# Super-Simple cloning



## ozzydiodude

In the April 2009 "High Times" a article titled "super-simple cloning" by Jef Tek gave this way to clone
Fill 20 oz cup with Pro-Mix HP or any other peat-based soilless mix(like sam's Club potting soil)Holes in the bottom of the cup are up to you (I cut holes in my cups)
rooting hormone of your choice(I used Schultz TakeRoot)
Cut a long-stemmed clone from your mother plant. take a whole lower branch-these are chronlogically the oldest and will root the fastest. trim off all the lowerbranches on a steam at least 6 inches long but preferably 9 inches or longer.As long as you have a growing top and two fan leaves the clone will prosper.
Use a pencil to make a hole in the soil to insert the cutting after you have dipped it in rooting hormone. 
Simply water it with 4 oz of 1/2 strength vegetative ferts water each cup evenly and then place it a few inches beneath a fluorescent light.
In a week or two the cutting(clone) will have started to root. Fertilize the plants lightly, when theystart to grow bigger, you can give them a full strength fertilization before transplanting.
If you cut or drill holes you can water from the bottom for even better root growth. 
No Humidity Domes are needed with a minimum of 5 inches of stem touching moist soil, the little plant will just about continue growing while busting roots. the plant is still pulling moisture from the stem so the leaves aren't trying to suck water from the air(thereby delaying proper root formation)

15 days ago I took these 4 cutting to just try this way all 4 rooted That does make it a easy way to clone just make sure the soil stays moist.
Pictures 5 & 6 are of the root as they looked today when I checked them They are ready to transplant this week some time


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## Newbud

Hmmm i wonder if i could do that with coco???


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## ozzydiodude

Try and see I just tried this way to see if it worked like the article said and it did this time. I plan to try it again when I have the time to take clones again.


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## 4u2sm0ke

Very nice  thanks for shareing with us..Newbud..I use coco for my clones..so i say it will work for this just fine


Take care and be safe:bong:


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## Newbud

I'll probably give it a go at somepoint, maybe do a trial run next time i'm cloning.


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## gary18

I was just gonna ask about a simple, but effective method. I have two, Ginger and Mary-Ann, that are just screaming at me to let them have children.
Thanks the timing was perfect. 

:watchplant::bolt::smoke1:    Later.


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## MindzEye

This method rocks!! I have done this before several years ago and it worked but not as well as this time!! I got excellent results, clones were dipped in hormone liquid then put into small pots of 50/40/10 Peat Moss, Co-Co coir, pearlite and watered with 1/4 strength nutes. I used a humidity dome ... The pics is what happend 14 days later...


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## ozzydiodude

Thanks MindzEye for letting us know that this way work for other and not just me. Nice looking clones.


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## Motor City Madman

Thanks for sharing could always use good pointers on cloning.


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## NorCalHal

ozzydiodude said:
			
		

> take a whole lower branch-these are chronlogically the oldest and will root the fastest.


 
Here is a fun fact.

The reason lower branches are more apt to root faster is lower branches have less N in them. The less N you have in your mother plant, the faster the cuttings will root. Also smaller diameter stalks root faster.

Nice easy method.


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## greenfriend

NorCalHal said:
			
		

> Here is a fun fact.
> 
> The reason lower branches are more apt to root faster is lower branches have less N in them. The less N you have in your mother plant, the faster the cuttings will root. Also smaller diameter stalks root faster.
> 
> Nice easy method.


 
sorry to get off topic, but Hal, im sure you are familiar with the 6 pack cloning method in 4" rockwool cubes like they use at Oaksterdam Nursery.  Their clones always seem to have thick stems and huge fans leaves, as if they took a whole branch off the plant.  Do you think their clones take a lot longer?  I am about to try the 6 pack method, once the clones start to show roots in my DIY EZ-Cloner ill put them in 4" cubes on a heatmat until they blast roots.  Those guys at Coffeshop Blue Sky bring in 300-700 clones a day so they must have this method perfected!


