# Yikes! White Powder On My Leaves



## hick.man (Apr 13, 2011)

hey all I noticed I have a white powder on my leaves. its some kinda mold I think. I thought I saw a article on it but cant seem to search it out on here. im about 6 weeks into flower. and now im in a panic on what to do. any suggestions? 

thanks


----------



## fruity86 (Apr 13, 2011)

look up powder mildew that what it sound's like you have pic's would help


----------



## OGKushman (Apr 13, 2011)

well, there is not much you can do now. lower RH, raise temps to 100 for an hour or so, light some matches and get better ventilation. That b ur problem...not enough air circulation. Sorry to hear - PM sucks a fatty


Spray Eagle 20 one time in veg...never see it again


----------



## Gixxerman420 (Apr 13, 2011)

Sounds like mildew to me too dude! Pictures would be mighty helpful in diagnostics though!


----------



## dman1234 (Apr 13, 2011)

at 6 weeks you cant do much, be prepared, any clones you have will prob also have it, and your room will too, if you have clones and they look good, dont trust that, it will show eventually, JMO

you need to look into Sulphur burners before your next grow.


----------



## ArtVandolay (Apr 13, 2011)

Another hick?  Don't we have enough hicks here?  I'm away a couple of weeks and the place is overrun with hicks :hubba:

PS.  No offence, hick.  I meant that other hick :hubba:  He knows who he is.  And, unfortunately, so do we :rofl:


----------



## dman1234 (Apr 13, 2011)

:rofl:                     Arts back.                       :welcome:


----------



## OGKushman (Apr 13, 2011)

get ur tinfoil hats


----------



## shuggy4105 (Apr 14, 2011)

Before doing anything too drastic, post some pics so we can have a look. 
Maybe residue from tap-water spray etc, just to state the simplist example of what 'could' be the problem.


----------



## The New Girl (Apr 19, 2011)

Pics are good but it's 99% the obvious... Why not just tell him the fix? It's powerdy mildew, treat it plain and simple... baking soda and water....
spray with straight water first, this way the stomata (leaf pores) don't take in the baking soda water too much. Spray them  with the soda/water and then rinse them in plain water again. Repeat if needed, that simple !!! 

Tablespoon of baking soda to a quart spray bottle is fine... oh and generally you get this from a high humidity... keep it below 70%, I like 60% in veg and 50% in flower... but that's just me IMHO...


----------



## kiksroks (Apr 30, 2011)

The New Girl said:
			
		

> Pics are good but it's 99% the obvious... Why not just tell him the fix? It's powerdy mildew, treat it plain and simple... baking soda and water....
> spray with straight water first, this way the stomata (leaf pores) don't take in the baking soda water too much. Spray them  with the soda/water and then rinse them in plain water again. Repeat if needed, that simple !!!
> 
> Tablespoon of baking soda to a quart spray bottle is fine... oh and generally you get this from a high humidity... keep it below 70%, I like 60% in veg and 50% in flower... but that's just me IMHO...



Thank you, for this!:aok:


----------



## rotten_socks420 (Apr 30, 2011)

Sweet because I think i have this same problem, was gunna ask DMAN if he could loan me his sulphur burner hahaha


----------



## dman1234 (Apr 30, 2011)

The New Girl said:
			
		

> Pics are good but it's 99% the obvious... Why not just tell him the fix? It's powerdy mildew, treat it plain and simple... baking soda and water....
> spray with straight water first, this way the stomata (leaf pores) don't take in the baking soda water too much. Spray them with the soda/water and then rinse them in plain water again. Repeat if needed, that simple !!!
> 
> Tablespoon of baking soda to a quart spray bottle is fine... oh and generally you get this from a high humidity... keep it below 70%, I like 60% in veg and 50% in flower... but that's just me IMHO...


 
ok plain and simple, do as listed above and the PM will return at the worst time, later in flower,you wont be able to spray again then, get a sulphur burner and say good bye to PM forever. JMO


----------



## Roddy (Apr 30, 2011)

Great info dman, that wouldn't be a good thing!!!


----------



## OGKushman (Apr 30, 2011)

i burn matches, books of martches once to twice a week. also EAGLE 20 one time at the switch.

PM *ERIADICATED*. 

sulphur burner wont kill it totally if its a big prob. Eagle 20 eradicates it and sulphur burns now and then as preventative. Trust, ive dealt with it a lot in socal, lots of friends get it, i _had_ it.


----------



## EsC420PoT (Apr 30, 2011)

burn matches? iv never heard of this, what does it do exactly? Itwould seem to me that i'd want anything but match smoke in my grow room lol.


----------



## Roddy (Apr 30, 2011)

Match burns are sulpher......


