Green's Nutrient Deficiency Pictures

The following was orginally posted at BreedBay by GreenSpirit

View attachment Nitrogen.jpg

View attachment Phosphorus.jpg

View attachment Potassium.jpg

View attachment Magnesium.jpg

View attachment Zinc-Manganese.jpg

View attachment Iron-Sulfur.jpg

View attachment ToxicSaltsBuildup.jpg

View attachment SaltBuildup-HormoneProblems.jpg



View attachment MagnesiumDef-2.gif

Top find Ozzy absolutely the best chart ive come across in over 15 years of searching/growing.
T4

Yep Yep..I think this one should go in the stickies Bro...In fact I may download it and print it off to put up in my lab.

Yes, this is very good.

Maybe right on time aswell. Pic A in toxic salt buildup looks a lot like one of my plant which I tought was having N def. And it was caused by high EC stock water which I unfortunately have now aswell. I have to have an other look.

Dear forum members,

I am a first time grower and I have 2 different sorts of plants in an outdoor setting in the Netherlands.
One of the plants has problems, the others look really healthy. It is an automatic (Northern Light) plant which I planted about 2 month's ago so has been flowering for the last month or so.
It all started with some of the fairly new leaves turning purple / black. It got worse when a big part of the top bud totally died and dried out.

I guess the pics say more then a thousand words. Hope anyone can help! The troubles started right after I switched pottery (bigger +/- 8 Litre, new soil) and I added some nutrients.

Thanks in advance.

I used, these auto flowering seeds, the others do very well, this one is in a somewhat different spot with less wind...

View attachment Northern Lights troubles middel.jpg

Hushpuppy said:

Yep Yep..I think this one should go in the stickies Bro...In fact I may download it and print it off to put up in my lab.

Click to expand...

Hi HP, or anybody? looking scary here.
Manganese? Iron?
both?

View attachment 101_0044.jpg

That could be early manganese deficiency/ iron def. But it also looks like a common problem when temps get too cold or it swings from too cold to warm. The colder temps cause the immobile elements to become unavailable.

If the temps are ok then the very next thing I would look at is pH as that causes most problems in gardening.

Hushpuppy said:

That could be early manganese deficiency/ iron def. But it also looks like a common problem when temps get too cold or it swings from too cold to warm. The colder temps cause the immobile elements to become unavailable.

If the temps are ok then the very next thing I would look at is pH as that causes most problems in gardening.

Click to expand...

Room temps are warm if anything, 79-80
but the rez is kept to 70
and in flower, maybe too chilly a rez overnight,
THANKS

They just look hungry to me, like for N, but i am not great at diagnosing, but if they were mine i would feed.

I'm guessing your at least a couple weeks into flower........You shouldn't be having a magnesium issue after 2 weeks into flower........... I add no Magnesium after the 2nd week of flower.........what are you feeding? and how did you change your feeding once flowering was started?......... looks like your suffering a lock out of some sort if your feeding them well......... could be ph related........ if your running synthetic nutes check the PH of your runoff.

I still say Nitrogen. Which could have to do with PH .

Excellent folks, thanks.
yes, week 3 ending
previous were grow nutes, now bloom nutes w calcium 2.0 - 0 - 0.2
label said 1100, I went for 450 (under LED)
*** I've been trying to keep pH at 6.0 by adding 1 - 2 mL pH down to the rez daily after a reading ***'

4 buckets, 2 affected, 2 not
they are different strains too

Emptied the rez, new batch sitting at 5.8 650 ppm

set the reservoir at about 5.6 or 5.7 and let it rise through the range to about 6.2........... I suggest you top off your res every day or 2....... build you an auto top off system...... I run one in my 25 gallon res........ I change out nutes every 2 weeks and almost never have to adjust ph.

Being under LED changes the formula on feeding. If your rez temps don't drop below 60f or above 75f(for extended periods of time) then its not an issue.

Nitrogen is a mobile element that would get pulled from the older and lower leaves to feed the new growth, I wouldn't think it would ever show that way on the plant. It is most likely a chemical imbalance. Just have to figure out what is causing it.

Exactly what are you feeding(not just amounts) and when up to this point on this grow?

Grower13 said:

set the reservoir at about 5.6 or 5.7 and let it rise through the range to about 6.2........... I suggest you top off your res every day or 2....... build you an auto top off system...... I run one in my 25 gallon res........ I change out nutes every 2 weeks and almost never have to adjust ph.

Click to expand...

Frustrating, I'm bang on those numbers
5.7, then use the ph down when it climbs above 6.0
seems about 1mL ph dn per day, half to a gallon per day top up

You stick a float in the tub and use another tub or a feed from the house?
I'm reading sitting water is bad and straight from the tap is fine.
So you never add nutes, just top up with water?

