Replacing the floor under my toilet.. help?

[Dr. Green Fang]

Well, I'm no carpenter or plumber, but today I'm about to embark on the task of replacing a section of floor directly under my toilet. Had a leak, ruined the floor... toilet is sinking in.

To do this, I have to cut near the wall with a skill saw in 2 spots. I'm curious about that little bit of floor that'll stick out.. since I won't be able to get right up to the wall. I'm sure I'll be making sister beams, but I wasn't sure if they would stick out past the piece of floor that will be left.

Confusing? Yeah... it is to me!! lol Basically, I need to pull the toilet up, cut square section of floor, trying to leave room on the 2x4 that's there to get on with my new piece... and various other things, that I do have sorted out. It's the cutting the floor part that's confusing me.


Any thoughts, suggestions, tips, VIDEOS etc, that would help me with replacing a section of floor and / or redoing the toilet part? :confused2:


Thanks all. Hoping THG will pop in.. and soon!!!!

 

[orangesunshine]

Not sure exactly what your issue is but it sounds like you know what you're doing... you can buy cinder blocks for support of your flooring framing... don't forget to use pressure treated wood to prevent a rot and mold

 

[Dr. Green Fang]

Yeah, I'm not sure either lol! Been watching loads of videos.. now I'm stuck on "removing the flange and replacing my new one" .. hoping I can remove the flange without having to cut the pipe. :confused2:


lol.. what a process when you're such a noob, eh? :slapself:

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

Okay, here we go. Buy replacement flooring that is exactly the same as the existing flooring--same thickness, same material. Don't worry about trying to cut in the middle of the floor joists (which I hope are bigger than 2 x 4). Cut right next to the floor joists and then just marry a 2x4 to the existing joist to support the new piece of flooring. You will also need to have pieces of 2x4 that runs between the joists to support the other 2 edges of the new piece of flooring.

No, you cannot remove the old flange without cutting the pipe. What kind of material are you dealing with? Is it PVC, ABS, cast? That will determine how we deal with it. How large is the crawl space under your home?

 

[4u2sm0ke]

if ya dont want to cut the .."closet flange"..off they have a replacement one that goes over the old one...you will need to add underlayment...if you have to replace the subfloor than I recommend cutting the drain pipe around the 3 feet area after the 90* bend...than you can reuse this with the help of a coupling...Best of luck...and this be first time Ive seen someone ask for Help on subject.....maybe we need a section called..."Stoners remodeling projects"..:giggle:

:48:

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

Do you actually need to replace the flange? I am not a fan of repair flanges. They are given to leakage, are hard to seal, and you would have to build your entire bathroom floor up to accommodate it. I would also recommend cutting the pipe on the vertical if you can. There are several reasons for this, ease of installing the new flange is the major reason. How far is it from the top of the flange to the 90 degree bend? They make a tool that you may be able to rent (commonly called internal pipe cutters) that will cut plastic pipe from the inside. That way you can lift the flange and some of the pipe away, cut the floor out and prep the old pipe to receive the new flange, all without ever having to go into the crawl space. If you have cast pipe, things will be different.

 

[Dr. Green Fang]

Ok... sorry for late reply. I'm halfway into this now, and all is going "decent"

THG: I'm dealing with PVC.. I have 2x4 to work with, depth of saw will be set to cut 3/4.. I bought all the plywood, and went with 2x3's for my sister beams... no real "need" for 2x4 for a sister is the thought. This is in my trailer, where they used OSB (shake me freaking head) to floor the ENTIRE thing!!! I'm replacing with 3/4" plywood.

As for the flange... hahahahah... omg, I watched like 20 videos, and figured I'd be chipping away all day. It damn near came off with a few taps on the sides! It was an "over the pipe" flange setup, so I figured "heck I can get this off..." ... it came off clean as anything!! Cleaned it up, used primer then cement and got new one on. Normally you'd want the flooring in first, but the way my bathroom is setup, it's perfect just to cut in a "U" and drop the piece in. So I put the flange on.. er.. on my deck... because the pipe going down then over was just barely hanging on and came right out.. so I have to line that up as well, and prime / cement.

I think I'm past the point of not knowing what to do now.. I really appreciate your posts all!!! :aok:

Who says this is just a growing site?/! hah

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

LOL--that could have been part of your problem--flanges are NOT supposed to come off, regardless of the "amount of taps". If it was not glued on, it was most likely leaking. There are better ways to go about this, but if you are feeling comfortable with what you are doing, get to it.

 

[Dr. Green Fang]

Yeah I'm very good with what's going on so far. I just have to put the pipe back into the main line now with some primer/cemet, then put this plywood I cut to fit in, and screw down the flange.

Yeah, I knew it wasn't supposed to come off like that, and the odd part is... it wasn't leaking. Everything was dry and showed no signs of water. The reason the floor got screwed, was a leaking hot water line 3-way junction(plastic pipe). I've replaced 3 in this trailer so far! Used Shark Bite for all connections with fixing so far, by the way. Love that stuff. .it was made for meatheads like me hah

 

[N.E.wguy]

LOL--that could have been part of your problem--flanges are NOT supposed to come off, regardless of the "amount of taps". If it was not glued on, it was most likely leaking. There are better ways to go about this, but if you are feeling comfortable with what you are doing, get to it.

also sounds like it slipped on to the drain pipe rather then in to it ? that not norm is it?


2x3 u cheap save 99 cents 2x6 cheaper rip it up

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

also sounds like it slipped on to the drain pipe rather then in to it ? that not norm is it?


2x3 u cheap save 99 cents 2x6 cheaper rip it up

No, the closet flange is supposed to fit over the top of the pipe--that is the norm. No regulation drainage fitting fits inside the pipe, although I have seen 3" closet flanges glued inside 4" drainage lines, that is not the norm.

 

[N.E.wguy]

so just cast and rope would be an inside application/ i seen this is pvc after posting

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

Plumbing 101 :giggle:

No, the fitting still fits over the pipe. Old cast is generally bell and spigot, with the bell end of the fitting going over the pipe with oaken (rope stuff)and lead making the seal between the pipe and the fitting.

 

[mikeydean]

I was taught that the hot was on the left, cold on the right and poo won't run uphill less you pump it!!! Who said plumbing was hard?? :hubba:

 

[Dr. Green Fang]

Wooo hoooo! It's all done! Absolutely solid and no leaks!!

Everything was cleaned, primed and cemented, so this time it shouldn't just "slip" off. hah

I'm one happy person. I've never done an OUNCE of plumbing in my life, and run a skill saw only about 20 times or so.

 

[N.E.wguy]

i know wood and enough to use subs good to know tho

also i know to call a plumber rather then try to use drain cleaner if a shop vac can't un clog a sink or tub i call a plumber