could it be the end?

[1timer]

well I have a thread going in the grow journals but as it doesnt get much viewing I thought it would be better here.

I am getting yellowing of the fan leaves and they are dying off. I have been reading alot but I guess only experience will help.

soil=cocoblend black gold with recent soil ph tests approx 6.7

plants= clone unknown strain

nutes= fox farm trio pack at 1/2 dossage instructions of package

water=distilled from store with unknown ph

water cycle= everyother day about 16oz

Light cycle= 12/12 for 15days

temps= low 70's on floor to about 90 at top of cabinet(above the light)

pics should explain the rest.

 

[Kupunakane]

Hey there 1Time,
I don't know if this will end up helping you, I borrowed it for a little. LOL

[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]CHEMICAL BURNS
Plants suffer from chemical burns due to overfeeding. A plant with a chemical burn can be likened to a half-smoked joint. At the tip of the joint you have a shriveled gray ash. In the middle you see the burn creeping towards new paper, leaving a burn pattern behind it. At the end, there is the part you have not smoked yet. A plant chemical burn looks similar, and the leaf will tend to curl down and inwards into a claw shape at the tips.

The plant has a vascular system that takes in water and food and distributes these elements first to the bottom fan leaves, then upwards to the rest of the plant. This process takes time. You will notice that the damage from chemical burns also starts on the tips of the fan leaves, then slowly moves towards the center and up the plant, leaving behind crispy matter that flakes away between your fingers. This is a chemical burn.

The main cause of a chemical burn is overfeeding that can occur if you use soil that contains high ratios of nutrients, if you use strong feeding mixtures or if you feed your plants too often.
. If you cannot find a solution to what appears to be a chemical burn then check your medium's pH level. pH problems can sometimes resemble chemical burns or even nutrient deficiencies.[/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]NUTRIENT DEFICIENCIES
A nutrient deficiency looks like a cell collapse (the natural appearance of the firm leaves lose some or all of their stiffness), usually along with some form of discoloration and or wilting.The affected part may wither and die, but it should not look like chemical burn. That is the major difference between a chemical burn and a nutrient problem. In time, you should be able to easily tell the difference yourself. If you suspect a nutrient deficiency be sure to check your pH. If your pH is not right, then solve the pH problem before you attempt anything else.

10 Steps to Saving Your Grow
Here is a quick step-by-step approach to troubleshooting problems with your
grow.

STEP 1: Examine your plant, looking first for the presence of insects or disease. When you have completed this search, eliminate any pests or disease.
Also note the type of attack to make sure that your bug problem isn't really a nutrient problem. The two can be confused. Are there any black dots on them, which would indicate bugs? Do your leaves look discolored, dry and limp as if something has been ******* their fluids from them? This could be a nutrient disorder but pest attack can do this as well.
Nutrient problems damage the plant on a more consistent level than pest attacks, meaning that the damaged areas are not as sporadic as a pest attack. Nutrient disorders tend to be more linear — either affecting the bottom leaves moving upwards, or the top leaves moving downwards. The disorder should be somewhat regular unless the pest attack has managed to occur over the entire plant. This is why it is important for you, the grower, to check on your plants regularly so that you can identify problems sooner rather than later. This is essential to do because a problem left untreated is a problem that becomes increasingly more difficult to identify.
In short, pest damage is sporadic, random and often concentrated on a single area of the plants before moving onto another. Nutrient disorders are more regular and affect the plant in a linear movement running either from bottom to top or top to bottom.[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]STEP 2: If your plant is in the vegetative growth stage and the leaves are turning yellow at the base and this is moving slowly up the plant without upwards leaf curl then you need more nitrogen (l\l). If your plant is in the flowering stage and shows signs of stunted or slow growth, yellow leaves and it looks to be dying then you also need more l\l. Nitrogen problems also cause the stems to become soft and the leaves become a pale green color. Normally nitrogen problems occur with older leaf growth first. Severe nitrogen problems result in stunted growth and eventually plant death.
If your plant is in the flowering stage and looks red or dark green/yellow then you need to treat it with more phosphorus (P). Phosphorus deficiencies also result in stunted root development. Stems can become either very rigid or very weak depending on the strain. [/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif] If you still experience problems, go to Step3.[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]

STEP 3: If your plant's leaves are curling up, twisting and turning yellow then check to see if your light is burning them or if the grow chamber has enough air circulation. This is usually the result of heat stress.
If these are not the cause of the problem then you need to consider adding more magnesium (Mg) to your medium. Epsom salts are good for this. Prepare a mixture of 1/4 to 1/3 tablespoon of Epsom salts to three gallons of water and water your plant with this mixture.
Magnesium problems generally start with old leaves first and show signs of yellowing between the veins of the leaf moving outwards. The leaves curl upwards, hence the term 'praying for magnesium'. Necrosis is the eventual result of Mg problems. Although a plant can still grow to full maturity with Mg deficiency it certainly results in below average results.
If you still experience problems, go to Step 4.

