# 2 weeks old:should be bigger?got pics



## mojomon (Jul 23, 2005)

Do these plants look like they should @ 2 weeks? Seems like they might be growing a little slow. There was some nutrient burn early on, so I flushed and it seems to be gone. Growth just seems a little slow. Any input is appreciated--
(please see my other posts on "general indoor growing" under "mojomon")

Thanks,
Mojo


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## bizzy323 (Jul 23, 2005)

Do you have any nuts in the system now? Also how far is your light from the top of the plants?


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## mojomon (Jul 23, 2005)

Using just "base" nutrient (1&1/4 teaspoon per 5 gallon reservoir).  MH grow light ("conversion" bulb used in 400w hps ballast) @ 3 feet from top of plants.  Just installed the mylar all around on walls today.  I have ordered a chiller for the res, as the ambient room temp never goes much below 80 degrees F.
Planning on changiing out res and adding "Maxigro" "grow"  nutrients in a few days.  Roots are now visible through bottom of net pots and resting in NFT solution as it flows through.


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## GanjaGuru (Jul 23, 2005)

I'm thinking along the same lines as bizzy323.

My seedlings are about the same size at 5--6 days.

I noticed that some leaf tips are dead.  That indicates a nutrient imbalance.  I suggest flushing/purging the system and starting with fresh water, pH adjusted to 5.5.  
Dose with a quality full-spectrum veg nutrient.

And the light seems too high.


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## mojomon (Jul 23, 2005)

Guru:
Have already flushed earlier this week with pH balanced water for 24 hours.  Burn seems to have stopped at bottom leaves and has not progressed.  I am using distilled water, pH balanced and mixed with small amount of nutrients.  I was hesitant to move the light any lower for fear of burning them up, but I will try moving it down to 2 feet and see what happens.    The guide that came with my system says I should be giving them the nutrient dose they have right now at this stage in the grow cycle, but as this is my first grow, I don't know what is actually correct---
Thanks for your info and assistance--
Mojo


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## bizzy323 (Jul 24, 2005)

mojo don't follow the grow guide that came with the system that grow guide is for growing tomatoes not marijuana. I did the samething on my frist grow and i messed up my plants. you shouldn't have any base or anything in your system for aleast the frist 2-3weeks does nuts that come with the system are crap. run your system with clean balanced water nothing else for a week until you start giving them maxi grow. Also bring your light down as much as possible, put your hand on the top of the plants and if you feel hit then it's too much down. I start off at 2ft and go down until i feel hit on top of the plants. I think 3ft is too far for mh. good luck


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## mojomon (Jul 24, 2005)

Thanks--brought the light down to 18 inches above tops. Will start flushing tomorrow, and my nutes should be arriving around middle of next week, so I will add maxi gro then. I guess the first grow is always a learning experience...
If these all turn out to be males after all of this, I think my head will explode :}

The pic shows the new light position---


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## bizzy323 (Jul 24, 2005)

they will be fine just don't rush on the nuts or you will burn your plants.


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## bizzy323 (Jul 24, 2005)

what strain are you growing anyways?


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## mojomon (Jul 24, 2005)

Thanks bizzy--
Did you say that you had used this NFT system before?  If so, what was your final yield like?  Were you happy with the result, and did you continue to use it as your grow method?  I'm starting to wonder if I might have done better going with an ebb & flow or drip system instead.


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## mojomon (Jul 24, 2005)

I'm growing 3 plants of Global Northern Light and 3 of Starlight.  Got them from a seed company in Amsterdam.  I have some called Master Haze, but I am waiting to try growing that when I have a little more experience.


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## GanjaGuru (Jul 24, 2005)

Whoa whoa whoa there podner--dropping the light from 3' to 18" just like that could burn up your plants.


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## mojomon (Jul 24, 2005)

Okay, I just brought it back to 2 feet.  How long before I move closer?


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## bizzy323 (Jul 24, 2005)

How hot is it inside your grow room? Just keep it at 2ft for now don't worry about putting it down let the plants grow alittle then put it down another 5-6inches down see if you feel any heat.


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## mojomon (Jul 24, 2005)

The area around the plants stays between 75-80 degrees, and the overall room temp usually 80-85 degrees.  I'm in a hot climate so summer temps are really cooking now.  I have central air conditioning (house ambient temp never gets much above 75 degrees), and I keep the grow room intake and exhaust fans (as well as the oscillating fan) running 24/7.  I will be installing an IceProbe aquarium chiller in my 5 gallon res next week, as I am a little worried that the high water temp may be impeding growth.
Got the light at 2 feet and will leave it there till plants mature a bit.