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## Lemmongrass

I do something similar. i use 2x2 square pots i recycled from squash starts. i pack them with a lightly nuted and microfungi promix mixture, use my pencil to poke a hole. i use smaller clones because ive been taking them off of small sog plants in flower. they are about 6" total. i guess this is why i have to mist them but i only do that with a dome for about a week on 24hr light under a flouro. i cut them at a 45* then stick them in water. once i have all my cuts and soil preped i scarify the portion of the stem that will be under the dirt then cut the bottom again at a 45* angle about .5" up from the orig cut. i read that this prevents against air getting up the stem. they then go from thew water, into root powder then into the hole. i make sure the dirt is moist when i prep it but i also give them a couple oz of water after poking them right in. ive taken 2 crops of clones now and haven't killed one(even a couple 2" long cuttings i took!!!).  this sounds real similar! im deff going to try larger clones with 5" under dirt and test ti out. id love to not need a 90% environment!


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## robbiegy2k

LOL I posted a question elsewhere that your post pretty much answers! Nice one, I was looking for a simple way to do this (my first time using cuttings) and it seems i've found it. :aok:


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## NorCalHal

greenfriend said:
			
		

> sorry to get off topic, but Hal, im sure you are familiar with the 6 pack cloning method in 4" rockwool cubes like they use at Oaksterdam Nursery. Their clones always seem to have thick stems and huge fans leaves, as if they took a whole branch off the plant. Do you think their clones take a lot longer? I am about to try the 6 pack method, once the clones start to show roots in my DIY EZ-Cloner ill put them in 4" cubes on a heatmat until they blast roots. Those guys at Coffeshop Blue Sky bring in 300-700 clones a day so they must have this method perfected!


 
It's the hormone they are usuing, and I have been looking for it for a while now. It is pure endo butyric acid, I think that is the spelling. If you look on rooting hormone packs/bottles, they all have this in it, but I know that OakU usues the pure form, and they get roots in 7-10 days in 4 inch blocks.


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## hanfhead

Very cool! Thanks for sharing.


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## Super Silver Haze

NorCalHal said:
			
		

> It's the hormone they are usuing, and I have been looking for it for a while now. It is pure endo butyric acid, I think that is the spelling. If you look on rooting hormone packs/bottles, they all have this in it, but I know that OakU usues the pure form, and they get roots in 7-10 days in 4 inch blocks.


 
NCH, here is the spelling.  *indole butyric acid*  OR *Indolyl butyric acid.*

im not sure of the difference but ill check into where you can buy raw indolyl butyric acid.  i have to leave for rugby practice so ill do some research when i get home


ok, check out this link and see if this is what you are looking for.
Apollo Scientific
5 grams $25   25 gm $77
hXXp://www.apolloscientific.co.uk/display_item.asp

Interchem Technologies

Indole-3-Butyric Acid (IBA) is used in the same manner as IAA and is accepted around the world as a propagating and rooting hormone for ornamental and fruit graftings and cuttings.
Indone-3-Butyric Acid appears to be the most practical of the indole Alkonic Acid Series and is especially effective for initiating roots of both stems and leaves.
IBA is a white or tan powder or crystalline solid which exhibits the reactions characteristic of an organic acid. It is insoluble in water bot soluble in alkali metal hydroxides and carbonates and in common organic solvents. In the agricultueral chemical field Indole-3-Butyric Acid is used to promote the rooting of plant cuttings and the ripening of fruit.ater absorption of the cells. IAA causes a fairly rapid increase in the cell wall extensibility in coleoptiles and young stems.

Interchem Technologies
San Diego Office
1147 Merritt Drive
San Diego (El Cajon), California 92020
USA

Voice: (619) 444-1209
Fax: (619) 444-1376
hXXp://www.interchemtechnologies.com/ic/IBA.htm

Phyto Technology Labs
hXXp://www.phytotechlab.com/detail.aspx?ID=388

Sigma-Aldrich
To get pricing you must register
hXXp://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/ProductDetail.do?N4=I5386%7CSIGMA&N5=SEARCH_CONCAT_PNO%7CBRAND_KEY&F=SPEC

Colonial  Scientific
hXXps://www.colonialscientific.com/OScatalog/index.php?products_id=138407&source=googleps

Independent Laboratory Distributors Association
ILDA is an association of independent laboratory product distributors and their suppliers whose purpose is to help members succeed in serving the needs of their customers. 
ILDA is committed to providing a forum for networking and educating its members and for promoting the association to the laboratory market.
hXXp://www.ilda.org/


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## meds4me

4u2sm0ke said:
			
		

> Very nice thanks for shareing with us..Newbud..I use coco for my clones..so i say it will work for this just fine
> 
> 
> Take care and be safe:bong:


 
Yup same here ----coco coir mixed with black gold potting soil.


