My soil mix

[dc1994]

So my soil mix so far, is going to be 1/3 perlite, 1/3 vermeculite, 1/3 peat moss. Thats just the base mix, but i still need help on what nutrients to add. Im a first time grower, so any help is appreciated.

 

[jmansweed]

Organic? or chem? Do you want to add weekly solubles or pre-mixed in the medium? I use pretty much your base (w/ dolomite and very little verm) but add the weekly, organic solubles.

 

[dc1994]

Organic? or chem? Do you want to add weekly solubles or pre-mixed in the medium? I use pretty much your base (w/ dolomite and very little verm) but add the weekly, organic solubles.

im going for a mixture of chem and organic. and i think by weekly solubles or premixed, you mean do i want to add it all in the beggining or through out the grow. (correct me if im wrong) but if that is what you mean, then im going to do it through out the grow. and like i said, mix of chem and organic

 

[Droopy Dog]

Organic? or chem? Do you want to add weekly solubles or pre-mixed in the medium? I use pretty much your base (w/ dolomite and very little verm) but add the weekly, organic solubles.

I also use pretty much the same along with the dolomite (lots), and no verm.

I do add slow release organics into the medium but also add the weekly soluble organics as needed.

DD

 

[jmansweed]

Mixing most chem fert. with orgainics can be counter productive. There are synthetic fertilizers that work with orgainics but frequently the "chem" side effects can be determental to your microbial life. IMHO it's worth doing one or the other. Adhering to organic methods can really pay off.

In saying all that I also have had some high quality chem grows. I rarely mix the two - other than some synthetic silicon early in the process - and usually not even that.

Adding solubles is a great method and can give you a little more control over the process (as opposed to in-soil nutes which are there to stay for the grow). Both methods are extremely effective and typically forgiving. The added "Flour Dolomite" can be seriously beneficial - best of luck

 

[HippyInEngland]

Peat is acidic and will cause you problems.

eace:

 

[jmansweed]

I agree peat is acidic but it's perfectly managable. I havn't had problems.

 

[HippyInEngland]

Yet.

eace:

 

[jmansweed]

Yet? Evrey one has issues here and there. Thats an unavoidable issue I think. Your recommendation Hippy?

 

[HippyInEngland]

Peat is very acidic, if you can avoid using it, then avoid it.

Peat needs buffers, non peat soils need no buffers.

Peat is just a growing medium like all growing mediums, so why choose something MJ does not like and rely on a buffer that you cannot contol.

Its yours and everyones choice, pick as you wish.

Its your call.

eace:

 

[jmansweed]

Hippy, my MJ loves peat, it actually loves acidic conditions -(you know that). I absolutely value your opinion here and feel the explaination is more for the newbies.

Dolomite is more than a buffer. It clearly has nutritional value and is more beneficial than simply an additive. (Calcium and magnesium for example). Many companies use peat and even the more pH swinging Coco. Many - many companies. In fact it is one of the most popular growing mediums available. For good reason. Adding items to your peat enhances the medium in my opinion. It's not determential. There are very few medium all encompassing. Adding ingrediants are usually imperative.........

 

[HippyInEngland]

The poster (Hi DC ) these are the kinds of debates that make this forum so great, no angry words but just thoughts mingling with thoughts.

The poster is thinking of going to use 1/3 peat with 1/3 perlite and 1/3 Vermiculite.

Are you saying this is a good idea?

eace:

 

[jmansweed]

I think DC's ideas for the medium on are the right track. As many of us know, developing a workable medium takes time and transition. This grow, the mix may prove insufficient in certain respects. Maybe it will stay to moist? or dry to fast. Perhaps, as you mentioned it could be too acidic. All these things need consideration and are based primarily on grower and/or strain preferences, methods and environment.

Dc - I would lower overall verm. Peat can absorb more water than giving credit IMO. It also can bloom with microbes. Perlite is a fantastic additive and rarely can be over done. 1/3 is a solid number to start. For organic, dry additives - I use Rainbow Mix Bloom and Grow. You may want to go with a nice pre-mixed soil. Fox Farm Ocean Forest or Flower Power(if avaialble) mixed 50/50 with the above mentioned mix. No matter your choice some additives may be needed in flowering.

 

[Droopy Dog]

Hippy, my MJ loves peat, it actually loves acidic conditions -(you know that). I absolutely value your opinion here and feel the explaination is more for the newbies.