Question:   I have a 400w hps that the guide says should be used once I go to flower stage.  Is this correct?  I've heard MH can be used from start to harvest.


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## bizzy323 (Jul 24, 2005)

Mojo that is correct, you can use either mh or hps from start to finish, but you get better yield if you use mh for veg and hps for flower, so use mh for veg and hps for flower if you have it, if not  it's still fine don't worry. Also the temps seem fine to me and the plants look great for 2weeks, mine are way slower for 2weeks, maybe i'm growing in soil thats why. peace


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## mojomon (Jul 24, 2005)

Cool, I will switch to HPS for flower (hope they make it!).  Glad to hear they look good for 2 weeks, I was thinking they should be alot bigger.  Right now they seem stable and healthy for the most part, so I will just proceed with caution.  Man, this is like raising a kid!  Nature, nurture, etc...
Much appreciation for the guidance---
mOjO
P.S.: I am having trouble downloading an image into to my profile so it displays when I post like yours and everyone else's.  Not sure what I am doing wrong, as KB size is small enough.  Any suggestions?


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## bizzy323 (Jul 24, 2005)

I choose mine from the ones they have over here, so I don't know can't help you on that.


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## mariofromontario (Jul 25, 2005)

hey mojo .. your plants look fine for 2 weeks, to me , considering the problem at the start.


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## mariofromontario (Jul 25, 2005)

hey mojo .. your plants look fine for 2 weeks, to me , considering the problem at the start, they look great.. Im only guessing, but i think you waited around the right amount of time to drop your lights. The roots were having a hard go. Id wait until the roots have a good start in the trays before dropping the light to 12 inches, or whatever gives you best coverage. like guru said. 
youre res is dark, and well lit. try keeping it shaded. when yo get youre chiller, keep in mind your res will condensate.
. If water temp gets above 70 plant growth will slow,(less oxegen) but worse yet pathogens and a host of other root eaters will thrive.. i hate to be a hydrogen pusher, but i really recomend using hydrogen peroxide. at least until you have a few crops under your belt. This will minimize warm water problems. you could increase youre res size to slow down temp, ph and food swings. you picked a tricky way to grow, Nft is hard, i worked at a hydroponics store for a few years and ive heared stuff about things. it is a great way to grow, im sure you will work out the bugs. and if you ever wanna change methods you can easily covert your system to a drip system, or even ebb and flow, you do however have it set up for (im my opinion) the best of the three. All sytems that you buy are just shells, drip and ebb and flow still need all the extra crap an nft does to really benefit from growing hydroponically. TAKE CARE
MARIO .


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## mojomon (Jul 25, 2005)

Thanks Mario:
I noticed today that there were what appeared to be a discoloration or slight brownish spotting in the veins of the larger leaves (see photo), and also that a couple of the plants seem to be drooping in appearance, just not standing up as tall and firm as they have been. Light too close? Too much heat? Nutrient problem? I'm flushing the sytem again before ny new nutrients arrive. Thanks for any thoughts.


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## mariofromontario (Jul 25, 2005)

id recomend getting a very common food like generall haydroponics flora , the one with grow micro and bloom. so many people use this food, advice will be easier to get. if you dont have a ppm pen you should get one. this will give a very good idea of how much food exist in you res. The plants to me look hungry, especially for nigtrogen. the downard curl, or lack of water pressure may leed one to think the opposite, but because i cant see any burnt leaf tips or waxy dull leaves, id guess they need more food. the faint spots developing could be phosphorus deff, but again use good food, and you only have to think in terms of too much, or too little. (basically). Trial and error is best, if you were using gh id recomend 100 - 200 to start 200 to 300 ppm, after 2 weeks and maybe upto a max of 500-600 under a 400. different strains can eat way different though, fluhing at every res change is not bad thinking.

whenever i have plants that i feel are not sucking up enough water weither it be too much, too little food, too much heat are too low humidity, i spray them at night w/ water. they seem to dig it.

