# New growth quite yellow, 1 month old plant



## next (Jan 15, 2015)

Hey guys, hoping someone can point me in the right direction. 

Using 75% Pro-mix HP, with 15% pro-mix organic, and 10% EWC., and some extra miracle grow perlite that contained small amounts of nutes I was unaware of.

Also have full earth juice lineup.

I haven't fed the plants any nutes, other than Myco Madness (some mycorzia sumthin sumthin) and a small amount of xatalyst, basicly used as ph down. 3 days ago I mixed up a batch of earth juice now im noticing explosive growth, but some appears very yellow. This specific plant is an Autoflower Ak 47, the other plants seem to be alright.

I mixed up 10L stale tap water, 10L RO water, put in large tupperware with circulating pump, and air stones, then added 10ml Microblast, 30ml Grow, and 20ml Xatalyst, also threw in a handful of EWC. 

Ph was at 4.2, slowly raised over the course of 40hrs the Ph rose to 7. I then added another splash of Xatalyst to get the Ph down to 6.5 and I watered my plants. This is my 2nd grow using these nutes, first grow went "ok" there were trials for sure, I had extreme yellowing possibly from using molasses with sulpher in it, so thats a no no.

Im using two 288watt LED grow lights, they were fairly close about 10inches from the plant, I raised them a little bit just in case. Temps are good between 75-78, humidity is at 40% - 45%

Thanks guys, goodluck to you all!

heres the pics 

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## next (Jan 15, 2015)

Im not 100% sure on what ph to be running at, soil-less calls for 5.8, soil is 6.5.

I used 75% promix hp, 15% promix organic, and 10% ewc.Ive been giving them ph of bout 5.9 or so.


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## zem (Jan 15, 2015)

I think that this is overkill, all these additives and stuff you're using, will not grow for you a super plant, if it would, then I guess we would also be able to grow people like superman, instead, all you can do, is provide for the plant a natural and healthy environment for its genetics to do their best. it is not just feeding, in fact the entire fertilization thing is to help the plant get its major source of energy from light itself, and most of its weight is water. when you have all these things going in your growing medium, it becomes harder to source the problem IMO. Wetdog's signature comes to mind, it's something like, if you have 20 types of ferts and 30 additives and mollasses and not a single book on plants, then there is your problem LOL It's not these exact words, but you get the meaning, I hope Wetdog doesn't mind me quoting his sig cheers


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## next (Jan 15, 2015)

All they have had is some ewc, mychorizia, and some xatalyst that feeds the microbes. Not sure about 20-30 types of additives.. 

just some worm ****

myco madness (9 mycorrhizal species, 15 beneficial bacteria and 2 trichoderma species) 

Xatalyst contains oat bran, sea kelp, wheat malt, molasses and yeast.

You say that is overkill eh?


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## pcduck (Jan 15, 2015)

Feed them


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## next (Jan 15, 2015)

pcduck said:


> Feed them



yea thats kinda what I was thinking.. hence me feeding them a low dosage on the 12th. I'm still new to the earth juice lineup but I have high hopes for this grow. Thanks pcduck, muchly appreciated.


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## 000StankDank000 (Jan 15, 2015)

Yup agree feed em


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## next (Jan 15, 2015)

I have read people giving up to 2tbl spoons per gallon of the grow, thats 30ml per gal. They will be thirsty in another day or two, and I will up the dosage, to perhaps 10-15ml per gal and see how that goes. 

Thanks guys, better not enough than too much, so atleast I have that going for me.

(You can see in the first picture, that the branch has split and now has 2 tops, same for the branch on the opposite side. that must be a good sign)

This is also the largest of the plants, so it must be eating more than the rest.


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## Rosebud (Jan 15, 2015)

I think your doing a great job, your plants look very healthy and just starting to look hungry. At this point in veg, i have topped dressed with worm castings and or guano's... I have never burned a plant by using Earth Juice either, so give the kids some food...and keep up the good work.


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## next (Jan 15, 2015)

Rosebud said:


> I think your doing a great job, your plants look very healthy and just starting to look hungry. At this point in veg, i have topped dressed with worm castings and or guano's... I have never burned a plant by using Earth Juice either, so give the kids some food...and keep up the good work.



Thankyou for the kind words! Any recommendation as to how much of the grow to feed them? Does 15ml / 1 tbl spoon per gallon sound about right?


