# DIY COB grow light



## bombbudpuffa

What you'll need-

*COB led chips*. Cree CXB3590 and Vero29 are the most popular. I haven't used either so I'll just use for an example what I use. I use the citizen clu048 1212 chips. They're rated at 36v, 2800ma max.

*Led driver*. My chips are rated 36v, 2800ma max but typical or preferred ma is 1400. Your chip runs cooler, color is more true and you get a better lumen per watt. Volts and amps are the 2 most important things when it comes to choosing chips and drivers. More later.

*Heatsink* There are 2 kinds. There's active heatsinks and passive heatsinks. Active heatsinks implement a fan for cooling. Passive heatsinks just cool from a large surface area. If you're an efficiency freak use passive. If you don't mind the extra electricity and want your heatsinks to literally feel cool go with active.

*Power source* I just use a 110v ac plug

A word on voltage and ma. If I want to run my 36v chip I need at least a 36v driver. It can be 40v, 70v, or 100v just as long as it's more than what the chip is rated the chip will come on...look at volts like your cars ignition and the COBs like your car. If you want to crank your 36v car you'll need a 36v+ ignition. Look at your amps (or ma/milli amps as they're listed on most drivers) as your cars gas pedal. The harder you push that pedal the faster,  or brighter in an leds' case, the car will go. Most COB run most efficient from 50-75% their max ma rating. So my 36v, 2800ma max chip should be run at 36v, 1400ma for the most efficiency. 

Pictured in order-

COB chips 
Drivers
Heatsinks 

Instructions on putting together, different designs and links to parts up next. I might need to edit something as I'm exhausted lol. 

View attachment IMG_2592_noexif.jpg


View attachment 2017-11-30 19.36.53.jpg


View attachment 2017-11-30 19.39.24.jpg


View attachment IMG_2591_noexif.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-02 16.59.13.jpg


View attachment IMG_2507_noexif.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-02 16.59.54.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-02 17.00.34.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

So, here's my latest light. Using 3 36v chips. In order to find the right driver to run three I had to multiply 36 x 3 which gives me 108v. So, I needed a driver with, at least, a 108v output. I went with this inventronics driver with an output of 142v at 1050ma. 

Since I'm using active heatsinks, or heatsinks with fans, I either had to find a 12v power supply or use a driver on them to wire them in line. Couldn't dig up a driver that could run all three so they each got a driver. The drivers are $1 each so no biggie.

Easy to hook up. I'll get into the details next post. 

View attachment 2017-12-03 16.08.44.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-03 16.07.14.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-03 16.06.08.jpg


----------



## The Hemp Goddess

I admire the @#$% out of you that can build your own LEDs.  I think this is just so impressive!


----------



## bombbudpuffa

The Hemp Goddess said:


> I admire the @#$% out of you that can build your own LEDs.  I think this is just so impressive!



Thank you THG but, I promise, anyone could do it. You can make one without touching a soldering gun. I'll show you how easy it is.


----------



## Rosebud

Me too, what THG said. Color me impressed. You rock BBP!


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Rosebud said:


> Me too, what THG said. Color me impressed. You rock BBP!



Thank you rose!


----------



## bombbudpuffa

So, I'm going to put one together and let you all follow along.

I'll be using 5 Cree CXA1304 9v chips












https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cree-XLamp-CXA1304-led-3-7-10-9W-COB-Natural-White-5000K-9V-LED-Chip/321634797906?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

They'll be held by these solder less COB holders






http://www.newark.com/ideal/50-2000cr/led-holder-cree-cxa13-cob-array/dp/39Y2341

I'll be using a 680ma dimmable driver...cheap version from china. 5x9v=45v at least.






https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-12pcs-x-3W-36W-for-Dimmable-Constant-Current-Power-Supply-LED-Driver/261650585356?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I'll be using these lil heatsinks with a 12v 100ma fan attached to it.






https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-10W-High-Power-LED-Silver-Aluminum-Heatsink-with-fan-light-Cooling-Cooler/141909040697?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I'll need a couple 300ma drivers to run the fans

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-DC-Transformator-LED-Driver-Netzteil-Trafo-1-3W-4-7W-8-12W-12-18W-300mA/291657462343?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=590691556774&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Back in the morning with prep...including drilling and tapping the heatsinks, cleaning everything and heatsink paste and options. 

View attachment 2017-12-04 20.54.31.jpg


View attachment 2017-11-30 19.38.37.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-04 20.54.00.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-04 20.56.26.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-04 20.55.44.jpg


----------



## umbra

awesome


----------



## bombbudpuffa

A quick word on the chips and holders. Each chip has a + and - side. The holders are made so the + matches with the +, - with -. If you look closely in these pics you can see the +- on the chip and how I have the chip positioned in the holder with + to + and - to -.

This is also how your chips will be wired together...+ to -  to + to - and so on. I'll show you in detail later on in the build. 

