# leafs look burned and gray



## bizzy323 (Dec 9, 2013)

can anyone please tell me what is causing my leafs to look like this?


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## pcduck (Dec 10, 2013)

More info is needed and a pic of the whole plant would also help.

Could be many things from nute lockout to not enough  P to cold temps.


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## Rosebud (Dec 10, 2013)

THe duck is right.. We need to see the whole plant, if those leaves are just at the bottom vs all over.


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## Dr. Green Fang (Dec 10, 2013)

Yep..everything Duck said. I'll add Cal-Mag deficiency as a possibility as well, but let's see the entire plant please


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## 4u2sm0ke (Dec 10, 2013)

Ive only had issues with Calmag in flower..not in Veg...if these are in flower I would say that she needs some calmag...also could be caused by improper PH levels Blocking out the uptake...more info would help us ..help you

:bong:


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## Hushpuppy (Dec 10, 2013)

Also what is the age of the plant? what are you feeding the plant? are you in soil/using organic nutes or synthetic nutes. What is the pH of your water/feeding solution? That appears right off to be either a Manganese or a Potassium deficiency but it could also be pH causing the elements to be locked out. It depends on the answers to the above questions.


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## trillions of atoms (Dec 10, 2013)

Def need parameter before a proper conclusion can be made... looks like a lockout as its yellowing as well and looked neon before the problem started to occur.


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## bizzy323 (Dec 11, 2013)

The room don't get colder than 65 and hotter than 85. I am using co2 generator keeping at 1250 ppm @3weeks into flower. I check my ph in the soil it was 6.0 I usually adjust my ph to 6.5 before i water and always mix cal mag in my water. The pictures are from my mother plants that are doing the samething in another room.


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## Hushpuppy (Dec 11, 2013)

The problem appears to be pH. In soil, your pH should be above 6.0, closer to 6.5-6.7. Is your soil organic where you have added amendments into the soil or are you doing all of the feeding with synthetic nutes? is the soil soilless medium or organic "bag" soil? These two things will decide how you work the pH to maintain the balance.


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## bizzy323 (Dec 11, 2013)

I mix two bags os ocean forest with one bag of light warrior. I use foxfarm nutrients...there is no way it can be nutrient burn? I feed them at 900ppm


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## Dr. Green Fang (Dec 11, 2013)

Do you use Cal-Mag? 

Nobody else thinks this is specifically Cal-Mag? :confused2:


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## Dr. Green Fang (Dec 11, 2013)

Or perhaps toxicity in the medium? Maybe a good flush of the medium would help.


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## Hushpuppy (Dec 11, 2013)

No cal/mag doesn't present that way that I have ever seen. That looks more like Manganese or K def that is being caused by pH being off. 

That isn't nute burn either. Nute burn would show at the tips of almost every one of the fan leaves and many times the leaves will be very deep green before the leaf tip burn begins. 

I would suggest that you get some dolomite lime and add about 1/4cup to the top of the soil of each pot and using a fork, gently work it into the soil. Then water it into the soil by watering but not to the point that you have runoff. Let it set for a couple days to dry out then water it again with normal nutes pH'd to 6.5. Give it about a week to see if shows improvement. Those necrotic leaves may improve some but not a lot. Chlorosis(the yellowing) will recover if corrected, but necrosis(browning) will not as that is dead tissue.


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## trillions of atoms (Dec 12, 2013)

How are you testing ph?

A soil probe??


get a quality ph meter if you dont own one already and keep it calibrated...


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## bizzy323 (Jan 2, 2014)

yes i got a ph meter and i do use cal mag also


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## Hushpuppy (Jan 2, 2014)

It has been my experience that when the plant exhibits multiple deficiencies at the same time, the problem is usually that the pH is far enough out of the "sweet spot" that it causes those elements to be locked out of absorption. However, If there is an over-abundance of certain chemicals, they can lock out other elements from being absorbed as well. 

From the purple stems and chlorosis in the leaves, it appears to be deficient in phosphorous, but the plant isn't in flowering yet which means that it shouldn't be taking in larger amounts of P at this point. It also appears to have a Manganese deficiency because of the blotchy necrosis that is spread across the plant.

It is possible that, IF you have been using a lot of cal/mag throughout the veg stage along with the FF nutes, then you have created a toxicity issue that is locking out those elements. I would recommend doing a significant flush to clean out the medium and then start from beginning with nutes after the soil dries some.


