# Calcium deficiency  Question



## DAT (Oct 27, 2007)

Hi all - I figured out that I have a calcium problem or something real close to it.  My question is once I fix the deficiency by adding dolomite lime to the res will the leafs that are showing the deficiency go back to normal?  I looked around for the answer but could not find it.  Thanks for the help friends.


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## Oscar (Oct 27, 2007)

*Calcium Deficiency*

Young leaves are affected first and become small and distorted or chlorotic with irregular margins, spotting or necrotic areas. Bud development is inhibited, blossom end rot and internal decay may also occur and root may be under developed or die back. Deficiency will cause root tip die-back, leaf tip curl and marginal necrosis and chlorosis primarily in younger leaves. Symptoms: young leaves develop chlorosis and distortion such as crinkling, dwarfing, developing a strap-like shape, shoots stop growing and thicken.

*Calcium Toxicity*

Difficult to distinguish visually. May precipitate with sulfur in solution and cause clouding or residue in tank. Excess calcium may produce deficiencies in magnesium and potassium.


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## Oscar (Oct 27, 2007)

http://www.onlinepot.org/grow/nutrients2.htm

Finally I found the Chart!

Hope it helps.


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## DAT (Oct 27, 2007)

Thnaks O -  I figured it is the lack of calcium but was wondering if the leafs will go back to being heathy or will it just stay the way it is and have new growth and will not get worse.  ThK Bro


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## Oscar (Oct 27, 2007)

With a pic or two we should be able to make you a *happy camper!*


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## DAT (Oct 27, 2007)

Oscar - I took them a few days ago but it is hard to see in the pics but here you go.  The spots on the leafs are hard to see in the pics but you can see the tips and the sides curling up.  Thanks again


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## Oscar (Oct 27, 2007)

Here comes the questions:

Are you using soil and if so which recipe?
What kind of ventilation do you have running?
HPS........or CFL's?
Number 1 and 5 look like they are taking a beating!
When was the last time the grow room was throughly cleaned?
Have you used any pesticides or other remedies?
How long do you figure before  harvest?

I've seen worse........don't worry there's alot of *remedies and members* here with secret potions that will fix ya right up!


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## DAT (Oct 28, 2007)

Are you using soil and if so which recipe? - No soil this is a aerojet - I am using cutting edge and it is running around 1400 ppm - They seem to lie it the best - I have tried 800 ppm and as high as 2800 on the stain -  other grows

What kind of ventilation do you have running? -  I am running 1 large can fan for intake and a bigger one for exh.  I am also using co2 because off this reason. The temps are around 80 in day and 70 at night - 40 to 60 % h

HPS........or CFL's? = 1000 two hps

Number 1 and 5 look like they are taking a beating! - Here u

When was the last time the grow room was throughly cleaned? - before veg with bleach and bug spray

Have you used any pesticides or other remedies? - never

How long do you figure before harvest? 4 to 5 weeks


OK


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## DAT (Oct 28, 2007)

Sorry forgot the THANK!!!!


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## Oscar (Oct 28, 2007)

*SYMPTOMS**DEFICIENCY*Entire plant is light green in color; lower leaves are yellow; growth is stuntedNitrogenEntire plant is bluish-green, often developing a red or purplish cast; lower leaves may be yellow, drying to a greenish-brown to black color; growth may be stuntedPhosphorousLeaves have a papery appearance; dead areas along the edges of the leaves; growth is stuntedPotassiumLower leaves turn yellow along the tips and margin and between the veins; the lower leaves wiltMagnesiumYoung stems and new leaves dieCalciumLeaf tissue between the veins is lighter in color; yellowed; papery in appearanceZincLeaf tissue appears yellow, while the veins remain greenIronLeaf edges appear dark green or blue; leaf edges curl upward; young leaves permanently wiltCopperYoung leaves turn pale green, while the older leaves remain green; plant is stunted and spindlySulfurGrowth is stunted; lower leaves have a checkered pattern of yellow and greenManganeseLeaves are stunted, pale green, and malformedMolybdenumYoung leaves are scorched at tips and marginBoron
Occasionally, the nutrients in a hydroponic system are used up faster than they can be replaced, and the plants will show a nutrient deficiency. A quick fix for most of the deficiencies is to spray the leaves with an all-purpose, foliar fertilizer, although this will not completely solve the problem. The best remedy is to change the nutrient solution every week instead of every two weeks. In some cases, it may be necessary to switch to a different type of hydroponic fertilizer, if the same deficiencies persist. There are several books on hydroponics that give other remedies for a nutrient deficiency problem.


http://www.planetnatural.com/site/xdpy/kb/home-hydroponics.html

Here's wher I got the mumbo jumbo.