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## Rosebud (Jan 15, 2015)

Always read the label... I think that is right, what you said. It is pretty cool using worm castings too, put that in the back of your mind... I just top dressed with  some on my moms. About 5 days later they are a different color and happier.  Love how that works.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Jan 16, 2015)

Worm castings are great for you soil and you can make some great tea from them too.


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## next (Jan 16, 2015)

I do have extra room to apply the ewc as a top dressing, but I don't have the largest supply so I have been using it to make teas. Here is what I currently have brewing.

10L old tap, 10L R/o - PH(7.4)

+0.375ml/L micro blast = 15ml
+2.5ml/L Grow = 100ml
+1ml/L Bloom  = 40ml 
+1ml/L Xatalyst = 40ml 

Also added almost half a cup of ewc to the mix. I have a 40gph circulation pump, and a very large 1.34cubic feet/min air pump mixing it. I recently upgraded the circulation pump and I must say It does a very good job at mixing the nutes into the water.

The earth juice microblast is kinda slimey and never dissipated very well into the water, it stayed stuck together as little slime trails, which may be the reason I have been having issues with only some plants, perhaps some of the root zones were getting too much micro nutes? Anyways, with this pump the water was clear after 5min of adding the micro nutes, so very happy with that. PH was sitting at 3.4, but now it is up to 4.0 after 12 hrs.


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## next (Jan 16, 2015)

The Hemp Goddess said:


> Worm castings are great for you soil and you can make some great tea from them too.



I have used blackstrap molasses in the past, but I think it had too much sulfur in it, got my hands on some crosby's fancy molasses, I may use at some point. Do you know if this is the correct type?

Thanks for stoppin by!


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## superman (Jan 16, 2015)

I've used Pro-mix for years. The HP has Ph buffers in it. With my tap water I don't have to adjust the Ph at all. Try using strait tap water and check the Ph of the run off. 

The level of the water coming out is more important than what goes in. I think you'll find it's a lot lower than you think. If it's too high tinker with it, maybe, but I don't think you'll have too.

 That yellowing seems to be in the newest growth so backing the light some will probably help some with that. I hear ya with the LED, I've got 1 room with just LEDs and love um!!! You have to make yourself keep them a little higher in order to get good coverage. Especially with a single unit.

 Those plants look pretty darn good to me!! Try not to complicate the process any more than necessary. It's simpler than we think sometimes. Good luck!!!!
 Peace, Superman


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## next (Jan 16, 2015)

Looks like I had these two plants mixed up, the yellowish one in question is an Afghan Kush Ryder, here is the Auto Ak 47, so much foliage.. leaves stacked upon leaves.. 

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## next (Jan 16, 2015)

superman said:


> I've used Pro-mix for years. The HP has Ph buffers in it. With my tap water I don't have to adjust the Ph at all. Try using strait tap water and check the Ph of the run off.
> 
> The level of the water coming out is more important than what goes in. I think you'll find it's a lot lower than you think. If it's too high tinker with it, maybe, but I don't think you'll have too.
> 
> ...



Hey Superman!

What ph did you try to achieve when you used pro-mix? Led's open up alot more possibilities, but creates other qwerks that you have to deal with, like daytime and nighttime temps being so close to the same and it causes the plants to stay very short. I also had to have heat mats in the grow tent at one point to keep the temps up, worked great later on to lower the humidity during flower.

I have checked the run off and its around 6.2 or 6.3. I figure if I put in 6.5, and it comes out 6.1 that it is around the 6.3 mark inside the pot. I do believe I have read that doing it that way gives an accurate measurement. 

I think I may have a ph problem, mostly because I don't know if I should be trying for 5.8, or 6.5. I think there may be a slight zinc deficiency in the afghan kush ryder. Looks like zinc would only really be a problem in hydro/soiless, so I might try a lower ph this round. Especially considering the yellowing happened after giving the 6.5 nutes, as apposed to my regular 6.0

Thanks for stopping in.


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## next (Jan 18, 2015)

Plant wanted more than food.. what do yall think of this? 

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## MR1 (Jan 18, 2015)

I grow in soil, my ph for my run off is 7.8 to 8. I just ph for soil ( 6.5 ) and don't worry about it. Doesn't seem to bother my plants. Stick to a ph of 6 for soiless I believe. How low are your lights?
 Also , I use chemical ferts, not organic.


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## next (Jan 18, 2015)

Lights are 10-12" above canopy, there are 192 3watt led's, and my phone shows roughly 20,000 - 25,000 lux. 

