good setup hi temp ???????

[dman1234]

hello,

I have been using 400 watt, i recently added a new flower room with a 600 watt 6inch cooltube, its in a room 4ft by 3 ft with a 6inch 440 cfm vortex pulling through the cool tube I haven't added any plants yet and on test run my temp is at 92---outside the room its 79
i know why i think.......

its because my frexh air intake is only 4 inches.
the room is close to air tight, so how big should my intake be ??

 

[dman1234]

anyone

 

[Budders Keeper]

If it's not already there, pulling exhaust out of very top of room and intake from bottom could take several degrees off. I can't help ya on intake size as I just let the gap at the bottom of the door+non air tight room take care of that.

 

[dman1234]

so mybe i should put a Y on my vortex and also draw air from the top of the room aswell as cool tube??????

 

[thc is good for me]

where is the air from your cooltube going. Do you have air cominng in aswell. I have the same problem with heat in my room i wnant to get a cool tube soon

 

[dman1234]

the air from cooltube is going out the window, i have a 4 inch flexable duct for air to enter the room, the open end of cooltube is drawing from within the room

 

[HippyInEngland]

Hello Dman1234

i have a 4 inch flexable duct for air to enter the room

Is this flexible duct bringing air from another room?

If so, what is the temperature of that room?

Has your intake got a fan helping the intake of air?

eace:

 

[dman1234]

hi Hie,
my intake is tacked to my window sill so it should get fresh air, no fan on intake, shouldnt be needed with a 440 cfm exhaust.

 

[dman1234]

ok im getting a little upset, 260 dollars for a fan and my new room is still at 90, i put a 6 inch intake on and it hasnt changed, any ideas anyone???¿¿¿

 

[StoneyBud]

Hey dman, here's some standards in the HVAC service industry for duct sizing to cfm exhausts:

4" Duct 40 cfm
5" duct 60 cfm
6" duct 100 cfm
7" duct 150 cfm
8" duct 200 cfm
9" duct 300 cfm
10" duct 400 cfm
12" duct 600 cfm
14" duct 900 cfm
16" duct 1,400 cfm
18" duct 1,800 cfm
20" duct 2,300 cfm.

I would advise you to use at least a 12" passive intake for the size exhaust fan you're driving.

A 14" would give you some insurance. If you installed an air-return vent that is at least 144 sq inches, it would give you much better air supply and almost for sure lower your temps. The vent should be mounted as low as possible and as far from the exhaust fan intake as possible.

The intake you have now is restricting your fans output.

 

[dman1234]

Thank you stoney

i suspected intake was y issue but i thoubht going from 4 to 6 inch would do it, apparently not, not even close,

when you say 144 inchs does this mean i can use the square ducting say 12x12???? that would give me 144??????

 

[stevetosh]

Its hard to add more, my only comment dont forget Humidity it is vital.
ood luck with your grow deman.

 

[StoneyBud]

Thank you stoney

i suspected intake was y issue but i thoubht going from 4 to 6 inch would do it, apparently not, not even close,

when you say 144 inchs does this mean i can use the square ducting say 12x12???? that would give me 144??????

Yes, but as I said, I'd go with even larger to put a little insurance to it. That way, your exhaust fan would run wide open with little resistance.

That *should* bring your temps down.

 

[stevetosh]

again I agree with stoney, in this case more is better.

 

[meds4me]

Yes, but as I said, I'd go with even larger to put a little insurance to it. That way, your exhaust fan would run wide open with little resistance.

That *should* bring your temps down.

Agreed, also adjust the timer settings to bring on the fan sooner ( more exchange).

 

[stillsmokin43]

without the extra cutting and all a small intake fan will solve your problems with heat one little fan can make a world of difference good luck

 

[dirtyolsouth]

I'm sure that larger duct and a matching fan would help but I can't figure out why your system isn't working better. Is your intake at the window separate at all from your exhaust? I appreciate the specs that Stoneybud posted but a 630cfm fan will pull more air than a 440cfm does through 6" duct work so maybe a higher output fan would help. Is the exhaust duct a flexible duct that has lots of curves and turns on it's way to the window? I've found that rigid duct moves air much more efficiently than flexible dryer hose style ductwork and turns and sagging in flex duct really slows things down. When I was limited to 4" size duct at previous grow locations I found that PCV does an amazing job at moving air for long runs and PVC has lots of adaptors for angles and elbows available. The 6" variety is a bit harder to hunt down but I'm sure that would work great too. It's a bit heavy to work with compared with aluminum duct but it's so smooth that air really moves easily and efficiently through the stuff.

I bloom with a 1K Quantum digital switchable ballast with either a dual arc or a hps bulb in a 2 x 4 x 8 closet. I use a 630cfm Eclipse inline fan with 6" rigid duct work and I have a reflector with a 6" cool tube built into it and a 40 lb carbon filter. The carbon filter is first in my ventilation chain and is connected to one side of my cool tube with a 14" piece of rigid 6" duct making a gentle elbow angle. The other side of the cool tube goes through a metal 6 inch, 90º elbow connector and then up a 6 ft section of rigid duct and through a 6" hole the ceiling in my closet. This duct is connected to my Eclipse inline fan which is hanging in the attic on rubber straps to keep down noise and vibration. I have a 4" passive intake and when the Eclipse fan is on it pulls air from the intake as well as under and around the door to cool the closet. The amount of suction on the closet door is amazing, even with a 4" hole in the wall for an intake.

On average, I've found that the closet stays 4-6º warmer than the bedroom it is in. Every once in a while when it's very hot and sticky outside there seems to be a 'tipping point' with my a/c unit and if it gets above 80º in the closet I'll have to dim or shut down the light for a bit to gain the upper hand in the heat battle and cool things down for a new starting point. I've got a dimmable Quantum 1K digital ballast and when it's too hot - around 100º and humid - I have to run my light at 750w and I can drop it to 500w if it still gets too warm. The flexibility with this ballast is amazing and it's like having six ballasts in one. You can run hps or mh bulbs at either 100% (1K), 75% (750w), or 50% (500w). In the summer I have to run a window a/c unit to keep temps around 70º in the bedroom which translates to around 75º in the bloom closet and the rest of the year the fan does all the work. I never smell a thing in my house either. The negative pressure keeps airflow going toward that bedroom from the rest of the house and dank odors never flow out of the closet at all and they go up through my carbon srubber before exhausting into the attic. In the summer I have to run the fan at 100% when the lights are on but in cooler temps I can back off to around 70% when the lights are on with a Speedster voltage controller. I can back the fan off to around 30% during the dark period and it's enough to maintain negative pressure to keep any odor from building up and it also makes my grow silent from 8am til 8pm which is great for stealth.

I hope this helps to give you some ideas on how to cool your space. Good Luck!

Peace!