Hushpuppy said:

Being under LED changes the formula on feeding. If your rez temps don't drop below 60f or above 75f(for extended periods of time) then its not an issue.

Nitrogen is a mobile element that would get pulled from the older and lower leaves to feed the new growth, I wouldn't think it would ever show that way on the plant. It is most likely a chemical imbalance. Just have to figure out what is causing it.

Exactly what are you feeding(not just amounts) and when up to this point on this grow?

Click to expand...

I'd think nutes too but 4 of the 6 plants are fine. (2 in same solution, 2 by hand)
Same nutes i've used for years but could be a bad batch maybe

I can't think of what I've changed or done differently.
These are the last of my fem seeds, interestingly enough

I'm due for new nute purchase anyways.... suggestions?

It is very possible that those plants that are having issues are just genetically weak. Or it could be that they have damaged roots from something that you haven't seen. Those issues can drive you batty sometimes. I can't use sweet lime or Epsom salt in my coco coir grows or my pH goes completely berserk and I have to flush them to death to get them straight again. Don't know why it won't work but its just one of those things :confused2:

Hushpuppy said:

It is very possible that those plants that are having issues are just genetically weak. Or it could be that they have damaged roots from something that you haven't seen. Those issues can drive you batty sometimes. I can't use sweet lime or Epsom salt in my coco coir grows or my pH goes completely berserk and I have to flush them to death to get them straight again. Don't know why it won't work but its just one of those things :confused2:

Click to expand...

I also thought you were onto something with the temperatures but those are also the last of my feminized seeds and when you say genetically weak,
things start to gel but why would they be the biggest... I get all the weird problems.

sopappy said:

Frustrating, I'm bang on those numbers
5.7, then use the ph down when it climbs above 6.0
seems about 1mL ph dn per day, half to a gallon per day top up

You stick a float in the tub and use another tub or a feed from the house?
I'm reading sitting water is bad and straight from the tap is fine.
So you never add nutes, just top up with water?

Click to expand...

yes just top off with plain water....... I use a 55 gallon drum to with a 350 gph pump and 1/4 inch ice maker line to pump the water to my the float valve in my res....... I plug the pump into a timer set to top off a half hour after my 2 waters per day ..... I run the pump for about 20 mins....... a T loop will have to be use so water can be routed back to top off barrel when the float valve closes due to full nutrient res....... keeps you from burning up pump plants using the nutrients in the water causes the ph to rise......... when ph gets over 6.2 or 6.3 adjust it back down to 5.6 or 5.7.......... as the plants feed the ph will rise if you replace the water used by topping off the reservoir to the same water amount/level......... replacing the used water in the res is the only way to follow the nutrient use by your plants........ if your plants are depleting the nutrient levels in your water in 10 days or less........ you need a bigger res........ remember nutrients don't have to be in your res at maximum levels to properly feed plants in a hydroponic setup.

G13 was saying...
yes just top off with plain water....... I use a 55 gallon drum to with a 350 gph pump and 1/4 inch ice maker line to pump the water to my the float valve in my res....... I plug the pump into a timer set to top off a half hour after my 2 waters per day

======== 2 flood and drains per day, that's all?

..... I run the pump for about 20 mins.......

======== it takes 20 minutes for your table to fill, then pump shuts off and it drains back to that 55 gal drum in another 20 minutes so your roots are only submerged twice a day for 40 minutes?
I gather there is no space under the pots?
Maybe I'm overwatering in hydro (hahaha).
I have space under the pots so I leave the roots submergged about half the time (with bubblers) and it floods and drains every 2 hours !!!

======== I'm not getting this, how can you leave your roots hanging in air for 22 of 24 hours a day? don't they dry out?

a T loop will have to be use so water can be routed back to top off barrel when the float valve closes due to full nutrient res....... keeps you from burning up pump

======== whaaaaa? lost ya there but no matter, not there yet anyways

plants using the nutrients in the water causes the ph to rise......... when ph gets over 6.2 or 6.3 adjust it back down to 5.6 or 5.7..........

======== that's a big jump, I've been adding pH down with my top-up daily instead of waiting for 6.2

as the plants feed the ph will rise if you replace the water used by topping off the reservoir to the same water amount/level......... replacing the used water in the res is the only way to follow the nutrient use by your plants........

yes, you explained this to me once before, a eureka moment, I'm still working on a system to get my measuring accurate, but I think I understand what I'm doing

if your plants are depleting the nutrient levels in your water in 10 days or less........ you need a bigger res........ remember nutrients don't have to be in your res at maximum levels to properly feed plants in a hydroponic setup.

======== nope, I don't get that relationship at all but don't go busting yer chops trying to explain it, I read and re-read, sooner or later it'll gel