# There are no Stupid Weed Questions



## Hippie420

This is a thread where anyone, new or old, can ask marijuana related questions without fear of being laughed at or brow beaten. Anyone is welcome to ask or answer. All I ask is please be kind. Everyone was a beginner at one time. After all, we're all stoners or we wouldn't be here!

Back in the late '60s, I bought every book on pot growing that I could find in the local headshops. Back then, there was no internet to order from, and buying one through the mail was just begging an investigation from your local alphabet boys.
The most expensive one I'd bought was by a guy named Ed Rosenthal. Decent book for the day, but a few falsehoods.
The biggest one was that leaving your lights on 24 hours a day would kill a plant. Trust me, it won't. I've done it many times in veg cycle. No harm to the plants whatsoever. 

I'm not sure it was his book or not, but one book I had mentioned that you could graft the top of a hops plant (yep, the stuff they make beer out of) onto a marijuana root stem and have a hops vine that contained THC. I'd heard years later that it didn't work, but I can't verify it.

My question; Has anyone ever tried grafting an indica or sativa plant onto a ruderalis
stem/root system? What would be the results/benefits?

Feel free to comment, or list your own questions. Like my buddy WeedHopper says, "The only stupid question is one you don't ask."


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## pute

Ok, how in the fk did I get caught with pot by a cop.  Even more stupid, how did we become fishing buddies years later?


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## Hippie420

You shouldn't be reekin', peekin', and freakin' in public. Good way to meet the Boys in Blue.
You must be a forgiving soul. I'd slice a hole in his waders and push him out into deep water.


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## Bubba

pute said:


> Ok, how in the fk did I get caught with pot by a cop.  Even more stupid, how did we become fishing buddies years later?


That's a good one. Does he smoke?

Bubba


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## joeb631a

Hippie420 said:


> You shouldn't be reekin', peekin', and freakin' in public. Good way to meet the Boys in Blue.
> You must be a forgiving soul. I'd slice a hole in his waders and push him out into deep water.






 My most happiest day !


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## Bubba

I've read those too. Ed's book, one just called "Pot" and "child's garden of grass", which was also on a vinyl album. Well, an album version.

I do remember the deal with hops grafting, but I can't recall where that info was.

I remember another old book whose title escapes me, it's instructions were basically put it in dirt. Wait, and water. It was hand illustrated. 

What was interesting to me was a section on feminizing seeds.

Different to than today's method, used a chemical called colchicine or something similar to treat the seeds.

Bubba


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## Hippie420

Bubba said:


> What was interesting to me was a section on feminizing seeds.
> 
> Different to than today's method, used a chemical called colchicine or something similar to treat the seeds.
> 
> Bubba


Yep, read the same thing. In the old TV series Quincy, they even did a show on people dying from smoking the weed after the seeds had been treated.


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## pute

Hippie420 said:


> You shouldn't be reekin', peekin', and freakin' in public. Good way to meet the Boys in Blue.
> You must be a forgiving soul. I'd slice a hole in his waders and push him out into deep water.


Exactly, I deserved it.  Didn't know there was a cop driving right next to me and I took a huge hit......I looked over and he was motioning me to pull over. 




Hippie420 said:


> You shouldn't be reekin', peekin', and freakin' in public. Good way to meet the Boys in Blue.
> You must be a forgiving soul. I'd slice a hole in his waders and push him out into deep water.





Bubba said:


> That's a good one. Does he smoke?
> 
> Bubba


 

We actually became good friends 20 years later.  I never smoked in front of him.  He didn't even know he busted me until I told him.....should have seen the look on his face.  Priceless.  

Fishing makes strange friends.  He bought a car from me and I helped him with a service problem at another dealership. He moved to Montana and I haven't spoken to him in years....  True Story.


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## ness

Never drafted an Indica or Sativa but if I was to try, I would go with the Sativa since it grows the longest.


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## WeedHopper

I'll graft weed on a tomato plant. Should make a good salad.


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## joeb631a

WeedHopper said:


> I'll graft weed on a tomato plant. Should make a good salad.


throw some basil and some olive oil and you are golden !


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## WeedHopper

I did some research on the grafting marijuana to hops and really didn't see to much but ppl asking the same question.


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## pute

I have a question...where is the question?


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## pute




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## spunom

My grow room is my spare bedroom. I have a 4x4 tent in that room and am going to put in a 3'x1.5' veg box in so I can have a flower and veg space. I never zip the walls closed on my 4x4 because I have no air extraction system. I believe that is hurting my grows since there is nothing pulling the used air out of the whole room and limiting reflection.

I could vent through the ceiling into the attic, but I don't want to put a hole in it (or any other wall). I've thought about extraction through the north or west side window, but I don't want it to be obvious. I mean, a piece of plywood or whatever sitting at the bottom of a window with a fan blowing out during winter could raise alarms that I can't afford to be raised.
Not from the smell... I can filter it and hide that, but it looks suspect.

There is one vent for the heat pump/ac in the floor of that room that I believe I could MacGruber to suck the air out into the space under my house (it sits on cinder blocks) if I were to pull the ducting off of it and funnel a fan underneath. My questions are: 

Would the space underneath the bedroom door be enough to draw in enough fresh air to supplement the air that is being drawn out, or would I have to have a larger opening to accommodate that? 

and

If that is enough, what CFM fan would be enough to refresh the air in a 9'x12' room?

or

Would it be better to have both grow spaces vented separately into the vent?

if so

Would that vent hole be large enough to pull the bad air out with two vent tubes running to it with a fan pulling out of each grow space and out of the room?

I hope all of that makes sense


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## WeedHopper

I remember a guy asking if he could put flavored juice in the water for his plants if it would make it taste kinda like that flavor.
Of course the assholes that use to be on here made him feel like an idiot and he left the site and never came back.
Really pissed me off and I let them know it.
They should have explained to him why it wouldn't work but no,,, they wanted to be super growers and act like assholes.
That's why I like this thread. New growers can feel free to ask any question they want without being treated like shit.
1st person I catch treating a member like that will be called out quick fast and In a hurry.


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## WeedHopper

spunom said:


> My grow room is my spare bedroom. I have a 4x4 tent in that room and am going to put in a 3'x1.5' veg box in so I can have a flower and veg space. I never zip the walls closed on my 4x4 because I have no air extraction system. I believe that is hurting my grows since there is nothing pulling the used air out of the whole room and limiting reflection.
> 
> I could vent through the ceiling into the attic, but I don't want to put a hole in it (or any other wall). I've thought about extraction through the north or west side window, but I don't want it to be obvious. I mean, a piece of plywood or whatever sitting at the bottom of a window with a fan blowing out during winter could raise alarms that I can't afford to be raised.
> Not from the smell... I can filter it and hide that, but it looks suspect.
> 
> There is one vent for the heat pump/ac in the floor of that room that I believe I could MacGruber to suck the air out into the space under my house (it sits on cinder blocks) if I were to pull the ducting off of it and funnel a fan underneath. My questions are:
> 
> Would the space underneath the bedroom door be enough to draw in enough fresh air to supplement the air that is being drawn out, or would I have to have a larger opening to accommodate that?
> 
> and
> 
> If that is enough, what CFM fan would be enough to refresh the air in a 9'x12' room?
> 
> or
> 
> Would it be better to have both grow spaces vented separately into the vent?
> 
> if so
> 
> Would that vent hole be large enough to pull the bad air out with two vent tubes running to it with a fan pulling out of each grow space and out of the room?
> 
> I hope all of that makes sense


Do what I did to my walk-in closet door where my grow room was built. I put a vent in the bottom of the door. Easy to cut the hole and add the vent. That allowed me to pull more fresh air into the closet. My closet already had an ac vent in the ceiling but I wanted more airflow.


