# Brand Noobian: Tweak my setup



## MacroMicro (Feb 23, 2015)

1.Feminized Blue Mystic from Nirvana, in transit
2.Homemade grow tent in basement: approx 4'x5'x8'(height). Mylar on walls, its a little wrinkly
3. Will germ in germination starters ordered, from Nirvana
4. Well water, unsoftened, ph approx 7, will reduce to 6.5 with lemon juice 
5. Seedlings: 50:50, ffof:light warrior
6. Early transplant to 1 gal ffof (with 20% perlite and tbsp dolomite lime/gal)
7. Growing under 400w hortilux broad spectrum hps
8. Cold grow room: 50F, 40% RH with hps and portable radiator i am targeting it to 70F). Can also use oscillating heater if needex for additional heat and circulation.  
9. Will not add fert till 3-4 weeks, planning fox farms trio low strength at first

Tried to include all variables. How's this to start?

Thx,
Macro


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## Kraven (Feb 23, 2015)

Fresh air ?


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## MacroMicro (Feb 23, 2015)

The "tent" is a self framed space in a much larger basement; was planning on setting an oscillating desktop fan at entrance to the tent blowing across the radiator. Thermometer will be at stalk base level.


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## pcduck (Feb 24, 2015)

400 watt is way to small for your space.
 Need a 1000 watter at the minimum.


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## The Hemp Goddess (Feb 24, 2015)

Duck is right, you cannot adequately light 20 sq ft with a 400W--you WILL have poor results.  You are either going to have to cut the size of your space by 50% or more (10 sq ft or smaller) or get substantially more light. When you get your space the size it should be, I believe that you will find that the light will keep the space warm enough.  Run your vegging lights 24/7.

In addition, you will need an exhaust fan.  An exhaust fan is not an option, it is a must have, just like water and nutrients.  Do not buy an inexpensive duct booster fan as these will not work.  You will need a centrifuge type exhaust fan.  But that is not to say that you do not need the oscillating fan, you need both.  The oscillating fan should be in the tent.  You will need to be able to close this tent up to make it light-tight when you go to flowering.    

The temps should be read from the canopy level, not the soil level.

The pH of well water is less important than the ppms, as you will have to most likely adjust the pH of the nute solution anyway.  You will want to get your water tested to see how many dissolved solids it has in it--some well water is horrible and you need to use bottled water.  Do not try to use things like lemon juice to reduce pH.  There are several reasons for this, but the biggest is that it doesn't really work well.  Buy pH up and down intended for this purpose.  Do not get the stuff for spas or pools, but something for gardening.  I use this:  [ame]http://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-pH-Up-Down/dp/B005LWS5Q8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1424796892&sr=8-2&keywords=pH+up+down[/ame].  What are you planning on feeding them?


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## MacroMicro (Feb 24, 2015)

Thanks. I will reduce my grow space to half and plan 3 or 4 plants per cycle instead.  I didn't have an idea that the exhaust fan was so important.  Can you provide a link to a pic or ad for what you're talking about?  

I plan on feeding the Fox Farm trio with special attention to starting low strength and increasing slowly.


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## pcduck (Feb 25, 2015)

Link to the proper type of fans.
https://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/vortex-vtx-series-inline-blowers.html


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## Kraven (Feb 25, 2015)

Sounds like your getting on the right track :>)


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