# Help with contruction of my grow room



## EsC420PoT (Feb 9, 2012)

Ok so I'm damn near complete with my grow room and plan on gettin everything set up in the next week. But, still have a couple questions and wanted , o have a thread for me to ask them as i go, or to get any constructive criticism. 

Now ima post up a picture in a min to give yall a lil picture of what its going to look like. Unfortunately, I forgot to take one last night of the most current progress. Basically just the pic i posted with panda film wrapped around every inch (on the inside of the framing)  except for the flooring. Which comes to my first question

Question:
For the flooring, I was thinking of puttin something down to elevate the plants but as well as keeping them off the cold cement flooring... Which is why i havn't put panda film down yet. But, i'm curious as to what kind of material i should put down? My friend suggested putting down a piece of plywood of a couple inches thick and then putting the panda film over the top. But, i was worried for when i upgrade the grow to hydro (since it's soil ATM) that the reservoir will cause rotting underneath the wood after a while despite is being on top of panda film.(since it's happened to me before) So was thinking of something more towards some type of styrofoam that's super durable??? What do you guys think? Or what would be a better alternative? Thanks


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## dman1234 (Feb 9, 2012)

I wouldnt put panda film on the floor, its not needed.

i just put down peel and stick tiles. jmo


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## Grower13 (Feb 9, 2012)

how much do you want to elevate your plants? if you raise them much... I don't think you will need to insulate your plants from the floor...... you ever see those racks they keep stuff up off the cooler floors with in the food service industries...... or milk crates..... or those bread racks..... my wife says those 2liter bottle crates would work too.


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## orangesunshine (Feb 9, 2012)

what i would do is---not cover the floor with anything---since you are thinking of hydro in the future---buy your flood trays now---elevate them with milk crates, pallets, bricks, blocks and/or  2 x 4's and put your soil pots in there---the tray will catch the overflow------use shims for some slope to drain when you water---all drains to one bucket or directly to a waste drain line---be sure to leave yourself enough head room for the elevation, tops of mature plants, and lights---good to change over to hydro when you are ready


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## The Hemp Goddess (Feb 9, 2012)

I also would not use Panda film on the floor.  If you are worried about spills, clean-up, etc, I would lay a solid piece of vinyl and run it up the walls a couple of inches like they used to do years ago (60's 70s?).


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## Grower13 (Feb 9, 2012)

I use a cheap blue plastic tarp to put down on my grow area floor that I'm worried about messing up.


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## oregonduck76 (Feb 9, 2012)

withe paint with primer is all you need on walls,


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## EsC420PoT (Feb 9, 2012)

the only thing is, I need the floor covered with panda film simply for the clean up, and to make sure it's completely air and light tight. I most def will use milk crates I got a bunch of them from Walmart lol (bought, not the dirty shitty ones out back....) But i don't want the plants to always be on the crates... Only at first when the plants are small. (at least until i go hydro) So what you think a slab of flat wood on the ground with panda film over it all sealed from the bottom??

P.S. I have to enclose it to get maximum climate controle as possible.. Where I live it gets super hot in the summer and freezing cold in the winter. I plan on adding insulation, a door, w/e I need to keep my environment stable.
  BTW I posted the pic of my grow room framming. And will soon post up a more current pic to give you all a better idea.


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## PuffinNugs (Feb 9, 2012)

Grower13 said:
			
		

> my wife says those 2liter bottle crates would work too.


 
the wife is smart, i have a bunch of bottle crates they stand about 2-3 inches tall, work perfect


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## GREENIE_420 (Feb 9, 2012)

I used Peel-n-stick shingle underlayment. It's a permanent fix, very durable. Find a new construction site and ask some roofers if they could spare a little. Most (white) guys working on a roof smoke weed, tell'em what its for and they would gladly give you some. A roll cost 40$ at a roofing supply place, Home Depot or Lowes will not have this. But i'm guessing you won't need much.


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## EsC420PoT (Feb 9, 2012)

hm i checked up on that, and not really what im looking for. Thanks tho, i really appreciate it greenie. Now that i think of it, i'm can make due with lifting it off the floor with a inch thick ply wood and just some material over and sealing around edges of the framing to the pandafilm making it ait and light tight. What kinda material would be good for this? Instead of using panda film, i'v seen alot of growers use some type of black tarping material that they lay across the bottom and pin down/seal up around the flooring.


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## Roddy (Feb 9, 2012)

Sorry, but is that a Clone Wars poster?? I'd say that's fitting!!!! 