id recomemd liquid food at least while you establish, it is well dissolved, and you dont have to worry about big chunks of un dissolved crap laying about.

~~~~~~~~~hey im back today just remembered you ordered maxi gro, ignore my food comment, i used Peters when i started, it worked. dry food should work. I dont know if it helped but i used to load up my old coffee filter with the food and brew it up. my thinking was that it would dissolve it properly. I even used a hand blender in the res.I really dont know if this helped. i have a worry that my blabing could lead too, overspending. setting up can nickle and dime one to death.


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## mojomon (Jul 26, 2005)

Hey Mario:
Thanks dude for the info.  I just received my maxigro a little while ago.  My plants have been flushing on pH balanced water for over 24 hours, and I thought I would let them go until tomorrow (will be roughly 48 hours @ that point), as I will be installing my IceProbe chiller in the res.  They seem to be holding their own @ this point, so I hope all will be well.  I just want to start fresh with new food, chilled water and a new attitude...
What do you think?


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## bizzy323 (Jul 26, 2005)

Sounds good, I would say don't rush on the nuts give it couple of more days before you put it in your system.


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## mariofromontario (Jul 27, 2005)

FROM THE LOOK OF YOUR SET UP THINK YOURE ATTITUDE IS GOOD. well ive proved myself a blabber and so i continue.......... I think bizzy and guru might be closer to youre problem than i am, cocerning the nuts. i finally read all the posts about youre set up. here is a pic of what my revised opinion is of youre plants. or what i think may be hapening. hopfully guru and bizzy can yea or nea. the write up in the book for this picture says: over fertilized with nitrogen and other nutrients. Leaves curl uder because sodium level is rather low.~ thats it! (?)

so if this is the case.... and this is a guesse, they cant eat, its nutrient lock out, not quite burn( like it may have been in week 1) not salt build up,if this is the right diagnosis, what they really need is a lower strenth food. another reson i think this may be the case is because of the lights were high for a while. it is good to keeps lights way off tender sedlings, but light way up means little food. So they are hungry but are so becuse they cant eat. too much food. i dont agree with the long leaches or straying from food for too long. this works in soil only because soil its self holds on too food very well,. youre mediums do not. there should always be food in the res. except for very brief periods. Uh p.s. your plants are nowhere near this bad, obviously, if this is youre prob, then it is the very early stages of it. peace.
Mario.


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## mojomon (Jul 27, 2005)

Thanks--
Woke upthis morning and the plants looked terrible.  The spots are spreading and the plants look like they are taking a turn for the worse.  Went right ahead and changed out my res and mixed in some maxigro (a little less than label directed), pH balanced and prayed...
I think I may have killed em', but I suppose time will tell.  All plants now seem to have some kind of spots that look either like nutrient burn or deficiency.  I think those crap nutes that came with my set up were the main cause (not to mention me dosing them to early).  Well, I have more seeds, and if this crop doesn't make it all I can do is try again, learn from the experience.
In any case, thanks to all you folks who have been helping--more to come...


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## bizzy323 (Jul 27, 2005)

mojo do you have pictures? I have grown hydro before, i didn't put any nuts in my system for straight 3 weeks. Also did you start running your system since sprout? (the pump)


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## mojomon (Jul 27, 2005)

Biz:
Here are some pics I took just a few moments ago. They don't look too good, but new leaf growth seems unaffected. They looked like they were starving after about 36 hours of fresh water flushing, so I went ahead and put some nutes in when I changed it out this morning. I don't know what I should do now, think I will just leave things as they are and hope for the best. My water temp is running around 80 degrees, so I will be installing a mini aquarium chiller in my 5 gal res today.
Oh well, good thing I bought a lot of seeds...
Thanks,
Jeff


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## bizzy323 (Jul 27, 2005)

just give it some time see what happens, they don't look that bad.


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## mariofromontario (Jul 28, 2005)