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## pute

Great questions spunom.


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## spunom

WeedHopper said:


> Do what I did to my walk-in closet door where my grow room was built. I put a vent in the bottom of the door. Easy to cut the hole and add the vent. That allowed me to pull more fresh air into the closet. My closet already had an ac vent in the ceiling but I wanted more airflow.


I could do that with the bedroom door. I'm ok with making a hole it in to allow more air intake. I could even black room filter the hole to keep unnecessary light out of the room. Thank you homie.


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## spunom

pute said:


> Great questions spunom.


I've never had good air exchange. I want to improve so I can grow better bud like I see y'all growing, and I know that no vent is one of my bigger problems.


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## WeedHopper

No problem brother. That's what this thread is for.
And yessir,, exchange of fresh air is very important.


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## Hippie420

^^^Unless it's a sealed room with supplemental CO2.


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## CrashMagnet

Why not use the window part of a portable AC? Lots of people, myself included, have them in their windows year round. That would give you up to an 8" hose to vent through.


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## CrashMagnet

Speaking of venting, are any of the ducted vent fans reversible? My tent is in a small room under the stairs in my shop. I have a vent outside and a vent to the shop. The tent is 32"X32"X63" and it has a TSW3000 for lighting which can cook the plants in a few minutes if I close the tent when it's set to max. If I could reverse the fans to always draw from the coolest vent and exhaust to the warmest, I think I could keep the temperature better controlled. It could be done with a lot of extra duct work, or with double vents and fans everywhere, but reversible fans would really simplify things.


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## spunom

CrashMagnet said:


> Why not use the window part of a portable AC? Lots of people, myself included, have them in their windows year round. That would give you up to an 8" hose to vent through.


Never thought of that. It's perfect and simple (the way I like it ) Thanks homie.


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## WeedHopper

CrashMagnet said:


> Why not use the window part of a portable AC? Lots of people, myself included, have them in their windows year round. That would give you up to an 8" hose to vent through.


He is wanting to pull fresh air in. I wouldn't suggest pulling it from outside. Venting outside would work great though.
Maybe I misunderstood. Whoops


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## WeedHopper

This was what I was reading.

Would the space underneath the bedroom door be enough to draw in enough fresh air to supplement the air that is being drawn out, or would I have to have a larger opening to accommodate that?


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## spunom

I could vent through the ceiling into the attic, but I don't want to put a hole in it (or any other wall). I've thought about extraction through the north or west side window, but I don't want it to be obvious. I mean, a piece of plywood or whatever sitting at the bottom of a window with a fan blowing out during winter could raise alarms that I can't afford to be raised.

Was looking for both man. I just didn't want the exhaust to be suspect, but the portable ac window thing is a great idea. A lot better than tearing up my duct work under the house lol


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## WeedHopper

Totally agree. Looks like your hooked up brother. I'll be watching.


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## Bugus_Monkey

WeedHopper said:


> I remember a guy asking if he could put flavored juice in the water for his plants if it would make it taste kinda like that flavor.
> Of course the assholes that use to be on here made him feel like an idiot and he left the site and never came back.
> Really pissed me off and I let them know it.
> They should have explained to him why it wouldn't work but no,,, they wanted to be super growers and act like assholes.
> That's why I like this thread. New growers can feel free to ask any question they want without being treated like shit.
> 1st person I catch treating a member like that will be called out quick fast and In a hurry.


For what it's worth... Before I luckily found this place I was at a forum where this happened on a regular basis all the time.  It's like they waited around to devourer the new guy. I can't remember where I posted here but a week or so back they almost imploded because of each other.  My first thought was I need to somehow get this to Hopper.  I didn't and it is just as well.  I can't stand their smug pompous arses. I never been banned from anywhere that I know of, not even FB which Mrs. Monkey has actually been banned from a number of times now. I just wanted to stir their pot and watch them eat each other.   They are not worth the extra strikes on the keyboard.  Great Thread - I will be asking a few questions once I get caught up with real work today.


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## CrashMagnet

CrashMagnet said:


> Speaking of venting, are any of the ducted vent fans reversible? My tent is in a small room under the stairs in my shop. I have a vent outside and a vent to the shop. The tent is 32"X32"X63" and it has a TSW3000 for lighting which can cook the plants in a few minutes if I close the tent when it's set to max. If I could reverse the fans to always draw from the coolest vent and exhaust to the warmest, I think I could keep the temperature better controlled. It could be done with a lot of extra duct work, or with double vents and fans everywhere, but reversible fans would really simplify things.



Never mind. This was a dumb idea. I'm just going to upgrade to a 6" fan and reduce it to 4" where it goes through the tent, and always vent to the outside. If I reversed the flow I would need a carbon filter and a way to rout around it when the flow reversed, etc. Some increased airflow is probably all I will need to get the temp back down to 85 or so.


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## Bubba

joeb631a said:


> throw some basil and some olive oil and you are golden !


And some homemade mozzarella.


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## Bubba

CrashMagnet said:


> Never mind. This was a dumb idea. I'm just going to upgrade to a 6" fan and reduce it to 4" where it goes through the tent, and always vent to the outside. If I reversed the flow I would need a carbon filter and a way to rout around it when the flow reversed, etc. Some increased airflow is probably all I will need to get the temp back down to 85 or so.


On the fans, no smaller than 6 inch, and I myself a glutton for overkill, the infinity 8 inch.
It moves twice the air their 6 inch does and has enough power to really move some air. My 4x4 in bedroom overheats in summer, I can run a vent tube all the way down stairs and pull up plenty of air. The larger models, 10 inch and above can be used as whole house attic fan type installation. Shutting all vents except lower intake and upper exhaust, I could darn near collapse the tent! Not really, but it blows so much more than my 6 inch it is ridiculous. Very handy when cooling is needed big time, it can suck air in that the 4 inch or 6inch doesn't come close.

You are spot on about the need for fresh air.

Bubba


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## CrashMagnet

In my tiny tent I think an 8" fan might suck buds off the plants!


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## Bubba

CrashMagnet said:


> In my tiny tent I think an 8" fan might suck buds off the plants!


Well yeah. This is for 4x4, hps, very hot room. 20+ feet of venting to get downstairs to cool air. You could leave it on lowest setting! If you plan on adding flower, veg or clone tent, you could daisy chain and the large fan will suck plenty. Downside to overkill is expense, both fan and filter.

Bubba


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## CrashMagnet

Bubba said:


> Well yeah. This is for 4x4, hps, very hot room. 20+ feet of venting to get downstairs to cool air. You could leave it on lowest setting! If you plan on adding flower, veg or clone tent, you could daisy chain and the large fan will suck plenty. Downside to overkill is expense, both fan and filter.
> 
> Bubba



I'm bad about throwing money at problems. I only regret my excess when I see my CC bill, so I have it set to auto pay : )


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## SubmarineGirl

CrashMagnet said:


> Why not use the window part of a portable AC? Lots of people, myself included, have them in their windows year round. That would give you up to an 8" hose to vent through.