A tarp would work for the floor and could be removed, shaken off and replaced for easy cleaning...


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## stevetberry (Feb 10, 2012)

My grow closet floor is lined with pond liner.  It comes in defferent widths and I make sure that I get enough to go about 6 inches up every wall.  If everything laked at the same time I would still have no worries.  Almost any other plastic that you put on the floor with tear or get holes in it over time.  JMO.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Feb 10, 2012)

Panda film is not strong enough to be used as a floor.  I repeat.  Buy an inexpensive piece of vinyl and lay it over the concrete and run it up the walls a few inches.


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## EsC420PoT (Feb 11, 2012)

The Hemp Goddess said:
			
		

> Panda film is not strong enough to be used as a floor.  I repeat.  Buy an inexpensive piece of vinyl and lay it over the concrete and run it up the walls a few inches.



What from like home depot? So basically, instead of using panda, use the black vinyl and secure to make light adn air tight as what i wanted to do with the panda film?


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## Hushpuppy (Feb 11, 2012)

Yeah I agree with THG, the vinyl(from Lowes or HD)would be what I would do. I wouldn't lay plywood flat on the floor as that would trap moisture and cause it to rot. I wouldn't try to insulate it from the floor as that coolness will be offset by the heat of the lights. Just put the vinyl down and run it up the walls about 4-6" to seal and trap spills. Also if you want to insulate it good and have reflectivity without having to put sheetrock or panelling in the room, there is some styrofoam insulation board that you can get from Lowes or HD that has mylar on one or both sides. The 3/4" works really good at insulating and it is really reflective, I think about 95%.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Feb 11, 2012)

EsC420PoT said:
			
		

> What from like home depot? So basically, instead of using panda, use the black vinyl and secure to make light adn air tight as what i wanted to do with the panda film?



No, not plastic--vinyl floor covering--linoleum (although it is not linoleum anymore) like you put down in bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms and other places that you do not want carpet--a solid piece of flooring.  If you are not particular about what it looks like you can probably go to a floor covering store and get a remnant for almost nothing.  Be sure to use the correct mastic to put it down (something for concrete.  In the old days, they used to wrap the flooring up several inches.  I think they called it coving.  This way, no water that happened to spill on the flooring could get underneath the floor and cause problems.  It is not hard to do--I have done several small vinyl floors by myself.


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## orangesunshine (Feb 12, 2012)

linoleum .....IMO...covering the floor with anything not completely sealed becomes an invitation to future problems...seems linoleum would solve the light leak and seal the floor making clean up quick and easy...not fond of carpeting the floor with anything that has the potential to harbor mold or pests...durability would also be a priority for me


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## EsC420PoT (Mar 5, 2012)

Hey all! Sorry for the lack of keeping up on my thread. I have been sooooo busy latley. Ne ways, thanks for all the creative and supportive help! As of right now, (since i'm a bit limited on money) Me and my partner decided to recycle a bunch of wood we had left over (2x4's) and just put a plank flooring of them, then just put panda film over it and ran it up the walls a bit, and sealed it. (sorry don't mean to not follow any of the helpful tips, just on a budget and it seemed that this route would suffice, while reusing what we already had.) Please let me know if i'm mistaken, or if there are any concerns about doing this. But thats where that is ATM. I'll post up more pictures of the rooms most current progress in just a few minutes. Let me know what yall think so far? As of right now the room is built, sealed all that good stuff, has the fans mounted and sealed as well, light is in place, carbon filter, ducting. Thats it... We still need to put up a door, and then seal around the door( which i'll be needing help with that as well)  but other than that, the rooms almost ready for plants. 

Question-----
So since i'm most likely going over to the house i'm growing at later today and finishing up the last steps, what should i do around the edges of the door? So that it's light tight and air tight? Or at least something to get it as air tight as possible? I'd say the door way is about... 2-2.5 ft wide. And we plan on putting up some plywood that is about an inch thick with hinges and whatnot. So around the cracks of the door how would i get it to be sealed and keep it from having light shine threw? Thanks

BTW These pics aren't the current progress, these are just the most up to date ones i'v got thus far. Will get more tonight and post them.