~well confused yet? Trial and error my friend, the new pics help.I think the downward curl fooled me, or not, who knows for sure. but from these pics id bet my life they want food. they will do much better on the maxi grow i would bet. The spots developing from what can see is a diff of P. the paleness is N, and the redness of the stems is another sign of P diffecientcy. once they recover ditch the affected leaves, decaying dying leaves invite fungus, and molds. ( dont stress about this, but I think a couple leaves are developing minor fungal problems.) a heathy plant should have no problem fending of the type of fungus i think it is. On the bright side your node spacing looks very good, once you figure out the right food strengh you should do very well for youself. You will like the chiller, so will they. im gonna stop commenting on this issue of food probs., as i can only really guesse from over here., just think in terms of too much or too little. youre roots are fairly safe, untill they start running along the trays, when this happens, and if you want, ill tell you whatt i know about ajusting water flow.


ill look through my pics and ill find the best examples of generic over feeding and common underfeeding 

take care
 Mojoman

mario.


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## mojomon (Jul 28, 2005)

I guess you could say I was a little confused...
The affected leaves look even worse now than they did yesterday---I'll be amazed if these things survive at all.  So, when you say ditch the dying leaves, what'sthe best way to do that.  One or two of them have already started to break off as they seem dried out and yellow.  Should I cut them off using a blade such as in cloning?


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## bizzy323 (Jul 28, 2005)

no don't cut them off, leafs are there for a reason. Do you  have new pictures of them?


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## mojomon (Jul 28, 2005)

Dude, I think Mario was right---I think it's a fungus amongus. I was looking in one of the pots and I noticed the surface od the rockwool and the growrocks around it had a white powdery substance clinging to it, and when I lifted the pot out of the tray it seemed to be clogged with a light brown muck clinging to the bottom. Seems like the roots can't get through cause the bottom is clogged. On the other pots where the roots are through, the muck is clinging to them.
Check out these pics I took a little while ago. On one of the larger plants, I went ahead and cut the dead leaves at the stem/node, they were breaking off and basically rotten. Hope that doesn't do them in, although maybe it's a done deal anyhow. I had a small sample tube of bio-fungicide treatment and I went ahead and put that in my res, but soemthing tells me it willbe like throwinh a thimble of water on a house fire. Oh, the humanity...


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## bizzy323 (Jul 28, 2005)

I think it's Magnesium (Mg) deficiency and nut burn and for the fungus, I had the same problem before but i noticed it too late.


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## mojomon (Jul 28, 2005)

So should I bag this crop and start over?  I don't want to keep running up my electric bill if it's a losing battle--


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## mariofromontario (Jul 29, 2005)

hmm I dont know,starting over..... your call.if you can fix this problem, you will learn a whole lot. im gonna stop guessing... im confusing myself, you being new at the game probably are getting frustrated. heres some things you can try if they make sense to you. youre trays are washable, your pots removeable, when you leach you could wipe the trays, and swish the whole pot, stone plant and all in a fesh bucket of water. Tepid water and wetting agent will disolve any extra salt away fairly quickly. change the res and plunk the babies back in. This may save time. i have never done this, but i top feed.

a very mild bleach solution ( sounds scary eh?) is a great way to sanitize your empty system.

AS a rule of thumb: under feeding can look similar to over feeding, but underfeeding usually does not have brown tips, or any curls in the leaves, unless the leaf is on its last leg. over feeding usually starts out with lush growth, then progresses to unusually dark dull leaves, then burnt tips and weird lockout problems. (this is my personal observation)

Please use hydrogen peroxide. (lol) not any bio products,( i probably woulda thown it in too miind you, i like free) 

most bio aditives, need a week or two to establish, this is better done
in an empty system, as the food provided for them to colinize also feeds the nastie ones.this is advanced growing. some of the products like zyme, hygrozymee, and guardian angel, boast of miracle results, they are the enzymes of tbe good bateria. bascically a huge vat of bacteria shit and piss. This waste is a good obsticle for bad stuff. It is insanely over priced. and  usually,unnessisary., some people use these products before they start to breeding good bactera, to sorta pave the way. In the future this side of growing may be a help to you. for now perhaps, just try to kill all organisims fungi and molds.
 ,
the hospital type aproach, keep youre res sterile. take care Mr. Mojo


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## mojomon (Jul 29, 2005)

Thanks Mario.  The plants are still alive, and new leaf growth is there, but I just don't know at this point.  I mean, they look like they are still growing, so I guess I will just keep up the "wait and see" vigil.  I was actually wondering if I could try to wash things out, and was going to ask you that next, so thanks for the suggestion.
So I will need to use the hydrogen peroxide, and I should use the 35% strength, right?  Any recommendations on leaching products?  I have to order all my supplies online as I am way more than a stone's throw away from my nearest friendly neighborhood hydro store.
