# Yellowing leaves...



## Carlo

Hello All,

My brother is growing a feminized orange bud plant and she was doing pretty well until yesterday. 

He transplanted the plant after 10 days because the roots were coming out of the bottom of his pot/cup. However, 2 days later her 2 bottom main leaves are turning yellow.

From the leaf deficiency chart, I guesstimating that the yellowing is because a lack of nitrogen. Did the transplant have anything to do with the yellowing? Only the bottom 2 leaves are turning yellow and hoping to stop the yellowing before it gets worse. 

I have fox farms nutrients and I've offered him the grow nutrient. He was hoping to wait until after 14 days to begin with nutrients. 

As I stated earlier, she has been growing very strong & fast, but now this problem has begun. 

What do you guys think about the cause of yellowing of the 2 bottom leaves? What should he do to attempt to fix the problem? Would the  fox-farms grow help resolve the problem?


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## slowmo77

whats his ph?


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## Carlo

That's a good question. I'll need to ask him. I know that he used bottled water and hasn't added any kind of nutrients or supplements.

I'm still researching a good ph meter. Kel Instruments has one for about $110 plus shipping but it seems pretty good.


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## OGKushman

bottled water is ~7.0 ph

that is too high and contains no nutes.


My hanna ph meter was like 20$?


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## dman1234

if your plants only 14 days old and hasnt been fed i doubt its ph, jmo

probably time to give her some food.


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## Carlo

Thanks guys. Therefore, if ph is high, because bottled water is 7.0, then even if he added nitrogen, the roots would not adequately absorb the nutrients? is this correct?

Doesn't hanna ph meter require it to be calibrated and calibration solution must also be bought? That being said, i trust your judgment. I'll quickly look into it.

I have ph down, but i don't want to use it without checking the ph balance with a meter.

Does having a high ph cause yellow leaves?


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## slowmo77

dman1234 said:
			
		

> if your plants only 14 days old and hasnt been fed i doubt its ph, jmo
> 
> probably time to give her some food.


 

i would have already fed it if it were mine but i start feeding earlier than most.


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## dman1234

slowmo77 said:
			
		

> i would have already fed it if it were mine but i start feeding earlier than most.


 
LOL, i would have too. 4th or 5th day usually.


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## OGKushman

Carlo said:
			
		

> Thanks guys. Therefore, if ph is high, because bottled water is 7.0, then even if he added nitrogen, the roots would not adequately absorb the nutrients? is this correct?
> 
> Doesn't hanna ph meter require it to be calibrated and calibration solution must also be bought? That being said, i trust your judgment. I'll quickly look into it.
> 
> I have ph down, but i don't want to use it without checking the ph balance with a meter.
> 
> Does having a high ph cause yellow leaves?


correct. 

all meters need calibration once in a while. They come calibrated.

i would go to homedepot and get pH tester
for a pool or something. Make ur pH right asap.

Yes high pH Will cause lockout and yellow leaves.


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## StoneyBud

Carlo said:
			
		

> Thanks guys. Therefore, if ph is high, because bottled water is 7.0, then even if he added nitrogen, the roots would not adequately absorb the nutrients? is this correct?
> 
> Doesn't hanna ph meter require it to be calibrated and calibration solution must also be bought? That being said, i trust your judgment. I'll quickly look into it.
> 
> I have ph down, but i don't want to use it without checking the ph balance with a meter.
> 
> Does having a high ph cause yellow leaves?


 
Yes, you need a calibration solution. 

You didn't say what type of media the plant was moved into. It sounds like a combination of pH lockout maybe and nutrient deprivation.

Getting that pH under control should be your primary consideration and then feeding the plant. The yellow leaves are probably from lack of nutrients.


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## StoneyBud

OGKushman said:
			
		

> correct.


 
Ha! You and I made almost exactly the same post. I was typing mine while you posted yours. Pretty cool!


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## OGKushman

StoneyBud said:
			
		

> Ha! You and I made almost exactly the same post. I was typing mine while you posted yours. Pretty cool!


 
great minds think alike


brb need a mornin toke. :48:


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## Carlo

He transplanted into a 5-gallon pot. I'm unsure as to the soil that he used. He placed that large 10,000 lumen CFL hanging right over it...However, suddenly his room is somewhat warmer.

I thought that seedlings should not be fed until at least 2-weeks after sprouting? Maybe that's another problem that I'm having with my girls, is that i haven't fed them yet, but they are only 5 days old. I was also planning on waiting until the 14-day period.


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## dman1234

its not every plant that can be fed that early, but some definetly can, you have to experiment with some to see what they can handle, but at 14 days with yellowing leaves its prob time to feed, your problem might not have been ph yet but it will be, without a meter.


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## OGKushman

:yeahthat:

If you really want to get good at a strain you need to clone a seed into a mom and start cloning her. Then just mess around with different pHs and diff nute styles and see how the clones react. Its the only way to dial in a strain/grow.