View attachment 2017-11-30 19.38.37.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-04 20.54.00.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

*Mounting your chips*

I'm going to use some 3m double sided tape and a couple 1/4 inch 4 40 screws. First I have to remove the fans to drill the holes for the chips to be mounted. I'm removing the fans so they aren't damaged by my drill. 

View attachment 2017-12-06 13.58.54.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Next position your chips on the heat sink, making sure to avoid the fans mounting holes, and mark the spots you want to drill. 

View attachment 2017-12-06 13.58.19.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-06 13.57.18.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Now, the aluminum is slippery so you'll need to put impressions in the metal for your drill bit to go in to avoid it sliding offline. I used a hammer and a nail. Then drilled the holes. 

View attachment 2017-12-06 13.56.45.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-06 13.56.17.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Adding threads is a @#%#@$%!! You need to be very careful because the bits break very easily. What you have to do is oil your bit, start drilling very slow and at the least sign of resistance, stop and back the bit out. Clean the metal from the tap and repeat until your threads are in. 

View attachment 2017-12-06 13.55.52.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-06 13.55.19.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-06 13.54.54.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Take your double sided tape and place it on your heatsink, stick your chip to it, making sure your holes line up. Take your time because the tape is crazy sticky. Put your screws in and put your fan back on. 

View attachment 2017-12-06 13.54.31.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-06 13.53.45.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-06 13.53.15.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Now you have a chip mounted to an active heatsink. To be continued... 

View attachment 2017-12-06 13.52.40.jpg


----------



## 2RedEyes

Hey Puffa, thanks for posting this stuff. You got me checking out YouTube for diy grow lights. I can see something like that in my future. Gotta lot of research in to do though...


----------



## bombbudpuffa

No problem at all. 

Next you want to get an aluminum angle. This will be used for framing your light. Now I was just going to drill holes and use the plastic push through on the fan and push them through the holes. I decided against it, removed the plastic push through and tapped and screwed the heatsinks in place. Remember, mark your drill spot then indent it with something so your drill doesn't slide. 

View attachment 2017-12-07 17.07.23.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-07 17.06.45.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

As you can see in my last pic the fans leads were too short so I soldered extra to it, pull tied all the wires together and secured them to the frame with pull ties.

Don't mind my weird wiring. Couldn't find my black wire so green is - and red is +. 

View attachment 2017-12-07 17.06.11.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-07 17.05.05.jpg


----------



## St_Nick

Iffn you don't mind, whats the purpose of the double sided tape.  Surely you didn't put it between the heat sink and the chip?  The only thing that should be between the chip and the heatsink is heat sink compound which improves thermal transfer although I assume the tape is at least thin.  Chances are the glue will wind up cooking hard like varnish


----------



## bombbudpuffa

The double sided tape is used as a heat sink adhesive for low watt led. I've used them several times for this exact purpose.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

https://www.amazon.com/9448A-Double-Coated-Tissue-×55Yds/dp/B01CZGLIAC

They can withstand high Temps but this light won't get even warm with the active cooling.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/48Pcs-Double-sided-Thermal-Adhesive-Tape-for-Heatsink-25mm-X-25mm-/262246455346


----------



## St_Nick

If you're happy then I'm happy.  The purpose of that tape is attaching things like strip lighting to the under side of cabinets and the like.  I'm sure it will do ya just fine but i thought the chip holder was used to hold the chip to the heat sink.  I ain't giving you a hard time, I'm trying to learn here.  I was a design engineer for Lockheed Martin in a prior life but I retired 5 years ago.  Lotsa new stuff out there since then.


----------



## 2RedEyes

Hey there St Nick, I retired from Lockheed Martin my own self here on the west coast. Satellite tracker....


----------



## St_Nick

I developed Aegis software/hardware.  We just may find out pretty soon how good of a job I did!


----------



## bombbudpuffa

St_Nick said:


> If you're happy then I'm happy.  The purpose of that tape is attaching things like strip lighting to the under side of cabinets and the like.  I'm sure it will do ya just fine but i thought the chip holder was used to hold the chip to the heat sink.  I ain't giving you a hard time, I'm trying to learn here.  I was a design engineer for Lockheed Martin in a prior life but I retired 5 years ago.  Lotsa new stuff out there since then.



The 3m 9448a is actually rated as a double sided thermal adhesive. It can handle high temps. I get your skeptical but this 8snt my first rodeo.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

This is what I use for high powered cobs btw.

https://cobkits.com/product/arctic-thermal-pads-for-citizen-clu048-series/


----------



## St_Nick

Gotcha. This is what I trust.https://www.arctic.ac/us_en/mx-4.html


----------



## St_Nick

Didn't mean to sidetrack your thread.  I'm anxious to see how she works out


----------



## bombbudpuffa

No,questions are more than welcome. They help me think. So, I fired her up with no fans. After 10 minutes she's only slightly warm. Only pulling 32.5w from the wall so a lil over 6w per chip. Fully dim it only pulls 1.9w lol.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

I think I'm going to remove the fans. At 6w per chip I think my fans in my tent 2 I'll cause enough air flow to keep it cool which is awesome!!!