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## SubmarineGirl

thats a good idea. Seeing a window unit not suspicious like my view on the way to the garage which my guests so far have not noticed or at least asked about. anyone from this thread would be all over it tho…


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## CrashMagnet

On to another stupid question. Is there a simple (I mean cheap) way to measure N-P-K in water and adjust the ratios? Replacing the reservoir water seems like a waste when I don't even know its condition.


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## WeedHopper

Bugus_Monkey said:


> For what it's worth... Before I luckily found this place I was at a forum where this happened on a regular basis all the time.  It's like they waited around to devourer the new guy. I can't remember where I posted here but a week or so back they almost imploded because of each other.  My first thought was I need to somehow get this to Hopper.  I didn't and it is just as well.  I can't stand their smug pompous arses. I never been banned from anywhere that I know of, not even FB which Mrs. Monkey has actually been banned from a number of times now. I just wanted to stir their pot and watch them eat each other.   They are not worth the extra strikes on the keyboard.  Great Thread - I will be asking a few questions once I get caught up with real work today.


My Wife is also banned from both accounts she had on FB for 30days. She is a radical 
Ask away brother. That imploding crap won't happen but once in this thread.


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## spunom

WeedHopper said:


> Totally agree. Looks like your hooked up brother. I'll be watching.


Very much so. Thanks y'all for the knowledge.


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## spunom

CrashMagnet said:


> On to another stupid question. Is there a simple (I mean cheap) way to measure N-P-K in water and adjust the ratios? Replacing the reservoir water seems like a waste when I don't even know its condition.


I got a soil test kit at wm for around $5. It says to use distilled water so as to not influence the soils NPK. I imagine it could test the NPK if your res water the same as it does soil. It measures pH also.


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## RosterMan

SubmarineGirl said:


> thats a good idea. Seeing a window unit not suspicious like my view on the way to the garage which my guests so far have not noticed or at least asked about. anyone from this thread would be all over it tho…View attachment 291127


I made a screen to fit my basement window out of old screen frame. I then replaced the light easy to see through screen material with a block out screen material. The Blk out is super dark black and makes it very hard to see anything inside.


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## Hippie420

WeedHopper said:


> Ask away brother. That imploding crap won't happen but once in this thread.


Yep. That was the whole idea in starting this thread. Questions are always welcome. Bad attitudes aren't.


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## CrashMagnet

spunom said:


> I got a soil test kit at wm for around $5. It says to use distilled water so as to not influence the soils NPK. I imagine it could test the NPK if your res water the same as it does soil. It measures pH also.


Thanks, I should have guessed. All I had to do was replace water with soil in my google search.


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## Hippie420

Still haven't had any of the heavy weights chime in on my grafting question. Might just have to find a source for ruderalis and try an experiment myself.


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## WeedHopper

I'm did some research on it brother. It's a waste of my time. Different chromosomes. You won't get the THC.


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## WeedHopper

CrashMagnet said:


> On to another stupid question. Is there a simple (I mean cheap) way to measure N-P-K in water and adjust the ratios? Replacing the reservoir water seems like a waste when I don't even know its condition.


That's pretty much where chosing the right ferts comes in because they already have adjusted the NPK for veg and flower.
If in soil they make make test kits to test your soil where you will know what's already in your soil where you can adjust. I never had a problem with my soils so I don't bother.
In Hydro it's water your working with and adding your ferts that should already be adjusted.


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## RosterMan

Hippie420 said:


> Still haven't had any of the heavy weights chime in on my grafting question. Might just have to find a source for ruderalis and try an experiment myself.


I remember years ago my grand dad who had many apple trees did grafting
He would take 6 different apple branches and graft to a very healthy stock stump tree. They all continued to produce the fruit of what tree they were originally.
Like a weeping cherry tree is made , and blk cherry stump base and the weeping branches grafted onto it. 
If I remember correctly he had one tree started as an apple stock healthy stump trunk
and grafted plum , cherry, and two other apple branches to it.
The tree use to grow all kinds of fruit , True story.


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## Hippie420

WeedHopper said:


> I'm did some research on it brother. It's a waste of my time. Different chromosomes. You won't get the THC.


Weird. Isn't the cross pollination of the ruderalis and sativa/indica plants how they get autos?
I'm confused. Doesn't take much to confuse me, though.

I never could figure out chemistry, either. Take H2O. Two hydrogen molecules and one oxygen. It's the stuff we're basically 70% of. Add one more oxygen molecule to the mix and you get H2O2. In it's pure state, it'll melt the hide off of ya! Weird.


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## Bubba

Not so much can you measure ratios without a bunch of lab stuff. But, you can tell from plant reaction to some degree.what can be measured is PH and EC, or how much nutes are in the water. These measurements, along with observing the plants condition will allow you to adjust what needs adjusted.

Bubba


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## joeb631a

pute said:


> I have a question...where is the question?


good question !


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## joeb631a

Hippie420 said:


> Weird. Isn't the cross pollination of the ruderalis and sativa/indica plants how they get autos?
> I'm confused. Doesn't take much to confuse me, though.
> 
> I never could figure out chemistry, either. Take H2O. Two hydrogen molecules and one oxygen. It's the stuff we're basically 70% of. Add one more oxygen molecule to the mix and you get H2O2. In it's pure state, it'll melt the hide off of ya! Weird.


you have tasted my exs chicken soup...


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## WeedHopper

Hippie420 said:


> Weird. Isn't the cross pollination of the ruderalis and sativa/indica plants how they get autos?
> I'm confused. Doesn't take much to confuse me, though.
> 
> I never could figure out chemistry, either. Take H2O. Two hydrogen molecules and one oxygen. It's the stuff we're basically 70% of. Add one more oxygen molecule to the mix and you get H2O2. In it's pure state, it'll melt the hide off of ya! Weird.


Sorry I was talking about grafting weed to hops.


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## CrashMagnet

WeedHopper said:


> That's pretty much where chosing the right ferts comes in because they already have adjusted the NPK for veg and flower.
> If in soil they make make test kits to test your soil where you will know what's already in your soil where you can adjust. I never had a problem with my soils so I don't bother.
> In Hydro it's water your working with and adding your ferts that should already be adjusted.



Most of the hydro stuff I've read recommends replacing the solution periodically because it gets unbalanced as the plants consume the nutrients. If I knew what they were depleting, I could just add that back in instead of replacing the whole reservoir. Might even give me a better idea of what the ratio of nutrients should be. 

I am starting to lean back toward soil, though. I still find hydro entertaining, but I can tell I will get tired of micromanaging things after a while. Soil just requires less attention.


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## WeedHopper

And yep it is fairly easy to graft fruit trees. It's done all the time.


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## CrashMagnet

WeedHopper said:


> Sorry I was talking about grafting weed to hops.


Wonder what the beer would taste like.


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## WeedHopper

Crash I have done both. Soil is much easier to me and temps are not such a problem.
I grew a lot of weed in DWC buckets I made myself. The only problem I actually ran into was temps. The solution needs to stay cool to have healthy roots. Plus PH is much more important.
I like working with soils and making my own compost and using compost teas.
But I like both soil and DWC.