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## MR1 (Jan 18, 2015)

That seems a little low, start at 2 1/2 feet and lower from there, I very rarely have my led closer than 2 feet from the top of the canopy. Other's here use the same light as you, they might be of better help with distance for your light. Is it a Mars Hydro light?


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## next (Jan 19, 2015)

Its from the same company, but the mars uses 5watt leds and no reflector, this is the - Reflector LED Grow light 96x3w.

edit - I seen Rosebud has the same lights as me.. hanging quite abit higher as well. 

I raised the lights to just over 2 feet. If they stretch they could use the extra height anyways, its hard to sneak the water in there.


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## next (Jan 19, 2015)

MR1 said:


> That seems a little low, start at 2 1/2 feet and lower from there, I very rarely have my led closer than 2 feet from the top of the canopy. Other's here use the same light as you, they might be of better help with distance for your light. Is it a Mars Hydro light?



Yes it is, just realized they changed company names and this light is advertised as a mars hydro light.


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## Rosebud (Jan 19, 2015)

Looking nice in there. I worry your lights are a bit too close...If you see bleaching of any leaves pull those lights up to at least 18 inches.


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## next (Jan 21, 2015)

Here is an update, seems as tho its not effecting the bottom of the plant for some reason, and despite the wild appearance it is still growing quite well overall. When I compare pictures side by side it looks like the plant is managing to restore the chlorophyll but new growth still coming in with yellow tips, or middle of the fingers on the leaves.

First pic is of lower portion of the plant, it seems fine.

Next up is the middle, then from the top view.

Last pic is of a Sweet Tooth Auto grown in the same conditions right next to this one.. 

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## next (Jan 21, 2015)

Just dug a hole down into the soil of the unhappy plant, and used a soil test kit. The test showed a ph of 7.0. Any suggestions? I suppose a large flush with low ph'd water would be the thing to do? 

As far as my charts go, with a neutral ph of 7.0 there should be no problems if it were a soil grow. Therefore if the plants are acting as tho it is soil-less then it must be. Kinda confirms my questions as to what ph to be trying to get. I realize pro-mi is a soilless medium but I wondered because of the organic nutes, as well as the additional ewc, if it was going to act like a soil grow.

I don't have the heart to dig into the healthy plants soil, so they will remain untouched untill they say otherwise.


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## next (Jan 22, 2015)

blah, cheap ph meter has crapped out.. :'(


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## zem (Jan 22, 2015)

next said:


> blah, cheap ph meter has crapped out.. :'(



yeah these cheapo soil ph meters never work. imo they must be banned from market, they still sell, everyone has tried them and was disappointed, but they still sell... if you were relying on that to manage your soil ph, then that's probably part of the problem, add dolomite lime to neutralize the soil ph, get a water ph tester, and feed with 6-6.5 ph


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## next (Jan 22, 2015)

The soil test was with a green pill, which I believe is accurate. It was the cheapo water ph tester that crapped out. I have dolomite lime, but I didn't add any because the pro-mix hp comes with it already added.


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## Rosebud (Jan 22, 2015)

looks like you have the bleaching...pull those lights up farther away from the plant. You are all organic right? No need to PH.


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## next (Jan 22, 2015)

Yes it is an organic grow, except for the perlite that I added.


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## next (Jan 22, 2015)

I raised the lights as high as I could we'll see what happens


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## countrystoner86 (Jan 22, 2015)

Can anyone help me please? I planted 3 seeds in the same pot and they are 11 days old and growing, is it too late to separate them or will all 3 be ok in the same pot?


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## Rosebud (Jan 22, 2015)

Depends how gentle you can be at dividing the roots.


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## next (Jan 22, 2015)

If the plants had a big enough pot, and you did some LST to keep them away from each other, I don't see why it couldn't work out for you.


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## zem (Jan 23, 2015)

countrystoner86 said:


> Can anyone help me please? I planted 3 seeds in the same pot and they are 11 days old and growing, is it too late to separate them or will all 3 be ok in the same pot?



at 11 days it will be easy, just like transplanting a single plant, be gentle and think everything ahead not to mess up


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## The Hemp Goddess (Jan 24, 2015)

It looks to be nute burn to me.  It is just on the tips of the new growth. If the nutrients in the perlite are not organic, you do not have an organic grow.  Growing organic is kind of like being pregnant--you either are or you aren't.  Chemical nutrients will kill the microbes in the soil.  If you are growing organic, pH should not be an issue.  If you are not, it is critical.  We worry less about the pH of the soil if it is close to 7, but it is not really the soil pH that is the issue, it is the pH of what you are feeding the plant and the pH of the run-off.  I am not familiar with the green pill type of pH measurement, but IME, I have found nothing to really be accurate except a quality meter that is regularly calibrated.  We do need to know the pH down to an (accurate) tenth.


