# HID Lights and Timers



## Gaiant (Dec 27, 2014)

I read an interesting thread posted on another forum where it was stated not to rely on the manufactures wattage rating on sub par timers. He had two digital timers that lasted 2 years before burning up and made me realize how important it is too choose a safe and reliable timer to handle the startup draw and lamp restart times for HID lights and in case of power loss. 
I'm wondering if anyone has had similar timer malfunctions I'm thinking of buying the HID-2 timer.


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## pcduck (Dec 27, 2014)

I used those cheap ones before I got a Tork. Those cheapies would burn up after a few months.


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## Gaiant (Dec 27, 2014)

I'm relatively new to indoor grow the stuff I grew was outdoor years back. In my haste to get the grow going I bought a cheap digital timer. Running a 600 watt HID and exhaust fan but will add another 600 soon. The thread I read and the safety issues involved nailed it for me.


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## Gaiant (Dec 27, 2014)

I see Grainger sells Tork. Did you hardware it?


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## mrcane (Dec 28, 2014)

Hello I am also a newbie and will be setting up a room. will run lights on 220v and will need a good reliable timer... and Ballast.Trying to get all the ducks in a row before I start to build.


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## Dman1234 (Dec 28, 2014)

A few dollars are a small price to pay for safety and piece of mind.

Get a good timer and only run 80% of its max amperage. A 15 amp timer should not have more than 12 amps run through it. Jmo


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## mrcane (Dec 28, 2014)

I agree not to skimp on the electrical. Would a good ballast also help on the start up load?


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## Gaiant (Dec 28, 2014)

I came across these timers:

the Intermatic commercial 40 amp 120v timer (T101). It's only about $50.
There's also a T104 for 240v and a T104P double pole timer that operates two 40 amp 120v circuits (or a 240v split into two 120v) on one timer.


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## mrcane (Dec 28, 2014)

Looks like you can find them @H.D. Thanks for the info. Want to set it up as safe as possible.


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## 000StankDank000 (Dec 28, 2014)

The biggest thing people over look is safety. If you start getting into a lot of amp draw might want to put a self contain fire suppresser in your tent you have a fire it opens up and puts it out


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## lyfespan (Dec 28, 2014)

mrcane said:


> Hello I am also a newbie and will be setting up a room. will run lights on 220v and will need a good reliable timer... and Ballast.Trying to get all the ducks in a row before I start to build.



Save your money on the timers. Let's do this right, how many rooms, how many light runs, how many per run?

With 220v run to the lights, let's look at a contactor system for you. This will allow for a nice 110v timer to fire the 220v light systems.


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## lyfespan (Dec 28, 2014)

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230A-Pole-Contactor-Volt/dp/B003U7W3SM/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419811697&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Packard+C230B+2+Pole+30+Amp+Contactor+12+Volt+Coil+Contactor"]http://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230A-Pole-Contactor-Volt/dp/B003U7W3SM/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419811697&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Packard+C230B+2+Pole+30+Amp+Contactor+12+Volt+Coil+Contactor[/ame]

Cheapest multi light run controller system utilizing 1 of these per run, each contactor fired from a 24v sprinkler timer, this way you can dial each station for each run of lights. Get as elaborate with your sprink timer as you want, just remember you're target cost should be below other lighting controllers on the market.

Yes I'm a licensed electrician, and general contractor


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## mrcane (Dec 28, 2014)

I Have 2 ea 110v receptacles each with 20amp. breakers and one 220v line with 30 amp. on each leg. Going to run the 220 for light. 1000 watt Ballast. Maybe put fan on it also. My thought was more volts less amps = Less $$$ ?? NO??


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## lyfespan (Dec 28, 2014)

mrcane said:


> I Have 2 ea 110v receptacles each with 20amp. breakers and one 220v line with 30 amp. on each leg. Going to run the 220 for light. 1000 watt Ballast. Maybe put fan on it also. My thought was more volts less amps = Less $$$ ?? NO??



You are correct when you increase the voltage, you decrease the amps pulled 120v 1000 watt lights pull about 9-11 amps, while 220v pull 3.5-7 amps.

Sounds like you have all the power you need for using a lighting contactor, and a place 120v rec. to plug in your sprinkler timer.


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## mrcane (Dec 28, 2014)

What I have is a 3'x 5' space  has two 110v outlets Ea. with 20 amp. breakers and a 220v line with 30 amps on ea leg. My thoughts were to run the lights 1000 watt and maybe exhaust fan on the 220v. Is it not more volts = less amps = Less$$$ power??


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## lyfespan (Dec 28, 2014)

If you're only running one light you will need to change the breaker to a 15 or 20 amp, the wire size being bigger is fine, but if you run an over sized breaker, it will not trip until 30 amps is overloaded.


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## mrcane (Dec 28, 2014)

Thanks  Lyfespan looks like I repeated my self here :vap-Bong_smoker:


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## lyfespan (Dec 29, 2014)

mrcane said:


> Thanks  Lyfespan looks like I repeated my self here :vap-Bong_smoker:



I can give you a diagram to wire it all up as well if your interested in that type of system.


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## pcduck (Dec 29, 2014)

Gaiant said:


> I see Grainger sells Tork. Did you hardware it?



Yes I hardwired it. I also ran dedicated lines to both of my tents.


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## mrcane (Dec 29, 2014)

Ah I see said the blind man...  all you use the 110v timer for is to  pull in the contacts "No Load" Similar to motor controllers I have worked with in the past..


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## lyfespan (Dec 29, 2014)

mrcane said:


> Ah I see said the blind man...  all you use the 110v timer for is to  pull in the contacts "No Load" Similar to motor controllers I have worked with in the past..



Correct. 110v sprink timer sends the 24v to close the coil and turn the 220v on.


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