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## Hippie420

I ran a R-DWC and changed the solution once a week. When you use cheap nutes, you can afford to do that. 
My first was the dreaded Miracle Gro, and I had good results, but I found that Shultz seemed to have a better ratio of the good stuff I was after, so I started using it. Of course, I used different blends from veg to flower. I'd have to dig out my old notes to tell ya exactly what I used and when. I do remember that I replaced the H2O2 on a daily basis, along with a daily PH check.
Don't even think about running a R-DWC unless you have a wet & dry vac handy. It happens.


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## Hippie420

While I'm at it, I might as well get the RO water folks mad. I never could see taking out trace elements only to spend big money to put 'em back.


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## WeedHopper

When I was in Florida because of the heat and humidity I would fill a 5 gallon bucket everyday with the ac condensation runoff outside the house. The house was new so the condensation was clean too.
Thats what I used in my DWCs. Worked great but I had to keep an eye on pH because it came out at like 4.


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## Hippie420

Ever hear of Legionnaire's disease? Might just be a northern thing.


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## joeb631a

WeedHopper said:


> And yep it is fairly easy to graft fruit trees. It's done all the time.


I gave my niece a apple tree with 5 different strains grafted on it for her something i forget 15 years ago .The tree is over 10 feet tall with different varieties of apples which the deer love..


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## joeb631a

Hippie420 said:


> Ever hear of Legionnaire's disease? Might just be a northern thing.


sometimes a cruise ship thing too


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## WeedHopper

Hippie420 said:


> Ever hear of Legionnaire's disease? Might just be a northern thing.


Yep but that was from old units that were not taken care of or maintained properly. This was a brand new house and new unit. Very clean water


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## joeb631a

WeedHopper said:


> Yep but that was from old units that were not taken care of or maintained properly. This was a brand new house and new unit. Very clean water


you want a clean unit if you want to use it


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## RosterMan

joeb631a said:


> you want a clean unit if you want to use it


I try to use my unit at least 2 x;s a day on the weekends maybe more if the wife is home


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## spunom

CrashMagnet said:


> Most of the hydro stuff I've read recommends replacing the solution periodically because it gets unbalanced as the plants consume the nutrients. If I knew what they were depleting, I could just add that back in instead of replacing the whole reservoir. Might even give me a better idea of what the ratio of nutrients should be.
> 
> I am starting to lean back toward soil, though. I still find hydro entertaining, but I can tell I will get tired of micromanaging things after a while. Soil just requires less attention.


If you really want to simplify things, I recommend SIPs and organic soil. Once you get you're soil dialed in, its easy street from there on. Just fill your res when it gets low with plain ol' water.


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## Bugus_Monkey

My question for the day... Has anyone had to go beyond 12/12 to get a strain to start to bud? 
My Advanced Seeds Gorilla Blue has been in 12/12 for about a week (maybe 10 days) longer than my Blackberry Kush.
I am currently attributing that to my better lighting over my Kush - Photontek - VS my Vipraspectra Blurples over the Gorilla Blue in soil.


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## Carty

How does calmag affect bud development?


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## Hippie420

Bugus_Monkey said:


> My question for the day... Has anyone had to go beyond 12/12 to get a strain to start to bud?
> My Advanced Seeds Gorilla Blue has been in 12/12 for about a week (maybe 10 days) longer than my Blackberry Kush.
> I am currently attributing that to my better lighting over my Kush - Photontek - VS my Vipraspectra Blurples over the Gorilla Blue in soil.


The guy that developed the cross between Black Vietnamese and Northern Lights said he had some that wouldn't pop 'til he'd cut back to eight. He also said that any that took more than twenty weeks to mature got tossed. By the time I'd gotten hold of the strain, it was claimed that twelve weeks would get you nice buds. Fourteen weeks was much better. Beautiful buds that slapped hard. I started 'em out on twelve hours and gradually cut back to ten.


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## WeedHopper

Carty said:


> How does calmag affect bud development?











						Cal-Mag for Plants: What It Is & Why, When, and How To Use It - WhyFarmIt.com
					

If you’re looking for a supplement to feed your plants, you need to know about Cal-Mag before you buy just any old supplement with a few positive reviews. Cal-Mag is a highly recommended supplement for plants that includes crucial nutrients necessary for achieving optimal growth and high yields...




					whyfarmit.com
				



Click on the link above and read the whole article. The below is just a little piece.
*Cal-Mag is a liquid supplement that provides much-needed calcium, magnesium, and iron to both hydroponic and soil-based plants. The micronutrients in Cal-Mag are primary ingredients needed by all plants but especially by plants that bloom or produce fruits or vegetables*


----------



## WeedHopper

Bugus_Monkey said:


> My question for the day... Has anyone had to go beyond 12/12 to get a strain to start to bud?
> My Advanced Seeds Gorilla Blue has been in 12/12 for about a week (maybe 10 days) longer than my Blackberry Kush.
> I am currently attributing that to my better lighting over my Kush - Photontek - VS my Vipraspectra Blurples over the Gorilla Blue in soil.


I have used 14 off and 10 on and I can't swear to it but it seemed to have caused my buds to swell more then 12 on and 12 off. Never did a side by side because I didn't have two of the same light systems nor the time and space. But I grew the same strain twice and the 14 off and 10 on did seem to give me bigger buds with more trichomes.


----------



## Bubba

Hippie420 said:


> While I'm at it, I might as well get the RO water folks mad. I never could see taking out trace elements only to spend big money to put 'em back.


For me it's an easy decision. My tap is 250 if I run the cold a few minutes. That's to much, plus the filth in tap water is flat gross. If you smelled the remaining a in my water still you would never drink tap water again. I don't even feed it to my pets or plants.

Worse part is, ph of my tap water is way to high. Almost 8.
After RO, oh is a nice 6.4 and particle read is 0-1.

Previously I used distilled water, and it takes almost 3 hours to run a gallon. RO does it in a few minutes.

Bubba


----------



## Hippie420

Yep, that's almost twice the PPMs as mine. Mine also never comes out higher than 7.


----------



## CrashMagnet

spunom said:


> If you really want to simplify things, I recommend SIPs and organic soil. Once you get you're soil dialed in, its easy street from there on. Just fill your res when it gets low with plain ol' water.



I think the simplest method for me has been the dutch bucket using perlite. There's literally no guess work, and no experience required. As long as the pump runs, you know the perlite is wet, and as long as the pump stops, you know the plants have O2. Even the timing is flexible. The reservoir contains a perfect measure of the entire system, both what goes into it as well as the run off. I've transferred plants that were dying in soil or DWC to my tomato dutch bucket, and they all recovered. When I wanted my tomatoes to start blooming early, I just added extra phosphorous and potassium to the reservoir and a few days later they were blooming (that also killed my recovering okra seedling... oops).

Definitely going to try SIPs this summer, though probably not with cannabis. I tried it using coco and perlite and made a mess of things. Going for straight soil next time. I started composting a few weeks ago, so trying to avoid adding nutrients to the water. Still have some learning to do, though. Giving NFT a go as well.


----------



## spunom

Right on. I've seen several folks have great success with the buckets. I might give it a go on a future run. I have the GH nutrients.


----------



## JaggedGardens

Hi All!

First post, first question, and a "breederly" one at that.

I am working my first line (Garlic Cookies/GMO [clone only] X Kashmir [Azad/POK]), and found what I was looking for in the first gen of beans. In other words, instead of working toward something with a 1/1 or dual line strategy, I am looking at trying to lock down a cut in seed form. 