Really appreciate all your help, and who knows, maybe these things might actually make it---
Mojo


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## mariofromontario (Jul 29, 2005)

yup sir, 35% somtimes called food grade, this is diluted to about 1%, the instructions will help. I actually tasted my res to see if there was any left in the water. I think i settled on adding it twice a week. I dont know what leaching agents are, most peeps i talk with think they are chemicals with a high negative charge. (the major nurients NPK and some minor ones, have a positive charge, so introducing a negitive charge makes them stick together and become large enough to wash away easy.) A book i have says they are calcium peroxide. ClearX was the best seller at our store. but as they never list ingredients, it seems a toss of the dice. 

Wetting agent is a pure detergent, a soap molecule, has a big meat hook at the end of its chain. this digs in to other molecules well, and breaks them up. Adding as little as one drop to youre res will lessen the surface tension of the water, making it harder for anything nastie to put its feet down. it also keeps the water flowing a bit better. 
I have had the same bottle of Agri 2 weting agent for about 6 years. a little goes a long way. I only use 1 drop per 40 gal res. I recomend this crap. (cheap) 

I feel like a bastard but here are my food recomendations:

generall hydro 3 part, not the best, but good enough, Resonable price,consistant quality.
DNF i had resonable results with this food, it is quite diluted you need to use alot of it, but you res is small and its weakness may be an advantage. dnf= dutch nurient formula
it is resonably priced to.

I achieved better results when i switched to liquid foods, from powdered ones.

i would not be surprised at all if they make it. and finally enter rapid growth,
TRy using a larger resivoir, and get a ppm pen, these type of mechanical/ technical improvements usually help more then miracle snake oils. 

I have no hands on expeirience with an NFT system, but a simple ball valve just after the pump will alow you to adjust the flow, to a point were the roots get water but are not drowning in it. Stagnent water and high temp nurient solution/ root zone, are the usuall causes of rot. you may even want to consider a wet dry cycle, putting a timmer on the pump. 

~ Hydroponic system are the perfect enviroment for many things to grow, soon im sure, you will have only want you want to grow growing. And finding the right food strength always takes time, dont get frustrated, just watch em and learn friend.

I have heard leaching products work, from many people, and from guys who really know their shit. but i have no expeirience w/ them. Take care.
Mario.


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## mariofromontario (Jul 29, 2005)

this was the best book i ever read, on this suject anyway,  Secrets of high yeild plant growth. written by Graham Reinders there is a link on the book, i dont know if it works.

www.growsupergardens.com


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## mojomon (Jul 29, 2005)

Thanks Mario, you always offer such optimistic (and valuable) suggestions, and it is much appreciated my friend.  YOU DA MAN.  

The plants are actually looking okay at the moment, as I said the new growth seems to be moving along.  I'm trying to put it into perspective, as it has been less than three weeks since these babies sprouted from the rockwool, and I suppose as a first grow I could have done a lot worse (and perhaps a little better...).  I was actually thinking not all of the six seeds I planted would sprout, much less survive this long, I figured I'd be lucky to get 3 or 4.  If even just 2 of these make it to flower and turn out to be female, then I will see it as a success and one hell of a valuable learning experience.  

I contacted the hydro store where I bought my MaxiGro, and they have hydrogen peroxide 35%, so I will be placing that order asap.  The guy at the store also said that the "muck" I was seeing on the bottom of the pots and clinging to the roots was probably normal, and constituted the "film" portion of the term "Nutrient Film Technique".  Needeless to say I breathed a sigh of relief and thanked the cana-Gods for that one.  He also suggested going from 24/0 on my light to 18/6, if for no other reason than because my room gets so damn hot.  He said by having the lights off during the hottest part of the day (noon to 6pm), it would not only allow the room to cool down, but give the plants an opportunity to take in more oxygen.  

I have installed an IceProbe thermoelectric aquarium chiller designed to cool aquariums up to 20gal, but it seems to be taking a while to cool the water down.  The manual did say with large volumes of water it could take up to several days, so I guess i will give it some time.  The guy at the hydro store also suggested freezing small plastic bottles of water and placing them in the res to bring it down, rotating them out when the ice melts.  Not sure about that one, but I may end up trying it if this chiller doesn't handle the load.