I'm looking for more info........


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## DAT (Oct 28, 2007)

O - I found this and it looked to me like it was calium.  

http://planetganja.com/highsociety/showthread.php?t=8778&highlight=spotting


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## Oscar (Oct 28, 2007)

I'm super jealous of your system that I just looked up!

*I found more info to shed some light on PH issue.*



"I follow and highly recommend the following parameters for hydroponic nutrient solutions for aeroponic, bubblers, drip, ebb and flow, NFT, passive, rockwool and wick systems. 

PH 5.1-5.9 (5.2 optimal) 
TDS 500-1000ppm, EC .75-1.5 
Temperature 68-78f, 20-25c (75f, 24c optimal) 

The pH of the nutrient solution is a major determinant of nutrient uptake by the plant. If the pH wanders outside the optimum range of between pH 5.1 and pH 5.9, then nutritional deficiency and/or toxicity problems can occur. For hydroponic nutrient solutions used with inert media, keep the pH at 5.2 for optimal elemental uptake. It is at this point that roots most readily assimilate nutrients. These pH and TDS/EC recommendations may seem low relative to the normally suggested range, but are based upon information garnered from "Hydroponic Nutrients" by M. Edward Muckle and Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses. They both document the low pH resulting in increased nutrient uptake and my experience has shown discernible health and yield improvements at a ph of 5.2 over higher levels. 

On page 100, Hydroponic Nutrients displays both the assimilation chart for organic soil applications and another for inert medium hydroponics, which depicts the vastly different scenarios. The widely accepted soil based chart is frequently misapplied to water culture applications. His research and that done by others, documented in Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses, indicate that iron and phosphorous precipitate in nutrient solutions at pH levels above 6. Stay below a pH of 6 by all means to avoid this problem and benefit. 

The nutrient assimilation rate is further enhanced by the reduction in solution TDS/EC, which reduces osmotic pressure and allows the roots to draw the nutrients "easier". Young, established seedlings or rooted cuttings are started at 500-600ppm. The TDS is increased to 800-900ppm during peak vegetative growth. During the transition from early to heavy flowering, TDS is further raised to 1000-1100ppm. It is then reduced to 400-500ppm during the final 2 weeks of flushing. The plants demonstrate their preference for a lower TDS/EC when running a lower pH by clearly sustaining higher growth rates. 

The optimum temperature for hydroponic solutions to be is 24c/75f. At this point, most elements are assimilated highest and atmospheric oxygen is most readily dissolved. Although increases in temperature increase the rate of photosynthesis, avoid exceeding the maximum listed of 25c/78f. Elevated temperatures make some elements more available, but reduce the solution's dissolved oxygen capacity, increasing root disease likelihood."


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## Oscar (Oct 28, 2007)

DAT said:
			
		

> O - I found this and it looked to me like it was calium.
> 
> http://planetganja.com/highsociety/showthread.php?t=8778&highlight=spotting


 
*I think you're onto something.*


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## DAT (Oct 28, 2007)

Also the sprayers are on 24 hours - The system states it is a aeroponic system but once you get the roots hitting the bottom the root ball sits in the water.  I flush once a week and keep it all clean.  Use RO water and keep PH 5.8 to 6.2.  Not sure what else I can say about it.  I did add 2 teaspools of dolomite lime last night so hope it gets better.


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## Oscar (Oct 28, 2007)

Keep us posted!


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## DAT (Oct 28, 2007)

I will and thanks again for the help.  It is all in the name of FUN


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## Oscar (Oct 28, 2007)

Absolutely bud,  because we are all *hypothetically *growing and havin' FUN!


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## DAT (Oct 28, 2007)

Oscar -ya it is all good.   YOu got a project in the works?


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## Oscar (Oct 28, 2007)

The mind never stops........._ideas I got lots!_

If only I was cloned things would go a little faster.


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## forget (May 4, 2008)

anyone know a quick fix for Ca def?  Perhaps some whole milk in a gallon of water?  

My harvest is a week from chop and a couple of fan leaves are showing Ca def on them, very early stages but im sure that is what it is.  Suppose I give them some milk next watering, would that help?


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## Hick (May 4, 2008)

"a week from chop".. I wouldn't concern myself with a 'slight' defficiency..in the early stages


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## gagjababy (May 4, 2008)

your affected leaves will not recover, but your new growth will be fine.


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