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Still slightly warm after running full power for almost half an hour. 

View attachment IMG_2727_noexif.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Dimmer turned all the way down...1.9w 

View attachment IMG_2725_noexif.jpg


View attachment IMG_2722_noexif.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Dimmer turned all the way up...32.5w. I'll post step by step pics to hook up the chips to one another and the driver. 

View attachment IMG_2726_noexif.jpg


View attachment IMG_2723_noexif.jpg


View attachment IMG_2724_noexif.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Having trouble uploading pics. I'll finish this asap.


----------



## umbra

Red wjen i was at Goddard Space center took a cw nd:yag split the beam and put 1 beam thru an acousto optic modulator then used 1 beam as reference and the oyjer the object beam and looked the dobbler shift in frequency yo determine if satelliiye was moving to reference beam or away from it.  Very accurate.  Nick you already know my FIL was project engineer for Aegis when it was still RCA


----------



## bombbudpuffa

umbra said:


> Red wjen i was at Goddard Space center took a cw nd:yag split the beam and put 1 beam thru an acousto optic modulator then used 1 beam as reference and the oyjer the object beam and looked the dobbler shift in frequency yo determine if satelliiye was moving to reference beam or away from it.  Very accurate.  Nick you already know my FIL was project engineer for Aegis when it was still RCA



:huh:

Man! What im doing here is radio shack level. You might have to dumb that down a lil lol.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Each chip has a positive and negative side. All you do to hook them up is wire a positive side from one chip to a negative side to another chip then the positive from that chip to the negative from another and so on.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

For some reason I can't upload pics. Anyone else having this issue?


----------



## 2RedEyes

bombbudpuffa said:


> For some reason I can't upload pics. Anyone else having this issue?



Yep


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Dang. Guess this will have to wait.


----------



## umbra

Bbp will take some pix of peyote purple x dc under the spydrx led,  seriously fat leaves


----------



## bombbudpuffa

umbra said:


> Bbp will take some pix of peyote purple x dc under the spydrx led,  seriously fat leaves



I can't wait to see them.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

As you can see from this professionally made instructional pic I have negative(black) from one chip going to the positive(red) of another chip, then the negative from that chip to the positive of the next chip and so on. You'll be left with a negative lead and a positive lead at the the opposite ends of the led string. Positive goes to the positive(red) on the driver, negative to the negative(black).

The white wires are for your potentiometer. 

View attachment 2017-12-08 13.32.06.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-08 03.20.12.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Most of the time your AC input wires are blue (N) and brown (L). These are the wires that you connect your power supply to. Sometimes they can be white (N) and black (L) and just to be super confusing sometimes they're both white, which is the case with my driver. 

Just keep in mind white and blue go together and black and brown go together.

If at any point you'd like detailed pics just ask. 

View attachment 2017-12-08 03.21.20.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Here's the 110v ac piug I used for a power supply. Blue wire to the N, brown to the L. If you have black and white wires in your plug then white to N, black to L. If you wire these backwards you'll burn up your driver. 

View attachment 2017-12-08 03.23.41.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

I used these to connect everything to make all the parts detachable. You should put your L and positive wires on the positive side unlike me who wI red them backwards for the pic. So red to positive on output side, black or brown(L) to positive on the input side and black to negative on the output, white or blue (N) to negative on the input side. 

View attachment 2017-12-08 03.23.07.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

So here's what you'll have altogether...light strip, driver and power supply. 

View attachment 2017-12-08 03.16.27.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Light strip plugs into the output on the driver, power supply plugs into the input on the driver. 

View attachment 2017-12-08 03.15.51.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Driver is dimmable but you'll have to add a potentiometer. I did solder this piece in place. Plus to the middle prong, negative to either of the others....most people would choose right prong but I went with left because it's on the same side as the drivers neg wire lol. 

View attachment 2017-12-08 03.22.37.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-08 03.20.44.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-08 03.22.00.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Here she is on dim 

View attachment 2017-12-08 03.15.03.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Full blast 

View attachment 2017-12-08 03.14.35.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

If I wasnt clear enough or you have any questions or want more pics of a certain process just ask.


----------



## umbra

peyote purple x deep chunk 

View attachment IMG_0845.JPG


View attachment IMG_0846.JPG


View attachment IMG_0847.JPG


----------



## bombbudpuffa

That's a beauty umbra! Here's one of mine. 

View attachment 2017-12-08 17.51.12_noexif.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Switched out drivers and connected a triac dimmer with a remote. Now, I can remotely dim, turn on/off, set at 25, 50, 75 and 100% and make my own presets. I can also dim with the knob. Driver is only 300ma which makes my light only 14w on 100%. Not as efficient or effective but cool beans nonetheless. 

