Cannabis two week old seedling trouble, please help!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
mortaion said:
It isn't a real room, actually.
The 1.8sq ft can change to x sq ft when needed.
I know a lot of people that use a lot less lumens and light then me so I think the light won't be an issue.

12500 lumen for 3 plants is more then enough if theyre online staying till week 7 which is only five weeks to go :icon_smile:

Light is always an issue.
The amount of light is directly related to yield. My point though is that I doubt that you are not going to be able to keep 3 plants in 1.8 sq ft for 7 weeks without overcrowding them and causing them stress due to the overcrowded condition.
 
Think I will be buying a 400watt MH lamp.
hXXp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130895144786

What do you guy's think? Although 22000 lumen is low for a 400watt MH lamp, it's self balasted and cheap + more then enough for my three plants if I combine with current CFL 125w.
 
"THIS LAMP REQUIRES NO CONTROL GEAR TO OPERATE AS THE BALLAST, IGNITOR AND CAPACITOR ARE BUILT IN TO THE LAMP. TO USE SIMPLY SCREW IN TO AN E40 LAMP HOLDER, CONNECT TO AN AC 220-240V SUPPLY AND THE LAMP WILL GIVE OFF 400W OF HIGH POWER METAL HALIDE H.I.D LIGHTING."

I have never even heard of a self-ballasted light. I have a hard time believing that the components contained within the ballast can somehow be shrunk to fit inside the bulb itself. In addition the price is very low for a bulb that does not require a ballast. I would try and find someone who has used a bulb like this before I purchased one. I am thinking that the heat that will come off that is going to be horrible.
 
You know, I'm not sure but that almost looks like a scam to me. I assume that the ballast components are in the metal cup at the base of the bulb. For it to be that small, it would have to be micro components. To my knowledge there is no way that those components that are small enough to sit in htat metal cup are going to be able to handle the current that goes through there, and the level of heat generated by that bulb would be enough to kill those micro-components in a very short period of time. It may work but will not put out anywhere near the level of light that it says.

Mortaion, you need to get a light like this: hxxp://www.hpsgrowlightstore.com/hps1510/best-grow-light-systems/400-watt-grow-light-sets/ipower-grow-light-400w-hps-mh-dimmable-basic-wing-reflector-set.html

With this light you will have a reflector that will throw all of the light energy down to the plants, and you will already have the socket, wiring, ballast, and 2 bulbs. One bulb MH that will work in the fixture during vegging, and then a HPS bulb that will cover the plants during the flowering period with a different spectrum of light that is specifically for flowering. Both bulbs will work in the same fixture with the same ballast. :) You should be able to find a comperable unit like this on Ebay.
 
Look how big the base on even small wattage CFLs are. I am really not understanding how this light could work.
 
I've did some "research" and it looks like it isn't a scam:

"Self-ballasted lamps[edit]
As of 2012 several companies started to offer self-ballasted metal-halide lamps as a direct replacement for incandescent and self-ballasted mercury-vapor lamps. These lamps include an arc tube with a starting electrode as well as a tubular halogen lamp which is connected in series and used to regulate the current in the arc tube. A resistor provides the current limiting for the starting electrode. Like self-ballasted mercury-vapor lamps, self-ballasted metal-halide lamps are connected directly to mains power and do not require an external ballast. In contrast to the former, these lamps usually have a clear outer bulb without a coating, making the arc tube and the halogen lamp tube clearly visible from the outside."
Source: Wikipedia (although it's not always trustable)




But even a big brand like Philips offers 6x25watt self balasted metal halide lamps for only 50 dollar (37pounds+-):

http://1000bulbs.com/category/25-watt-self-ballasted-par38-metal-halide-lamps/


The cons are that the lifespan and lumens are about half lower than those with ballasts, an average 400w unbraned metal halide lasts only 6000hours and puts out 23000 lumen. We all know that for a 400w MH , 22000 lumen and a 6000hours life span is very bad but for it's price it's perfect, I think.
I am not a serious grower and I would throw the bulb away or put it in the garage somewhere after my growth. 22000 lumens would be a big improvement in comparance with the current 9000. And I will be able to use both, I also don't need a HPS light because I won't be flowering indoors.

I already have a reflector, conenctor, E40 socket for my CFL setup so I just have to unscrew and screw the MH back in, done! The CFL will be placed with an E40 hanger inbetween the three plants.
Do you guys still have the same opinion or did I changed it a little? :)
 
I forgot that you will be flowering outside. As I am understanding you, this will be just a 1 time grow for studying the chemistry of the medicinal properties of MJ? Then I understand that you don't want to spend much money on the better components for this grow. :)

One thing I did notice in the description of your light, you said that it has a Halogen bulb inside the glass outer tube. That would make sense for it being able to handle the heat as the Halogen element tubes don't get quite as hot. The problem however with Halogen is that the light spectrum is around the 4000-5000Kelvin range which is not the best for vegetative growth. You want 6000-7000Kelvin(or 400-450nanometers) light spectrum for best vegetative growth. You need to verify the light spectrum on these bulbs before buying one or you will just have a nice garage light rather than a proper grow light. If it doesn't have the right spectrum then you are better off with high quality cfl. :)
 
Just get a t-5 if using just to veg.
 