----------



## EsC420PoT (Apr 30, 2011)

oh der lol


----------



## rej924 (May 2, 2011)

The New Girl said:
			
		

> Pics are good but it's 99% the obvious... Why not just tell him the fix? It's powerdy mildew, treat it plain and simple... baking soda and water....
> spray with straight water first, this way the stomata (leaf pores) don't take in the baking soda water too much. Spray them with the soda/water and then rinse them in plain water again. Repeat if needed, that simple !!!
> 
> Tablespoon of baking soda to a quart spray bottle is fine... oh and generally you get this from a high humidity... keep it below 70%, I like 60% in veg and 50% in flower... but that's just me IMHO...


 

Is it ok to do this to flowering plants????


----------



## Hick (May 3, 2011)

spraying 'anything' during flower, 'can' promote mold/rot.
  A sulphur burn is your best option.


----------



## rej924 (May 3, 2011)

Hick said:
			
		

> spraying 'anything' during flower, 'can' promote mold/rot.
> A sulphur burn is your best option.


 
I do have a burner.... How will this effect the already budding plants? Is their any method you recommend?


----------



## Hick (May 3, 2011)

I think maybe mainharvest(?) has a lot more experience burning than I do. Hope he will chime in 
   "I"..burn w/ lights off, and for 30 minutes or so. Then allow the lights to remain off for a few hours. It does, will leave a slight residue on your budding plants, which "might" reflect in the flavor at harvest. 
 I have only burned "prior" to onset of 12/12.


----------



## skillzmtc313 (May 20, 2011)

All you have to do is mix half cup peroxide 3% with two quarts water and treat leaves until gone with spray bottle..... problem solved. Peroxide is a must in any garden for watering as well it releases oxygen to the roots but be careful what percentage peroxide you use whether its 3% or 35% get the chart for mixing at gardeningwithhydrogenperoxide.com


----------



## skillzmtc313 (May 20, 2011)

Peroxide also prevents mold and bud rot FYI for all the amatuers out there


----------



## dman1234 (May 20, 2011)

skillzmtc313 said:
			
		

> All you have to do is mix half cup peroxide 3% with two quarts water and treat leaves until gone with spray bottle..... problem solved. Peroxide is a must in any garden for watering as well it releases oxygen to the roots but be careful what percentage peroxide you use whether its 3% or 35% get the chart for mixing at gardeningwithhydrogenperoxide.com


 
A temporary fix at best, spraying PM can easily add to the issue, if you have it a sulphur burner is the best fix. IMO


----------



## rej924 (May 23, 2011)

dman1234 said:
			
		

> A temporary fix at best, spraying PM can easily add to the issue, if you have it a sulphur burner is the best fix. IMO


 
Thank you all for your time and help. Will the sulpher effect the taste or the buds? If i do use the burner, how long should i wait till harvesting to keep the effects on taste to a min.


----------



## dman1234 (May 23, 2011)

it wont affect the taste if you dont use it after week 3 or 4 of flowering imo.


----------



## rej924 (May 23, 2011)

dman1234 said:
			
		

> it wont affect the taste if you dont use it after week 3 or 4 of flowering imo.


 
I am almost ready to harvest. If the burner will leave a bad taste, what should i use then. I am about 3-4 weeks into flowering.


----------



## dman1234 (May 23, 2011)

if your 3-4 weeks into flower than you have 4-5 week until harvest, you can burn if your 3-4 weeks into flower.


----------



## rej924 (May 23, 2011)

dman1234 said:
			
		

> if your 3-4 weeks into flower than you have 4-5 week until harvest, you can burn if your 3-4 weeks into flower.


 
Ok 
How bad will it effect the taste?
How long after treatment should i wait till i harvest?


----------



## dman1234 (May 23, 2011)

most if not all strains need a minimum of 8 weeks to flower many need more than 8 weeks.

if your going to do a burn do it no later than week 4 of flower and then harvest when they are ready, if you burn by week 4 than you will have atleast 4-5 weeks of flower after the burn and you will not taste the sulphur at all.


----------



## BudLover#69 (May 23, 2011)

Don't Spray the buds!,,   If it is only a few leaves then just pick them off! Get a Fan in your grow room and some Fresh Dry Air Blowing.  Keep the Humidity Down, Don't over water or let any water stand.  Potasium-bicarbonate is best but I just Sodium-bicarbonate (baking Soda) with water Not Too Much works! only spray leaves and not your buds,  If it is on your top leaves then you have a Grow room problem, that needs to fixed fast! AIR flow and Ventalation is key!!  Good Luck  and Yes that stuff is Bad get it under control now.


----------



## dman1234 (May 23, 2011)

Just my opinion but if you want to spray for pm then get use to it,you will be spray regularly, if you want to end pm for good burn sulphur and say goodbye to it.


----------



## BudLover#69 (May 23, 2011)

dman1234 said:
			
		

> Just my opinion but if you want to spray for pm then get use to it,you will be spray regularly, if you want to end pm for good burn sulphur and say goodbye to it.


