MH/HPS..in same cool tube

[4u2sm0ke]

hello friends...Had my good buddy Ray JAy and his wifey over yesturday and we was talking about My Shed and how I allways upgrade in the summer..I have 2 flower room

1 @ 3x4x7...1k..HPS
1 @ 5X4x7...2k..HPS

Now what I want to do is add some MH in the flower room..yes I said room..I will have just 1 flower room 8x4x7...useing 2@ 1kHPS ..each tube will holdthe 1khps and 250MH...I think i can move the magul to center them both..Im hoping this will work..this will reduce the use of 2 reflectors and still be cooled????...I can and thaught of hanging the lights in room but not sure the heat...all sugestioned is greatly wanted

now I gotta find rivet tools

take care and be safe

 

[Hushpuppy]

If your exaust fan is pulling enough air then it should be pretty much a non-issue for you, as long as the tubes are long enough to hold both bulbs without them being too close as that might cause a heat issue between the bulbs. The one thing I think you will find is that having multiple sources of light within one flowering area so that you get cris-cross lighting will positively affect your buds. It will also allow you to do a double harvest if you want. We have discovered in the grow-lab that by allowing the lower buds to grow another 2 weeks after initial harvest (basically topping the plants down 1/3) really allows them to fill out to a whole new harvest for the investment of 2 weeks.

 

[4u2sm0ke]

thanks Hushpuppy...we do take the top half first...and with this light I moved the bulbs out...

hold both bulbs without them being too close

They touch...is this a bad thing?...if the exhaust pulls enough ?

thanks for reply:48:

 

[Hushpuppy]

That is a good question about the bulbs touching. It concerns me to have them touching because of the difference in the watts will have a difference in heat within the bulbs. I honestly don't know if that is an issue or not, given the air flow across them cooling them down. I would contact the manufacturer and ask them if there would be any issue.

I have seen dual bulb cooltubes on Ebay that are specifically set up with mogul bases on each end, and they are considerably longer to handle 2 bulbs. They are a bit pricey though.

 

[Menimeth]

I think your biggest problem with them touching, is any movement of the hood could cause the bulbs to rub against each other enough to cause the glass of the bulb to weaken over time. The question is, how much time will it take to cause the bulbs to crack, and will the bulbs have lasted long enough to need to be replaced anyway. Of course the glass could be hardened enough for this to not be a problem, depending on the manufacturer of the bulb, but I would think cheaper bulbs would not survive. JMHO

 

[4u2sm0ke]

thanks fpor replies

Hush...ive seen those 4 foot cooltubes and all most baught one a few years back..Ill look into it more

Menimeth...thanks for your input too...My buddy was wondering the same thing as if the bulbs was to rub togather may not be good...so ill work on making some space between the bulbs:aok:

 

[4u2sm0ke]

okay I moved the mogules out and is now ready for test...I have 1 inch between the bulbs...Ill hook it up outside today see how well they do:aok:

 

[Roddy]

Won't that get extra hot causing faster bulb failure? And hey, you power her up with that ride in the background?

Watching, hope she works for ya!

 

[4u2sm0ke]

that is the question at hand Roddy....ozzy thinks the smaller bulb will blow due to heat....and No I dont power by the Ride:giggle:

 

[ozzydiodude]

The places where the bulb is closest to the glass tube is going to cause hot spots on the bulbs making it, way more likely to break both the bulb and/or the tube from the heat. You really need a equal distance around the bulb for air movement.

The reason I say the smaller bulb will blow isthat it willl be recieving more radient energy from the 1000 watt bulbs inginator (center piece of the bulb the that transforms electity to radiation), this will cause the gases in the bulb to burn hotter and faster than they were designed too

 

[Roddy]

Any chance you can lengthen the tube a bit more, a few more inches might make all the difference.

 

[4u2sm0ke]

no cant make longer tube without purchaseing one...

ozzy...I centered the bulbs in the tube..they dont touch sides tube nor each other..this was as far as I could place them and still get the light..I thaught about the added heat and the smaller bulb not likeing it...what if I pulled cool air from the HPS side..allowing the heat from the 250MH to pass by the HPS?..Ray can place his hand right on his tubes because he pulls a lot of air through them...he says sounds like Aircraft takeing off:giggle:

 

[Hushpuppy]

I think that should work OK. Being that the bulbs are not side by side to each other, they shouldn't get as much radient heating. Yeah, pulling the air across the MH first would be better I think. I would think that if there is a problem with that, it will take a while for failure to occur as opposed to happening right away.

 

[PartyBro420]

I think as long as it's cooled well you'll be totally fine mate. The parts of the bulb closest together are the thickest portions of the glass in the bulb so they'll take a bit more heat. Hook that baby up to a good exhaust fan or even draw cool air in through it at a good rate and you'll be right as rain!

 

[4u2sm0ke]

this works just fine...I fired it up yesturday for a few hrs...no issues in that time...My concern is that I may need a larger cfm than the 440 I have...

what ya think I should do...I want to run 2 of these in the flower room..

1...use cfm for each cooltube

2....use 1 huge cfm to cool both light fixtures

Ill be working in the SHed today and will have better idea of what I can do..all replys welcome

 

[ozzydiodude]

I''m glad it works ok!!

Go with one for each cool tube that way if one goes out you ad least have a back up pulling air and heat out til you find it and can replace it.

 

[4u2sm0ke]

thanks ozzy...i was thinking same thing as I am not sure how the 250mh will do becasue I would want the mh in the middle so more heat would/can be issue...off to ebay:bolt:

 

[pcduck]

My concern is that I may need a larger cfm than the 440 I have...

I run two 600 hps in parallel with my 6"vortex through a carbon filter.
The tent walls still gets sucked in and the inside the tent is only about 6-8 deg. warmer then the outside air. Able to be in the mid 70's when drawing in high 60's.

Oh and I forgot. I also run insulated duct work from the lights until it exits to the outside. This really helps in keeping the temps down, plus noise.

 

[4u2sm0ke]

so you run the 600 side by side duck?...how many bends in duct?...Im wanting a straight B-Line heres what I have...

9 feet long flower room...next to in is the vegging area thats 4 feet...on the side of that is outside...I would like to have the lights in a straight line..only flex pipe would be at the ends...Thinking If I had a larger CFM maybe that would save the 250mh bulb???...Do you use any booster fans? if this cfm is to be at the end of the room...do I not want an inline say in the veg area helping bring cooler air?..Still lots questions...thanks
:48:

 

[pcduck]

I have CF on top then to a wye then to lights. Through the lights to another wye then fan to outside. The flex duct has different amount of bends depending on height of lights. after coming through tent there are 2 elbows then a wye then my fan, goes through fan and right now there is a big sweeping bend to an elbow that leads outside. In winter this sweeping elbow is eliminated. I do use quite a bit of flex duct also, maybe I will do a make-over once I have time, but for right now it is working great. I would imagine with the double runs I have I am in the 15'-20' range of amount used.

My intake I have a diy inline fan that I use when it starts getting hot outside. On nights when it is in the low to mid 60's I do not need to use this fan.