View attachment IMG_2759_noexif.jpg


View attachment IMG_2761_noexif.jpg


View attachment IMG_2762_noexif.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-09 02.08.28.jpg


View attachment IMG_2764_noexif.jpg


View attachment IMG_2766_noexif.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Uh oh

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F322594455002


----------



## screwdriver

In reference to post #45

It maybe more appropriate to have the female connector on the power cord end.  As its pictured, it appears the "-" , which is typically the sleeve of the connector, is wired to the line wire.  Not good.  If it were the female connector it would be a little more protected.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

screwdriver said:


> In reference to post #45
> 
> It maybe more appropriate to have the female connector on the power cord end.  As its pictured, it appears the "-" , which is typically the sleeve of the connector, is wired to the line wire.  Not good.  If it were the female connector it would be a little more protected.



Check post 46...I explained I had them wired backwards in the pic. I was building and taking pics and screwed up.


----------



## RubyRed

thanks for the info.  this thread has made me think I can build this too

:48:


----------



## samarta

I'm not worthy!!!!!!!!!! I will try this one day, where do you obtain all of these goodies ie. lights, sinks, fans, and transformers?


----------



## umbra

there are links in the posts for all the stuff


----------



## umbra

Hey BBP, was mildly interested in this subject when you started this thread. Now wildly interested. Bought a fluence spydrx and it has opened my eyes to LEDS. 1st was some basic research as to the types of leds was necessary. Just looking at specs sheets from manufacturers doesn't tell you much useful info about which ones to buy and run. The 2 things I did pick up on were efficacy and price, lol. But I noticed some of the different cob manufacturers had a simulator that you could plug in factors like current or voltage or color temperature that I was able to make some sense of the differences in COBs


----------



## umbra

Which led me to constant current drivers and constant voltage drivers, lol.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

umbra said:


> Which led me to constant current drivers and constant voltage drivers, lol.



You'll be building them, then addicted to building them, in no time l9l.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Another build I'm working on. I'll be using 4 cree cxa2540 3500k on this one. Going to put this one in the flower tent. 

View attachment 2017-12-22 14.57.15.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-22 14.56.39.jpg


View attachment 2017-12-22 14.56.07.jpg


----------



## screwdriver

Are you putting all 4 on the one heatsink?


----------



## bombbudpuffa

screwdriver said:


> Are you putting all 4 on the one heatsink?



Well, plans have changed a lil with this build but, no, 4 chips won't even physically fit on one heatsink lol. 1 chip per heatsink. I was going to get my boy to hook me up a 277v plug but he's a lil too busy atm so I'm going to grab a meanwell driver, 4 more heatsinks and chips and run all 8 on one driver. Just need the driver and 4 more heatsinks and I'm good to go with this one.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Holes drilled, tapped, heatsinks cleaned,chips cleaned and mounted. Driver should be here no later than thursday. 

View attachment 2018-01-02 16.33.35.jpg


----------



## 2RedEyes

Looking good, gonna be bright in there!


----------



## bombbudpuffa

This is what im aiming for. A 3 ft strip. 

View attachment 2018-01-02 19.37.37.jpg


View attachment 2018-01-02 19.36.03.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Run your diy lights from your phone or tablet.

http://www.pacificlightconcepts.com/product/amelech-wireless-controller/

Run your active heatsinks from your phone or tablet

https://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/accessories/recon


----------



## 2RedEyes

Here&#8217;s another one. I&#8217;m using this on my system for both lights and to automate some feeding.
But I see the Pacific Light module is more than just on/off.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

2RedEyes said:


> Heres another one. Im using this on my system for both lights and to automate some feeding.
> But I see the Pacific Light module is more than just on/off.



On/off, dimming, presets...awesome lil device. Then you can buy the hub which controls up to 500 units. I was checking those out that you linked until someone showed me these.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Lights hooked up to wifi and controlled by an app. 

View attachment 2018-01-17 09.09.08.jpg


View attachment 2018-01-17 09.57.18.jpg


----------



## umbra

sweet


----------



## bombbudpuffa

umbra said:


> sweet



I've recently become addicted with home automation. That led me to arduino, which led me to wireless modules, which led me to raspberry pi and that led me to a whole new world...diy rgb led tv screens, diy tablets, diy computers...omg I think I'm in love.


----------



## umbra

I worked with someone who was remodeling his house and decided to go with a SMART home setup. Rewired everything so it was automated and run from his phone. That was 15 years ago. His security system, lights, door locks, hvac, cameras, even the coffee pot was setup with a wifi system to check when it was done. I can see more and more automation with commercial growers.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Me too umbra. My next step is getting off the cloud and running everything locally. Still in the infant stage of figuring it out but the more I read the more I understand. I think I'll have it figured out completely in a couple months.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

This light is awesome. More bright than I was expecting. Couldn't get my touch screen fan controller to work but I had a manual one lying around.

The green and black dc plug was replaced by wago connectors. I only used that to test the light before hard wiring everything. 