A series of back crosses in under way, C99 or Santa Maria style, that I hope along with good selections of male progeny will give me a reliable representation of her in seed form. We'll see...I know the success of the backcrossing technique is dependent of the genetic profile/stability of the mom, so it's only one stab at it.

That said, another obvious approach is to make S1's and go from there, but in this case there is something a little interesting going on. From seed, at around the 5-6th nodes, her stem faciated for a couple nodes, and then she split herself with perfect symmetry into two main stems. I'll note also that prior to the split, a third branch began appearing at intervals seemingly random in relation to the normal branch pairings. Pic is her from seed, probably a little over 6ft.





So here is my question(s): Any idea what is going on genetically here? Some kind of mutation is at play, and my thinking is perhaps she is polyploid. If so, is it (A) possible that there are some genetic nuances between her two halves, and (B) might marrying her two halves instill broader genetic diversity to her offspring than in a typical S1 situation? A good breeding pair from a single plant would be an interesting find...I'd have to seek out some testers, should there be any interest 'round these parts in the long run.

She finishes in 6weeks light dep, produces the most resin-dense buds I have ever grown (I'm getting over .3 dry weight compared to wet), and is far and away the best smoke I have ever had.

Her name is Goldilocks.




Thanks, everyone, and apologies for the long-windedness!


----------



## Bubba

Hippie420 said:


> Yep, that's almost twice the PPMs as mine. Mine also never comes out higher than 7.


For weird water like mine it's great. Several here say their tap water is fine for use after sitting out overnight. I just got lucky!

Bubba


----------



## joeb631a

spunom said:


> Right on. I've seen several folks have great success with the buckets. I might give it a go on a future run. I have the GH nutrients.


I had hair like that in a galaxy longtime ago and   far far away...


----------



## RosterMan

Bubba said:


> For weird water like mine it's great. Several here say their tap water is fine for use after sitting out overnight. I just got lucky!
> 
> Bubba


I am lucky too, my tap comes out around 150ppms a dead 7PH always
I use a filter before sink which removes Chlorine but I still do air bubbler in 5 gal buckets 24 hrs to be sure


----------



## spunom

joeb631a said:


> I had hair like that in a galaxy longtime ago and   far far away...


Looks like it grew out nicely.


----------



## Recoba

I bought this and when it was delivered I realized it says Hydrophonics, can I use this for the soil?





__





						Google Image Result for https://www.edenhorticulture.co.uk/Images/Product/Default/xlarge/HYV-0165%20-%202.jpg
					





					images.app.goo.gl


----------



## WeedHopper

Yep . Ph up and down is added to water no matter how your using it.


----------



## choxie

Chlorine and chloramine really isn't a big deal. If it's toxic for you, then it's toxic for the plants so why waste extra time for something that doesn't really affect anything.

My pH is around 7.8-8.0 on the tap and ppm is around 230-270 and I just go with it and add the nutrients until it's at my target ppm for the stage of growth and everything is peachy! My SIP goes through around 2.5-3 gallons per week times 2 and I'm just too lazy to go buy 6 gallons of water lol!

Also I suggest bloom plus veg dry fertilizer since it makes everything much simpler in terms of cost, mixing multiple solutions, etc. I also add cal mag because that's the trendy thing to do! 
No deficiencies for me!


----------



## joeb631a

choxie said:


> Chlorine and chloramine really isn't a big deal. If it's toxic for you, then it's toxic for the plants so why waste extra time for something that doesn't really affect anything.
> 
> My pH is around 7.8-8.0 on the tap and ppm is around 230-270 and I just go with it and add the nutrients until it's at my target ppm for the stage of growth and everything is peachy! My SIP goes through around 2.5-3 gallons per week times 2 and I'm just too lazy to go buy 6 gallons of water lol!
> 
> Also I suggest bloom plus veg dry fertilizer since it makes everything much simpler in terms of cost, mixing multiple solutions, etc. I also add cal mag because that's the trendy thing to do!
> No deficiencies for me!


are you using a earth box?


----------



## SubmarineGirl

choxie said:


> Chlorine and chloramine really isn't a big deal. If it's toxic for you, then it's toxic for the plants so why waste extra time for something that doesn't really affect anything.
> 
> My pH is around 7.8-8.0 on the tap and ppm is around 230-270 and I just go with it and add the nutrients until it's at my target ppm for the stage of growth and everything is peachy! My SIP goes through around 2.5-3 gallons per week times 2 and I'm just too lazy to go buy 6 gallons of water lol!
> 
> Also I suggest bloom plus veg dry fertilizer since it makes everything much simpler in terms of cost, mixing multiple solutions, etc. I also add cal mag because that's the trendy thing to do!
> No deficiencies for me!


I’ve never let my tap water sit before watering. My city water has a good PH usually under 7 and ppm under 200. I haven’t had any real problems so far maybe I’ve just been lucky too.


----------



## choxie

joeb631a said:


> are you using a earth box?


Nope! Using an octopot
It's great as it always has the optimal water amount and oxygenation. I started in only soil, but it just never really took off that fast, but after transplanting, it's growing 50% faster or more.

The small picture was after transplanting and the other one ( post below this reply) is after 3 weeks ish


----------



## choxie

SubmarineGirl said:


> I’ve never let my tap water sit before watering. My city water has a good PH usually under 7 and ppm under 200. I haven’t had any real problems so far maybe I’ve just been lucky too.



Wow that's to lucky!!! I hate fiddling with the pH all the time.


----------



## joeb631a

choxie said:


> Nope! Using an octopot
> It's great as it always has the optimal water amount and oxygenation. I started in only soil, but it just never really took off that fast, but after transplanting, it's growing 50% faster or more.
> 
> The small picture was after transplanting and the other one ( post below this reply) is after 3 weeks ish


Im assuming a octopot works like a earthbox?
My earth box holds 2 gal of water i believe


----------



## spunom

What I don't like about the earthbox is that the wicks are at the corners. It's not a bad thing, I just don't like it because your plant's water roots (imo) do better (faster) straight down rather than having to spread to the corners first.

I built my SIPs off of the octopot design (sort of) where you get water distribution from the center with a much bigger wick which allows your water roots to dive straight down to drink (and takes less time) while your feeder roots take over the rest. Wetting of the soil is equal(ish), but just my two pennies.

Note: I've never used either the earthbox or octopot. Just my beliefs on the efficiency.


----------



## SubmarineGirl

choxie said:


> Wow that's to lucky!!! I hate fiddling with the pH all the time.


I still check it every time. Don’t really trust it totally. Sometimes I add a little ph down but only a couple of drops


----------



## choxie

Octopot is similar but mine holds 6 gallons of water which is nice. 

I adjust my water until it's pH is at 6.0 for my purposes so like 2-4 times per gallon which is a pain


----------



## WeedHopper

SubmarineGirl said:


> I’ve never let my tap water sit before watering. My city water has a good PH usually under 7 and ppm under 200. I haven’t had any real problems so far maybe I’ve just been lucky too.


If city water was a problem how the fk would I water all my trees,bushes,flowers, and veggies without killing them. My place is covered with a beautiful lawn, trees,fruit trees, black berries, blueberries,and flowers of all kinds. No fking way would I be trying to hand water all that stuff with 5 gallon buckets full of water that had set for 24hrs with a bubbler.
Now I do collect rain water when it rains to water my my veggies just give them fresh rain water when I can. Other than that my plants,trees, veggies,fruits, and marijuana when I'm growing gets tap water and I've never had a problem. If chlorine was a problem I think we gardener's would be screwed.
Now if I lived in Flint Michigan that might be a problem.