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## meds4me

black gold potting mix comes in a couple diff varieties. The Orig. black gold and organic ones i mix for the rich worm casting base. add in coco coir as MASSP buckets and youre off an runnin


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## NorCalHal

Thanks SSH..that is it.


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## Super Silver Haze

NCH, no problem.  i followed your stickey on cloning and 3 out of 3 21 + days and they are healthy.  this was my first time attempting to clone so i thank you for the info.

please keep us updated on how to use it.



Interchem Technologies 

...In the agricultueral chemical field Indole-3-Butyric Acid is used to promote the rooting of plant cuttings and the *ripening of fruit*...

The Ripening of Fruit is another use for IBA.  after reading this i had to ask the expierenced growers if they have ever heard this and now does anyone plan on trying to use IBA for this.  im all ears.


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## seyaat420

so what is a good cloning gel/liquid. I have used dry cloning hormone with roses, before. But it dident work with my cuttings from my mother. so yea whats the best cloning solution you think?


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## ozzydiodude

I have always used dry cloning powders. I never have a problem with then and could not recomend a gel/liquid.


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## DonJones

This is so awesome!  We've been struggling with using cloning machines of various types and this look so much easier and more productive.  Right now we are growing in soil, but want to switch to WATER FARMS hydro because we have been told we can shorten our cycles significantly and then we can quit worring about transplanting into bigger pots before flowering.

My question is,  is it practial to take these rooted clones and move them into WATER FARM combo DWC/Areoponic hydro systems in individual 5 gallon buckets using either coco chips or clay balls for growing media? 

If so , do we need to try to the clean the soil off of the roots so that is won't get down into the solution and plug up the pump systems?

If so, how do we do that without causing damaging the roots and causing problems that way?

I know for sure that I'm going to try this the next time I clone, which might be today or tomorrow because I've got 4 low riders that I'm about to transplant and then put into bud.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!

Don Jones


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## SicSativa

Do you think I could  get the same results using Happy Frog potting soil and perlite? Or is it to hot? And how often do you water the cutting before roots? Thanks


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## ozzydiodude

I have never used HappyFrog so I have no idea about it. Try it for yourself and see. As far as watering goes when the soil looks dry water it with PH 7 water normally every 2 to 3 days. I don't usually check for roots, When the cutting starts growing I transplant, this has been at the 10th to 18th day after taking from the mother plant. Usually the stem starts thickening then new growth appears


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## Barbapopa

Don Jones, what type of cloning machine have you been using?  I recently bought an ez-cloner 120 site machine and have it under 4 4" t5s and it kicks serious butt.  I dare say I love that thing, one of my best growing purchases.  I just cut my clones, dip them in clonex and put them in the machine.  Not 1 clone has died.  And to all the people that are going to say that ez-cloners cost to much, I do a lot of DIY and I just wanted something that worked and worked right now.  Every clone I have placed in the machine has rooted.  I will need to post some pictures of the clones.  I found that once the clone roots, I can put it in a 2" x 2" rockwool cube and put them back into the machine and let them root a while longer.  The machine is not meant to work like that and yet it does.


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## Hick

SicSativa said:
			
		

> Do you think I could  get the same results using Happy Frog potting soil and perlite? Or is it to hot? And how often do you water the cutting before roots? Thanks



I used ocean forest for years with success, but have never tried happy frog for cuttings. I would think that their Light warrior would be an excellent choice. 