View attachment 2018-01-18 21.58.32.jpg


View attachment 2018-01-19 18.40.44.jpg


View attachment 2018-01-19 18.39.10.jpg


----------



## umbra

How far from the canopy?


----------



## bombbudpuffa

I have this one about 1ft up atm. I'll lower it a lil everyday until I see signs of hurting the girls.


----------



## Hackerman

bombbudpuffa said:


> I've recently become addicted with home automation. That led me to arduino, which led me to wireless modules, which led me to raspberry pi and that led me to a whole new world...diy rgb led tv screens, diy tablets, diy computers...omg I think I'm in love.



Those Raspberry Pi's are amazing aren't they? I have 5 of them. LMAO I do have an Arduino too but I have not done anything with it yet.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Hackerman said:


> Those Raspberry Pi's are amazing aren't they? I have 5 of them. LMAO I do have an Arduino too but I have not done anything with it yet.



Have you looked into the onion omega 2? Has a graphic user interface for writing programs instead of writing code....it's drag and drop lol.


----------



## Hackerman

There is also a drag and drop interface for the RPi. It's called Cayenne.

https://mydevices.com/cayenne/features/

I would rather write the code. Those drag and drop interfaces confuse me. LMAO


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Hackerman said:


> There is also a drag and drop interface for the RPi. It's called Cayenne.
> 
> https://mydevices.com/cayenne/features/
> 
> I would rather write the code. Those drag and drop interfaces confuse me. LMAO



Nice! I know zero about writing code. I know I can copy and paste for a lot of things but I don't have a clue as to how to edit the code to customize it. I've been reading and watching as much as I can but a lot of it is like a foreign language. Any pointers, good reads, videos, etc?


----------



## Hackerman

Best way to learn it is to just do it. Like you said, picking snippets of code and making changes to it. It's definitely a long learning curve but it's a lot of fun and a great way to escape the real world. Not quite astro projection, but close. LOL 

Most of the sensors come with some kind of code that makes them work. Piecing those together makes for an easy project.

My reference is always just the command and what it does so I like references like this....

https://www.w3schools.com/

They have a section just for the RPi, although I've never really checked out that section much....

https://www.w3schools.com/nodejs/nodejs_raspberrypi.asp

Try the Cayenne. You might like it. It's got a ton of features.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Omg! Thank you so much for the links, especially the first one. That will be very useful. Guess I need to buy a raspberry. I'm still undecided though. I might play with the omega first. I mean, it's a $9 computer lol. I'll just buy both lmao.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

I've been going crazy with the wifi stuff. Bought a bunch of strip lights, bulbs and wifi controllers, a few sonoff switches. Also bought a bunch of components to build some wifi controllers using the esp8266. In a few months I'll have lots of lights and appliances on wifi.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Timer settings for the new light 

View attachment 2018-01-21 12.36.52.jpg


----------



## 2RedEyes

Cool, like the sun rising and setting!


----------



## 2RedEyes

I&#8217;ve got the parts for but have yet to build a far red flower initiator... I guess I don&#8217;t need it until I get something tomflower. It&#8217;ll turn on the 15 or so minutes as the mail lights go out. Supposed to signal the plants that it&#8217;s sleep time.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

2RedEyes said:


> Ive got the parts for but have yet to build a far red flower initiator... I guess I dont need it until I get something tomflower. Itll turn on the 15 or so minutes as the mail lights go out. Supposed to signal the plants that its sleep time.



I'm going to add some lil 3v far red crees but they'll just be on continuously. What kind of led are you going to use?


----------



## Muddy Paws

Sup BBP!!!! Long time, no see!


----------



## umbra

So it is you, hmmmm.


----------



## Muddy Paws

umbra said:


> So it is you, hmmmm.


  OR IS IT  *looks around nervously

Here...check these oldies but goodies out.. 

View attachment gettho pass.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Muddy Paws said:


> OR IS IT  *looks around nervously
> 
> Here...check these oldies but goodies out..



Ohhhhhh snaaaapppp!!!! Been looking for you like crazy!!! I'll shoot you a PM.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

5 weeks under around 250w cobs in a 1.5ftx1.5ft tent. I'm blasting these with light. I've noticed I have to feed and water a lot more. Taken a lil tinkering around with nutes, which I hate using, but I think I've got them happy now. Growth is explosive. Going to give these a couple more weeks then onto flower. 

View attachment 2018-02-16 19.29.12_noexif.jpg


View attachment 2018-02-16 19.28.31_noexif.jpg


View attachment 2018-02-16 19.27.54_noexif.jpg


----------



## 2RedEyes

Very nice lookin, Puffa!!!


----------



## Budlight

Man puffa  they are looking really amazing


----------



## MeNtAlPaTiEnT

Beautiful ladies. I like how you've raised them. They have very nice structure! The pink fan being that close doesnt stress the plant in that area at all?


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Thanks everyone! 