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## next (Jan 24, 2015)

Thanks for the reply,

I messed up with the perlite, didn't realize it had nutes in it until it was too late. This is the only 1 out of 5 plants showing these symptoms. Other plants have some P-K def from not adding bloom nutes quick enough. The bottom third of this plant has no problems, not sure what that means..

Here is the soil test kit I used, hxxp://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1612-Rapitest-Tester/dp/B0001LEPYA


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## next (Feb 5, 2015)

Same plant, what do u guys think now? 

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## Hushpuppy (Feb 5, 2015)

They appear to be recovering some. I am inclined to think it is/was a type of nute burn as well. But the plants appear to be recovering from it. It may be that these couple plants with the issue had more pearlite than the others and they released more readily available nutes and began to burn it. I did notice in the earlier pics that the leaves looked very dark green. That is an early warning of too much nitrogen. it may be that they have used up the nutrient burst from the pearlite and are leveling back off again.


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## next (Feb 5, 2015)

I have a new ph meter, ec meter, and some cal/mag. was thinking about going to straight ro water and supplementing with cal/mag.

This is the 2nd time I have had "random" problems with a few plants, I know something has to change im just not sure what. I will definitely be more cautious about what perlite I buy, also I haven't used any rock dust before but I must admit that azomite sounds very interesting. So next round will include some azomite, natural perlite, and straight RO water with additional cal/mag.

**The interveinal chlorosis looks like a mag defeciency? The top of the plant is light green as well, will get better pics tonight.


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## next (Feb 7, 2015)

Now im armed with some functional equipment. Flushed this plant with amost 25liters of R/O water that had 75ppm of cal/mag in it, ph'd to 6.0. Water initially came out at 6.7, with a ppm of 700-1000. I kept flushing until ppms were less than 300, runoff ph was around 6.5, so I then added 200ppm of bloom, which dropped the ph to 3.5 with ppm of 300 (was only a small small amount of bloom). Watered that into the plant and run off came out at 6.07 with a ppm of just over 300. Lets hope this will clear things up, did I do this correctly?

I believe I should be doing a feed, water, feed, schedule instead of feed, feed, feed.. mhmm. And more run-off at watering time!


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## next (Feb 9, 2015)

The Hemp Goddess said:


> It looks to be nute burn to me.  It is just on the tips of the new growth. If the nutrients in the perlite are not organic, you do not have an organic grow.  Growing organic is kind of like being pregnant--you either are or you aren't.  Chemical nutrients will kill the microbes in the soil.  If you are growing organic, pH should not be an issue.  If you are not, it is critical.  We worry less about the pH of the soil if it is close to 7, but it is not really the soil pH that is the issue, it is the pH of what you are feeding the plant and the pH of the run-off.  I am not familiar with the green pill type of pH measurement, but IME, I have found nothing to really be accurate except a quality meter that is regularly calibrated.  We do need to know the pH down to an (accurate) tenth.



I just did a ppm test of run off water I gave to a 2 day old sedling, ppm was at 700!!!

I grabbed some pre-mixed soil I have been using, put r/o water in to the point of saturation then added some more, water came out with a ppm reading of 750-800! &$*# $&#* miracle grow perlite!

**edit**

Did the same thing with plain pro-mix hp, saturated it with ro water, let an oz or two drain out, run off tested at 700ppm. Should I be rinsing the pro-mix before use?


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## zem (Feb 9, 2015)

hey there next, you can just flush this soil out enough and then add dolomite lime and water with 1/2 strength ferts. i had been trying to tell you that you are over feeding since the beginning of this thread  the flush/ph/feed light is foolproof imo and helps whenever you are having multiple or unknown issues


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## zem (Feb 9, 2015)

Hushpuppy why would perlite have readily available ferts in it?


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## next (Feb 9, 2015)

at the beginning of this thread I had only fed them a half doze, once.. and all you had to say was I didn't need to have 20 - 30 items at my disposal to grow a super plant. Then you quoted Wetdog saying having more additives than growing books you have a problem. 

thanks for verifying the flush/ph/feed, too bad I didn't do that 2-3 weeks ago mhmm


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## next (Feb 9, 2015)

Anyone have some pro-mix to test run off ppm?