> My question is, is it practial to take these rooted clones and move them into WATER FARM combo DWC/Areoponic hydro systems in individual 5 gallon buckets using either coco chips or clay balls for growing media?
> 
> If so , do we need to try to the clean the soil off of the roots so that is won't get down into the solution and plug up the pump systems?
> 
> If so, how do we do that without causing damaging the roots and causing problems that way?


....DJ, if you're going to put them in a hydro system, just "forget" the soil/dirt. Use 100% perlite. 
In fact, I'm a dirt farmer, and I have found that straight perlite is "THE" way to go..IMO.
No soil makes it a simple task to check the root development. Simply submerge the entire cup in a bucket of water. The perlite floats and allows you to remove the cutting from the cup to inspect the roots. If it hasn't developed enough roots, stick it back down in the perlite/cup and allow it to continue.


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## dirtyolsouth

SicSativa said:
			
		

> Do you think I could  get the same results using Happy Frog potting soil and perlite? Or is it to hot? And how often do you water the cutting before roots? Thanks



I've used FFOF for 10 years or so and recently I tried some Happy Frog cuz my local shop had it on sale.  I'd never HF before and after one test spin I HATE this stuff.  For shanizzle n giggles I grew some bagseed seedlings to test it and it burned the daylights out of many different seedlings...  and each seedling was from a different sack of bagseed...   I threw the last of it out in my flower bed and worked it in but I'll never get any of that again.  I was really miffed and surprised at how poor HF performed, especially for a Foxfarm product...   I'm glad I didn't grow any high dollar seeds in that stuff...

Peace!


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## dirtyolsouth

DonJones said:
			
		

> This is so awesome!  We've been struggling with using cloning machines of various types and this look so much easier and more productive.



Sorry DonJones but WHAT could be any easier than using a cloning machine?  If you're having problems my guess is it's either a pathogen or ph issue.  Do you thoroughly clean and disinfect your cloner periodically?  Is it a commercial cloning machine or a DIY?  Is it light-tight?  Are your air hoses black so they don't allow any light down into the water?  You should be rooting clones SILLY with cloning machines and then transplanting them directly into your net pots using any of the hydroton/coir/silica, etc. hydro option that you choose to grow in.  

Hmmmmm....


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## Hick

dirtyolsouth said:
			
		

> I've used FFOF for 10 years or so and recently I tried some Happy Frog cuz my local shop had it on sale.  I'd never HF before and after one test spin I HATE this stuff.  For shanizzle n giggles I grew some bagseed seedlings to test it and it burned the daylights out of many different seedlings...  and each seedling was from a different sack of bagseed...   I threw the last of it out in my flower bed and worked it in but I'll never get any of that again.  I was really miffed and surprised at how poor HF performed, especially for a Foxfarm product...   I'm glad I didn't grow any high dollar seeds in that stuff...
> 
> Peace!


ya' know, my shop was outta OF too. I went ahead and purchased a bag of happy frog and mixed it approximately 70/30 happy frog to light warrior. I'm not having any issues..:confused2:...


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## OldSkool

I use sand. Plain old sand. Stole some from the kids sandbox nextdoor. Dug out a couple of cat turds and rinsed the sand in tap water. Filled up some plastic beer cups with sand, dipped the clones in powdered hormones and plopped them in. With drainage holes of course...

Rooted like crazy at every node! Works like a charm, has for 40 years....Cheap too. Damn near 100% success rate with the babies.

Now THAT"S _oldskool!_


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## leafminer

Like OldSkool I do the same, except I use coco. Have an excellent success rate unless the weather is too hot.


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## ozzydiodude

That is the key to cloning find what works for you and stick with it.


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## JBonez

this method is great, be sure to use clear cups, then sit them in normal cups, that way you can check for roots without light getting to them.


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## ozzydiodude

That is a great idea *JBonez* that is imo the hardest thing about the way of cloning is checking for roots


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## JBonez

Thanks!

great thread!


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## JBonez

Ozzy, if i may add my personal opinion.

Soil, especially FFOF, which ive got plenty of experience with tends to dry up and make it difficult for even penetration of solution without flooding it.

Coco, which has a better mix of air/nutrient/water ratios, has become my fav way of cloning with this method.