----------



## spunom

This amazes me. For the past few years, I've been buying spring water ($60ish/month) to water my plants because sooooo many people talk about how this and that in tap water is bad for them. I never bothered to pH test my tap water until today. I can't test ppm because my meter is dead, but at a pH of 7.1, I guess I can save some money.


----------



## SubmarineGirl

spunom said:


> This amazes me. For the past few years, I've been buying spring water ($60ish/month) to water my plants because sooooo many people talk about how this and that in tap water is bad for them. I never bothered to pH test my tap water until today. I can't test ppm because my meter is dead, but at a pH of 7.1, I guess I can save some money.


Your city may post the PH and ppm coming to your house but I wouldn’t rely on it totally. Your tap PH doesn’t seem that bad just a couple drops to bring it down to what you like to grow at. I go with about 6 now after reading some that go with 5.8 and 6.5. I use to go with 6.5 with no problems tho.


----------



## spunom

SubmarineGirl said:


> Your city may post the PH and ppm coming to your house but I wouldn’t rely on it totally. Your tap PH doesn’t seem that bad just a couple drops to bring it down to what you like to grow at. I go with about 6 now after reading some that go with 5.8 and 6.5. I use to go with 6.5 with no problems tho.


I like mine at 6.7. I added my EM to a gallon of tap to test, and got 6.6 so pretty happy with that.


----------



## CrashMagnet

Speaking of PH, does anyone know why DWC water PH could rise from 5.8 to 7.9 overnight? It happened once before, and stopped after I replaced the water and readjusted. 

I added a frozen water bottle without removing the previous one, so the water level was a little higher, touching the hydroton. I pulled both bottles out this morning and readjusted. In an hour or two I will check again, but if it's like last time it will be back over 7.


----------



## WeedHopper

Never used hydroton so Im not sure if it could raise pH.


----------



## RosterMan

WeedHopper said:


> If city water was a problem how the fk would I water all my trees,bushes,flowers, and veggies without killing them. My place is covered with a beautiful lawn, trees,fruit trees, black berries, blueberries,and flowers of all kinds. No fking way would I be trying to hand water all that stuff with 5 gallon buckets full of water that had set for 24hrs with a bubbler.
> Now I do collect rain water when it rains to water my my veggies just give them fresh rain water when I can. Other than that my plants,trees, veggies,fruits, and marijuana when I'm growing gets tap water and I've never had a problem. If chlorine was a problem I think we gardener's would be screwed.
> Now if I lived in Flint Michigan that might be a problem.


Just for the heck of it next time you have a bucket of rain water chk PH and see if it is true about the acid rain


----------



## WeedHopper

Okay I just did some reading and everybody says h.ell no hydroton does not raise pH.


----------



## RosterMan

WeedHopper said:


> Never used hydroton so Im not sure if it could raise pH.


It should not once rinse real well to get all the dust off
It is only clay balls


----------



## WeedHopper

Checked my rain water and it was about 7.


----------



## RosterMan

Pretty cool on how they are made
Expanded clay pellets (Hydroton) are made by* heating the clay to over 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit*. The process is done in a rotary kiln. As the balls heat up, they fill with bubbles and form into small marble-sized units. While the clay can be used on its own for growing plants, it can also be mixed with soil and other growing media.


----------



## pute

Good thread Hippie


----------



## RosterMan

Hippie is the Man as I envision him


----------



## CrashMagnet

TheBlackHydra said:


> It should not once rinse real well to get all the dust off
> It is only clay balls


They were well rinsed, so I'm out of ideas. The PH was above 8 when I checked, and that was barely two hours after I pushed it down to 6. The seedlings are big enough I went ahead and added some nutrients. That lowered it to 7, and then I added more vinegar to push it back down to 6. I did pull the top off and check one more time, but still no dead mice in there : )


----------



## RosterMan

What was the PH of the water that you rinsed the hydroton with? If the hydroton retained water with a higher ph, maybe it could have offset the ph of the water your running in it now. Just a thought.


----------



## CrashMagnet

TheBlackHydra said:


> What was the PH of the water that you rinsed the hydroton with? If the hydroton retained water with a higher ph, maybe it could have offset the ph of the water your running in it now. Just a thought.



It was tap water ~7.5, but it's just six 4" baskets of hydroton in 30 gal of water. That is, 30 gal of PH adjusted tap water.


----------



## Hippie420

TheBlackHydra said:


> Hippie is the Man as I envision him
> View attachment 291408


Yep! That's me and the Old Hen alright! You been spyin' on me?


CrashMagnet said:


> They were well rinsed, so I'm out of ideas. The PH was above 8 when I checked, and that was barely two hours after I pushed it down to 6. The seedlings are big enough I went ahead and added some nutrients. That lowered it to 7, and then I added more vinegar to push it back down to 6. I did pull the top off and check one more time, but still no dead mice in there : )


I've always had good luck using phosphoric acid to lower PH. Find some milkstone remover at your local farm store. It's the same stuff the grow shops sell, but less than half the price and a little more powerful. It's even the same color.


----------



## joeb631a

TheBlackHydra said:


> Hippie is the Man as I envision him
> View attachment 291408


handsome ! which one is he?


----------



## RosterMan

CrashMagnet said:


> It was tap water ~7.5, but it's just six 4" baskets of hydroton in 30 gal of water. That is, 30 gal of PH adjusted tap water.


Try rinsing some real well a few times and then load them clay with phed water over night and drain it and then use it. I bet it comes down closer to what you want.
be a good test with a small gallon size amount to prove .


----------



## RosterMan

joeb631a said:


> handsome


Figures you be lusting him and not his Beautiful wife
Im digging her beard


----------



## joeb631a

TheBlackHydra said:


> Figures you be lusting him and not his Beautiful wife


you can tell the difference!?


----------



## RosterMan

joeb631a said:


> you can tell the difference!?


Yes it is just like sexing an early weed plant
You have to check for the balls


----------



## joeb631a

Hippie420 said:


> Yep! That's me and the Old Hen alright! You been spyin' on me?
> 
> I've always had good luck using phosphoric acid to lower PH. Find some milkstone remover at your local farm store. It's the same stuff the grow shops sell, but less than half the price and a little more powerful. It's even the same color.


I have been  using lemon juice


----------



## CrashMagnet

TheBlackHydra said:


> Try rinsing some real well a few times and then load them clay with phed water over night and drain it and then use it. I bet it comes down closer to what you want.
> be a good test with a small gallon size amount to prove .


That's a good idea. I can at least test if they are the cause. Seedlings won't be happy having their medium changed, but if that really is the cause it's better than dumping acid in the tank continuously...


----------



## CrashMagnet

I went to a local nursery and asked about the PH issue. As soon as I said vinegar he stopped me and said that's the cause. I said I was using it with tomatoes in a dutch bucket, and the PH wasn't doing the same thing. He said it was, but I just hadn't noticed it, and that the more I use the worse it will get. 

I wanted to go look for milkstone remover, but I had taken up a lot of the guy's time asking stupid questions, so I bought a gallon of PH down. He also told me I didn't need to change out the water, but I would need to adjust it every day for a few days. That beats carrying 12 5 gallon buckets in and out.