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## Hushpuppy (Mar 5, 2012)

On my grow-lab I had 3 doors that I had to build into the walls. I used 2 sheets of 1/2" plywood and 2"x4"s layed flat and sandwiched between the 2 sheets and screwed them together for my doors. then after hanging the doors with hinges, and drilling and mounting the door-knobs, I used 1" strips of plywood and went around the door edge and nailed the strips to the casing of the door-frame on the side of the door where the door opens away from this casing. If you look at an interior door of a house on the side of the door where it opens away from you, when you pull the door closed you will see that it closes against this trim material that is on the sides and top. I put all the way around and on the floor as well so that no light can shine through and then attached some cheap weather stripping to it to completely seal it tight when the door is shut.


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## EsC420PoT (Mar 5, 2012)

Weather stripping is exactly what I was looking for! Thanks yet again Hush . Ight so i'll get some of that then, i'll be wanting to put somthing on the out side to kinda put around the edges to help a bit more with insulating. Simply because i don't think I'm going to be making the whole door as you did, but just using it as a skinny flab of wood acting as a door lol. Would putting some insulated foam pieces from home depot on the door and around it suffice??  

ALSO, posted up pics of the room on previous post, will post more current ones tonight.


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## Hushpuppy (Mar 5, 2012)

I would think if the insulation foam is that thick blue board, it would work good enough


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## EsC420PoT (Mar 7, 2012)

awesome! Ya so ill get some insulating foam and some weather stripping. Thanks. 

Here is the most recent pics. Leme know w hat yall think?

The far left pic is a view from the door way standing outside looking in. Middle left, is a pic of the exhaust and intake ducting connected to the fans.Top ducting is exhaust and the lower one is the intake. The middle right pic is of the intake leading all the way down to the floor and propped back up towards where the plants will be. And lastly the far right pic is of the 1k watt hps connected to the ducting.

1. Question I had about the pic in the middle right, since you can see my carbon filter in the first pic all the way on the left, is on the ground, and I also have the intake leading to the ground, but propped back upwards. My question is, would it be more efficient if I just had the intake leading all the way up to the top of the roof? Rather than straight down to the floor? In an attempt to circulate the air better? Having the air being released up high, and then being sucked out down below?  I know this isn't the best method for this, I'd prefer to have the filter hung high and have the intake low, but sadly the filter is way to heavy to be supported... What yall think?


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## EsC420PoT (Mar 10, 2012)

My bad to double post, just wanting ppl to see this thread under new posts


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## Hushpuppy (Mar 10, 2012)

I would say that it will be best to have that filter up at the top of the space to prevent heat build up in the top of the space. Why is the filter so heavy? I have a carbon filter that I made and it is not very heavy. You should be able to use some "L" brackets to build a shelf up high enough to hold the filter at the top of the space. Other than that, she looks good(just not big enough :doh:  ) So when are you going to build the clone n veg room?


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## Hushpuppy (Mar 10, 2012)

I don't know if you have thought of this but you need to mount the door so that it opens out not in as that will take up a considerable amount of interior space. And make sure that the interior of the door is sealed against moisture as that will cause it to bow and twist if it isn't a standard door


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## orangesunshine (Mar 10, 2012)

EsC420PoT said:
			
		

> awesome! Ya so ill get some insulating foam and some weather stripping. Thanks.
> 
> Here is the most recent pics. Leme know w hat yall think?
> 
> ...



your room looks good man---i agree that the filter needs to be up high---if for nothing else---more floor space---i too have filters that weigh approx 60lbs. and use truck friction tie downs to support them in the air hanging on hooks---4 hooks, 2 straps---check it out---


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## EsC420PoT (Mar 10, 2012)

Hushpuppy said:
			
		

> I would say that it will be best to have that filter up at the top of the space to prevent heat build up in the top of the space. Why is the filter so heavy? I have a carbon filter that I made and it is not very heavy. You should be able to use some "L" brackets to build a shelf up high enough to hold the filter at the top of the space. Other than that, she looks good(just not big enough :doh:  ) So when are you going to build the clone n veg room?


 Thanks hush, i worked hard on it. so,

as to the mounting of the door, ya i was going to put the hindges to where it'll open up outwards. And what kinda material should i use against to from moisture? I was just gonna cover it with panda film and ducting tape, some weather stripping and some insulating foam around the back side.
As for this quote, i'll def try to hang it up, but i'm not sure if the structure can hold it, i could be wrong we did build it by the code, but it's super heavy... I dunno why it's so heavy but it cost me a pretty penny from the hydro store, lol. And what do you mean to small??? I was thinking that in the back of my head, but i'v learned that i want 5k lumens per Sq.Ft. And 5 x 5 space would be more then efficient. Am i mistaken ? Did i misjudge my grow??



			
				orangesunshine said:
			