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## WorkingMan

I agree with OG.  However, it is called "weed" for a reason.  You can get really "superior" at growing with experience but it is not hard to be "good"at it.  It seems that many beginners really overthink the process.  I have found that it is hard to screw up when using organic nutes and good to great light.  In my experience transplanting always stresses the plants for a bit.  I have tried to change my technique to minimize transplanting.  I use to do the seed in the wet paper towel in the baggie technique but have found that just placing the seed in dirt works as well or better.  I transplant one time after the germination stage.  In the transplant pot I put a niced layer of organically amended soil in the bottom half and regular soil in the top half.  This gives the transplanted plant some time to adjust to the transplant and then it finds the food.

I am sure that you can make it more complicated with experience and get more productive results but with basically simple technique I grow more than I can smoke generally.  I am at the point now where the growing is as rewarding as the smoking


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## Gixxerman420

WorkingMan said:
			
		

> I agree with OG.  However, it is called "weed" for a reason.  You can get really "superior" at growing with experience but it is not hard to be "good"at it.  It seems that many beginners really overthink the process.  I have found that it is hard to screw up when using organic nutes and good to great light.  In my experience transplanting always stresses the plants for a bit.  I have tried to change my technique to minimize transplanting.  I use to do the seed in the wet paper towel in the baggie technique but have found that just placing the seed in dirt works as well or better.  I transplant one time after the germination stage.  In the transplant pot I put a niced layer of organically amended soil in the bottom half and regular soil in the top half.  This gives the transplanted plant some time to adjust to the transplant and then it finds the food.
> 
> I am sure that you can make it more complicated with experience and get more productive results but with basically simple technique I grow more than I can smoke generally.  I am at the point now where the growing is as rewarding as the smoking


No pics of grows past? I like the process better than smoking it! It's a close race, but growing wins out hands down! Just noticed that you started in March, have no threads started (no grow journal or issues posted;just chime ins on other's threads) got any photographic evidence to speak for you?


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## StoneyBud

WorkingMan said:
			
		

> I agree with OG. However, it is called "weed" for a reason. You can get really "superior" at growing with experience but it is not hard to be "good"at it. It seems that many beginners really overthink the process. I have found that it is hard to screw up when using organic nutes and good to great light. In my experience transplanting always stresses the plants for a bit. I have tried to change my technique to minimize transplanting. I use to do the seed in the wet paper towel in the baggie technique but have found that just placing the seed in dirt works as well or better. I transplant one time after the germination stage. In the transplant pot I put a niced layer of organically amended soil in the bottom half and regular soil in the top half. This gives the transplanted plant some time to adjust to the transplant and then it finds the food.
> 
> I am sure that you can make it more complicated with experience and get more productive results but with basically simple technique I grow more than I can smoke generally. I am at the point now where the growing is as rewarding as the smoking


 
Welcome to MP, WorkingMan. 

Sometimes people can't see the forest for the trees. On one hand, you make growing MJ sound like it's the simplest thing in the world, but then in the same description of effort, you mention the same skills and knowledge that must be learned to grow successfully.

In order of appearance in your post:

1. Experience

2. Knowing which Organic nutrients to buy, where to buy them and how to use them.

3. Transplanting technique

4. Plant stresses

5. Two methods of seed germination

6. Soil amendment technique


While experienced growers like yourself have *learned* each of these areas of knowledge, many people who wish to grow, know nothing of them and have no experience in growing anything. Even the words you're using are totally unfamiliar to them and they would have to research what you've just said to even understand what you said.

No, I'm sorry, but it's not "just a weed" any longer and growing it with maxed out resin production and THC content, harvesting it properly and curing it so as to provide the best and most long lasting product is most certainly NOT a "simple technique".

It's not a matter of "making it more complicated with experience", but truly more complicated than you make it sound. Here on this site, I've seen literally hundreds of people attempt to grow the herb and fail miserably as a result of not knowing or not understanding how to grow it.

I'm sure that a neurological surgeon thinks his/her job is also easy after doing it for many successful operations. They probably even make it look easy.

Like I said, welcome to the group, but trying to make it sound easy and then mentioning six different requirements or skills necessary to grow it is contradictory and (I'm sure unintentional) deceiving in fact.



.


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## Mutt

yellowing leaves in your situation...I would look at.
1. transplant shock. Questions would be was the medium dry or moist when you did the transplant. excessively dry will cause roots to snap get cut or damaged. always transplant semi moist medium.
2. Bad PH in the new medium. I always add some lime to my medium which buffers the PH to around 7.0. Some here say thats too high, but I have never noticed bad growth at 7.0. Many times soil is too acidic. Too much peat or pine bark or something. 

The tough call is which of the two is it. I would not feed. Not this early into the game. that will just make it harder to determine the problem. 14 days old should not be this hungry yet.

Of course water quality is of utmost importance, but if its the same water that was used as a seedling, it should be a non-issue.

yes it is just a weed, but like any other weed if the environment isn't healthy it won't grow.