Dolomite is more than a buffer. It clearly has nutritional value and is more beneficial than simply an additive. (Calcium and magnesium for example). Many companies use peat and even the more pH swinging Coco. Many - many companies. In fact it is one of the most popular growing mediums available. For good reason. Adding items to your peat enhances the medium in my opinion. It's not determential. There are very few medium all encompassing. Adding ingrediants are usually imperative.........

:yeahthat:

I've been my own peat based mix for close to 40 years, shown to me by another grower. At the time I started I was mainly into ferns and a peat based mix was necessary just because it was so acidic. The original mix was peat moss, perlite, and pine bark nuggets, about as acidic as you can get.:holysheep: The other grower was a fern grower BTW.

The first time I tried this with MJ, you can guess the results. Mentioned this to a buddy who was more experienced than me and he told me to add a shovel or 2 of 'screenings' when I mixed up another batch.

'Screenings' was from the first 'screen' at concrete plants, about the size of fine perlite. Screens got progressivly larger for different aggregates for concrete. Cost was ~$20 for a dump truck load and many used it to spread over lawns and such. Very common in SoFla.

Worked like a champ, but I didn't know why.

Later, I found out that screenings and about all of the crushed rock in SoFla comes from oolitic limestone, pretty much the 'bedrock' of that end of the state.

Not sure how oolitic lime compares to dolomitic lime, but once I started using it life got much easier as far as growing mj was concerned.

Using dolomitic lime now since I moved, but still working out amounts per wheelbarrow amount of mix.

DD

 

[jmansweed]

oolitic lime? I'll have to check that out. Thanks DD.

just found this in fact

hXXp://www.fshs.org/Proceedings/Password Protected/1961 Vol. 74/343-345 (COLBURN).pdf

 

[Droopy Dog]

The poster (Hi DC ) these are the kinds of debates that make this forum so great, no angry words but just thoughts mingling with thoughts.

The poster is thinking of going to use 1/3 peat with 1/3 perlite and 1/3 Vermiculite.

Are you saying this is a good idea?

eace:

Again, I'm strongly with jman or, at least we do our mixes very similar.

Myself, personally, I would 86 the vermiculite. It retains too much water, compacts too easily and generally is a pain in the tookus.

Big yes on the 30% perlite if not more.

I don't measure too much, but go by sight and feel of the mix. My method, sort of:

In a wheelbarrow:
10 to 15 gallon pots of peat moss,~1/4 or slightly less of the wheelbarrows capacity.
Add: dolomitic lime till it affects the color of the peat moss. This would be say 4-6 cups of the lime. This is the stuff that has the consistancy of flour, very finely ground. The coarser stuff I used to use, I would toss 2 or 3 shovelfulls in.

You don't want the peat moss grey with lime, but close.

Then I add my meals, Bone, Kelp, blood and in decreasing quanities of each. I'm not all that fond of blood meal and just use it because I have it. Toss in a cup or 2 of epsom salts.

This is all still dry and keep mixing with a shovel. When it's well mixed ......

Dump in the perlite.:hubba: You WILL need water at this point because of the dust. I use my wifes watering can to wet it down a bit.

This is really a visual/feel thing. Mix the perlite in the mix and keep adding/mixing till you feel you have at least a 30% rate. Mine is probably closer to 40%, but this is all personal prefrence. If it looks like you have too much, it is just right.:hubba:

THEN ... after all this, I add my pine bark nuggets. Doesn't have to be pine bark as long as they are small, like the end of a finger. Could be fir, cypress, whatever. It's filler, adds a bit of weight, and breaks down during the grow.

By now, the wheelbarrow should be full. Moisten to just damp, put in a 30 gallon garbage can, let it 'cook' for several weeks, then go to town.

Correct whatever you missed on the next batch.

It's very much like cooking and correcting a recipe to fit your particular situation.

DD

 

[dc1994]

thanks you guys!

so from what ive been reading, i should drop the verm? What should i replace it with? and i think its a unanimous decision that i should add dolomite lime.

 

[dc1994]

anybody?

 

[Hick]

thanks you guys!

so from what ive been reading, i should drop the verm? What should i replace it with? and i think its a unanimous decision that i should add dolomite lime.

........:aok:
1 tblspn per gallon of medium

 

[jmansweed]

Dc, replace the verm with extra pearlite or some more peat. Hicks on point with the Dolomite.