		

> your room looks good man---i agree that the filter needs to be up high---if for nothing else---more floor space---i too have filters that weigh approx 60lbs. and use truck friction tie downs to support them in the air hanging on hooks---4 hooks, 2 straps---check it out---


Thanks, I can't say it's THE BEST, but it is definitely my best DIY grow room yet. Im proud of it. And yes, what you got there, is exactly what i was thinking of doing. I'll see if the structure can support it and i'll do just as you have in the pics 


Thanks guys


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## Hushpuppy (Mar 10, 2012)

I was kidding about the space being too small. It will be fine but I started out with 2 cabinets that were 4x4 and it didn't take long for me to want it bigger. I added another room that is 5x7 and thought that would be great. Then I added another room that is 7x15, and I redid the cabinets so that I have 1 big space that is 5x7. So I now have about 175sqft of growing space, and I am thinking about how I would love to have about double that. It seems like the more I have, the more I need as I keep getting "friends" that want my buds. I guess I could have worse problems 

If you cover the door with the panda film and tape it to the door all the way around, that shouild prevent any moisture from messing with the door shape.

I had no idea those filters would be sooo heavy. I would definitely se about putting about 3 heavy duty lag hooks into the 2x4 ceiling joists and hanging the filter from those with some strap material. 3 heavy lag hooks should hold it just fine. I would take it down after each grow and use compressed air to back blow the filter to get out as much dust and crud as possible so that you can extend the life of it.


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## EsC420PoT (Mar 11, 2012)

Right on! THanks hush


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## EsC420PoT (Mar 11, 2012)

Ok, so i tried convincing my partner that we should hang the filter up above, and he isn't going for it. Unfortunately, I am partnered on this project, and sadly I can't always do everything as i please, atleast when it comes to the construction since my partner is Mr.Time Alen Home Improvement. I'm 100 percent positive that the structure can support the filter, but he honestly feels it wont hold... Or is just being lazy, which i feel it's just that... Because he just wants the thing up and running, and i'm being very picky and taking every measure to ensure it'll be the most efficient... So, I guess for now i'm stuck with leaving it on the ground in the corner, at least for the first harvest. So now my question is this,
Question---------------------------------
Judging from the pics above, since the filter is on the ground in the corner, should i have my intake ducting line go up towards the roof, pointed downward at the plants? Rather then having it leading all the way down to the floor and prop it back up? I feel the way I have it now, will just suck the air straight across the bottom into the filter, rather than circulating air through out the whole room? Or, I could stack like 3 or 4 milk crates and then put the filter on top of that, so that it'd be placed more towards the top/middle of the room rather then being placed at the bottom of the floor.


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## orangesunshine (Mar 11, 2012)

imo intake air should be low to the ground for cool temps and exhaust high for heat---everything off direct contact with the floor for easy cleaning


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## ozzydiodude (Mar 11, 2012)

I would try to convence him to put the filter high it will pull more of the cool air out of the growarea if it is low. The higher the filter the more hot air it will pull out.


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## Hushpuppy (Mar 11, 2012)

yeah, if your buddy isn't convinced now about moving the filter up high, he will be when he loses the first set of plants because of them overheating and dying. Trust me I have been there and done that, and lost a whole crop to heat stress, and had to harvest another crop way early because of heat stress. If nothing else, get the milk crates and raise that thing as high as you can then strap it to the wall so it doesn't get knocked over into the plants. Leave the intake air on the floor as cooler air falls and warmer air rises(even with fans moving it).

What kind of lighting are you planning on using? If you can, you really need to have an air cooled hood or cool tube that is connected to outside air both coming and going. I don't have vented hoods, only open batwing fixtures and I am constantly fighting heat.


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## EsC420PoT (Mar 12, 2012)

Hushpuppy said:
			
		

> yeah, if your buddy isn't convinced now about moving the filter up high, he will be when he loses the first set of plants because of them overheating and dying. Trust me I have been there and done that, and lost a whole crop to heat stress, and had to harvest another crop way early because of heat stress. If nothing else, get the milk crates and raise that thing as high as you can then strap it to the wall so it doesn't get knocked over into the plants. Leave the intake air on the floor as cooler air falls and warmer air rises(even with fans moving it).
> 
> What kind of lighting are you planning on using? If you can, you really need to have an air cooled hood or cool tube that is connected to outside air both coming and going. I don't have vented hoods, only open batwing fixtures and I am constantly fighting heat.