I'm still testing the hydroton, though. Just in case.


----------



## Hippie420

I'll bet the PH down you bought was kind of an orange color, right? You can get a gallon of the milkstone remover for $16 last time I bought it.


----------



## WeedHopper

Great thread Hippie. Good job brother.


----------



## choxie

CrashMagnet said:


> Speaking of PH, does anyone know why DWC water PH could rise from 5.8 to 7.9 overnight? It happened once before, and stopped after I replaced the water and readjusted.
> 
> I added a frozen water bottle without removing the previous one, so the water level was a little higher, touching the hydroton. I pulled both bottles out this morning and readjusted. In an hour or two I will check again, but if it's like last time it will be back over 7.



Yes I'm in a similar situation. When the plant takes up certain nutrients it will alter the pH and swing upwards if you don't have the correct balance of certain nutrients. This was in my octopot instructions. I really don't know how to adjust it to keep my pH neutral, but I generally have to add pH down daily to keep my pH at 6.0 otherwise it'll hit 7.0 in 1 daily normally.

Also temp changes the absorption of certain nutrients and thus changes the pH. Like in the human body if you're hypokalemic, then there's a hydrogen potassium antiporter that will switch them one for one. Meaning if your potassium is low, your cells will trade 1 potassium molecule for 1 hydrogen which will in turn increase your pH.


----------



## WeedHopper

Lower your solutions ph lower than normal and let it climb.


----------



## CrashMagnet

WeedHopper said:


> Lower your solutions ph lower than normal and let it climb.



I put it at 5.4 in case I don't have time to adjust it before work tomorrow. The upswing has slowed considerably since I switched to PH down, though. It was climbing almost one point an hour. Now it's more like half a point every two hours.


----------



## WeedHopper

Good job my friend.


----------



## Carty

WeedHopper said:


> Lower your solutions ph lower than normal and let it climb.



Ah Crap... I've been doing this wrong all this time then.  I've been repelling.  Thanks man, great advice.. hehe


----------



## choxie

Well only problem at 5.4, the plant doesn't take up nutrients and my pH just stays there. It's only when it's at 5.8+ that the pH will suddenly take off. I'm guessing it's a bit too low and locks out absorption.


----------



## Bugus_Monkey

I have been doing a lot of snooping around here with what little free time I got. IDK if this can help and maybe it is outdated.
Hopefully it comes out right.






						pH chart
					

Check this out. This is a pH chart form my Plant Science book. I'd site the work, but I don't know if they want the credit.




					www.marijuanapassion.com


----------



## choxie

Oh yes I've seen that a while ago. It's probably the absorption of potassium that changes the pH.


----------



## CrashMagnet

Those charts make me think we could play with the PH to address different nutrient deficiencies, or that maybe PH was the reason for the deficiency in the first place.


----------



## CrashMagnet

I really like this thread. Most of the questions I've asked are stupid questions, but I get a pass here. 

So when counting flowering weeks, do I count the week I switched the light cycle to 12/12, or do I wait until I see signs of flowering to start counting?

This is either week 5 or 7 (of 8-10). Seems like it has at least 2-3 more weeks to go (need a better camera).


----------



## CrashMagnet

I have to ask.... does anyone else smell bud when looking at pics of them?


----------



## WeedHopper

I count from the time I flip. That tells me from start of flip to finish ,,,,how long it takes them to be ready for harvest.
But that don't mean shit *Unless* it's a clone of the same strain I'm growing again.


----------



## joeb631a

CrashMagnet said:


> I went to a local nursery and asked about the PH issue. As soon as I said vinegar he stopped me and said that's the cause. I said I was using it with tomatoes in a dutch bucket, and the PH wasn't doing the same thing. He said it was, but I just hadn't noticed it, and that the more I use the worse it will get.
> 
> I wanted to go look for milkstone remover, but I had taken up a lot of the guy's time asking stupid questions, so I bought a gallon of PH down. He also told me I didn't need to change out the water, but I would need to adjust it every day for a few days. That beats carrying 12 5 gallon buckets in and out.
> 
> I'm still testing the hydroton, though. Just in case.


Do people mix hydroton with soil?


----------



## WeedHopper

Probably could i guess? I use coarse Perlite.


----------



## joeb631a

WeedHopper said:


> Probably could i guess? I use coarse Perlite.


What amt of perlite do you add to your soil?


----------



## WeedHopper

About 30%.
I also put an inch or so on top of my soil.


----------



## WeedHopper




----------



## joeb631a

WeedHopper said:


> View attachment 291946
> View attachment 291947
> View attachment 291948


View attachment 291949

Nice I got a huge asz bag from Griffen supp I have near me . I use coast of maine soil


----------



## WeedHopper

I use MG (Twice as big) soil mixed with perlite.


----------



## joeb631a

WeedHopper said:


> I use MG (Twice as big) soil mixed with perlite.
> 
> View attachment 291951
> View attachment 291953


do you reuse your soil?


----------



## WeedHopper

Yes i do if im re-potiing. I will mix it with fresh soil before i re-pot


----------



## joeb631a

WeedHopper said:


> Yes i do if im re-potiing. I will mix it with fresh soil before i re-pot


Use any rice hulls ,insect frass ,or any amendment?


----------



## WeedHopper

Nope. I use Cal Mag when needed and MG Bloom Booster if needed, according to what the plant is. Dont need much of nothing but water for quite a while.


----------



## bombtombadll

I don't know what a bud is... HA top that  !


----------



## WeedHopper

A bud is your good friend who drinks beer with you.


----------



## CrashMagnet

WeedHopper said:


> A bud is your good friend who drinks beer with you.


OK, I'll enter his pic in the next BOM contest. Pretty sure he won't win, though.


----------



## WeedHopper

Ya never know.


----------



## WeedHopper

Bump


----------



## CrashMagnet

OK I have one, what's the best way to generate all female seeds? I have colloidal silver, female plants, etc. What I have trouble finding is reliable info on how much to dilute it, how often and how long to use it, etc. Can I use the same trick on autos as well?


----------



## RosterMan

CrashMagnet said:


> OK, I'll enter his pic in the next BOM contest. Pretty sure he won't win, though.


A real bud is one who gets two back rubs with happy endings 
Then comes over and says hey I just had two, and gives you a free one.


----------



## CrashMagnet

I'm afraid that would have a violent ending, not a happy one : )


----------



## RosterMan

Oh you Beast LOL


----------



## Hippie420

OK, I've got one for ya; Remember I was talking about buying all sorts of pot books back in the early 70s? One of 'em had a cure method that I never tried, but a friend did. It invloved taking a plastic box (rectangular tuppaware) with some good sized holes in the top, puting your buds in the box, and then floating the box in a small aquarium with water that is held at a steady 100 degrees. You knew when it was done because the green weed had turned into a peanut butter brown color. One of the mellowest smokes I've ever had.

Again, I never tried it. Any of you old timers remember the method?


----------



## CrashMagnet

Hippie420 said:


> OK, I've got one for ya; Remember I was talking about buying all sorts of pot books back in the early 70s? One of 'em had a cure method that I never tried, but a friend did. It invloved taking a plastic box (rectangular tuppaware) with some good sized holes in the top, puting your buds in the box, and then floating the box in a small aquarium with water that is held at a steady 100 degrees. You knew when it was done because the green weed had turned into a peanut butter brown color. One of the mellowest smokes I've ever had.
> 
> Again, I never tried it. Any of you old timers remember the method?



