# Does Anyone have experience with G13XHaze??



## HomieDaGrower (Jul 12, 2011)

I impulse ordered some last night, and was wondering what I am in for.  These will be for my first indoor grow, in 15 years.  I will be growing in soil, from clones once I find the right mother.   I realize that the Haze side may require longer flowering, but I don't mind that.  I got plenty of meds, and my outdoor crop will be in before I run low.  

Thanks
HomieHogleg


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## Mountain209man (Jul 12, 2011)

mine came from barneys farm and this is my first time with them. outdoor in a "giant bed" i have four, the taller 2 are 6+ ft and the shorter 2 are at least 5 ft will post some pics but cant say much for a smoke report until the fall


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## HomieDaGrower (Jul 12, 2011)

Thanks bro.
I am wondering how they grow, more than smoke, at this point.  Are they heavy/light feeders??  Are they easy or hard to clone??  But that said, I am looking forward to a smoke report this fall.  I don't think I will have a chance to try this strain until December, or January.  
Six Plus Feet, this early in the season???  Wow!!  I am thinking that I might put a couple of clones out next spring, but I am afraid that they may finish a bit to late to grow around here.

Thanks for your response.
HomieHogleg


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## Mountain209man (Jul 14, 2011)

as promised here r sum pics of one lady g13haze. sumone took clones will have to check in on that with him. as for feeding i think she takes a considerable amount more than my super lemon haze and she has the darkest color in the whole plot of 42 and the shorter ones r more like 4 1/2 ft. we popped ours in the greenhouse in early march


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## HomieDaGrower (Jul 14, 2011)

Very Nice,
Thanks bro.  A heavy feeder eh.  
Thanks again

HomieHogleg


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## pawpaw (Jul 30, 2011)

I've been advised that the Mr Nice G-13 Haze is senstive to over feeding and that one should start low and slowly build the nutrient level up to an EC of 1.6


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## HomieDaGrower (Aug 1, 2011)

pawpaw said:
			
		

> I've been advised that the Mr Nice G-13 Haze is senstive to over feeding and that one should start low and slowly build the nutrient level up to an EC of 1.6


Thanks PawPaw. 
 I always start slow with my teas, and strengthen when needed.  I grow organic outdoors.  This will be my first indoor grow since the 80s, when I grew using hydro.  I plan on using TLO for the first time indoors, this grow.  
   So you think I should go light on my amendments, and add by way of teas???

Thanks
HomieHogleg

P.S. My soil is currently cooking, and I could blend it to make it milder.


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## pawpaw (Aug 1, 2011)

HomieHogleg said:
			
		

> So you think I should go light on my amendments, and add by way of teas???


 
I really don't know.  That was the advice I got at Mr Nice's, that's what I'm going to try.


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## HomieDaGrower (Aug 1, 2011)

pawpaw said:
			
		

> I really don't know.  That was the advice I got at Mr Nice's, that's what I'm going to try.



Thanks for the info.

HomieHogleg


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## pawpaw (Aug 1, 2011)

Your welcome, sorry I havn't any experience with cannabis to share.

BTW After getting that advice I purchased a Hanna HI98331 direct reading soil conductivity meter.  But I'm going to be using &#8220;chemical&#8221; ferts.  It's hard for me to imagine that using organics high E.C.s could be a problem as only ionic solutions conduct electricity.  AFAIK it remains true that only nutrients in ionic solute form can be absorbed by roots but ssuch nutrients are created from the organics by bacterial processes  and  so form quite slowly.  I have some *very *rich soil at the edge of a manure pile that I will test in the next few days and let you know what values I get.


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## pawpaw (Aug 1, 2011)

And here is a quote from Mr Nice Seedbank  on their G13 Haze



> Heritage: G13 x Haze
> Category: Exclusive limited editions - New blends of old school genetics
> Family of breed: G13 (50% predominantly Afghan), 50% Haze (IBL)
> Breeder: Nevil and Shantibaba
> ...


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## pawpaw (Aug 1, 2011)

I just went out and took an E.C. measurement on some of the richest organic soil you could imagine and got a reading of 0.21 so I think you should not worry about piling on properly composted organics.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Aug 1, 2011)

HomieHogleg said:
			
		

> Thanks PawPaw.
> I always start slow with my teas, and strengthen when needed.  I grow organic outdoors.  This will be my first indoor grow since the 80s, when I grew using hydro.  I plan on using TLO for the first time indoors, this grow.
> So you think I should go light on my amendments, and add by way of teas???
> 
> ...



What is TLO?