I do i have air cooling hoods lol! Don't you see the pics above? it shows my 1k watt fixture from above attached to the exhaust ducting. And ya i guess i'll have to just raise it up on the milk crates... He's kinda being a puss about things lately...


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## PuffinNugs (Mar 12, 2012)

ii also agree get that filter raised up. after than you could probably loose some of that extra ducting, would be probably quiter and run more efficent


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## EsC420PoT (Mar 12, 2012)

well the other problem i noticed as well, is the exhaust is 6 inch and the intake is 4 inch, and the exhaust is a 400 cmf fan and the intake is, hm off the top my head 175-200 cmf?? And figured because of the long ducting of the exhaust, it would equal out just about right. But now I noticed, that i'm going to have to stretch about 10 ft more on the other side of the intake to the window.... Am I feel that it will reduce the intake to low... What yall think?


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## orangesunshine (Mar 12, 2012)

from what i see you may be in for some heat issues come summer time cause you might be in a garage---it does not look like you have a/c and i never saw any insulation or drywall---as far as air flow goes---imo the more the merrier---shortest straightest route and when ever possible pull instead of push---you can find ducting reducers at homeboy depot


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## EsC420PoT (Mar 14, 2012)

Well im def pulling way more than pushing, I'm just afraid i might be pulling to much... But i guess that's not much of a problem since if it's pulling more than pushing, wouldn't that still suffice??


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## Hushpuppy (Mar 14, 2012)

Hey yeah I missed the light fixture that the ducting that we were talking about went throuigh :doh: 

I could be wrong but I would put the stronger fan just on the outside or inside of the wall of the room, exausting the air, then mount the other fan at the other end of the hose that is exausting the air to the outside so that both fans are pulling air from the inside. I wouldn't put a fan on the intake as the exausting will pull air into the room through the passive intake by negative pressure. This will assure that there is no positive pressure that could send flower aromas anywhere but into the filter. My brother tried to push-pull and it didn't work well and he battled heat because of it.   I wouldn't worry about the difference in the size of the intake unless you find that it isn't moving enough air. Or are you talking about the size of the fans? if that's the case, you can just get a neck-down collar from the Depot or Lowes and still use it that way. I think it would work well like that.


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## EsC420PoT (Mar 20, 2012)

Thanks once again Hush


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## EsC420PoT (Mar 21, 2012)

SO....  Kinda got a problem... I finally finished everything! Pics soon to come! But, When i turned it on, and shut the door... The panda film started to get sucked off the framing... Like ripping threw the staples and whatnot and coming up, basically sucking it self up... So there is obviously way to much exhaust air flow...

I hate to say it, but i might have to switch things into positive pressure to where the intake is pushing in more so than the exhaust... Or get a reducer for the exhaust... WHat you guys think? As of right now, i switched everything out for the veg period. Meaning its got the filter and whatnot, but it's not hooked up(since i only want to use for flowering) And the 1k watt is taken down for now and replaced with a 20k lumen t5 floro set up to help conserve on energy. (I know, don't worry i'm going to add another 20k lumen t5 set up, i'm well aware 1 isn't enough.) And just have the intake on, and the exhaust off. And it's acting as a passive exhaust basically. It was pushing against the walls and blowing it up a bit, but just to the right balance. And is pushing air out the only opening there is, the exhaust ducting. Despite the fan not being on, it is still exhausting from the pressure. And since it was so late, i figured it was fine for now, didn't have the patience anymore.. But, please! Let me know what you guys think i should do, as well as what you think of the current set up i explained above. 


First 2 pics below is the room set up for flowering. Second pic to the left is of the 1k watt (filter detached for the pic) As for the ones with all the plants, is the room set up for veg.  The far right pic is of the intake ducting going all the way to the ground and then being proped back up towards the plants. And the bottom left one is just showing the front and the door. And the last one is showing the intake ducting traveling to the window. (well once i'm able to show the last pic... Can't get it uploaded atm)


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## EsC420PoT (Mar 21, 2012)

PEOPLES! REPLY!!! I'M SO BORED AND NEED TO KNOW!!!!!  love you!


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## orangesunshine (Mar 21, 2012)

back to post #38---you need walls or might try carpet tack strip inside the room tack the mylar to the framing


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## nouvellechef (Mar 21, 2012)

Staple it better. Or get a speedster for your fan. And get that ballast off the floor homey. Those holes in the handles are meant for something. Get a 1/2" wide(I think mine were) bolt and drill a hole in the stud right there and mount that thing. No electrical on da floors yo.


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