I'm guessing the top of the aquarium has to be higher than the top of the box to keep the humidity constant?


----------



## oldfogey8

WeedHopper said:


> A bud is your good friend who drinks beer with you.


----------



## Hippie420

CrashMagnet said:


> I'm guessing the top of the aquarium has to be higher than the top of the box to keep the humidity constant?


From what I remember of the book, the aquarium was half full and the pla stic box just floated on top of the water. I don't imagine it would take too long at 100F to drive the clorafil out of the buds, but I don't know. The friend that tried it is long dead, so I'd have to contact Miss Cleo if I wanted to ask him.  
If I find myself with time for sillyness in the future, I might give it a try just for shits & giggles.


----------



## oldfogey8

Hippie420 said:


> OK, I've got one for ya; Remember I was talking about buying all sorts of pot books back in the early 70s? One of 'em had a cure method that I never tried, but a friend did. It invloved taking a plastic box (rectangular tuppaware) with some good sized holes in the top, puting your buds in the box, and then floating the box in a small aquarium with water that is held at a steady 100 degrees. You knew when it was done because the green weed had turned into a peanut butter brown color. One of the mellowest smokes I've ever had.
> 
> Again, I never tried it. Any of you old timers remember the method?


Sounds almost like a low and slow decarboxylation. I have seen articles where people have decarbed weed using a sous vide type of process. My question is wouldn’t that make the bud moist because of the humidity?


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## Hippie420

Don't know for sure. I imagine you'd still have to jar it and watch the moisture level 'til it got to the desired level.
Might have to try it just to see.


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## oldfogey8

Maybe dry and partially cure then vacuum seal in a mason jar and put the jar in a hot tub for example. No moisture in or out and the temp of a hot tub is tightly controlled so set it at 100 and see what happens. I have a lot of old bud(done dating back to 2015 that has been stored with Boveda packs and vacuum sealed. Most of it is golden brown and quite smooth. It doesn’t hit as hard (buzz-wise) as it used to but has a really mellow, peaceful body and mind buzz. I know most people don’t have old weed around and what they do have, they smoke up. I just couldn’t keep up with my supply which is why I kinda stopped growing(almost).


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## pute

I must be boring.  I read Jose Cervantes' book, followed his instructions and still pretty much do it his way.  Funny thing......it actually works.


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## RosterMan




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## Bugus_Monkey

OK - I'm not freaking out. I would say I am just past half way done with flowering this current run. Anyhow - I have some leaf edges that are browning up. I will post leaf pictures and a bud for general reference.  I am OK with just waiting it out BUT if there is something that someone else has dealt with in reference to these brown edges or what could be a potential catastrophe in the making, please give me / us a shout here. They are not exactly everywhere but they are slowly gaining in numbers. Leaves and a bud pict. What is wrong with these leaves if anything? Thank You.


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## WeedHopper

CalMag


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## Bugus_Monkey

Question: In my res I run a big aquarium bubbler, double lined, 2 huge air stones connected underneath 24/7 and from the top  I water with a pump in the res on the timer. The timer is one of the click ones, each click being 15 minutes. I currently have 5 clicks pushed in - so 5 - 15 minute feedings every 24 hours... What is every one else running if anyone has a similar set up? I'm not having problems - I'm just curious... A couple early mornings back I checked existing threads here and couldn't find much. Possibly, someone smoke a few and sound off, if you choose, when you get a spare couple minutes. Thank You


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## CrashMagnet

What kind of soil/medium are you using? Only auto feed I'm currently running is with tomatoes in perlite, and they get 15 minutes every 3 hours. Not much different than your timing. I don't think you need an air pump, at least not in perlite. The roots get plenty of air as long as the medium is allowed to drain fully between feedings.


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## Bugus_Monkey

I ended up googling it finally last night. I really did search old threads all over. It is sort of a ** loaded question now after reading up on it. Way too many variables based on humidity and the look of the growth that your getting. Enough to get the roots wet and not enough to drown them. Let them dry but not too dry.  I smoked a few before bed and then looked it up. Every person who takes on hydro knows or should know your dealing with a slightly different monster. Wow, I'm way high and coffeed up this AM. LOL - Time for a break.


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## OGKushman

15 min waterings are prob drowning them. I water for 3 min lights on, 2 min @ 4 hours in, and 3 min 8 hours in, 1/4” drip lines no heads on them, 396gph pump. Total on time is 8 minutes. Plants are 5’ tall.


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## Jgutta420

This is a question for future reference. Wondering if I take a syringe and use it to very carefully pollinate one of the lower smaller buds would just THAT bud produce seeds and the rest remain sinse? Once I find a strain I enjoy I would like to try it and see what happens. I don’t do clones, don’t have the patience. Has anyone ever tried this? I found a thread from 2009 that briefly touched on this with no definitive conclusion and I’m not finding much online on the subject. That thread did mention the upper buds got more resinous I guess in an attempt to catch pollen thinking a male plant was near. Potency wasn’t mentioned. Again, sorry for the dumb questions…noob learning here!


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## WeedHopper

I usually use a small paint brush and pollinate a limb. Cover the limb with a plastic bag. Wet down the rest of the plant to kill any pollin that might have got on the other limbs and then remove the bag carefully.
And there are no dumb questions.


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## Jgutta420

WeedHopper said:


> I usually use a small paint brush and pollinate a limb. Cover the limb with a plastic bag. Wet down the rest of the plant to kill any pollin that might have got on the other limbs and then remove the bag carefully.
> And there are no dumb questions.


So it is possible then? No hit on the quality of the other buds?


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## Hippie420

If your tent has a fan in it, you can wind up pollinating the entire plant. It can be done, but ya gotta go easy. If ya can, slide a baggie over the branch you want to pollinate, mist the rest of the plant with water, and go ahead and pollinate the selected branch/bud site.

Cloning is easy. Any dummy can do it. I'm living proof!


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## Jgutta420

Hippie420 said:


> If your tent has a fan in it, you can wind up pollinating the entire plant. It can be done, but ya gotta go easy. If ya can, slide a baggie over the branch you want to pollinate, mist the rest of the plant with water, and go ahead and pollinate the selected branch/bud site.
> 
> Cloning is easy. Any dummy can do it. I'm living proof!


I’ll give it a shot on the next go-round then. Like you and @WeedHopper suggested with the bag and misting of other branches. And yes, I have 3 fans. Perhaps I’ll just turn em off for 24 or so hours. Thanks for the tips y’all.


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## RosterMan

Hippie420 said:


> If your tent has a fan in it, you can wind up pollinating the entire plant. It can be done, but ya gotta go easy. If ya can, slide a baggie over the branch you want to pollinate, mist the rest of the plant with water, and go ahead and pollinate the selected branch/bud site.
> 
> Cloning is easy. Any dummy can do it. I'm living proof!


I agree Once you learn to clone and not lose the time it takes for a seed to open and reach the same point as your clones will be is savings enough.


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## RosterMan

Next time you have a plant that needs to be thinned , take some small clone cuts and practice rooting some. Many easy ways to do so. This way you will find how easy you too can do it.
Hey if I could do it my 1st attempt anyone can .


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