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## Hushpuppy (Feb 11, 2015)

zem said:


> Hushpuppy why would perlite have readily available ferts in it?


 I was reading in an earlier post that Next was using some Miracle Grow pearlite that had nutes in it.


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## Hushpuppy (Feb 11, 2015)

I think I also read where you had used some organic materials along with synthetic nutrients. I don't recommend doing this at any time unless you really know what you are doing as the 2 different types of materials can conflict. Organic materials are (usually) raw materials with microbes in them to break down those materials to feed the plants. You generally want to run the pH in this material around 6.7, and if left to its own, it will many times balance itself out to around 6.7 due to the action of the microbes and the chemistry of the raw materials. However, if you begin adding other materials that are synthetic in function, the synthetic materials (generally) need to be run at a much lower pH of around 6.0. If this is added to organic materials then the conflict begins and usually ends with the microbes dead, and a bunch of chemically reactive materials in the medium that continue to throw off the pH. You end up with a medium that doesn't want to be either organic or synthetic. At this point, you either have to flush the medium A LOT to get the organic materials out (and you may still not be able to get it all out) or give it a standard flush to remove the synthetic nutrients and go back to full organics. However to go back to full organics, you will need to reintroduce new microbes and begin feeding with organic nutrient teas. This should allow the pH to stay in the 6.7 range and begin to feed the plants again what they need.

I don't recommend any flushing for organic growing as it shouldn't be needed unless a major issue has occurred that requires the removal of some of the materials. 

I do recommend that synthetic grows in soilless mediums be flushed once about half way through the grow. Flushing every month should not be needed, and shouldn't be done unless there is some real issues going on. You have to remember with flushing, once a medium is flushed well, the medium is relatively clean, and is back to square one on nutrients. Not every soilless/synthetic grower does mid-grow flushing(nor does everyone need it), but I think it is a good practice to prevent issues of chemical buildup that can cause problems later in flower.


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## next (Feb 11, 2015)

Thanks hush,

I understand the importance of keeping it all organic. Was a simple mistake, I thought all perlite was an inert material. Anyways.. lots of people have used "miracle gro perlite" with organic grows and had no problems, but it will not be used in my next grow. I will find some better stuff, I see that pro-mix makes some have ever used it?

Flushing to get the organics out isn't really going to work considering the only nutes I have are organic, the only sythetic ferts used was the perlite and maybe hygrozyme? but I think thats an enzyme

You hit the nail on the head with the 6.7 Ph. All of my plants had a run off ph of 6.7, I know ph doesn't matter as much with organics, but what ph would you recommend watering with for my next grow?

Due to the recommended no flushing of organic growing I may have taken that advice  it a litte too far, and I wasn't giving the recommended 30% run off, it was more like 10%. I had 5, 16L pots and was using about 40- 50L of water per feed. Also I only gave them a plain water feed once in almost 2 months, I think alternating between nutes and straight water may help?

So there's 5 plants, 3 are happy, 2 are not. The 3 that are happy are almost ready to be chopped down, trichs are just turning amber. The other 2 are taking a little longer, due to genetics, as well some nute lockout / nute burn. So the flushing was done to remove nutes from the amost ready plants, and hopefully fix up the not so healthy ones. Sounds like I should of left the ph alone at 6.7. 

My main concern at the moment is that with the "Plain" pro-mix still in the bale, I take a cup full, wet it with RO water, get some run off, and it checks out at 700ppm. No miracle grow, no nothing, plain ro water with 7ppm going in, and 700 coming out! After a small flush, its all under control, just seems odd. Apparently I need to be flushing the pro0mix before using it.

Next round I wont be doing multiple strains, it just doesn't work out when you feed them all the same, but they each have their own individual needs. My next round will be with clones, so I will have more uniform results hopefully. I have the seed planted, I have been checking run of ppm and ph, and I have been watering until the run off matches up with whats going on. The seedling is in like a 4 oz cup and it takes about a cup of water to get things even with the going in, and coming out. I used normal water to germinate, since then its been RO water with 75ppm of cal/mag and a tad of myco madness, and a few drops of hygrozyme. Final ppm is about 100, is that alright? I've been using hygrozyme at a rate of 1ml/L.