I have GH Maxigro and Maxibloom food as my only nutes right now.  They are both powder form.  I started feeding with them a couple of days ago, and no signs of anything wierd as of yet.  Maxigro is for veg, a combo of the two is suggested for late veg/early bloom phase, and Maxibloom during flowering.  I'm hoping they will do the job.  I was thinking of going liquid food for my next crop and see what the difference is.
Well, I will keep you posted, and thanks as always for all your assistance brother!

Peace and soul,
Mojo


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## mariofromontario (Jul 30, 2005)

.. weird i double posted some how


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## mariofromontario (Jul 30, 2005)

Thanks, mojo. 

~ you might try insulating your res, this could be as simple as doubling up on the rubbermaid bin. or maybe one big,one small w/ sand in between the two? fishtank glass good insulent rubbermaid not. shade as well. if you were to have the res outside the room with youre cooler, you would probably keep things very cool indeed, just a bit of extra hose and apapters. Wish i knew you were on a 24 hour marathon, ahh well. Look into his comment about the film. http://members.ozemail.com.au/~accent/fivesys/fsys0009.htm (note comments and the reference to the "film" being just water w/ nutrients at a specific angle) there is good muck and bad muck. i wouldnt assume it is good. 
i read that 3 degrees is the optimal slope for an nft system, i read this in an agricultural magazine, some time ago, this may or may not be true. but i just had my memory jogged that the slope is important. your system may be perfect, but what about the floor?


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## mojomon (Jul 30, 2005)

Thanks Mario. Checked out that link and it was helpful. I have shimmed underneath one end ofthe two trays to create a slight downward slope towar dthe drains, hope fully it might make a difference. I am using an 84gph pump (adjustable flow, but has been maxed out since I started), that came with the system. I recently bought a slightly larger pump rated at around 130gph as a spare/back-up, but I'm wondering if maybe I should go to that as my main one and keep the smaller as a spare. I'd like to put the res outside the grow room, but it would be a bit difficult to accomplish (the drain is the big problem), and I'm not sure the pump has enough lift to go the distance. These are all issues I suppose I could experiment with, see what happens.
What do you think about mylar wrapped around the res? I was thinking it would at least reflect some of the light and heat, I don't know.
You had mentione that you weren't aware I was on 24/0 light cycle.  Should I have been on 18/6 all along?  I know there are always 2 schools of thought on that.
Mojo


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## mariofromontario (Jul 30, 2005)

Id go for the big pump , pumps are a large sourse of heat,
if you were to buy a Magdrive, 250, or 350, you can actually have youre pump outside the water.This way,less water is heated by the pump. A mag drive has all the threaded ends needed for standard P.v.C type couplers. all you will need is hose, and hose apapters
Mylar would work,.Probably even help on the drain and supply lines. 
Better than mylar would be pipe insulation, there are standard sizes available. I think you have 1". 
For the res, hmm, id probably double up the bins, and wrap it with ducting insulation. In the second or outter bin, drill some drain holes, so condensation can collect at the bottom, and drain.Use the lid as a water catcher.( alota work eh?)
If water sits and stagnates between the res and the insulation, molds and fungi move in.

( still would benifit from being outside the room, as your home is airconditioned, and you can adjust food while they sleep without disturbing t) but if thats not practicle, it simply isnt. stupid drain! 


~ here is a few shots of my res, the coil at the bottom actually has cold, well water pumped through it and then back into the ground. One example of a working res............ all the rust colored crap is just little chunks of hydroton. 

this just to let you know of what one guy did.,. the other pic is an old pump i had jimmyrigged in a similar fashion to what i described earlier..

as for light cycle, i just do my best to copy nature. ZZZzzzzzzzz. ~


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## mojomon (Jul 30, 2005)

Cool ideas, Mario, I will research the logistics and let you know what I am able to accomplish. Great pics. Your system looks a great deal more hight tech than mine! Here are some pics taken only moments ago...
How do they look for just shy of 3 weeks? (not to mention the long, strange trip I've taken them on...)
Lower leaves still look nasty, but new stuff seems okay. They seem to like the 18/6 cycle so far. 
Adios,
Mojo


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## mariofromontario (Jul 31, 2005)

lol that be a joint! they look like lovely stout babies to me. plz keep me posted. 

Here are some more shots of my setup, not really all that high tech just rubbermaid bins,(and 2 years of trial and error). my little ones are not ready to go in yet, ill show you them later. i only do maybee 3 indoor crops a year, as work gets in the way. here are more pics, note the barell filter, this ensures your lines stay clear of debris, the filter lasts forever and cost about 20 bucks.
Peace
Mario.


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