Here is the light that you need IF the spectrum is not right on the bulbs that you are looking at: hxxp://www.discount-hydro.com/hydrofarm-compact-fluorescent-bulbs/
This company has a location in the UK. I believe it is called "basement lighting.com". 1 or 2 of these would serve you well if you can get them.
 
There is a huge difference between 25W bulbs and 400W bulbs. And look at how large the 25W are compared to the 400W that you are looking at, which just looks like a normal bulb. However, even if they are what they are supposed to be (although I have a hard time believing a self ballasted 400W bulb can be that inexpensive), I am worried about you being able to control the heat, which is going to have to be horrible.

I would a lot rather see you get some T5 fluoros if you can.

Hush, you are talking about halogens--is he talking halide or halogen--there is a huge difference there, too. Halogens are no good for growing.
 
What if his research is us and not the plant?:confused2: :bolt:
 
Grower13 said:
What if his research is us and not the plant?:confused2: :bolt:

If that is what his research is about then his conclusion would be...Wow the government has been spreading propaganda and lies about Mj :icon_smile:
 
Hushpuppy said:
I forgot that you will be flowering outside. As I am understanding you, this will be just a 1 time grow for studying the chemistry of the medicinal properties of MJ? Then I understand that you don't want to spend much money on the better components for this grow. :)

One thing I did notice in the description of your light, you said that it has a Halogen bulb inside the glass outer tube. That would make sense for it being able to handle the heat as the Halogen element tubes don't get quite as hot. The problem however with Halogen is that the light spectrum is around the 4000-5000Kelvin range which is not the best for vegetative growth. You want 6000-7000Kelvin(or 400-450nanometers) light spectrum for best vegetative growth. You need to verify the light spectrum on these bulbs before buying one or you will just have a nice garage light rather than a proper grow light. If it doesn't have the right spectrum then you are better off with high quality cfl. :)

Emailed him, the light spectrum is 5000K
Which probably has a peak in the early 400nm's?
I think it isn't that bad, maybe I'll buy two and use a splitter. About the heat, do you guy's think it will be that bad? I am able to buy two new 6-7inch fans. I do know that "T5 lights" or other may be much more ideal but like Hush mentioned it's a one time growth. Only need very small amounts for analysis.
 
Buy a good T5 fixture, sell it after your grow is over for nearly the cost of new :confused2:

If you're experimenting for study, shouldn't you have at LEAST semi-optimal conditions? Or is trying to do this half way crooked part of the study? My point is.. if you spend money on a T5 fixture, e B a y or the list of Craig's will certainly get you nearly all your money back. Especially if you're only using this for one grow.

Just my thoughts. I mean, you seem quite mentally invested in this study, why not do this logically? :aok:
 
mortaion said:
Emailed him, the light spectrum is 5000K
Which probably has a peak in the early 400nm's?
I think it isn't that bad, maybe I'll buy two and use a splitter. About the heat, do you guy's think it will be that bad? I am able to buy two new 6-7inch fans. I do know that "T5 lights" or other may be much more ideal but like Hush mentioned it's a one time growth. Only need very small amounts for analysis.

Yes, I believe that the heat is going to be horrendous, however for 13 pounds you may want to try it. Regular MH get quite hot (hotter than HPS) and if this is self ballasted, there is going to be ballast heat along with the heat the bulb naturally puts out. Are you planning on buying a reflector?

What kind of 6-7 fans are you planning on getting? Just moving hot air around will do nothing to cool things. You need the ability to bring cooler air into your space and exhaust hot air out. Intakes can be passive, but you do need a good centrifuge type exhaust fan and a source for cool air.
 
UPDATE

It's hard to tell if the plants are doing okay if you aren't experienced so I let you guy's judge here are the pics.

As you can see it isn't going perfect, but I don't know wheter it's good or bad, you tell me! (Multiple opinions are appreciated!)

What are the brown mini spots in the middle of the leave? And does it matter that two new leafs are "weakening, slightly yellowing"?

xa.jpg


xz.jpg


xzz.jpg


xzzz.jpg
 
New growth looks good to me, and surely seems like they are bouncing back. :confused2:
 
The plant looks good. It is doing OK. Don't worry about the little bit of browning as the plant has suffered damage to both the leaves and the roots, and it will take time for these to heal (or be replaced). Those smaller leaves will eventually yellow and die once the plant gets bigger. As soon as its roots get back right and start feeding the plant good again, she will take off growing and will be nice and green.

Those little brown spots are most likely the remnants of nute burn damage that are showing up in random places. If, as the plant grows, you continue to see a pattern of brown spots, then we have another issue but I suspect that's not the case here.

Those lights are like the ones that I had shown accept that they are 5500K rather than 6500K. See if you can find the 6500K as that is the ideal spectrum of light. Its funny, Our eyes can't see it but the 5500K light has very much green in it, which is worthless light to a plant. It will make you plant look really green because the plants leaves will reflect the green light from the bulb rather than absorbing its photons. If you can't find any other bulbs in 6500K, the 5500K will work, just not as good. :)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top