MP-Nah. I'm constantly rotating and moving them and I have the fan tilted upwards so the plants aren't being blown around as much as you would think from the pic.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

6 weeks from seed and Day 1 12/12. Will be flowered under 1 400w hps and around 350w of led. That 350w will more than likely be increased sometime soon. 

View attachment 2018-02-23 19.08.56.jpg


View attachment 2018-02-23 19.07.58.jpg


View attachment 2018-02-23 19.07.20.jpg


----------



## MeNtAlPaTiEnT

Yowzas! Happy girls you have there.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

MeNtAlPaTiEnT said:


> Yowzas! Happy girls you have there.



Thank you mental!


----------



## Budlight

Man they are looking excellent buddy really beautiful can&#8217;t wait to see how they come along the next little bit I know they&#8217;re going to be crazy I know you don&#8217;t mind doing a little bit a DIY stuff you should look on Instagram or  search the photon phantom boards  they are really amazing boards for the price  and the nice part about them is they have all the colours you need  in one board


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Budlight said:


> Man they are looking excellent buddy really beautiful cant wait to see how they come along the next little bit I know theyre going to be crazy I know you dont mind doing a little bit a DIY stuff you should look on Instagram or  search the photon phantom boards  they are really amazing boards for the price  and the nice part about them is they have all the colours you need  in one board



Yea, I'm cheap and those boards are expensive. I'm so happy with the cobs atm I'm not even seeing a reason to look for better. I still have several different cobs I want to play around with and I like how I can mix my own specs with the cobs. I'll play around with those eventually but I don't see it in my near future.


----------



## MeNtAlPaTiEnT

bombbudpuffa said:


> Yea, I'm cheap and those boards are expensive. I'm so happy with the cobs atm I'm not even seeing a reason to look for better. I still have several different cobs I want to play around with and I like how I can mix my own specs with the cobs. I'll play around with those eventually but I don't see it in my near future.


There's a guy on youtube called thegrowboss. He HATES Leds. Should tell him whats up. I wanna see someone put him in his seat!


----------



## bombbudpuffa

MeNtAlPaTiEnT said:


> There's a guy on youtube called thegrowboss. He HATES Leds. Should tell him whats up. I wanna see someone put him in his seat!



To each their own. I was skeptical but I even have a burple led light that kicks butt. I'm sold...plotting the next build.


----------



## Hackerman

So, I am looking to start on this soon. Just been kind of reading a little background.

This light will be used for flowering only. I'm not sure how Kelvin applies to LED. I am reading where the full 56k is fine because the 27k is just the 56k with a filter to eliminate the difference in blue. Some say bull. I'm not sure who to believe. I was also looking at CRI. No one seems to give a hoot about that. LMAO

The Cree LEDs, themselves look pretty cheap. I am wondering where the giant cost kicks in. 

Anyway, for a flowering light, what K should I look for?

Thanks


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Hackerman said:


> So, I am looking to start on this soon. Just been kind of reading a little background.
> 
> This light will be used for flowering only. I'm not sure how Kelvin applies to LED. I am reading where the full 56k is fine because the 27k is just the 56k with a filter to eliminate the difference in blue. Some say bull. I'm not sure who to believe. I was also looking at CRI. No one seems to give a hoot about that. LMAO
> 
> The Cree LEDs, themselves look pretty cheap. I am wondering where the giant cost kicks in.
> 
> Anyway, for a flowering light, what K should I look for?
> 
> Thanks



I'd go for 2700, 3000 or 3500 but a 4000 isn't out of the question. I use cree but they're older chips. I mainly use citizen clu048 1212 and I mostly use 3500k. I use different cri too. The reason is a clu048 90 cri and clu048 80 cri are peaking at different nanometers so I mix them to get a more "full" spectrum.

https://cobkits.com/product/citizen-clu048-1212-90cri-gen5/

$10 a piece and they're awesome.


----------



## Hackerman

Hey Bomb, what do you think of these....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-170-26...r-380NM-840NM-Full-Spectrum-LED-/262703085255

COB with a built-in driver. Seems like it would save some assembly. Not sure what the down side will be.

Thanks again


----------



## bombbudpuffa

I have a few. Nowhere near as bright as those citizen chips. I wouldnt recommend for growing but I use one for a security light though.


----------



## Hackerman

Cool, thanks. I figured there would be a down side. LOL

Thanks again


----------



## sopappy

bombbudpuffa said:


> Thank you THG but, I promise, anyone could do it. You can make one without touching a soldering gun. I'll show you how easy it is.



what about the tap and die thing, easy to botch that,
I wonder if self-tap screws would be as tight


----------



## sopappy

bombbudpuffa said:


> I'd go for 2700, 3000 or 3500 but a 4000 isn't out of the question. I use cree but they're older chips. I mainly use citizen clu048 1212 and I mostly use 3500k. I use different cri too. The reason is a clu048 90 cri and clu048 80 cri are peaking at different nanometers so I mix them to get a more "full" spectrum.
> 
> https://cobkits.com/product/citizen-clu048-1212-90cri-gen5/
> 
> $10 a piece and they're awesome.



