# LED advice, pics etc...



## notthecops (Feb 3, 2020)

Ok, so in an effort to learn more about LED’s I’d be interested to see what everyone’s advice and experience is.

I have a 6 X 6 X 6 tent, currently running two 1000 watt lights. As the tent is in a large temperature controlled room with outdoor exhaust and indoor ventilation, heat is not a concern.

I’m a believer in spending what needs to be spent to get the most out of my space, so I’m not too concerned with initial cost (within reason).

What would you recommend and why?  What are the best spectrum/colours to get? What do your LED’s look like?

I’m starting with zero knowledge on LED technology, but several decades of growing experience.

Thanks,
NTC


----------



## umbra (Feb 3, 2020)

I have a 4 x 8 tent that I replaced 2 1000w HPS with a spydr+ LED from Fluence. Not cheap, but a real replacement for 2 1000w lights.
https://shop.fluence.science/product-category/spydr-series/


----------



## notthecops (Feb 3, 2020)

umbra said:


> I have a 4 x 8 tent that I replaced 2 1000w HPS with a spydr+ LED from Fluence. Not cheap, but a real replacement for 2 1000w lights.
> https://shop.fluence.science/product-category/spydr-series/



Do you run Co2 also? According to the description of this light, It would be needed.


----------



## umbra (Feb 3, 2020)

yes


----------



## umbra (Feb 3, 2020)




----------



## Lesso (Feb 4, 2020)

Pay attention to the components of your led. Samsung diodes or what some call quantum boards are considered top shelf. Meanwell drivers are recommended by most led pros. I prefer full spectrum to blurple, from what i can see, so do my plants. You could also run 2 hlg 550 r-spec in a 6x6. I went with the spiderfarmer over hlg for cost savings. Im in a 5x5 so i added a couple of mars sp250s to cover the corners.


----------



## stinkyattic (Feb 4, 2020)

In umbra's first pic, pay attention to the plant arrangement for canopy management. Notice it's a 'stadium' configuration. Around the edges where light intensity starts to weaken, the tallest plants are placed so they are closer to the light, while the shortest ones are in the highest intensity zone. I do the same thing. This is a great concept to file away in your brain : ) 
Its also a bit easier to manage with LED than HID,  because in my experience, reflector hoods sometimes throw random unexpected hot spots around the perimeter and the taller edge plants crawl up into it like a moth to a bug zapper when your back is turned lol. I have some plants in the garden that are proof... yup still running one hid each in veg and bloom, alongside 6 led fixtures ranging from a cheap shop light for newly rooted clones, to twin sf2000 for flowers, and it is never a problem under my LED s. 
I also juice with co2 from a tank, but my reasons for that are beyond the scope of this thread and I would be using it regardless of light source.


----------



## darrell1NP (Feb 6, 2020)

umbra, looks great.


----------



## QBCrocket (Feb 8, 2020)

stinkyattic said:


> In umbra's first pic, pay attention to the plant arrangement for canopy management. Notice it's a 'stadium' configuration. Around the edges where light intensity starts to weaken, the tallest plants are placed so they are closer to the light, while the shortest ones are in the highest intensity zone. I do the same thing. This is a great concept to file away in your brain : )
> Its also a bit easier to manage with LED than HID,  because in my experience, reflector hoods sometimes throw random unexpected hot spots around the perimeter and the taller edge plants crawl up into it like a moth to a bug zapper when your back is turned lol. I have some plants in the garden that are proof... yup still running one hid each in veg and bloom, alongside 6 led fixtures ranging from a cheap shop light for newly rooted clones, to twin sf2000 for flowers, and it is never a problem under my LED s.
> I also juice with co2 from a tank, but my reasons for that are beyond the scope of this thread and I would be using it regardless of light source.


maybe a thread on CO2 usage and techniques would be good I would like to know more


----------



## thegloman (Feb 8, 2020)

I've been mixing in gallon jugs since my girlz were small but now its time to start mixing in a bucket.  
I use large syringes also with clear vinal tubing to extend its reach.
Umbra
I learn more from you every time.  Thx!
SA
Please, I also would like to know more on the CO2.
Maybe if you have time you could post a thread with the who, what, where and why.
  We learners are Very fortunate to have experienced and learned
Growers willing to share.  Thx!


----------



## umbra (Feb 17, 2020)

It takes a little more than just adding CO2. You need to open the stoma to get CO2 into plant. VDP is how to do it.
https://cannafo.com/article/vpd-for-cannabis-cultivation. 
I cheat and force the stoma open with low frequency sound waves. Cutting edge Agro science, Biowave.

Biowave Mini Subsonic Harmonic emitters generate subsonic harmonic waves that reverberate with frequencies of plant and makes the leaves pores to widen helping in nutrients absorption. This helps to increase the average yield by 20%. Increased respiration/transpiration results in greater yields. On the whole, Biowave mini subsonic harmonic emitter is a modern sonic development induction system using an exclusive frequency methodology that is technically manifested in lab environment. The building block of this subsonic harmonic emitter is two stainless steel cages that rotate in opposite directions producing subsonic harmonic waves that make the plant to breathe better. Because its made of stainless steel, this emitter is highly durable and corrosion resistive. It does not have any harmful impact on humans - it only influences plants. All the materials and equipment used in this subsonic harmonic emitter is weatherproof. Also, since it works on plug and play mechanism, it is very easy to operate. The Biowave Mini Subsonic Harmonic Emitter is sturdy, efficient, powerful, and also confronts harmful insects.Features and Benefits It helps plants with better respiration/transpiration by stimulating the opening of stomataIt increases the percentage of solids present in the juice (brix level) of a plant and enhances the quality of yield.It is perfect for discrete rooms and tiny plots.Helps repel and prevent harmful insect attacks.This subsonic harmonic emitter is made of stainless steelIt will not impact light or any other electrical apparatus.Works on the basis of Plug and Play mechanism and covers around 500 square ft. area.You only need a damp cloth and hand soap for cleaning.It is durable and corrosion resistant.SpecificationsWeight: 8.2 kgsDimensions: 23 x 12 x 12 inVolts: 110-240 VWatts: 20-30 watts


----------



## stinkyattic (Feb 17, 2020)

I'm just juicing because my flower room is run sealed out of necessity in our brutally cold Massachusetts winters. Either I run a small electric radiator and a tank to return ambient co2 concentrations to at or above atmospheric normal, or I blast all my expensive warm air out the duct. And pay for it... opening the electric bill is analogous to the karmic retribution from bad tacos on may 6th. Option 3 (sealed, no juice) is warm but dead plants. I aim for 1200-1500ppm which is crop enhancing enrichment,  but anything consistently over 400 is necessary to basic survival. My grow shop guy notes that anything above 900 is in a zone that he would consider adequately enriched to start seeing improvement over ambient.
I got a toy...


----------



## QBCrocket (Feb 20, 2020)

Umbra , you just made my head explode  very interesting stuff , SA  how do you control the amount of co2 you put into the room


----------



## stinkyattic (Feb 20, 2020)

There's a flow meter , flow adjust valve, and normally -closed solenoid attached to the tank regulator. And the whole thing is on a timer plugged into another timer.  Activates solenoid 15 minutes per hour during 'day ' only. I just twiddle with the the flow rate and check with co2 detector til my readings are satisfactory.


----------