 
I have never did that way!  But hey if it works  then Cool!!!   Once I got my Air Moving/Changing out NEVER had a prob since.  Good Luck!


----------



## jbyrd (May 25, 2011)

Some good info on this thread 

I have some tips as well  

Almost everything mentioned here will help you 'control' PM...The suggestions for controlling in the later stages (Peroxide, Baking Soda) all good, just not directly on your buds.  Keep culling affected leaves and spot treating until you get through flower, that's about all you can ethically do.  Don't be a douchebag and treat your buds with chemicals and give them to other people to smoke...

When I've had to deal with PM in the past, this is what works for me.

1. Finish your current flower run...try to save what you can by using the leaf culling method and spot treatment.  You can even use greencure up through flower, just NOT ON YOUR BUDS...stem and leaf only.

2. Scrub your room....and I mean scrub...bleach wash your walls and all surfaces in your room. Make it Surgically clean. Cleanliness is next to Godliness...LOL

Here's where I might take some criticism....I'm a new guy here...second post and all and I have a difference of opinion on the use of sulfur burners, etc.  They all work to control PM...which means...you will ALWAYS be controlling PM. I did the same thing, for almost two years...cleaned, burned sulfur, sprayed greencure and other hydro shop PM remedies, all the organic methods, etc.  They all work fine for 'control'.  

Ok - moving on

3.  Get your environment under control.  If you do NOT want issues in your grow room, you need to make the room a 'real' grow room and spend the cash to buy the items needed to control your environment. Dehum, A/C, Ventilation, Circulation are all critical to maintaining an optimum grow environment.  If you can't control this, you will always be fighting something and not growing to your potential.

4. Clean your room....yeah, I said it...but it warrants saying it again.  Your grow room should be kept clean, not like a teenagers bedroom 

5. Use a systemic product for treatment.  You can use Eagle 20, I prefer Immunox, made by Spectricide. It contains the same active ingredient as Eagle 20 (myclobutanil) and costs less (about 13$).  Treat your plants with the recommended dosage.

6. Clean your room

That's it...your done.  No continued burning of sulfur, treating with Greencure or whatever PM spray floats your boat.  This is a one time deal.  I live in the Santa Barbara, CA. area and PM runs rampant...and it did in my room until I did the above.  I have not seen it since from my plants, It was coming out in cuts, cuts of those cuts, etc...I've been running a couple of strains for over 9 years now and those treasured mom's had it.  It has not come back in those either.  I've completed over 6 runs since I used it and it has not been back...period.

I know everyone tells you there is no cure, your stuck with it once it's systemic. Well, Immunox is systemic with a half-life of 24 days. It will kill the PM systemically and it will NOT come back unless you bring something in or have not...cleaned your room like momma told you..lol.

I hope this helps some people...a friend of mine from the NorCal area told me about Immunox after watching me struggle on another board with PM for quite some time. I'm glad he did.

Finally...don't use it in flower...duh..lol. You can use up to the flip, maybe week 1 or 2 but I wouldn't go beyond that.


----------



## dman1234 (May 25, 2011)

It may be your second post but im pretty sure you have typed more than i have in almost 1500 posts LOL.

Good info.


----------



## jbyrd (May 25, 2011)

lmfao..I have a tendency to do that   Thanks man


----------



## Wetdog (May 26, 2011)

rej924 said:
			
		

> I am almost ready to harvest. If the burner will leave a bad taste, what should i use then. I am about 3-4 weeks into flowering.



:rofl:  @ 3-4 weeks in, you are a LOOONG way from harvest. 

*I* have done a burn a little over 2 weeks from harvest with no bad taste, but that is still closer than I would like to be.

One member here did a burn 1 week from chop and reported no bad taste, but that's really cutting it close. 

But, with PM/Mold, you do what you have to do, or risk losing everything, or having un smokeable bud.

If you have a burner, use it, and use it soon.

Wet


----------



## indtune (Nov 26, 2012)

There is a product out called PM WASH, makers of MIGHTY WASH. Use PM WASH first, really rinsing your plants. Then use MIGHTY WASH to rinse off any residual residue. MIGHTY WASH can be used even the day of harvest (sounds crazy, right?) and boasts it right on the bottle. It leaves no residue behind in your product. Smells decent too. 
Obviously, rinsing your plants will raise the humidity level, so temps will have to come up and fans more vigorious. make sure your plants dry in a relatively quick amount of time to avoid too much humidity for too long. I've used it, works great. I would advise spraying in the "morning" before light gets too intense (don't want to burn your leaves...) or on an overcast day. (obviously I'm speaking of outdoor crops, indoors use your best judgement) A little spendy, but cheaper than loosing your whole crop.


----------