"$13.50 medium flat rate box (~$65 international to most countries):"

weehoo, don't care, I'll pay, surely to gawd kanada is still a most country?

GREAT thread on the build, thanks for that, and the wifi automation link too! (wish I'd had that, I had to make x10 work)

mulling over to your posts to put together  my parts list, thanks again!
I've been agonizing over new lights, this is the option for me up here methinks.


----------



## sopappy

bombbudpuffa said:


> Now you have a chip mounted to an active heatsink. To be continued...



Friggin lovely, shop teacher would be gushing!
How much you want for one of those? 
seriously, that's the hard part, you need tap and skilz, I'd buy 8

I'm also curious why you don't get everything at that Cobkits site, are you saving by using Ebay? and again, thanks for the links!
I thought I'd find "kits" at that site, just 5 pages of parts but I did stumble across these, maybe this engine thing makes this even easier https://cobkits.com/product/cxm22-light-engine/


----------



## Hackerman

I have been trying to buy parts as well and cobkits has been out of stock forever. Digikey is $24 for the same thing. Ebay had similar but not the same COBs.

Any good sources?

Also, just tossing this out... I plan to make each COB as a separate light on a separate hanger with a separate HS and fan and a separate plug and a separate..... well, you get it. Then, I can hang one here and there, wherever I need it as required to accommodate different heights and areas of coverage.

That's why I kind of like those COBs with the drivers built-in. So far, everything I have seen is.... one driver runs many COBs.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

> what about the tap and die thing, easy to botch that,
> I wonder if self-tap screws would be as tight


It's not that hard but if you do 20 heatsinks expect to screw up a few taps. It happens.



> How much you want for one of those?


3000...Canadian 



> are you saving by using Ebay?


Sometimes. I shop around for the best deals. 



> maybe this engine thing makes this even easier


That's your chip mounted to a heatsink. Buy 4 or 5 of those then you'll only need a driver and power supply, not including wire and connectors. 



> Any good sources?


Which chip are you looking for?



> That's why I kind of like those COBs with the drivers built-in. So far, everything I have seen is.... one driver runs many COBs.


I don't think you'll be impressed with those but they're just like $2 a piece so no big loss. If you don't like them you can do like me and use it as a security light lol.


----------



## Hackerman

Sources... for the Citizen cob you recommended. Cobkits has been out forever.

As for the COBs with built-in drivers..... don't they make brighter (suitable for growing) ones?

Thanks again for the guidance.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Hackerman said:


> Sources... for the Citizen cob you recommended. Cobkits has been out forever.
> 
> As for the COBs with built-in drivers..... don't they make brighter (suitable for growing) ones?
> 
> Thanks again for the guidance.



They have the 4000 and 2700 in both 80 and 90 cri. I'd grab one of each and make a 4 bar. Those are an awesome deal that's why they're selling so fast.

I'd suggest you buy one then buy a cob and compare them. At 55w cobs make the 100w itegrated driver chips look pitiful. I had them in the tent but they were nowhere near as bright so I just replaced it with more cobs.

No problem! Hope you get you a nice light built.


----------



## Hackerman

Well, I did what you suggested and just ordered 4 of the 90 CRI (2 each of 2700 and 4000). This should be a good start just to learn.

For 4 of these chips, which driver would you recommend?

Thanks


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Hackerman said:


> Well, I did what you suggested and just ordered 4 of the 90 CRI (2 each of 2700 and 4000). This should be a good start just to learn.
> 
> For 4 of these chips, which driver would you recommend?
> 
> Thanks



https://www.amazon.com/HLG-185H-C1400B-Power-Supply-Single-Output/dp/B00HKJOHBC


----------



## Hackerman

Once again... thank you.


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Hackerman said:


> Once again... thank you.



No problem homie!


----------



## Hackerman

Cool, my stuff arrived. Couple questions....

1. Do the lights wire in series or parallel?

2. It has wires for a dimmer. What kind of pot/rheostat should go in here? Any 110v 2.4 Amp rated?

3. The wiring from the input has ACL (Live, I assume) and ACN (neutral) as well as a ground. Does it really matter which (L or N) gets connected to which terminal on the plug? I never gave it consideration in the past but now days the plugs have one terminal bigger than the other so I wonder if there is a difference or not.

Thanks again.


----------



## Hackerman

OK, answer number 1... this is a 'constant current' driver vs a 'constant voltage' driver.... so the lights are wired in series. 

Are ya proud of me yet? LOL


----------



## umbra

lol


----------



## Hackerman

What are you laughing at LMAO

I forgot to order the holders. Actually, I didn't forget. I was just going to solder them. I can see it's going to be a lot easier to mount with the holder so I just ordered some.