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## Hushpuppy (Feb 14, 2015)

FFirst, for the seedlings, you don't need to use the hygrozyme. Its not necessary at this point. In fact, I don't use hygrozyme at all during any of the veg stage. I only use it in the flower stage to clean up errant chemicals and help make any extra stuff more available to the plants. Right now, there is little that is available to the plants in the medium except what you put in.

The 700ppm is probably just the micro particles that are in the medium. The fact that you are running a small amount of water through and checking the ppm is the reason for the high ppm. If you were to take that 1 cup off medium and pour a gallon of wate through it and then take the gallon of runoff water and check the ppm, you should find it to be very low. I doubt seriously that the micro materials that are registering even have any affect on the medium, plants or pH chemistry of the medium.

You said something about alternating between nutes and plain water: Due to the recommended no flushing of organic growing I may have taken that advice it a litte too far, and I wasn't giving the recommended 30% run off, it was more like 10%. I had 5, 16L pots and was using about 40- 50L of water per feed. Also I only gave them a plain water feed once in almost 2 months, I think alternating between nutes and straight water may help?

What nutes are you feeding with? are they organic nutes? The reason I ask is that if you are feeding with synthetic nutes then the Myco madness is useless as the microbes will die.


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## next (Feb 14, 2015)

Hi hush,

Thanks for the reply, I am using Earth Juice, grow boom meta-k micro and xatalyst. Should all be organic.. 

Interesting about the micro particles, I did not know that.. 

I was under the assumption that hygrozyme was beneficial at all stages of growth? I was using it at 1/4 strength or so.  Are you saying with an organic grow, hygrozyme is useless?

Thanks agian.

Peace.


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## Hushpuppy (Feb 15, 2015)

Hygrozyme is beneficial to all grows whether organic or synthetic (in my opinion) But in the early stages of seedlings, and even through early veg, it isn't very important, especially if you are managing your microbe herd well.

The key to hygrozyme is what it actually is. When microbes break down raw materials and make them available to the plants (a process called chelation), They actually use enzymes that they produce in their bodies to do the chelation process. The enzymes are what actually do the work of chelation. Hygrozyme is the enzymes from these beneficial microbes, which has been farmed and extracted from beneficial microbes, and bottled.

When you add hygrozyme to a medium of hydro application, these enzymes float around and do the same things that they would do if they were being spit out by the microbes that you put in the soil. It is, however, a little more random than the way the microbes would do it. But for your application, where you have seedlings in basically innert medium, the enzymes are just sitting there doing nothing because there is nothing for them to do. 

On the other hand, if you are also adding microbes to the medium, then they are going to the plant and forming a symbiosis with the plant at the roots. There still isn't much for them to do yet as there is nothing there for them to chelate other than the medium itself. But once you begin feeding the plants the organic materials, the microbes will go to work grabbing the elements and making them available to the plants.

Later in the grow, as the plants get very big and their demands ffor nutrients goes waay up, the microbe herd may not be able to keep up. At that point the enzymes in the hygrozyme may be quite beneficial as it supplements what the microbes are able to do. The hygrozyme is also good at binding with and locking out some of the more useless chemicals in the medium that may be detrimental to the plant. Although this benefit is far more useful for synthetic grows than organic grows as there is more likely to be a significant amount of unused chems in the synthetic nutrients such as salts.

Since you do seem to be fully organic, I would read up on microbe herd health and focus on taking care of them as they are the caretakers of the plant. I would still use the hygrozyme but only during the fflowering when it would really be helpffull as that stuff is quite expensive.


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## next (Feb 15, 2015)

Awesome information! Thankyou thankyou!

I will def use it with the next feed on the older plants, due to the problems that have arised. If I damaged the micro heard, sounds like this is the next best thing I can do to try and get these plants finished.


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## Hushpuppy (Feb 18, 2015)

very possible that the zyme would help them get the nutrients that they need and lock up any toxic build-ups.


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## next (Feb 25, 2015)

Fuzzy pics for some reason, but this is how she turned out.. funky plant 

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## Hushpuppy (Feb 28, 2015)

Looks very good. some tasty looking buds for sure


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## Kraven (Feb 28, 2015)

Nice finish, good looking nugs.


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## next (Feb 28, 2015)

For a sick plant, she did have a decent finish. Not much bulk but she did her best. I hung her up to dry the day I took the pic. She started out one of the biggest plants in veg, but probly had the lowest yield. I think im very lucky she pulled through, still don't really know what caused things to head south. Lessons were learned.. Thanks guys for all your help!


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