29, 2011)

I definitly think light is part of the problem. 400 for flowering, I would think, has to be a minimum to get the job done. I did get a new 600 watt MH for growing and use a 1000 HPS for flower and think I need another 1000. cant hurt anyway


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