FFOF is just a super water retaining bag of one week fertilizer, that sure enough does its job, but once its been tapped is nothing more than a pain in the but imo.

Coco, which im noticing amongst more and more growers, is quickly making its way into homes of the best and worst growers.

It doesnt need to really be mixed with perlite, it dries and retains a much better ratio of air/solution, and it absorbs water like a sponge, even absorption means less solution needed. FF tends to form a crust that appears to actually repel water if you dont keep it somewhat moist.

You can rub your hands in it forever and it washes off as if it were plastic, and vacuums nicely to boot.  Easy also for beneficials to thrive as it is an organic material as well.


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## PencilHead

My grow shop guy says FF has changed OF since they began producing it on the east coast.  He says they are using pine bark instead of redwood mulch, and it is becoming hotter still.  I'm only quoting a capitalist shop owner here, so don't crucify me.  He could have other motives--like another vendor could be stroking him so he strokes his customers.

I've changed over to Orgainicare Pure Earth, a coco coir mix.  I'm still not up on when to water yet since the coco doesn't seem to ever dry out, but I'm getting there.


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## IB_Funky

Would it be too late to do this, while in the second week of the flowering stage???? From what ive read, you can clone, but it would take a little longer for the plants to revert and root, than cloning from the veg stage


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## ozzydiodude

I have cloned off plant in their 5th week of flowering with this method of cloning. The clone go thru reveg then start growing like a normal clone. 

IME root took a little longer to grow and the plant took longer to reach a size to clone from or put into flowering


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## tastyness

Tried this 7 days ago and so far so good.  All the tops are still green.  I had a hard time finding stems long enough to get the require 6" into the cup.  Mine barely fit because my plastic cups are a little under the solo size.  Also did clear cups inside of the solos so I can check the roots.  

Still can't see any roots yet but not worried since this was mostly a practice run on how to clone.  Will be taking my real clones later this week.

Update: so here are some pics at around 12 days.  The first batch of 6 are all still alive (the test patients) and two look pretty lame.  One has fabulous roots growing down in the cup.  It is important to note that temps were very low during this first experiment.




Now have 9 more clones in cups, and all are looking gorgeous after on day 3.  I am misting them once/twice a day- just because 

Here are the same clones after 6 days.  They have had 1/4 cup of 1/4 strength tea once from bottom and once from top.  The gel hormone I used has worked really well, once or twice I misjudged the depth and the last node was near the surface.  They've grown roots into the air. Purple Cup front row.  There are see through cups inside the colored cups with holes poked in the bottom.


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## sMACkaddict

Could this be done using dry nutes?  If i mixed a little into the soil or top dressed it?  <-- Referring to the Super-Simple cloning method.


sMACk


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## linzwa

Very good info, but I'm kinda confused about using a dome or not using a dome. How do you decide on which way to go? I've read some do and some don't. Just wondering because I'm having a hard time cloning. Thanks.


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## ozzydiodude

Tastyness you dont need 6in clones as long as you have 2 sunleaves to cut off you should have no problems.

sMACk I dont uses nutes on clones til they are showing plenty of roots

Linzwa It's all in trying serveral different cloning methods and finding the one that works best for you


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## Orcaman

linzwa said:
			
		

> Very good info, but I'm kinda confused about using a dome or not using a dome. How do you decide on which way to go? I've read some do and some don't. Just wondering because I'm having a hard time cloning. Thanks.


 
Living here in Colorado relative humidity is very low most of the time. A humidity dome is a must when first taking cuttings. All my cuttings get there own dome using quart Ziplock bags. They fit perfect on my 4 inch pots. I generally have to keep them in there bags up to 14 days. Letting them out at least once a day for a moment. This allows me to give each cutting individual attention based on how easy the strain clones.  When taking a cutting I saturate to soil with a dose of SubCulture M, Mycorrhizal Root Inoculant. Plus dipping the cutting in the same solution before planting. Here is a picture of all of my current cuttings. The front five all just came out of there bags today. All were cut on different days. As long as no wilt they stay out. Doing great! Hope this helps some. 

View attachment 208151


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