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## HomieDaGrower (Aug 2, 2011)

The Hemp Goddess said:
			
		

> What is TLO?



TLO is True Living Organic.  

This is my base mix.

BASE MIX
 2 gal Quality Organic Soil-mix (or good organic recycled soil mix)
2 gal Thoroughly Rinsed Coir (coconut fiber)
2 gal Perlite (small nugget size)
2 gal Earthworm Castings (fresh earthworm castings, and/or fresh compost works too)


Then my amendments.



AMENDMENTS
 1½ cup Grow or Bloom Pure by Organicare (or 1 cup 5-5-5)
½ cup Greensand
¾ cup Ground Oyster Shells (1 cup if no crushed oyster shells)
1½ cup Crushed Oyster Shells (optional)
½ cup Dolomite Lime (powdered)
1 cup Prilled (pelletized) Fast Acting Dolomite Lime
¼ cup Blood Meal (and/or High N Bird/Bat Guano 12-8-2 N-P-K if flowering 1/8 cup of each)
¼ cup (heaping) Feather Meal
1 cup un-steamed (granular) Bone Meal (like Whitney Farms brand)
½ cup Bulb Food (3-8-8 as one good N-P-K example)
¼ cup Soft Rock Phosphate (powdered)
½ cup (heaping) Gypsum (powdered)
½ cup Kelp Meal
4 cups (heaping) Composted Steer Manure (this inoculates your mix with specialized bacteria and primo organic matter) 
 ½ cup Azomite granular (add an additional ¼ cup greensand if no Azomite)
1 cup Humic Acid Ore granular (like from Down to Earth brand)
1 cup Alfalfa Meal (or 2 cups pellets  make sure pellets are all organic no additives)
 ½ cup Rock Phosphate Granular (optional)
1 cup (heaping) organic rice (important for the good fungi in this soil-mix)




I actually copied this recipe from Rev, and am currently in the 3rd week of cooking, or brewing the soil mix.  It is very important to use chlorine free water, as the chlorine will kill the microbeasties that feed the roots.


Have a great week


HomieHogleg


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## pawpaw (Aug 2, 2011)

Lordy!  That *is* richer than the perimiter of the horses' 10 year old manure pile.  Still I wouldnt' worry about high EC


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## HomieDaGrower (Aug 2, 2011)

pawpaw said:
			
		

> Lordy!  That *is* richer than the perimiter of the horses' 10 year old manure pile.  Still I wouldnt' worry about high EC



Yes the plan is to not have to add anything but water, except a little molasses, to feed the microorganisms.  In other words, feed the micros, and let them feed the plants.

HomieHogleg


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## pawpaw (Aug 3, 2011)

Though I personally don't have any interest in pure organics I appreciate anything done thoughtfully and thoroughly.  I look forward to hearing how your grow goes.  

BTW How do you monitor the progress of the composting?


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## HomieDaGrower (Aug 3, 2011)

pawpaw said:
			
		

> Though I personally don't have any interest in pure organics I appreciate anything done thoughtfully and thoroughly.  I look forward to hearing how your grow goes.
> 
> BTW How do you monitor the progress of the composting?


Hey PawPaw,
I monitor the composting by monitoring the PH, RH, and Temp, in my tumbler.  

I take PH readings, with a probe, at various spots within the tumbler.  If the PH is getting lower between readings, It means that acids are building and the soil could use a turn or two in the tumbler to oxygenate the mix.  I try and keep the RH between 40% and 60%, to maintain my micro-organism population.  I also monitor by way of smell.  If it starts smelling musty, or off, I turn it to expose more of the mix to oxygen, as well as drop the moisture level.  Any offensive smell, is a sign of a problem.
    Early in composting, I am looking for the temp, measured by way of probes, to be in the 40-50 degree C range.  Temp is the main way I decide when the soil has cooked enough, though I am also looking for the PH to stabalize as well.  If the compost has been in the 40-50C range for a week or so, and slowly starts dropping out of that range, I will wait until it has reached about 30C and start checking the PH.  If the PH is still to low, I will turn the soil more.  I am looking for the PH to stabilize between 6.1-7, and the temp in the 30-35C range, before I use the soil as my grow medium.   

I hope that this helps, and makes sense.  I am just going by memory, and I have not had my coffee this morning. :farm:

Have a great day

HomieHogleg


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## pawpaw (Aug 3, 2011)

Thanks, was good reading.


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## Supermanglide (Aug 8, 2011)

I've been advised how the Mr good G-13 Haze is senstive to much more than feeding and that just one should start decrease and progressively create the nutrient level as a amazing offer as an EC of 1.6


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