I also ordered the 100k single turn pot they had for sale. I figure it's probably the one for the job or they wouldn't be selling it. LOL (no laughing umbra. LOL)

http://cobkits.com/product/bourns-100k-potentiomenter/

I also grabbed a dozen of the thermal pads. I didn't like their heat sinks so I'll look elsewhere for those.

Also, FYI, they have a large stock of all colors of the Citizen chips now, as well as the new gen 7 models. $10 is a pretty amazing price for these considering cobkits themselves sells them for $24 on eBay.

Thanks again for the hand-holding.


----------



## umbra

you'll be growing monsters soon enough


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Youtube is your friend. I could tell ya but wouldn't be near as good as someone showing you.


----------



## Hackerman

Yeah, that's much better. Thanks


----------



## sopappy

bombbudpuffa said:


> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HKJOHBC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20



wow, I can actually source this on amazon.CA and it's only 15 bucks more. Somebody screwed up.

Mr H... are you running a thread on this adventure?
(Bomba's thread is excellent more more more) - I'm keeping the budpuff for me
I'm anxious to try this myself, I emailed COB and they'll ship here too.


----------



## sopappy

bombbudpuffa said:


> Youtube is your friend. I could tell ya but wouldn't be near as good as someone showing you.



Wading through all the crap sure is time wasting though, everybody is Steven friggin' Spielberg with the damn music and your title doesn't say My life story and how to germinate seeds. Jezus.

Anybody find any juicy threads on building these, I'd appreciate a heads-up. (Bomba... get a D-cup to assist you and make a quick how-to, you'll be rich)


----------



## Hackerman

Hey pappy, here's a good place for some basic info.

http://ledgardener.com/diy-guides/


----------



## umbra

Hackerman said:


> Hey pappy, here's a good place for some basic info.
> 
> http://ledgardener.com/diy-guides/



LOL you actual checked out some of the links I posted. Good info huh


----------



## sopappy

umbra said:


> LOL you actual checked out some of the links I posted. Good info huh



Nice. Thanks much, lads!
if anybody else is building, post! 

update:  ha, one of the first posts I stumble upon in their forum 
Old noob wants to build a light... perfect.

As soon as I conquor the thripps, I tackle this
I was trying the weighted hose inside the spray bottle thing so I could spray upside down under the leaves (the bastids),
and then I stumbled across these 
https://tinyurl.com/y9dovqoo


----------



## 2RedEyes

sopappy said:


> Nice. Thanks much, lads!
> if anybody else is building, post!
> 
> update:  ha, one of the first posts I stumble upon in their forum
> Old noob wants to build a light... perfect



Mine are not cobs but I like the way they work for my space. I get a quite good spread of light @3500k. I&#8217;m running right about 200watts which gives me about 45 watts per square foot. The plants seem to like it. They run cool with no fans or active cooling. I can run them as close as 6&#8221; from the canopy if I want. Currently about a foot... relatively inexpensive, mine were about $220 in parts. You can run as many as are needed to cover you space...and there are many different drivers available depending on how much power your needing.
Available here 

View attachment E5772EE3-0F54-4859-AE65-BF5BEFD9612B.jpeg


View attachment AC564987-4F0F-44CA-AA83-49CFFA4499B2.jpeg


View attachment 59DE1D7F-6B5F-469B-9020-10BF0D2808AC.jpeg


----------



## Hackerman

I finally got around to putting this all together. Wow, are these things bright. I can't believe this isn't enough to grow with. Even in the last pic you can see it's brighter than my 8 bulb T5.

Still, I found a calculator for calculating LED light requirements and the numbers don't add up so if this is going to feed a 4x4 room, I need to beef it up. 

I am thinking about putting a Quantum board in the middle. That should be able to get me to a 4x4. Also, adding glass lenses might increase performance.

The frame is about 2x2. I did the wiring with snap locks instead of crimp and solder because I am going to make plenty of changes before it's done.

I did put my smartphone LUX meter under it and at about 12" it read 40k. The same conditions under the T5 read 20k.

So far, so good. Now I need to find a nice Q board and accessories.

Best of all.... no blurple.  

View attachment led-1.jpg


View attachment led-2.jpg


View attachment led-3.jpg


View attachment led-4.jpg


View attachment led-5.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

That looks really good. I'm running 7 chips, a 140w bridgelux led light(chips being over driven) and a 400w hps in my 4x4.


----------



## umbra

that's a lot of light


----------



## bombbudpuffa

umbra said:


> that's a lot of light



Around 840w altogether. Bud's seem appreciative lol. 

View attachment 2018-04-17 21.34.10.jpg


View attachment 2018-04-17 21.23.41.jpg


View attachment 2018-04-17 21.19.49.jpg


View attachment 2018-04-17 21.13.16.jpg


View attachment 2018-04-17 21.16.15.jpg


----------



## bombbudpuffa

Gorilla Glue x Long Bottom Leaf chillin' under my cobs.


----------



## Budlight

Looking absolutely beautiful man to be honest you kind a have me drooling over here


----------