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## woodydude

While I respect Mutt, I agree the problem of yellowing could be ph or transplant shock, my money is on the babies asking for food.

I recently started a gj on the free seeds from Attitude and after 7 days, they all looked like they would die, yellowed leaves on and all. All they had had was ph'd water. I transplanted them into a small bubbler with a 15% nute solution and I got some life back into them, so much that a week on, I think they will all make it. 
6 seeds, 5 varieties including a random bubblegum I threw in with them. They yellowing I had appeared after the second full pair of leaves 7 days from sprouting.
I have heard of no feed for 3 weeks and feeding from 1st day of sprouting. For me, I will start feeding seedlings at 7 days @ 15% and see how it goes. I accept we all have different experiences of the various techniques needed to grow and while some peoples methods work for them, they may not necesarily work for others.
This, as ever, imo.
Green mojo Carlo and a fat juicy bone for Mutt for disagreeing with him.
Peace W


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## Mutt

Carlo said:
			
		

> However, 2 days later her 2 bottom main leaves are turning yellow.



This is the reason I suspect xplant shock or PH. They will turn leaves quicker then medium depletion of food. This happens slower. There would be "N" available in the new medium that would slow the yellowing from manifesting. Otherwise I would normally agree with the need for food. This shows the characteristics of shock and/or lockout IME. both show fast. starvation by means of medium nutrient depletion manifests slower (even slower that it was transplanted into new soil). Except in Hydro everything happens fast LOL.


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## Carlo

As you all know, i don't know much growing, but I'm also suspecting possible transplant shock. If i'm not mistaken, it was transplanted when dry and roots were already coming out of the bottom of his cup/pot. Maybe he hurt a few of the roots when pulling the plant out.

Also, new soil was used and it should have enough ingredients to feed the plant for the 1st few days.

However, the plant was growing at an excessive rate, maybe it simply was hungry due to fast growth.

Anyhow, my brother decided to feed it FF grow. He did only use 1/2 of the recommended dosage, which I though was smart to do.

I'll let you guys know later how the plant looks. Hopefully its growing healthy again...I really would like to taste some orange bud!

I am surprised as to how much focus, time, energy is spent on these plants. Almost like a new child was added to the family...lol.

In this case, my plants grow elsewhere other than I live, so I guess that's how a parent who is separated from his child feels...always worrying about their health...who knew? lol...

On a side note, should plants be grown in 5-gallon or 3-gallon pots? The 5-gallon pot the plant is in looks huge for the plant.    

Once again, any insight would be appreciated.


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## Roddy

Size of pot is a choice, I use 10gal pots myself. Some say this is overkill, you can grow big plants in even a 1gal pot...cool! I like the way this works for me, the plants seem to appreciate it as well....I plant in smaller pots for veg, then transplant into big pot before budding. IMHO, this gives the plant fresh soil meaning more of the goodness the babe likes and cuts back on nute issues, it also gives the roots room to spread out more which IMHO lets the plant grow out bigger.


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## StoneyBud

Carlo said:
			
		

> On a side note, should plants be grown in 5-gallon or 3-gallon pots? The 5-gallon pot the plant is in looks huge for the plant.


 
The container size depends on your method of growing. If you're using hydroponics, then the pot size can be much smaller than with conventional soil growing. If you're growing in soil, but using additional nutrients and amendments, then again, your container size can be reduced.

If growing in just soil, then the standard that is accepted among many growers is one gallon of pot size for every foot in height of the plant within it.

The plant's environmental conditions are also a consideration in pot size. In areas with strong winds or fans, course, heavy media is sometimes used to provide additional support for the roots to attach to and weight to stabilize the container.

These larger pieces aren't providing any nutrient value, so additional volume of the container would be used in proportion to the volume of heavy media used, so as to provide equal soil for the plant as compared to a container without the heavy media.


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## guerillaweedfare

Carlo what ever you do don't waste your money buying a ph meter at homecheapo  or lowes...they are usless and won't give you the accuracy you need to check your ph. 

I've had plenty of problems with my ph and the best investment I have made is a digital ph meter that I bought on ebay for around $20 like OG said before. My Milwaukee 600 has done me well so far...i would just recommend buying an extra packet of ph buffer solution to calibrate your meter later on if needed.


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## StoneyBud

guerillaweedfare said:
			
		

> Carlo what ever you do don't waste your money buying a ph meter at homecheapo or lowes...they are usless and won't give you the accuracy you need to check your ph.
> 
> I've had plenty of problems with my ph and the best investment I have made is a digital ph meter that I bought on ebay for around $20 like OG said before. My Milwaukee 600 has done me well so far...i would just recommend buying an extra packet of ph buffer solution to calibrate your meter later on if needed.


 
I own the Milwaukee 600 also. I cal it every use. It's always right on. I had to adjust it a couple times right after I bought it, but not in the last year or so. I'm very happy with it.


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