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## bizzy323 (Jan 3, 2014)

I use 250ml cal mag for every 50gallon of water.....is that a lot? It's weird because I am growing 8 ball kush and GDP and only the 8 ball is looking like that the GDP looks great.


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## Hushpuppy (Jan 3, 2014)

Yeah if you have been using that much from early on in veg then that is too much. The only time I have seen the need to use cal/mag through veg is when using coco medium in hydro applications. I was only using 20ml in 5 gallons when running full coco in hydro. In FFOF soil you shouldn't have been using more than 5ml in 5gal of water during veg, and then not much more during flower, and none at all if using lime in your soil.

The different strains will use differing amounts of elements depending on their phenotypes. Some plants are heavy eaters of certain elements while others will use very little of those same nutrient elements. It seems like the Blue strains use more magnesium and calcium, and nitrogen than other strains, but it is very varied with phenotypes.

Definitely flush them with 3x the volume of water that you have of soil in each pot. Then start over with light nutes, about 600ppm with only about 5ml of calmag until it recovers. If the GDP isn't showing any problems then don't flush it, just keep it like it is and cut back to about 10ml of calmag for the rest of the trip unless she starts showing mag deficiency.

But remember that once you flush it, most of the nutrients that were in the medium/soil will be gone, along with the chem buildup, so from this point forward you will have to be very diligent to watch the plant progress so that you keep it fed at the proper level.


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## The Poet (Jan 24, 2014)

{I have a friend} who is having a severe problem with his plants.
The same brown spots, leaves curling up and falling off, right into flowering!
If this is Tobacco mosaic virus and I have to burn the crop I'll be out for three months and I'll die! 
   What I can find about Tobacco Mosaic virus however didn't mention leaves falling off, I don't have a camera and vegged these with Maxi Grow, and went to Canna Nutes. then the weird leaf die off began. Something is wrong. I flushed with straight water and sprayed vinegar on the leaves, no change. I may flush 3x tomorrow and see what happens but I am freaking out. If I have to burn these 2' tall plants it will be a disaster. 


                                     Help...
The Poet

        "A government that fears arms in the hands of it's people should also fear Rope!"
Nathan Bedford Forest


               Update! 

     It was switching nutes that made all the fan laves die and fall off!
Maxi-grow then Canna at flipping blew the poor little plants minds. Their alright but I was really worried. I came within a day of burning everything to get rid of some horrible virus that incidentally I didn't have. But they are all fine ... so everything is good. 


                                  {Never Mind} 


                                          The Poet


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## Hushpuppy (Jan 26, 2014)

Yes you have to be careful when changing nutrients unless you know for certain that they are compatible. It is always best to flush the medium first if you are unsure of compatibility, then allow them to dry some before adding new nutrients.


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## The Poet (Jan 26, 2014)

Hushpuppy,


       Yes, Maxi-grow is real cheap and the plants don't know the difference. The changing of nutes might be accomplished by half strength old nutes a couple of days then flush real good and start with the half strength new nute, slowly building up to full strength; and right at flowering is a bad time to change anything. 

   I used Maxi-grow to harvest once but noticed a funkyness to it that I attributed to the Maxi-grow so stopped using it. 
   Then since it is so cheap and works good I thought I'd veg with the Maxi and flower with the Canna. 
   I thought I had ruined the entire crop. I am always learning and was reprieved this time. It makes Canna, as expensive as it is look real good or... flush, flush, flush after using the Maxi-grow as I said the plants like it fine. 

                              Always learning


                                           The Poet


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## Hushpuppy (Jan 26, 2014)

I did a whole grow once with Advanced Nutrients' Iguana juice grow and bloom. I did it in a soil setup that drained well enough to allow me to set up a recirculating watering system that watered it twice a day and continued to keep the 15gallons of solution aerated. I did it for just one plant to see how well it would do and it turned out extremely well. I want to say I pulled about 6-7oz of that one plant. If you ever want to change, I highly recommend it even though it is a bit expensive when it is used the way I did. But then again, I had only 1 liter bottles of each and didn't use more than half of each one for that whole grow, so not really sure how cost effective it is compared to other organic nutes.


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## shuggy4105 (Mar 23, 2014)

Phosphorous deficient by the looks of things.


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