STEP 4: If the tips of the leaves turn brown and curl slightly then you have a
potassium (K) problem. Solve this by adding more K to your plants.
Potassium problems also result in red/purple stems although this can be a genetic trait in the plant or due to a cold growing environment. [/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Potassium problems normally affect new growth first, before moving on to the older leaves. A potassium deficiency will also eventually affect the stems causing them to become either soft or brittle depending on the strain. In severe cases the plant will eventually die.
If this does not solve your problem, move onto Step 5.

[/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]
[/FONT]

 

[Kupunakane]

[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif] STEP 5: Does your plant look wilted? Are the leaves drooping or curling down? This could be root rot or a watering problem, which sometimes can cause nutrient-like deficiencies to appear on the plant.
If this does not solve you problem go to Step 6.

STEP 6: If the veins are green but the leaves are yellow, this indicates an iron problem (Fe). Iron problems generally occur at new growth regions, which eventually turn necrotic and die. Add more iron to solve this problem. Although iron is not essential to plant growth you will certainly end up with less than average results if it is lacking. Iron problems do not tend to cause leaf curl at the start but as the necrosis spreads leaves may curl.
If this does not solve your problem then move on to Step 7.[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif] STEP 7: If the leaves are yellowing at the veins but the tips are fine and are not curling or twisting, you have a manganese (Mn) problem. Manganese problems can be solved by adding more Mn to your plants. If the problem persists, necrosis will set in and the leaves may curl. Plants do not need manganese to grow to full maturity but a lack of Mn will result in less than average results.
Move on to Step 8 if your problem still persists.

STEP 8: If you still have not solved your problem then add a secondary and micronutrient formula to your soil.This should help solve problems like Ca, S, Cu, B, Zn, Mo deficiencies, which are hard to detect and their respective symptoms are often different from strain to strain. By mixing a secondary and micronutrient formula you should be able solve these problems.
If this still has not solved the problem then turn to Step 9.

STEP 9: Still haven't solved it? Then flush your soil, and find another type of plant food that has all of these: N, P, K, Ca, Mg and S. Purchase Epsom salts and get a small canister of micronutri-ents, such as iron, boron, chlorine, manganese, copper, zinc, and molybdenum.
If you don't want to flush your soil or transplant to another growing environment then proceed to Step 10.

STEP 10: Your plant may be experiencing nutrient lockout. There are a number of factors that can cause this problem. If you followed Step 9 properly then you shouldn't have this problem, but we'll explain it anyway. Lockout occurs when the plant cannot access a nutrient or a group of nutrients.This could be caused by the absence of nutrients (a deficiency) or by a chemical reaction in the medium/solution, which either causes a toxic substance to block the roots or a chemical reaction to take place, creating a new substance that changes the chemical properties of the other nutrients. As you can see this is a very broad subject matter. pH problems can lockout nutrients. The wrong soil type can also cause nutrient lockout. Under the right conditions, even water can lockout nutrients. But these lockout causes occur rarely, and more than likely something other than what the cannabis plant needs has been added to the solution to cause this reaction.
When in doubt, transplant into fresh soil or a fresh hydroponic solution. Certain feeding products might contain active ingredients that do not work well with cannabis. Lockout can only be solved by flushing or a transplant. With hydroponics you will have to change your nutrients. Out of date liquid feeding products can precipitate, causing nutrient lockout. Salt is another compound that can cause nutrient lockout. Follow Step 9 to solve these problems.
Your plant may be pot-bound or root-bound—it may simply have outgrown its pot. When the entire root mass grows to its maximum capacity, this can cause the plant stress and a variety of other problems that may resemble a nutrient problem. The only cure for this is to transplant the plant to a bigger pot.

NO CURE FOR BAD GENETICS
When all else fails, you may have to face the fact that you are dealing with "a bad seed." There is a lot of garbage in the market. Problems associated with bad genetics include mutations, warping, flowering problems and poor germination rates that will often cause nutrient symptoms to appear even though your nutrient problem doesn't exist. The only viable solution is to obtain new genetics — preferably from a different breeder. Make sure that you let the originator of the seeds know about your problem. Seed banks sometimes do pull a line from the market because of consistent problems like germination rates or weak, unpredictable genetics. The only way they can find out about such things is to get feedback from you the client.[/FONT]


[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]I hope this helps you[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]smoke in peace[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]KingKahuuna[/FONT]

 

[luke]

it will still flower properly give it bud booster

 

[SALTROCK]

Should always know the PH in your water that you are giving your plants. Have you not checked it?

Thanks
SALT

 

[the widowmaker]

No two ways about it, thats deficiency you got there bro, looks like its lacking heavily in nitrogen.

 

[1timer]

i have been thinking it was lacking N but was not sure and did not want to overdo anything.